Crossover Straight Through

Cable Cable
RJ-45 RJ-45 RJ-45 RJ-45
PIN PIN PIN PIN
1 Rx+ 3 Tx+ 1 Tx+ 1 Rc+
2 Rc- 6 Tx- 2 Tx- 2 Rc-
3 Tx+ 1 Rc+ 3 Rc+ 3 Tx+

6 Tx- 2 Rc- 6 Rc- 6 Tx-

Note: The standard connector view shown is color-coded for a

straight thru cable

Category 5 wiring standards:

EIA/TIA 568A/568B and AT&T 258A define the wiring standards and allow
for two different wiring color codes.

Ethernet
Pin EIA/TIA AT&T 258A, or
Signal 10BASE-T
# 568A EIA/TIA 568B
100BASE-T
1 Transmit+ White/Green White/Orange X
Green/White Orange/White
2 Transmit- X
or Green or Orange
3 Receive+ White/Orange White/Green X
Blue/White Blue/White
4 N/A Not used *
or Blue or Blue
5 N/A White/Blue White/Blue Not used *
Orange/White Green/White
6 Receive- X
or Orange or Green
7 N/A White/Brown White/Brown Not used *
Brown/White Brown/White
8 N/A Not used *
or Brown or Brown
 Pairs may be solid colors and not have the stripe.
 Category 5 cable must use Category 5 rated connectors.

Only two pairs of wires in the eight-pin RJ-45 connector are used to carry
Ethernet signals. Both 10BASE-T and 100BASE-T use the same pins, a
crossover cable made for one will also work with the other.

*Note: Even though pins 4,5,7, and 8 are not used, it is mandatory
that they be present in the cable

Introduction
This document shows how to properly construct a Crossover network cable. This cable can be used
to directly connect two computers to each other without the use of a hub or switch. The ends on a
crossover cable are different from each other, whereas a normal 'straight through' cable has identical
ends. Their uses are shown in the following diagrams.
 Crossover cable use

'Straight Through' cable use

Typically the ports on a hub are MDIX ports. This allows the machine at the other end to utilize its MDI
Port (which is what typically a NIC card uses) without the need for a crossover cable. When I say that
the ports on the hub are MDIX ports, what I mean is that one of the functions of the hub is to
automatically perform the crossover functions, which are required to properly align the cables with
each other. When no hub or switch is used, your cable itself must physically perform these crossover
functions.

To expand on this a little, when using a hub or switch, the Transmit wires on the workstation need to
be connected to the Receive wires on the hub; likewise, the Receive wires on the hub need to be
connected to the Transmit wires on the workstation. But if you remember what we stated earlier -
cables which are run from PC to Hub are 'straight through' type cables. This is because the hub is
providing the required crossover functions internally for you. Thus, when you connect two machines
together without the use of a hub or switch, a crossover cable is required - because both 'ends' are
essentially the same - a NIC Card. The crossover function must take place somewhere, and since
there is no hub or switch to do it for you, the cable must.

Now that we know what a crossover cable is for, let's talk for a few about types of cabling. The two
most common unshielded twisted-pair (UTP) network standards are the 10 Mbit (10BASE-T Ethernet)
and the 100Mbit (100BASE-TX Fast Ethernet). In order for a cable to properly support 100 Mbit
transfers, it must be rated Category 5 (or CAT 5). This type of low loss extended frequency cable will
support 10 Base T, 100 Base-T and the newer 100VG-AnyLAN applications. Other types of cabling
include Category 3 which supports data rates up to 16 Mbps, and Category 1 which only supports
speeds up to 1Mbps. The cable we are about to make is considered Category 5, and will work on both
10 Mbit and 100 Mbit systems, assuming all components used (cables and jacks) are rated for
Category 5.

What you need

Cable - Be sure the cable(s) you are using is properly rated for CAT 5. It should state clearly on the
jacket of the cable, what it is rated at. One option that you have when selecting your cable is to use a
pre-made normal 'straight through' cable, and simply whack off one of the ends, and replace with a
new "Crossed Over" end. For the purpose of this article, though, we aren't going to go that route. We
are going to make the whole thing from scratch - using bulk CAT 5 cable.
 Keep everything within hands reach of you...

Connectors - Crossover cables are terminated with CAT 5 RJ-45 (RJ stands for "Registered Jack")
modular plugs. RJ-45 plugs are similar to those you'll see on the end of your telephone cable except
they have eight versus four contacts on the end of the plug. Also, make sure the ends you select are
rated for CAT 5 wiring. There are also different types of jacks which are used for different types of
cabling (such as Solid Core wire). Make sure you buy the correct jacks for your cabling.

Crimper - You will need a modular crimping tool. My advice on what brand to get? Well, I really don't
have a preference at this point, but make sure you buy a good one. If you spend about 40 to 50
bucks, you should have one that will last ya a lifetime. Spend 10 to 20 bucks, and you might be able
to make a few cables with it if you're lucky. You definitely get what you pay for when it comes to
crimpers!

Stripper - No I'm not talking about what Spot had at his bachelor party , I am talking about a tool
to strip the ends off the wires you pervert! There are several specialized tools, which can be used to
strip the jackets off of cabling. If you do not have access to one of these tools, cautious use of a razor
blade or knife should work just fine - but keep in mind if you go the razor blade / knife route, extra
special care must be used as to not damage the wires inside the jacket.

Cutters - You need a pair of cutters that will allow you to cut a group of cables in a straight line. It is
very important that all the wires are the same lengths, and without proper cutters, this can be a
difficult task.

Doing the deed

You now know what crossover cables are used for. You know why you need one. You also know what
you need to make one, so I guess we're ready... First thing you will want to do it cut off the
appropriate length of cable that you will need. Be sure that it is plenty long enough. If you screw up,
and don't cut it long enough, you will have to start all over, and you will not only waste you time, but
cable and the RJ-45 ends as well. If you are pulling this cable through a wall, or ceiling, make sure the
pulling is completed first. It is much more difficult to pull a cable with the ends already on it. So you
have all the parts, you understand the concepts, and you have your cable, lets get started!
Baby steps...

1) - Start by stripping off about 2 inches of the plastic jacket off the end of the cable. Be very careful at
this point, as to not nick or cut into the wires, which are inside. Doing so could alter the characteristics
of your cable, or even worse render is useless. Check the wires, one more time for nicks or cuts. If
there are any, just whack the whole end off, and start over.
2) - Spread the wires apart, but be sure to hold onto the base of the jacket with your other hand. You
do not want the wires to become untwisted down inside the jacket. Category 5 cable must only have
1/2 of an inch of 'untwisted' wire at the end; otherwise it will be 'out of spec'. At this point, you
obviously have ALOT more than 1/2 of an inch of un-twisted wire, but don't worry - well take care of
that soon enough.

3) - Up to this point, things have been pretty easy. Things will get a little bit tricky here, but don't
worry, we'll get through this together. We are at a point in this article where a decision needs to be
made. You need to decide which end of the cable you are making at this point in time. If you are
making your cable from scratch like I am doing while writing this article, you have 2 end jacks, which
must be installed on your cable. If you are using a pre-made cable, with one of the ends whacked off,
you only have one end to install - the crossed over end. Below are two diagrams, which show how
you need to arrange the cables for each type of cable end. Decide at this point which end you are
making and examine the associated picture below.
 568a - standard end Crossed over end wire pattern
(you will need one of the ends on (you will want the other end to look
your cable to look like this) like this)

Begin to untwist the twisted exposed wires on your cable. Use caution so that you do not untwist them
down inside the jacket. Once you have all the wires untwisted begin to arrange them in the proper
order based on the pictures above. This stage can be a pain in the ass, especially some of the middle
wires. Once you get all the wired arranged in the proper order, make sure your wire cutters are within
reach then grasp them right at the point where they enter the jacket. Make sure you keep them in the
proper order! Grab your cutters now. Line them up along your prepared wires about 1/2 inch above
the jacket. Be sure at this point that you are both 1/2 inch above the jacket, and that your cutters are
aligned straight across the wires. You want to make a clean cut here - also make sure you don't let go
of that jacket / wires!
4) - Don't worry. From this point forward things get a lot easier. Grab your jack, and begin to slide the
wires into the jack. Once you get to the point where the jacket begins to enter the jack things might
get a little tough, but just have some patience and hold onto those wires. It will fit in there just fine.
Once it is in as far as it will go the wires should extend almost to the front of the jack, and about 3/8 of
an inch of the jacket will be inside the jack. Like the pictures below.

5) - Grab those crimpers - because not all crimpers are exactly the same your pictures may not match
exactly what you see below. Be sure to keep a good grip on that jack and the cable. Insert the jack
into the crimper. It should only go in one way, so you don't have a whole lot to worry about inserting it.
Begin to compress those crimpers. You will more than likely hear a clicking sound. Keep squeezing. If
you try to let go to early, nothing will happen. They will not release. Keep going until they stop
clicking / stop moving all together. At this point, you should be able to let go of the jack, and the
crimpers. The crimpers should release now leaving you with a crimped jack. If the crimpers do not
release, you probably are a wimp and didn't press hard enough. Go ask your mom to help you at this
point. She can probably finish what you started.

Insert the jack into the crimper Crimp it! Crimp it good!

6) - It's time to examine what we have done. If you look at the end of the jack (distal), you should see
that the copper connectors should not be pressed down into the wires. Toward the back of the jack
(where the jacket meets the jack) it should be crimped securely holding the jacket / cable in the jack. If
something has gone wrong, don't worry, its not the end of the world. Grab those cutters, and just
whack the whole jack off and start back at step 1 (a pain in the ass I know, but its better to have a
cable that works, than to spend hours trouble shooting your PC trying to figure out why you can't see
the other machine). If everything is cool, all you have to do now is make the other end of the cable
(unless you are using a pre-fab cable and have whacked one of the ends off), so go back to step one,
and make the other end now.

In closing
You should now have a fully functional CAT 5 Crossover cable. It's a good idea to label it as such,
especially if you have a lot of other cables lying around. So what are ya waiting for... install the cable
and test it out. If it doesn't work, double-check the ends. There is always a possibility that you have
overlooked something. If so just whack the bad end and make new one. Remember the more jacks
you install, and the more cables you make, the easier it gets. It's really not that hard to do, the first
time is definitely the most difficult.

Here are a few other things to keep in mind...

 Maximum Cable length for including connectors is 100 meters (or about 328 feet)
 Do not allow the cable to be sharply bent, or kinked, at any time. This can cause permanent
damage to the cables' interior
 Do not overtighten cable ties
 Do not use excessive force when pulling cable through floors, walls or ceilings
 Do not use staples to secure category-5 cable, use the proper hangers, which can be found at
most hardware stores
 COLOR-CODE STANDARDS
Last updated: 8/9/2004

Again, please bear with me...  Let's start with simple pin-out diagrams of the two types of UTP
Ethernet cables and watch how committees can make a can of worms out of them.  Here are the
diagrams:

Note that the TX (transmitter) pins are connected to corresponding RX (receiver) pins, plus to plus
and minus to minus.  And that  you must use a crossover cable to connect units with identical
interfaces.  If you use a straight-through cable, one of the two units must, in effect, perform the cross-
over function.

Two wire color-code standards apply: EIA/TIA 568A and EIA/TIA 568B. The codes are commonly
depicted with RJ-45 jacks as follows (the view is from the front of the jacks):

If we apply the 568A color code and show all eight wires, our pin-out looks like this:
Note that pins 4, 5, 7, and 8 and the blue and brown pairs are not used in either standard.  Quite
contrary to what you may read elsewhere, these pins and wires are not used or required to implement
100BASE-TX duplexing--they are just plain wasted.

However, the actual cables are not physically that simple.  In the diagrams, the orange pair of wires
are not adjacent.  The blue pair is upside-down.  The right ends match RJ-45 jacks and the left ends
do not.  If, for example, we invert the left side of the 568A "straight"-thru cable to match a 568A jack--
put one 180° twist in the entire cable from end-to-end--and twist together and rearrange the
appropriate pairs, we get the following can-of-worms:

This further emphasizes, I hope,  the importance of the word "twist" in making network cables which
will work.  You cannot use an flat-
untwisted telephone cable for a network
cable.  Furthermore, you must use a pair
of twisted wires to connect a set of
transmitter pins to their corresponding
receiver pins.  You cannot use a wire from
one pair and another wire from a different
pair.

Keeping the above principles in mind, we can simplify the diagram for a 568A straight-thru cable by
untwisting  the wires, except the 180° twist in the entire cable, and bending the ends upward. 
Likewise, if we exchange the green and orange pairs in the 568A diagram we will get a simplified
diagram for a 568B straight-thru cable.  If we cross the green and orange pairs in the 568A diagram
we will arrive at a simplified diagram for a crossover cable.  All three are shown below.