Real Footwear Trends

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Future Concept Lab
Real Footwear Trends

Three paths for the future
of the European footwear industry
edited by Francesco Morace and Paolo Ferrarini

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Summary
Introduction by Francesco Morace 5

Methodological Note 9
The Snap Shoe 13
1
MindStyles Essential & Existential 14
Sixth & Sense 16
Aesthetic Trends Progressive Process 18
Artistic Articles 21
Consumption Trends Combo Consumption 24
Tailor Territory 27
Future Trend Super Material 31
2
The Bio Shoe 35
MindStyles Core & Care 36
Crucial & Correct 38
Aesthetic Trends Materic Matrix 40
Original Origin 43
Consumption Trends Narrative Nutrition 46
Ethic Ethnic 49
Future Trend Huge Interlace 53
3
The Active Shoe
MindStyles
Aesthetic Trends
Consumption Trends
Future Trend
Think & Touch
Sixth & Sense
Therapeutic Technology
Detournement Details
Experimental Expression
Fast Fascination
Massive Details
Conclusions by Francesco Morace

57
58
60
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79
Authors 83
Project funded by European Commission - 6 FP Priority IST - NMP
(Manufacturing, Products and Service Engineering 2010) Project N° 507378 CEC-Made-Shoe Project Partners 84
I
Introduction
The Future of Visual and Aesthetic Trends
by Francesco Morace, Future Concept Lab
The urgent need for a New Renaissance
We urgently need a new age of New Renaissance a constant need to experiment, to broaden the
to ensure that knowledge and experience come nature of human enquiry. It is an awareness of the
back to hold a crucial role in our daily experience need to restore a proper value to experience and
and to protect ourselves from the risk posed by has, in itself, a hint of experimental experience
obscurantism and ignorance. In this, the work by and tangible innovation. It requires a radical
Edgar Morin will serve us well. He advocated a reform in the way we «sell» our experiences and
distinction between rationality, or reason – through re-evaluation of insight.
being open to experimentation – and rational- While for many years producers had great difficulty
ization – which is often reduced to a little less reconciling beauty and functionality, for example,
than a paranoid system in which we are expected New Renaissance demands that we define and audit
to answer all questions. This view implies a not only tangible production process, but also those
completely inward looking approach to our daily which affect our senses. If we are to reinvigorate
life experience. our lives, we will need to first understand and then
Socrates was the first to take philosophy out of define new functions. In this way we will arrive to
the sky and out of the realm of gods, bringing it a new way to «illuminate» our reality through a
to the city and into private homes, forcing it to clear responsibility for planning. The merging of
become relevant to our lives. This founding father the more radical languages of the 60’s and the 70’s
of Western philosophy created a morality, which with modern holistic values, has allowed the current
is based not on wishes and desires, but on our horizon of Experimental Illuminism to define our
conscience reached by a process of rational thought. future ever more clearly, and in doing so, it has
Our ability to think, and therefore to plan, means transformed the happy musing of some 18th aris-
that we can take responsibility. Being responsible tocratic intellectuals into a shared collective vision
requires us to take cultured decisions, and taking that is capable of routing Obscurantism and igno-
responsibility for the choices that we make simply rance from this millennium.
means being free. And our humanity lies there, By overcoming innocent faith modernists and
in this freedom. We become enlightened managers illuminists’ innocent faith in progress, we can be
and planners of our own lives – enlightened by the author of our destiny, of our real aims. By
our reason. Rather than taking nourishment from overcoming the idea that history is a record of
the «logic» of advertising images, the New Renais- human improvement, we can start a proper value
sance is nourished by those things, which we have to the concept that men and women have an
already experimented in full. This is embodied by innate dignity, which has nothing to do with race
5
Introduction Introduction
or religion, but comes instead from their indi- HUGE INTERLACE

vidual uniqueness. In the last decade, the dynamics of «cultural polli-
The world of art, design and fashion is showing nation» have permeated the world of project and
great attention to these phenomena. The most the overall approach to the use and circulation of
advanced creative minds and artists are already products which present a very sophisticated aesthetic.
working on this direction, defining the aesthetic The ability to construct an original vision of the
trends of the next years as follows. design projects merges with the act of reviewing it
on the basis of people’s daily needs for having prod-
The CEC-Made-Shoe project concerning the future ucts highly personalized. «Cultural pollination»
of the shoe industry in Europe, has followed this has become a natural phenomenon in people’s life, MASSIVE DETAILS
approach, first of all with the definition of the guide crucial to the realization of one’s own style and Extreme femininity has been one of the most impor-
concepts of the Active Shoe, Bio Shoe and Snap EXTRA RULES identity. In this context, it is important to preserve tant drivers in the world of fashion in recent years.
Shoe. In this book we present the conceptual path This sensitivity emerges from the increasing need the «whole picture» of a project/product usage in In the accessory sector, for example, we have
and the research process, which starts with the to rescue some aesthetic rules that have been order to easily merge very different elements that witnessed the return of high heels, with tapered
Street Signals’ observation, with the definition of neglected for a long time and to play with them consumers have yet to assimilate. pointed shoes and tiny bags. Cosmetics and inte-
the Aesthetic Trends and the Consumption Trends: creatively. From the point of view of project rior decor have also been influenced by the return
this leads to the definition of the future trends that creation this trend is expressed through the search SUPER MATERIAL of this «feminine sensitivity», in which the great
we present here in a synthetic way. for new shapes, colors and experiences that high- The research carried out in the area of materials relevance that small details makes is the basis of a
light the great richness offered by regularity. After in recent years has revolutionized the aesthetic daily aesthetic practice. The attraction towards
HYPER MEMORABLE the randomness and the spontaneous surrealism fruition of objects. Today’s challenge is that of icons, ancient or contemporary symbols is a must
In the last few years the worlds of fashion and triggered by the world of the web and the click- applying innovative materials to new projects and for the young generations, who remove the ideo-
aesthetics have gone through a wide range of stream, there is an emergent desire for an orches- manufacturing processes. Considered as the decade logical or religious aspects. The attraction towards
historical revivals. Now that the infatuation with trated form of rigor and carefully planned contrasts. that focused exclusively on «image», the 80’s have a surprising and moving aesthetic is a consolidated
postmodernism is rapidly fading away, we are New rules and processes practices are now at the given a boost to a series of researches in the world phenomenon that continues to grow. The role of
heading towards a phase of revival of the most centre of the attention in the work of creative of aesthetics that is now proven to be very strategic new femininity has at this point been metabolized
consolidated processes, and not just of the icons people, from graphic design to the world of the and crucial to all sectors. From the point of view and accepted that from post-feminist claim becomes
of the past. The fruitful encounter between personal arts and fashion in general. of material experimentation, our inheritance of a daily pleasure, freed from specific moments (the
history, one’s own culture of origin and the emerging the patrimony of the 80’s is still actively contributing evening, celebrations, festivities) to become a true
needs of modernity, stimulate the creation and ULTRA GRAPHIC to the creation of new stimuli. and proper fun and carefree rite.
the reassessment of traditional products that are The immediate communication provided by bi-
capable of supporting the new dynamics of people’s dimensional graphics gives a fresh touch to the MICROMEGA LUXURY
everyday life. most classic aesthetics. This phenomenon well The world of luxury in recent years has lived
combines with the natural expressiveness of the various aesthetic cycles: from the formal to the
WONDER SIMPLIFICATION T-shirts and of the SMS, as well as with the very eccentric, from affectation to personal pleasure.
The emerging aesthetic trends propose some inter- direct message typical of affective (as we call them Today all these elements are free to exchange
esting reflections upon the concept of simplifica- «transitive») products. In this trend, Far-Eastern roles and to assume different values, cohabiting
tion. From the point of view of the consumer, the aesthetic tradition merges with the classic design in a mix, occasionally personal, occasionally
most appreciated experiences correspond to the of Northern Europe, with Pop Art and with the ironic, but always charged with innovation. The
most distinctive and intense. This advanced form graphic design techniques consolidated during etymology of the term «luxury» contains the idea
of essentiality has nothing to do with minimalism. the rise of digital technology. Within this very of exclusivity, excess, exhibition: not only in
It is instead a way in which to deepen the «purity» «graphic» context, the relationship between light having the best, but to show the wealth. Luxury
of the project, giving value to a form of aesthetic and dark becomes crucial. In many advanced in its «macro» dimension is therefore the infrac-
that is functional and that represents modernity. projects, for example, the source of light is visible tion of the limits set up by society and rationality.
One of the most complex and challenging goals of but it does not illuminate the space, it is present In this sense the forms of luxury, involve a multi-
today’s world is that of making life simpler without but it does not form any shadow or contrast, which tude of senses, and are frequently used as inspi-
loosing complexity. normally creates an ambience. ration for new forms of product.
6 7
Methodological Note
For its contribution to the CEC-Made-Shoe project, based on an analysis of mass media contents and
Future Concept Lab has chosen to focus on its core on the influence of opinion leaders on values,
researches and methodologies. In the last years, we styles and taste. Anything from music to litera-
have recognised and given importance to the idea ture, art, fashion and design constitute the vital
that working in the area of market research means basis of our investigation.
dealing with society as a whole, and that moni- The Labyrinth of the MindStyles is divided into
toring its signs of change is the starting point for 16 MindStyles, each of which contains recent
understanding consumer behaviour. In practice, examples (case histories and exploits) that illus-
doing societing rather than traditional marketing trate the concepts. Each MindStyle is made oper-
means being sensitive to the social dynamics and ative by strategic concepts: the 65 concepts are
- in order to tackle this delicate task - we employ described by 10 key points, able to point what the
a combination of research methods that include concept refers to. The concepts are the strategic
desk research, qualitative and quantitative research, tools, platforms for projects that suggest how to
observation in the street, analysis of socio-dynamic deal with the markets and with the people’s needs
forces and a consistent media analysis related to and desires. Each shoe concept described by the
specific areas of interest (e.g. food, fashion, design, CEC-Made-Shoe brief has been inserted in the
etc) and specific areas of the world. Labyrinth of the MindStyles. After the compar-
What specifically characterises this research for ison between these original concepts, FCL team
the CEC-Made-Shoe project, is the opportunity focused on the individuation of the key Mind-
to combine different research programs, merging Styles that could integrate them and make them
different types of insights that integrate a well-focus closer to the needs and expectations of the markets.
object of investigation (e.g. obtained with quali- After choosing the relevant MindStyles, the second
tative research) with a wider social scenario connected step has been the individuation of the more signif-
to the sector of interest. icant strategic concepts, which can make the
Advanced research needs to intersect all these projects more defined and operative.
methodologies in order to provide a wider frame- The third step has been the link with the most rele-
work on which it is possible not only think about vant global aesthetic trends, emerging from the
the immediate market but also plan its future venues. observation and qualitative evaluation of the most
For the first part of the CEC-Made-Shoe project, significant projects in art, design, fashion, graphics
we focused in particular on the MindStyles Program. and other visual creative fields. The final passage
This program is the result of a consistent and was the identification of operative directions, which
permanent monitoring of the cultural influences are strategic paths necessary to relate with the defi-
related to the collective imagination and it is nition of significant products for the market.
9
Methodological Note Methodological Note
Relevant Strategic Aesthetic Consumption

MindStyle Concepts Trends Trends
Essential Life Progressive Combo

& Existential Simplification Process Consumption
The Snap Shoe The Snap Shoe
Sixth Material Artistic Territory
& Sense Hyperception Articles Tailor
Core Core Materic Narrative

& Care Health Matrix Nutrition
The Bio Shoe The Bio Shoe
Crucial Positive Original Ethic
& Correct Technology Origin Ethnic
Think Hyper- Therapeutic Experimental

& Touch Being Technology Expression
The Active Shoe The Active Shoe
Sixth Perceptiv- Detournement Fast
& Sense Insight Details Fascination
10 11
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1
The Snap Shoe
What is a Snap Shoe

Stockholm
The future competitiveness of the European shoe last) in order to make a fashionable product around
industry requires rethinking footwear product the foot: the shoe. In this, various production
construction from scratch in order to create new stages and various manufacturers are involved
components and novel shoe assembling processes. leading to complex production arrangements,
This will result in ideas to make shoes based on transport, intermediate components (lasts) etc.
advanced forming of materials, welding instead
of stitching (no seams no bonding), rethinking The scope of this sub task is to develop a product
of the «last» tool. concept based on radically transforming this
process, avoiding transport, complex logistics,
The seamless shoe concept is a basic question in long lead times, components like lasts, stiffeners
footwear and it implies a complete breakthrough and similar and radically transforming shoes into
in the actual manufacturing process: do we really foot wear. It gives a visionary image of foot-wear
have to stitch or bond components? Novel and (elementary called: wear for feet) and a whole
alternative structural product constructions as new production process. The goal is to directly
well as new processes and new technologies should manufacture the shoe in the correct shape, without
be applied to implement this new concept. needing to form it around a last. The shape of the
shoe is built in CAD around a virtual last and
This sub task, in redefining the product, will set with use of new production techniques directly
the specifications for the corresponding manu- created in a multi material combination in the
facturing processes, defining in particular mate- correct shape. Such an approach implies a radical
rial specifications and technological concepts for change in the actual industrial manufacturing
a shoe assembly that does not require stitching or process to increase competitiveness by reducing
bonding. This will bring as breakthrough inno- production batch size.
vation the elimination of time consuming and
no-added value stitch and bonding preparation
operations. Basically shoe production today consists
of bringing elements (components) of various [Text taken from the Description of Work of the CEC-Made-
materials together around a physical shape (the Shoe Project]
13
1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE
Strategic Concept
Life Simplification
The MindStyles
Simplifying is the attempt to strip one’s existence of everything regarded as superfluous, in one’s
Essential & Existential
1 search for inner growth.
Simplifying means possessing the techniques, the taste and the art of existence and the knowl-
2 edge to recognise the useless and superfluous aspects.
The people’s quest for existential simplicity and has always advocated and produced great exam-
3
If used as a spiritual discipline, simplification makes it possible to define and achieve one’s objec-
authenticity in terms of individual and collec- ples of existential thought), to the current North
tive experiences, has left a deep and indelible and North-Eastern culture is due to the present tives more clearly, following linear paths.
mark on recent human history, playing a crucial state of hybridization with the «essential realm»,
role in a variety of civil, philosophical, aesthetic with its profoundly oriental matrix, which assumes
4
and post-materialist contexts. Nevertheless, one an importance equal to that of the «existential A number of principles guide the choices for simplifying everyday life, and these include the
has certainly been able to observe that the short- dimension», more typically associated with the search for essentiality.
circuit between that which is considered essen- Northern European area.
tial and the dynamics of profound thought regarding
the meaning of existence: this has led to the
creation of a new third-millennium existentialism
based on a conscious, deliberate sort of simplicity
that is capable of manifesting itself through thou-
5 The tendency is confirmed to eliminate waste, in both individual and collective terms: the ecolog-
ical disciplines provide people with new stimuli.
sands of different voices and expressions. Over

the last three years we has witnessed the further
consolidation and definition of this phenom-
enon. The quest for an existential dimension in
6 Luxury is simplified from a point of view that is not solely aesthetic and formal, but based on
values as well.
which one’s most profound authenticity can be

adequately manifested and translated represents
the common denominator of the Essential & Exis-
tential MindStyle.
The most innovative characteristic of the area is
7 The simplification of the languages is a factor of modernity: information technology can consti-
tute a valid aid from this point of view.
represented by the new relationship between

theory and practice. The new values are not simply
the fruit of an act of thought processing that trans-
lates into practice, but rather the result of a dynamic
8 People increasingly look for the quality of the experience based on a desire for concentration and
«time enjoyment».
whereby thought is actually nourished by concrete

reality, by real life. The exchange between these
two extremes proves to be very productive. Indeed,
these two realms are intrinsically correlated, gener-
9 People are refining their selective skills for the purpose of restoring the archetypal and natural
dimension to everyday life.
10
ating whole new mental and behavioural cate-
Some traditional rituals are redeemed, because of the deep significance that they hold (for example:
gories in an ongoing process of osmotic exchange.
The shift of the area from a Northern culture (that planning within the home environment).
14 15
Strategic Concept
Material Hyperception
The MindStyles
Reemergence of the body, its physical presence, its biological codes and its expressions.
1
*
Sixth & Sense
A body that enhances, elaborates, metabolizes, transforms and restores vital experience.
2 Kinaesthetic experience as a point of departure, a primordial basis from which to explore, estab-
lish contact, discover and comprehend (Latin: «seize» or «lay hold of»).
The evocative and emotional traits of the Sixth
& Sense area will continue to constitute one of
the essential references for individual and collec-
tive existence into the near future.
Indeed, the evolution of that which operates on
3 The shift from perceiving the body as an «object» of study and experimentation to a «subject»
of direct experience.
a deeper level - corporeal, sensorial, emotive and

mental - is increasingly influencing many fields
of human experience, from the creative area to
the experimental technologies, from the world
4 The gradual shift from more epidermic perceptive stimuli (diffused sensorial dimension with
candles, fragrances, images, sounds, atmospheres and various stimulations) to a growing immer-
sion in the total sensuality and sensitivity of the corporeal experience.
of consumption to that of the arts.
Any attempt to analyze the «signs» of the mani-
fold dimensions of experience must be chan-
nelled through the visionary capacity to interpret
5 Re-appropriating the experience of the body, in its entirety and organic dimension, as a point of
departure, access and connection with other levels: emotional, intellectual, spiritual. A phenom-
a new awareness of the body, the centrality of
relations, the interaction with organic life, the
relationship with space and the city and common
everyday «acts».
6 enon encountered in the Arts, Science and field of Communication.
Growing changes in the areas of Consumption, Communication and Distribution: the objects
7 are coming into contact with the corporeal experience and individual kinaesthetic, in an attempt
to restore autonomy, importance and integrity to personal experience.
8 Mature awareness of the sensorial experience in one’s relationship with the matter that influ-
ences the construction of space: from the domestic dimension to social venues and the connec-
tive urban fabric.
9 The revaluation of an irreducible physicality and a sensual, organic relationship with reality.
* The Sixth & Sense MindStyle has been considered relevant for both the Snap Shoe and the Active Shoe, even if the Strategic
Concepts are different and mark their role in different directions. 10 The body as a part of reality, whether it be a human body, the body of a space/structure/building,
the body of the emotions, the corporeality of a relationship or the body of an object.
16 17
Frankfurt
Aesthetic Trend
Progressive Process
Underlining the generative creativity of progres-

sive processes, production becomes gradually an
of the brand, not only a way to guarantee the quality
of the product. The creative minds are considering
Beijing
aesthetic process, and the rigid separation between teamwork as a fundamental element that contributes
industry and handicraft progressively looses its to the market value of the product: the creative
meaning. The aesthetic dimension is acknowl- result in fact is more the sum of different comple-
edging the aesthetic processes in terms of produc- mentary steps than the product of a single person,
tion, materials and economic factors that preside and has to be finalised through a common purpose
the industrial work, while at the same time fighting in order to be maximised.
against homologation, as happens in many Coun-
tries with projects that involve whole communi-
ties in the creative production. For this reason
working on the thin line that divides talent from
genius is a key issue. Applied creativity has to face
either designer’s ability and technical competence,
thus producing brilliant innovation in production.
1
Focusing one’s own energy on observing the brain Consider the production process as the starting
and the hands and their know-how, distancing point for aesthetics.
oneself from the myth of the machine that has to
be basically considered a mere operational tool, in
order to maximise its creativity and innovative
vocation. Producers and designers have to re-think
productive processes through their gradual tech-
nical and aesthetic unravelling, thus establishing
a corner stone for the new aesthetics in which func-
tion and form deeply intertwine and create a virtuous
circle that feed innovative visions. Applying the
2
Progressive Process is a new way of thinking in
order to define the extension lines of brands, as for Allow objects and ideas to grow structurally
example Bisazza Ceramics already did with the without standardizing.
launch of its jewels collection.
Using the whole productive process in the various
phases of business, even on communication and
selling, is a mean to express the creative tension
18 19
Cannes
Aesthetic Trend
Artistic Articles
London Today it’s important to focus on the widespread

experience of an emerging class with a high
of model making and educational publications.
Using the artistic feeling to enhance the value
creative and cultural sensibility. They manifest of everyday life, thus creating a happy experi-
a growing request for products and experiences ence that combines ethic and aesthetic, declares
marked as «artistic articles» that embellish the the end of the avant-gardes and expands the
everyday life. artistic thought in order to rediscover hidden
Considering the «article» as a product that affinities and lost similarities between things.
completes the experience, reconciling it with Working on the personalisation of the series,
the values of radical modernity that was firstly thus breaking the taboo of perfection. However,
introduced by the artistic avant-garde of the 20th functional quality of objects will be anyway a
Century, following the example of Marcel fundamental element in order to mark the success
Duchamps’ ready made. Emma Jeffs’ Digital Lace of limited series and unique objects. Connecting
is also a good contemporary example. art and life through «artistic icons» that acquire
Freeing industrial objects from the diktat of an active role within the everyday practice. The
3
anonymous equality by entering them on the real «charismatic objects» seem therefore to be
Use a «layering thinking» for product aesthetics. free territory of similarities. Thus the series the most common objects of the daily life.
becomes unique and the unique faces the neces-
sity to be part of a group or series, like in the
restored objects of 5.5 designers. This can be a
leading concept for the Snap Shoe.
Looking at the aesthetics of Artistic Articles as
an experimental vital space able to enhance the
combinatory needs of customers, seeking for
unique emotions and sensations as well. Even
the world of technology has opened up to this
experimental way, as shown in thousands of acces-
4
sories for the iPod.
Make visible the origins of the process when Proposing an educational aesthetic able to trans-
original. form ordinary know-how in something extraor-
dinary is necessary for the Snap Shoe. Technical
abilities and manual work allow at the same time
to reproduce objects and to exert imagination and
critical thought, as demonstrated by the success
20 21
Frankfurt London
London London
1 3
Projecting and producing objects that represent Relying on surprise and irony to create products
an aesthetic punctuation of experience. with a strong character.
2 4
Thinking on which daily rituals and occasions Introducing an artistic touch in products that
could be represented by aesthetics. mark the banal character of the everyday life.
22 23
Milan
Consumption Trend
Combo Consumption
Our perception has strongly changed in the last

years: surfing the Internet and using «copy and
culture. The fashion objects (and their packaging)
can become collections of stories, as it happens
New York
paste» when writing and researching, means using in the Adidas Adicolor series.
the brain in a flexible and plastic manner, and Many sectors in the world of project and the expres-
expressing a spontaneous and reversible attitude sive languages are fed by this creative energy,
on one’s own choices. Through the endless possi- changing the rules and giving to the customer
bilities of combination it is possible to capture some wonder and surprise. From technology to cosmetics,
of the various facets of reality. There is a cognitive from fashion to retail, the experience of the unex-
evolution on the basis of this trend: the scenarios pected lightens the everyday life with a sort of
regarding consumption options can be in fact adrenalin recharge.
perceived, understood and absorbed by all the
consumers with a new awareness, that by this time
corresponds to a metabolism of choices in which
the active decision goes beyond the passive influ-
ences. Adapting marketing in this perspective
1
means skipping definitely the possibility of segmenting Put clients into the position to elaborate articu-
the marketing a traditional way, leaving instead lated forms of casual combinations following the
space to the combinatorial commutation, that has logic of serendipity.
during the past years for instance characterized the
world of music remix.
It regards a new form of personalization that uses
space-time jumps, mental flexibility and creative
dynamic in order to give origin to a truly new way
of thinking and handling one’s own choices, also
in consumption. This is true in particular for the
young generations, the so-called digital natives, who
2
were born when the digital world already appeared
to be a stronger than the written word. Define elements with an autonomous character
In the last years we are also witnessing the great that can play a combinatory role.
diffusion of the documentary movies, the collec-
tions of books, the comeback of stickers, the
interest for TV series about history and religion.
We are going back to a serial and encyclopaedic
24 25
Milan
Consumption Trend
Tailor Territory
São Paulo The GPS navigator proposes a more appropriate

quality to introduce the Tailor Territory trend, that
not necessarily original, founded on flexibility and
maximum availability.
defines the direction for luxury consumption, within The land and its original excellencies return to the
which one wishes to take profit of the more precious centre of interest and constitute a dimension of
products that the territory can offer, but adapted consumption always more qualified: organic consump-
and perfected by specific individual needs. In tion becomes an area of excellence, from the hippy
substance, a «made to measure» of the highest level mythology of the commune and direct agricultural
in both value and mode of fruition. In the collec- production, to micro production of doc personal
tive imaginary the need of experience is basically products. And so is born a new elite of consump-
based on exclusive quality spreads, proposing for tion, that places at the centre of its interests organic
example the wine culture and the exploration of products, agricultural tourism, personalised and
the territory as an attractor in the art of good living. qualified service.
The winning elements of a «made to measure terri-
tory» can give its fruits if companies demonstrate
great attention and sensibility to these themes. The
3
Play on the multiplicity of the same product’s service and allure of high quality tailors becomes
options, starting from a unique base, followed by the emblem of the Tailor Territory phenomenon
«vertical» combinations. that is today demonstrating its strength in the
worlds of accessories throughout the world, also in
the world of sneakers.
The ad-hoc typicality and the contact with the
land but overall traditions and origins, happens
through the consumers’ personal tastes, which brush
the originality or the memorable experience (as
the recovery of personal memory). The extreme
customisation and personalisation take place on
4
the «personal quality and need».
Take into careful consideration the «contiguous Within the new personalization of excellence,
phenomena» that are emerging in other sectors, exclusivity represents the new quality. The return
favouring horizontal combinations that can lead of the hand made and the model of tailoring and
to consolidated partnerships. desire for tailors of times past, that «please you,
and do things the way you want done»: an excel-
lence of service and so a discrete quality, not boasting,
26 27
New York New York
Cannes Cannes
1 3
Develop, rediscover or support the forms of Elaborate and follow a new knowledge of excel-
«culture» that come from the territory of birth lence, that reunite cultural refinement and authentic
or production. processes.
2 4
Offer «made to measure» products that demon- Decline the component of passion and personal
strate the art of choice and life: the company and whim, with the competence and the variety of a
the client come to an agreement connected to the new artistic handicraft.
quality of life.
28 29
Final Keywords The future of the Snap Shoe

Super Material
The research carried out in the area of materials a series of research studies in the world of aesthetics
in recent years has revolutionised the aesthetic that is now proven to be very strategic and crucial
fruition of objects. Today’s challenge is that of to all sectors. From the point of view of material
applying innovative materials to new projects and experimentation, our inheritance of the patrimony
Tailoring manufacturing processes. We have been witnessing of the 80’s is still actively contributing to the creation
the emergence of a new priority in which the final of new stimuli.
product is not the result of the process but a tool
Speed through which it is possible to get to know new
materials and textures. New York’s famous Gagosian
Artistic Touch Gallery has dedicated an exhibition to the Australian
designer Marc Newson. For this occasion, Newson
has reinterpreted his historical pieces through the
Friendliness relevance of the raw materials, bringing the world
of industrial design closer to that of artistic exper-
Sensorial Perception imentation.
From the more consolidated artisan traditions up
to the most alternative «man made» experiments,
Quick and Qualitative the unique property of a material becomes the
absolute protagonist of a truly new aesthetic expres-
Life Simplification sion. They look like living elements capable of
expressing their identity through the surface (hence
through the sensorial dimension) as well as through
their substance (functional performance).
The Israeli company Animi Causa, designs and
manufactures objects for the home and the office
giving privilege to eccentric materials like eco-
compatible foams, metals and elastic laces char-
acterised by an innovative performance. Thanks
to a system of 120 integrated spheres, Feel is a new
experience of sitting that allows one to change
positions and «sensations».
Considered as the decade that focused exclusively
on «image», the 80’s have in fact given a boost to
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New York Stockholm
1 3
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2
The Bio Shoe
What is the Bio Shoe
Scope of this task is the development of a completely a smart and active way the wearer’s foot health.
New York
biodegradable shoe to meet the expectations of To achieve this objective different fundamental
environmentally concerned customers and enabling research areas will be developed where radical
a green manufacturing approach towards a null innovations will be achieved.
residue industry. The BioShoe design will be based
on biodegradable materials (construction mate-
rials and adhesives) and environmentally friendly
manufacturing technologies and procedures.
The objective of this task is to define the new

product design, assembling and manufacturing
methods appropriate for biodegradable materials
and adhesives. The specific chemical and phys-
ical properties of biodegradable materials require
new solutions in terms of design (to assure mechan-
ical performance) and manufacturing techniques.
There is limited current use of biodegradable mate-
rials in shoe uppers and components.
Specialists in polymer chemistry, polymer processing

and shoe manufacturing will be involved; the chal-
lenge will be to develop a fashionable design solu-
tion with materials that have lower mechanical
performance (than traditional synthetic ones).
This task is aimed at transforming footwear from
a static and passive element to a dynamic and
active device capable of adapting to the user and [Text taken from the Description of Work of the CEC-Made-
to environmental conditions and of protecting in Shoe Project]
35
2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE
Strategic Concept
Core Health
The MindStyles
Health and the body are confirmed as being important experiences for everyone.
Core & Care
1 An idea of health has formed that outlines a new approach to the body, which is no longer regarded
only as a biological organism, but also as a synthesis of matter and energy.
2 Caring means taking care of every individual, respecting the delicate balance of all his or her
The psychological need for care (taking care of
3
organic parts, viewed as the pieces of a complex puzzle.
yourself, other people and the environment that
surrounds us) and the need to seek and estab-
lish new harmonies in our relationship with the Much fruitful experimentation is taking place: sections of official Medicine are becoming recep-
world, are concerns that dominate and will
4
continue to dominate collective and individual tive to new healing practices, introducing them alongside those of Western tradition.
life for many years.
In order to avoid the risk of a profound fracture
The more advanced societies are living the paradox of the illusion of immortality: the excessive
and in order to recharge one’s individual personal
experience with precious vital energy, a whole
new strategy of balances is required, an approach
that involves the most delicate dynamics of exis-
tence: the mind-body relationship, the nature-
5 attention paid to health clashes with the individual’s physical limits.
Looking after your health becomes a daily, personal health programme: in this way people develop
culture dynamic, the space-time coordinates and,
in recent years, the real-virtual dialectic, with a
careful eye focused on the core of experience.
Managing these various levels of experience means
6 a new medical and dietary awareness.
The Companies that offer themselves as partners in this process of growth and awareness (e.g.
that people are focusing with increasing clarity
their centre of gravity on the effort to achieve
fuller self-awareness. 7 the presence of biological products on the shelves of the mass market retail outlets) are rewarded.
People’s curiosity and trust vis-à-vis new forms of unconventional medicine (ayurvedic, home-
8 opathy, etc.) are driving factors in achieving a balanced doctor-patient relationship.
Individuals are developing a strong desire to probe the themes associated with health: informa-
9 tion technology proves to be a valid support in establishing new doctor-patient relations, based
on trust, transparency and interaction.
10 Exchange with the traditional culture of the East fosters deep thinking on existential themes,
which also involve the physical dimension of individuals.
36 37
Strategic Concept
Positive Technology
The MindStyles
There is now a generally gained awareness that the planet’s primary resources are not endless.
Crucial & Correct
1 The problems relating to the future now need to be addressed and ideas for developing alter-
native sources of energy need to be studied.
2 The emergency situation affecting commodities of primary importance imposes a more aware
The scenario of the Crucial & Correct MindStyle distribution of consumption.
presents a complex and ever more relevant situ-
ation as far as the private, social and corporate
spheres are concerned. The first evident fact
relates to the corporate world and to the new
3 More and more prominence needs to be given to the cultural and commercial initiatives that
circulate information about our basic resources.
parameters that this must give itself in global
terms. Market complexity and compliance with
new rules become the drivers of the economy of
the future, in the same way that communication
4 The global political responsibilities in sharing out the essential resources impose themselves
on the attention of the global public opinion.
and management processes will have to abide
more rigorously with ethical principles that are
becoming increasingly more common and widely
shared, not just in terms of communication.
5 The situations of environmental emergency - which have exploded in Western Countries too
- is now, for the first time, strongly sensitising public opinion.
It is a trend that, although it came into being
«from below», is quickly establishing itself in
every aspect of our lives and that touches on the
crucial theme of the planet’s resources, which
6 The consumer world is being transformed as regards the issue of the so-called crucial resources,
bringing into play as well civilised society and the actions of the individual «world citizens».
for the first time were a recent subject of debate
after the blackouts in Italy and in the United
States. It is now priority to re-think a world in
which the world’s resources can no longer be
regarded as unlimited and in which fair distrib-
7 The global economy that governs the processes of commercial exchange is closely linked to
the political processes and to the future of the planet.
ution becomes the only way to avoid conflict.
Some of the problems can be solved by the tech-
nologies, although their increased use implies
other more everyday problems connected with
8 The division and inequality between the North and South of the world in terms of consump-
tion are the ever-closer premise of an environmental and financial collapse of a size that has
the respect for privacy and with the dissemina-
tion of information. There is a strongly emerging
dichotomy between the speed of technological
development and the slowness of regulation that
9 never been seen before.
The needs linked to the western world’s consumption, compared to the disadvantaged Coun-
10
even requires new ethical visions, in order to
create and propose new values. tries, represent a crucial factor in the management of resources, which does not imply great
sacrifices but imposes the promotion of a culture against waste.
38 39
Shanghai
Aesthetic Trend
Materic Matrix
Today it’s necessary to re-define the modern sense

of matter, its consistency and its tangible aspects,
London
thus acknowledging to the «materic» structure of
objects a specific energetic dimension, which consti-
tutes its peculiarity. The most advanced creative
minds are working on the very same vital charac-
teristics of matter, which metabolism possess specific
rules that follows a «materic» biological matrix
transferring punctual qualities. Today this trend
involves the deep structure of the material world
and is represented for example by the most advanced
projects of urban recycling. Producers should stim-
ulate the visions and perspectives of designers
through the specific characteristics of any single
material, thus challenging the aesthetic thresholds
1
that matter could enhance. In this way the artifi- Using the matter as a laboratory for formal
cial is provided with a soul, working on the qual- inspiration.
ities of materials and on the environmental care,
thus constituting a point of reference for the most
advanced recycling projects. Experimenting and
enhancing the combinatory qualities of matter, will
give birth to «incredible» aesthetics. The seek for
«new cults» will be able to represent the extraor-
dinary on the domain of a new material form, as
happened with the Breil extension line on metal
jewels, which aim was to challenge the passage
2
from technical products towards fashion. In most
of its projects, the Italian product designer Gaetano Arguing a biological vision of materials and their
Pesce explores materials through their symbols, appliances.
allowing them to express themselves in an innov-
ative way, through the overwhelming character of
volumes, forms, textures and colours.
40 41
New York
Aesthetic Trend
Original Origin
Milan Carefully consider the original meaning paying

particular attention to its authentic origin and
packaging, reflecting on the necessity for expressing
this originality through the package, as it is happening
therefore to its very distinctiveness: today the for lots of culinary quality products (e.g. good quality
added value resides in the originality of the origin. food now proposing transparent packaging). Elab-
For example, Driade has pushed different designers orate more or less direct forms of communication
to work of the value of the product origins. in order to emphasise or simply tell the origins and
Underline that today the sense of continuity and the stories related to Companies, to the Countries
of the origins is very strong and supported by the of origin and their products.
presence of some brands characterised by the
quality of their product origins: this has to be a
drive for the Bio Shoe. Discontinuity and diver-
sity emerge every day from a plurality of the origins,
that propose a radical aesthetic which grows
throughout time multiplying itself according to
3
the parameters of complexity.
Experimenting with the materic surfaces of objects Today’s most advanced projects absorb and
instead of their forms only. metabolise the aesthetics related to ethnicity and
cultural diversity, giving life to an aesthetic char-
acterised by the Original Origins which includes
regeneration projects, as the Kusturica’s propo-
sition of «new» orthodox churches. Work in
creative terms on the deconstruction and recon-
struction, as the Chinese artist Zhang Dali proposes
by inserting his own aesthetic vision in the process
of the building Chinese industry. The Bio Shoe
should follow this idea.
4
Clarify and deepen the harmony and at the same
Advancing new combinations between traditional time the difference between what is original
and new materials. (unique and distinctive) and authentic in order
to face with clarity the problem of imitation and
of the fake: originality can be imitated, but authen-
ticity cannot.Reflect on the consequences of a
product origins onto the product aesthetics and its
42 43
Milan London
Cannes Cannes
1 3
Emphasize the genius loci and the know how of Allow the tradition and the well-rooted techniques
specific territories and communities. to become an innovative element of the product.
2 4
Approach the cultural roots of products in an Imagine aesthetic languages that are linked to
expressive and radical manner. the past but that do gratify present needs.
44 45
New York
Consumption Trend
Narrative Nutrition
The ever more important value of imagination

and the story telling dimension is linked to the
Internet and TV) but through investigation,
comments and opinions that often influence
New York
large scale public participation in recent years to reality profoundly.
literature festivals, public readings of classics,
filmography and its historic characters.
As with the use of DVD and their multi story
structure, the radical consumer today tends more
and more to recreate in terms of modernity detailed
contents, products and services, but also the world
that rotates around these. Sharing stories and
personal tales with others (including companies)
and have the possibility to know more about what
you are buying is the new consumers increasing
need: the company spaces or museums, the state-
ment of a plot that has involved the brand with
1
its episodes and oddities, contribute to this narra- Understand that the dynamics of advanced
tive unfolding of the identity. consumption are nourished through the logic
Even specialised publications on the history of of individual tales and shared themes.
companies have also become more appreciated.
The growth in interest in recent years for film-
documentaries, the extraordinary success of tales
of literature, stories, religion that use the prin-
cipal day to day characters as a link, are a signal
of the return to a encyclopaedic and series based
culture, with the support of DVD that facilitates
the organic and ordered transmission of infor-
2
mation. The packaging often transforms into a
container of stories. Recover with attention the story of Companies,
Consumption as a new area of reality to deepen regions and every single product, that nearly
is having a rapid development through press inves- always contain elements to learn from.
tigation and specialised TV channels. Daily news-
papers and magazines at this point don’t just target
the day’s news (for this there are free magazines,
46 47
São Paulo
Consumption Trend
Ethic Ethnic
Cannes The near future could bring up unexpected scenarios

in which obsolete «technologies» (as velotaxis) are
lore does not represent a way of faking the original
traditions, but express authentic habits that could
taken over by Western societies, in order either to be «exported» in other countries with totally new
solve some ecological problems (such as urban characteristics. The new link between ethic and
traffic), to give an answer to ancient needs (such ethnics underlines a new-born interest towards a
as relaxing and slowing down) or due to the cultural post-colonial approach in order to reconcile the
influence of the East on the West. This is the key cultural differences, which characteristics are similar
access to the Ethic Ethnic trend. The new attention to the on field research approach that has always
people are paying to the new dimension of the ethic marked the British anthropological culture – from
and ethnic trade has been fuelled by the growing Malinowski to Clifford–. The focus on the different
interest for different habits, also due to the increasing characteristics of culture allows a new insight into
access to travelling. The amount of expenses on one’s cultural habits.
travelling for holidays and leisure represents an
increasing market in European countries: 43,8%
of British, 28,8% of Germans and 25% of French
3
Activate through products new stories of life, and Spanish declare to be willing to increase their
that become memorable for the clients that expe- budget for travelling in the next years.
rience them. This consumption trend describes the growing
interest of people towards products, services and
the everyday habits that come from different coun-
tries. Ethnic food i.e. has become an usual custom
within the daily life of million of Europeans, with
different degrees of penetration mainly due to the
history and the culture of each country. The ethic
value of trade has been spreading quickly throughout
the mass market in the last few years, loosing its
4
original rigid characteristics of a niche within the
Solicit the narrative involvement of clients, market, and has become a real issue for trade (either
awarding the more original and passionate tales. for suppliers or for customers). This trend now fully
involves the different dimensions of project, produc-
tion, communication and retail.
We are facing a new phenomenon of «normalisa-
tion of the ethnic», in which what is called folk-
48 49
Cannes New York
Milan New York
1 3
Acknowledge the integral value of some behav- Consider fair trade as a real support for the local
iours and consumption habits that come from production of handicrafts on the southern part
different cultures. of the world.
2 4
Point out the distinctive values of culture that Develop a new sensibility to be applied on the
don’t have a global influence but that could however ongoing competition between different markets
contribute to an intercultural enrichment. and cultures.
50 51
Final Keywords The future of the Bio Shoe

Huge Interlace
In the last decade, the dynamics of «cultural polli- and the world of design in general. Accessories,
nation» have permeated the world of project and for example, become body decorations and look
the overall approach to the use and circulation like sculptures that have been created to generate
Cultural Values of products which present a very sophisticated a strong visual impact and not necessarily a high
aesthetic. The ability to construct an original degree of functionality.
Regional Roots vision of the design projects merges with the act
of reviewing it on the basis of people’s daily needs
for having products highly personalised. «Cultural
Innovative Shapes pollination» has become a natural phenomenon
in people’s life, crucial to the realisation of one’s
Organic Aesthetics own style and identity. The iPhone by Apple
proposes a range of multiple services (phone,
mp3, videos, camera and internet navigation)
Integral Story and gives users the opportunity to highly person-
alise the performance.
Wellness The overlapping of different materials constantly
influences people’s aesthetics and styles, by the
sophisticated fusion of worlds that are culturally
Comfort distant to each other and that can now mix thanks
to designers’ creative suggestion pushed by people’s
Everyday Paradise desire for exploring cultural differences. In this
context, it is important to preserve the «whole
picture» of a project/product usage in order to
easily merge very different elements that consumers
have yet to assimilate. After the worldwide success
of Sin City, another masterpiece inspired by Frank
Miller demonstrates the tendency to blur the
boundary between cinema and cartoon, between
history and fiction. In the movie 300, aesthetic
language and epochs of narration mix up, giving
life to a unique interlace.
The creative and visionary spirit of the world of
art has now influenced people’s daily life aesthetics
52 53
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New York San Francisco
1 3
54
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3
The Active Shoe
What is the Bio Shoe
This task is aimed at transforming footwear from are able to perform static and dynamic measure-
New York
a static and passive element to a dynamic and ments but as they are not wireless, measurements
active device capable of adapting to the user and can only be carried out in laboratorial conditions.
to environmental conditions and of protecting A multidisciplinary team consisting of experts in
in a smart and active way the wearer’s foot health. materials, organic chemistry, textiles, micro-
To achieve this objective different fundamental electronics, medicine, communications and soft-
research areas will be developed where radical ware will carry out this working line.
innovations will be achieved.
This sub task is aimed at defining requirements

and specifications for new families of materials
to be used in the active shoe, such as materials
with physical and chemical behaviors dependent
on the service environment and type of load.
The objective of this task is the development of
sensing systems to monitor physiological, mechan-
ical or general health parameters which will be
related to the prevention of foot problems or to
feedback micro-actuators to improve comfort or
shoe functionality.
They will improve consumer quality of life and

contribute to health and safety of specific groups
of consumers, through the introduction of high
tech functionalities in shoes. On-line and contin-
uous measurement of foot load and environment
are to be considered as breakthrough innovations, [Text taken from the Description of Work of the CEC-Made-
in a market scenario in which commercial systems Shoe Project]
57
3. THE ACTIVE SHOE THE ACTIVE SHOE
Strategic Concept
Hyper-Being
The MindStyles
The body becomes the source of inspiration for the new technological products that can rein-
Think & Touch
1 force one’s own mental and physical performance.
The advances in the fields of nanotechnology and medicine bring into light innovative solutions
2 that respect human nature and its needs.
The consumer is overwhelmed by the technolog-
3
New solutions allow the protection of the human body and manage to set one free from his/hers
ical solutions available in the market and has famil-
iarised with the idea of a fast changing tech-world. encumbrances.
People of all ages and social class accept innova-
tive proposals that are really user-friendly and low-
4
cost. The technological advances in sectors like Experimentation and a mix of sophisticated materials, in order to create new typologies of acces-
textiles and wearable technology have a very precise sories and clothing that facilitate the body after long-term research.
objective: to reinforce human performance and
support parts of the body. The current direction
represents the «golden» era for digital technology
and its limitless applications. There is an increasing
need for interactivity between people in both private
and public spaces and the world of communica-
5 Wearable technology has reached its most advanced expression that does not impose techno-
logical innovation but proposes new rituals.
tions is facing the first implications of innovative

solutions, like the wi-fi spots or RFID tags. The
evolution of the smart home and planet are getting
more and more close to the people’s desires and
6 The use of the new technological products makes possible the expression of feelings and thoughts
through the body.
needs. Nowadays, consumers have enough «tools»

that allow them not only to handle but also modify,
elaborate and so on, electronic sounds, multimedia
images and videos.
7 The research in the field of nanotechnologies brings surprising results that find new applications,
from cosmetics to sports equipment.
8 The daily presence of «nano-things», even with few mass-market applications, becomes more
and more evident.
9 The real-time control of a computer or a robot is becoming a reality, mostly for the disabled
people.
10 The mind as the «lord of creation», who makes possible the convergence between the human
body and the machines.
58 59
Strategic Concept
PerceptivInsight
The MindStyles
The centrality of an introspective sensitivity that translates into a story: fragments of daily life
1
*
Sixth Sense and biographical notes that give strength and substance to the visionary evocation.
The creative quest for a personal and intimate contact with reality in an age of virtual worlds
2 and high-speed information.
The reconfirmation of the visionary elaboration of archetypes, throwing new light on the collec-
The evocative and emotional traits of the Sixth &
Sense area will continue to constitute one of the
essential references for individual and collective
existence into the near future. Indeed, the evolu-
tion of that which operates on a deeper level -
3 tive imagination’s universal sources of inspiration.
Alongside interest in cinematic and digital languages, a return to the visual and plastic arts, the
corporeal, sensorial, emotive and mental - is increas-
ingly influencing many fields of human experience,
from the creative area to the experimental tech-
nologies, from the world of consumption to that
4 manual aspect of creation and writing: tools of reflection and expression that produce a work that
is slower to construct and more difficult to manipulate.
of the arts. Any attempt to analyze the «signs» of

the manifold dimensions of experience must be
channelled through the visionary capacity to inter-
pret a new awareness of the body, the centrality of
5 The use of traditional expressive languages to rediscover the implications of a gesture, a word and
their symbolic capacity: links to an increasingly illusive reality.
relations, the interaction with organic life, the rela-
6
Expression of a vision understood as a bridge between the evocative interior richness and the
tionship with space and the city and common
experiences of relationship and exchange with the territory.
everyday «acts».
Renewed enthusiasm in relationships and shared experiences, especially in an area that works on
7 perception: a hybridization of narrative styles, temporal dialogues, venues of sharing and the
emotive thrill of encounters.
8 The rediscovery of the potential of a daily routine in which the ordinary and extraordinary are
made to converge for an experience that translates into sharable vital signs, interior visions.
9 Awakening the soul of a project, a product, a relationship by means of the signs and visions that
characterize its essence in the present time.
* The Sixth & Sense MindStyle has been considered relevant for both the Snap Shoe and the Active Shoe, even if the Strategic
Concepts are different and mark their role in different directions. 10 The centrality of the character and the non-verbal means of expression, capable of creating the
conditions for a «visionary» communication.
60 61
London
Aesthetic Trend
Therapeutic Technology
Today we need to understand that the role of tech-

nology becomes strongly reorganised in regard to
knowledge of oneself, through the understanding
that «even objects have a soul». The barriers
Beijing
the vision of human and biological landscapes. between the truth and virtual appear to be more
This leads to identify an aesthetic and functional and more one the completion of the other.
area of great importance that is expressed in the
therapeutic vocation of a soft technology, in a
position to strengthen the demand for new life
qualities, as can be seen more and more in large
scale producers bathroom accessories and sani-
tary fittings. Companies and designers need to
work on the aesthetics of a not invasive and often
invisible technology, that incarnates a light and
reassuring presence, and works as a butterfly wing:
light and powerful, flexible but tangible. On this
basis we can foresee an aesthetic of Therapeutic
1
Technology, that is not so much a style but incar- Consider technology as the facilitator of a ther-
nates and expresses a particular view, as happens apeutic character.
in the integration of sound that Gap has previewed
with musical jackets Hoodio.
To develop products in which technology puts
into focus emotions is more and more important,
and represents therefore a concrete help in the
exploration of the most mysterious worlds. The
most advanced projects reside in this case in the
performative potential of the technological processes,
like in the Adidas_1 shoe that absorbs micro-
2
trauma produced from running in contact with
various types of surface. Forms of therapeutic tech- Emphasize the sensorial experience through
nology take part also in so-called soft surgery treat- technology.
ments that are more and more perceived and lived
by people as simple aesthetic-health treatments.
The relationship with technology therefore becomes
a fascinating and complex journey towards the
62 63
London
Aesthetic Trend
Detournement Details
London Artist and designers today are working on details

not like a comprehensive, finished, co-ordinated
forming useful details into delightful experiences
that stand in between the internal and the external,
drawing. It rather embodies the role of the asym- the image and the substance, the form and the
metrical creative exception, thus proposing a function. Developing attention and sensibility
surprising, radical effect. The Active Shoe should towards an «anthropology of the everyday life»,
tend to surprise the consumers. thus transforming the common language of objects
Figuring out aesthetics in which the product doesn’t into an evolutionary path. Critical sensibility and
aim to propose itself as a totally detourning achieve- even the small daily obsessions become a strategic
ment. Only a detail could possess this character- project that carries new meanings and new forms
istic, thus destabilising the overall rational linear of interaction.
function, as happens in D-Licious’ products.
The very same nature of modernity exceeds herself,
recognising the critical reflexive vitality that the
theory of complexity has made necessary, thus
3
proposing an aesthetic of the Detournement Details,
Introduce «soft» interaction with the products. as happens in most of the Marti Guixé’s objects.
A way of thinking that follows the logic of creative
chaos more than the rules of structured programmes,
as taught by Rem Koolhaas with his projects on
the urban area. However, this attitude represents
mostly a premise for a challenging project than a
fixed component of the aesthetic projects.
Sorting out new products able to propose a creative
approach in order to cross the borders that exist
between the public and the private sphere. Thus
leading to a new frontier able to freed imagina-
4
tion that could be used in a useful way on the
Create magic through technology. everyday life through the concept of common
good. Using details to re-assemble totality, providing
the audience with an emotional image as a refer-
ential point, and consequently transforming the
unique character of accessories into a personal
mark, also in the «active» dimension. Trans-
64 65
Beijing London
Milan London
1 3
Pay attention on the small elements that make Blend the details with the background.
a big difference.
2 4
Use simple ideas in order to reveal new points of Work on elements of wonder and surprise.
view.
66 67
Bruxelles
Consumption Trend
Experimental Expression
In the future consumption scenarios, people will

be able to handle the products in an autonomous,
on the designer’s signature and brand that if expe-
rienced as separate realities, risk to remain detached
Milan
fast and creative manner and services offered to from reality.
them, as is already happening in the field of photog- For these reasons is thus necessary to work on
raphy, thanks to new digital technologies. This will originality and on its own aesthetic and concep-
also mean a rise in consumption as an instanta- tual origin, on alternative values, suggesting the
neous expression (and extemporary creativity) of originality of the Company, of the Country, of the
oneself to be multiplied and distributed like exis- sector. In the active dimension and in the teenage
tential MMS. world in particular, the value of authenticity is
Consumption becomes a creative dimension strongly recognized and loved by the consumers.
expressed through experimental impulse and This is what happens in the Nike Considered
expressiveness. The body assumes a pivotal role project, but also with the Canadian collective
as a means of expression and street-styles, body Adbusters, famous for its critic and subversive
signals, make up, and soft cosmetic surgery become approach to communication: their experimenta-
the tools to express oneself, through the re-elab- tion has lead to projects such as the Blackspot
1
oration of products and their stimuli. Even reality Shoe. They only produce two styles, iconic and Stimulate and support the experimental impulse
shows are used as real «experimentation labs» of sustainable, but they also suggest to «delete» the that has by this time taken possession of the new
new behaviours. In this trend the originality of logos from any sneakers: in this case communi- consumer.
consumption is expressed through what can be cation and product go together and reveal a true
defined as an «expressive sociality». Nowadays, experimentation.
coolhunting has become a widespread practice
amongst consumers of all ages, as the best way to
catch and gather fragments of reality, to testify
one’s own presence/participation and personality:
this is demonstrated for example by the success
of Al Gore’s Current TV, the first TV that is mostly
2
created by the audience itself.
In this process of anthropologic and sociologic Help people to appropriate their own creative
reading of daily life, in which the on-the-spot instinct before the expressive one, suggesting new
observation and personal re-elaboration gain a practices, or semi-finished to interpret, and not
main role, consumers are far more expert than new models of reference.
companies, who remain anchored to rigid cate-
gories and are self-centred with a strong emphasis
68 69
Cannes
Consumption Trend
Fast Fascination
Los Angeles The theme of speed and of the instant fascina-

tion proposed by the SMS, constitutes a decisive
In the new impulsive consumption the idea of the
bargain, of the immediacy and of speed of action
element in the evolution of consumption, pointing is mixed with the fascination for all what is easy,
out the new directions for the category that has developing the great power and attractiveness of
been defined «out of impulse» for many years. In «lightness». Accessibility and non-possession
this perspective the immediate gratification has become the new key word of the market, and the
a positive (direct) relationship with the acces- more it is shared, the more it is interesting to the
sible price, which makes the product desirable a eyes of the consumer. The theme parks, places of
certain product or service that normally belongs entertainment, the holiday resorts, outlets, etc,
to the creative basic. express a search for aggregation that the more is
In this horizon, we find the emergence of recent able to share the experience, the happier the expe-
services such as «proposal of the first hour» dragged rience becomes: the new «tourist» model that
by the web, that have revolutionised the travel imposes itself represents the relationship between
sector (like Ryanair) or the financial services (i.e. individual and social consumption, without creating
ING). The idea of the «last minute» merges with a mass of «anonymous consumers» as it happens
3
Embody the extraordinary technological poten- the concept of the «first hour», that marks this in the typical post-modern way of thinking.
tiality of our society, in new tangible forms of evolutionary strategy because, apart from the
creative «know how». bargain factor, emphasises the capacity of conquering
the consumer «in the first place».
In this case we enter the logic and the psychology
of the gift to oneself or the other, and of the self-
consumption of treats and indulgence, which finds
in the notion of time the variable for control. It is
an important trend that indicates new fascinating
and lighter ways to shop, as the impulse purchase,
which, as in the case of the SMS are realised with
4
extreme speed (without thinking too much), and
Gather images and suggest new consumption without particular deepening. Data demonstrates
behaviours, which can then be re-thought and how European families, and in particular the new
twisted by the consumers themselves. generations of consumers, do not renounce to treats
and indulgences, but they instead express an increasing
need for using their leisure time to meet up in aggre-
gation areas and for fun.
70 71
São Paulo San Diego
New York Milan
1 3
Stimulate the speed of the consumer’s thinking Emphasize the attractiveness that enhances an
in relation to the shopping activity, and not the essential form of simplicity, expressing a profound
speed of fruition: the instant gratification can cultural meaning.
then last throughout time.
2 4
Promote the idea of the bargain service (or even Create the conditions for a magical and unex-
of the free service) adopting alternative strategies, pected encounter with the client, encouraging
that are explained with clarity to the client. intuition and the coup de foudre, beyond the
economic value of the product.
72 73
Final Keywords The future of the Active Shoe

Massive Details
The more classic icons of femininity (flowers, been metabolized and accepted: from being a post-
butterflies, high heels, prints of romantic inspi- feminist claim becomes a daily pleasure, freed from
ration...), had a powerful come-back to fashion specific moments (the evening, celebrations, festiv-
and loved, searched for by women of all ages, ities) and a true and proper fun and carefree rite.
become «massive», revealing themselves to be The line of makeup Barbie MAC is made up of a
Dynamic Style important in the definition of new glamour. This
type of aesthetic has invaded the apparently
series of products (chromatically dominated by
shocking pink) thought for a public of 20 to 30
distant worlds of technology, web graphics, indus- years of age. The irony in reference to the doll’s
Life Occasions trial design and artistic installation. iconic world is central to this project.
The British designer Susan Bradley has for years
Quick Response worked on designs of an extremely feminine touch,
made of little details that become the heart of each
project, like with the flower-shaped mirrors, the
New Functions clothes hangers in the shape of a heel, or the metal
sheets cut and proposed as tapestry for exteriors.
Personal Expression The attraction towards icons, ancient or contem-
porary symbols is a must for the young generations,
who remove the ideological or religious aspects,
Interaction they appropriate them in aesthetic terms in a contin-
uous game of happy combinations. The attraction
towards a surprising and moving aesthetic is a
consolidated phenomenon that continues to grow.
The poetry of de-contextualization and oneiric
inspiration continues to propose new and unex-
pected points of view. Ideated by MTV and Refill
Magazine, Seven is an itinerant exhibition dedi-
cated to skateboard decoration, carried out using
the «seven layers laser» technique.
Irony represents the fil rouge of this path of sensi-
bility: today is expressed with all its force through
the references targeting the universe of the divas
of all times and the more recognizable feminine
icons. The role of new femininity has at this point
74 75
Milan New York
New York San Francisco
1 3
76
2 4 77
C
Conclusions
The sense of design
and the consumer as a creative enterprise
by Francesco Morace, Future Concept Lab
Design will help people to live better, by giving style and design, the definition of long-term
an emotional and functional sense to their expe- strategies to improve the quality of living and
rience. Design will help organisations and marketing its everyday enjoyment.
give an innovative sense to their future. This way, The objective ends up being to place Europe and
design becomes the strategic key to interpreting the new renaissance tradition at the centre of a
and summarising the economic and financial new strategic vision that reconciles the quality
prospects for the next few years. In Europe and of the products, of the management and of daily
in the whole world. life, according to an interdisciplinary, innovative
and humanistic practice, breaking away from the
So when we speak of innovation now, we give spectre of the economic-centred view proposed
design and creativity a part that was played almost by capitalism and by the typically Anglo-Saxon
exclusively by technology until yesterday. In financing that is now being reappraised all over
United States it’s known as “design thinking”. the world, setting aside the old rationale of glob-
The aesthetic experience now pervades consump- alisation that is deaf to any difference, that squashes
tion all over the world and reopens the games, the distinctive spirit of peoples and nations.
handing us over a market to rethink, to recreate,
to redesign. A permanently changing, multi-direc- So, the vision of the New Renaissance could
tional market environment: architecture, fashion, revive the cultural fields of the Mediterranean
design, graphic art, visual arts, the web. In this and of Europe, and of countries and companies
path, design thinking is as close as it can possibly that acknowledge its centrality. This vision will
be to the Renaissance experience of a cross between probably end up being able to attract energies
art, spirit and technology, Leonardo da Vinci’s and interest beyond the European borders, partic-
inventions being the greatest example of this. It ularly in those countries that indirectly, through
is in this dimension that the sense of innovation their involvement in the colonial world, used to
also needs to be revised. represent the “other shores” of the Renaissance.
This way, the sense of design overlaps with the
The analyses of the Future Concept Lab have challenge of innovation and multiplies its mean-
for years verified that there is room for a neo- ings, according to a threefold rationale:
Renaissance vision of professions and market: a
revival of humanistic values, a regeneration of 1. Design as the creative sense of Europe, as a
scientific and technological research around a form of the European way that influences
strong nucleus of creative values that reaches us international trends in several increasingly
from human and social tradition, a centrality of design-sensitive sectors.
79
Conclusions Conclusions
2. Design as a creative sense in the market. and passion of the creative cut and paste, the speed You for us All and all of you for you as the discovery
Design thinking of the consumer, in other of sms communications, the file-sharing plans, of reciprocity and of the extraordinary power of
words the consumer’s capacity to select, to the narrative investigation of the DVD, the person- mutual assistance: and lastly Expressive Experi-
interpret, to freely put together services, alised exploration of the territory typical of satel- mentation as the challenge to enhance the value
products, aesthetics. lite navigation, the possible selective memory of of our own talents, our own creativity and our
iPod, the classic forms of convivial do-it-yourself own original point of view, even at the cost of
3. Design as a creative sense of the company. provided by digital video and photography or the not always being understood and appreciated. As
Design thinking of the businessman and the expressive experimentation of DJs have shown we can see, this is a set of values and behaviours
managers, which nowadays is really needed. us the way, starting out from the concreteness of that imply great lucidity and a lot of decision,
the practises of life and from the proactive strength with a precise capacity to choose, also at the cost
We are talking about a new convergence that follows of new mind patterns. of making a mistake: the thing that companies
on from the digital one: the successful encounter tend to avoid right now, while consumers have
of company, consumption and project. In the perspec- This takes place particularly clearly in the expe- learnt the lesson, and have turned into a real
tive of a future existence for companies and people, rience of the new generations, who have been creative enterprise.
the world and the consumer trends do not at all raised and have fed on this every day through
demonstrate the independence in value that they permanent connection and virtual contents of
have expressed in the last twenty years, but seri- the most advanced technologies. In the company,
ously contribute to reviving a range of advanced, people often have to abandon their increasingly
experimental values that are developed through sophisticated strategies for knowledge manage-
behaviours and parameters suggested and backed ment, learnt in their free time and in their daily
by the new technologies. The prediction that the lives and relations, to step down in favour of hier-
new economy would revolutionise the essential archical, functional, defensive patterns and models,
values of existence and relationships with ourselves which still characterise most companies, in the
(becoming isolated information points), over time furniture sector too. And so a social and intelli-
(accepting the instant nature of living) and over gence heritage is dilapidated where it could instead
space (encouraging the breaking down of territo- help many companies take that long-awaited leap
rial barriers and indifferences to the place), has in quality. This is the paradox of innovation on
turned out to be completely incorrect. Indeed, paper, practised only in training courses, which
beginning exactly midway through the ‘90s, strong often creates frustration and disenchantment in
moves against the trends were displayed and they managers looking for excellence. So, this means
rediscovered and reassessed memory, origins, roots, starting again from simple, concrete, everyday
thick, slow time, territory, narrations, ethnic, as practices that give space to those same rationales
well as sharing and expressive experimentation. that seem to guide the consumer: Combo Consump-
This applies to people in their private, daily exis- tion as the capacity to reshuffle cards and infor-
tence, while in the world of work and professions, mation in a creative manner; Fast Fascination as
it is only now that doubts and perplexities are begin- the courage to leave room for intuition and for
ning to emerge as regards the performance-oriented that ‘blink’; Project Partnership as the acknowl-
and accelerated model imposed in the ‘90s as the edgement of the value of the next person and of
new standard of professionalism (what’s more, no their ideas, and as the willingness to share; Narra-
word is less loved and recognised nowadays, while tive Nutrition as the need to rediscover our own
the idea of the happy job is gaining inroads…) stories, and the stories of companies and people
that can leave their mark; Tailor Territory as the
On the other hand, the new technologies helped capacity for listening and for targeted commu-
change the “mental” behaviours that each of us nication, to achieve ambitious objectives; Me
absorbed as new parameters of thinking, deciding Memory as the reflective vocation, rediscovery
and evaluating. The typical combinatorial capacity of ourselves and of our unique, singular paths;
80 81
Authors
Francesco Morace Paolo Ferrarini
Sociologist, writer and journalist, he has worked Researcher, expert in art, customs and advanced
for more than twenty years in the field of social communication and within Future Concept Lab
and market research. He is chairman of Future responsible for research dedicated to youth culture.
Concept Lab where he is responsible for the Mind- Graduated from DAMS Bologna, is specialised in
Style and Genius Loci research programmes. Strate- the study of aesthetics, the evolution of style and
gical Consultant of Companies and Institutions, research methodologies. Has coordinated projects
he teaches at the Domus Academy and the Milan in different sectors, from that of fashion to tech-
Polytechnic and holds courses and seminars in nology, from communication to retail. He teaches
Italy and abroad. at Domus Academy, Istituto Marangoni and Politec-
nico di Milano. Co-author with Francesco Morace
and Valentina Ventrelli of the book: Italian Ways,
Libri Scheiwiller 2003.
83
CEC-Made-Shoe Project Partners
COMPOSAN ADHESIVOS FALC Spa

Ctra. Agost. N°59 POL. IND. CANASTELL 03690 Contrada S Domenico, 24 62012 Civitanova Marche
San Vicente del Raspeig – Spain MC – Italy
José Iniesta Erika Carassai
CEC-Made-Shoe Project Partners www.composan-adhesivos.com www.falc.biz
CONCENTRIS FCL
Davidsbodenstrasse 63 CH - 4056 Basel – Switzerland Viale Gran Sasso 7, 20131 Milano – Italy
Joachim Koeser Francesco Morace
www.concentris.com Paolo Ferrarini
www.futureconceptlab.com
CPA
Zur Schlenkhecke 6 D-40764 Langenfeld – Germany FRAU
Frank Neuhaus Via Torino 18/20 37035 San Giovanni Ilarione (VR)
ALFA CEC www.cpa.de – Italy
Poligono Juncaril , 227-229 Pbox 6 18220 Albolote Rue François Bossaerts, 53 1030 Bruxelles – Belgium Renzo d’Arcano
– Spain Roeland Smets CTC Flavio Merigo
Ignacio Rios Jan Somers Parc Scientifique Tony Garnier 4, rue Hermann www.frau.it
www.lederval.es www.cecshoe.be Frenkel 69367 Lyon Cedex 07 – France
Françoise Nicolas GESTVAR
ALPINA TOR/CEC Catherine Dodet Rua do Alto da Torre, 100 3885-436 Ezmoriz
Strojarska, 2 4226 ZIRI – Slovenia 20, Wells Road Glastonbury Somerset BA6 9DJ – UK www.ctc.fr – Portugal
Martin Kopac Martin Baker Rui Pinto
Igor Zupan CTCA www.aerosoles.pt
www.alpina.si CEI Rua de Fundões - Devesa Velha 3700-121 S. João da
Rua Almirante Barroso , n°58-3° DTO Po BOx 1066 Madeira – Portugal HERGAR
ARBESKO 1000-013 Lisboa – Portugal Leandro Melo Avda Industria, 4 26580 Arnedo La Rioja – Spain
Post Box 1642 S-701 16 Orebro – Sweden Fernando Sousa Maria José Ferreira Basilio Garcia
Peter Geisler www.zipor.com www.ctcalcado.pt Christina Puche
www.arbesko.se www.hergar.com
CESECA DELCAM
ANWR Via Piaggiori Basso, 212 55018 Segromigno in Monte Small Heath Business Park, Birmingham, B10 OHJ. HUGO BOSS
Nord-West-Ring Strasse 11 63533 Mainhausen Lucca – Italy – UK Via Sant’Apollonia 32 6877 Coldrerio – Switzerland
– Germany Daniele Zingoni Chris Lewis Jones Fred Voorhorst
Hans Peter Richter www.ceseca.it www.delcam.com www.hugoboss.com
www.anwr.de
CLPO DOW IAO
BASF SE ul. Zakopia_ska 9, 30-418 Kraków – Poland via Carpi, 29 42015 - Correggio (RE) – Italy Nobelstr. 12c D-70569 Stuttgart – Germany
BASF SE, EVX/LET - G100, 67056 Ludwigshafen Robert Gajewski Elisa Corinti Rita Nøstdal
– Germany www.clpo.com.pl Renato Paludetto www.iao.fraunhofer.de
Peter Danisch www.dow.com
Gerhard Wolf COMELZ IBV
www.basf.com/leather Viale Indipendenza, 55 27029 Vigevano – Italy ELKEDE Universidad Politécnica de Valencia - Edificio 9C
Bruno Zorzolo 12th km Athens-Lamia National Road 144 52 Camino de Vera s/n E-46022 Valencia – Spain
BATA www.comelz.com Metamorphos - Athens – Greece Juan Carlos Gonzales
Europaplein 1 5684 ZC Best – The Netherlands Philip Azariadis José Olaso Melis
Erwin Van Rozendaal www.elkede.gr www.ibv.org
www.bata.nl
84 85
CEC-Made-Shoe Project Partners CEC-Made-Shoe Project Partners
ICIMSI-SUPSI LBORO PRANKE

Galleria 2 CH-6928 Manno – Switzerland Ashby Road LE 11 3TU Loughborough – UK Karlstrasse 16 b 76133 Karlsruhe – Germany
Claudio Boër Shahin Rahimifard Harald Pranke
Andrea Castrovinci Sujee Jeyapalina www.pranke.com
www.icimsi.ch www.lboro.ac.uk
PROCALCADO
IFW LIITTO Largo Alminhas Das Barrancas, 97(Feitera) 4415-343
Schönebecker Allee 2, 30823 Garbsen – Germany Mannerheimintie 76 B, 00250 Helsinki – Finland Pedroso – Portugal
Berend Denkena Yrjo Gorski Rui Russo
Stefan Brehmeir www.muotikaupanliitto.fi www.forever.pt
www.ifw.uni-hannover.de
LIREL SILLER
INESC Zona Industrial de Arrifana 3701-908 Arrifana Wannenäckerstrasse 43 74078 Heilbronn – Germany
Campus da FEUP Rua Dr. Roberto Frias, nº 378 4200- – Portugal Ralf Michi
465 Porto – Portugal Manuel Resende www.siller.de
José Carlos Caldeira Nuño Lopes
Luis Carneiro STEEB
www.inescporto.pt MOLINA E BIANCHI Heilbronner Strasse, 4 74232 Abstatt – Germany
Viale Industria 213/5 27029 Vigevano – Italy Helmut Felzmann
INESCOP Stefano Secchi www.steeb.de
Polígono Industrial “Campo Alto” P.O. Box 253 www.molinaebianchi.it
03600 Elda (Alicante) – Spain STRING
César Orgilés MAESTRE (HORMAS) p.za Sraffa, 4 20136 Milano – Italy
Enrique Montiel Polígono Campo Alto C/ Italia, parcela 8103600 - Beppe Colli
www.inescop.es Elda (Alicante) – Spain www.string.it
José Ramon Maestre
ITIA www.hormasmaestre.com TECNICA
Viale Lombardia, 20/A 20131 Milano – Italy Via Fante D’Italia 56, Giavera del Montello 31040
Francesco Jovane MANAS Treviso – Italy
www.itia.cnr.it Via Tangenziale 14/16 62010 Montecosaro Scalo Antonello Marega
(MC) – Italy www.tecnica.it
ITIA - TPM Cleto Sagripanti
Via Pisani 1, 27029, Vigevano, Pavia – Italy Alessandra Albano TNO
Emanuele Carpanzano www.manas.com De Rondom 1 5612 AP Eindhoven
www.itia.cnr.it – The Netherlands
PIEP Sytze Kalisvaart
ITIA Universidade do Minho Campus de Azurém 4800-058 www.tno.nl
Viale Lombardia, 20/A 20131 Milano – Italy Guimarães – Portugal
Andrea Ballarino António Augusto Cunha TTS
Antonio Diterlizzi Carla Simoes Largo Calesotto, 1 23900 Lecco – Italy
www.dep.uminho.pt/piep Antonio Avai
KYAIA www.ttsnetwork.com
Rua 24 de Junho, 453 Penselo 4800 Guimarães PONS
– Portugal San Antonio, 120 07730 Alayor – Spain TUM
Fortunato Frederico Santiago Pons Quintana Leopoldstraße 139 80804 Munich – Germany
Luis Gonçalves Rafael Palliser Ralf Reichwald
www.kyaia.com www.ponsquintana.com Angelika Bullinger
www.tum.de
86 87

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00.Introduzione(01-11).

qxd 30-09-2008 17:04 Pagina 1

Future Concept Lab

Real Footwear Trends

edited by Francesco Morace and Paolo Ferrarini

Introduction by Francesco Morace 5

The Snap Shoe 13

Conclusions by Francesco Morace

by Francesco Morace, Future Concept Lab

The urgent need for a New Renaissance

or religion, but comes instead from their indi- HUGE INTERLACE

Methodological Note Methodological Note

Relevant Strategic Aesthetic Consumption

Essential Life Progressive Combo

Core Core Materic Narrative

Think Hyper- Therapeutic Experimental

What is a Snap Shoe

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

2 edge to recognise the useless and superfluous aspects.

sands of different voices and expressions. Over

which one’s most profound authenticity can be

represented by the new relationship between

whereby thought is actually nourished by concrete

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

a deeper level - corporeal, sensorial, emotive and

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

Underlining the generative creativity of progres-

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

London Today it’s important to focus on the widespread

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

Our perception has strongly changed in the last

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

São Paulo The GPS navigator proposes a more appropriate

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

New York New York

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

Final Keywords The future of the Snap Shoe

1. THE SNAP SHOE THE SNAP SHOE

Milan San Francisco

New York Stockholm

What is the Bio Shoe

The objective of this task is to define the new

Specialists in polymer chemistry, polymer processing

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

8 opathy, etc.) are driving factors in achieving a balanced doctor-patient relationship.

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

Today it’s necessary to re-define the modern sense

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

Milan Carefully consider the original meaning paying

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

The ever more important value of imagination

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

Cannes The near future could bring up unexpected scenarios

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

Cannes New York

Milan New York

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

Final Keywords The future of the Bio Shoe

2. THE BIO SHOE THE BIO SHOE

Milan San Francisco