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com
 

Automation in 

Apparel Industry 

Image source: www.collegefashion.net 

By: Jaideep Singh

& Yogesh Prasad

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Automation in Apparel Industry

By: Jaideep Singh, Yogesh Prasad

Abstract

Globalization of industries is a defining trend of our time. The textile and apparel industry, in particular, is
one of the most globalizing industries in today’s world. The apparel manufacturers are faced with the
challenges of designing fashionable garments with multiple styles in short runs, managing stock levels,
improving delivery speeds, achieving flexibility and versatility and ensuring consistent quality. They also
have to produce clothing cost effectively for a market which is supplied largely from countries with very
low wage rates. Most of the works in industries are carried manually but to sharpen the competitive edge
the industry has to necessarily invest in automation to meet the global standards. It is not only labour
problem due to which one should go for automatic machines but also the quality and consistency factor.
The main objective of automation is to broadly focus upon reducing manpower and costs, achieving better
and consistent quality and increasing productivity. Besides these broad advantages, there are many more
benefits of using automated machines such as energy saving, less spare parts, less maintenance cost, less
space requirement in production line, reduced handling, better WIP control, reduced operator stress and
fatigue, easy production accountability, reduced alteration etc.

Keywords: flexibility, consistent quality, increasing productivity, WIP control, operator stress and fatigue,
production accountability, alteration

1. Introduction

Automation is the use of control systems such as computers to control the industrial machinery and
processes replacing human operators. Whereas mechanisation provides human operators with machineries
to assist them with the physical requirements of work, automation greatly reduces the need for human
sensory and mental requirement as well.

Today’s world is known as an era of technical evolution, where most of the manual works are being
replaced by automated and semi-automated machines. These machines have improved the quality of the
product and efficiency of the plant. When upgrading the technology, one should be aware of constraints
that would subsequently be faced in the entire production system. In fact to achieve the benefits of
automation, it is essential to integrate the automatic machines with the production layout. It has been found
that the level of automation in apparel manufacturing has been directly related to the cost of labour. In
countries where labour costs are very low, the tendency has been not to invest in automation. In the sewing
section there are many machine attachments and semi-automated sewing systems that are not being used in
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lower wage countries but ignoring it will assure that one will fall being in the long run of global
competition. It is always a matter of time before wage rates increase and the need to improve efficiency
through automation. The concept of highly capital intensive, fully robotized manufacturing centres in
favour of the implementation of more flexible, modular team based approaches to the organization and use
of automated technologies. They also point to a future based on more customized, decentralized garment
styling in making up facilities closer to the point of eventual sale to the customers.

This report identifies the existing and forthcoming advances in the basic manufacturing technologies of
fabric preparation, cutting, fusing, sewing, pressing, garment dyeing and printing. We have discussed the
needs of automation in today’s world. We have also mentioned the benefits out of these automated
systems. We have compared between an automated and conventional systems on several factors which
gives an idea about the benefits of automation. We have also discussed in brief the challenges faced while
implementing the automated systems in apparel industry. This report basically overviews the automated
systems available in apparel industry and their benefits.

2. Objectives
a. To justify the need of automation
b. To identify the available automation systems
c. To develop a concept for automated garment manufacturing
d. To identify where automation can be most feasible
e. To figure out the challenges faced during automation

3. Need of automation in apparel industry

Some of the major factors which justify the needs of automation in apparel industry have been listed
below. These following points depict the current scenario in apparel sector:

a. Complexity in design: Nowadays buyers are ordering garments with very complex design as the
demand of market has changed (especially the US market). The customers are looking for garments
which have complicated and elaborate design both in terms of trims and accessories and the
workmanship.
b. Multiple styles in short runs: The retails stores have to keep changing their stocks too quickly to
cope up with the changing customer demands. So buyers are giving orders which are less in quantity
and more in variety.
c. Managing stock level: Managing the stock is also one major issue as it also incurs cost to the
company. Moreover it is always risky to keep the finished goods in the warehouse and companies
try to sell it as soon as possible.
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d. Shrinking lead time: Nowadays buyers are asking for less lead time. As the fashion cycles are
becoming smaller and smaller, different styles are introduced quickly. To adopt with the market and
to satisfy the changing customers’ needs, the buyers have to keep the lead time less. So the
manufacturing lead time has also to be reduced.
e. Increased cost of labor: Cost of labour has increased drastically. Some companies are even
providing hostel facilities to keep the workers from leaving the company. This is adding them extra
cost. Labour scarcity has been the major problem that the apparel sector is facing right now.
f. Problem of absenteeism: The apparel industry is facing heavy absenteeism problem. Due to this
problem, the complete planning becomes useless. Employing another labour in place of absent
labour decreases the quality level.
g. Demand for consistent quality: Quality consistency is one of the major demands by the buyers. The
customers have become more quality conscious. They won’t just buy a garment for functional use
but they will also analyze each quality parameter before buying it.
h. Hike in real estate value: Nowadays setting up an industry is not easy as land cost has increased in
heaps and bounds. It is still rising. So a means of minimizing land requirement will surely help this
industry and more individuals can enter into this venture.
i. Buyer’s preference for complete solution provider: Nowadays buyers are looking for
manufacturers who can provide complete solution to them. For example, buyers will prefer a
manufacturer who can produce trousers, shirts, kidswear etc. the manufacturing units who can
provide all of these products will be a preferred by a buyer.
j. Cost realization only in production floor: As raw materials prices are same for all the
manufacturers, the main area where the manufacturer can play with the cost is the production floor.
Difference in cost of garment produced by different companies is mainly due to the different
production processes and methods being followed there.

4. Advantages of automation in apparel industry

We have discussed the present scenario of the apparel industry; we will here discuss the different
advantages of automation in apparel industry.

Major advantages

Reduced manpower
Reduced cost
Better and consistent quality
Increased productivity
Increased flexibility
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Reduced lead time

Other advantages

Reduced handling

Better WIP control

Reduced skill requirement

Facilitate production management

Less space requirement in production line

Elimination of helpers

Reduced power consumption

Reduced operator stress and fatigue

Easy production accountability

Elimination of extra preparation work

Reduced alteration

Less maintenance cost

5. Main solution providers for automation in garment industry

Some of the manufacturers of automated machines and softwares are mentioned below:

Vendors A brief introduction

Durkopp Adler Germany based company which produces specialised sewing machines
VI.BE.MAC Italy based company which makes specialised sewing machines for casual
trousers and jeans
Assyst Bullmer US based company which provides solutions for Product Data and Lifecycle
Management (PDM/PLM), Pattern Design(CAD), Automated Pattern
Design(Smart Pattern), Marker making and plotting, Automatic Material
Handling and Spreading, Cutting
Gerber Technology It’s a US based company which provides the solutions for Product Lifecycle
Management, Product Development Software (Pattern Design and Grading,
Marker Making, Made to Measure, 3 D visualisation, Conceptual Design),
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Plotting, Manufacturing solutions (Spreading, Cut parts Identification and
Cutting)
Lectra Headquartered in France, Lectra gives solutions for Product Lifecycle
Management (Lectra Fashion PLM), Fashion Design Solution(Kaledo), Fashion
Product Engineering, Cutting Solutions (Vector), Data Management
Module(Romans cad)
Tukatech Headquartered in Los Angeles, it specialises in Digital Pattern Making, 3D
Apparel Virtual Prototyping, Pattern Making & Grading, Marker Planning,
Apparel PDM/PLM/ERP/Techpack Application, Apparel Design, Development
and Production Consulting
MACPI Italy based company which specialises in Fusing Equipments, Boilers, Vacuum
units, Pressing & Ironing, Spots Removals etc.

6. A concept for complete automation of apparel industry

Dotted lines- Information flow, Continuous lines- Material flow

The above diagram shows the flow of information and flow in a completely automated system.

a. The buyer gives the techpack and/or sample to the company merchandiser. Then the merchandiser
passes the relevant information to four departments i.e. Sampling, CAD, Sourcing and Industrial
Engineering departments.
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b. The data given by the merchandiser will be fed the system in CAD department and pattern will be
made.
c. Information will flow to sampling for checking the sample fit in eFIT Simulator. This will not only
eliminate the need of mannequin to check the fit. The eFIT simulator will check the fit of the fabric
and in case of any discrepancies it will highlight the problem area in the pattern. Information will be
passed back to the CAD department.
d. CAD department will work out based on the feedback given by the Sampling department. Then
again it will go to Sampling department until approval. Buyer approval will take place on line.
There will be no fit samples made. All fit samples will be seen and evaluated in efit simulator only.
e. The introduction of EFIT Simulator can reduce the sampling time period from 30 days to nearly 6-7
days. [1]
f. At the same time, sourcing team will work out on the sourcing of the fabrics, trims and accessories
using dynamically operating networks.
g. The IE department will work out the operations. The automatic systems can be used to calculate the
operations time using GSD.
h. After this, warehouse receives the raw materials.
i. For fabric inspection, there will be an automatic fabric inspection machine which can inspect at a
speed of 120m/min.[2]
j. In cutting, sewing, finishing and packaging also there are many automated solutions which are
mentioned in later sections.

7. Different automated systems available for different departments

a. Sampling
eFIT simulator by Tuka: It is a digital sample making system. It analyses the fit and look of the
garment in a simulated sample dummy. It reduces approval time and enhances communication.
b. CAD
Smart Pattern by Assyst Bullmer: It automates teh repetitive and complicated pattern making steps.
It also standardizes pattern making and reduces pattern development time.
Automarker.com by Assyst bullmer: It is an automated marker making and nesting software. It
reduces labour cost and gives better fabric utilisation. It has a quicker turnaround time.
Accusan by Gerber Technology: It is a high-speed digitizing system by Gerber Technology. It gives
higher level of accuracy over manual digitizing. It automatically detects notches, grain lines,
internal lines and drill holes.
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c. Warehouse
Uster fabricscan: It is an automatic fabric machine manufactured by Uster. It identifies defects
automatically and provides picture. It can inspect at a speed of 120m/min in comparison to 30m/min
manually. It also improves defect detection efficiency.
d. Cutting
Gerber Cutter Z7: designed to meet the modern industry’s demands, it has the characteristics like:
complex geometrics, small runs, lower cost of run
Vector by Lectra: Lectra provides wonderful solutions for cutting called as Vector. It is versatile,
user friendly and flexible.
e. Sewing
Process automation:
IT based sewing room for real time data management: This system was developed and implemented
by ATIRA (Ahmadabad’s Textile Industry’s Research Association). The system consists of several
single board microcomputers and a host computer. Each sewing machine has one single board
microcomputer. Each microcomputer is connected to the host computer through twisted pair wire.
Microcomputers collect data like machine on time, piece-handling time, piece stitching time, bundle
entry and exit time etc. From each station, stores data in memory and on demand from host
computer, it offloads the stored data to the host computer. It analyses the data and generates various
reports like production, material on shop=floor location of each piece, efficiency of operator, status
of job on hand etc. These reports provide valuable and important information to the managers,
supervisors and customers at any time. It also provides cost effective logistics of material movement
to meet a planned schedule. It also builds up the data bank for generating norms for standard
stitching time of various processes. [3]

Equipments automation:

Automatic collar marking (model-3006) by MAICA: It marks collar pieces where point perforation is
not possible. It is also equipped with piece discharger and is easily adjustable for size marking.

Automatic collar turning and point shearing (model-MTP) by MAICA: This is a collar turning and
point shearing device for shirts operating electro-pneumatically. Shearing angle can be adjusted as
per desired position without having to replace dies or punches.

Buttonholing indexer (model- ACF-172-1790) by JUKI: In this buttonholing indexer machines, 20

patterns can be input at a time. Number of buttonholes can be between 1 to 20. It has a high speed of
4200 rpm with 25 mm stitch length (lockstitch).
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Automatic fly piece unit (model- 1010 V41/VF1) by VI.BE.MAC: Driven by a stepping motor, it
carries out J seams on the front fly panel of jeans and casual trousers. Being programmable, it
permits the creation of customised stitching with maximum freedom of style allowing for
identification of a particular brand by the front view.

Front pocket hemming unit (model-222 CG 104) by VI.BE.MAC: This is used for hemming front
trouser pockets while simultaneously applying reinforcement tape. It gives high quality stitching
finish. We don’t need to cut the excess tape as it is cut automatically.

Fully automated pocket setter unit (model-2516 V4/V2) by VI.BE.MAC: In this machine, once the
operator places the pocket into the loader of the creasing unit, the pocket is folded automatically.
Once pocket comes out folded, the loader device grabs the pocket and sets it in the loader device.

Trouser button hemming unit (model-3022 BHE) by VI.BE.MAC: This unique unit makes it possible
to change from light to heavy fabrics without any alteration to mechanical components or electronic
adjustments. It is easy to switch between lockstitch and chainstitch. It is a special innovative
hemming device that can sew the hem both on the front and on the reverse sides.

Automatic waistband application unit (model-3022 WB 406) by VI.BE.MAC: This machine

automatically cuts and skips stitches at the two ends of the required measurement. There is no need
to mark the fabric, so helper is not required. It also facilitates easy correct label positioning.

Automatic programmable loop application unit (model-3650 EV8) by VI.BE.MAC: It is an

automatic loop attaching machine which reduces the noise level, sucks up teh scraps and increases
the space available to the operator. It has a new touch screen panel.

Automatic front placket machine (model-UZ-PL-33) by FOCUS: It is an automatic front placket

machine which has a programmable control with touch screen monitor. It also has a thread cut
detecting sensor and laser marking for accurate sewing.

f. Finishing
Cosmos Rotor Cabinet: It is a form finisher, which can be used for pants and topper and jackets. In
form finishing, pressing is done on the garment after fitting it on the dummy. By this form finisher,
garment retains perfect shape after pressing as pressing is done putting the garment of the dummy.
MACPI 310: It is also equipment for form pressing which can be used for jackets, coats, raincoats
etc. It has automatic timed cycle for all the pressing steps.
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VEIT 8381 Multiform Finisher: It is used for finishing all kinds of outerwear. It has forms with
shoulder width and breadth adjustment. Also it facilitates adjustment of tensioning movements.

g. Packaging
ATS 101 fully automated garment bagging: This is an automatic bagging system. It has automatic
and fixed length bag sensing. Different programs can be set for different styles. It also has touch pad
system for operator friendliness.
Hanging garment installations in automated warehouse (METALSISTEM): It is an overhead storage
of hung garment which brings the garment directly to the operators’ work station. It also facilitates
automatic garment search. It is well suited for storage capacity within 10000 garments.

h. Material handling
ETON 5000 SYNCHRO: This is an overhead conveyor system used in sewing room. It eliminates
the manpower involvement in material handling. It also helps in keep real time track of production
and WIP.
GARTNER SYSTEMS: It provides a conveyor solution over the entire supply chain within the
factory from the moment the fabric comes in, to the final warehousing and dispatch. It offers
manual, semi-automated and fully automized solutions using RFID and bar code technologies to the
industry. Apart from this, automatic coupling of trolleys and marshalling of trolley are also possible.
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8. Results and discussion

a. Comparison of conventional and automated system

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a. Case study of Zipper Attachment- Comparison of Conventional Method and Automated Method in
terms of SAM [4]
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b. Areas where automation will be most profitable

As fabric is a limp material, so handling is a major issue in the production process. The fabric should
neither be too stiff nor too soft for being handled by an automated system. Other than this, those garments
which have little less complications (small design parts like pockets, darts, loops etc) are well suited for
automated machines as they can be fully operated only by little or more human intervention. The following
fabrics are generally suitable for automation:

Basic 5 pocket denim jeans

Dress shirts

Formal trousers

Suits

Home furnishings
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9. Challenges while implementing automation
a. Fabric handling problem
Limp nature of fabric: Due to the limp nature of fabric, it is difficult to be handled by machine
alone. Human handling is essential for production process. That is why production floor can’t be
hundred percent automated.
b. Cost factor
Cost and ROI: Due to high initial cost and longer period for Return On Investment, it is not feasible
for small and medium scale companies to implement automation.
Lack of automated machine manufacturers in India: Due to lack of automated machine
manufacturers in the country, the prices of machines become high due to custom duties.
Higher cost of machineries: Due to reluctance for change in the mindset of apparel manufacturers,
there has been less demand for automated machinery; hence manufacturers fail to achieve
economies of scale. As a result of this, the cost of machine goes higher.
c. Psychological factors
Mindset and adaptability: People who are working for so long in the convention manufacturing
units following old manual methods are reluctant to change. One of the major factors is the
ambiguity in their minds regarding the new system and second is the insecurity of future prospects.
Boredom of work: A person who works in the conventional way, if shifted to a computer monitor,
he finds the job very boring and uninteresting. He may feel cut off from the people and it will lead
to lack of interest and hence may result in less productivity.

d. Less investment in Research and Development

There has been very less focus in our country towards Research and Development in the area of
automation. This has led to less improvement in this field. Hence prices of machineries are also
high, most of which are imported from other countries.

10. Conclusion

After observing the above facts and figures, we can conclude the following points:

a. The changing scenario in the apparel industry has made it clear that automation is the key to success
in long term perspective.
b. As technology is improving at faster rate and labour cost increasing at the same rate, it is right to say
that replacing labour with automated systems is a smart move to survive in long race of global
competition.
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c. If layout is planned properly, then automation will lead to saving of the space required. The space
acquired by the conventional system can accommodate more manufacturing facility. The new
manufacturing facilities will require much less space. Hence the unemployment created due to
automation will be compensated by the new companies coming up.
d. By automation, the industry will become knowledge-driven not labour driven. Obviously it will add
to the productivity of the firm.
e. Before implementing the automation, some factors like size of the organisation, layout feasibility
and manpower aspects should be considered.
f. As ROI period is long and initial investment is high, it is good for small and medium firms to
implement automation module-wise and not full at once.

11. Acknowledgement

The authors are thankful to the Director of NIFT, Bangalore for her permission for this paper presentation
at Anna University. We also thank Mr. Vasant R. Kothari & Mr. C. Rayan, NIFT Bangalore for their
guidance throughout the project. We are grateful to Mr. Raghavendra of Mehala, Bangalore and Mr.
Rakesh Ranjan, Senior Consultant, Technopak, Bangalore for their help in gathering knowledge about
different automation systems available in the apparel industry. Our heartfelt gratitude goes to the Festido
team, Anna University for giving us a chance to present our paper.

12. References

[1] www.tukatech.com/products/efit

[2] www.fiber2fashion.com/automatic fabric inspection by Vasant Kothari/ published on Sept 21,2010-10-

[3] Paper Presentation on-IT Based Sewing Room Data for Improved Performance of SME’s in Garment
Sector-by C S Vora, M G Solanki, P B Jhala, Pavan Godiwala and Verghese Paul

[4] Stitch World/ July 2009/ p.n. 43

13. Bibliography

• www.tukatech.com

• www.lectra.com

• www.fibre2fashion.com

• www.assyst-us.com

• www.veit.de
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• www.vibemac.com

• www.duerkopp-adler.com

• www.gerbertechnology.com

• www.macpi.com

• www.maica.com

• Stitch World- issues of July 2009, Feb 2009, June 2009, Jan 2010, Feb 2010, May 2010, July 2010

The authors have completed their Bachelors in Fashion Technology, Apparel Production from National
Institute of Fashion Technology. Yogesh is currently working at Textile Sourcing and Services Pvt. Ltd.,
Bangalore as Technical and Quality Officer and Jaideep Singh works at Lifestyle, Bangalore as Assistant
Concept Manager for Men’s Apparel Division at Oasis Mall, Bangalore