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TWIN-ENGINE
WARRIORS
History has always made us look at the air myths of World War II, on famous planes such as the Spitfire,
Mustang, the Japanese Zero and the feared German Bf-109. These were al single engine fighters. And
we actually forgot that the same or similar missions were carried out by twin engine fighters who just

In this beautiful issue of Aces High we pay tribute to those twin engine legends, who always seems
to be forgotten. Warbirds like the British Mosquito, The American B-25 Mitchell, or their lesser known

We must take advantage in the golden years we are living in, where new kits are released on a regular
basis with more diversity than ever before, that allows us to expand our collection. Therefore we of
Aces High will offer you a mix with classics, new kits and also the forgotten, lesser known models.
And by doing so, we hope that our work and that of our collaborators will help and inspire you for Daniel Zamarbide Suárez
your future projects.

Traslations Graphic & Layout Collaborators


Fernando Vallejo Daniel Zamarbide
AK Interactive Sara Carruesco AK Interactive
César González Rubio
Chief Editor Legal Deposit
Daniel Zamarbide LR-285-2014

contact@aceshighmagazine.com
ak-interactive.com

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 3


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1/72 Hasegawa

Fernan
do del
Pino

6 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


In the need for a medium bomber that could act as a torpedo bomber,
dive bomber and low-level horizontal bomber, the Imperial Japanese
Navy gave the necessary instructions for Yokosuka to start designing
an aircraft of that category. The prototype flew in August of 1943
and its benefits were considered as satisfactory. Unfortunately, the
P1Y suffered from maintenance problems that ended up harming his
operational career. Therefore, its entry into operational service was
delayed until early 1945. The production reached 1,098 units. If the
ground staff had had sufficient training, the Ginga (Milky Way) would
have become a formidable adversary for the allied interests in the Pa-
cific. There were developed versions for rapid bombing, night fighter,
reconnaissance aircraft and torpedo bomber, something that speaks of
the excellent aircraft design.
The Hasegawa kit ref. 51201 offers us a fairly faithful copy of the origi-
nal plane. Outstanding fits, a good overall detail in the cockpit and
landing gear wells, fine and great panel lines of adequate depth. With
few additions it is possible to make a good replica of the Ginga on the
small scale. The possibility of leaving the armament bay opened makes
possible to see the two 500 kg bombs. I added Eduard’s photoetched
parts to enrich the cabin, the landing gear, and the radar antennas.
By working with oils and pigments, I have tried to represent a unit very
punished by the daily use and with a heavy weathered paint. There
is no doubt that this is a model quite unknown to modelers, but it is
a must in the showcase of Japanese aviation lovers of World War II.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 7


1.

2. Once the riveting phase is finished, I usually give a


wash with some dark acrylic paint that can be easily

3. There is a set of Eduar


parts specific for this mod
the sides of the cabin, wh
glued with cyanoacrylate.
cyanoacrylate

4. A few photoetched ar
the original detail.

5. I start the painting. I u


“Nakajima Interior Green
Interactive, diluted with its
i specific thinner.

6. I finish the painting of t


other Vallejo references.

8 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


Prismacolor.

e of the airplane almost completely


led. Although when closing the cabin we
10
ht of parts of the structure, the glazed
t and nose make it possible that parts of
n still be seen in detail.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 9


11
12

13

14

15

10 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


16

Navy aircrafts.

17

18

chips that simulate the chipping so


characteristic in these airplanes.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 11


19 20 19.
excellent masks by Maketar, I
21 painted the Hinomarus. Is always
better painting the ensigns rather
than use decals.

20.

decals,

21.

annoying flange

Here it is the plane, ready


to be paneled. Always is 22
better to varnish first with
glossy varnish. This time I
used Future, applied with
airbrush.

As the upper surfaces are painted in a dark color, if I want to enhance When removing the excess of the enamel we can see that
the paneling and rivets, the best option is to choose a lighter color to the surface truns to a matt finish. This can be fixed passing
achieve this effect. I used the enamel color “Africa dust” by AK. Perhaps a cloth and if is necessary, insisting with a cotton bud
it is somewhat exaggerated, but then, with the rest of the treatments, it moistened in White Spirit.
will be more subtle. A lighter green or similar can be used too.

23

24

12 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


25

weathering treatments.

airbrushed a layer of Gunze matte black. I tried

dark tone oils we will simulate dirt and To start, I sprayed a layer of Aluminum of the that the black is something metallized by the
leaks of fluids. Xtreme Metal range. underlying aluminum.
26 27 28

30 31

29

29. Following the same technique described above, the 31. The exhausts are painted with Reddish Brown
chips are created, some larger, some smaller, around the by Vallejo. In the photos of the real plane it is
32 panel lines and the air intakes, and some random ones. observed that after an intense use, they acquire this
color.
30. With earthy pigments now I give different shades
to the original black to give more tonal variety. Do not 32. To finish, I apply pigments also on the exhausts
forget to fix the pigments at the end of the process. already painted, which gives it a fairly realistic rusted
Otherwise if not with the manipulation we can lose and rustiness appearance. The fumes are simulated
the pigments, or worse, leave unwanted stains. applying a grayish color over the black.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 13


33

For making the panel lines

Camouflage” Paneliner by
AK Interactive.

34 35

Let’s do some weathering. Start by moistening the surface with Next, I apply small stitches of oil colors, like the Naples Yellow,
Odorless Thinner by AK. where I want to apply some lights. It is important to use a fine
brush, given the scale of the aircraft.

14 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


36 37

Next I remove excess of oils with a flat brush moistened in diluyent, and A simple way to create more contrast is to use pigments diluted in
always following the direction of the air flow, from front to back. This thinner. Stitches here and there, let dry and melt the different tones.
process is simple, and both phases can be repeated until reach the degree Finally, as always, sealing with Pigment Fixer by AK.
of wear desired is reached.

38

remains to add some small details.

39

39.
photoetched parts, which must be

Some more small components

40

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 15


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1. The cutting is impressive, 435 pieces
which I completed with the photpetched sets
by Eduard with references 49747 and 48871.
On the picture you can see part of the model
ready to start the work with it.

2. I started painting the cockpit and some


parts of the engine nacelles, for which I
applied an even base coat, using the Real
Colors references that can be seen in the
image. The paint covers very well at the first
time, and both with an airbrush and with a
brush.

3. The model offers the possibility to leave an


engine completely visible, though I preferred
not to do it. Anyway, the manufacturer
forces us to assemble the rear butts which
although not beeing practically seen, are
necessary for the fitting of the engine
nacelles. I used the colors of the image to
give the base coat.

4. To paint the interiors, first I applied an


even layer of black matt, creating this way
a base that, when painting over it with light
colors the edges remain slightly shaded.
I painted the small details with a brush.

5. The bomb bay and the landing gear pits


from the Soviet aircrafts of the time were
painted with a primer called A-14, which had
a dark grey tone.

22 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


6. After varnishing with AK Glossy Varnish and let it dry,
I applied a wash woth AK Dark Brown, highlighting all 10. Once the base coat of the
the volumes and giving a use and dirt appearance to the seats was dry, I made some
engines. Once the wash was dry, I varnished it with AK Real zenithal lights with oils. I used
10
Colors Matt Varnish. the Light Gray Highlight by AK.
I applied small portions in the
7. The coolers need some photoetched parts. I painted a upper area of the cushions.
coat with AK Real Colors Matt Black and then I applied
with the tip of the finger a bit of AK True Metal Gun Metal. 11. Then, with a flat brush
slightly moistened in White
8. The result is very convincing as can be seen in the image. Spirit, I dragged the oils down
11 gently.
9. I finished applying Ocher Rust pigment by AK, this gives
a dusty appearance, very typical in these pieces.

12 13

convincing.
15

14

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 23


16

17 18

17. Subsequently, I applied a wash to all the joints with the Dark
Brown. To me, this product is an all-terrain, which has many uses.

18. After letting it dry for a moment, I removed the excess with
a cloth or with sticks lined in cotton for that purpose. I finished
applying Real Colors Matt Varnish. 19

19. The pieces of the landing gear wells, as well as the deposits
that are placed inside the bombs bay, received the same
treatment.

Once
again, I used
the Dark Wash to
enhance all the volumes
of the semi-fuselages. in
the image the effect can
be seen perfectly. 20

24 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


21 22

23 24

26

21-24. To finish the process of the interiors, I gave a coat of matt


varnish. In this image and in the following three can be appreciated
the realism these pieces have gained.

25. The structure of the landing gear is very detailed. Anyway, I made
some drills in them, since in reality they were really drilled. These
structures are painted with a Real Colors A-14 base for aviation, and
they have been given volume by painting the most prominent areas
with the base color rinsed with white. Then, they have a wash with
25 the Dark Wash and finally the chromed parts that represent the shock
absorbers are painted with the chrome paint extracted from a
marker from Molotow, which leaves a spectacular finish in this type of
pieces.

26. The cockpit had in its floor a window that allowed the pilot to see
the ground under his feet. I soiled this window, since it is an area that
although it was glazed, it was not susceptible of getting dirty. For this,
I used some pigments, mostly the Ocher Rust.
ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 25
28
27

27. The process to paint the wheels is quite Finally,


simple: I painted the hubcaps with the A-14 29 I applied a
color and the tires with a mixture of Black couple of thin layers
Matt and Black Rubber of Real Colors. This of Real Colors Matt
last mix was made intuitively, until matched Varnish. The finish of the
with the desired tone. Once dry, everything rubber stained by dust and
received a coat of satin varnish. dirt is quite convincing.

28. Once the satin varnish was dry, I applied


the Landing Dust Effect Gear as a wash, and
before it was completely dry, I applied small
amounts of a mixture of the two pigments
shown in the image. Then I removed the
excess using dry absorbent paper.

30

painted this color with a reference


by Hataka. For a greater tonal
richness, I made mixtures with this
color and the reference AII Blue, an
initial color. I also mixed some white
to lighten the paint for the mobile
31 surfaces, which were lined with
fabric, and I painted the flaps with a
blue, the Gunze H-323.

26 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


32

The camouflage of the upper surfaces consisted of three colors: the 33 I placed the transparent canopy that I had previously

result was satisfactory.

34

35

this aircraft had in particular.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 27


36

37 Now
it’s time for
the lines of the
panels, for the lower
part of the wings and
fuselage, I used the
Paneliner for Grey and
Blue Camouflage
(AK 2072).

38

28 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


suddenly.

39

40

40. The propellers had the usual treatment. For the blades, Xtreme Metal Alu
primer, then I painted in matt black and with some touches in grey. The bush
painted with Warm White by Real Colors, varnished in satin finish, washed w
and finally varnished with Real Colors Matt Varnish.

41. The bombs are the ones that the kit brings, improved with photoetched p
Eduard. The machine guns are resin parts from the Brassin range by Eduard. I a
Grey Primer to all these pieces, this base is perfect to homogenize different m
painting stage.

42. The guns received a base of Real Colors Matt Black and then I applied Da 41
pigment from AK (086). The rest of the colors are from Vallejo.

42 43

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 29


44 45

46 47

44. To finish the detailing, with oil Light Grey


Highlight (AK500), I applied small touches in the
middle of the caps of the registers, later with a
flat brush I extended the oil until obtaining the
48 desired weathering effect.

45. I did the same with the outside of the panels


susceptible to leaking fluids, applying Raw Umber
or Burnt Umber by Abteilung 502, the process is
the same as with the light grey oil.

46. These oils were melted with a flat brush,


dragging in the direction of the air flow, to give
the sensation of small losses and fluids leaks.

47. In the upper part the process is the same.

48. For the stains of the exhausts I used a much


diluted Real Colors Matt Black and over this color,
a medium grey still more diluted.

30 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 31
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Although the kit is brillant, I decided to add
some aftermarket pieces by Aires to replace the
bombs bay and the machine gun. I left an engine
opened, an Aires’ piece too; Ultracast wheels
and Master Model metal barrels enhance the
level of detail.

The cabin from Aires is


spectacular, very nice fitting
with the model. Something that
does not always happen.

I painted the instrument panel

primed with a matte black color

36 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


4. I applied pigments, oils and a wash over
the floor, I made shadows on the belts with

varnish.

7.

procedure as with the interior, here I gave a Dark


Brown Wash by AK over Real Color Glossy Varnish;
the surplus was removed with the help of a cotton
swab.
8

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 37


10

9. Once the engine is primed with Black Primer and AK


Microfiller, I varnished it with Real Color Glossy Varnish. I
added a mixture of Russian Earth, European Earth and Light
Dust pigments, spread with AK Odorless Thinner and once
dry, the excess is removed with a cotton swab.

10. I made scratches and chips with Tamiya Matt Aluminum,


and I painted the pipes with Tamiya Aluminum and Tamiya
Copper.

11. Finally, I made a wash with AK Wash for Engines.


Before the wash was dry, I added a little of pigment, to
simulate the dirt stuck on the oil.
11

12 13

38 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


14 15

14. The fittings are excellent but do not avoid to use putty in some
areas. The acrylic putty is very easy to use, it is applied and removed
with a cloth or cotton swab, then it can be sanded very smoothly,
leaving the joints invisible.

15. Once the kit is assembled, I sprayed AK Grey Primer diluted


50% with AK Acrylic Thinner, obtaining a very smooth surface,
ideal for painting.

16. I did a pre shading with Real Colors Black Matt very diluted,
50/50 being able to control the trace very well.

17. After painting, I gave a glossy finish in order to place the decals
and to protect the paint for the subsequent treatments such as oils,
or paneling.

18. I painted with Real Colors Black Matt in thin layers, then I add
lights with Black and Light Grey of K4, which I exaggerated a little
to avoid the effect to be covered by later treatments.

16
17 18

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 39


19 20

21 22

19. Even though I used the decals for the numbers, I


decided to paint some of the stencils.

20. Once the mask is placed I sprayed a base of Real


Colors White Matt.

21. With Tamiya Red I give the final color.

22. The result is excellent and I always prefer painting


than using decals. A coat of Real Colors Glossy Varnish
will protect the work.

23. Over the model varnished with Real Colors Glossy


Varnish I proceeded to mark the panel lines with a

23

24

40 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


Darkening the AK Panelliner

25 26

27 28

repeated.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 41


29 30

31 32

29. 31.

the wing.
Real Color Glossy Varnish.
These oil dots of Dust color must

Odourless Thinner.

33

and stabilizers

42 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


35
34

pigment.

36

37
stroke from the center outwards

38

pattern.
39

40

After softening the


effects, everything
Once dry I can remove the is protected with a
excess with a cloth leaving the layer of Real Colors
product only inside the tire Matt Varnish.
drawing.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 43


44 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS
ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 45
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1. Before beginning the construction of the model, I made the panel lines 4. After painting the engines, I insert them into the hoods of the
and rivets of the wings and fuselage. Quickboost brand and then, with pieces of Evergreen, I made the
movable cowl flaps of the engine.
2. I cut all flight surfaces and with two-component Milliput putty, I filled
the joint between the surface and the wing. 5. Once the engines were finished, I made some easels where I could
support them until they were installed, so as not to damage the movable
3. The resin engines are made by Verlinden. We also have more reference cowl flaps of the exhausts. I used the propeller from the kit itself.
for the same model but from other manufacturers. These have been
improved with copper wire to simulate the wiring of the cylinders. 6. Before starting to detail the interiors, I proceed to make a “dry fit
test”, especially with the engines and the resin nose.

48 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


After
extensively
studying a book
with the interiors of a
real B-25J, I detailed all the
interior of the model with
different pieces made of
scratch with brass, tin,
copper and pieces in
resin.

10

8. The post of the pilots is the most visible area once the fuselage is 10. The interiors have an olive green as base color, the inside of the areas
closed, and I used Verlinden figures duly modified to place them inside of the panels is lightened with a little yellowish green and the structures
the cockpit. are darkened with a dark green and thus give volume to the whole.
Whith various acrylic paints applied by brush, I painted the small details of
9. The interiors have an olive green as base color. The inside areas of the the sides of the interiors, applying aluminum in the bombs bay and black
panels are lightened with a little yellowish green and the structures are in the areas that are not visible.
darkened with a dark green to give volume.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 49


11

12

area.

50 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


13

14

13.

14.

using a scriber.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 51


15

16

17

18 19

15. Complete assembly of the model. 18. The small details are very important, and things such as leaving
opened one of the cab windows always bring even more realism to the
16. The detailing of the paneling and riveting… model once finished.

17. …as well as the moved flight control surfaces bring a lot of realism to 19. As always, before start the painting process, the first step is masking
the model. the transparent parts of the model and apply the color of the interiors of
the cockpit (Olive Green) as first coat.

52 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


20 21

22 23

24 25

20. Once I have the airplane prepared for the painting, the first thing is to 23. Mixing the neutral grey with different dark grey tones and white, I
apply a layer of grey primer. make contrast on the panels and on the access logs.

21. I continue now with the application of a silver color throughout the 24. I do the same with the Olive Drab, mixing this color with dark green,
model, above and below. sand color and yellowish green.

22. After first applying the lighter color, in this case the Neutral Grey in 25. I have marked all the lines of the panels with a black color.
the lower areas, I apply the Olive Drab in the upper areas.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 53


Finally,
to integrate all
the effects, I apply a
soft layer of Olive Drab 26
with a proportion of 20%
paint and 80% solvent
specific for this paint.

27 28

The Mitchell I had chosen has a huge nose-art in the prow, I mask the entire contour patiently and carefully.
for this, following the decal as a reference, with a pencil I
draw the outline.

54 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


29 30

31 32

33

29. With different successive masks I paint the mouth, the tongue and 32. ...I end the nose-art. It also can be reproduced using decals, but if
the eyes. we take into account the size and the shape of the nose, it would make it
very complicated, and painted the result is also spectacular.
30. With a very fine brush I finish off the small details like the joints
between the colors and the tooth of the mouth. 33. I apply a layer of glossy varnish throughout the model.

31. Finally, after drawing the head of the wolf with a medium grey…

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 55


34

35

56 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


36

34. Once the glossy varnish was dry, I put the decals of the brand ZOZT 36. The wheels are resin parts of the brand True Details, specific for this
DECALS. model by Monogram (before and after painting).

35. Some of the last details of the painting are making the trails of the 37. Exterior parts finished and ready for the final assembly of the model.
engine exhaust over the wings using sand color, and also the integration
of the decals according the finish of the model.

37

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 57


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Although there is a radio
equipment in the market
for this model, the piece
of the kit is so good that
makes unnecessary to
buy it.

1. I start with the fore bay of the cannons, which only requires
ing and painting, because the detail is very good, although
once it is finished it will be closed.

2. The front of the cockpit is made out of the box because


it has an amazing detailing and only has as an addition the
rnesses that the kit itself has in photoetched and the wiring
of the instrument panel on the back.

3. The rear cockpit, like the front, is out of the box. Painted
with the German Grey RLM66 and obtaining lights with
medium and neutral grey as well as with oils.

5. The upper part of the cockpit has the same effects as


the front and rear ones, but this is where I apply lights and
hadows with oils in light blue and sepia grey to enhance the
volumes.

6. The assembly of the rear cockpit is carried out without


problems with a perfect fit between its parts.

7. Once finished the mounting the rear cockpit, I adjust the


front one to check the composition of the fully assembled
cockpit.

62 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


10

11 12

The model offers the possibility of leaving the engine fairing


opened, but in my case, I liked so much the lines of the engines
nacelles that I choose to leave them closed. bushings as well as the hollowed exhausts of the same brand.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 63


13. Another detail to improve are the guns, in this case, I
made use of the Polish brand MASTER to replace the Mk.131.

14. And of course, I also replace the big barrel of 40mm of


the prow for the one by MASTER, whose improvement is
14 more than evident with respect to the one injected in plastic.

13

carried out without noticeable problems.

15

16 17

64 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


18 19

20 21

18. The next step is to make a pre-shadow with black, using the REAL COLOR RC001 all over the
panel lines (NOT on the rivets lines).
19.

20.

21.

22

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 65


23

26.

27. Now I move to the oils. But first, I soak the surface with White Spirit.

24 25

26 27

66 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


28 29

30 31

32

33

28. The first shadows or dirt are made with a Sepia color, in the lower 31. For a more worn and dirty look, I apply oils again, Buff color in this
areas of the panels of the engine nacelles and on their opening joints. case, to make some dust over the surface.

29. After about five minutes, with a flat brush moistened (not soaked) in 32. Finally with a silver watercolor pencil, I make the deepest chipping,
White Spirit, I blend the oil. especially on the edges of the panels and the lock latches of them.

30. For the lights effects, I use a bluish light grey color applied over the 33. Final aspect of the area after applying pencils and oils in the
upper areas of the volumes of the engine hood. “weathering” process.

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 67


34 35

34. Aspect of those same


techniques applied on the w
root.

35. A clarifying graphic exa 36


the left area with effects ma
only with watercolor pencils
the right area effects made w
watercolor pencils and the o

36. I seal all the processes a


so far applying several layer
glossy varnish and place the s
decals as stencils or emblem
the squadron.

37. I make now a dark wash a


over the lines of panels and r
of the model.

38. After about fifteen or twenty


tw
minutes, I remove the exces
the wash always following t
direction of the air over the w
from the front to the back.

37 38

68 / ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS


39

layer.

40

ACES HIGH MAGAZINE / TWIN-ENGINE WARRIORS / 69


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