1465428615tunisia PDF

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TUNISIA
T Jelma
5 SBEÏTLA
875
photographs
Asker
SIDI
BOUZID 4
45
detailed maps
25
illustrations
C125
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TUNISIA
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TUNISIA
Main Contributors Elżbieta and Andrzej Lisowscy
Contents
How to Use
this Guide 6
Produced By Wydawnictwo Wiedza I Życie, Warsaw
Senior Graphic Designer Paweł Pasternak
Editors Robert G. Pasieczny,
Joanna Egert-Romanowska, Agnieszka Majle
Authors Andrzej And Elżbieta Lisowscy
Graphic Design Paweł Kamiński, Piotr Kiedrowski
Cartographers Magdalena Polak, Olaf Rodowald
Photographers Artur Pawłowski,
Nicolas Fauque, Krzysztof Kur
Illustrators Bohdan Wróblewski,
Michał Burkiewicz, Paweł Marczak
Contributors Madar Sc
And Sabina Kocieszczenko
For Dorling Kindersley

Translator Magda Hannay A Nabeul vase, decorated with flowers and
Editor Matthew Tanner geometric patterns (see pp118–9)
Senior DTP Designer Jason Little
Production Controller Rita Sinha
Printed and bound in China Introducing

First American Edition, 2005 Tunisia
15 16 17 18 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Discovering Tunisia 10
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Putting Tunisia
Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2011, 2015
on the Map 16
Copyright 2005, 2015 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, A Portrait of Tunisia 18
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a
retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of Tunisia Through
both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
the Year 42
Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
ISSN 1542-1554 The History of Tunisia 48

ISBN 978-1-4654-2861-5
Front cover image: A section of a traditional Ksar in Tataouine
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
At the time of going to press there was major political upheaval in Tunisia.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date as possible,
but due to the rapidly changing situation, some political information may have
since altered. In addition, details such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use
of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee
that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information.
We value the views and suggestions of our readers highly. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
London WC2R 0RL, or email travelguides@dk.com. The fortified village of Ksar Ouled Soltane,
in southern Tunisia (see pp199–201)
A mountain village in the Tunisian desert
Survival Guide
Practical Information 302
Travel Information 312
General Index 320
Acknowledgments 341
Glossary 342
Road Map of Tunisia

Tourist centre in Port el-Kantaoui (see p152) Inside back cover
Tunisia Region Travellers’ Needs

By Region
Where to Stay 248
Tunisia at a Glance 66
Where to Eat and Drink 260
Tunis 68
Shopping in Tunisia 282
Greater Tunis and
Cap Bon Peninsula 94 Entertainment
in Tunisia 290
Sport in Tunisia 294
Activities for Visitors 296 Colourful vegetable stall at Menzel

Temime market (see p115)
Italian-influenced and richly decorated

Tunisian door (see p125)
Northern Tunisia 126
The Sahel 148
Djerba and the

Medenine Area 178
Southern Tunisia 194
Central Tunisia 216 A typical desert oasis

(see pp206–207)
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide will help you to make the most attractions. Information on accommodation,
of your visit to Tunisia. The first section, restaurants, shopping, entertainment and
Introducing Tunisia, locates the country activities can be found in the Travellers’ Needs
geographically and gives an outline of its section, while the Survival Guide provides
history and culture. The following sections practical tips on everything you need to
are devoted to the capital and various regions, know, from money and language to getting
and include the major towns, sights and around and seeking medical care.
70 TUNISIA REGION BY REGION TUNIS 71 Tunis

Tunis Town Centre Sights at a Glance
Two worlds are side by side in the centre of

Tunis. On the one hand, there is the historic
Areas, Streets and Squares
6 Place du Gouvernement
t Dar ben Abdallah
y Tourbet el-Bey
The country’s capital has its own
w Rue Jemaa Zitouna i Dar Hussein
district, almost unchanged since medieval
times, on the other, a modern metropolis. The
western area of the centre is occupied by the
e Bab el-Bahr
a Rue du Pasha
s Rue de la Hafsia
o Dar el-Haddad
d Dar Lasram
g Hôtel Majestic
section. All the sights are located
medina, full of ancient palaces, mosques, j Théâtre Municipal
medersas and souks. The eastern part
comprises the Ville Nouvelle with the National Palm trees and fountain for washing, in the arcaded
k Avenue Habib Bourguiba
z Belvedere Park
Markets
c Bardo Museum pp92–3
Religious Buildings
and numbered on the area map. The
Theatre, high-rise buildings, Art Deco houses, courtyard of Sidi Mehrez Mosque
cinemas, a railway station and busy
cafés and bars.
D E LO
N DRE
S
PLACE DE LA
RÉPUBLIQUE
République 3 Souk et-Trouk
7 The Great Souk
0 Souk el-Attarine
1 The Great Mosque (Zitouna
Mosque) pp74–5
2 The Three Medersas
main streets, post offices, hospitals
R
NUE l Main Market 4 Sidi Youssef Mosque

AV E
EU
and tourist information offices are

H AO U A N E
UE ALI BEL JARDIN 8 Hammouda Pasha Mosque
AM
AV E N Museums and Historic Buildings

THAMEUR u Medersa Mouradia
TH
PLACE BAB
SOUIKA
5 Dar el-Bey p Kasbah Mosque
AVE
RU
BIB
NTES
E S
9 Tourbet of Aziza Othmana

A
f Sidi Mehrez Mosque

DRA
DHI
GAN
IK
NUE
also shown.
ID
HA
RUE
R O T E S TA
q National Library
RU
RU
I B
h Cathedral
U
E A
B EL-KHA
RU OU
SO
E RU
E D
AV
A
KH TE
SI LA AR
E B
IAN
D
r Dar Othman x Jellaz Cemetery
E
B P
E S
ES
I A
BA
EN
AV
M RU
RI
B
RUE DES P
INE
SA
EH
TI
LEN
DE
E RUE
AS
R
LI
UE
RU
RUE BA
SO
ON
RUE
NE
EZ
Ibn
-M
S
UI
JE
EL
Rachiq
DE M
Getting Around
K
E
A
RU
N
RU
AR
SI A
E
The most convenient way of

J
U
SEIL
PARI
RU
Habib Thameur RÈ
D
I
exploring Tunis is on foot.

E
S
RUE
D
ES
LE
A
IM
RUE KAMEL
I
A
UT
HD
AH LTA
SR
RUE MA
CH
NO
I IBR DES
R DE HA The buses and trams can be
DU C
BOU
S
IDEK
O
GLA PA C
AR
SID UE AS
U
E CI R NAH
GH
ÈR
UE
R
RU E RUE crowded, but are useful for

RU
E
AIR
R UE
DI
TGM Train Station

RU
S
E
ATTATU
MON
SI
DU
500 metres (550 yards) reaching sites further out,

RUE D’ALGER
RS
E
SABR DU
NEU
E
E
RU TA N
such as the Bardo Museum.
T RI BU NAL
DES
RU
RK
RUE
IBA
GI SLIM
E
RGU The TGM train’s main station

SID
BOU IBA
Sights at a Glance lists the

ALI
I KA
RGU
MMED
IB
HAB is at the end of Avenue
SO
RUE MOHA
BOU
RUE
DO
UE
UK
AV EN IB
HAB Habib Bourguiba and links
US
N
EL
KOU UE TAJ
AV E N
HA
AV E N
AZIZ
L'AG the centre of Tunis to the
G
RUE ZAR
DETU
MMED
RA
E
D E LT MOHA
FRANC
RUE
RUE DU
sights by category.
N
RUE
BO
E
RU
A V. D
E VIE
suburbs. See pp318–19 for
A
RUE
OSLA
DE YOUG
DE G
U
UE
RQU
RUE
more details.
LE
18 JANVIE
IBN KHAL
RUE
RUE SAIDA PLACE DE LA BAKR

RUE
RUE
AH
RÈ
VA
JAR SB VICTOIRE ABOU

A
LAH KA SAID
RUE
CE
JO
CHA
IE
BIR
R
RU
DE H
RD
LA AGN
E
U
RUE
EL OUZA
Farhat
RUE DE LA C
R 1952
LEM
LA
E SID
E D’AL
JAM
DOUN
DE
RLES
RUE HED Hached

D
BA
OL
HAC
RU
E AT
I EL
U
E
LAN
FARH
B
R
DE G
UE
SI
EL A
SOUK
AVEN
D
MO
CART
BE
DE
I
BE
UI
OMMISSION
AU
RJA
E J AO
N
RU
T B
N
HED
AT HAC DAN
AT
LLE
A
BD
NI
MAN
D
RO
OM
UE FARH DU C
ES
HAG
E
RUE
U
UK IN AVEN
ERM
TA
PLACE DE
S
SOTTAR BARCELONE
M
SO
-A
IS
UK
EL Place de Key
E
AVEN
NE
SO
PAG
ASSE
EL
Barcelone
UQ
UK D’ES
RU
UK
-B
SO RO RUE
E
PLACE DE
EY
-T
EL
Major sight
SID
UE DE
LA EL
BEN ZIAD
BL
I
RU
KASBAH
R
Train
AT
PLACE
E EL-
FA ERR
E MONGI
Station Other sight
EF LET
LA GARE
BALI
-L NG
MA
EL D’A
K RUE Bus Station
OU
KTA
RU
S
1km (1.6 miles)
RU
URDO
E
RU
R
TOU
A locator map shows the

RU
E S
E E
E D
SI E
RBE
ESSO
O RUS
B
ID
U DE
Tunis and its Environs
E
RUE
I B
T EL
SA
LE H
JA
O
SIDI
VA I EK
N
U M
R CH
DA
-B
B ROC
RD CA
ACEM
ZIR
A MA
EY
area of the Street-by-Street

E EL-
LO
EL DU
RUE
EN
RU RUE
US
E
DIL
U
BA
SIDI K
R
RU
HE
E
C
B M
RI
DE
RU
DU
S
RUE
E
E
TE
RU
AB
RUE
EN
IN
map in red.
TU
IE
BA
RI
ER
ARA
ER
A P7
ENN
S
DES
KI
I EL-B
G C30
L
AT SID
SAN
RUE
’A
EN JUG
M ES
RU
D
PER
EL
E
A1
E
E
0 metres 200
BE
RU
E
RU
E D
P5
N
AY
RU
0 yards 200
ED
0 kilometres 2
Fragment of a mosaic from the AV E N U E B A B J E D I D 0 miles 2
Bardo Museum
For hotels and restaurants see pp252–3 and pp266–8 72 T U N I S I A R E G I O N For
B Ykeys
R EtoGsymbols
I O N see back flap TUNIS 73
Street-by-Street: The Medina 8 Hammouda

Pasha Mosque
The main feature of
Tunis’s ancient medina is classed by UNESCO 7 The Great Souk
this mosque (1665) is
1
The animated
Town Map For easy as a World Heritage Site. Bustling with life
for over one thousand years, it is full of
narrow alleys, mosques, Oriental markets
market has kept
much of its
traditional
the octagonal minaret,
which is built in the
Turkish style. It is one
of the most beautiful
and unexpected courtyards. It also has atmosphere and
reference the major many mysterious and colourful doorways

beyond which are ancient palaces and
was used for
scenes in the film
The English Patient.
mosques in Tunis.
Locator Map
See Tunis map pp70–71
wealthy homes. The medina is centred
sights are numbered on an axis formed by the Great Mosque

and its many surrounding souks.
is the tomb of Aziza – daughter
of Othman, a bey of Tunis.
and located on the

HIJA
town map.
BLAG
ENT AH
EM SB
ERN KA
UV A
GO E L
R
SOUK
DU E D
U
6 Place du CE RU
E
Gouvernement PLA
SI
q National Library
is the town’s
D
The National Library contains

main square. It
I
over two million volumes. It is

SO
can be used as 
IN
EN
AR located at the heart of

the starting point TT
UK
L A the medina, in the

A
for exploring K A former military

R
SU
EL
the medina.
O
E barracks built by
RIN
U
B
A
TT Hammouda Pasha.
S
A
EL
EY
UK A
5 Dar el-Bey is the former
SO UN
TO
beys’ palace and is now ZI
A
the prime minister’s office. A MA
E J
RU
RUE SIDI BEN ZIAD
UK
A suggested route for a walk is 4 Sidi Youssef Mosque

This distinctive mosque
has the oldest Ottoman- SO UK
S
T
ET TU
UK AL
RO K
R
RU
marked with a red dotted line. style minaret in the E

0 Souk el Attarine
D
medina (1616) and has traded in perfumes,

ES
SO
is crowned with a incense, henna, candles

LI
balustrade and a and herbs since the

UK
BRAIRES
wooden roof. 13th century.

EL
B
0 metres 50
ER
0 yards 50
KA
3 . Souk et-Trouk 1 . The Great

76 TUNISIA REGION BY REGION TUNIS 77 Built in 1630 by Sidi Youssef, Mosque
this is one of the medina’s most 2 . The Three Medersas This is the largest
Key colourful rows of shops offering These three Muslim schools mosque in Tunis.
Suggested route
carpets, clothes and souvenirs. comprise the Medersa of Its construction
2 The Three 4 Sidi Youssef Mosque and further, to the medina (it is just a short One shop has a terrace that the Palm Tree, the Bachia was begun in
Tourbet el-Bey and Dar ben distance from the Great Mosque). provides a view of the medina. and the Slimania. the 8th century.
Medersas Mosque Abdallah in the south of the Place du Gouvernement is
Rue des Libraires 11, 19 & Rue de la Rue Sidi ben Ziad. For hotels and restaurants see pp252–3 and pp266–8
medina. At the start of the situated in what would once
Medersa 13. route there is a detailed map have been the western limit
This building is located on the with the main sights and of the medina. It is flanked on
The Great Mosque is adjoined first floor above the shops, other points of interest clearly the west by the Boulevard
by a group of three medersas. which provided Muslim marked on it. Bab Benat (Tunis’s local
Built by the Husaynids as mosques with a revenue during The palace was built as a government building stands
residential Islamic schools in the the Turkish era. One of the most guest house by a Husaynid on the opposite side of the
18th century, each of them has interesting Ottoman sacred monarch in 1795, on the ruins avenue), and on the east and
2
a similar layout, with a courtyard buildings, the mosque has the of a royal residence dating north by the Government
flanked on three sides by cells,
which are used by students
studying the Koran. The fourth
oldest Turkish minaret in the
medina (1616). The octagonal
minaret is set on a square base
from the Muradid period. It
was extensively remodelled in
1876 when it was used by the
Secretariat and the Ministry
of Religious Affairs.
The Dar el-Bey (see opposite)
Street-by-Street Map This
side of the medersas’ courtyards
adjoin the mosque.
The oldest of them is the
Medersa of the Palm Tree
The cosy interior of a carpet shop in Souk
et-Trouk
and is typical of Ottoman
architecture. Most of the 48
columns (eight rows of six
columns) in the prayer hall
bey of Tunis as a place to
receive important visitors. It
was here that he received
many heads of state from
stands at its southern end
on the side of the Sidi Youssef
Mosque. Today it houses
the offices of the Tunisian
shows the location of the main
(1714). Its name derives from
the palm tree that stands at
the centre of the courtyard
surrounded by arcaded galleries.
3 Souk et-Trouk
This 17th-century Turkish market
feature antique capitals and
are North African in design.
Adjacent to the mosque is the
mausoleum of its founder – Sidi
Germany, England, France and
the Ottoman Empire.
The bey himself lived
outside Tunis in the Bardo 7
prime minister.
The Great Souk

museums and sights within the
The arcades, with their horseshoe
arches, have columns with
richly ornamented capitals. The
is situated between Souk
el-Attarine (the scent market)
and Souk el-Berka (formerly
Youssef – which has a pyramid
roof of green tiles. The complex
is completed by the medersa,
area at this time. Prior to that,
until the Husaynid period
(18th century), the sultan’s
The medina in Tunis has
more than 20 souks. The major
Strolling along a busy alley in one
of the medina’s souks
town centre, including
Medersa of the Palm Tree now the site of the old slave market). which was built in 1622. main residence was the ones are adjacent to the Great
houses the headquarters of the
organization concerned with
Koranic law.
It contains the north gateway to
the Great Mosque and also Au
Palais d’Orient – one of Tunis’s
nearby kasbah. The change
was partly brought about by
the fashion for building
Mosque and together form
one vast, colourful, animated
marketplace. Two terms, both
as being the centre of social
life. Arab souks, as opposed to
European markets, were never
mosques and historic buildings.
Bachia, the second in the best-known carpet shops and summer residences that meaning “market”, compete places of residence for the
group, was built in 1752 by Ali viewing points. Here, visitors will prevailed at the beginning of with each other in the Muslim merchants. The Great Mosque
Pasha. Standing next to the also find Café M’Rabet, with its the 19th century. world: the bazaar (from the was always the seat of learning
entrance is a small fountain with miniature garden (a kind of Persian) and the souk (from and faith, while the souks
miniature pools that are always verandah), and a more the Arabic). For centuries a constituted the town’s
6 Place du
full of water. The adjacent tourbet expensive restaurant on the first souk had a distinct, cohesive economic centre. Souks may
(mausoleum) houses the Cultural floor (overlooking a section of Gouvernement character based on the seem chaotic but actually
Society. The third medersa, the Great Mosque). This is the traditions of the eastern and have a strict hierarchy. The
Slimania, also owes its existence place to come to enjoy some This busy square is full of Mediterranean nations, and immediate vicinity of the Great
to Ali Pasha, who built it in traditional Tunisian music, a government buildings, foun- featured clearly identified Mosque was reserved for the
memory of his son Suleyman cup of tea and, for those that tains, palm trees and flowers. places for various types of upmarket bazaars selling
who had been murdered by want it, a puff of tobacco It is also a popular meeting goods. From the beginning, articles such as religious
his younger brother. through a chicha (hookah). Sidi Youssef Mosque with its place for young people and this was a venue for trading books, perfumes, carpets and
17th-century minaret serves as a useful starting point in goods and conducting jewellery. In Muslim countries,
for expeditions into the heart of financial transactions, as well the market was, and continues
to be, an important element
5 Dar el-Bey of Islamic life. The souk is a
Place du Gouvernement. place where people come to
Closed to visitors. shop, trade and meet friends.
According to Muslim tradition,
3 Detailed Information All the

The former seat of the bey trading is the sweetest
rulers, and later of the French occupation. The medieval Arab
Protectorate administration, scholar al-Ghazali, for instance,
major sights in Tunis have a

this is now the prime minister’s considered commerce as a
office. Dar el-Bey, with its form of preparation for the
imposing 18th- and 19th- rewards of the next world.
century façade, is the most Haggling is a strictly scripted
important building in Tunis’s
Place du Gouvernement.
Next to the west wing of the
government’s seat (in Rue Sidi
performance: both parties must
end up believing that they
have struck a good bargain.
Any customer who engages in
separate entry that includes
Arcaded courtyard in the Medersa of the Palm Tree
ben Ziad) is the start of a
marked walking route that
leads towards the Great Fountain in Place du Gouvernement
a long bargaining process
should not pull out of the deal
at the end (see p283).
details of addresses, opening
For hotels and restaurants see pp252–3 and pp266–8
hours and any admission charges.
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
TUNISIA REGION BY REGION 179
DJERBA AND THE

MEDENINE AREA Tunisia Region by Region
The island of Djerba lies at the southern end of the Gulf of Gabès,
5 km (3 miles) from the mainland. It is known for its wonderful
sandy beaches, its warm climate and its picturesque capital of
Houmt Souk. Other attractions include fortified smallholdings
1 Introduction This
section provides a brief
overview of each region,
In this guide Tunisia is divided
(menzels) and Ibadite mosques. Back on the mainland, the area
around Medenine has scenic hills and ancient villages. into six regions, each of which
describing its history,
Were it not for the dogged determination
of its people, Djerba would remain no
trading in fish, olive oil and ceramics.
The advent of Islam in the 7th century
geographical features has its own section. The most
more than a scrap of desert. The was accompanied by the arrival of the
inhabitants of this barren island have
managed to turn into one big garden,
Ibadites, an austere Islamic school of
religious thought and practice that was
and cultural character- important cities, towns and
however, with olive and orange groves hostile to authority. Their descendants
and orchards. There are about 4,000 wells
on the island, and the tourist zone is
still inhabit western parts of the island.
In the 16th century the Malekite school istics as well as its villages, as well as other major
supplied with water by an aqueduct. began to gain popularity and now the
Beautiful whitewashed mosques and
traditional menzels hidden behind high
majority of Djerba’s population is Sunni
Muslim. There is also a small but significant main attractions. attractions, are marked on the
hedges add to Djerba’s charm. Jewish contingent, whose ancestors
According to myth, Odysseus landed
here and nearly lost his crew to the
arrived here some 2,000 years ago. The
El-Ghriba synagogue is still a place of
Regional Map.
amnesia-inducing food of the resident reverence for Jews.
lotus-eaters. From the 4th century BC, Medenine was once an important
Djerba was ruled from Carthage; later stopping point for caravans and is a
on it passed into the hands of the Romans. good base for forays into the villages
The island’s prosperity is derived from scattered among the nearby hills.
128 TUNISIA REGION BY REGION NORTHERN TUNISIA 129
Exploring Northern Tunisia

The northern section of Tunisia is not as popular as the
coast of Sahel and Djerba, yet the region has a great deal
to offer. Those who enjoy hiking or hunting should head
for the Khroumirie Mountains where there are many trails
leading through wooded hills. The beaches around
Getting There
The main airport for the northern
coast is Tunis. Two roads link the
capital with Tabarka: the northern
P7 and the southern P6 from which
drivers must turn north onto the
P17. Bizerte can be reached by the
A1 motorway or P8 highway. The
2 Regional Map The map
shows the main road
network and the overall
Tabarka, Bizerte and Raf Raf are perfect for swimming scenery around Béja, Téboursouk
and relaxing while Lake Ichkeul, used as winter
quarters by many thousands of migrating birds, is an
ornithologist’s paradise. Bulla Regia, to the south, has
and Testour is remarkable, although
the roads are narrow. Access to the
coast in places other than Tabarka
and Bizerte is difficult. An underground villa in Bulla Regia
topography of the
unique underground villas and is one of the most
Wickerwork products for sale in Houmt Souk
archaeologically important Roman towns in the world.
A magnificent mosque in Zarzis, in the Medenine area
La Galite
A ceramic statuette
from Sejnane
region. All sights are
Ras ben Sekka
numbered, and there
CAP BLANC
0 kilometres 15
Nador
BIZERTE is also information on
CAP SERRAT
0 miles 15
Sidi Mechrig
Teskraia
Lake Bizerte
MENZEL
Ras Jebel
El Alia
Raf Raf
Sidi
el-Mekki
public transport.
Les Aiguilles by the Tabarka beach Oued
Sejnane ICHKEUL BOURGUIBA
Cap Negro
NATIONAL PARK Aousja
Ghesala
SEJNANE
Sights at a Glance Mateur
1 Tabarka UTIQUE
3 Khroumirie Mountains B I Z E R T E Othman
4 Chimtou Ras Nefza Ou Key
Rajel ed
5 Bulla Regia pp136–7 TABARKA Jo umine Tunis Motorway
Aïn
6 Béja Ouchtata Major road
7 Testour El Kala Tahent
Other road
8 Sejnane
NS ne
Ti Scenic road
9 Cap Serrat T AI d
UN
e
Tebourba
Ou
0 Ichkeul National Park pp140–41 O Railway

Babouche M
q Menzel Bourguiba International border
w Bizerte
Aïn Draham IE
IR
e Cap Blanc
r Utique
Hammam
Bourguiba
Beni H
RO
U
M
BÉJA
Regional border
Salt lake Colour tabs, listed on the inside
AROU
Metir K Mencher
front cover, makes it easy to

Oued
Tours Zarga Tunis
2 Around Tabarka Fernana Medjez el-Bab
Barrage
ND
Bou
pp132–3 Sidi Salem
JENDOUBA Salem rd a
locate each region.

e
Oued Me d j
TA
B É J A
BULLA REGIA
BA
TESTOUR
RK
Aïn Soltane
A
CHIMTOU Thibar
Jendouba
Trayfa
Ghardimaou
Souk Ahras
Le Kef
Le Kef
The northern shores of Lake Ichkeul

For hotels and restaurants see pp254–5 and pp271–3 158 T U N I S I A R E G I O N B Y R E G IFor
O keys
N to symbols see back flap THE SAHEL 159
4 Monastir begin at the medina. Its most

striking feature is the yellow-
Pasha Mosque in Tunis. This
large structure has undoubtedly
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Monastir was founded by the Phoenicians as a port and is a stone Ali el-Mezeri mosque spoiled the general layout of Practical Information
little way south of Sousse. Julius Caesar camped here before (closed) and the Bourguiba the medina. The building and Road map D3. * 40,000.
Mosque. Towards the sea are its spacious interior (the prayer n ONTT in Monastir: (73) 521
3
the Battle of Thapsus in AD 46 but the town’s main claim to
Regional Information Towns, fame, aside from being a popular resort, is as the birthplace
of ex-president Habib Bourguiba. Bourguiba lived here until
a wide esplanade and the
ribat (see pp160–61). The ribat’s
south gate adjoins the Great
hall can accommodate a
congregation of up to 1,000)
combine many features of
016, ONTT at the airport: (73) 520
894. ( Sat.
Transport
his death in 2000. He is now buried in the cemetery on the Mosque. Stretching before it modern architecture with @£
villages and tourist attractions town’s northern edge. is a wide avenue flanked by
administration buildings. The
Bourguiba Mausoleum is a little
the requirements laid upon
traditional Islamic buildings.
Corniche). Towards the sea and
are listed in numerical order, Exploring Monastir

Monastir is a university town
and provincial capital and
stands on a small rugged
further to the west. The Métro
Sahel station, in the medina’s
western section, has frequent
services to the airport, Sousse,
Great Mosque, standing next to the ribat
U Great Mosque
E Museum of
Traditional Costume
Rue de l’Indépendance. Tel (73) 227
256 or 472 045. Open 8am–1pm &
the ribat there is a well-stocked
Handicraft Centre (Artisanat)
that sells a good range of
Tunisian souvenirs. The items
corresponding with the headland in the Gulf of

Hammamet. It is also a major
player in the Tunisian tourist
Tunis and Gabès.
P Habib Bourguiba
Route de la Corniche.
The Great Mosque stands
next to the ribat, and was
3–6m daily. &
This little museum, situated not
far from the tourist office, has a
sold here carry the government
certificate of authenticity
and are generally of a
industry and large hotel com- Mausoleum built in the 9th century and handful of rooms containing reasonable quality.
Regional Map. Each entry plexes and souvenir shops are

everywhere. The signs of Habib
Bourguiba’s presence here
Open 8am–3pm daily.
This marble mausoleum
with its gilt cupola stands to
further extended during the
Zirid dynasty (972–1152). Its
courtyard is flanked by arcades
folk costumes from virtually
every region of
Tunisia. Particularly
The square is flanked by
government
buildings; the
are also commonplace and the north of the ribat, and resting on columns with interesting is the congress hall and
contains information on include a statue of Bourguiba

as a schoolboy, streets named
after members of his family
Habib Bourguiba’s sarcophagus in
the mausoleum
dominates the Sidi el-Mezeri
cemetery. With its gilt cupola
and twin minarets, it is hard
pointed arches. The Roman
columns that support the
arches were taken from the
collection of
wedding costumes
that includes items
the theatre are
located nearby.
Look out for the
important sights. Major towns and a Bourguiba Mosque.

Relics of the town’s Phoenician
and Roman heritage are still
evident. The main attraction
which was built in AD 796 as
a coastal defensive fortress,
and the first on the African
continent. The Great Mosque,
to miss the building in which
are the remains of Habib
Bourguiba’s family and, within a
marble sarcophagus, the great
ruins at Ruspina.
U Bourguiba Mosque
Rue de l’Indépendance. Open 8am–
of jewellery.
P Place du
Gouvernorat
eye-catching
golden statue of
Habib Bourguiba,
who is depicted
are given at least two pages. is the town’s famous ribat

(fortified Islamic monastery),
just south of the ribat, dates
from the 9th century. After
1534 Monastir, along with
man himself. Elsewhere in the
cemetery are the tombs of
marabouts and various spiritual
11:30am (courtyard only). Closed Fri.
Habib Bourguiba Mosque was
built in 1963 to a design by
This large square
lies between
the medina and
as a schoolboy.
Bourguiba’s school
originally stood on
Sousse and Sfax, enjoyed a masters. Particularly striking is Taieb Bouzguend and was a seaside boulevard Fountain in the courtyard of the same spot as
high degree of autonomy. the 12th-century tomb of Sidi inspired by the Hammouda (Route de la the Bourguiba Mosque the statue.
At this time it resembled a el-Mezeri after whom the
small republic and often cemetery is named.
gave shelter to pirates. Monastir
In the 20th century, Habib P Tomb of the Unknown
1 Habib Bourguiba Mausoleum
Bourguiba tried to make Soldier 2 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Monastir into a smart modern Rue de Tunis.
3 Ribat
metropolis. He ordered the This modest octagonal RO
UT
4 Great Mosque Habib Bourguiba E D
E
National Palace to be built structure is on the right at Mausoleum LA
FAL
5 Bourguiba Mosque AIS
E
near the Phoenician settlement the beginning of the avenue
The town map shows of El-Kadima and encircled that leads to the Bourguiba 6 Museum of Traditional Costume
7 Place du Gouvernorat RU
Sidi el-M ezeri
Cem etery
ROUT E
the ribat with a magnificent mausoleum. It is a symbolic E S

ID Ribat
I E
esplanade. At the same grave for all Tunisians who L-M
EZ
the main roads, stations, Habib Bourguiba

time, the town fought for the freedom LGE
R
ER Tomb of the
I Unknown Soldier
DE
D’A
also acquired a of their homeland. SKANÈS R UE
LA
Habib Bourguiba was born in large marina. Airport

5 km (3 miles)
Great
Mosque
Museum of
CO
car parking areas and 1903. Having studied law in A walk around + Ribat MEDINA Traditional
R
Costume
Paris he returned to Tunisia Monastir should See pp160–61.
N
IS Bourguiba Gouvernorat
RU
IC
T UN Mosque
and embarked upon intensive E
H
E DE
DE
E
political work, campaigning RU PLACE DE
tourist offices.
LIB
L’INDÉPENDANCE Fishing
against the French occupation UIB
A B OAV. Port
YE
RG
Place du UR HA
OU Gouvernorat GU BIB
of his country. Initially a .B
IBA
Bus and Louage
S
IB
IN
M U A
Stations UE RG
ITA
member of the Destour Party, R U

OL
BO
IP
he founded the Neo-Destour

TR
IB LAMTA
B
S
AV.
DE
Party in 1934. When Tunisia H

A
R.
D ES
regained independence
.
0 metres
V
300 Train
M
A
A RT
in 1956, Bourguiba became Station

Y RS
0 yards 300
its first prime minister and
then president.
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
For hotels and restaurants see pp255–6 and pp273–6 For keys to symbols see back flap
242 TUNISIA REGION BY REGION KAIROUAN 243
Arcades
The Great Mosque The cloisters skirt the courtyard on three
sides, forming long aisles that cast a
Kairouan’s Great Mosque, in the centre of the Practical Information
shadow and provide shelter from the sun.
medina, is also known as the Mosque of Sidi Oqba Rue Ibrahim ibn Aghlab.
Open 8am–2pm Sat–Thu,
after the city’s founder. The original mosque was
8–11:30am Fri. Non-Muslim visitors
built in AD 670 but was completely destroyed. admitted only into the courtyard.
Most of what exists today dates from the 9th century, & h Rue Sidi Abdelkader.
though it has been remodelled many times since
then. This is one of the oldest (and largest) places
of prayer in the Islamic world and the fourth most Mihrab Dome
important pilgrimage destination after Mecca, Capitals This dome marks the position of
the mihrab, which points in the
4 Tunisia’s Top Sights

Medina and Jerusalem. According to Muslims, seven Most of the column stems and their
capitals were taken from other direction of Mecca. It has richer
visits here are equivalent to one visit to Mecca. decorations than the mosque’s
buildings, both pagan and Christian.
Some, however, were produced by other domes.
. Minaret
The base of this minaret was built
between 724 and 728 and is one
of the oldest surviving structures
local craftsmen.
At least two pages are
of its kind. It set the pattern for
all minarets in this part of the
Islamic world. The remainder
of the 35-m-high (115-ft)
devoted to each major
minaret is 9th-century and
towers over the mosque’s
vast courtyard. Stairs with
129 steps lead to the top floor.
sight. Historic buildings
are dissected to reveal
. Prayer Hall
The hall has 17 aisles.
Two wider ones are
their interiors.
arranged in the shape of a T.
The aisles are separated from
each other by rows of columns.
Cistern
The courtyard slopes
towards the centre to deliver
rainwater into a cistern below. The
intricate decorations covering the hole
are designed to filter out impurities
Stars indicate the main points
before the water reaches the well.
KEY Entrance to the Mosque

of interest that no visitor
1 The sundial in the courtyard
marks the hours of prayer.
There are two entrances to the mosque
from the street, both leading through dome-
crowned gates. One is on the southeastern
should miss.
2 Well-heads are used to draw
side, the other on the southwestern.
water from the cisterns, which is
used for ritual ablutions.
3 The Pulpit, made of teak, was Entrance to the Courtyard Decorations
produced around AD 863, on the The wall surrounding the The mosque’s floral motifs are inspired by
orders of the Aghlabid Emir, courtyard has six gates. The ancient Hellenic traditions. The geometric
Abu Ibrahim. main entrance is through a patterns come mainly from early Christian
gate crowned with a dome. and Berber designs.
For hotels and restaurants see p259 and pp279–81
INTRODUCING
TUNISIA
Discovering Tunisia 10–15

Putting Tunisia on the Map 16–17
A Portrait of Tunisia 18–41
Tunisia Through the Year 42–47
The History of Tunisia 48–63
10 INTRODUCING TUNISIA
DISCOVERING TUNISIA
The following itineraries are designed to see itinerary is designed to explore the awe-
as much of the country, or a particular area inspiring desert and the fascinating people
of it, as possible while keeping travelling to from the south. Combining this with the
a minimum. First are two-day tours of Tunis two Tunis itineraries creates a fantastic two-
and the Greater Tunis area. The former offers week tour. Finally, the country tour focuses
the best of the city, while the latter takes a on the best of Tunisia, with a particular eye
more relaxed approach, but with plenty of to its uniqueness, beauty and history.
historical discovery. Combine these itineraries Choose a tour, combine them or pick from
for an enriching four-day tour. The seven-day each to create your own.
Mediterranean
Sea
BIZERTE
Bulla Regia
Dougga
Oue
de
Souvenir shop in Sidi Bou Saïd, with café seating in the foreground
l-H
at
tab
Oue
de
l-H Sbeïtla
ate
b
2 Weeks in Tunisia
Tamerza
•
Admire the ancient •
Marvel at the best- Chebika
ruins of Carthage, preserved mosaics
especially the Roman in the country, and Chott el-Fejej
villas, the amphitheatre spend time in the Tozeur
and the Antonine baths. dark catacombs Nefta
•
Wander through the of Sousse.
Chott el-Jerid
cobblestone streets of •
Climb the stairs
famous Sidi Bou Saïd. and wander through Douz
•
Explore Utique, the mysterious corridors
the Ancient Roman of the world’s third-
capital in Tunisia. largest amphitheatre G R E AT E A S T E R N
at El-Djem. ERG
•
Discover the
subterranean villas •
Take a caleche ride
at Bulla Regia and through the beautiful
the massive ancient botanical gardens The
city of Dougga. in Tozeur. Sahara
Decorative Tunisian tiles

DISCOVERING TUNISIA 11
Bizerte
Gulf of
Tunis
Utique
Sidi Bou Saïd

Lake Tunis Carthage Sousse old town and kasbah, as viewed from the ribat
Tunis
Nabeul
Hammamet
Gulf of
Hammamet
Sousse Key
Monastir A Week in the South
Kairouan 2 Weeks in Tunisia
0 kilometres 50
El-Djem 0 miles 50
A Week in the South

Sfax
•
Explore the beautiful
El-Ghriba synagogue and
Mediterranean the kasbah in Djerba.
Sea •
Visit the crocodile farm at
Sebkhet Parc Djerba Explore, Midoun
En-Noual
Gulf of Gabès
•
Marvel at a Star Wars set
and an authentic troglodyte
El-Ghriba home in Matmata.
Island of Midoun
Djerba Guellala •
Wander through the
incredible grain mazes
at Ksar Haddada.
Matmata •
Spend a day riding camels
in the Sahara Desert and
an evening in an authentic
Berber tent.
Ksar Haddada •
Crank up the excitement
Ksar
Ghilane Tataouine with a desert safari
starting in Tozeur.
Chenini
•
Meander through the
paths in the oases at
Chebika and Tamerza.
excellent shopping
2 Days in Tunis opportunities. Stop for lunch
in a traditional restaurant.
Tunis is a thriving capital
just a few hours’ flight from Afternoon After lunch, take a
most of Europe’s major cities. five-minute taxi ride to La Marsa
Its history dates back some (p98), a quaint suburb of Tunis
4,000 years, and today the renowned for its sea views. Stroll
city has an emerging hip down its bustling main streets
culture that embraces and quiet alleys, enjoying the
both the old and the new. architecture with its distinctive
white wrought-iron and blue
•
Arriving Arrive at Tunis
contrasts. Wander down the
Carthage International
Ancient Roman statues on display at the boardwalk while eating an ice
Airport. Take a taxi or hotel
Carthage Museum cream, then finish the day with
shuttle into the city centre.
dinner at one of the town’s
well-kept artifacts and mosaics. many restaurants or cafés.
Day 1 Wander through the different
Morning Start the day with halls and admire the bright floor Day 2
a hearty breakfast at one of mosaics. Finish the day in one Morning This is the day for
the cafés on bustling Avenue of Tunis’s five-star restaurants. a visit to the ancient town of
Habib Bourguiba (p90), then Carthage (pp106–11). Start with
take a stroll through Place 2 Days Exploring the Roman villas (p107), then
du Gouvernement (p77), Greater Tunis traverse the covered Roman
taking in the lovely palms and souk and view the mosaics
fountains en route. Walk around Greater Tunis and the Cap currently stacked against the
the large edifice of the Great Bon Peninsula have played wall for repair. Next, wander
Mosque (pp74–5) and move on a significant role in Tunisia’s through the amphitheatre
to enjoy the beautiful archi- history. Boasting excellent (p107), a remarkable structure
tecture of the National Library vantage points of the sea, that once held 3,000 spectators.
(p81), which has books in these areas feature some Finally, head to the Antonine
several languages, including of the country’s oldest baths (p107), and stroll at
French, English and Arabic. historical sites. leisure through the ancient
arches and crypts.
•
Afternoon After resting for
lunch, head towards the souks Afternoon Take a taxi to Byrsa
Airport. Take a taxi into
off the Place du Gouvernement. Hill (pp106–107) for spectacular
the city, then rely on local
Wind your way through the views of the remains of Carthage,
buses for getting around.
incredibly narrow streets of the city that frustrated the
the Great Souk (p77), Souk Romans before its conquest.
el-Attarine (p80) and Souk Day 1 Next, visit the Carthage
et-Trouk (p76), and have a Morning Start your tour in Sidi Museum (pp108–109) to see
go at haggling with the stall- Bou Saïd (pp100–101), the blue- massive sarcophagi and well-
holders. If time allows, stop for and-white city perched on a hill preserved statues and artifacts.
coffee and a chicha in one of above the Mediterranean Sea. End the day in the beautiful
the characterful souk cafés. Amble along its cobblestone Cathedral of St Louis (p106),
streets, enjoying stunning sea which is perched on the highest
Day 2 views and taking advantage of part of the city.
Morning Begin on Avenue
Habib Bourguiba and browse
the multilingual bookstore
El-Kitab. Have a mid-morning
pick-me-up in the Café de Paris
or Café de Parmyom, then join a
guided tour of the Théâtre
Muncipal (p86), with its Art
Nouveau architecture. Stop at
the Cathedral (p86) and, if it’s a
Sunday, step inside.
Afternoon Take the metro or

a taxi from the city centre and
call in at the Bardo Museum
(pp92–3), with its collection of The promenade at the seaside resort of La Marsa, near Tunis
For practical information on travelling around Tunisia, see pp314–17
Day 5
Take the bus to Tozeur (p212),
stopping for photos along the
way in Douz (p202) and on the
Chott el-Jerid salt lake (p212).
Upon arrival in Tozeur, walk
through the market and the
city centre, then explore the
museum on Rue de Kairouan,
which illustrates local customs
and traditions. Take a caleche
ride (set a price in advance)
through the botanical
garden before dinner.
Day 6
Pack good footwear and take a
Camel trekkers and quad-bikers in the desert between Douz and Ksar Ghilane bus or a 4x4 to the mountain
oasis of Chebika (p214). Enjoy
A Week in on to the town of Midoun the views of the swaying palms
the South (p186), where Parc Djerba from the café perched atop the
Explore houses, among other oasis, then descend the stairs
The great south is full things, a fascinating crocodile and explore the various trails.
of rocky terrain, sandy farm. Saunter through the Next, ride to Tamerza (pp214–
dunes, palm groves and attached Lalla Hadria Museum 15). Stop for lunch at one of the
desert oases. Once a major (p186), which highlights the excellent restaurants, then walk
point of transport for the beauty of Islamic art, then return to the oasis and view the
ancient Roman Empire, to Houmt Souk for the night. massive walls, caper plants and
today it boasts remarkable local wildlife. After your trek, sip
architecture. Day 3 a reviving Arabic coffee or a
Take a bus to Matmata (p176), traditional mint tea in the café.
•
Arriving Arrive at Djerba
where you can visit one of the Return to Tozeur in time to
Zarzis International Airport,
Star Wars sets alongside an admire the desert sunset.
then take the hotel shuttle
authentic troglodyte home.
or a taxi to your hotel.
From there, take the bus to Day 7
•
Getting around A car is Ksar Haddada (p198) and Take a safari out to one of the
essential, although buses wander through the maze of Star Wars film sets (p199) on
and taxis are pretty reliable. the old granary used in Star the outskirts of Tozeur. You will
Wars Episode I: The Phantom likely stop at Camel Neck Point
Menace. Finally, retire at a to take photos of the stretched
Day 1 hotel in Tataouine (p198). camel-neck rock formation.
Start the day at the Guellala Back in Tozeur, enjoy lunch in
Museum (p186) for a great To extend your trip... the botanical garden or a
introduction to the island of Stop off at the Berber carriage ride around the city
Djerba and its history. Next, village of Chenini (p198), before leaving from the Tozeur-
travel to Houmt Souk (pp182–3) a 15-minute drive from Nefta International Airport.
and visit Borj el-Kebir, a fortress Ksar Haddada, to admire
built in 1289 and reinforced its ancient cave drawings.
in the 14th and 16th centuries.
The nearby obelisk known
as the Monument of Skulls Day 4
was built to commemorate the From Tataouine, take a 4x4
slaughter of Spanish Christians out to Ksar Ghilane (p202),
by Dragut the Pirate. Spend the before swapping four wheels
night in Houmt Souk. for a camel caravan to explore
the Sahara in the capable
Day 2 hands of the local Berbers.
Enjoy a stroll through the streets Afterwards, kick back and relax
of the souk (p182), then head in a pool surrounded by palm
south to the beautiful El-Ghriba trees before a traditional meal
Synagogue (p184). After lunch, under the stars. Spend the
take a taxi to the nearby kasbah night in a Berber tent – fully
(citadel) and enjoy the views air-conditioned and with a The mountain oasis of Chebika, near Tozeur,
from the sea walls. Finally, move real bed. on the Algerian border
Stop for a traditional mint tea

2 Weeks in Tunisia or an Arabic coffee in one of
the historic cafés, then take a
Tunisia, known as Tunis taxi to Sidi Bou Saïd (pp100–
Khadthra in Arabic, has a 101). Spend a relaxing afternoon
large swathe of fertile land negotiating its charming
in the north that gives way cobblestone streets, stopping
to rocky desert in the south. to shop and take photographs.
Full of history, this part of Have dinner in a restaurant
the country preserves serving local food, then either
ancient sites and is home to return to Tunis or spend the
such peoples as the Berbers. night in Sidi Bou Saïd.
•
Day 3
Travel to the ancient city of
Airport, then take a taxi
Carthage (pp106–11). Visit its
to your hotel. The airport
remarkable Roman villas (p107),
is only about 10 minutes
then walk through the ancient
from the centre of Tunis.
Roman souk and public baths. Ceramics and pottery on display at a
•
Getting around A car is Next, step into the amphitheatre souvenir shop in Nabeul
essential for longer drives (p107), built for over 3,000
and handy for shorter spectators, and the Antonine Once in Bizerte, visit the kasbah
journeys. Tunisian buses and baths (p107), which date from and the Spanish Fort, and walk
taxis are also worth using. the 2nd century. Follow this around the Great Mosque,
with a taxi ride to Byrsa Hill before ending the day with a
Day 1 (pp106–107) and enjoy sweeping coffee at Café Le Pasha and a
Start your tour in Tunis (pp68– views of the ancient city that leisurely stroll on the corniche.
93). Take a taxi or the metro Rome longed to conquer. Retire at a Bizerte hotel.
down to the Bardo Museum Spend some time in the small
(pp92–3) and spend the day Carthage Museum (pp108– Day 5
viewing the artifacts and well- 109), before walking up to the Rise early and take the bus
preserved mosaics here. Finish huge Cathedral of St Louis or car from Bizerte to the
the day at one of the five-star (p106). Overnight in Sidi Bou Saïd. archaeological site of Bulla
restaurants at Lake Tunis (p103). Regia (pp136–7), about two
Day 4 hours away. Spend some time
Day 2 Take a tour bus or drive to the in the Roman underground
Walk down Avenue Habib ancient Phoenician town of villas, admiring the splendid
Bourguiba (p90) and stop to Utique (p146) to visit the ruins mosaics of these ancient
admire the Cathedral (p86), and study the differences dwellings. From Bulla Regia,
with its fascinating mix of between Carthaginian and drive for one hour to Dougga
architectural styles. Continue Roman stonework. Continue to (pp232–3) and spend the rest of
to the Great Souk (p77) and Bizerte (pp144–5), stopping the day wandering around one
meander through the narrow to eat barbecued lamb at one of ancient Rome’s largest sites.
streets, haggling along the way. of the many michoui stands. Return to Bizerte for the night.
Day 6
Get up at dawn and drive to
Nabeul (pp116–17). Spend the
morning in the souk, shopping
for spices and traditional local
pottery. Visit the Archaeology
Museum, then take a taxi to
Hammamet (pp122–4).
Meander through the old
medina behind the kasbah
walls, then stop for a meal at
one of the restaurants by the
sea, for live music and grilled
fish. Spend the night here.
Day 7
From Hammamet, head to
Sousse (pp154–7) and spend
View from a hilltop of the Mediterranean sea and the city of Sidi Bou Saïd the morning at the kasbah
For practical information on travelling around Tunisia, see pp314–17
(p156), where you will see the

country’s best collection of
preserved mosaics. Afterwards,
take a taxi to the nearby
catacombs (p157). Continue
to Monastir (pp158–61), arriving
in time for lunch. Visit the
Museum of Traditional
Costume (p159) to view local
handiwork, before paying
homage to Habib Bourguiba,
the well-loved Tunisian leader,
at the Habib Bourguiba
Mausoleum (p158). Finish the
day in a local restaurant before
retiring at a Monastir hotel.
Front entrance of the Habib Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir on a summer’s day
Day 8
Take a bus or car to Kairouan kasbah and visit the museum Tozeur. Make sure to stop for
(pp238–44). Stroll through the that explores local architecture. photos of the palm groves in
souks to view Kairouan’s famous Spend the night in Sfax. Douz (p202) and the Chott
rugs, and check out the well of el-Jerid salt lake (p212).
Bir Barouta (pp238–9), built in Day 10
the 8th century. Next, take the Take the bus or drive to the Day 12
bus or drive about 105 km island of Djerba (pp182–7) for Wander through downtown
(65 miles) to Sbeïtla (pp222–3). an action-packed day at Tozeur (p212), calling in at local
Explore the extensive archaeo- Parc Djerba Explore (p186). markets and shops. Explore the
logical site, which includes Don’t miss feeding time in the museum on Rue de Kairouan
magnificent temples and crocodile area. Continue to and take a caleche ride through
baptismal basins, before retiring. the attached Lalla Hadria the botanical garden. Take a
Museum, which is full of local safari out to the Star Wars set,
Day 9 artifacts and beautiful Islamic stopping along the way for
Rise early and drive to the former art. End the day with dinner at desert views, dune bashing
Punic town of El-Djem (p167), a seaside restaurant. and photo opportunities with
where you can spend the desert foxes and rock formations.
morning wandering around the Day 11 Watch the sun set into the
world’s third-largest Roman Take a bus or car to Matmata desert, then head back to
amphitheatre. Have lunch at a (p176) and view the former Star Tozeur for the night.
local establishment, then Wars set. Explore a traditional
continue on to Sfax (pp168–75), troglodyte home and experi- Day 13
two and half hours away. Visit the ence the considerable drop Drive to Chebika (p214), and
Dar Jellouli Museum (pp172–3), in temperatures from the hot stop in the oasis café and small
housed in a 17th-century desert surroundings. Spend the shopping area. Be sure to wear
mansion. Take a taxi over to the rest of the afternoon driving to proper footwear for descending
into the palms. Continue to
Tamerza (pp214–15), where you
can enjoy lunch at a restaurant
with sweeping views of the
desert landscape. Walk to the
oasis, with its graceful waterfalls.
Stay in a local hotel, and have a
traditional Berber meal under
the stars.
Day 14
Enjoy a quick trip to Nefta
(p213), on the other side of
Tozeur, for incredible views of
the desert. Have a light lunch
at Tozeur’s botanical garden’s
restaurant before getting up
close and personal with the
local wildlife, such as desert
Part of a set that was used during the filming of one of the Star Wars movies snakes, at the nearby zoo.
Putting Tunisia on the Map M e d i t e r ra n e a n S e a Bizerte
The northernmost point of the African continent,

Tunisia is sandwiched between Algeria to the west Tabarka
and Libya to the east. Some 1,300 km (800 miles) of Annaba Béja
Mediterranean coastline mark the country’s eastern
and northern boundaries. Covering an area of
163,610 sq km (63,170 sq miles), Tunisia measures Guelma y
e
150 km (93 miles) from east to west at its narrowest Va l l
r da
je Le Kef
point. It has a wide diversity of landscapes, ranging ed
M
from its northern mountainous region to the fertile
Medjerda Valley and, in the south, a region of desert.
Maktar
Batna
Tébessa Sbeïtla
Barika
Kasserine
ALGERIA
Biskra
Gafsa
Chott
Chott Melghir el-Gharsa
Still
Chott Felrhir Tozeur

Taleb Larbi Chott el-Jerid
El-Oued
T U N
Touggourt
GERMANY POLAND
Europe and BELGIUM
CZECH
North Africa REP. UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
FRANCE AUSTRIA HUNGARY

Great
SWITZ.
ATLANTIC ROMANIA Eastern
OCEAN BOSNIA
HERZ. SERBIA
Erg
ITA LY
MONTEN. BULGARIA
MAC.
SPAIN
PORTUGAL
GREECE
Tunis
TUNISIA
MOROCCO
ALGERIA
L I B YA
PUTTING TUNISIA ON THE MAP 17
Sicily
(Italy)
Cap Bon
Pozzallo
Tunis Pantelleria
(Italy)
G u lf o f Valletta
H a m m am e t M A L TA
Pelagian Islands
Sousse
(Italy)
Kairouan
El-Jem
Key
Echrarda
Motorway
Major road
Sfax
Kerkennah Islands Other road
Mazzouna International border

Salt lake
Skhira
G u lf o f G ab è s
Gabès Djerba
Al-Hammah
Medenine
Tripoli
Zuwarah
I S I A Surman Khoms
Tataouine
Remada
L I B YA Ġaryān
Nalut Bani Waled
0 kilometres 50
0 miles 50
For keys to symbols see back flap

INTRODUCING TUNISIA 19
A PORTRAIT OF TUNISIA
Tunisia is a visitor-friendly destination with many attractions, including the
walled medinas of Tunis and Sousse, historic remains at Bulla Regia and
Dougga, and Djerba’s glorious beaches. For the more adventurous, there is
much to explore including ancient troglodyte villages, the glimmering Chott
el-Jerid salt flats and the vast expanse of the Sahara Desert.
The history of Tunisia has been shaped Tunisia’s colourful past has left it rich in
by the Phoenicians, Romans, Turks, historical remains. These include the
Berbers and – above all – the Arabs. The sites of Phoenician and Roman Carthage,
mountainous north acts as the country’s the ruins of the Punic town of Kerkouane,
garden, providing cereals, vegetables and the Roman remains at Dougga, the
fruit. This area has many Phoenician and amphitheatre at El-Djem, the holy city
Roman remains, and includes the once- of Kairouan and the magnificent
mighty Carthage. In contrast to the fertile medinas of Tunis and Sousse where
north, the yellow-red desert in the south Islamic architecture dating back more
is almost completely deprived of rain. than 1,000 years can be seen.
Here, Tozeur and Nefta are fascinating
towns that have grown up around desert Society
oases. Nefta, surrounded by desert sands, Tunisia has a population of more than
once provided a refuge for Muslim mystics, 10 million and the vast majority of the
and now produces the best dates in country’s inhabitants, some 98 per cent,
Tunisia. Even further south there is nothing is of Arab stock. Nearly all are Muslim,
but desert – an endless sea of hot sand. though there is a tiny percentage of
Many visitors flock to “blue” Tunisia, to both Jews and Christians. The original
enjoy the warm waters and beaches of Berbers make up a small part of the
Hammamet, Sousse and Djerba, but the population and are found mainly in the
country has much more to offer. south of the country.
Green fields and olive groves around Testour

The arena of an ancient Roman amphitheatre
Culture and Traditions

Tunisia’s busy tourist areas show many
signs of western influence, including
fast food, modern pop music and the
latest fashions. Elsewhere, traditional
life has developed at a gentler pace and
the mosque and bathhouse (hammam)
are still important parts of everyday life.
Tunisian culture has evolved over the
generations through an intermingling
of strands from both European and
Arab traditions. Successive cultures,
rather than simply supplanting their
Cobbler in a souk in Tozeur predecessors, blended with them to
produce a wonderfully diverse social
Tunisian society is young; the average and cultural melting pot. This blend
age is 26 and slightly over one-quarter is most clearly manifested in Tunisian
of the population is under the age of 15. music, which displays Berber and
A family planning policy introduced in Andalusian influences (these also have
the 1960s has brought about a steady fall echoes in modern Tunisian pop music).
in the birth rate and the model of the Tunisian literature is mainly associated
Tunisian family has gradually changed with Arabic writing. In its early
since independence. It is now days, it consisted primarily
becoming common for Tunisian of theological and historic
women to go out to work. As a result works. In the 20th century,
of factors such as these, families however, there was an increase
living in the major towns and in the popularity of Tunisian
cities are generally smaller in writers who expressed
size than those in the villages. themselves in French. The
Tunisia has a modern and well- most famous modern
developed education system; Tunisian writer is Abu
primary education is compulsory Berber dressed in traditional el-Kacem el-Chabbi
and a great deal of importance is djellaba and turban (1909–34), a native of
attached to learning foreign Tozeur, whose poem
languages in school. Nearly three- “Will to Live” is taught to schoolchildren
quarters of the population is literate. throughout the Arab world.
An indoor vegetable stall

A PORTRAIT OF TUNISIA 21
Modern Tunisian painting by Ali ben Salem
Though open to foreign ideas, Tunisian Many public buildings, including

society is very protective of its traditions. hammams, kasbahs and, above all,
The hijab (headscarf ), banned under Ben mosques, are works of art in their own
Ali in many public and governmental right. All are based on Islamic styles and
institutions, is now worn by most motifs and generally include elaborately
married women. Muslim festivals decorated doorways, bright colours and
are celebrated with due ceremony striking minarets.
in Tunisia, particularly two feasts Influenced by the French
known as Aïd el-Adha and Aïd and Italians, painting has
el-Fitr (see p43). Ramadan – the become a popular art form
month of fasting from sunrise to in Tunisia. The year 1949
sunset – is strictly observed. As An Early Christian relief marked the birth of the most
with most Islamic countries, family famous Tunisian school of
is particularly important in Tunisian painting – the École de Tunis. Its
society and relatives are expected pioneers combined new trends in art
to celebrate festivities together, as well with scenes from everyday life, and
as help one another. introduced modern art to Tunisia.
The Arts
Pottery and ceramic arts have flourished
since Roman times and have been enriched
by Andalusian and Italian influences.
Ancient Tunisian mosaics are justly famous
and a great many have been found, some
of which date back to the 2nd century AD.
Most towns in 3rd-century Tunisia had a
mosaic workshop which produced
wonderfully colourful designs with a
distinctive African influence including
scenes of hunting and wildlife, which
were used mainly as floor decorations.
From these early beginnings, mosaics
have become one of the main decorative
elements of Tunisian architecture. Stonemason at work
Yahia Turki, an early member of this the years, the members of the
school, is considered by many to be National Assembly are elected for
the father of modern five-year terms by a democratic
Tunisian painting. The vote. The government and the
traditional Arab-style prime minister are responsible
music that visitors are to the elected
likely to hear is malouf president. Tunisia’s
(which means “normal”). presidential role
It was first introduced in carries supreme
the 15th century by executive power
refugees from Andalusia. and has command
Using a mixture of of the armed forces.
western and Arab Despite making
instruments, it is a lively Equestrian statue of Bourguiba a number of major
blend of Hispanic and reforms, Habib
Arabic folk music. Bourguiba eventually lost touch with his
people and the Arab world in general
Modern-Day Politics and in 1987 he was replaced by his
Tunisia is a democratic republic and Interior Minister Zine el-Abidine Ben
won its independence from France on Ali. This change marked a turning point
20 March 1956 with Habib Bourguiba, a in the history of modern Tunisia. Ben Ali
French-educated lawyer, as its first prime abolished life presidencies and
minister and then its president. Three introduced a multiparty system.
years later, Tunisia’s assembly passed a During his 23-year rule, Ben Ali was
constitution that concentrated a lot of repeatedly accused of corruption and
power in the hands of the president and of oppressing his countrymen,
provided the country with a legal system undermining the human and political
based on a mixture of French civil law and rights of his people. As his rule
Islamic law. Under this constitution, which progressed, high rates of unemployment
has undergone a series of reforms over and poor living conditions, especially in
Posters of President Ben Ali, once seen on the streets of Nabeul

Women in Tunisia
Thanks in large part to the influence
of Tunisia’s former president, Habib
Bourguiba, the freedom allowed to
Tunisian women is greater than in
most Muslim countries. In 1956 he
outlawed such practices as polygamy
and divorce by renunciation and
banned the hijab (headscarf ) from
schools as part of an (unsuccessful)
campaign to phase it out altogether.
Women in Tunisia have far more
opportunities to work than in many
Women on the beach in La Goulette Muslim countries and these days it is
not unusual for women to be
Kasserine and surrounding areas, led to doctors, lawyers and airline
growing public discontent. In December pilots. The signing of
2010, Mohamed Bouazizi, a street vendor further conventions
from Sidi Bouzid, set himself on fire in during the 1980s
protest against police harassment. ensured women’s
Bouazizi’s self-immolation ignited the rights to
so-called Jasmine Revolution. All parts of education, and
the country, including the army, came to equal pay.
together to call on the president to resign. As a result, the
Ben Ali fled to Saudi Arabia on 24 January problems faced
2011. In October of that year, Moncef by both
Marzouki, a well-known human rights Tunisian women Berber woman in traditional attire
activist, was elected interim president by and women in
the assembly tasked with governing the the West are not so different. .
country. In late 2014, Mohamed Beji Caid In the villages, however, where many
Essebsi became the first freely elected traditional norms still apply, the situation
Tunisian president. can be somewhat different. If in work,
Tunisia has played an important role it is not unusual for women to hand
in North African affairs, as well as over all of their pay directly to their
mediating in the Israeli-Palestinian husbands or (if unmarried) save their
conflict. During the 1990 Gulf War,
public opinion in Tunisia was strongly
behind the former Iraqi leader Saddam
Hussein. Ben Ali condemned Iraq for
its invasion of Kuwait but felt unable to
fully support the United States’ action.
Tunisia also withheld its support during
the Iraq conflict that began in 2003.
It exerted a major influence in promoting
regional economic cooperation. Tunisia’s
influence in the region is indicated by
the fact that the protests through
December 2010 and into the new year
sparked similar unrest in Egypt, Jordan,
Algeria, Yemen and Libya. Both traditional and modern dress in Bizerte
wages towards a dowry. oranges, dates,

And even though many pomegranates,
women can be seen grapes and sugar
socializing in some of cane. The agricultural
the European-style cafés, sector has declined
they are a less common in the last few years,
sight in traditional however, and Tunisia
Tunisian cafés, which are now imports 40 per
normally occupied by cent of its food.
pipe-smoking, card- The country’s
playing men. But overall, natural resources
the situation of women include phosphate
has improved vastly rock, oil and natural
since the country gas (in the south),
gained independence. as well as iron, lead
and zinc ores.
Economy The processing
Tunisia’s economy is Tunisian craftsmen, important contributors
of olive oil, petro-
based on agriculture, to the economy chemicals and
power generation, ceramics account for
tourism and the service industry. Tunisia a significant portion of the country’s
is the world’s largest producer of dates (a economy, as does the production of
fact not reflected in its export figures) handicrafts (including carpets, jewellery
and the fourth-largest producer of olive and tourist souvenirs). Fishing brings in
oil. Mining also plays an important part additional income and is based mainly
in the country’s economy and Tunisia is on tuna, sardines and mackerel.
among the world’s leading producers By far the largest share of Tunisia’s
of phosphates. national revenue comes from the textile
Agricultural land occupies nearly half industry, with most exports going to
of the country’s total area. The main France, the USA, Italy and Germany. In
crops include cereals, olives, tomatoes, 1995 Tunisia signed an agreement with
the EU that opened up new
markets. Under this
agreement,
trade tariffs should one day
be dropped, leading to free
trade between Tunisia and
the EU. Following Ben Ali’s
departure, and with a new
democratic government
in place, it is possible that
foreign investment and
private enterprise could
now flourish within Tunisia.
Tourism
Tourism is a major source of
the country’s income. Since
1998, Tunisia has allocated
An oil well, producing one of Tunisia’s natural resources over 300 million dinars
a year to developing its

tourism infrastructure.
The country now attracts
some five million visitors
annually, generating
nearly $2 billion a year
for the economy. During
the political protests at
the end of 2010 and into
2011, many governments
advised against travel to
Tunisia. However, as the
situation stabilizes, the A covered souk in Tunis – popular with both locals and tourists
tourist industry is
expected to make a feeling of safety and comfort within
good recovery. holiday villages. These offer a high
The country’s 1,300 km (800 miles) standard of accommodation, lush
of coastline and the coral surroundings, easy access to the
reef around Tabarka makes beaches, large swimming-pool
Tunisia a good destination complexes, an easy-going
for those who want a beach atmosphere and lively
holiday. The many historic entertainment. Their major
sites are also a big draw, disadvantage, however, is that
of course, especially for they offer little of the culture
holiday-makers interested in and everyday life of Tunisia.
ancient history. For sports lovers, Tourism has also been boosted
there are the championship- by the many film-makers who
quality golf courses, and the A decorated jar have used the country’s stunning
many opportunities for hiking, from Nabeul landscape and architecture in the
horse riding, camel trekking, making of films such as The English
fishing and diving. Patient and Star Wars (see pp38–9).
To cope with the demand, tourist A range of festivals held throughout
zones (zones touristiques) have been the year represents another attraction
created to give visitors an added for visitors.
A busy beach in the tourist resort of Tabarka

Tunisia’s Landscape and Wildlife

Seen from the air, Tunisia appears as a golden-
brown land interwoven with green and blue.
The mountainous north is overgrown with
oak forests and heather. The Medjerda Valley,
irrigated by Tunisia’s largest permanent river,
is used for growing corn and is one of Tunisia’s
most fertile regions. The craggy northern coast
is extraordinarily picturesque, while the eastern
shores, with their sandy beaches, are home to
most of Tunisia’s hotels and coastal resorts. In
contrast to the fertile north, Tunisia’s flat, southern Desert area, sparsely covered with palms, at the foot
desert region is almost totally devoid of rain. of the mountains near Toujane
Sahara Desert
Tunisia’s desert covers the southern tip of the country.
A sea of sand (erg), it is formed of the eastern extremity
of the Great Eastern Erg (or “Grand Erg Oriental”) which
extends over a large part of eastern Algeria. This inhospitable
area is more commonly known as the Sahara Desert. Parts
of it can go for years without rain and the rainfall in this
region never exceeds 50 mm (1.96 inches) per year.
The fennec, a desert fox with large

ears, is regarded as the most
voracious predatory mammal
of the Sahara. It hunts at
night, feeding on beetles, Rocky desert occupies the large central
rodents and birds’ eggs. region of the country. It is overgrown
During the day it hides with spiky esparto grass, which is used
in cool burrows. in the production of high-quality paper.
Oued
A oued (pronouced “wed”) is a riverbed. Parched
during the dry season, it fills with water with the
arrival of the rains. Often with craggy banks, it
can run for many miles. The waters may swell
suddenly – a single downpour is enough to
flood a oued in a flash, with the turbulent flow
gouging out the valley and altering the shape
of the bed. Following rain, the banks of the
oued burst forth with vegetation.
Sahara in the classical Arabic language means
“empty area”. Later, it also began to mean an area
devoid of water – a desert. You can drive for many
miles here and not see a single plant.
Chott el-Jerid –
this dry salty lake
bed can turn into
a boggy morass
covered by
shallow pools of
water that take
on a variety of Roman bridge over a oued, near Sbeïtla
bright colours.
The Coast
Tunisia has two types of coastline: rocky in the
north and, in the east, sandy shores that gently
descend towards the Mediterranean Sea. The
country’s long stretch of coast is extended by
marshland and seasonal lakes that adjoin the
sea. Tunisia has plenty of sandy beaches. These
are found mainly on the east coast, in the
Sandy beaches, used mainly by visitors, are
regions of Hammamet, Gabès, Djerba, and
found to the east. There are tourist zones here
on the Kerkennah Islands, as well as in the (zones touristiques), which have facilities and
northeast – along the Gulf of Tunis and between entertainment laid on. The beaches on Tunisia’s
Bizerte and El-Haouaria. The extraordinarily north coast around Tabarka are far less
picturesque north coast, stretching from Bizerte frequently visited.
into Algeria, has high rugged cliffs. There are
coral reefs here, rich in marine life, that are
unique to this part of the Mediterranean.
Oyster-catchers are Rocks in Tabarka display

one of many species some of the most
The craggy coastline around El-Haouaria of wading bird found striking geological
dropping steeply into the sea creates small along the sandy regions formations found along
picturesque coves. of the coast. the north coast.
Central Regions
The landscape of the interior is somewhat harsh, its colours faded. To
the north is the Tell region, separated from the Tunisian Atlas range of
mountains by the Medjerda River. Tell forms the western end of the
Atlas range that runs east from Morocco. Its western section comprises
agricultural land. The southern part of the central region has two salt lakes
– Chott el-Jerid and Chott el-Gharsa – which are dry for much of the year.
Mountain oases and palm

oases are features of the
Tunisian landscape. The roads
leading to them are often
extremely picturesque and
wind among volcanic rocks.
The northwestern and western regions

are among the greenest corners of
Tunisia, with extensive fields and
wooded hills.
Prickly pear (called hindi in Arabic),

cultivated all over Tunisia, is also
a popular hedge
plant. It grows to
a height of 7 m
(23 ft), forming
an impenetrable
barrier. The Olive groves are found everywhere in Tunisia. Olives,
thornless variety is planted here in even rows, are an important part of
used as animal feed. Tunisia’s economy.
Tunisian Architecture
Alongside the obvious presence of Islam, Tunisian
architecture includes a variety of influences. The earliest
of these can be seen in the Roman and Punic remains that
are scattered throughout the northern regions and along
the coast. Much later, the colonial era brought with it
new civic styles including the French Ville Nouvelle, with
its wide streets, public parks and houses with elaborate
street-facing façades. Ancient Berber architecture is
most common in the south of the country where the
troglodyte pit houses and ksour (fortified granaries) reveal Makthar – the remains of one of many Roman
a way of life that has changed little over the centuries. towns in Tunisia
Southern Architecture
Some Berbers of southern Tunisia lived partly underground. Their
ancient homes, dug down into circular pits, maintained the same
temperature of about 17° C (63° F) throughout the year. This building
tradition goes back many hundreds of years, but the most famous
homes of this type, found in Matmata, date from the 19th century.
A “pit house” was inhabited by just one family, with the number of
rooms being appropriate to the family’s size and wealth.
The courtyard
(houch) in the
shape of a giant
well is accessed
through a descen-
ding tunnel. The
living quarters,
well away from the The entrance and inner walls
sun’s rays, are dug are white. Simple rooms have
into its walls, on recesses and dug-out shelves
one or two levels. for storing everyday items.
Punic Architecture
Punic architecture is associated mainly with Carthage, which was
founded in 813 BC. Its most obvious feature is a distinct town
layout, with houses built on slopes around a square. Another
hallmark of this style is the horizontal and vertical arrangement
of building stones, known as opus africanum. Coastal towns
often had two harbours, northern and southern, which were
used depending on the wind direction. The temples were built
in the mountains, close to springs, trees and Carthage has many remains of
stones, which were seen as sacred. Punic architecture, although they
can be hard to spot amid the
Roman ruins.
The Antonine Baths

is one of Carthage’s
most important
Roman sites. What
Capitals and other little remains gives
architectural details visitors some idea of
bear witness to the their sheer scale.
architectural skills of
the Carthaginians.
Roman Architecture
A typical Roman town was constructed on a chequered layout. At
its heart was the forum, which was dominated by a temple (capitol)
devoted to various deities. Everyday life concentrated around the
market square. Entertainment was provided by the theatre, and the
baths were used for relaxation and hygiene.
The Capitol in Dougga was
built to stand on the town’s
highest point.
The theatre was as important

as the capitol. Some could
accommodate an audience of
several thousand people.
The Colonial Era Tunis’s Cathedral, with its

eclectic mix of forms and
With the advent of the French
styles, is one of the few
Protectorate in 1881, Tunisian towns
remaining churches from
acquired straight avenues, flanked by the colonial era.
public buildings. The style of the day
combined European and Islamic
elements. European design incorpor-
ated arcades and horseshoe arches
and the façades of elegant villas were
further embellished with loggias and
balconies adorned with beautiful
wrought-iron grilles.
Buildings in towns such as Tunis

and Bizerte were designed in
contemporary styles. Multistorey Villa in Hammamet, an
hotels and apartment blocks often early 20th-century
bore the signs of Modernism and Modernist house owned
Art Nouveau. by George Sebastian.
Modern Architecture Contemporary

offices in Tunisia
Initially, 20th-century Tunisian architecture was
can be an
under the influence of Art Nouveau. The Art
interesting blend
Deco style arrived during the 1920s and 30s, of modern
bringing with it more geometric ornamental materials, such as
patterns. The late 1990s marked a return to smoked glass, and
simpler, traditional forms. Islamic influences.
Tourist zones,
seeking to amuse,
often feature
fairy-tale designs.
Some hotels
are built to
resemble ancient
The Hotel du Lac in Tunis, built in the shape palaces or Tunisian
of an upturned pyramid, is one of the most ksour (age-old
interesting examples of modern architecture. Berber strongholds).
Islamic Architecture
Tunisia has been under the influence of Islam since the
7th century and this is apparent in its architecture. The most
striking example of this influence is the large number of
mosques, with their distinctive minarets. Other Islamic buildings
include medersas, zaouias (tombs) and the humble hammam
or bathhouse. Islamic architecture is the result of many cultures
and includes Roman, Moorish and Persian elements. However,
from grand Aghlabid buildings to domestic courtyards, a number
of common features run through it. These include the horseshoe
arch, richly coloured tiles forming swirling arabesques, and the Elaborate doorways, a typical
frequent use of carved plaster as a decorative element. feature of Islamic architecture
Minarets Dome on top Gallery, from

of the minaret which the
Minarets (from the Arabic for muezzin calls
lighthouse) are found at one the faithful
corner of a mosque. According to prayer
to tradition, the Prophet
Mohammed intended to use
a trumpet (as did the Jews) or a
rattle to call the faithful to
prayer but one of his disciples
saw a mysterious apparition
that revealed to him the words
of a prayer. Mohammed
instructed Bilal (the first
muezzin), endowed with a
powerful voice, to learn the
words. Since then, five times a
day, the muezzin’s chant cuts
through the daily bustle of
Muslim towns and villages.
There are two main styles of The minaret in Octagonal
minarets found in Tunisia; the Kairouan dates The decorations minarets are based
older one has a rectangular from AD 730, of some Tunisian on Turkish towers.
base, while the ones built on and is older mosques are very Many Tunisian
an octagonal plan were than most of the ornate; others are minarets are square
popularized by the Turks. mosque it serves. more austere. all the way up.
Mosques
The mosque or masjid (“a place
of worship”) is one of the main
forms of Islamic architecture.
The basic elements include a
courtyard surrounded by
columns, and a prayer hall.
The design is thought to be
based on the house that
belonged to Mohammed in
Medina, which had an oblong
courtyard with huts. This Mosques were often surrounded by
courtyard has become the zaouias (tombs). These were used as
Bourguiba Mosque in prayer hall which faces towards burial grounds for Islamic holy men
Monastir is a modern Mecca. The hall is separated (marabouts) and serve as destinations
building but has some from the rest of the mosque by for pilgrimages. One such complex
traditional features. a step or balustrade. can be found in Le Kef.
Zaouias
Zaouias are humble resting places for
people who have dedicated their
lives to Islam. Simple in design, they
are usually whitewashed and less
grand than mausoleums, and can be
found dotted around the towns and
villages of Tunisia. Initially the name
was given to an isolated part of a
mosque that was used as a gathering
place for Muslim mystics, mainly Zaouia in Mahdia, situated outside the town beside a cemetery.
ascetic Sufis. Following the death of The site is conducive to meditation. Zaouias are not only used
its master, a zaouia often became a as places of pilgrimage but often have a social function as well.
sanctuary that attracted pilgrims. They may be used to hold a weekly market, for instance.
Medersas
In the Middle Ages, a medersa was a law school, a type of
Muslim university, and the main centre for promoting Sunni
orthodoxy, Muslim law and theology. They generally included
lecture halls and, as students traditionally lived there, boarding
rooms. Designed along the same lines as a mosque, merdersas
have an inner courtyard beyond the main entrance and also a
prayer hall. The classrooms are generally located to the side of
the courtyard. Most often found in the medina of large towns
and cities, medersas can have incredibly elaborate decoration.
The courtyard of a medersa is surrounded by arcades,

much like a mosque. The shaded arcades sheltered
visitors and provided a place for quiet contemplation.
Bab
A bab is a door or gate that not
only leads into a town but is also
used to divide a town’s areas into
smaller quarters, creating a feeling
of security, and guarding against
unwelcome visitors. In the 20th
century many of the gates
disappeared, turning the private
areas into public ones. But even Medinas were always surrounded
Bab Diwan is one of now in Tunis or Kairouan, there are by high walls. Entry was through a
the gates leading to still gates that are centuries-old number of gates guarded by fortified
the medina in Sfax. leading to private homes. towers or bastions.
Defensive walls Tower dominating the Kasbah

of the medina The high walls
town and the kasbah The kasbah is a specific type of
of the kasbah
fortress palace. It was normally
the residence of the local ruler
but it also provided shelter for
the local population. Kasbahs (or
citadels) were generally built on
hilltops, mountain slopes or near
harbours. Their distinctive features
The kasbah in include high walls and small
Sousse is one of the most windows. Some of the most
impressive and well-preserved structures of beautiful examples have survived
its type in Tunisia. Today it houses a museum. in Sousse, Le Kef and Tunis.
Islam in Tunisia
Islam reached Tunisia in the wake of the Arab
conquest and began to spread as early as the
second half of the 7th century. It rapidly Wells are used for
became the dominant religion and, despite a ritual ablutions
period of colonial rule, remains so today. Islam and are found in
is the state religion, though Tunisia’s system of many mosques.
For Muslims,
government is largely secular. Islamic customs prayers should
play a major role in people’s lives and over be said in a state
98 per cent of Tunisians profess adherence to of cleanliness
the practices of Sunni Islam. achieved through
ritual cleansing.
Before entering
the prayer hall it
is obligatory for
the faithful to
remove their
shoes. Similar to
the practice of
ritual washing,
the aim is to
ensure spiritual
cleanliness.
Pages of the
religious books
produced for
many wealthy
Muslims were
often richly
ornamented.
Koranic verses
are written in a
decorative script
and are believed
to be the literal
word of God.
Mosques are decorated with
geometric patterns, plant motifs
and verses from the Koran.
Koran
Ceramic tiles The Koran, or Quran, is the holy book
are a popular of Islam and was revealed by God to
decorative Mohammed, with the angel Gabriel acting
element and as an intermediary. Mohammed is believed
often adorn
to have been illiterate, and the first written
mosques or
texts of the Koran were compiled after the
other religious
buildings such Prophet’s death. The Koran consists of 114
as tombs and suras (chapters), starting with the Fatiha,
medersas. the longest, and finishing with the shortest.
Intricate designs The first sura revealed to Mohammed is
can also often be thought to be number 96. The Koran is in
seen in wealthy verse and it is not uncommon for Muslims
Tunisian homes. to learn it by heart.
A Muslim is a person who “submits to the

will of God” (Islam means submission). Pious
Muslims spend long hours studying the Koran,
placing the book on a special folding support.
Prayer brings together crowds of

the faithful, who gather in the
mosque and courtyard. The women
are required to stand in an area
separated by a screen or curtain.
The chapters, or suras, of the

Koran are separated by elaborate
circular illuminations.
The Five Pillars

The Muslim religion rests on five
principles – the “Five Pillars” of faith.
They are:
1 shahada – an avowal of Allah as
the only God and Mohammed
as his prophet
2 salat – the obligation to pray
five times a day, facing Mecca
3 zakat – the giving of alms to
the poor
4 sawm – fasting during the
month of Ramadan, between
sunrise and sunset
5 hadj – pilgrimage to Mecca.
The Kaaba in Mecca is the main destination

A mosque is a place of communal worship for Muslims. of Muslim pilgrimages
Separated from the outside world by high walls, a
mosque’s most distinctive feature is its minaret.
Tunisian Traditions
Tunisian society attaches great importance to its traditions.
These include religious festivals, rituals associated with
religious practices and customs that predate Muslim times,
including the “night of henna”, which takes place before
weddings. Circumcision for boys is a requirement. Ramadan
(the month in which devout Muslims fast between sunrise
and sunset) is celebrated with great ceremony. In the
provinces it is customary for people to visit public baths, Henna – a dye obtained from
wear jewellery with magic talismans, and make pilgrimages ground privet leaves. The
to the tombs of Muslim holy men. The family is held in high painted patterns are believed
to protect and purify.
esteem throughout the country and family gatherings
communal meals are a frequent occurrence.
Many Tunisian women choose to cover their

heads. The traditional headscarf (hijab) is found
in various forms all over the Muslim world. The
sifsari (above) is mainly worn by older women.
Weddings
Wedding jewellery During the pre-Islamic era,
of gold and silver, the Arabs practised polygamy.
decorated with Although the Koran
precious stones maintained this tradition,
and magic symbols,
it limited the number of
is intended to
bestow beauty, wives to four. In Tunisia
ensure fertility polygamy was outlawed
The souk or market has been the centre of and bring wealth in 1956. A wedding is an
and happiness. important public occasion,
town social life for hundreds of years. They
are run according to strict principles, with attended by the entire family.
every product having its own permanently The bride’s feet and palms
allocated space according to how close it are covered in henna and
is to the mosque: religious items and books nakcha tattoos. Dancing
are top of the list while household goods constitutes an important
have a low status. part of the festivities.
The custom of
circumcision involves Chechias
the removal of a boy’s
foreskin and is practised
by Jews and Muslims.
Though the Koran does
not pronouce on the
subject, the authority
for Muslim circumcision
probably derives from
the example of the
Prophet who is believed In modern-day Tunisia chechias are
to be descended from
worn mainly by older men
Kedar, a descendant of
Abraham’s eldest son. A red cap with a silk tassel,
similar to a fez, was once
regarded as a vital element of
a man’s attire, and during the
colonial era it became almost a
national symbol. The chechia
originates from Central Asia.
Initially taller, it took on its
present shape around 1850.
The tassel has also had many
transformations – first
changing its colour from blue
to black and then, around
1930, vanishing altogether.
Chechias remain popular to
this day and the craftsmen
who produce them are held
in high regard.
Wedding
costumes are rich
in adornments.
The fabrics and
designs are remini-
scent of traditional
Tunisian costumes.
Chichas – hookahs – are
popular throughout Tunisia, and
they are used to smoke tobacco
in cafés. Many men enjoy solitary
smoking, but chichas are more
Games are popular in Tunisia and men can often shared between a party of
often be seen in cafés playing dominoes, dice people. The pipes are generally
and cards. Dry dates or stones may sometimes provided free (smokers need
serve as pawns in a game of chess. pay only for the tobacco).
The Berbers
Berbers are the indigenous (non-Arab) people of North Africa.
Their name probably originates from the Greek word
“barbaroi”, which was a description attached to anyone who
did not speak Greek. The Berbers inhabited the region from
around 4000 BC, and survived as nomads. During the 4th and
5th centuries many Berbers converted to Christianity. Until
around AD 700 they resisted the Arab invasion. Despite
having much in common with the Arabs (their nomadic
lifestyle, individualism and tribal solidarity) and despite Berber women decorate their
having quickly embraced Islam, the Berbers have continued faces and hands with henna
patterns in order to protect
to maintain their own ethnic and linguistic identity. themselves from evil spirits.
The International Sahara Festival,

held in November or December, attracts
many visitors. The event includes expert
displays of horsemanship and recreations
of nomadic ceremonies such as weddings
and caravan departures. Berber Women
Women are the custodians of the ancient Berber
traditions. Their clothes differ considerably from
those seen in the towns. Their typical garment –
the hauli – is a draped piece of material held with
a belt and fastened with clasps (khelala) at the
shoulders. To this is often added a shawl. Women
often weave cloth for their dresses at home. The
colours most often worn are deep red, purple and
indigo. The designs consist mainly of colourful stripes.
Berber ceramics are easily recognizable by their pure

abstract designs that are reminiscent of tattoos. The most
popular colours include beige, red ochre and black. Here,
the geometric design is first drawn in raw clay then the
grooves are filled with black resin.
A fortified Berber village is known as a ksar. Ksour

(the plural of ksar) were originally granaries with
ghorfas (rooms) situated around an inner courtyard
and reached by a concealed entrance. After some
time, people began to live in ksour and some are
still inhabited today.
The Berber social system is based

on a tribal structure. Berber women
perform most of the domestic duties,
such as washing, but have maintained
an independent status.
The traditional
Berber clasp (khelala)
combines practicality
with decorative
and even
protective
functions.
Made of silver,
it is often
covered with
designs that
Highly ornamental Colourful costumes worn are believed
gold jewellery all year round to ensure
fertility, guard
against the
“evil eye” and
bestow beauty on
the wearer.
Agriculture and stock keeping are the

main occupations of the Berbers. There are
some 50,000–90,000 currently living in
Tunisia. Most of them inhabit mountain
oases. Some villages are becoming short
of men, who move to towns in search of
work. It is therefore left to the women to
cultivate the land.
Film-makers in Tunisia
Green hills and palm oases surrounded by a sea of sand;
ancient medinas and troglodyte homes; Oriental bazaars
and coastal scenery; Roman and Muslim relics – all this adds
up to a fascinating variety of images. For the film director,
Tunisia offers rich pickings which is why over 130 world film
productions have been carried out under Tunisian skies. It
was here that George Lucas shot Star Wars and Steven
Spielberg filmed Raiders of the Lost Ark. The Monty Python
group chose it as the location for Life of Brian, and Roman
Polanski came here to make Pirates. The English Patient –
winner of nine Oscars – was also shot in Tunisia.
Poster for a contemporary Tunisian film,
reputation that was not limited Une Odyssée
to Arab countries. In 1994,
Moufida Tlatli’s film The Silences mythical planet of Luke
of the Palace won a prize at the Skywalker, hero of Star Wars –
Cannes Film Festival. Tunisians can be found in southern
are proud of the fact that the Tunisia. Located south of
chief art director of Star Wars Medenine, Tataouine is full
was a fellow countryman – of craters cut into the soft
Taieb Jallouli. rock. George Lucas also used
Tunisia took advantage not nearby Ksar Haddada for the
only of its diverse landscape filming of the slave quarters
and the enthusiasm of local in The Phantom Menace.
artists and technicians, but However, most of the scenes
Rex Ingram, an early film-maker in Tunisia also its natural links – both from Star Wars were shot in
with the Maghreb countries Matmata, 43 km (27 miles)
and with France. Tunisian south of Gabès. The local
The Advent of Cinema cinema became a bridge troglodyte houses are still
Local film-makers claim that between Arab and European inhabited; they also house
well-kept roads lead to such cultures. The attraction of shops, hotels and restaurants.
romantic places as the “Jewel of Tunisian locations and the The Sidi Driss hotel was the
Jerid”; Nefta, the “Garden of achievements of Tunisian set for the interior shots of
Henna”; Gabès, the “Gates cinema contributed even Luke Skywalker’s home. There
of the Desert”; Kebili and Douz further to the development are some 700 of these cave
and the “Desert Rose”, Gafsa. of mass tourism. dwellings, half of them inhabi-
It was these locations, ted and some locals earn a
combined with the great living by showing their homes
diversity of the landscape and Star Wars to tourists, many of whom are
the French cultural influence You don’t have to search for fans of the movie. There are
that brought about the rise of it in a distant galaxy or in even some specialized travel
Tunisia’s film industry, as early Hollywood: Tataouine – the agencies offering overnight
as the 1920s. This coincided
with the arrival of foreign film-
makers; Rex Ingram was one of
the first.
Tunisian Cinema
Tunisia swiftly became a magnet
for big-budget film productions
(Tozeur in particular), and
this soon began to affect the
domestic film scene. The epic
productions created a group of
local, world-class technicians,
art directors and extras. Some
Tunisian directors achieved a Remains of scenery from Star Wars, in Matmata
accommodation to lovers of
the science fiction epic; and
there is no shortage of road
signs pointing to Star Wars.
It is to the creator of Star
Wars that Tunisia owes its cine-
matic fame. Lucas arrived here
for the first time in the 1970s
and he was captivated not only
by the scenery and the extra-
ordinary light, but also by the
welcome he received. The
cooperation brought benefits
to both sides and part of the
revenue obtained from ticket
sales for the original Star Wars
movie was set aside to help
the poorest regions of Tunisia. The English Patient with Ralph Fiennes and Kristin Scott Thomas
the sand in Morocco was too Northern Tunisia has even

similar to the American desert, stood in for Japan in Frédéric
and so Tunisia’s Saharan sand Mitterrand’s Madame Butterfly,
proved to be ideal. while other regions
Aficionados of the film of the country – squeezed
can follow in the footsteps of between Libya, Algeria and
The English Patient’s director by the Mediterranean Sea, have
travelling on an early 20th- been used as the Holy Land
century train to the Seldja for Franco Zeffirelli’s Jesus of
Gorge (see p220), or alter- Nazareth. In the early 1950s,
natively by driving a jeep to Tunisia proved the ideal
the mountain oases of Chebika location for the Hollywood
and Tamerza. adaptations of Nobel Prize-
winner Henryk Sienkiewicz’s
novels including Quo Vadis.
Tunisian Locations Steven Spielberg also used
Taieb Jallouli, the art director it to shoot many of the
Scene from the epic film Quo Vadis shot on Star Wars, claims that it is scenes for Raiders of the Lost
near El-Haouaria the diversity of Tunisia’s scen- Ark, while the medina in
ery, within a relatively small Monastir featured in Monty
area, that attracts film-makers. Python’s Life of Brian.
Oscar Winners It was no accident that the
Tunisia also provided about majority of scenes for Roman
80 per cent of the locations Polanski’s Pirates were shot on
for The English Patient, the Sahel coast, a dozen or so
which scooped an impressive kilometres north of Sousse.
nine Oscars at the 1997 Tunisia was once a jumping-off
Academy Awards. point for Mediterranean
The film’s director, Anthony corsairs and the base of the
Minghella, set up camp on famous Red Beard (Barbarossa).
the banks of Chott el-Jerid, Today, Port el-Kantaoui, packed
a vast dry salt lake about with luxury yachts, is a place
45 km (28 miles) from Tozeur. where visitors can eat the best
Cairo has changed too much fish in Tunisia, and also set sail
over the years for a period on board one of the caravels
drama, so the city scenes set from Polanski’s film. Although
in the 1930s were shot in the the original vessels were
medinas of Tunis and Mahdia. bought by a Frenchman
In other scenes, Sfax stands immediately after filming
in for Tobruk. The most was completed, their replicas
important location of all, provide an exciting chance to
however, was the desert. The “swashbuckle”, particularly for
film’s creators decided that Polanski shooting Pirates on Tunisia’s coast younger would-be pirates.
Handicrafts in Tunisia
Tunisian handicrafts get support from the government
and provide employment for over 120,000 people. Each
region has its own speciality: Kairouan is famous for its
carpets; Nabeul and Djerba for their ceramics; Sidi Bou
Saïd for its birdcages; Douz and Tozeur for shoes. It tends
to be women who produce the carpets, decorate
pottery, and weave baskets and mats while the men
attend to carpentry, metalwork and, above all, selling.
Carpets
Tunisian carpets are mainly pro-
duced in Kairouan and Jerid. All Carpet from Kairouan, with traditional
are handmade but there are two Berber patterns
basic types, those that are knot-
ted and those that are woven. most medinas, men can be
The knotted variety cost more seen bent over hammers
and have up to 160,000 knots and copper sheets, which
per square metre. Most of the they shape into bowls, trays
designs tend to be based on a and garden ornaments.
central diamond shape that is Bronze is used for making
thought to derive from the lamp jewellery boxes and jugs
in the Great Mosque in Kairouan. with distinctive narrow
Knotted carpets come in two necks. Intricate birdcages are
main types: Alloucha and Zarbia. also plentiful and typically
Zarbia carpets use reds, greens Tunisian; their shapes
and blues while the Alloucha resemble small mausoleums
carpets are produced in beiges, and their patterns are
browns and whites. Woven or borrowed from the
Potter at work at a wheel Mergoum carpets are cheaper moucharabieh – the lattice-
to buy and have Berber origins. work window or screen seen
in traditional Arab houses.
Ceramics Gleaming copper and
The two main centres of Copper and brass plates are also plentiful
ceramics in Tunisia are Nabeul Brass Products and come in a wide variety of
on the Cap Bon peninsula In small workshops, tucked sizes – some are bigger than
and Guellala on the island of away in the narrow streets of dustbin lids.
Djerba. Nabeul is known for
its brightly coloured, glazed
pottery. Much of this is
produced solely for visitors
and it can be very good
quality. The inhabitants of
Guellala cater more for the
home market and their work-
shops offer every type of
utility ware – from items
used for cooling water and
storing food, to enamelled
products and “Ali Baba” jars.
The northern town of Sejnane
and some of the surrounding
villages are famous for a
primitive Berber pottery that
still employs techniques
used in Neolithic times. All
three styles are available
throughout Tunisia. Craftsman decorating brass and copper plates in a souk workshop
Woodwork
Popular wooden items on
sale in Tunisia include salad
bowls and containers for
salad dressing, and wooden
dolls dressed in colourful
clothes. While strolling
through the streets of medinas
or exploring a market it is
worth stepping into a
carpenter’s workshop to see
how they make cupboards,
trunks and traditional
Tunisian doors. The material
used in the north of the
country is mainly olive-tree
wood – suitable for making
bowls and oil containers. In Traditional fabrics woven on looms in a workshop
the south, palm wood is the
most popular material. of headgear and a symbol of
Mosaics Tunisian national identity. The
Mosaic work in Tunisia dates production of mats, baskets
back to Punic times but and fans is also widespread.
flourished with the Roman These are woven using grass
occupation. When artists first and date palm leaves. Increa-
began to produce intricate sing numbers of artists are also
patterns using tesserae – finely returning to the tradition of
polished pieces of brick, glass painting on glass, an art form
and marble – the workshops inspired by Egyptian and Syrian
could not keep up with examples. Items to look out for
demand. Mosaics include beautiful
were used mirrors and
everywhere – intricately
from the floors in decorated glass
public baths, to perfume jars.
Shoemaking at a workshop in Kairouan the domes and The Cap Bon
the walls of public peninsula is
buildings. After Modern mosaic from El-Djem known for the
Leather Goods the 3rd century, production of
Tunisians were once famous they also began to be used authentic perfumes and ess-
for producing saddles though in private homes, which led to ences; orange blossom, rose
sadly these skills have all a distinctive naturalistic and jasmine essences are par-
but died out. Instead, they Tunisian style. ticularly highly valued in Tunisia.
produce ottomans and
furniture upholstery. Other
common products include Other Handicraft
travel bags, wallets, leather Products
jackets, handbags and a Jewellery is popular in Tunisia.
variety of souvenirs. Look It is produced from silver, gold
out for the babouche slippers, and other metals, with precious
with flattened heels, which and semi-precious stones used
are worn mainly in the south in traditional designs. The
of the country. largest jewellery centres
Try to do some shopping include Tunis, Sfax and Djerba.
in a cooperative craft Tabarka produces lovely coral
workshop or a craft village, and amber items. Another
such as Ken Craft Village typically Tunisian product is the
near Bou Ficha in the Sahel chechia – a distintive red
(see p284). These sell quality woollen cap. It was originally
Islamic art and handicrafts worn under the turban, but
at reasonable prices. with time it became an item Making sieves in a souk workshop
TUNISIA THROUGH
THE YEAR
One of the most pleasant times to visit The Tunisian winter can get very cold,
Tunisia is in spring when flowers are in full especially high up in the mountains,
bloom and the temperature has not yet while on the coast the weather can be
reached its summer peak. During summer, damp and rather dreary. Public holidays
the most comfortable place to be is on in Tunisia are mostly bound up with Islam
the coast where sea breezes cool the air. and take place according to the Islamic
By autumn the temperature is starting to calendar (see opposite). Visitors should
lower, making the all-important work of get specific details of festivals and events
harvesting olives a little more bearable. when they are in the country.
Orange Blossom Festival Celebrates the life and customs

(late Mar–early Apr), celebrated of the ksar dwellers, including
in Menzel Bou Zelfa, Nabeul reconstructions of a Berber
and Hammamet. A traditional wedding and scenes from
festival with competitions for everyday life with music and
the best bouquet. camel races.
Octopus Festival, Kerkennah Folk Art Festival, Tataouine.
Islands. A fisherman’s festival This annual festival includes
that involves locals dressing exhibitions of local handicrafts,
up in octopus costumes and folk music, dancing and displays
plenty to eat. of local costumes.
Spring Festival, Sousse. This
international arts festival May
includes traditional concerts, Passover Festival (Apr or May),
shows and theatre. El-Ghriba Synagogue, Djerba.
A big event in the Jewish
April calender, attracting pilgrims
A profusion of spring flowers blooming Festival of the Mountain from all over North Africa.
amid olive trees Oases (late Apr), Midès, The Jerid festival, Nefta and
Tamezret. A grand display of other towns of the region.
Berber culture, including a Festival of traditional art,
Spring Berber wedding ceremony, including concerts, music
Spring is Tunisia’s most colourful body painting with henna, and dance performances.
season, with many flowers in performances of traditional Music Festival, Sfax. Arab
bloom at this time. March and music and horse shows. music concerts including
April are ideal for exploring Ksour Festival, Tataouine. both classical and pop.
the country. The heat is not
oppressive, yet daytime
temperatures rise above 20° C
(68° F). Rains can be heavy but
usually come in the form of brief
showers. The first half of March is
the final opportunity to embark
on a camel trek across the
desert; April brings sandstorms;
May is filled with the scent of
jasmine and the warming seas
herald the arrival of summer.
March
Independence Day (20 Mar).
National holiday that is
celebrated on the anniversary
of the country’s independence,
which was declared in 1956
by the then president
Habib Bourguiba. Independence Day as celebrated in Tataouine
TUNISIA THROUGH THE YEAR 43
The Islamic Calendar

Muslim religious festivals are celebrated in accordance with the lunar calendar, with
each year composed of 12 months and each month of 29 or 30 days. The Muslim year
is 11 days shorter than the Gregorian (Western) year. The dates of festivals depend
upon the sighting of the new moon for the start of a new month. Ramadan – the month
of fasting – is solemnly celebrated. Friday is a holy day; however, in contrast to the
majority of Arab countries, it is not regarded as a public holiday in Tunisia.
Mouled
Aïd el-Adha (“the day of offering”) This is the anniversary of the
This is one of the most important dates in the Muslim Prophet Mohammed’s birth and
calendar. It marks the day when, by divine order, Abraham is celebrated on the 12th day of
prepared to sacrifice his son before Allah interceded by rabi al-aoual, the third month
providing a ram in place of the child. of the Muslim calendar. For the
majority of the population, it
is an occasion for family
gatherings and festivities.
Aïd el-Fitr (“the small festival”)

This festival marks the end of the
month of Ramadan, and begins on
the evening of the last day of the
30-day fast. Custom decrees that
on this day entirely new clothes,
from headscarf to socks, are put
on, and that money is given to
children and people in need.
Ramadan
is the Muslim holy month
when the faithful renew
their covenant with Allah
through fasting during
the hours of daylight. It is
only after the sun has set,
following communal
prayers, that Muslims are
allowed to eat meals
and special sweets.
International Festival of
Bizerte. Month-long festival
of music, art, dance and food.
Nights of La Marsa, La Marsa.
Cultural festival with music
concerts, live theatre and
ballet performances.
International Festival of
Symphonic Music, El-Djem.
Concerts are held in the
amphitheatre, by candlelight.
International Festival,
Carthage. A musical high
point of the year, also featuring
dance, film and theatre.
Republic Day (25 July). The
day commemorating the
Wide, sandy beaches attract many visitors during the summer proclamation of the Tunisian
Republic in 1957.
July
Summer Ulysses Festival (1–25 Jul), August
Summer temperatures on the Houmt Souk. Song and dance Amateur Theatre Festival
coast can reach 40° C (104° F) festival with historic and (late Jul–early Aug), Korba
but the sea breezes temper the mythological themes. (Cap Bon). Presentation of
heat. The south of the country is International Festival of new works by talented
hotter still, and even the nights Classical Theatre, Dougga. Held amateur Arab playwrights.
don’t bring relief. Market stalls at the site of these monumental Women’s Day (13 Aug). The
fill with every variety of Roman excavations. Citizens’ Rights Code was
melon and other fruit and Plastic Arts Festival (22 proclaimed on this day in 1956,
vegetables. Summer in Jul–6 Aug), Mahrès (Sfax). granting, among other things,
Tunisia is the traditional Gallery exhibitions equal rights for men and women.
season for weddings; it is of mainly young Jasmin Road, Bizerte. Festive
also a time when most Tunisian artists. end of Toulon-Bizerte yacht
people visit, filling the Mermaid Festival, race, accompanied by fireworks
hotels and beaches. Kerkennah Islands. and lively stage shows.
Many of the concerts Lively concerts Sponge Festival, Zarzis. Marine
and festivals that are and performances by festival, a day of sponge diving,
staged throughout traditional Tunisian accompanied by folklore shows.
the country take place and Arab artists. Festival of Diving (late Aug),
at this time of year. Falcon from El-Haouaria International Tabarka. Diving displays and
Music Festival, competitions, music concerts.
June Hammamet. Features theatre Sousse Festival. Celebration
Falconry Festival (2nd half of and world music. of the arts.
Jun), El-Haouaria. Flying displays
are accompanied by a traditional
falcon hunt for partridges.
Jazz Festival (late Jun), Tabarka.
One of the most important
events in the Tunisian cultural
calendar, featuring artistes from
all over the world.
Arab Horse Festival, Sidi Bou
Saïd. Horse shows, races, displays
of riding prowess and concerts.
International Malouf Music
Festival, Testour. Concerts of
Arab-Andalusian malouf given
by artists from Arab countries
and Spain.
Kharja Festival, Sidi Bou Saïd.
This religious festival is devoted
to Sidi Bou Saïd, a 13th-century
Islamic Sufi and teacher after
whom the town is named. Traditional music, a common element of Tunisian festivals
Evacuation Day (15 Oct).

Autumn Nationwide celebrations
September can still be baking are held on the anniversary of
hot, especially in the south, the day when the last French
but by October the coastal troops pulled out of Bizerte in
temperature is beginning to 1963. The celebrations are
lower to a comfortable average particularly festive in Bizerte
of around 20° C (68° F). October itself, which hosts its own
is a good time to visit Tunisia as Festival d’Evacuation de
the water is still warm enough Bizerte including street
for swimming and the resorts decorations and parades.
are far quieter. Autumn is
harvest time and the market November
stalls bend under the weight Festival of Ksour, Ksar Ouled
of fresh fruit and vegetables, Soltane. One of a handful of
while the dates are ripening festivals held in this region,
in Kebili, Tozeur and Nefta. presenting the culture and
traditions of the Berbers. It
is accompanied by music,
dancing and varied displays
of traditional customs.
Date Harvest Festival, Kebili.
The end of the date harvest is The International Festival of the Sahara
celebrated with shows, local
music and fairs. of all Tunisian festivals. It provides
International Oases Festival, an opportunity to see many
Tozeur. Celebration devoted to local practices and traditions
the Saharan way of life that is including the preparation of
timed to coincide with the date Bedouin meals, poetry readings,
harvest in this region. The craft and photography
special events include displays exhibitions, camel races and
of some of the local rituals, wedding ceremonies. Tents are
traditional dance, storytelling pitched in the desert and lit by
and ceremonies. torches at night to create a scene
International Festival of the that could have come from the
Sahara (Nov or Dec), Douz. This Arabian Nights. Other countries
September, marking the start of annual event is the most famous participate in the events.
the grape harvest
September
Coralis (6–9 Sep), Tabarka. Festival
of diving and underwater
photography aimed at
promoting the local coral trade.
Wine Festival (late Sep),
Grombalia. The end of the
grape harvest in the heart of
Tunisia’s wine growing region
gives the locals an opportunity
to celebrate.
Wheat Festival (late Sep), Béja.
Harvest festival that is
celebrated in one of the most
fertile regions of the country.
October
International Film Festival,
Carthage. Tunisia’s most
important film festival is held
every two years. Presented
works come from all over the
world, but mainly from Arab
and African countries. Theatre
performances also feature. International Festival of Symphonic Music at El-Djem
Winter
Winter weather is the most
unsettled of all. There are days
when the midday temperature
on the coast and inland rises
above 24° C (75° F); but when
the winds blow, the chill can
be felt not only on Cap Bon,
but also way down in the south.
These conditions discourage
many visitors, and some hotels
and restaurants in tourist resorts
are closed. The end of winter is
usually very sunny, but the Camel market during the International Festival of the Sahara
winter sun gives little in the
way of warmth. January Islamic Calendar Months
The advent of winter is New Year (1 Jan). The European Medina Festival (Ramadan),
marked in many regions by New Year is celebrated only in Tunis. A major festival in the
festivals celebrating the end the major cities. Celebration of capital that includes numerous
of the olive and date harvests. the Muslim New Year is equally pop and traditional music
These are fairly low-profile quiet and occurs later. concerts, dance, poetry, Koran-
events, and apart from the The Dakar Rally. This major reciting competitions and
Douz and Dakar Rally, are endurance race draws many religious processions.
unlikely to draw large crowds big-name teams and motoring Aïd el-Adha. This is a major
of visitors. fans every few years when it feast in the Tunisian calendar.
passes through Tunisia. For a It takes place 68 days after the
December few days, off-road cars, end of Ramadan and marks
Olive Festivals, Djerba, Mahdia, motorcycles and trucks pass the day when Abraham, under
Kairouan, Kalaa Kebira. The through local towns. The rally divine orders, prepared to
production of olives is an route changes each time so that sacrifice his son. The day is
important part of Tunisia’s it can pass through different celebrated throughout the
economy and the end of the sections of the Sahara Desert. Arab world and families who
olive harvest, also celebrated can afford it sacrifice an animal
in other towns, is a big event February as Abraham is believed to have
and always accompanied by a International Instrumental done as a substitute for his
lot of fun. Because of the heavy Festival, Tunis. Annual music son. According to tradition,
work involved in the harvest, event emphasizing North one-third of the meat is
this is a popular festival. African traditions. distributed to the poor while
the remainder is consumed
within the family circle.
Public Holidays
Revolution Day (14 Jan)
Independence Day
(20 Mar)
Youth Day (21 Mar)
Martyrs’ Day (9 Apr)
Labour Day (1 May)
Republic Day (25 Jul)
Women’s Day
(13 Aug), Celebrates the
Citizens’ Rights Code
Eid el Jalala
(Evacuation Day)
(15 Oct)
Aïd el-Fitr
(end of Ramadan)
Harvesting olives in December

The Tunisian Climate

Tunisia lies within the Mediterranean subtropical zone. Its
TUNIS
hot dry summer lasts from May until October. The southern
regions of the country have only two seasons: a long
°C 29
summer and a short, rainy season. The remaining regions 25
21
also have a spring and autumn – although much shorter 14
17
15
than those in Europe. The sweltering summer heat is felt 11
6
throughout the entire country, but particularly in the
mountain valleys, caused by the sirocco wind. The Sahel’s 5 8 10 7
climate is tempered by the sea breeze. In late autumn, hrs hrs hrs hrs
75 31 20 43
cold currents from the Atlantic bring wind and rain.
mm mm mm mm
month Jan Apr Jun Oct
NORTHERN TUNISIA AREA

TUNIS AROUND
NORTHERN GREATER TUNIS
31
°C TUNISIA AND CAP BON AREA AROUND
25
21 TUNIS AND CAP BON
17 16
17
10 °C
8 26 25
20 20
16 17
5 8 11 7 14
10
hrs hrs hrs hrs
182 55 21 7 CENTRAL
mm mm mm mm TUNISIA 6 9 11 8
THE
SAHEL hrs hrs hrs hrs
85 40 4 50
mm mm mm mm
CENTRAL TUNISIA
36
THE SAHEL
°C 28 DJERBA AND
25
13
THE MEDENINE 31
AREA °C
17 16 26
13 23 23
8 17 20
14
9
6 9 10 7
hrs hrs hrs hrs SOUTHERN
6 8 11 7
14 20.1 2 20,2 TUNISIA
hrs hrs hrs hrs
mm mm mm mm
38 21 3 47
mm mm mm mm
SOUTHERN TUNISIA DJERBA AND THE

MEDENINE AREA
0 km 75
36 31 32 28
°C 28 0 miles 75 °C
24 23
21 20
16 16 17 16 18
Maximum average
8 8
daily temperature
8 9 11 8 Minimum average 7 10 12 8
hrs hrs hrs hrs daily temperature hrs hrs hrs hrs
1 5 0.7 19 29 10.5 1 39
mm mm mm mm Average daily hours of sunshine mm mm mm mm
month Jan Apr Jun Oct month Jan Apr Jun Oct
Average monthly rainfall
INTRODUCING TUNISIA 49
THE HISTORY
OF TUNISIA
The rich cultural and social heritage that can be found in modern-day Tunisia
is largely due to the major powers that have inhabited this area, including the
Phoenicians, the Romans, the Vandals, the Arabs and the French. Tunisia is one
of the oldest countries in Africa and the name given to it by the Romans –
Ifriqiyya – came to designate the entire continent.
The earliest prehistoric humans most indicates that the people of this period
probably appeared here during the early had probably developed some form of
Palaeolithic era, and primitive stone tools religious belief and practised various
discovered near Kebili in the south date rituals, such as burials, although it is
this early activity to about 200,000 years now difficult to determine their nature.
ago. At this time the climate was very It is from these early people that the
different and the area that is now called Berbers (the indigenous non-Arab North
the Sahara had regular rainfall and may Africans) are probably descended.
well have been covered in forest. From Information about Berber culture and
these early beginnings evolved the religious beliefs prior to the arrival
Aterians, who were able to make and of the Phoenicians in 1100 BC is scarce.
use specialized tools. The Aterians were Their name derives from the Greek word
followed, about 10,000 years ago, by “barbaroi” – meaning anyone who could
fair-skinned tribes from western Asia not speak Greek. The majority of Berbers
who brought with them the ability to lived in family-based tribal societies,
make flint tools. These Capsian people, were nomadic and spoke a language
named after archaeological finds near that belongs to the Hamitic group of
Gafsa (which was earlier known as Capsa), languages. Roman expansion impinged
settled in southern Tunisia and developed on their freedom and, because of their
a sophisticated culture with a language intense spirit of independence, the
and early forms of art. They lived here Berbers have often found themselves
until about 4500 BC and, as well as being in conflict with the dominant power
hunter-gatherers, began to develop throughout Tunisia’s history. In the wake
forms of agriculture, domesticating of the Arab invasion of Tunisia in 643,
several species of animals. In addition, the Berbers had their lands seized,
the discovery of a number of early and their ancient religious beliefs and
archaeological sites and engravings language came under serious threat.
9000–4000 BC Capsian civilization arrives in North Africa.

100,000–40,000 BC Neanderthal Named after implements discovered near Gafsa, Capsian
man appears in Tunisia man is distinguished by the use of sophisticated flint tools
and early forms of art
150,000 BC 50,000 BC 10,000 BC 5000 BC 2500 BC 1100 BC
1100 BC Phoenician
10,000–8000 BC Homo sapiens sailors establish trading
appear in the region of Gabès and outposts in Tunisia
on the northern edges of the Tell
Flint arrowheads
Picture of Hannibal fighting a Roman legion in the Alps

Carthage
The foundation of Carthage is linked to
Dido, Princess of Tyre. Persecuted by her
brother, Pygmalion, who murdered her
husband, she fled her homeland. Having
arrived at what is now Tunisia, she pleaded
with the local chieftain, Labus, to give her a
piece of land big enough to be covered by
the hide of a bull. Dido cut the hide into
narrow strips and used them to encircle the
Phoenician traders sailing around the Mediterranean Sea area that later became the site of
Carthage’s fortress – Byrsa.
The Phoenicians The history behind this
The so-called Punic period (the name city is rather more
given to 128 years of war between the prosaic than the
Phoenicians and the emerging Roman legends allow. The
Empire) began about 814 BC with the Phoenicians, wanting
founding of Carthage. The Phoenicians secure staging posts
were supreme sailors and colonized many along the trade route
islands and coastal regions, which they between Tyre (in Phoenician
terracotta mask
established as trading posts. They built new modern-day Lebanon)
towns, mostly on craggy headlands, with and silver mines in
two harbours – to the north and south, southern Spain, needed a presence on the
so that they could be used Tunisian coast. The
regardless of the wind outpost soon grew into a
direction and the season of powerful state that took
the year. As the compass control of the trading
had not yet been invented, posts, which were remote
they had to navigate by the and scattered over a large
stars – mainly by Ursa Minor, area. In the 7th century
the Little Bear. Their longest BC, the Carthaginians
sea voyage was the were strong enough to
circumnavigation of Africa, take control of Tyre in
which was accomplished on the west and began
the orders of the Egyptian establishing colonies for
pharaoh Nechon, in 600 BC. themselves. By the 4th
An account of this historic century BC, Carthage had
voyage can be found in the become an independent
writings of Herodotus. Numidian mausoleum in Dougga state. Carthage’s wealth
814 BC Punic era – founding of Carthage by the Phoenicians. Development

of new towns; major centres include Acholla, necropolis in Mahdia,
Hadrumètum (Sousse), Kerkouane, Hippo Diarrhytus (Bizerte). Tanit
and Baal Hammon are the most popular deities in Carthage
1100 BC 1000 BC 900 BC 800 BC 700 BC

975–942 BC 654 BC First
1000–1100 BC Phoenician 1000–900 BC The oldest examples Punic colony
Earliest Phoenician economy of Phoenician writing established
settlements flourishes under on Ibiza
the rule of Hiram I, (Balearic Islands)
King of Tyre Sphinx-shaped vase
THE HISTORY OF TUNISIA 51
grew and its culture flourished, and at its

peak this important Phoenician metropolis
had a population of about 500,000.
Phoenician colonization was purely
commercial and did not involve any
military conquests, but the success of
Carthage, which had a strong navy and
a firm grip on trade throughout the 5th
and 4th century, inevitably threatened to
eclipse other powers, especially Rome. Dido Building Carthage by J M W Turner
The first Punic War began in 263 BC when
Rome embarked on a campaign to take Carthaginian general Hannibal had earlier
control of Sicily, 80 km (50 miles) northeast captured a region of Spain. Then, in 218,
of Carthage. These two major powers he crossed the Alps with a 90,000-strong
fought each other for the next 20 years army and 37 elephants and launched what
until Rome managed to destroy the would turn out to be an unsuccessful
Carthaginian fleet off Trapani (western assault on Rome.
Sicily) and forced Carthage to surrender. The third Punic War began in 149 BC
The second Punic War began in 218 BC. when the Romans landed in Utica (now
This time it was Carthage that went on the Utique) and laid siege to Carthage. The
offensive. With Rome for the time being mighty city fell three years later and was
busy with its new conquests, Carthage had destroyed. The Romans took possession
turned its attention to its position in Africa. and the former territory of Carthage
In an attempt to force Rome’s hand, the became the Roman province of Africa.
Reconstruction of ancient Carthage, from the Phoenician period
600 BC Phoenicians 111–106 BC

circumnavigate Africa on Romans wage
the orders of the Egyptian war against
pharaoh, Nechon 300 BC Carthage takes control of Numidia Stone tablet with the Numidian
Phoenician writing King Jugurtha
600 BC 500 BC 400 BC 300 BC 200 BC 100 BC
500–400 BC 263–241 BC First Punic War 149–146 BC 146 BC Founding of the

Carthage
Third Punic War, first Roman colony –
becomes an
ending with Africa, with its centre in
independent
218–202 BC Second Punic War. Hannibal crosses the Alps the destruction Utica. Agriculture and
state
with elephants. Carthaginians are finally defeated in Africa of Carthage architecture flourish
The Romans (AD 69–96), Rome

The destruction of Carthage continued with its southerly
in 146 BC was followed by expansion. The building
the foundation of the Roman and maintenance of
province of Africa, with its roads assisted with the
capital in Utica (now Utique) – development of trade
a former Punic colony. This and communication.
was the first Roman colony Agriculture became
outside Italy and covered the increasingly important to
territory of northeastern the area and the Romans
Tunisia. The land captured turned the wheat-growing
from Carthage became ager plains of the Medjerda
publicus – state-owned land Roman triumph following the Valley into a “bread-basket”,
on which a tribute was levied. defeat of Hannibal with the region supplying
Only the towns that had some 60 per cent of the
surrendered to the Romans during the war Empire’s requirements for grain. This
were exempt. In 44 BC, the “infernal land”, produced a golden age for the African
now dedicated to the goddess Juno, economy. Its wealth was based on the
became the site of Julia Carthage. The cultivation of corn and olives, and
former city was resurrected and also on its vineyards. Many locals,
became the capital of this part of the including the Berbers, prospered
world for several centuries. In 27 BC, a under the new regime and a number
new consular province was created – of colonies sprang up on the Tunisian
Africa Proconsularis – with a resident coastline that provided holiday
proconsul in Carthage. It covered A marble bust from and retirement homes for wealthy
the area from Cyrta in the west to the Roman era Romans. With so much Roman
Cyrenaica in the east. After the years influence this part of Africa
of wars, the reign of Octavian Augustus underwent a gradual process of
brought with it stability and created a Romanization. Roman towns sprang up
new climate for economic development. everywhere. Religious buildings were
During the period of the Flavian dynasty erected to honour gods such as Juno
and Minerva. Nearly one-sixth of Roman
senators were of African origin at this
time. Africa even provided an Emperor,
the Libyan-born Septimius Severus.
The smooth running of the African
economy was briefly upset in 238 when
Gordian, the proconsul of Africa, proclaimed
Roman amphitheatre at El-Djem himself emperor in a gesture of defiance
27 BC Founding of Africa
Proconsularis, covering most of 69–96 Flavian 238 Revolt in Africa
modern-day Tunisia, up to Chott dynasty – the Proconsularis, led by the
el-Jerid (not including the Sahara) country flourishes Gordians (father and son)
100 BC AD 1 100 200
193–235 Peak of the

96 Beginning of territorial expansion under 284 Emperor
Antonine dynasty – the Severan dynasty. Diocletian carries
Relief from a golden age for the Strengthening of borders out reform plans –
Chimtou African economy and building of defensive Africa becomes
region walls around many cities Dioecesis Africae
the audacity to carry out one of the most

daring deeds imaginable at that time: the
plunder of Rome in 455.
Byzantium
The political make-up of the Roman
Empire was changed forever with the
adoption of Christianity by Constantine
the Great in 312. Much of Rome’s power
was transferred to Byzantium (Istanbul),
Ruins of the forum in Sufetula which was to control the eastern portion
of the Roman Empire.
against the heavy taxes imposed by Rome. In 533 the Byzantine Emperor Justinian,
Gordian sent his son, Gordian II, into battle who dreamt of reasserting Roman
against Capellianus, the governer of authority, sent his general Belisarius to
Numidia, who was loyal to Rome. Gordian II attack the Vandals at the Battle of Ad
was killed on the battlefield and, on Decinum, near present-day Tunis. Belisarius
hearing of his death the father killed had a swift and decisive victory and on
himself. He had ruled for just 21 days. 15 September 533 he entered Carthage.
The next century of Byzantine rule was
The Vandals more troubled. Despite building heavy
One of Rome’s biggest challenges during fortifications, constant Berber resistance
the 4th and 5th centuries was the Vandals, and insurrection in the army meant that
a fierce tribe of Aryan the Byzantine hold on Tunisia was weak.
barbarians who had
been slowly but
surely working
their way through
Spain and into Africa.
Byzantine-style In AD 429 the Vandals
column decoration arrived in Africa and
began demolishing
much of what the Romans had built. In 439,
they seized Carthage, which became the
capital of a new state that covered the area
of present-day Tunisia. Its founder, Genseric,
ruled for half a century (428–477) building
the Vandal empire and expanding it further
into Sicily, Sardinia and Italy. He also had A mosaic from the Byzantine period
698 Carthage taken

439 Carthage conquered over by Arab forces
by the Vandals Belisarius – commander
of Emperor Justinian’s army
300 400 500 600 700
533 Carthage occupied 647 Beginning of 670 Founding

by Byzantine army the Muslim era. of Kairouan by
Byzantine army Oqba ibn Nafi
A stele with an image defeated at Sufetula
of Baal-Saturn
Christian Tunisia
Christianity arrived in Africa from Rome and was taken up
by many people in Tunisia, including some of the Berber
tribes. Thousands of Christian converts were martyred
during the third century, including St Perpetua who was
thrown to the animals in Carthage. A split in the church
occurred in the 4th century when Donatus, the Bishop of
Carthage, refused to recognize the authority of church
leaders who had failed to stand up to Rome. These Christian monogram
“Donatists” built their own churches and many Roman This was created by combining the
letters X and P. It was used following
sites in Tunisia have two churches for this reason. the Tolerance Edict (4th century).
The apse of a forum

The door of every
basilica was used to
Christian church has a
seat the officials; the
symbolic meaning.
emperor sat in the
imperial basilica.
St Augustine
Augustine (AD 354–430) spent his youth in
Carthage and later returned there as a priest
and bishop. He also participated in synods.
Christian tombstones
Tombstones
were usually
in the form
of inscribed
tablets.
Tombstones
that bear
images of
the deceased
are quite rare.
Mosaics
This unique mosaic, kept in the Bardo Museum,
Tunis, shows a Christian church. It gives some
idea of the original appearance of the early
churches whose ruins can be seen in many
of Tunisia’s oldest towns.
The Greek
language
Early Christians
used the Greek
language in
their liturgy and
writing. The first
Christian text
in Latin was
written in
AD 180 in Africa.
Ruins of Basilicas
Many Tunisian towns contain the ruins of Christian
basilicas that were built in the town centres or on the
outskirts, often on the sites of earlier sacred buildings.
Floor mosaics in Inscriptions were

basilicas included rich often incorporated
animal and floral motifs. into the mosaics.
Baptistry
Pools decorated with mosaics were used
by Christians in their baptisms.
Inscriptions
Many of the surviving
Christian inscriptions are
on tombstones that bear
only the name of
the deceased and the
simplest of ornamentation.
A peacock featured
in Christian tomb
mosaics symbolized
resurrection.
The Good Shepherd

By the 2nd century AD
Christianity was already
widespread in North Africa.
The image of the Good
Shepherd was among the Catacombs
most popular motifs in A well-preserved underground resting
Christian art. place can be seen in Sousse.
Arab Rule
One hundred years after the death of
Mohammed (632), the Muslim Empire
stretched from Spain to India. The first strong
resistance encountered by the Muslim
army was in the area of present-day Tunisia.
The attacks on Ifriqiyya (Tunisia and parts of
Libya) started immediately after the
conquest of Egypt (640–43); nevertheless it
took more than 20 years to win control over Muslim cemetery outside the ancient medina walls, Kairouan
it. This was finally achieved by Oqba ibn Nafi
after he defeated the Byzantine army in 647. only during the years 693–700 that the
In 670, he founded the city of Kairouan, governor Hassan ibn Nu’man (founder of
which became the most Arab Tunis) quashed the Berbers’ resistance
important town in North and confirmed Arab rule. The work of Ibn
Africa and an excellent Nu’man was continued by Musa ibn Nusair.
base for military Under his rule, Kairouan gained indepen-
operations against the dence from Egypt and was controlled directly
Berber tribes. Oqba, who by Damascus. Having conquered the coast
according to a legend of North Africa, Ibn Nusair opened the
went forward until the gateway to Europe. In 800, power in Ifriqiyya
Atlantic waves stopped passed to the hands of the independent
A page from the his horse, was killed in deputies of the Abassid Caliphs – the
Koran (1202)
683 near Biskra (eastern Aghlabids. The founder of this dynasty was
Algeria). After his death, the Muslim army Ibrahim ibn al-Aghlab who made Kairouan
was forced to leave Ifriqiyya and it was the capital of a region that covered western
Courtyard of the 11th-century Sidi Driss Mosque, Gabès
800–909 Expansion of Islam.

921 Founding of Mahdia,
Founding of the Aghlabid dynasty, Doorway to the Great
which becomes the
which rules the country from its Mosque’s minaret
country’s capital
capital in Kairouan in Kairouan
700 800 900 1000 1100
909–972 The Fatimids assume

1056–1147 Period
power and rule for a period
of rule by the
Golden coin, before moving to Egypt
Almoravid dynasty
from the 972–1152 Founding of the Zirid dynasty and their
Aghlabid period assumption of power. Raid by the Banu Hilal tribe
Algeria, Tunisia and part of skill enabled them to play

Libya. The resulting dynasty the Tunisian tribes off
proved to be successful. against one another. This,
This period of Aghlabid rule and a reputation for military
saw Ifriqiya move away prowess, which was partly
from a Romano- Christian earned when they defeated
heritage as its Muslim a crusade led by Louis IX of
identity developed. Marble relief from Mahdia depicting France, led to a period of
a king and a musician stability. Tunis was made the
Fatimids capital and did well under
Towards the end of the 9th century, the the new regime, enjoying a new-found
main threat to the Aghlabids came from wealth. Separate districts were allocated to
the increasingly strong opposition move- Muslim refugees from Spain, European
ments that centred around the Shiite groups. diplomats and merchants. The Great Mosque
One of the leaders of this movement was (Jemaa el-Zitouna) acquired a medersa
Abu Abdullah, who claimed descent from and a minaret, and a palace was built on
the Prophet’s daughter, Fatima. Abu the site of the present Bardo Museum.
Abdullah was a gifted commander and in At the same time, the Great Mosque in
909 the Aghlabids were defeated; a little Kairouan was restored.
later he conquered Alexandria. The Fatimids
constructed a new capital, Mahdia, and set Ottoman Rule
about making plans to capture Egypt. It was the arrival of the Ottoman Turks
Abu Abdullah’s successors continued this that spelt the end for the Hafsid dynasty.
policy of expansion. Having conquered The Ottomans had fought wars with
Egypt, they handed control of Ifriqiya to Byzantine Rome, which they finally
their Berber nominee, who went on to defeated, taking Constantinople in 1453.
found the Zirid dynasty (972–1152), which
withdrew allegiance from the Fatimids in
1041. There followed a period of great
instability. The Zirids were overthrown by
the Almoravids, who ruled the Maghreb
and Spain from 1056 until 1147. They were
followed by the Almohads, who, in their
turn, were replaced by the Hafsid dynasty.
Hafsids
The Hafsids (1233–1574) introduced wide-
ranging changes beneficial to the economy Death of Louis IX during a plague epidemic in Tunisia, in 1270,
of present-day Tunisia. Their great political after his unsuccessful crusade
1159–1230 The 1240 The first medersa 1574 Spanish withdraw from Tunisia. Tunis is
Almohads unite the (Islamic school) partially destroyed in the course of fighting.
Maghreb countries established in Tunis Tunisia is seized by the Ottoman Turks
1200 1300 1400 1500 1600
1233–1574 Tunis is ruled 1270 1574 Rise of the corsairs: with the assistance of the
by the Hafsid dynasty. Art Crusade by Barbary pirates, Aruj and Khair ed-Din Barbarossa,
and architecture flourish Louis IX Tunisia falls under the control of the Ottoman
Empire. Turkish becomes the official language
King Louis IX
had become the object of a dispute

between Spain and Turkey. From 1534 to
1574, the Spanish kings tried to establish
a protectorate over Tunisia, but were
defeated by the Turks, on land and at sea.
Tunisia became a province of the
Ottoman Empire and was ruled by an
elaborate hierarchy which included the
Pasha (the sultan’s representative) and an
elite of Ottoman high-ranking army
officials, including a civil administrator
(bey), and a military administrator (dey).
Such complex sharing of power did not
result in a stable government, and
rebellions and struggles for control
weakened the state. Central rule was
restored by the Muradids (1628–1702), the
Genoese fort guarding the entrance to Tabarka harbour first line of hereditary beys, who brought
about the country’s revival. They also
During the 16th century, the dynasty ruled enriched its art with Ottoman influences
over a powerful empire that included the and popularized the habit of coffee drinking.
Balkans and Arab countries. The golden era
of the Ottoman Empire coin- Husaynids
cided with the rule of Suleyman The Muradid line was replaced by the
the Magnificent (1520–66). During Husaynids in the early part of the 18th
that time the Ottomans also century when Husayn bin Ali took control
took control of Tunisia of the country and
with the help of established a new
mercenaries. In the dynasty that would
16th century the rule until 1957.
corsairs, sailing under Having no sons, Bin
the Ottoman flag, won Ali at first appointed
control of the entire his nephew, Ali, to
Maghreb coast. Assisted be his successor in
Ottoman-style finial
of a minaret by the Barbary pirates – 1709. However, in
Aruj and Khair ed-Din the same year a
Barbarossa – Tunisia was taken. In the later son, Mehmed, was
stages of the Hafsids’ rule, the country, born. When he Ceramic decoration with
ruined by numerous dynastic squabbles, reached maturity, a plant motif
1606 Growth of Tunisian

piracy due to European 1705 Founding of the Husaynid 1744 Beys win greater
renegades, many of whom dynasty. Stabilization of the country powers, gaining freedom
convert to Islam from Turkish domination
1600 1625 1650 1675 1700 1725
1628 Beginning of 1605–1691 Outbreaks

Muradid rule, which of the plague occur 1705 Increase in the
brings with it a in Maghreb every six country’s population. An
period of political to 12 years end to the run of bad luck
stability in Tunisia in the production of grain
Turkish-style coffee pot
his father made Mehmed defeated Ottoman Empire.

his heir and gave him The country was now
the title of Bey Mahalli. bankrupt and it was
The nephew was only a matter of time
given the title of before one power or
Pasha. This situation another stepped in.
led to five years of In 1881, with the
conflict during spurious excuse that
which Tunisian they were protecting
society was split into French-occupied Algeria
two camps, a division from raids by Khroumirie
that lasted, in political terms, tribesmen, France sent 30,000
well into the 18th century. A plate with a stylized image troops across the border into
Initially Ali Pasha had the of an antelope Tunisia from Algeria. The
upper hand, but the troops swiftly took control
descendants of Husayn bin Ali regained first of Le Kef and then of Tunis. The initial
power with support from Algeria. During opposition was intense but short-lived
the second half of the 18th century, the and the same year the Treaty of the Bardo,
country was successively ruled by three of signed with Mohammed el-Sadiq Bey,
his descendants, including Husayn’s two recognized the bey as the nominal ruler,
sons, Ali Bey (1759–81) and Hammouda with the proviso that France was in
Bey (Pasha) (1781–1813). Under their rule ultimate control.
the country prospered for a
brief period but in 1819 Tunisia
was forced to put an end to
piracy, thus depriving it of
revenue. The country ran up
large debts and so taxes on
agriculture and trade were
increased to make up for the
shortfall. The economy suffered
and Tunisia was forced to
borrow heavily from European
(mainly French) banks.
Tunisia’s fate was sealed at
the Berlin Congress in 1878,
which had been called by
the Europeans to decide how
best to carve up the recently Tunisian section at the 1851 London Exhibition
1819 1836 France becomes

Tunisia the advocate and the
Depiction of Carthage in outlaws guarantor of Tunisia’s
the early 19th century piracy independence
1750 1775 1800 1825 1850 1875
1814 Death of Hammouda Bey marks the 1855–56

end of the Husaynid’s “golden age” Tunisian army
suffers heavy
1824–25 Tribal revolts break out in rural regions of losses in the
Tunisia: trade collapses, peasant poverty increases Crimean War
The Colonial Era

The French had always attached great
importance to the Maghreb – Tunisia,
Algeria and Morocco. The history of their
trade links, treaties and agreements made
with these countries stretched back over
three hundred years prior to taking control.
Tunisia’s loss of independence was
followed by reform of the central
government, which, while preserving the The walls of Tunis as seen in the mid-19th century
Muslim administration with Sidi Ali Bey at
its head, placed it under the control of the Early Independence Movement
French civil service. On assuming the These blessings of civilization served only
protectorate, the French made a number the country’s elite, however. A negative
of key investments. By 1914, they aspect was the purchase of
had built olive oil refineries, land by rich Europeans. As a
schools and hospitals and had result, many Tunisian peasants
also embarked on the task of were forced out to the poorer
extending the railway network areas of the country, and the
linking Tunis with Algeria, and traditional way of life of stock-
Sousse with Sfax. In Tunis, they keeping shepherds began to
Souk in Tunis in the early
extended La Goulette harbour 19th century disappear. At the same time,
and commenced the rapid some 80,000 Tunisian troops
development of the Ville Nouvelle fought in World War I – 10,000 died.
(modern town) to which they moved A struggle for independence was linked
most of the major government offices. to growing national awareness, which in
turn was brought about by better
education within Arab society as a
whole. One of the fathers of Arab
nationalism was Jemeladdin
al-Afghani whose ideology had a
great influence on Tunisian activists.
Two of the main architects of
Tunisia’s rebirth were Kheiredine
Pasha (d.1889) and Sheikh
Mohammed Kabadu (d.1871),
who initiated a number of reforms
of the religious tribunal and the
Sidi Ali Bey and his ministers Zitouna theological university.
1881 Establishment of the French 1892 One-fifth of the area used for
Protectorate (12 May). Resistance cultivation of olives is taken over
movement fights against French rule by French settlers
1880 1890 1900 1910
1890–1914 Building of new

schools, hospitals and railway “Arabic” pavilion
lines (Tunis–Sfax, Tunis–Gabès) in Paris in 1900,
promoting
the appeal
Tunisian Army generals of Tunisia
Kheiredine also founded the Sadiki College

in 1875, an institution that was to play
an important role in the cultural and
intellectual life of Tunisia.
The college produced many of the
later advocates of modernization of the
country, as well as members of the
“Unbreakable Bonds” society, founded in
Tunis in 1885, which cooperated with the
Egyptian reform movement. In April 1885,
the first public national demonstration Façade of the town hall in Sfax
took place in Tunis, organized by Mohammed
as-Sanusi. At that time the activists tactics and commenced an intensive
demanded not so much independence struggle through the media, aimed in
as permission for Muslims to have their particular at the urban population.
say in the running of the country. The Social unrest continued and the year
French authorities arrested the leaders. 1920 saw the foundation of the Tunisian
The Tunisians were forced to change their Constitutional Party, commonly known as
Destour. It demanded a constitution, and
access to all state offices for Tunisians, as
well as public education. Ten years later,
a new generation of activists came to
prominence. Among them was a young
lawyer, Habib Bourguiba. He founded a
newspaper, L’Action Tunisienne, and used it
to launch a struggle against the authorities.
In March 1934, Bourguiba founded the
Neo-Destour Party with the main aim of
fighting for the country’s independence.
He drew massive support and the French,
sensing the danger, declared the party
illegal and had Bourguiba arrested, though
he was later released. By 1938, however,
popular resistance to French rule had
became widespread. Just before the
outbreak of World War II, Bourguiba
was arrested again, but by the time
the authorities had acted against the
French poster advertising Tunisia’s attractions nationalists the war had already begun.
1926 French decree

puts an end to 1932 Habib Bourguiba founds
1920 Founding of daily newspaper L’Action Tunisienne
the Destour Party Tunisian freedom of
the press, gatherings
and associations
1920 1930 1940
1934 Founding of the

1914–1918 Ten Neo-Destour Party
thousand Tunisians are
killed in World War I Cavalry parade during the French prime
minister’s visit to Tunisia in 1939
World War II
Tunisia’s proximity to Italy suddenly had
strategic importance for both sides. Despite
aggressive German propaganda and earlier
French-Tunisian tensions, the Tunisians
came out in support of France and the
Allies. The Germans were supporting the
colonial ambitions of the Italians in Libya
and the Italians, taking advantage of the
situation, were also trying to gain control of
Tunisia. In June 1940, after declaring war on
Britain and France, Italy bombed military
targets in Bizerte and around Tunis. German
forces landed in Tunisia in 1942 while
Rommel’s Afrika Korps conducted a military Allied troops liberate Tunisia in 1943
campaign in the south. The German
authorities also attempted to win Habib Bizerte, Gabès and Tunis suffered various
Bourguiba over to their side, but met with degrees of bombardment. Allied casualties
his firm refusal to cooperate. numbered some 15,000.
Allied forces, commanded by General
Patton (who was soon succeeded by Omar Regaining of Independence and
Bradley) and General Montgomery, began the Bourguiba Regime
their advance into Tunisia in winter 1942. After the war, France tried to relieve the
By liberation in 1943, the country had political tensions persisting in Tunisia. It
suffered heavy losses: Sfax and Sousse were abolished censorship and installed a new
heavily damaged, while other towns like Tunisian government headed by Mustapha
Kaak. But the most decisive
change in Paris’s attitude
towards Tunisian independence
occurred only in 1954, when the
office of French prime minister
was taken over by Pierre
Mendès-France – an advocate of
peaceful solutions to France’s
colonial conflicts. The French
press published an interview
with the imprisoned Habib
Bourguiba and the convention
Habib Bourguiba after the proclamation of independence on Tunisian autonomy was
1942 1959 Tunisian 1964 Bourguiba

Germans 1943 Allied Forces 1956 Regaining Republic gets 1970s Growing
nationalizes land revenues from
invade liberate Tunisia of independence its constitution of remaining
Tunisia (20 Mar) (1 Jun) tourism stimulate
French settlers growth of economy
1940 1950 1960 1970

1957 Proclamation of the
1967 1974 Habib
Tunisian Republic. Habib 1963 French
Bourguiba Bourguiba is
Bourguiba becomes the troops leave
reforms re-elected
first president of Bizerte (15 Oct)
religious as president
independent Tunisia teaching
Bofors gun dating from World War II
signed in June 1955. On 20 March

1956 the country regained its
independence and a year later the
Tunisian Republic was proclaimed.
Bourguiba became the country’s
first president and the leader of the
Neo-Destour Party, which later
restyled itself and changed its name
to Parti Socialiste Destourien (PSD).
Before this, and immediately after Tunisia’s golden beaches act as a magnet to visitors
regaining independence, work
began on drafting a new constitution, Ben Ali
which finally came into force on 1 June Despite a series of reforms and increased
1959. Its preamble affirmed that Tunisia was prosperity from tourism, there was much
a free, independent and sovereign state. social unrest under Bourguiba’s rule. A
Its religion was Islam and Arabic was to be general strike was
given priority in schools and government called in 1984
offices. Its political system was to be a free demanding an
republic. This same constitution granted end to repression
far-reaching powers to the new president. and a revocation
of anti-
constitutional
laws. In October The exiled President Zine
1987, the Minister el-Abidine Ben Ali
of the Interior,
Zine el-Abidine Ben Ali, became the
country’s prime minister. In November he
forced President Bourguiba to resign. Ben
Ali became president and promised a series
of reforms. Towards the middle of 2010,
increasing discontent with the dictatorship
of Ben Ali led to protests in the south of
country. A full-scale revolution was ignited
when street vendor Mohamed Bouazizi set
himself on fire in Sidi Bouzid to protest
against police harassment. In January
2011 Ben Ali fled the country. The first
democratic elections, which took place in
Trade is stimulated by tourist revenue October 2011, saw the victory of Ennadha.
2014 Habib Essid

1987 Prime Minister 2002 Terrorist 2004 Zine becomes Prime Minister
Zine el-Abidine Ben Ali bomb kills el-Abidine Ben Ali
becomes the country’s 22 people is re-elected for 2015 Two terrorist attacks at
president and commander in Djerba a fourth term the Bardo Museum and a
of its armed forces as president beach in Sousse
1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1994 Zine el- 2002 Rule 2009 Zine 2011 Ben Ali goes into exile. The first
Abidine Ben Ali is passed allowing el-Abidine Ben democratic elections take place
re-elected as the president to rule Ali is re-elected
country’s president for five terms for a fifth term 2010 Public protests against
as president government corruption begin
Monument to Bourguiba in Monastir
TUNISIA
REGION BY
REGION
Tunis 68–93
Greater Tunis and
Cap Bon Peninsula 94–125
Northern Tunisia 126–147
The Sahel 148–177
Djerba and the
Medenine Area 178–193
Southern Tunisia 194–215
Central Tunisia 216–245
66 TUNISIA REGION BY REGION
Tunisia at a Glance
Tunisia’s regions differ from one another not only in terms Mediterranean Sea
NORTHERN
of culture, but also in terms of landscape. Travel to the TUNISIA
north and northwest and there are forests, mountains and Tabarka
(See pp126–147)
fertile plains. The central region is known for its historic
Béja
remains dating from the Roman and early Arab eras. Djerba,
the Sahel and Cap Bon peninsula, on the east coast, are
famous for their magnificent beaches, while the southern
section of the country is dominated by great salt flats and
the vast expanse of the Sahara Desert. Le Kef
Maktar
Tabarka is the main
seaside resort of north-
CENTRAL TUNISIA
western Tunisia. It is (See pp216–245)
a picturesque place,
nestling beneath Sbeïtla
mountain slopes.
A tourist zone is being
developed around the
town. This is also a
favourite spot for divers
who come to explore the
offshore rocks and caves.
Gafsa
Tamerza
Chott
el-Gharsa
Tozeur
Tamerza is a fairly new
village north of Tozeur. Chott el-Jerid
Nearby are the ruins of
old Tamerza. Set among
green palm groves, old
Tamerza is a Berber
village that was
abandoned in 1969 after
severe flooding. There
are waterfalls and small
lakes in which to cool off.
Chott el-Jerid is an extraordinary

phenomenon. This vast seasonal
salt-water lake is dry for much of
the year and has salt piles that
glitter with a multitude of
colours. A trip across it is an
unforgettable experience.
Sbeïtla lies southwest of Kairouan

and is worth visiting for the nearby
ruins of Sufetula, an ancient Roman
town that has a number of well-
preserved ruins including
temples and a triumphal arch.
A wonderful sunset in an oasis in the Tunisian desert
T U N I S I A AT A G L A N C E 67
Sidi Bou Saïd is a charming town just a

GREATER TUNIS AND little way to the northeast of Tunis. The
CAP BON PENINSULA whitewashed houses with their blue
(See pp94–125) doors and shutters create a unique
TUNIS
(See pp68–93)
atmosphere and the café-lined cobbled
square has a sense of quiet affluence
Tunis and peace. Set high on a cliff, the village
attracted artists and writers such as Paul
Gulf of Klee and André Gide and was for a time
Hammamet the cradle of modern Tunisian painting.
Sousse Bardo Museum in Tunis is

famous for its magnificent
THE SAHEL collection of Roman artifacts.
(See pp148–177) Among these are some of
El-Djem
the finest mosaics in the
world, which were found
on the sites of ancient
Echrarda
towns, including Bulla
Regia in northern Tunisia.
Sfax
Kerkennah Islands
Sfax is renowned for its

Skhira
medina, one of the most
Gulf of Gabès beautiful in the country.
The 17th-century Dar
Djerba Jellouli houses a museum
with exhibits relating to
the region’s culture.
DJERBA
AND THE
Medenine
MEDENINE AREA
(See pp178–193)
Djerba, just off Tunisia’s southeast
SOUTHERN coast, attracts large numbers of visitors
TUNISIA Tataouine who come to make the most of the mild
(See pp194–215) climate and glorious beaches. Despite
some development, the island has kept
its distinctive culture intact, and many
locals can be seen in traditional dress.
The camel is one of the

symbols of Tunisia. It is
associated mainly with the
Sahara Desert, which was
once crossed by caravans.
0 kilometres 75 Today, a camel trip in the
Sahara, lasting anything from a
0 miles 75
few hours to a few days, is a
popular activity for visitors.
TUNIS
Tunis has a compact city centre, making it easy to explore on foot.
There is plenty to see. The lively medina has fascinating shops and
markets as well as Islamic architecture dating back a thousand
years. The Bardo Museum contains the world’s largest collection
of Roman mosaics, while along Avenue Habib Bourguiba there
are Continental-style cafés and restaurants. Just a little way out
of Tunis lies the ancient site of Carthage.
The history of Tunis goes back to the was a major centre of science, culture
early days of Carthage and it features and religion in North Africa.
on Roman maps dating from the first During the Hafsid era (1228–1574),
Punic War. Destroyed in 146 BC, it was with trade flourishing between Europe
half-heartedly rebuilt by the Romans and the East, Tunis became an Arab
but remained a place of little importance metropolis and by the 13th century
until the arrival of the Arabs in the 7th the Hafsids had made it their capital.
century. Believing it to have a good The Ottoman Turks (1580–1705) saw no
defensive position, Hassan ibn Nu’man, reason to change this and built heavy
who had just ousted the Byzantines from fortifications round the city as well as a
Carthage, decided to build here and sited large number of mosques and palaces.
the medina on a bank of high ground By the 19th century the population was
next to a salt lake. The most significant becoming too numerous to remain inside
work undertaken was the Great Mosque the city walls, so the French drained some
in AD 732 and the city served as the of the nearby marshland to extend the city.
imperial capital during the last years The new part features wide avenues and
of Aghlabid rule. From then on, Tunis some distinctly European architecture.
Place de la Kasbah, paved with local stone

The minaret of the Great Mosque seen through an ornamental arch
Tunis Town Centre

Two worlds are side by side in the centre of
Tunis. On the one hand, there is the historic
district, almost unchanged since medieval
times, on the other, a modern metropolis. The
western area of the centre is occupied by the
medina, full of ancient palaces, mosques,
medersas and souks. The eastern part
comprises the Ville Nouvelle with the National Palm trees and fountain for washing, in the arcaded
Theatre, high-rise buildings, Art Deco houses, courtyard of Sidi Mehrez Mosque
cinemas, a railway station and busy
cafés and bars. DRE
S
N
E LO
N UE D
AV E
I B E L H AO U A N E
UE AL JARDIN
AV E N
PLACE BAB
THAMEUR
SOUIKA
RU
NTES
E S
A
DRA
IK
ID
R O T E S TA
RU
RU
I B
U
E A
B EL-KHA
R UH O U
SO
E RU
E D
A
K
SI LA
E B
IAN
B D
E
I AB
BA
S
M
I
IR
RUE DES P
SA
EH
ST
E R
LI
A
RU
RUE BA
SO
N
NE
O
EZ
-M
S
UI
EL
K
E
RU
A
RU
SI
E
RU
Habib Thameur
D
I
E
D
ES
IM
A
LTA
I
A
UT
H
HD
RA
SR
RUE MA
CH
NO
IB DES
DI R E
BOU
E D
IDEK
O
GLA
AR
SI RU
U
E CI
GH
ÈR
U
R
RU E
EM
RU
E
RUE
DI
RU
S
E
SI
DU
SAB DU RS
NEU
ON
E
RE
RU TA N
T RI BU NA
DES
RU
RUE
GI SLIM
E
SID
AL I
M M ED
I K
O HA
L
SO
RU E M
AD
UK
OU
UN
S
EL
HA KO
AR
L'AG
G
RU E Z
RA
E
D
NC E
E FRA
N
BO
E
RU
A V. D
A
U
LE
RUE
RUE SAIDA PLACE DE LA

JAR AH
VA
SB VICTOIRE
LAH
A
KA
JO
CHA
IR
EB
AR
RU
RD
RU LA
U
RUE DE LA COM
LA
E S
OUZ
E
RLES
D
BA
ID
RU
E
I E
K EL
U
E
B
R
DE G
L M
SI
D
BE
SO U
I
O
BE
AULL
RJ
N
RU
N
AN
AT
MISS ION
A
D
RO
E
ES
E
U
N
UK RI
TA
S
S OT TA
M
SO
-A
IS
EL
UK
NE
SO
PA G
UK D ’E S
EL
UK
UQ
RU
SOTRO RUE
-B
E
PLACE DE
EY
-
EL
EL
SI
LA
DI
BEN ZIAD
BL
RU
KASBAH
AT
E E
E
FA ERR
EF
L
LET
-M
-L NG
EL D’A
RUE
AK
K
OU
RU
S
TA
RU
URDO
E
RU
R
TOU
RU
E S
E E
E D
SIE
RBE
ESSO
O RUS
B
IDI
U DE
E
L J
RUE
T EL
SA
LE
BO
H
SIDI
VA I EK
N
H
U M
R OC
AC
D
-B
B AR
RD L-C
A
ACEM
ZIR
A UM
EY
EE
LO
EL ED
RUE
RU RU
ND
U
E
S
U
BA
SIDI K
R
IL
RU
E
CH
E
B M
RI
D
RU
DU
ES
RUE
E
E
TE
RU
AB
RUE
EN
IN
TU
IE
BA
RI
ER
ARA
ER
A
ENN
S
DE
K I
I EL
-B G
AT
S
SID
SAN
EN RUE
’A
M JU
GE
RU
S
PER
EL
E
E
E
RU
BE
E
RU
E D
N
AY
RU
ED
Fragment of a mosaic from the AV E N U E B A B J E D I D

Bardo Museum
TUNIS 71
Sights at a Glance
Areas, Streets and Squares t Dar ben Abdallah
6 Place du Gouvernement y Tourbet el-Bey
w Rue Jemaa Zitouna i Dar Hussein
e Bab el-Bahr o Dar el-Haddad
a Rue du Pasha d Dar Lasram
s Rue de la Hafsia g Hôtel Majestic
k Avenue Habib Bourguiba j Théâtre Municipal
z Belvedere Park c Bardo Museum pp92–3
Markets Religious Buildings

République 3 Souk et-Trouk 1 The Great Mosque (Zitouna
PLACE DE LA
RÉPUBLIQUE 7 The Great Souk Mosque) pp74–5
0 Souk el-Attarine 2 The Three Medersas
R
l Main Market 4 Sidi Youssef Mosque

EU
8 Hammouda Pasha Mosque

AM
Museums and Historic Buildings u Medersa Mouradia

TH
5 Dar el-Bey p Kasbah Mosque

AVE
BIB
GAN
DHI 9 Tourbet of Aziza Othmana f Sidi Mehrez Mosque
NUE
HA
RUE
q National Library h Cathedral
AV
R TE
PA
r Dar Othman x Jellaz Cemetery
E
E S
EN
AV
RU E
L ENIN
DE
RUE
UE
RUE
Ibn
JE
Rachiq
DE M
Getting Around
A
N
AR
A
The most convenient way of
J
U
SEIL
PARI
RÈ
S exploring Tunis is on foot.
RUE
LE
RUE KA
HA The buses and trams can be

DU C
S
AC
AS P
NAH
MEL AT
RUE crowded, but are useful for

AIR
TGM Train Station

500 metres (550 yards) reaching sites further out,
RUE D’ALGER
TATURK
such as the Bardo Museum.

IBA
RGU The TGM train’s main station
BOU IBA
HAB
IB
O U RGU is at the end of Avenue
B
RUE
UE IB
AV EN HAB Habib Bourguiba and links
UE TA J
AV E N
ZI Z
AV E N
ED A
the centre of Tunis to the
DETU
OH AMM
LT M
RUE
RUE DU
RU E
G O SL
A V IE suburbs. See pp318–19 for
RUE
OU
DE Y
DE G
UE
RUE
RQU
more details.
18 JANV
IB N K
R
BAK
RUE
RUE
BOU
RÈ
A
SA ID
RUE
CE
IE
HA
IER 19
DE H
GN E
EMA Farhat
LD O U
L
D’AL
JAM
DE
RUE HED Hached

HAC
52
OL
AT
FA R H
N
LAN
UE
AV E N
EL A
CART
DE
EJA OUI
HED T B
AT HAC DAN
BDER
FA R H OM MAN
UE DU C
HAG
AV E N PLACE DE RUE
BARCELONE
MAS
Place de Key
E
AV E N
Barcelone
SER
Major sight
UE D
PLACE Train
Other sight
E LA
MONGI
BALI Station
GARE
Bus Station
1km (1.6 miles)
Tunis and its Environs
P7
C30
A1
0 metres 200
P5
0 yards 200
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2

Street-by-Street: The Medina

Tunis’s ancient medina is classed by UNESCO 7 The Great Souk
as a World Heritage Site. Bustling with life The animated
market has kept
for over one thousand years, it is full of
much of its
narrow alleys, mosques, Oriental markets traditional
and unexpected courtyards. It also has atmosphere and
many mysterious and colourful doorways was used for
scenes in the film
beyond which are ancient palaces and
The English Patient.
wealthy homes. The medina is centred
on an axis formed by the Great Mosque
and its many surrounding souks.
ENT AH
NEM KA
SB
U VER A
GO E L
6 Place du DU E D
CE RU
Gouvernement PLA
is the town’s
main square. It
SO
can be used as
the starting point
UK
for exploring
EL
the medina.
B
EY
5 Dar el-Bey is the former

beys’ palace and is now
the prime minister’s office.
RUE SIDI BEN ZIAD
K
OU 
4 Sidi Youssef Mosque TR K
E T TUR
This distinctive mosque UK AL
SO UK
has the oldest Ottoman- S
style minaret in the
medina (1616) and
SO
is crowned with a
balustrade and a
UK
wooden roof.
EL
B
ER
KA
3 . Souk et-Trouk
Built in 1630 by Sidi Youssef,
this is one of the medina’s most
Key colourful rows of shops offering
Suggested route
carpets, clothes and souvenirs.
One shop has a terrace that
provides a view of the medina.
TUNIS 73
8 Hammouda
Pasha Mosque
The main feature of
this mosque (1665) is
the octagonal minaret,
which is built in the
Turkish style. It is one
of the most beautiful
mosques in Tunis.
Locator Map
See Tunis map pp70–71

is the tomb of Aziza – daughter
of Othman, a bey of Tunis.
HIJA
BLAG
R
SOUK
U
E
SI
q National Library
D
The National Library contains

I
over two million volumes. It is

B

IN
EN
AR located at the heart of

A TT
L the medina, in the
A
K A former military
R
SU
E 
O
RIN barracks built by

U
A
TT Hammouda Pasha.
S
A
EL
UK A
SO UN
TO
ZI
A
MA
E JA
RU
RU
E
0 Souk el Attarine
D
has traded in perfumes,

ES
incense, henna, candles

LI
and herbs since the

BRAIRES
13th century.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
1 . The Great
Mosque
2 . The Three Medersas This is the largest
These three Muslim schools mosque in Tunis.
comprise the Medersa of Its construction
the Palm Tree, the Bachia was begun in
and the Slimania. the 8th century.
1 The Great Mosque

The Great Mosque has been at the heart of Tunis
since it was begun in the 8th century and towers
over the souks that crowd around it. Aptly named,
its striking east gallery opens up suddenly as you
proceed up the final yards of Rue Jemaa Zitouna.
Though parts of the mosque have been
remodelled many times, its vast courtyard of
polished marble is in its original form and is
surrounded on three sides by graceful arcades. . Courtyard
Shaded by simple arcades,
the courtyard is based on
The Capitals Kairouan’s Great Mosque.
These ornate decorations
can be seen crowning the
many columns surrounding
the inner courtyard of
the complex.
. Minaret
This stands on the site of
a former defensive tower.
It has been extended to a
height of 44 m (144 ft). Minaret Decorations
These were built to resemble
the decorations in the Kasbah
Mosque. The upper parts are
lined with ceramic tiles.
TUNIS 75
Door to the
Prayer Hall
The geometric
Practical Information
patterns decorating
Rue Jemaa Zitouna. Tel (74) 835
the entrance to the
844. Open 8am–noon Sat–Thu,
prayer hall are based
8–11:30am Fri (only part of the
on Spanish designs.
gallery that overlooks the
courtyard and the entrance
to the prayer hall).
Closed Islamic holidays. &
Minbar
Standing to the right of
the mihrab (indicating the
direction of Mecca), this is
a pulpit from which the
khutba (weekly sermon)
is delivered.
Prayer Hall
Located at the far end of
the courtyard, the prayer
hall must be kept ritually
pure. Non-Muslims are not
allowed to enter.
Arcades
The three arcaded galleries in the main The Dome
courtyard were built during the Since AD 864, this dome has topped
Husaynid dynasty (18th century). the vestibule of the prayer hall.
2 The Three 4 Sidi Youssef

Medersas Mosque
Rue des Libraires 11, 19 & Rue de la Rue Sidi ben Ziad.
Medersa 13.
This building is located on the
The Great Mosque is adjoined first floor above the shops,
by a group of three medersas. which provided Muslim
Built by the Husaynids as mosques with a revenue during
residential Islamic schools in the the Turkish era. One of the most
18th century, each of them has interesting Ottoman sacred
a similar layout, with a courtyard buildings, the mosque has the
flanked on three sides by cells, oldest Turkish minaret in the
which are used by students medina (1616). The octagonal
studying the Koran. The fourth minaret is set on a square base
side of the medersas’ courtyards and is typical of Ottoman
adjoin the mosque. architecture. Most of the 48
The oldest of them is the The cosy interior of a carpet shop in Souk columns (eight rows of six
Medersa of the Palm Tree et-Trouk columns) in the prayer hall
(1714). Its name derives from feature antique capitals and
the palm tree that stands at 3 Souk et-Trouk are North African in design.
the centre of the courtyard Adjacent to the mosque is the
surrounded by arcaded galleries. This 17th-century Turkish market mausoleum of its founder – Sidi
The arcades, with their horseshoe is situated between Souk Youssef – which has a pyramid
arches, have columns with el-Attarine (the scent market) roof of green tiles. The complex
richly ornamented capitals. The and Souk el-Berka (formerly is completed by the medersa,
Medersa of the Palm Tree now the site of the old slave market). which was built in 1622.
houses the headquarters of the It contains the north gateway to
organization concerned with the Great Mosque and also Au
Koranic law. Palais d’Orient – one of Tunis’s
Bachia, the second in the best-known carpet shops and
group, was built in 1752 by Ali viewing points. Here, visitors will
Pasha. Standing next to the also find Café M’Rabet, with its
entrance is a small fountain with miniature garden (a kind of
miniature pools that are always verandah), and a more
full of water. The adjacent tourbet expensive restaurant on the first
(mausoleum) houses the Cultural floor (overlooking a section of
Society. The third medersa, the Great Mosque). This is the
Slimania, also owes its existence place to come to enjoy some
to Ali Pasha, who built it in traditional Tunisian music, a
memory of his son Suleyman cup of tea and, for those that
who had been murdered by want it, a puff of tobacco
his younger brother. through a chicha (hookah). Sidi Youssef Mosque with its
17th-century minaret
5 Dar el-Bey
Closed to visitors.
The former seat of the bey

rulers, and later of the French
Protectorate administration,
this is now the prime minister’s
office. Dar el-Bey, with its
imposing 18th- and 19th-
century façade, is the most
important building in Tunis’s
Next to the west wing of the
government’s seat (in Rue Sidi
ben Ziad) is the start of a
marked walking route that
Arcaded courtyard in the Medersa of the Palm Tree leads towards the Great
TUNIS 77
Mosque and further, to the medina (it is just a short

Tourbet el-Bey and Dar ben distance from the Great Mosque).
Abdallah in the south of the Place du Gouvernement is
medina. At the start of the situated in what would once
route there is a detailed map have been the western limit
with the main sights and of the medina. It is flanked on
other points of interest clearly the west by the Boulevard
marked on it. Bab Benat (Tunis’s local
The palace was built as a government building stands
guest house by a Husaynid on the opposite side of the
monarch in 1795, on the ruins avenue), and on the east and
of a royal residence dating north by the Government
from the Muradid period. It Secretariat and the Ministry
was extensively remodelled in of Religious Affairs.
1876 when it was used by the The Dar el-Bey (see opposite)
bey of Tunis as a place to stands at its southern end
receive important visitors. It on the side of the Sidi Youssef
was here that he received Mosque. Today it houses
many heads of state from the offices of the Tunisian
Germany, England, France and prime minister.
the Ottoman Empire.
The bey himself lived
outside Tunis in the Bardo 7 The Great Souk
area at this time. Prior to that,
until the Husaynid period The medina in Tunis has Strolling along a busy alley in one
(18th century), the sultan’s more than 20 souks. The major of the medina’s souks
main residence was the ones are adjacent to the Great
nearby kasbah. The change Mosque and together form as being the centre of social
was partly brought about by one vast, colourful, animated life. Arab souks, as opposed to
the fashion for building marketplace. Two terms, both European markets, were never
summer residences that meaning “market”, compete places of residence for the
prevailed at the beginning of with each other in the Muslim merchants. The Great Mosque
the 19th century. world: the bazaar (from the was always the seat of learning
Persian) and the souk (from and faith, while the souks
the Arabic). For centuries a constituted the town’s
6 Place du
souk had a distinct, cohesive economic centre. Souks may
Gouvernement character based on the seem chaotic but actually
traditions of the eastern and have a strict hierarchy. The
This busy square is full of Mediterranean nations, and immediate vicinity of the Great
government buildings, foun- featured clearly identified Mosque was reserved for the
tains, palm trees and flowers. places for various types of upmarket bazaars selling
It is also a popular meeting goods. From the beginning, articles such as religious
place for young people and this was a venue for trading books, perfumes, carpets and
serves as a useful starting point in goods and conducting jewellery. In Muslim countries,
for expeditions into the heart of financial transactions, as well the market was, and continues
to be, an important element
of Islamic life. The souk is a
place where people come to
shop, trade and meet friends.
According to Muslim tradition,
trading is the sweetest
occupation. The medieval Arab
scholar al-Ghazali, for instance,
considered commerce as a
form of preparation for the
rewards of the next world.
Haggling is a strictly scripted
performance: both parties must
end up believing that they
have struck a good bargain.
Any customer who engages in
a long bargaining process
should not pull out of the deal
Fountain in Place du Gouvernement at the end (see p283).
8 Hammouda
Pasha Mosque
Corner of Rue Sidi ben Arous and Rue
de la Kasbah.
One of the medina’s most

distinctive buildings, this mosque
attracts a large number of
the Muslim faithful for the all-
important Friday prayers. The
entire complex includes the
mosque and the tourbet (tomb)
of its founder, Hammouda
Pasha, one of the early Ottoman A perfume vendor in Souk el-Attarine
rulers and the founder of the
Muradid dynasty. The mosque the muezzin to call the faithful foundations that helped the
was completed in 1665, a year to prayer, though this function poor, supported medersas,
before the monarch’s death, and has now been replaced by the financed hospitals, and provided
was lavishly decorated by crafts- use of loudspeakers. dowries for impoverished girls.
men from Italy. The entrance leads first to the
Two gates lead to the 9 Tourbet of zaouia of Sidi ben Arous, where
mosque, which is easily a doorman will show visitors
recognizable by its sandstone Aziza Othmana the way to the tourbet of
walls. The main one is the Rue Sidi ben Arous 23. Aziza Othmana.
northern gate from Rue de la
Kasbah while the side entrance Not far from the Great Mosque
is from Rue Sidi ben Arous. stands the mausoleum of Aziza, 0 Souk el-Attarine
Inside the mosque is a daughter of Bey Othman, who
courtyard surrounded with has been revered by the people The scent of perfume and
arcades, which are towered over of Tunis for over 300 years. It aromatic oils has long hung in
by one of Tunis’s most distinc- was erected following the the air around this market.
tive minarets – an octagonal, princess’s death in 1669. The immediate neighbourhood
Turkish-style structure with Aziza was renowned for her was reserved exclusively for
black and white arches. The charity work. Towards the end rich souks that did not produce
minaret’s balcony would of her life, she freed her slaves noise or offensive smells
originally have been used by and left her estate to charitable (butcher’s and blacksmith’s
souks were always tucked far
away from the Great Mosque).
The 13th-century Souk
el-Attarine owes its existence
to the early Hafsid rulers. For
centuries it was a venue for
trading in perfumes, incense,
aromatic essence, henna,
candles, wax, as well as
a mixture of herbs, flowers and
resins. The market no longer
specializes in perfume but
visitors can still buy scent here
and even have a special mixture
made up to an individual recipe.
Well-known scents, such as
Chanel No. 5, can also be
approximately reproduced.
For Tunisians, scents have
symbolic meanings. To this day,
wedding guests are sprinkled
with essence of orange,
newborn babies with geranium
oil, and arriving guests with
rose essence. The use of scents
is given up only during the
Interior of the Hammouda Pasha Mosque month of Ramadan.
The unusual architectural mix of the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul and St Olive
TUNIS 81
w Rue Jemaa
Zitouna
This is one of the medina’s
main streets (after Rue de la
Kasbah). There are plenty of
souvenir shops here but the
same souvenirs can be bought
much cheaper, and without
haggling, in the side streets
or the souks in the south or
north of the medina.
The street runs steeply
upwards, from Place de la Bab el-Bahr, connecting the medina with
Victoire and the Bab el-Bahr the Ville Nouvelle
gate to the Great Mosque
Illuminated manuscript from the where the souks are some of on the Great Mosque’s
National Library’s collection the oldest in Tunis. The place courtyard and the medina’s
is crowded and noisy from roofs and minarets.
q National Library morning until 6pm, except for
Souk el-Attarine 20. Tel (71) 325 338. Ramadan, when it comes alive
Closed to visitors. only at dusk and continues e Bab el-Bahr
until 1 or 2am. The shops that Place de la Victoire.
Tunisia’s National Library contains line the street on both sides
over two million volumes and offer Nabeul ceramics, “Hand of The Bab el-Bahr gate marks
manuscripts. It is at the very Fatima” talismans, birdcages, the symbolic border between
heart of the medina and camel mascots, and hookahs or the old quarter of Tunis and the
occupies the former army chicha pipes. The shopkeepers Ville Nouvelle that was built by
barracks built by Hammouda here are a multilingual lot and the French during the colonial
Pasha. Before it became a library, advertise their wares in most era. This vast arch standing in
the colonial administration had languages – German, English, Place de la Victoire was once
turned the building into the French, Polish, Czech and the east gate in the wall that
Department of Antiquities and Hungarian are all heard. encircled the medina and
then added a library just for The top portion of the street would have been surrounded
good measure. Following has a number of shops selling by huts and stalls.
Tunisian independence, in 1956, Tunisian cakes. The Café Bab el-Bahr is Arabic for “the
the Department of Antiquities Ez-Zitouna serves coffee Sea Gate” and is so named
was moved to Dar Hussein, while and tea and provides the because of its close proximity
the library was reorganized and wherewithal for chichas. The to the sea. In the 19th century,
its collection increased by the end of Rue Jamaa Zitouna the waters of Lake Tunis almost
addition of thousands of Arab provides a view of the east lapped up against the walls
manuscripts that were collected gallery of the Great Mosque, of the medina, though today
together from the medina’s which is illuminated at night. its shores are about 1.5 km
many mosques and medersas. From here, turn right, then (1 mile) away. This is thanks to
Unfortunately, the library is not left and climb to the viewing the French who drained much
open to visitors and entry roof of the Au Palais d’Orient of the ground in order to lay
requires permission from the carpet shop from where foundations for the new town.
Ministry of Culture. it is possible to look down As the Ville Nouvelle prospered,
the Bab el-Bahr became a link
between two worlds and a
Hand of Fatima symbol of the new era. During
The “Hand of Fatima”, referred to as the the French Protectorate, its
khamsa meaning “five”, is a common name changed to the French
talisman thought to ward off bad luck. Gate and only reverted to its
Many Muslims believe it also protects old name after Tunisia regained
and bestows blessings. Fatima was the independence. The present
daughter of the Prophet Mohammed gate was built in 1848 on the
and an idealized mother and wife. The
orders of Ahmed Bey, who was
Fatimid dynasty claimed descent from
inspired by the Arc de Triomphe
her. The five fingers symbolize not only
the five pillars of Islam, but also the and had the old gate demol-
Muslim prayer that is repeated five ished. The gate stands at the
times a day. end of Avenue de France,
“Fatima’s hand” on a house wall which leads to Avenue Habib
Bourguiba and the harbour.
official responsible for the

collection of taxes during the
reign of Hammouda Pasha. The
entrance from the courtyard
leads to the inner rooms of the
palace, where the Museum of
Popular Arts and Traditions
has displays illustrating the
lives of the medina’s
19th-century inhabitants.
Visitors can still see some
of the rooms that were used
by the owner, his wife and
children, plus additional guest
rooms and the kitchens. The
interior furnishings include
Venetian mirrors, crystal
chandeliers and candelabras.
The palace, originally called Dar
Kahia, got its new name from
its later owner – Ben Abdallah,
a merchant, who lived here
from 1875–99. The Théâtre
d’Art Dar Ben Abdallah is a
theatre and film venue located
opposite the palace.
Garden in the inner courtyard of Dar Othman

y Tourbet el-Bey
r Dar Othman t Dar ben Abdallah
Museum-mausoleum: Rue Tourbet
Rue el-M’Bazza 16. Tel (71) 321 452. Museum of Popular Arts and el-Bey 62. Open 9am–4:30pm daily.
Open summer: 8am–2pm; winter: Traditions: entrance from Rue Closed Sun. &
9am–1pm, 3–5pm daily. ben Abdallah. Tel (71) 256 195.
Open 8am–2pm. Closed Sun. & This royal mausoleum of the
One of the medina’s oldest Husaynids was built by Ali Pasha
and most stately palaces, Dar This 18th-century palace, II (1758–82). It is not far from Dar
Othman has a façade of black located in the southern part ben Abdallah and Dar Othman
and white marble; the interior of the medina, has a fine (a marked trail leads to all three
has a rich array of mosaics, courtyard, surrounded by sights, starting from Place du
wooden ceiling decorations tall arcaded galleries with Gouvernement). Although
covered with magnificent walls that are decorated with Islam – and particularly the
paintings, and a small garden in colourful ceramic tiles. One Malekite school – calls for
the inner courtyard. Located in of the finest palaces in the simple burials, with the arrival
the southern part of the medina, it was built by Slimane of the Turkish Ottomans the
medina, not far from Dar ben Kahia el-Hanafi, a government Hanefite school began to gain
Abdallah, the palace was built
by Othman Bey who resided
here from 1594 until his death
in 1610. The first owner of the
palace became famous for his
unswerving principle of
separating state affairs from his
private life and this palace was
designed to provide him with a
haven in which he could take a
rest from his daily work, while
separate sections were allo-
cated for receiving visitors.
Subsequent inhabitants of the
palace included Bey Hussein
and Ibd Mahmud. Now the
restored palace houses the
headquarters of the Medina
Conservation Department. Mannequins in one of the museum rooms in Dar ben Abdallah
TUNIS 83
influence. This allowed for far National Institute of Arts and

more fanciful, richly ornamented Archaeology and visitors are
and opulent mausoleums. welcome to look around. As this
Tourbet el-Bey is an entire is an official building, formal
architectural complex. It’s dress is required. It is reached
covered with several domes of via the short and narrow Rue du
different sizes, and includes Château. Having passed through
two inner courtyards (orange the skifa (vestibule), enter the
trees grow in the smaller of spacious palace courtyard, which
these), and is reminiscent of has a modern, sloping glazed
palace architecture. roof. The courtyard is surrounded
by cloisters with columns
topped with Corinthian capitals.
The walls are covered in
colourful ceramic tiles (the
work of Italian artisans) that
feature floral motifs and
intricate geometrical patterns.
The wooden vaults have also
been beautifully decorated.
Cloisters around Dar Hussein’s

o Dar el-Haddad arcaded courtyard
Arcaded entrance to the royal mausoleum Impasse de l’Artillerie 9. Tel (71) 570
937. Open (courtyard only) summer: Souk Sekkajine (turning into Rue
of Tourbet el-Bey ben Mahmoud), or via Rue du
8am–2pm, winter: 9am–1pm, 2:30–
5:30pm. Closed Fri. Admission free. Château (also turning into Rue
ben Mahmoud). From the 18th
u Medersa Hidden away in a labyrinth of century, the palace belonged
Mouradia narrow alleys, this is one of the to the wealthy Haddad family,
oldest palaces in the medina and who originally arrived from
Souk des Etoffes 37.
was built in the late 16th century. Andalusia following the fall
Located just a short distance Restored in 1966, it now houses of Granada. The courtyard is
from the Great Mosque, this a branch of the National Heritage surrounded by porticoes on
18th-century Muslim residential Institute. The easiest way to three sides and its columns
school is entered through a get here is from the west (from are topped with capitals from
large and ornately studded Boulevard Bab Menara), via the period of the Hafsids.
wooden door. Its inner
courtyard is surrounded by an
arcaded gallery. The courtyard
is typically Tunisian in style and
features an entrance to the
prayer hall, marked by an
arcade, which is horseshoe-
shaped and in black and white
marble. Wooden doors lead to
the cells of the older students.
The medersa was built in 1637
by Murad II, on the site of some
Turkish army barracks that were
destroyed during a rebellion.
i Dar Hussein
Place du Château. Tel (71) 574 127.
Open (courtyard only) summer: 8am–
2pm, winter: 9am–1pm, 2:30–5:30pm.
This is one of the finest restored

palaces of the medina. Built in
the 18th century, it is a stately
place, and was erected on
the site of an 11th-century
palace. Today it houses the Exquisitely decorated arcades around the patio of Dar el-Haddad
route and divides the medina s Rue de la Hafsia

from north to south. It is
worth taking a closer look at This district occupies the
the small courtyards, window northern part of the medina.
shutters, and the main doors It was once inhabited by Jews,
along its route. The size and who towards the end of the
grandeur of each door is 19th century moved to the Ville
directly related to the size and Nouvelle. Neglected and derelict,
grandeur of the residence it gained a reputation as one of
behind it. Almost every door in the seedier parts of town.
this street is still furnished with There were calls to demolish it
its traditional door-knocker. but in the early 1980s the Hafsia
Some of the houses have more area was redeveloped in a way
than one knocker. These used that respected traditional styles
to indicate the number of and urban values.
people who once lived inside
and date from a time when
different sounding “knocks” d Dar Lasram
The minaret of the Kasbah Mosque were used to signal the identity Rue du Tribunal 24. Open summer:
and gender of guests (men, 8am–2pm; winter: 10am–7pm;
p Kasbah Mosque women and children each had Ramadan: 10am–2pm, 9–11:30pm.
Place de la Kasbah. different door-knockers). One
of the most elaborate of these Dar Lasram is one of the most
The Kasbah Mosque gets its doors can be found at No. 29. stately and expertly renovated
name from the fort that stood Rue du Pasha is also full palaces in the entire medina.
above the medina during the of intricately decorated façades Visitors have access to the
Hafsid reign. It was badly dam- and window shutters, and is courtyard as well as some of the
aged during a revolt by Turkish an ideal place for taking main rooms including the library,
troops in 1811, and only the some photographs. which has several displays of
mosque and parts of the wall Visitors can discover a variety maps, plans and photographs.
running along Rue el-Zouaoui of unusual places, such as the Construction of the palace
have survived. Protected by former palace at No. 71. began in the latter part of
mighty walls, the kasbah was Dilapidated but full of charm the 18th century and was
once the venue of the sultan’s this once-grand building stands continued by Hammoud
council gatherings and this was beyond a small garden planted Lasram, a rich landowner
where the sultan held audiences. with jasmine and banana trees. and high-ranking officer. His
Adjacent to the kasbah were It now houses the headquarters descendants inhabited it until
the army barracks and city of the Tunisian Red Crescent 1964. The palace is arranged
guard quarters. These were used (volunteers are pleased to over three storeys: the ground
as the sultan’s residence until show visitors around). floor was occupied by the
Husaynid times (18th century)
and continued to retain a
military function. During the
time of the French Protectorate,
they were occupied by French
troops. The barracks were
eventually demolished in 1957.
The mosque is well worth
visiting, if only to see its minaret
(the tallest in the medina),
which served as the model for
the Great Mosque’s Malekite
minaret. Five times a day, the
call to prayer is signalled by the
brief flying of a white flag from
the minaret.
a Rue du Pasha
During the Ottoman period,
this cobbled street bisected
the town’s smartest district.
Today, it is a popular tourist The ancient street of Rue du Pasha
TUNIS 85
The Corsairs
The glamorous but violent
world of the corsairs played a
significant role in shaping the
history of Tunisia from the mid-
16th century until the early
19th century. The most noto-
rious was the Turkish-born Khair
ed-Din Barbarossa (Red Beard),
who based himself on the
island of Djerba and in 1534
captured Tunis. This gave name
to the Barbary Coast. Under
the Ottomans there was great
wealth to be taken at sea and
corsairs flourished during the
Husaynid period as a major
Tunisian enterprise. During the
late 17th and early 18th cent-
uries some nations even paid
Magnificently decorated rooms of Dar Lasram bribes to Tunisia so that their
ships would not be attacked.
servants, the raised first floor the home of the Association de
was the main portion of the Sauvegarde de la Medina (The
house, and the top floor was set Medina Conservation Society).
aside for guests. Visiting the
palace offers a unique insight f Sidi Mehrez
into how the wealthy lived in
19th-century Tunis. The main Mosque
door opens up to the driba Rue Sidi Mehrez. Closed to non-
(entrance hall), which was used Muslims.
by the owner of the house to
receive visitors. The room to This mosque stands in the
the right of the entrance is the northern part of the medina,
bayt-al-sahra (evening room). in the El-Hafsia district. Begun
During the day, it was used by in 1675, it was named after Barbarossa, once the most notorious
teachers but in the evening it the town’s patron saint – corsair in Tunisia
became a venue for all-male Sidi Mehrez – a prominent
gatherings, which were livened 10th-century marabout (Islamic
up by female dancers. holy man) and theologian, are reminiscent of the
Women also had their own who arrived here from Kairouan. traditional Muslim buildings of
soirees. For these, the servants It was to him that Tunis owed Istanbul. One of the best views
would sprinkle the carpets and its recovery in 944. The mosque is to be had from the north side
pond with rose and jasmine architecture and decorations of Bab Souika. The whole
petals, fill the censers with building is topped by a large
ambergris, incense and aloe white dome, surrounded by
and arrange cushions on the four smaller ones (also white).
floor. After the women had The courtyard is surrounded
taken their seats, a large tray on three sides by arcades; and
would be brought in, laden the walls of the prayer hall are
with sweets and glasses of tea. richly ornamented.
Much of the decoration is in Opposite the entrance to the
keeping with this lavish lifestyle. mosque is the mausoleum of
The wall containing the door Sidi Mehrez (also known as
to the dar al-kebira (state rooms) Mehrez ibn Chalaf ). The tomb is
is lined with pink sandstone revered by Muslims and Jews
while the white stuccowork alike. Sidi Mehrez was famous
above the door resembles for his tolerance and won a
intricate lace. Look out for number of concessions for the
the arches supported by Jews. Thanks to him, those who
Doric columns that feature traded in the local souks were
charming stucco decorations. granted the right to settle within
It is perhaps no surprise that Richly ornamented interior of the city walls and no longer had
such a stunning palace is now Sidi Mehrez Mosque to leave the city at nightfall.
g Hôtel Majestic
Avenue de Paris. Hotel and restaurant:
Tel (71) 332 666. ∑ majestichotel.tn
The Hôtel Majestic stands in

Avenue de Paris, in the Ville
Nouvelle. Built in 1914, it has
a beautiful white façade with
gently curved corners typical of
Art Nouveau architecture. It also
boasts several lovely balconies.
The hotel is built over four
storeys: the first floor has a
terrace where guests once took
afternoon tea. The surroundings
have changed somewhat: the
once quiet street is now a busy
avenue, full of shops, people and
cars. Nevertheless, the hotel Façade of the Cathedral of St Vincent de Paul
retains some of its old charm.
A ten-minute walk along Avenue and North African architecture. transept) shows the descent of
de Paris will bring visitors to This echoes the varied history of the Holy Spirit at Pentecost.
Avenue Habib Bourguiba. Christianity in the region and The main altarpiece mosaics,
resembles the Christian basilica composed of alabaster and
in Henchir Khira, near Béja, with marble, are fashioned in typical
a Byzantine-style dome rising Tunisian style. Built in 1921, the
above the nave and the transept cathedral’s organ is regarded as
intersection. A mosaic above the the finest in North Africa. The
main entrance depicts Christ. cathedral is occasionally used
Inside, the church has a broad as a venue for concerts.
mix of styles and imagery. The
arcade is crowned with the j Théâtre
figure of Abraham blessing the
Jews, the Christians and the Municipal
Muslims. The painting in the Avenue Habib Bourguiba.
apse depicts the Assumption
of St Vincent de Paul who is This theatre was built by the
surrounded by the figures of French in the early 20th century
North African saints and and is a classic example of Art
martyrs, led by the famous Nouveau, with distinctive white
bishop of Carthage – St Cyprian. stucco, soft flowing floral forms
The simple elegance of a communal area in The green-blue stained-glass and fantastic carved figures. It is
the Hôtel Majestic window on the left (south still used as a theatre today and
transept) depicts the Assumption is a good venue for concerts of
of the Virgin Mary, while the red- both classical and Arabic music
h Cathedral gold window on the right (north as well as films and talks.
Place de l’Indépendance.
The Cathedral of St Vincent de

Paul and St Olive, to give it its full
name, stands at the very centre
of the Ville Nouvelle, close to
Bab el-Bahr. Construction began
in the 1890s, on the site of a
Catholic cemetery dedicated to
St Antoine. Mentioned in a num-
ber of early 17th-century texts,
this cemetery was originally
destined for deceased slaves who
had previously been captured by
corsairs operating out of Tunis.
The cathedral, with its tall twin
towers which form the entrance,
is an odd mix of Byzantine, Gothic Ornate stuccowork on the façade of the Théâtre Municipal
TUNIS 87
Ville Nouvelle Architecture

During the period of the French Protectorate (1881–1956), the population of Tunis
began to move beyond the walls of the medina. New structures appeared and wealthy
Tunisians gave up the narrow labyrinthine alleys of the medina for the wide avenues
and apartments of the Ville Nouvelle. The building of the new town coincided with the
development of Art Nouveau in France and Italy, followed later by Art Deco. Perhaps
no other European style has merged so successfully with Islamic architecture as Art
Nouveau. The arabesque, an ornament typical of Islamic art, blended perfectly with
the curves and undulating surfaces of Art Nouveau, as did the Islamic taste for ornate
stuccowork and florid decorations.
Street lamps with fanciful The Oriental style

decorations protecting featuring domes,
their glass shades arched windows and
illuminate and courtyards, combines
decorate Avenue with European
Habib Bourguiba – elements and can be
one of the finest seen in the buildings
streets in the around Place du
European district Gouvernement.
of Tunis.
Art Nouveau houses, adorned

with stunning balconies, are
common on Avenue de Paris,
Rue ibn Khaldun and
Rue Ali Darghouth.
Architecture inspired by Baroque and

Renaissance styles is the most prevalent
in Tunis’s modern town. Frequently, each
storey of a building is constructed in the
style of a different era. The extremely rich,
heavily ornamented façades are also
reminiscent of Islamic architecture.
Architectural
details including
floral motifs and
The colonial style is represented mainly by figures adorn the
apartment blocks and public buildings. These façades of most
were built in clusters in styles fashionable in houses built
Europe during the late 19th century. during the colonial era.
Imposing clock tower standing at the end of Avenue Habib Bourguiba
k Avenue Habib towards the medina, you pass Magasin Général – a large
Bourguiba on the left-hand side the lovely self-service store where food
Art Nouveau façade of the and drink can be purchased
The main street of Tunis’s Théâtre Municipal (see p86). on the ground floor.
Ville Nouvelle, Avenue Habib Next to it is a large modern
Bourguiba runs like an artery shopping centre, the Palmarium.
through the city, linking At No. 47 Avenue Bourguiba l Main Market
the harbour and TGM train there is a craft workshop run by Rue d’Allemagne. Open from the early
station with the medina. Along women, Mains des Femmes, morning until about 2:30pm.
the way it cuts through Place selling good-quality Tunisian
du 7 Novembre 1987 (which crafts and souvenirs. This huge market hall is situated
commemorates the day when Tunis Cathedral (see p86) stands not far from Bab el-Bahr and is
Bourguiba was replaced by in Place de l’Indépendance, where many of the residents of
Zine el-Abidine Ben Ali) and not far from Bab el-Bahr. Tunis come to do their weekly
Place de l’Indépendance. From Opposite is the French Embassy. shopping. Built during the
here it becomes Avenue de To the left, beneath the arcades, colonial era and now restored,
France. About halfway along, are several smart shops selling it has a high-vaulted roof to
Place du 7 Novembre has a clothes and shoes, and also protect shoppers from the rain
fountain and a prominent or heat. A wide variety of goods
clock tower decorated with is on offer, including a large
fine tracery. In the evenings, selection of excellent cheeses,
the illuminated clock and the dozens of varieties of the
multicoloured fountain become Tunisian harissa (chilli and
popular meeting places for the garlic sauce), cooking oil,
youth of Tunis. vegetables, fruit, meat and fish.
The section between here On sale right by the entrance
and the cathedral is the busiest are flowerpots containing
part of this tree-lined promenade Tunisian herbs and other plants
and there are plenty of smart that include varieties of jasmine,
cafés and fashionable bougainvillea, basil and
restaurants to tempt visitors. rosemary. A large part of the
Café de Paris, situated near hall is occupied by fruit and
Hôtel Africa, is the birthplace vegetable vendors trying to
of the Ecole de Tunis, an out-perform each other in the
influential group of Tunisian hope of getting passers-by to
painters, founded in 1949. purchase their products. Any
The café is still a popular transaction may involve
meeting place, although little haggling. The market is worth
has remained of its artistic visiting if only to witness these
atmosphere. Moving on Fishmonger’s stall in the main market scenes of everyday Tunisian life.
Ancient Roman mosaic of Ulysses on display in the Bardo Museum
TUNIS 91
z Belvedere Park
Entrance on Avenue des Etats-Unis or
Place Pasteur. v Tel (71) 890 386.
∑ aab.planet.tn
Belvedere Park is located

to the north of the medina,
on the slope of a hill standing
some 2 km (1 mile) from the
end of Avenue Habib
Bourguiba. Outside rush hour it
is possible to get there by TGM
train (the Tunisians refer to it as
the metro) from République
(get off at Palestine then walk).
This is Tunis’s only major
park and it provides an
opportunity to escape from
the busy and somewhat
cramped streets and alleys of
the medina. The park was estab-
lished in 1892 by Josepha de
Laforcade, a landscape artist
and one of Paris’s top gardeners.
Initially it was closed to the
public (due to construction
works and the natural plant
growth cycle) and the official
opening did not take place
until 1910.
To this day it remains a
favourite place for family
outings, receptions and Sunday Lake in the verdant grounds of Belvedere Park
picnics. At the last count, it
had over 230,000 trees and that was transported here from x Jellaz Cemetery
80 species of plants including the Souk et-Trouk in the
Next to Bab Alleoua.
olive trees, pines and numerous medina and was also displayed
varieties of cacti. The park also at the World Exhibition in Paris Located next to the bus station,
plays an important educational in 1900. Not far from the zoo this burial ground is the largest
role. A visit to the Friends of there is an artificial lake. in Tunis. Visiting the graves of
Park Belvedere Park, which Standing at the heart of one’s relatives is considered a
has a small office on the the park, on a hill, is a lovely duty, especially during Aïd
high ground near the park’s koubba or pavilion. Once part el-Fitr, at the end of Ramadan.
entrance, will provide of Hammouda Pasha’s rose At this time the cemetery is
information on the many plants garden in the suburb of visited by family groups, who
growing in the garden, and also Manouba to the west of Tunis, clean and whitewash the tombs,
on Tunisia’s flora and fauna in it was placed here in 1922 to which are all arranged to face
general. Close to this is the serve as a resting place and towards Mecca. The first mass
Centre d’Animation Équestre, viewpoint. It is an excellent demonstrations against French
which organizes pony-trekking example of Tunisian rule took place here in 1911,
activities in the Tabarka region architecture. Its decoration costing the lives of 30 Tunisians
in summer, and in Nefta and tastefully combines a variety and nine Frenchmen in the riot
Tamerza in winter. A little of styles – Italian white marble that ensued.
higher up is a fairly gentle columns, Doric capitals,
assault course. Moorish-Spanish ceramics
There is also a zoo in the and stuccoes, and Tunisian
southern section of the park earthenware.
which has a number of birds The Rose Palace, which
and animals native to Africa. remains in Hammouda Pasha’s
The zoo has a small admission rose garden in Manouba, now
charge and attracts over a houses a fine Military Museum.
million visitors a year. If visiting
the zoo, look out for the Midha, Centre d’Animation Équestre Entrance to Jellaz Cemetery – the largest
a 17th-century ablutions room Tel (98) 652 085. Fax (71) 880 262. burial ground in Tunis
c Bardo Museum
The Bardo Museum occupies a palace once owned
2nd floor
by the Husseinite beys. The museum has an
unrivalled collection of Roman mosaics, dating from
the 2nd to 4th centuries AD, that once adorned the
homes of some of Roman Africa’s wealthiest citizens.
Other exhibits in the museum’s collection include
Punic funeral masks, Greek bronze statuary, Islamic . Eros (125 BC)
This bronze statuette
tiles and finds from a 1st century BC shipwreck. is one of the most
In March 2015, terrorists attacked the Bardo, precious objects that
triggering anti-terrorist protests, marches and a was recovered from a
ceremonial re-opening of the museum. ship that went down
off Mahdia during the
1st century BC.
Mosaic with the

image of Virgil
1st floor
This early Christian baptismal font was found in a

church in the town of Demna.
Ground floor
Minerva
(2nd century AD)
The marble
statue of Minerva,
goddess of wisdom
and war, patron of
crafts, arts and
literature, stands on the
ground floor, in the
corridor devoted to
Roman sculpture.
Museum Guide
Roman mosaics are spread over all floors and Islamic art
occupies rooms on the ground and first floors. Underwater
finds from Mahdia are on the first floor. Punic and early
Christian exhibits are on the ground floor. Entrance

TUNIS 93
Mosaics from the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Acholla baths,
near Sfax Practical Information
Bardo 2000. Tel (71) 513 650.
Open May–Sep: 9am–5pm Tue–
Sun; Oct–Apr: 9:30am–4:30pm
Tue–Sun. Closed Mon. & =
∑ bardomuseum.tn
Transport
@ from Bab el-Khadra, Nos
3A, 3D, 16A, 16C, 30, 58 and 68.
v 4 from Park Thameur.
Mahdia Room
In 1907 sponge divers
came across the
wreck of a ship near
Mahdia that sank
during the 1st century
BC. It contained
marble columns,
reliefs, sculptures
and bronze vases.
Carthage Room
This room has a fine
collection of statuary
from Roman Carthage. At
its centre is a monument
to Augustus from the
1st century AD. The floor
mosaics date from
the 3rd century AD
and once decorated
wealthy homes in Oudna.
. Lucius Verus
The Roman
emperor Lucius
Verus ruled from
161 until 169 in
conjunction with
Marcus Aurelius.
Key
Roman art
Dougga and Sousse Rooms
The Dougga Room has an Christian art
intricately decorated ceiling Punic art
with floral and arabesque
Islamic art
motifs. In the adjacent Sousse
Room is a fine floor mosaic. Objects recovered from the
shipwreck off Mahdia
Recovered from a villa in
Sousse, it represents the Prehistoric art
Triumph of Neptune. Non-exhibition rooms
GREATER TUNIS AND

CAP BON PENINSULA
The coastal suburbs just east of Tunis, including La Goulette,
La Marsa, Carthage and Sidi Bou Saïd, provide an alternative to the
bustle of the city. Drawn by cooling sea breezes, many locals visit
this area on hot summer evenings. Further east is the Cap Bon
peninsula. A major agricultural region since Carthaginian times, Cap Bon
has some fine beaches and has become one of Tunisia’s main resort areas.
Poking out like a finger into the The Carthaginians made the most of
Mediterranean Sea, the Cap Bon peninsula the fertile soil and by the time the
is a mere 140 km (87 miles) from Sicily. Romans settled here the cape
Some geologists believe that it may resembled a spectacular garden,
once have provided a link between and was named the Beautiful Cape
Africa and Europe until rising sea levels or Cap Bon. When the French arrived
cut it off some 30,000 years ago. A range in the 19th century they planted huge
of mountains divides the peninsula citrus groves and vineyards.
lengthways into its eastern and western Even today, many farms thrive and,
portions. The east coast, with its fine thanks to a high level of rainfall and
beaches and historic ruins, is mostly efficient irrigation systems, Cap Bon
given up to resorts such as Hammamet provides the country with 80 per cent
and Nabeul while the west coast is more of its citrus fruit crop, 60 per cent of its
rugged and less frequently visited. grapes and almost half of its vegetables.
Cap Bon is also one of the country’s Most Tunisian wines are also produced
major industrial regions. La Goulette in this area, especially around the town
is a major port, and handles frequent of Grombalia, which has an annual wine
passenger traffic from Europe. festival in September.
Harvesting oranges in Cap Bon

The Mediterranean viewed from the white roofs of the medina, Hammamet
Exploring Greater Tunis and

Cap Bon Peninsula
Greater Tunis and the Cap Bon Peninsula have fine beaches,
fertile land and unique historic sights. A visit to the ruins of
Carthage, once the second city of the Roman Empire, is 0 kilometres 15
unmissable for anyone interested in this period. Just north of 0 miles 15
Carthage, the charming town of Sidi Bou Saïd looks out over
the Gulf of Tunis, and has some fine restaurants. The gently
rolling terrain and rugged coast of Cap Bon are perfect for
exploring, as are the Roman ruins in Kerkouane. Nabeul,
a little way from Hammamet, has a busy market and
is famous for its ceramics. Spring is a good time
to visit, when the scent of orange and
lemon blossom is in the air. Utique
Bizerte
Pont de
Mateur
Bizerte G u l f
Sebkhet
Ariana
GAMMARTH
MANOUBA LA MARSA
Arjana SIDI BOU
Jedeida SAÏD
TUNIS
CARTHAGE
Tébourba
LA GOULETTE
Manouba
LAKE TUNIS
da
jer
T UNI S Radès
ed
M
Ali Hattab Mornaguia Ben Arous Hammam

ed
Sebkhet Lif
Ou
Sejoumi
Furna Fouchana
Borja
Mohammedia Cedria
Medjez
BEN AROUS
el-Bah
OUDNA
El Fahs
Key
Motorway
Major road
Other road
Scenic road
Railway
Regional border
A stall selling Nabeul pottery Salt lake

G R E AT E R T U N I S A N D C A P B O N P E N I N S U L A 97
Getting There
The international airport, Tunis Carthage, is 6 km (4 miles)
from Tunis. The coast of Carthage is linked to Tunis by a
convenient and reasonably priced TGM train service, running
between La Marsa and Tunis Marine station, located at the
end of Avenue Habib Bourguiba. Trains also run between
Nabeul and Hammamet and between Tunis and Hammamet.
The most popular form of transport, however, is the bus,
particularly the louage that runs more frequently and to
many more destinations. A car is especially useful when
exploring the further reaches of the Cap Bon peninsula.
Ile Zemb ret t a

Il e Z e m bra
An alabaster vase from the
Carthage Museum CAP BON
EL-HAOUARIA
SIDI DAOUD
o f T u n i s KERKOUANE
Tazoghrane Hammam
Rezez
Bir Mansourah
Meroua Beach
e
an
KELIBIA
hm
KORBOUS
Ra
N
O
Er
MENZEL TEMIME
B
el
Je b
Soliman
Plage
P
A
Soliman
C
Menzel Bou Zelfa
Beni NABEUL
Khalled
Grombalia
Korba
Bou
Argoub
Maamoura
Bir Bou NABEUL

Regba
HAMMAMET Blue doors, a typical feature of Sidi Bou

Saïd’s houses
Yasmine
Hammamet
Sousse
Sights at a Glance
1 Gammarth 9 Sidi Daoud
2 La Marsa 0 El-Haouaria
3 Sidi Bou Saïd q Cap Bon
4 Carthage pp106–10 w Kerkouane
5 La Goulette e Kelibia
6 Lake Tunis r Menzel Temime
7 Oudna (Uthina) t Nabeul pp116–19
8 Korbous y Hammamet pp122–4

A former beylical bathing pavilion on La Marsa beach
1 Gammarth 2 La Marsa In the late 19th century, the bey

Road map C1. 24 km (15 miles) Road map C1. 22 km (14 miles) north of Tunis built his residence here
northeast of Tunis. of Tunis. _ La Marsa Nights (Jul/Aug). (Abdallia Palace). In order to
make it possible for the ladies of
The smart seaside resort of La Marsa was once a district the court to bathe discreetly, the
Gammarth is an upmarket of Punic Carthage, and known palace was fitted with a specially
place, with expensive hotels, as Megara. In the 7th century it constructed wooden terrace that
magnificent beaches and lush became a port – Marsa er-Rum. rested on pillars over the sea.
greenery. In the past this was just Today, it is known for its beaches Openings were built into the
a small fishing village nestled and boardwalk, and is the floor that allowed the women
beneath cliffs. Holiday-makers favourite weekend playground to get in and out of the water
have been visiting here since for Tunis’s residents. It is easy well away from prying eyes.
the 1950s and now tourism is to get to by TGM train (from The town has some good
the main source of the town’s the end of Avenue Bourguiba beaches and is a popular place.
income. As well as the many in Tunis); the journey takes half Looking from the beach towards
four- and five-star hotels and an hour. It is worth stopping the town, there are a number of
some good restaurants, the for a while at Café Saf-Saf at small white houses standing on
town has some lovely private Place Saf-Saf, to enjoy a snack, hillsides, hidden amid greenery.
villas, hidden away in the hills. a glass of mint tea or a Turkish The smart, tastefully designed
Small sandy coves provide coffee. Look out for the well on hotels all have direct access to
ideal conditions for swimming the terrace which dates back the sea. With Sidi Bou Saïd and
and most water sports. The town to the Hafsid period. Some- Tunis just a short train ride away,
itself is small and its activities times, there may be a camel La Marsa makes a good base for
are firmly aimed at the holiday working the well’s wheel. a Tunisian holiday.
trade. During the high season,
when it can become very busy,
its narrow streets fill with
Paul Klee in Tunisia
boisterous visitors and those “Colour has taken possession
in the know often head a little of me. Colour and I are one.
way north in search of more I am a painter.” So wrote Paul
remote and emptier beaches. Klee (1879–1940), the Swiss-
born painter associated with
the Bauhaus, during his visit
to Tunisia in 1912–14. Klee was
taken aback by the festive
colours he encountered in
Tunis, Sidi Bou Saïd and
Kairouan and his works
from that period, such as those
built up of coloured squares,
were clearly influenced by the
mosaics and arabesques that he
so admired. His Tunisian-inspired
paintings include Sunrise over
Tunis and Camels and Donkeys.
White houses perched on the high Paul Klee
cliffs of Gammarth
Beaches around Tunis

Tunis’s suburbs include over 25 kilometres
(16 miles) of beaches. They can easily be
reached by car or by TGM train from the station
at the end of Avenue Bourguiba. The coastline
is varied – flat around Carthage and La Marsa,
but rocky in the region of Gammarth and Sidi
Bou Saïd. The small coastal towns have plenty
of restaurants and cafés and are ideal for an
afternoon or evening excursion. 5 Gammarth
Gammarth is famous for its
exquisite fish restaurants and its
magnificent sandy beaches. It
Raoued can get busy during the summer
and many of the hotels are often
fully booked at peak times.
J
Sebkhet Ariana
J
J
Amilcar
0 kilometres 2
Carthage
0 miles 2
4 La Marsa
This magnificent resort is
at the end of the train line
that links the coastal towns
with Tunis. It has the region’s
best beaches and some
expensive hotels.
3 Sidi Bou Saïd

Sidi Bou Saïd is worth visiting
at any time of the year.
The view from the main
promenade over the gulf
is truly breathtaking.
2 Salambo
This quiet little town
is full of whitewashed
villas and colourful
flowers and makes a
1 La Goulette welcome alternative
The beaches of La Goulette, being to the bustle of Tunis.
the closest to Tunis, can get busy Its wide, sandy beach
at peak times. Quieter spots can runs along a cove
be found a short distance further that is protected by
afield, at Salambo for instance. a breakwater.

3 Sidi Bou Saïd

Road map C1. 20 km (12 miles)
north of Tunis. * 16,000.
_ Kharja Festival (Jun).
Perched on top of high cliffs,

Sidi Bou Saïd enjoys a
commanding view over the
Gulf of Tunis. It is named after
Sidi Bou Saïd, a 13th-century
Sufi holy man (1156–1231),
who settled here on the return
journey from his pilgrimage
to Mecca. From then on, the
village (known at the time as
Jabal el-Menar) became a
centre of Sufism, and attracted
pilgrims from all over the
country. The area around his
tomb became the burial ground Sidi Bou Saïd’s panorama, seen from the south
for other Sufis. Although there
are no longer processions In the early 18th century, our family, this place has always
heading to the tomb of Sidi Hassan ibn Ali Bey ordered a been a symbol of continuity
Bou Saïd, the grave and its mosque to be built here, which and tradition.”
adjacent small mosque are still was entered via a magnificent Since the days when Paul Klee
visited by the Muslim faithful. gate and stairway. Today, the visited, the village has grown in
It is accessed via the narrow stairway and entrance to Café size and beauty. Its smart streets
stairs, right behind Café des des Nattes stand on exactly the are full of flowers; the freshly
Nattes (see below). same spot. In the 19th century whitewashed walls reflect the
Mahmoud Bey built his summer strong midday light. Yet it
residence here. Soon afterwards, remains an artists’ village, full
Blue Doors
the charms of this pretty of galleries and studios, while
It was Baron d’Erlanger who town, with its cobbled streets the former palace of Baron
gave Sidi Bou Saïd its blue and narrow alleyways, were d’Erlanger (now the Centre
and white colour scheme. The discovered by the wealthy of Arab and Mediterranean
scores of blue doors in the residents of Tunis who Music) stages concerts of
village are only superficially came here hoping to escape malouf music (see opposite).
identical. In reality, they differ the summer heat. A summer day in Sidi Bou
from each other in terms of The Café des Nattes is the Saïd is broken by a long siesta,
size and their ornamentation.
village’s hot spot and was the when a drowsy silence and
The most popular motifs
favourite haunt of the 1920s calm descends upon its streets
include moon crescents, stars
and minarets. Blue and white avant-garde artists who came
dominate the streets and here. It remains highly popular
courtyards. The white walls to this day and is a good place
provide a striking background to enjoy a traditional glass of
for the deep-blue shutters, mint tea with pine kernels.
ornate window grilles and During the day the café can get
colourful doorways. busy as tour buses stop off to
explore the town. Early in the
morning and later at night it
is a much quieter place when
it’s taken over by locals, quietly
reading their newspapers.
The café’s decor has not changed
in years and the yellowed
photographs lining the walls
bear witness to its famous
guests, including Simone de
Beauvoir, André Gide and
Jean-Paul Sartre. But, as the
present owner of the café says,
A blue door with “The foreigners were only
studded ornamentation passing through here. They The main street leading to
came and they went. But to Café des Nattes
stands almost on the site of An enthusiastic musicologist,

the café. Standing here, and the Baron was a major force
looking in the direction of the behind the first Congress of
sea, it is easy to see how much Arab Music, which was held
has remained from bygone in Cairo in 1932 and it is
days. It is also worth visiting possible to hear wonderful
the fishing harbour and the concerts of rare Arab music
yacht marina. From here the performed here. The Baron’s
whole village can be seen tomb stands in the park that
resting on the slope of a hill, surrounds the palace.
amid lush greenery. Sidi Bou Saïd is easily
Another place to look out reached by TGM train,
for is Dar Ennejma Ezzahra, which runs between Tunis
a former palace which now and La Marsa. On leaving
houses the Centre of Arab and the small station, follow the
Mediterranean Music. It was road uphill and the street leads
built between 1912–22 for to Café des Nattes. Alter-
Baron Rodolphe d’Erlanger, a natively, climb up through the
member of a rich small, beautifully kept
French banking park on the right-hand
Yachts in Sidi Bou Saïd’s marina family of side of the street that
German leads up to the
and alleyways. The hum ceases descent. The village centre.
and the women, shrouded in Baron first visited Most visitors
white veils, disappear behind Tunisia at the stop here just for
the houses’ blue doors. It is age of 16, fell in a few hours, but in
only along the steep, main love with the order to soak up the
street of the village that country and atmosphere of the
shopkeepers remain open, swapped his place it is well worth
waiting for holiday-makers to banking career spending a night
whom they offer Bedouin for a painter’s here. An overnight
jewellery, intricate scent easel. The site stay allows time
boxes and aromatic oils. Heat of the palace, A watercolour from a to attend a concert
permitting, this can be a good which was built Sidi Bou Saïd gallery of malouf music in
time to explore the cobbled for his wife the evening, and
streets and alleys of the town. Elizabeth, was carefully chosen in the morning enjoy a drink
The pretty, whitewashed so as not to upset the of strong mint tea on the
houses rise and fall in line with character of the village. Built terrace of Café des Nattes.
the cobbled streets that climb on the hillside, it overlooks the
the ridge of the hill. Their sea and village. As well as the E The Centre of Arab and
white walls are covered with architecture and wonderful Mediterranean Music
purple bougainvillea and their gardens, the museum has a Tel (71) 980 138.
gates are garlanded with good selection of traditional Open Tue–Sun: 9am–noon
scented jasmine. musical instruments and some & 2–7pm (summer); 2–5pm
A number of Sidi Bou Saïd’s rare recordings of Arab music. (winter). &
mansions are open to visitors.
One of these is Dar el-Annabi at
18 Rue Docteur Habib Thameur,
Birdcages
just off Place 7 Novembre. Sidi Bou Saïd is famous for its
Several of the 55 rooms of this beautiful birdcages. Made of
300-year-old house are open wire and often painted white,
to the public and a terrace they look like miniature
offers magnificent views of the mausoleums. The design of
town and the gulf beyond. the birdcages resembles the
Not far from Café des curved window grilles found
Nattes, the street turns into a in the wooden shutters of
traditional Arab houses.
promenade with an amazing
Tunisians are fond of pet birds,
view over the bay. From here
particularly canaries. Empty
head for the magnificently cages can often be seen in
sited Café Sidi Chabaane. hotel reception areas, serving as
The zaouia (tomb) built here decorations or as mailboxes for
in 1870 is associated with Sidi residents’ letters and postcards. An ornate wire birdcage
Sheb’an – a mystic, poet and
musician. Today, his tomb
Artists in Sidi Bou Saïd

Among Tunisian artists, Sidi Bou Saïd enjoyed a reputation as an “artist’s village” long
before the arrival of the European painters, but it was the latter who made it world-
famous. Enchanted with the place, artists such as Paul Klee, August Macke and Louis
Moilliet visited in 1914 and stayed much longer than they originally planned. The
Tunisian light transformed their painting. In the works of Paul Klee, for instance, brown
and black graphics gave way to vivid colours. The arrival of European artists was to have
a significant effect on Tunisian painting, and prompted the emergence of a salon that
included European, Muslim and Jewish artists. Out of this grew the École de Tunis,
which took Tunisian daily life as its subject matter and included paintings of cafés,
markets and hammams.
A traditional Brahim Dhahak

lifestyle was a (1931–2004) was
frequent theme of one of the most
painters from the outstanding
École de Tunis. This artists of the
picture by Ammar École de Tunis,
Farhat conveys the although he is
colour and mood of less well known
the Tunisian siesta than Yahia Turki.
splendidly. His
paintings may be far
removed from the
popular image of
Tunisia, but are
essentially true.
Portrait of an Old Woman is the

work of Yahia Turki (1902–69),
one of the early members
of the École de Tunis.
The expressive sketch,
drawn with ink and
crayon, depicts in great
detail not only a person
but also her emotions. In
the context of Tunisian art, Still Life with Fish by Brahim Dhahak is
this is an extraordinary work. proof that Tunisian artists are also skilled
in the use of engraving techniques.
This lithograph clearly shows the
influence of modernist European artists.
Man on a
Donkey is also
by Brahim
Dhahak. It
captures the
magnificent light
and wonderful
colours that once
so entranced
Paul Klee and
August Macke.
The Night Scene is painted in pastels. The

expressive power of many École de Tunis artists lies
in their ability to depict mood through colour.
Remains of an 18th-century arsenal, constructed by Hammouda ibn Ali Bey, in La Goulette
4 Carthage The country’s long shoreline public knowledge and causes

See pp106–10.
(over 1,300 km/800 miles) a temporary upset in the staid
means that fishing still plays an life of the village. La Goulette
important part in Tunisia’s can be reached in less than ten
5 La Goulette economy. Many of La Goulette’s minutes by TGM train from
fishermen can be seen in the Tunis. The best time to visit the
northeast of Tunis. evenings, heading out to sea village is in the late afternoon or
where they fish at night with evening, on the way back from
La Goulette – an old fort and lights, returning in the morning La Marsa’s beach or a trip to
the harbour for Tunis – lies a in time to deliver their valuable Carthage. There is a beach near
short distance from the capital. catch to the town’s restaurants La Goulette, but in view of the
The town was first developed as and markets. harbour’s proximity and the
a port and strategic outpost by Many Tunis residents come resulting pollution, it is better
the Arabs in the 7th century after here to enjoy fish and seafood to swim elsewhere.
they had captured Tunis. In the in one of the local restaurants
16th century it was a stronghold as La Goulette is reputed to
for pirates who were allowed to have the best fish restaurants 6 Lake Tunis
stay here by the Hafsid sultan, in Tunisia. Depending on the Road map C1.
Mohammed V, who feared an season, fresh gilthead, bream or
attack by the Spanish. The attack tuna are excellent. In the 9th century, the Arabs dug
duly came and the pirates La Goulette is also a major a canal about 10 km (6 miles)
proved to be no match for the passenger port – almost all long to link Tunis with the sea.
Spanish forces. In 1535 the ferries going to Italy and France This created the artificial Lake
Spanish King Charles V built a set off from here. Tunis. The widening of its mouth
fort here. The fort was later des- At one time La Goulette was allowed two harbours to be built
troyed and in its place the also renowned for its religious – one on each side of the canal.
Ottomans built a massive kasbah, tolerance. This is vividly illustrat- The lake – not particularly
which remains to this day. ed by the 1995 Franco-Tunisian picturesque in itself – is now a
La Goulette began to grow comedy Un été à la Goulette, brackish lagoon attracting
rapidly in the 17th century, due which is set in 1967. The film various species of bird, including
to the construction of the tells the story of three teenage seagulls, white and grey heron,
harbour. Led by Dutch engineers, girls – one Christian, one Jewish and, during the winter months –
the development included the and one Muslim – who decide flocks of flamingoes and
canal, the basin and the arsenal. to undergo their sexual initiation, cormorants. The lake can be
The numbers of Europeans each with a boy of a different crossed by TGM train (Tunis–La
living in the town gradually faith. The girls’ plan becomes Goulette–La Marsa) or by car.
increased from year to year.
During the French Protectorate,
the kasbah was used as a
temporary prison. The name La
Goulette – “the gullet” or “throat”
that separates the sea from Lake
Tunis – dates from those days.
Today La Goulette (along with
Mahdia, Sfax, Kelibia, Tabarka
and Bizerte) is a major fishing
port and the coastal section of
Tunis harbour. Here, fishermen
can be seen returning in their
rowing boats with their catch. Angler on the shores of Lake Tunis
4 Carthage R F Cathedral of St Louis

Byrsa Hill. Tel (71) 733 866. Open daily:
Scattered ruins are all that remain of one of the most 8:30am–7pm (summer); 9am–5pm
powerful cities of the ancient world. Carthage was founded (winter). & ∑ acropolium
carthage.com
in 814 BC by Phoenician colonizers. By the 4th century BC it
The cathedral was built in 1890
had become the major force in this part of the Mediterranean.
by Cardinal Lavigerie. It was
The Punic wars led to the destruction of the city although it dedicated to the French King
rose again under Roman rule. It was subsequently conquered Louis IX who died of the plague
by the Vandals, who were replaced by the Byzantines in the while laying siege to Carthage
6th century. Following its capture by the Arabs in AD 695, in 1270. Cardinal Lavigerie was
Carthage gradually fell into ruins. an enterprising person – he
founded the Order of the White
Fathers, which was active
throughout Africa. Its nuns and
monks proved to be outstanding
archaeologists and were the first
to begin investigations into
Tunisia’s past. Lavigerie was also
responsible for resurrecting the
Carthage bishopric.
The building has not served as
a place of worship since 1964
and was rebranded in the 1990s
as the Acropolium de Byrsa. It is
now used as a venue for classical
concerts and exhibitions.
E Carthage Museum
St Louis Cathedral towering over the ancient city See pp108–109.
Exploring Carthage the remains of the Roman villas,

Carthage Museum stands on and the ruins of the Basilica of
Byrsa Hill, right next to the St Cyprian. From here, a road
Cathedral of St Louis. To the leads to the best-preserved
north of the museum, close by, fragment of Carthage – the
is the 2nd-century Theatre of Antonine Baths. In summer,
Hadrian, which stages perform- there is a horse-drawn carriage
ances in summer during the that tours the main sites. It
International Cultural Festival. can be hired near Carthage
Sights that should not be Hannibal station. The trip lasts
missed include the ruins of two hours and the price should
the Roman amphitheatre, be settled in advance.
Hannibal (247–182 BC)

Hannibal was one of the greatest military
commanders of the ancient world. In the course Foundations of Punic houses unearthed on
of the Second Punic War he embarked upon a Byrsa Hill
long and arduous march across the Pyrenees,
southern Gaul and the Alps. Although his army T Byrsa Hill
was not large, it was exceptionally well Climbing to the top of Byrsa
trained. Following his legendary crossing Hill affords a magnificent view
of the Alps, Hannibal took on the might
of the area and makes this a
of the Roman army. Despite early
successes, the Carthaginians were
good place to begin a visit to
eventually defeated and made to pay Carthage. Under Punic rule it
huge reparations. At home, an attempt was the heart of the city and
to introduce democratic reforms brought had a temple dedicated to
Hannibal into opposition with the ruling the Carthaginian god
classes and he was forced to flee Carthage. Eschmoun. The Romans, after
A marble bust Unable to reconcile himself to the loss of his razing Carthage to the ground,
of Hannibal homeland, he committed suicide. levelled the top of the hill to
accommodate their capitol
and forum. In the process they
Traditional courtyard of a house in Sidi Bou Saïd
CARTHAGE 107
north of Tunis. _ International
Film Festival (Oct).
Transport
£ TGM Carthage–Hannibal.
the birth of the emperor’s

son. Several Christians were
put to death on that occasion
Carthage’s amphitheatre, capable of seating 3,000 spectators including St Perpetua who
was gored by “a most savage
buried some Punic villas that T Amphitheatre cow” before being run through
were later uncovered by Avenue du 7 Novembre. Open by a sword.
French archaeologists. Byrsa Apr–mid-Sep: 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun;
Hill is now dominated by the mid-Sep–Mar: 8:30am–5:30pm. & T Roman Villas
Cathedral of St Louis and the The amphitheatre was one Open Apr–mid-Sep: 8:30am–7pm
Carthage Museum. of the largest in the Roman Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–Mar:
Empire. Games were the 8:30am–5:30pm. &
T Antonine Baths favourite recreation of the The reign of Caesar Augustus
Avenue des Thermes d’Antonin. Open Carthaginians. In AD 203 a brought with it stability and
Apr–mid-Sep: 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun; show was staged to celebrate economic growth. The emperor
mid-Sep–Mar: 8:30am–5:30pm. & created favourable conditions
These 2nd-century baths were for land and sea trade, which
once the largest in Africa. Their resulted in the growing
soaring vaults rested on eight prosperity of the urban upper
lofty columns made of grey and middle classes, including
sandstone, and the frigidarium natives of Tunisia. In the 2nd
was the size of a cathedral. century AD, Carthage reached
Destroyed by the Vandals in the peak of its development.
AD 439, all that is left are ruins, The villas date from this period.
including a handful of rooms Much of the site is overgrown,
and the remains of the vaults. though the restored 3rd-
Nevertheless, the complex still century Villa de la Volières still
makes a deep impression. The impressive ruins of the Antonine Baths has its original floor mosaics.
Carthage LA MARSA
1 Cathedral of St Louis
RU
2 Carthage Museum
EM
RUE
ROO
OH
SEV
3 Byrsa Hill E LT
AM
AV
4 Antonine Baths
ED A
EN
AV
U
ED
5 Amphitheatre
LI
E
E L’
Cathedral 7
6 Roman Villas
A
of St Louis SIDI BOU SAÏD

MP
Roman
NOV
HIT
Byrsa Hill Villas

HEA
EM
Amphitheatre Carthage
TRE
Presidential
BRE
Carthage
Museum I BA St Cyprian
GU Basilica
UR
Carthage
Hannibal
BO
AV
Carthage
AV D'A N T O N
Carthage
IB
Byrsa Dermech HAB
D
ENU
Antonine
E S T H IN
UE
AVEN
Presidential
Baths Palace
Roman and
ERM
E 2
Carthage Magon
Salammbo Paleo-Christian EHR I Quarter
AIEB M
ES
Museum RUE T
MARS
TUNIS
Punic
Ports
AV
L
IBA
FARH
NN
R U E HA
T H A
Tophet
Oceanographic
AC
Museum
0 metres
HED
750
0 yards 750

Carthage Museum
The museum stands on top of a hill,
surrounded by a beautiful expanse of grass.
One of its terraces adjoins the foundations
of the Punic villas, which were discovered
by French archaeologists. The museum is
arranged chronologically with Punic, Roman,
Christian and Arab displays. Among these
are inscriptions, marble sarcophagi, everyday
objects from Punic and Roman Carthage,
and colourful Phoenician masks. Model of Carthage
Situated on the first floor of the
museum, this model provides
a good basis for appreciating
the scale of Carthage and
its ports.
. Mosaics
The museum displays only a
handful of mosaics but all are
very well preserved. Most are
from the Roman-African period.
The mosaic pictured here, which
symbolizes summer, depicts a
woman gathering fruit.
Gallery Guide Jug (11th century BC)

Terracotta vessels
The museum houses exhibits were already being
dating from the Phoenician- produced in the early
Punic, Roman-African and days of Carthage. The
Arab eras. The Phoenician- most popular
Punic exhibits occupy the items included
ground floor. Here there candlesticks, lamps
are, among other things, and jugs made in
Punic ceramics and Punic fanciful shapes and
sarcophagi. The first floor decorated in blue
is mostly devoted to and crimson.
exhibits from the Roman
and Arab periods and
includes some fine Roman
sculptures and mosaics.
Ground floor
Phoenician Art
Characteristic of Phoenician art are
sarcophagi with a human figure on the lid;
other typical objects include terracotta
figurines, jewellery products, ivory items Key
and masks. Vast numbers of amulets made Mosaics
of a glass and silica compound bear Ceramics
witness to the important role played by
magic in everyday life, as well as to the Archaeological finds
influence of Egyptian art and religion.
Punic tombstone of a man, from the

Carthage Museum

CARTHAGE 109
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Further Afield

On the other side of Avenue
Practical Information Bourguiba is the Magon Quarter
Byrsa Hill. Tel (71) 730 036. Open where there are some Punic
8:30am–5pm (Apr: 8:30am–6pm; floor mosaics. Further on, along
May–mid-Sep: 7:30am–7pm). & the main road to Tunis, is the
Transport Roman and Paleo-Christian
£ Carthage–Hannibal. Museum. A little to the east
of this are the remains of the
Punic Ports. Another very
. Phoenician Coin interesting site is the nearby
Phoenician coin dating from the Tophet (Phoenician burial
5th century BC from Tyre. Coins place), which is also known as
also appeared in Ardos, Sydon the Tanit and Baal Hammon
and Byblos at this time. sanctuary (see p110).
T St Cyprian Basilica
£ TGM Carthage–Amilcar.
Jug (7th century BC) St Cyprian, a prominent writer
Carthaginian ceramics include and a theologian of great
jugs with an upturned top and
standing, was a bishop of
triple spouts. These items began
Carthage. He preached church
to appear in the late 8th century
and were produced until the end unity based on the unity of the
of the 6th century BC. College of Bishops and was an
advocate of the bishop’s power
in his own local community.
He died a martyr’s death during
the persecution of Christians
under Emperor Valerian’s rule,
in AD 258.
This Byzantine basilica that
bears his name was probably
the initial resting place of the
saint, though that is open to
dispute. Situated at the north
end of the town, this eight-aisle
church is one of a handful of the
Christian historic remains in
Punic Vase Carthage, along with the mighty
Phoenician vessels were Damous el-Karita Basilica.
made using a simple potter’s
1st floor wheel and fired in tall round P Presidential Palace
furnaces which were built of Avenue Habib Bourguiba. £ TGM
brick. The typical colour of Carthage–Presidence. Closed ^
Punic ceramics was light red. The Presidential Palace stands
on a hill above the Gulf of Tunis,
near the Antonine Baths. It is
from here that the best view
of the palace, engulfed by the
greenery of its vast garden, can
be found. When photographing
the Roman baths remember
not to point the camera at the
palace. In Tunisia it is prohibited
to photograph government
buildings, soldiers and
policemen. In this case the
law is strictly enforced. The
Bronze Vase main entrance to the palace is
This exquisitely decorated vessel, through the gate at Avenue
intended for water or wine, was made Bourguiba. Following protests
in the 5th century BC. Objects of this type against the government in
were very highly valued by the Phoenicians 2011, the army took over the
as well as by their trading partners. duty of guarding the palace.
Former Punic Port at the south end of Carthage
E Roman and Paleo- heyday, these ports could the main act of this ancient
Christian Museum accommodate 220 vessels. The Phoenician cult and this is the
Access from Carthage Dermish Park. southern square-shaped basin oldest surviving site of its kind
Tel (71) 731 460. Open daily. & was for commercial shipping, in Carthage. Although no one
∑ commune-carthage.go while the northern circular knows for certain, it is believed
This museum has objects basin was used as the naval that offerings were made of
dating from the Roman period harbour. The two harbours animals, people (often
of Carthage’s history (5th–7th would have been linked. The foreigners and enemies), and
century AD). Also among the entrance was via a channel in most of all children. They were
exhibits are some early Christian the sea which led to the sacrificed to the goddess
remains and some mosaic frag- commercial port. A scale model (originally the offerings were
ments. The origins of Christianity at the edge of the naval harbour made to Baal Hammon, and
in the Roman Province of gives some idea of just what a only later to Tanit). According
Proconsular Africa probably go wonder these ports once were. to some theories, the children
back to the late 1st century. In Between the two ports is an were laid in the arms of a
the museum grounds are what Oceanographic Museum which bronze statue, from where
little remains of the Basilica of has aquariums and some they fell into the flames. The
Carthagenna (6th century AD). interactive displays. parents were not allowed to
cry, as their grief was believed
T Punic Ports T Tophet to diminish the sacrifice.
Avenue du Mars 1934. Rue Hannibal. £ Carthage–Salambo. When Agathocles defeated
£ Carthage–Byrsa. Open Apr–mid-Sep: 8am–7pm the Carthaginians in 310 BC,
Unfortunately, not much remains Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–Mar: 8:30am– the town citizens reputedly
of these two ports which were 5:30pm. & sacrificed 300 children in order
once the powerhouse of These ruins are all that remains to appease the gods.
Carthage’s prosperity and the of the Tophet, or sanctuary, The oldest part of the Tophet
envy of Rome. Imagination is that was dedicated to the includes the tiny Cintas shrine,
needed, therefore, to visualize Carthaginian divinities Tanit which has a small niche carved
the pride of the Punic fleet in and Baal Hammon (see p114). into the rock where some
these two small ponds. In their Sacrifice may well have been 8th-century pots were found. In
front of the building is a
courtyard with an altar and
Dido and Aeneas three concentric walls forming a
According to Virgil’s epic poem the Aeneid, Aeneas fled Troy after kind of labyrinth through which
its destruction by the Greeks and set sail with a handful of refugees everyone wishing to enter the
on a divine mission to found a new Troy in Italy. He was shipwrecked sanctuary had to pass.
off Carthage and taken in by the Phoenician Princess Dido. Soon they
fell passionately in love. Torn between his love for Dido and the will
of the gods, Aeneas
left to fulfil his destiny
and began a series of
adventures that ended
with the founding of
Rome. Heartbroken,
Dido stabbed herself,
offering her life to
Carthage. Her body
was burned on a
funeral pyre.
Dido Receiving Aeneas, Francesco Solimena Tophet – a magnificent and tragic
monument to Punic culture
CARTHAGE 111
Phoenician Culture
The Phoenicians were great explorers and during the early years of the first millennium
BC they ventured as far as Spain and into the Atlantic, establishing a number of colonies
including the one at Carthage. The Phoenicians brought with them a culture based on a
blend of Egyptian, Anatolian, Greek and Mesopotamian influences. One of their greatest
contributions was the alphabet, which was adapted by the Greeks, and spread with the
rise of the Roman Empire. The Phoenicians were also skilled in carving, metalwork,
sculpture and jewellery. Many Phoenician remains were found at Carthage, and
excavations carried out in Kairouan also reveal Punic houses containing well-preserved
mosaics. Phoenician tombs have also been found in Cap Bon and in Utique.
Phoenician cemeteries
show that the Phoenicians
and their Punic descendants
believed in an afterlife.
Embalmed bodies, elaborate
sarcophagi and inscriptions
warning against disturbing
the dead indicate just how
strong this belief was.
The Punic alphabet, with its

elongated, gently curving
letters, was widely used in
Carthage and throughout the
western Phoenician colonies.
Altars in the form of shrines (cippi)

gave way in the 5th century BC to
steles, with triangular tops. These
often bear an engraved motif of a
moon crescent or a stylized figure.
Necklaces made of glass

compound were popular
adornments. Jewellery played
an important role in Carthage.
Miniature masks, amulets,
scarabs and golden plates
were often added to necklaces.
Terracotta female figures were first produced around the

6th century BC. They may have been inspired by Egyptian
art as figures unearthed at Carthage resemble those found
on Egyptian sarcophagi. The use of masks in religious
ceremonies was also widespread in Carthage.
main health resort and many of

the local hotels and sanatoriums
offer water and steam
treatments to elderly Tunisians.
The natural hot springs bubble
up out of the ground at about
44–60° C (112–140° F) and
contain high levels of sulphur.
Korbous is an unassuming
place, though there are now
plans to convert this hitherto
quiet resort into a large spa,
with a marina and luxury hotels.
The main attraction of the town
is the hammam (bath), located
Oudna (Uthina), one of the oldest Roman colonies in Africa in the former bey’s palace.
Public bathing played a
7 Oudna (Uthina) Environs prominent role in the life of the
Before reaching Oudna, it is Roman towns in North Africa.
south of Tunis. Open Apr–mid-Sep: worth stopping in Mohammedia The custom of using alternate
9am–7pm Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–Mar: to see the ruins of the Palace hot and cold baths, borrowed
8:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & of Ahmed Bey (1837–56) which from the Greeks, assumed great
was intended to rival Versailles importance in Rome and its
This former Berber settlement in its grandeur. About 2 km dominions. Bath complexes
is one of the oldest Roman (1 mile) from the village, were the centre of town life and
colonies in Africa, and was running parallel to the Tunis– often included playing fields,
founded during the reign of Zaghouan road, are the remains libraries and relaxation rooms
Octavian Augustus. The modern- of a Roman aqueduct that once with mosaic floors and frescoes.
day ruins of Roman Uthina (now carried water to Carthage. Wealthy people sometimes
called Oudna) divide into two spent whole days in the baths –
main sections. Immediately by resting and enjoying discussions.
the entrance stands a complex 8 Korbous The local waters are thought
of buildings, some of which Road map D1. 50 km (31 miles)
to be good for curing arthritis
have been reconstructed, northeast of Tunis. and beneficial in cases of
including Roman villas, private gastric ailments.
and public baths, cisterns, a Korbous lies on the Cap Bon One famous landmark to
theatre and a 2nd-century peninsula and is set in a deep look out for in Korbous is the
amphitheatre. The second part, ravine that opens to the sea Zarziha Rock, which can be
which includes the capitol, has near the village of Sidi Rais. found near the presidential
been largely unexcavated and Popular as a health resort since palace. According to legend,
lies a few hundred yards away, Roman times when it was it is supposed to cure infertility.
adjoining a small village and known as Aquae Calidau The edges of the stone have
the remains of the colonial Carpitanae, the waters here are been polished smooth by the
buildings. This part of Oudna believed by many Tunisians to hands of those who come here
can be visited free of charge. have health-giving properties. to seek its help.
Founded at the beginning In the late 19th century, Not much remains here of the
of the 1st century AD, Uthina Korbous was developed by old buildings. The fortress that
was a typical Roman town and the French, while Ahmed Bey towers over the town dates
attracted wealthy veterans from founded a spa resort here in back to the Roman period.
the Roman army. The hub of its 1901. Korbous is today Tunisia’s A hot spring, Aïn el-Atrous,
public life was the market
square (forum), which was
surrounded by the town’s most
important buildings, including
the capitol (the seat of the local
authorities), a courthouse and
the marketplace. One of the
corners of the forum was usually
adjoined by a smaller market
square, known as the macellum.
The most valuable mosaics,
including one depicting Venus
bathing, are now on display in
the Bardo Museum. Bathers in the hot springs in Korbous
can be found a short way north

of town. Here water at 50° C Falconry
(122° F) shoots out of the ground Hunting with falcons has
via an underground pipe and always been a favourite
falls over steps down to the sea. pastime of Arab kings and
This is a very popular picnic princes. Even today,
spot, particularly at weekends. falconry enjoys great
popularity. Its main centre
in Tunisia is El-Haouaria. In
9 Sidi Daoud March, young peregrine
falcons are caught in nets.
Road map D1. Only the female birds are
kept, because they are
This fishing village located bigger and more predatory.
on the peninsula’s headland, These are then trained for
opposite the island of Zembra, a special falconry festival
is famous for tuna fishing. To that takes place in June.
this day the locals use an old- After this, most of the
fashioned method, known as birds are set free to
Matanza, that dates back to Man training a falcon for hunting resume their migrations.
Roman times. This technique
employs a huge net containing
a series of chambers of Cap Bon, surrounded by a Zembra, during which trained
decreasing sizes which is laid turquoise sea. The view from birds are used for hunting
some 4 km (2 miles) out to sea. here over the sea and its before being set free.
The fish are caught and swim breaking waves is truly awe-
from chamber to chamber until inspiring. Two kilometres Environs
they all reach the smallest one. (1 mile) from the centre of Almost directly opposite
The net is closed and dragged the modern village is the site El-Haouaria, 15 km (9 miles)
to the surface. The fishermen of the old Roman quarries from from Sidi Daoud, lies the
then jump into the nets and which marble was cut and picturesque island of Zembra
set about the tuna with clubs, transported by slaves to and, separated from it by 5 km
knives and harpoons. The Carthage, El-Djem and other (3 miles) of water, the tiny island
Matanza takes place in May and Roman towns. All that remains of Zembretta. Zembra was
June during the spawning of the quarries are two dozen once popular with scuba divers
season. For the rest of the year vermilion caves running along but both islands and the waters
the village is quiet. the coast. Some of these are that surround them have been
30 metres (98 ft) high. A little declared a nature reserve and
further out of town is the are now off-limits to visitors. In
0 El-Haouaria Chauves-Souris cave, which is the spring and summer they
Road map D1. Open daily: 8am–7pm inhabited by hundreds of bats. provide resting points for
(summer); 8:30am–5:30pm (winter). Visitors should make sure that migrating birds. They are also
_ Falconry Festival (Jun). they have a guide and a torch. home to 260 species of plants,
The village is famous for its four of which are endemic. The
El-Haouaria is perched high June falconry show held on its surrounding waters support
on the rugged headland of outskirts, opposite the island of many types of fish.
El-Haouaria, site of a lifetime of slavery in the quarries

Goddess Tanit
From the 5th century onwards,
the goddess Tanit occupied
the highest position in the
pantheon of the Punic gods.
Associated with the cult of
fertility, she was believed to be
the personification of both the
sun and the moon. Sometimes
she is depicted by a crescent
moon turned upside down
and joined onto the disc of the
sun. At other times, her image
Peppers – one of Cap Bon’s main crops is formed from a triangle, a
horizontal line and a circle.
q Cap Bon Tunisian Saint Tropez, although
Road map D1, D2. it is rather less exclusive than it
once was. The main road along
A short way from Europe and the rugged west coast runs
within easy reach of Carthage, inland where the scattered
Cap Bon has long had an villages are isolated and little
economic importance. Its visited, apart from Korbous, which
main ports were once used as is renowned for its hot springs.
harbours for Phoenician ships,
while the fertile coastal areas w Kerkouane
supported agriculture. Here, the
Phoenicians cultivated cereals Road map D1. Open 9am–6pm daily.
and grapes from which they
produced wine. The Romans Kerkouane is situated on the
continued these traditions and high cliffs of Cap Bon. Between
it was only the Arab conquest the 4th and the 2nd century BC
that put an end to wine this was a Punic town with a Mosaic with the stylized symbol of
production. Under French rule, population of 2,000 and was the goddess Tanit
the Cap Bon peninsula was controlled by Carthage. The
revived once again when it Second Punic War put an end
became an important area of to the town’s existence when that the town’s inhabitants
European settlement. More vine- it was abandoned. The town were not only sophisticated
yards were planted at this time, was rediscovered in 1952 by a but also had a high standard of
along with huge citrus groves. French archaeologist. living. Most impressive of all
Although tourism plays an Kerkouane has been are the houses’ baths, with their
increasingly important role, remarkably well preserved and, well-preserved floors, walls and
especially around the beaches from the remaining foundations, sanitary equipment. Many of
of Hammamet and Nabeul, the it is easy to see the chequer- the houses have their own bath,
production of vegetables and board layout of the streets. suggesting that the owners
fruit still provides the main Little was known about Punic liked to bathe in private.
source of income. For this reason, architecture before the Very little is known about
the peninsula has preserved a discovery of Kerkouane, but this town and it was named
quiet, rural character, particularly from the size of the houses and Kerkouane by the French
inland. In the small village of the wide streets, it is apparent archaeologist who found it.
Soliman for instance, with its
beds of spinach, beans and
potatoes, time seems to have
ground to a halt. In Menzel Bou
Zelfa, orange and lemon groves
fill the spring air with the heady
scent of blossom.
On the east coast, Kelibia and
Menzel Temime are famous for
their colourful markets, while
the busy resort town of Nabeul
is known for its ceramics and
its magnificent beach. Just
along the coast from Nabeul is
Hammamet, once called the Kerkouane and its ruins of a Punic town
From the artifacts that have

been found here, it is probable
that much of Kerkouane’s
wealth was based on the
production of a dye, highly
prized at the time, known as
Tyrian purple (after Tyre, the
Phoenician capital).
e Kelibia
Road map D1. 50 km (31 miles)
along the coast from Nabeul.
Open 8am–6pm daily.
_ Amateur Film Festival (Jul).
Set at the very tip of Cap Bon,

on its eastern side this small Kelibia – situated at the tip of Cap Bon
town gives the impression
of being fully surrounded by The lighthouse, dating from beach, 2 km (1 mile) to the
water. It dates back to Punic the early years of Arab rule, north, is long, sandy and often
times (being for a while a now houses a meteorological almost deserted.
trading outpost of Syracuse), station and provides a
as well as to the Roman magnificent panoramic view
Empire (as the Roman of the surrounding country. r Menzel Temime
settlement of Clupea). Kelibia is also known for its Road map D1. ( Tue.
Its history resembles that white wines, particularly the
of many other Punic hamlets dry muscat. During the period of the Roman
in that it began life as a Berber The town’s main sight is the Empire, the wealth of this area
settlement. Conquered by old fort that overlooks the was based almost entirely on
Agathocles in 310 BC, and by harbour. The present building the cultivation of cereals and
Regulus in 256 BC, it suffered was erected by the Byzantines olives, vineyards and fig
devastating damage in the in the 6th century AD and was orchards and the vast country
course of the Third Punic War, further modified by the estates brought great fortunes
when the Romans nearly Spanish and the Turkish. The to their owners. It was here that
demolished it. Almost nothing gun emplacements were laid the new colonial system was
remains from Punic and here by German forces during first introduced. It involved an
Roman times. The only relic World War II. annual tax, paid in kind – in the
that has survived is the late Next to Lake Ichkeul, Kelibia form of grain and oil – that was
6th-century Byzantine fortress. is the most important bird- levied on large estates and used
breeding ground in Tunisia. to feed the Roman populace.
The local lake changes its Located a short way from
size and shape depending on Kelibia, Menzel Temime is
the amount of rain. At times known for its spices, the strings
of high annual rainfall its area of sun-dried red peppers, and
grows to include the above all for its huge Tuesday
surrounding marshes. During market where farmers from the
the high season, the lake may entire peninsula congregate.
attract over a quarter of a Pyramids of fruit and
million birds. Unfortunately, vegetables create fantastic
low water levels have caused multicoloured mosaics.
the number of birds to
decrease significantly. Species Environs
still seen include heron and A little further away lies the
flamingo. The area around the picturesque village of Korba.
lake is also visited by many Korba is nicknamed the “red
species of birds that inhabit village” because of the quantity
dry and desert areas. The best of tomatoes, peppers and
view of the lake is from its strawberries that are grown
northeastern end, from the here. There is much local
road near the GP2 and MC 48 produce worth buying in the
junction. Kelibia’s beach is village, including the home-
small and often covered with made hot and spicy Tunisian
Market stalls in Menzel Temime seaweed, whereas Mansourah sauce called harissa.
t Nabeul Together with Avenue Hedi

Chaker, it forms the town’s
Just up the coast from Hammamet, Nabeul is the commercial centre and is
administrative centre of Cap Bon and is known for its crammed with workshops and
beautiful beaches, busy market and wonderful ceramics. small shops selling ceramics.
The heart of the town is Place
The original Punic town was destroyed by the Romans but
du 7 Novembre, at the junction
later on Julius Caesar established a colony here, the ruins of Avenue Habib Thameur and
of which were accidentally discovered in 1964 during the Avenue Habib Bourguiba. The
construction of the first tourist hotel in town. With the arrival vast clay jug vessel here is
of the Arabs, Nabeul became centred around the ksar meant to symbolize Nabeul’s
(fortified granary). Today, this is the town’s oldest district. pottery traditions.
Ceramic bric-a-brac, such as
ashtrays, small jars and plates,
can be bought fairly cheaply.
Even larger plates or a beauti-
fully decorated dish cost just a
few dinars.
Although Nabeul is famous
mainly for its pottery, it has also
developed other forms of craft,
including embroidery, wicker-
work (straw mats) and stone
carving. Nabeul embroidery is
white or light blue and uses
cotton or silk yarns. At one time
Shops along Rue el-Arbi Zarouk, the site of the market it was used only on women’s
clothes but now it can also be
Exploring Nabeul P Market found decorating tablecloths
Most people visit Nabeul on Rue el-Arbi Zarouk. Open 6–10am Fri. and linen napkins.
Friday and come for the weekly The market is held every Friday
market. Virtually anything can and attracts huge numbers of
be bought here, from colourful visitors. Originally it was a camel
spices, bowls and spoons to market, but the only camels
music cassettes and cotton generally on sale these days are
shawls. Nabeul’s large medina, stuffed toys. During the peak
with its complex network of season, however, there is the
narrow streets, gates and alley- opportunity of paying for a
ways, is well worth exploring. camel ride. The thousands of
Walking along avenues Habib day-trippers who visit here each
Thameur, Farhat Hached or week can be overwhelming and
Hedi Chaker takes the visitor stallholders have no need to Courtyard of a pottery shop in Avenue
past scores of shops and lower their prices. Little is to Habib Thameur
ceramic workshops selling be gained from haggling.
vibrant crockery, tiles, lamps, Avenue Habib Bourguiba
candlesticks, goblets and U Great Mosque Avenue Bourguiba, lined with
couscous dishes. Rue de L’Orient and Rue Habib Karma. palm trees and oleanders, is the
Closed to non-Muslims. town’s swankiest street. It starts
Nabeul’s mosque, hidden by at the town centre and runs
the souk’s arcades, is a typical towards the sea, reaching the
example of sacral Islamic local beaches. It is over 2 km
architecture. Its layout includes (1 mile) long and the station and
a courtyard and a large prayer the archaeology museum are
hall decorated with some situated along it. Its northern
magnificent ceramic tiles and section is full of shops. Head
crystal chandeliers. Its green- south to take a look at the
white minaret is reminiscent beautiful villas belonging to the
of the mosque in Kairouan. wealthy citizens of Nabeul.
Avenue Habib Thameur E Archaeology Museum

Avenue Habib Thameur, whose Av. Habib Bourguiba 44. Tel (72) 285
continuation is Avenue Farhat 509. Open Apr–mid-Sep: 9am–1pm &
Decorative panel on the façade of Hached, runs in the direction 4–7pm Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–Mar:
the Great Mosque of the souk and the market. 9:30am–4pm. &

NABEUL 117
Several well-lit rooms in zone, close to the Hotel VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

this small but interesting Neapolis and opposite
museum house items Pension Monia Club. Not Practical Information
unearthed during much is left of the Roman Road map D2. * 60,000.
archaeological town whose ruins were n ONTT: Avenue Habib
excavations, including discovered accidentally Bourguiba, (23) 557 159.
Carthaginian when building the _ Orange Blossom Festival
sculptures and Roman Hotel Neapolis, and (Mar/Apr); Summer Festival (Jul/
Aug). ∑ nabeul.net
mosaics. The first room, its large, fenced-off
immediately by the grounds are overgrown
entrance, includes the with grass and olive trees.
plan of Roman Neapolis Nabeul was once a part wealth of the urban upper and
(see below) and a map of of the senate province of middle classes, as well as of the
Cap Bon, showing the Proconsular Africa. It was native population. One of these
major archaeological governed by the proconsul towns was Nabeul.
sites. To the left of the residing in Carthage. The Increasing wealth was
entrance, in Room 1, reign of Caesar accompanied by the growing
are displays of Punic Statue from the Augustus marked a influence of Roman culture.
objects (7th–4th Archaeology Museum period of stability, Not much has survived from
centuries BC) including when colonies began ancient Nabeul, which the
oil lamps, jewellery and coins, to grow and new towns Romans called Neapolis, and all
mainly from the excavations in intended for Roman war veterans that can be seen is a handful of
Kerkouane. Here you will also were established. Caesar ensured scattered stones and the
find vessels from Kelibia. favourable conditions for trade, remains of a wall that probably
Along the corridor there are which resulted in the growing once surrounded a palace.
further displays of Punic and
Roman objects, including clay
statuettes of Baal Hammon
and the Carthaginian goddess
Tanit. The remaining rooms
house a large collection of
Roman mosaics excavated
from Kelibia (1st–3rd century
AD) and Roman Neapolis
(4th century).
T Neapolis
Open 1–5pm Tue–Sun.
This ancient site stands in the
town suburbs, within the tourist Excavation site in Neapolis
Nabeul
Market
RU
1 Market
E
Bus & Louage

U
DE
2 Great Mosque Station RR

ZA
FR
BI
AN
3 Avenue Habib Thameur AR

EL
CE
Great E
4 Avenue Habib Bourguiba Mosque RU KELIBIA
TUNIS
5 Archaeology Museum
AV D A V.
EN HA
AV
BIB
HE
U EL
.
H AC
E KA
D
RM
E
A
LA
O
H
A
A
RÉ
H
LH
R
BI
PU
FA
RU
ER B
E
V.
B
AK
BL
E
A CH LI
BO
SI
IQ
DI
D
A
U
HE
I
U
E
M
UE E
RG
A
EN U
AO
AV
EN
U
R
EU
U
V
IB
IA
A
RU
M
A
0 metres A
E
250 TH
M
B
AR
BI
A
BE
0 yards 250 H
AV
LL
.
AV
.T
A
AI
X
EB
S FA
Bus & Louage Train

M
Station
DE
BIA
Station
EH
E Archaeology
IR
RUE
HR
I
RU
G Museum
RU
MA
ED
E
A
DE
ES
EID
L’E
PA
E D
E J
SP
R
M
OU
OI
Beach
RU
ER
AF
R
Neapolis NZ
AI
A
ES
EZ
HAMMAMET RU
Nabeul Pottery
Tunisian pottery goes back to the Neolithic period
when large jugs and vases were used for storage. Abstract designs –
arabesque and geometric
In the early years of the Muslim era, during the Aghlabid patterns – first appeared
dynasty (649–909), a new technique known as during the Hafsid
“mirror” dyeing was introduced, involving the use of dynasty (1233–1574).
metallic dyes. The periods of the Fatimids and Zirids At that time, the
popular colours
(10th and 11th centuries) mark a revolution in the were cobalt blue
decorative arts of this region when figurative images and brown. These
began to appear on vases and mosaics. During this designs have survived
period, Tunisian ceramics were in high demand and though the range of
colours has increased.
were exported to Andalusia and Sicily.
Turkish Influences are

in evidence from the
16th century onwards.
The Ottoman Turks
introduced polychromatic
(many coloured)
designs, with flowers
being a frequently
used motif. These
techniques produced
brightly coloured
designs on bowls,
jugs, tiles, vases and all
kinds of other vessels.
Pottery Workshop
Workshops that produce ceramics are
generally small. They employ a handful
of people, often members of one family.
Separate rooms are used for moulding,
firing and decorating the items. Visiting
tourists are generally invited to see the
final stages of the process when artists
decorate the bowls and jugs.
Ceramic Decoration
The centre of Tunisian ceramics
was once Guellala, on the island of
Djerba. Its local craftsmen arrived
at Nabeul in the 15th century,
possibly attracted by the quality
of the local clay. The Guellala
potters often use Berber motifs
and favour brown and beige
colours. Nabeul craftsmen prefer
floral designs. Each item is hand-
decorated by an artist. Nabeul pottery uses a
lively mix of colours but is
Craftsman decorating a bowl predominantly in strong
blues and greens.
NABEUL 119
Andalusian, Turkish and

Italian influences are
evident in 17th-century
ceramics. Today, traditional
green and yellow decorated
objects, with brown motifs, are Artistic pottery products are
becoming increasingly rare. decorated with arabesques or
geometric patterns combined
with images of fish, birds, cypress
trees and stylized flowers.
Children learn
the craft from
an early age.
The quality
of all finished
vessels is
carefully
checked.
Ceramic tiles are

decorated with motifs that
All pots are together form large multi-
moulded on a coloured compositions.
potter’s wheel.
Jugs – long and pointed – were produced

Ceramics shops can be found in every street of town. during the Phoenician era. Roman times saw
Their courtyards display all possible forms of ceramics, the introduction of red ceramics decorated
and their small workshops are tucked away at the back. with mythological and floral motifs.
y Hammamet often form vivid mosaics. Visitors

can also stop for a cup of
Hammamet lies on the coast, halfway between Tunis and aromatic tea in the charming
Sousse, and has some of the best beaches in Tunisia. In the café next to it.
2nd century, the Romans established a settlement called
P Medina
Pupput, close to the present town, which was later inhabited
Through the main gate – Bab
by the Normans. It was only in the 1920s, however, that the el-Souk – is the entrance to the
place was really put on the map when the Romanian medina. It is surrounded by
millionaire George Sebastian built a villa here. Where he led high walls, erected in AD 904,
others soon followed and today Hammamet attracts over half and was rebuilt in the 13th
a million visitors a year. century during the period of
the Hafsid dynasty.
Immediately past the gate
Exploring Hammamet there are souvenir vendors
The most pleasant time of the with colourful stalls and small
day in Hammamet is the late shops full of rugs, lovely
afternoon, when the streets and Oriental mirrors and old (or
cafés fill with people emerging imitation) jewellery. In the
after their afternoon siesta, and first street to the left (counting
the sun casts a warm glow on from the gate) are the Turkish
the walls of houses. The compact baths (open to men in the
medina, built by the Hafsids, is morning, and to women in
well worth exploring and the afternoon).
includes ancient bathhouses There is little need for a
and shops hidden away in detailed map when wandering
the narrow alleys. The Great around Hammamet’s medina,
Mosque and the kasbah are and it is easy to get into the
strategically located by the rhythm of its narrow streets
medina’s main entrance. and the unique patchwork of
At sunset, head for the café Narrow streets of the medina, providing alleyways. As you walk around,
situated by the kasbah at the shelter from the sun there is a pleasant variety of
entrance to the medina. This details to take in – a door-
delightful spot is a pleasant + Kasbah knocker in the shape of the
place to savour a cup of mint Open Apr–Oct: 8am–1pm & 3–7pm. hand of Fatima, for example, or
tea or coffee and watch the Outside high season: 8:30am–5:30pm. a flower-pot set against the
world go by. Built in the 15th century, the white wall of a house. Visitors
The main streets of the kasbah (Arab fort) stands next can step into Dar Hammamet
modern section of town are to the main gate leading to the in order to see a traditional
Avenue Bourguiba and medina. It is approached by Tunisian house with a
Avenue de la République, where high stairs; its upper terrace collection of costumes which
most shops, banks, and some provides a magnificent view have been gathered together
good restaurants, are situated. of the glistening sea and the from all over Tunisia.
At their junction stands the roofs of the old town houses
Centre Commercial, which on which drying peppers, peas, E Dar Hammamet
was opened in 1979. sesame seeds and couscous Rue Sidi Abdallah. Tel (72) 281 206.
Open 9am–1pm, 2–5pm daily. &
U Great Mosque
Closed to non-Muslims.
The Great Mosque, which
stands in the medina, was
built in 1236 by Abu Am
Othmar. Since then the
mosque has been remodelled
and has undergone two
major renovations: one in
1727 was undertaken by
Hussein Bey, the second in
1978–79 was overseen by the
town authorities. The nearby
Sidi Abdel Kader mosque was
built in 1798; it now houses the
View from the kasbah walls over the medina and the sea School of Koranic Studies.
The ruins of a Roman villa in Carthage
HAMMAMET 123
Road map D2. * 12,000.
n Av. de la République,
(72) 281 206. _ International
Music Festival (Aug).
( Thu.
Transport
@£
lively, with small bars and street

vendors; and it is closer to
A palm-shaded promenade on Avenue Habib Bourguiba town. Yasmine Hammamet
maintains a higher standard,
Avenue Habib Bourguiba people around this time of the with most hotels having four or
The main thoroughfare of day are the jasmine sellers. Men five stars. It also has the largest
Hammamet, Avenue Habib place the small fragrant posies Tunisian marina. Tourist zones
Bourguiba is full of shops, behind their ears; women hold allow visitors to behave in a
narrow passageways and tourist them in their hands, turning more relaxed way than would
restaurants. The adjacent central them around. be appropriate in the town.
square is the site of the fish and
vegetable market, held every Beaches
morning. This is also the centre Hammamet has two main
of Hammamet’s nightlife, with tourist zones. The older, in the
clubs and restaurants open until north, is located between
the small hours. In order to see Hammamet and Nabeul; the
how the Tunisians spend their newer, in the south has been
free time, take a seat for a while named Yasmine Hammamet
during the late afternoon in one and lies 8–10 km (5–6 miles)
of the local teahouses, in the from the town centre.
area where Avenue Habib Thoroughly geared up for
Bourguiba reaches the walls of visitors, these zones have
the medina. The end of siesta excellent beaches, clean water
marks a time for coffee and and mounted police patrols.
chichas (hookahs) or for The northern zone offers a
contemplating life over a cup of wider range of hotels and Fishing boats on one of
strong mint tea. The busiest restaurants. It is also more Hammamet’s beaches
Hammamet Centre
1 Kasbah
2 Medina
3 Great Mosque
4 Avenue Habib Bourguiba GROMBALIA,
BIR BOU REGBA
5 Beaches
A V.
Hammamet
Train Station
OW E IT
International DU K
A V. D E S N A T I O N S U N I E S A V.
HABIB
Cultural Centre
UE HEDI OUA
AV E N L I NABEUL
D ES
LS
RU IO N
AT
TE
RU O
E
ER
E
m e t P l a ge
B O URGUIB
H Hamma DE
LA AV. D E L A L I B
C
O
UE
Yasmine Hammamet, R
IQ
N
Pupput C
I
HE
UBL
A
Gulf of R AT
REP
FOU
EL
Hammamet IBN
LA
A D
SS
DE
Centre Bus A rd
Commercial terminal t No
me
V.
A
. m ma
AV Ha
Kasbah Great
Mosque
0 metres 750
750 Medina
0 yards

by the architect Frank Lloyd Grombalia is one of Tunisia’s

Wright as the most beautiful wine-producing regions and
house he had ever seen. The vines have been cultivated
ground floor is occupied by here since Punic times. In order
a gallery, and the house is to protect the plants from the
surrounded by a beautiful park. heat, the vineyards were laid
Visitors can stop and rest in one out facing north, the vines
of its delightful nooks or sit in were planted in trenches and
the waterside café, although their roots were covered with
it is open only in the summer. stones to provide protection
The centre hosts an Arab Music from rain and the summer
Festival during July and August heat. The Phoenicians were
in the park’s amphitheatre. The believed to have produced
concerts, including both excellent wines. The Romans
classical and modern popular upheld these traditions, but
Arab music, are great fun. with the arrival of Muslim
civilization, wine production
Environs declined. Grapes continued to
The former villa of George Sebastian Pupput is situated 6 km be cultivated, but on a much
(4 miles) south of Hammamet, smaller scale. This is largely
Further Afield on the road to Sousse. In the because the drinking of
Beaches that are further from 2nd century AD this was a small alcohol was not encouraged
the town centre, as well as Roman settlement. During by the Prophet. This rule
those located in parts of the Byzantine era, the site was strictly adhered to
Yasmine Hammamet, are all was occupied by a in the early days of Islam,
within easy reach by taxi. fortress. Although little but Imam ibn Hanifa and
A walk to the International remains of the town’s the Hanefite school of
Cultural Centre, which hosts former glory, it is still law allowed their
performances in the summer, worth coming here to followers to drink
takes about 20 minutes. Also see the 4th-century certain types of
worth exploring, particularly mosaics from wine. Wine-drinking
on market days, are the Christian tombs. was widespread
villages around Nabeul. Grombalia, 30 km towards the end of the
(19 miles) north of Ummayad dynasty. In
E International Cultural Hammamet, comes some branches of Sufism,
Centre alive on market wine has come to
Avenue des Nations Unies. Tel (72) days, although to symbolize the
280 410. Open 8am–6pm daily experience a truly Monument to wine- Absolute, with wine-
(Oct–Jan: to 5pm). festive atmosphere making, in Grombalia induced intoxication
The International Cultural it is best to visit the regarded as a state
Centre is housed in the villa town in September, during the of mystic ecstasy in which the
that once belonged to George wine festival that coincides with Sufi draws closer to God.
Sebastian, which was praised the all-important harvest. Bir Bou Regba, a small
town close to Nabeul, is fairly
quiet but gets busier on market
George Sebastian days. Visitors usually head for
In the early 20th century, Hammamet became the dried-out riverbed of
the favourite haunt of artists, aristocrats and Faoura. The target of their
politicians, including Winston Churchill, who trips is the small waterfall
worked on his memoirs here. This is largely (also sometimes dry) a short
due to George Sebastian, a Romanian distance up the course of the
millionaire who liked it so much that he river. Water flowing from the
decided to make it his home. He built a spring runs over the stones
magnificent villa (now the that are believed to be the
International Cultural Centre) set in a remains of a Roman aqueduct.
beautiful park. George Sebastian One of the ravines in the valley
used it to entertain many writers and used to contain a sanctuary
artists, including Paul Klee and André devoted to the Punic god Baal
Bust of Sebastian Gide. Word spread and he was soon Hammon and the goddess
joined by other foreigners who took Tanit (see p114).
up residence. The town also lured the American couple John and
Violet Henson and their house became a meeting place for the T Pupput
artistic elite from all over the world. Open Apr–Sep: 8am–1pm & 3–7pm
daily. Oct–Mar: 8:30am–5:30pm.

HAMMAMET 125
Tunisian Doors
In Tunisia, doors are regarded as symbols reflecting the fortune and happiness of
the households within. They are therefore solidly built of palm wood, reinforced with
sheet metal and often set within richly decorated portals. They are usually painted
blue, though they can be brown or yellow. Only the doors leading to public baths or
marabout mausoleums are painted in green or red.
Under the Hafsids (13th–16th century) Tunisian doors were almost entirely devoid
of decoration. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the Moorish style introduced geometric
patterns, which under Turkish rule were supplemented with stylized plants and flowers.
In the 19th century, European fashion influenced the colouring and the decorative
motifs of Tunisian doors.
Ornament and
opulence are the
hallmarks of this sturdy
18th-century door. It is
studded with nails that
form complicated
designs. Frequently
used motifs include
stars, plants, flowers
and crescents. The side
posts are decorated
with spiral columns
supporting a typically
Islamic horseshoe arch.
Door-knockers are
present on every door.
They are often in the
An Italian influence is clear in the shape of a large circle
semicircular wrought-iron grille in or a hand. The ones on
the top section of this door. The the left are usually used
light-blue colouring is inspired by women, the ones
by European fashion and on the right by men.
appeared in the 20th century.
European influence led

to hearts and stylized
flowers on rectangular Motifs most frequently seen
tiles replacing doorway on Tunisian doors include
decorations produced the crescent, star, minaret
with studs and nails. and stylized palm leaves.
NORTHERN TUNISIA
For many years northern Tunisia was little appreciated by visitors
who preferred other parts of the country such as the east coast of
Cap Bon and the resorts around Tunis. This situation is gradually
changing and the mild Mediterranean climate, rugged coast,
magnificent beaches and Roman sites such as Bulla Regia are
attracting visitors in increasing numbers.
The indigenous population of the immigrants who arrived from Andalusia

northern regions of Tunisia were the in the 17th and 18th centuries. Besides
Berbers, but it was the Phoenicians cereals and vegetables they began to
who established the earliest settlements grow almonds, figs, citrus fruit and
here – including present-day Utique, grapes. The vineyards of Raf Raf and Béja
Bizerte and Tabarka. They were attracted produce fine Coteaux D’Utique wines.
by the fertile soil of the region and its Bizerte and Tabarka – northern Tunisia’s
calm bays, in which they could safely largest towns – have long-established
anchor their ships. maritime traditions dating back to
Following the downfall of Carthage, Phoenician times. Both were once major
Rome took over the former Punic ports, pirate strongholds and naval bases.
settlements, turning them into fast- Today their economies are based on
growing military colonies. Towns such industry and on a steadily growing tourist
as Béja, Bulla Regia, Utique and Bizerte trade, with numerous resorts and hotels
owe their prosperity to grain and trade. springing up. Bizerte, still a major port,
The fertile soil of the Medjerda Valley was is nicknamed the “Venice of the North”.
the granary of Phoenicia and Rome, and It has a lovely old harbour and a charming
it remains agriculturally important today. medina, while at Tabarka there is a coral
The region owes much to the Arab reef and a first-class golf course.
Rolling hills around Testour

The Genoese fort on the hill overlooking Tabarka
Exploring Northern Tunisia

The northern section of Tunisia is not as popular as the
coast of Sahel and Djerba, yet the region has a great deal
to offer. Those who enjoy hiking or hunting should head
for the Khroumirie Mountains where there are many trails
leading through wooded hills. The beaches around
Tabarka, Bizerte and Raf Raf are perfect for swimming
and relaxing while Lake Ichkeul, used as winter
quarters by many thousands of migrating birds, is an
ornithologist’s paradise. Bulla Regia, to the south, has
unique underground villas and is one of the most La Galite
archaeologically important Roman towns in the world.
A ceramic statuette
from Sejnane
0 kilometres 15
CAP SERRAT
0 miles 15
Sidi Mechrig
Les Aiguilles by the Tabarka beach

Cap Negro
SEJNANE
Sights at a Glance
1 Tabarka
3 Khroumirie Mountains
4 Chimtou Ras Nefza
Rajel
5 Bulla Regia pp136–7 TABARKA
Aïn
6 Béja Ouchtata
7 Testour El Kala
8 Sejnane
S
9 Cap Serrat IN
N TA
0 Ichkeul National Park pp140–41 OU
Babouche M
q Menzel Bourguiba
E
RI
Aïn Draham
w Bizerte I
Hammam M
e Cap Blanc Bourguiba U
r Utique Beni RO BÉJA
H
AROU
Metir K
Tours
2 Around Tabarka Fernana
ND
Bou
pp132–3
JENDOUBA Salem
Oued Me d j
e rd a
TA
BULLA REGIA
BA
RK
Aïn Soltane
A
CHIMTOU Thibar
Jendouba
Ghardimaou
Souk Ahras
Le Kef
Le Kef

NORTHERN TUNISIA 129
Getting There
The main airport for the northern
coast is Tunis. Two roads link the
capital with Tabarka: the northern
P7 and the southern P6 from which
drivers must turn north onto the
P17. Bizerte can be reached by the
A1 motorway or P8 highway. The
scenery around Béja, Téboursouk
and Testour is remarkable, although
the roads are narrow. Access to the
coast in places other than Tabarka
and Bizerte is difficult. An underground villa in Bulla Regia
Ras ben Sekka

CAP BLANC
Nador
BIZERTE
Teskraia
Ras Jebel Raf Raf
Lake Bizerte
MENZEL El Alia Sidi

Sejnane ICHKEUL BOURGUIBA el-Mekki
Oued
NATIONAL PARK Aousja
Ghesala
Mateur
UTIQUE
B I Z E R T E Othman
Ou Key
ed
Jo umine Tunis Motorway
Major road
Tahent
Other road
ne
Ti Scenic road
d
e
Tebourba
Ou
Railway
International border
Regional border
Salt lake
Mencher
Oued
Zarga Tunis
Medjez el-Bab
Barrage
Sidi Salem
B É J A
TESTOUR
Trayfa
The northern shores of Lake Ichkeul

Coral
Coral, brought up by divers
and fishermen from the
seabed, has been in high
demand throughout North
Africa for many years. Since
the 15th century, when the
Europeans discovered its
beauty, coral jewellery has
fetched a high price. Tabarka is
a centre for jewellery made
from coral and shops sell
necklaces, pins and brooches
with coral inserts. It has long
been used as a talisman: red
coral is believed to bestow
vitality, pink coral is conducive
to pleasant thoughts, while
white coral clears the mind.
Coral is an endangered
species, so some visitors
choose not to buy it.
Fishing boats, with Tabarka’s Genoese fort in the background
red-tiled roofs of the Genoese

1 Tabarka fort can be seen from almost
Road map B1. * 13,700. n ONTT: any point in town but the best
Commissariat regional au tourisme, view is from the jetty. The
Blvd. 7 Novembre 32, (78) 673 028. beautifully located hotel
_ International Jazz Festival (late
Les Mimosas also affords a
Jun–Jul). magnificent panoramic view
of the town, the gulf and the
Tabarka is just 22 km (14 miles) surrounding area. A little
from the Algerian border and is further west from the harbour Coral and shell necklaces for sale at
one of the greenest towns in stands an ochre-coloured Tabarka’s market
Tunisia. Its picturesque setting rock formation – Les Aiguilles
includes beaches to the north (The Needles), sharpened by
and gentle hills overgrown with the constant erosion of wind are suitable for beginners as
cork oak, pine and mimosa to and rain. well as more experienced
the south. Tabarka has quiet beaches divers. About 60 km (37 miles)
The town stands on the site and a number of golf courses. north of Tabarka is the Galite
of a former Phoenician colony, It also has some of Tunisia’s archipelago, which can also
Thabraca. During Roman times best diving. Local diving clubs be reached by boat from
Tabarka was an important regularly organize diving Tabarka. Details of diving
port used for shipping grain excursions to various sites excursions can be obtained
from Béja and marble from along the coral reef just off from any of Tabarka’s diving
Chimtou to Rome. As well as its the coast. There are trips which clubs (see p299).
forests full of game, Tabarka’s
greatest asset was its coral
reef. In the 16th century the
exclusive rights to coral fishing
were granted to the Genoese
who built an offshore fort close
by. With the advent of the
French Protectorate, in 1881,
coral rights were taken up by
the French and Tabarka and
Le Kef were two of the first
towns to be occupied.
Tabarka is quite small. It
centres round two streets
running parallel to the coast,
where most of its restaurants
and cafés can be found. The Les Aiguilles (The Needles) as seen from Tabarka’s beach
Coral Reef
Tabarka’s coral reef is close to the shore. Just 10 minutes away by boat is a rock surrounded
by black and red corals. A little further on is a magnificent complex of tunnels, grottoes,
underwater caves and caverns. Warm waters mean that the reef teems with life. Flitting
between coral branches are colourful marine fish and luminescent jellyfish. Other
marine occupants include sponges, sea urchins, sea cucumbers and sea squirts. Deeper
waters are inhabited by halibut, moray eel and wrasse. Diving for coral is popular along
the entire northern shore of Tunisia, but the most beautiful specimens come from the
waters around Tabarka. Its popularity means that coral is an endangered species.
Rainbow wrasse is
a colourful fish
belonging to the
perch family. Only
active during the
day, it buries itself
in the sand at night.
Swallowtail sea perch is a small

predatory fish that lives in large shoals.
Its bright colouring makes it highly
conspicuous. It can be seen grazing
near entrances to underwater caves in
which it seeks shelter when threatened.
Fish graze near

the bottom of the
sea, searching for
food in rock
crevices and among
the coral where
they can hide.
They often assume
the colour of the The dusky grouper is a very large, slow-swimming
reef, which makes fish. It can sometimes be curious about divers and
them invisible therefore presents an easy target for spearfishing.
to predators. Reefs provide it with plenty of hiding places,
although it does not have many natural enemies
other than mankind.
Wrasse
favour rocky
coastal waters and reefs. Here
they find the small fish, as well as snails,
mussels, crabs and other invertebrates
that make up their staple diet.
Red coral knolls grow on the rocky bottom of the

Mediterranean Sea. As well as being collected with
nets, coral is also cut using a special device consisting
of heavy, metal-reinforced beams. These are set in the
shape of a cross, weighted with a stone in the centre and
have loosely weighted nets at the corners. The cross is
pressed into crevasses and the nets wind themselves
around the coral, breaking it off the bedrock.
El-Kala
2 Around Tabarka
Rising immediately behind the town are the steep slopes of
the Khroumirie Mountains. These are densely forested and
are a marvellous region for exploring. The deep ravines
and numerous springs and streams provide welcome
cool in the summer heat. Villages such as Hammam
Bourguiba and Aïn Draham are long-established
resorts and make good starting points for hikes.
The cool climate and wonderful scenery make
this area popular with Tunisians.
1 Hammam Bourguiba
The village lies in a
valley surrounded by
hills dense with cork oak
and pine. The excellent
climate combined
with hot springs has
made it popular with
elderly Tunisians,
including (at one time)
President Bourguiba.
6 Bulla Regia
These Roman ruins include
4 Beni Metir
baths, a temple complex
Beni Metir was built in 1956 to house and theatre, as well as
French builders. It is close to a lake and villas that were built under-
surrounded by a forest of oak and myrtle. ground to escape the heat.
7 Chimtou
These local quarries used to provide
Rome with marble. On top of the hill
the Numidians erected an altar to Baal.
The Romans used this to worship
Saturn. For the Muslims
it became a centre
for marabouts
(Islamic Oued Medjerda
holy men).
9 Ghardimaou
This quiet village lies almost
on the border with Algeria.
It is worth visiting mainly
J
for its beautiful mountain

scenery as part of a tour Souk-Ahras
that also takes in Chimtou.

Tabarka
2 Babouche
The road to Babouche
Tips for Drivers
runs steeply upwards. The Tour length: About 90 km
village is 5 km (3 miles) (56 miles).
from Aïn Draham at the Stopping-off points: Jendouba,
entrance to a gorge. From Aïn Draham and Hammam
here the road leads to a Bourguiba have accommodation.
deer park. This is a good There are plenty of restaurants.
starting point for hikes Other attractions: The road that
through the forest. runs between Bou Salem and
Téboursouk is particularly scenic.
3 Aïn Draham
Perched on the western
side of Jebel Bir
(1,014 m/3327 ft), Aïn
Draham was popular
with the French. Aïn
Bou Salem Draham’s steep red-
tiled roofs help cope
with the winter snow
and lend the town an
Alpine atmosphere.
a 5 Fernana
al Around Fernana the mountainous
z
he
O .G landscape gives way to

a plain. Every Sunday
the village holds a
market selling
fruit, vegetables
and livestock.
According to legend
it was here that the
Khroumirie chiefs came to
Bou Salem ask a thousand-year-old oak tree
how much tax they should pay to
the bey of Tunis. The tree would
rustle its leaves in response.
Key
Suggested route
Other road
Béja Unmetalled road
Scenic route
8 Jendouba
The provincial capital,
surrounded by fields, is
halfway between Tabarka
and Le Kef. In the eve-
nings the men sit down
to a cup of tea and a
chicha (hookah) in one
of the small restaurants
along the main road
0 km 3 from Tabarka to Le Kef.
0 miles 3
Kairouan It is a good base to visit the
ruins at Bulla Regia.

who worked in the quarries. The

quarries remained active until
Byzantine times, but were
abandoned after the arrival of
the Arabs (7th century). The site
was first excavated in 1968 and
many of the finds from this dig
can be found in the excellent
site museum, which was
opened in 1990. Among the
displays are a detailed
explanation of the excavation,
a working model of an ancient
flour mill and over 1,600 gold
coins that were discovered when
the museum was being built.
One surprise of the excavation
work was the discovery of a
Hilltop field and olive trees, flanked by the Khroumirie Mountains Numidian temple to Baal
Hammon at the top of the
3Khroumirie killed in 1891; all hunters have hill. Dating from the 2nd
been left with is wild boar. century BC, the find suggests
Mountains In summer, the forests are that the Numidians had a more
Road map B2. popular with mountain hikers. sophisticated culture than
Although holly, eucalyptus, historians had once believed.
The Khroumirie Mountains mimosa, elm, birch and willow The quarries are located
begin to rise just a few miles all grow here, the most opposite the museum. The
outside Tabarka and stretch abundant tree is the cork oak, huge holes dug into the rock
some 50 km (31 miles) south which has been grown for its attest to the amount of sheer
to Fernana, reaching a height bark by the villagers of the effort and human endurance
of about 1,000 m (3,281 ft). Khroumirie for thousands of that went into working them.
They owe their name to the years. Used to make anything Further on up the hill are the
Khroumirie tribes who were from tiles to wine corks, the ruins of a temple. Originally a
renowned for their bravery: red-stained trunks of Numidian site, it was converted
when French troops invaded in freshly stripped trees can be into a temple dedicated to
1881, it was the Khroumirie who seen everywhere. Saturn by the Romans.
put up the fiercest resistance. Particularly interesting among
The forests were once the Chimtou’s other relics are the
favourite hunting grounds of 4 Chimtou rock carvings found on the
local tribes, as well as visiting Road map B2. 27 km (17 miles) north western and northern sides
Europeans. The last lion was of Jendouba. Museum: Tel (78) 602 of the hill.
143. Open 9am–6:30pm daily (Oct–
Mar: to 5pm). Closed religious
holidays. & ∑ chimtou.com
Not much has survived in

Chimtou from the former
Roman colony of Simithas,
which was established in the
1st century BC. Chimtou owed
its existence to the quarries
which provided a dark-yellow
marble that was highly prized
by the Romans. Blocks of
marble were marked with
the name of the emperor and
were transported on carts to
Tabarka across the mountains.
The site included workers’
homes, baths, a theatre and a The ancient quarries at Chimtou
workshop. Aerial photographs
taken in the late 1960s revealed
Trunk of a stripped cork oak, an important a large labour camp. It was built
5 Bulla Regia
resource of the Khroumirie Mountains in AD 154 and housed the slaves See pp136–7.

6 Béja now faced the streets and

Road map B2. * 70,000. mosques acquired their
distinctive arches. Testour’s
The road from Tabarka to Béja main square is one of the
(which in ancient times was earliest products of the
called Vaga) runs amid gently 17th-century Spanish influence.
rolling hills covered with euca- It contains several cafés, the
lyptus, stonepine and oleander. Great Mosque and the
The town – the capital of the hammam and is planted with
province – is 250 m (820 ft) numerous orange trees and
above sea level, and lies in the jasmine shrubs. Leading to the
valley of the Medjerda River. square is the town’s main street
Béja is an important grain town – Avenue Habib Bourguiba.
and a weekly market has been Testour used to have 14
held here since Roman times. A medersa’s green-tiled dome in the mosques, five of which remain
The town was attacked and Andalusian Muslim town of Testour open to this day. The main
destroyed by the Vandals in one – the Great Mosque
the 5th century, only to be 7 Testour (17th century) is open only to
rebuilt by Emperor Justinian Road map C2. * 8,000. Muslims and is a good example
who named it Theodoriana, in _ Malouf Music Festival (Jun). of Tunisian Moorish architecture.
honour of his wife. The ruins of The square base of the tiled
the Byzantine kasbah that Testour is one of Tunisia’s minaret is crowned with two
dominate the old town date Andalusian Muslim towns. octagonal towers, one built into
from that period. In the 17th century, 80,000 the other, and is reminiscent of
The most charming part of Arabs who were expelled from a Castilian bell tower. The most
modern-day Béja is its small Andalusia after the Christian striking evidence of Andulasian
medina. It is a busy and atmos- reconquest arrived in Tunisia. influence is the clock on the
pheric place and the many The wealthier refugees were minaret’s south face. Apart
mosques, zaouias (tombs), allowed to settle in Tunis but from the fact that a clock is not
Islamic schools and public the poorer farmers had to seen on a minaret anywhere
baths are punctuated by make do with the uninhabited else in the world, the other
colourful market stalls. Head regions of the country’s interior. surprising feature is the hours,
for Rue Farhat Hached for a After petitioning the authorities which go backwards, revealing,
fine view from the medina they were granted the right to perhaps, the refugees’ desire to
over the town and the settle on the Roman site of turn back time and return to
surrounding countryside. Tichilla, which became their homeland.
present-day Testour. Nearby, in El-Andalouse
Environs The farming techniques Square, are the ruins of the
Some 13 km (8 miles) south of brought from Andalusia helped first Great Mosque (1610). Rue
Béja stands Trajan’s Bridge. the newcomers turn the barren du Mars, running parallel to
Built in AD 29, it linked Carthage land into fertile oases and their Avenue Bourguiba, contains the
with Bulla Regia (see pp136–7). attachment to Andalusian Abdellatif Mosque, also known
Head north, towards Beni Metir, traditions injected a European as the Hanefite mosque.
8 km (5 miles) beyond Béja, for flavour into the Arab For most of the year, Testour
Henchir el-Fouar. Excavations settlements. Testour’s central is a quiet town but it can get
begun in 1960 unearthed the square became the focal point busy in June during the Festival
ruins of Roman villas, a small of the town layout. Windows of Malouf music.
forum and two basilicas, which
formed the Roman town of
Belalia Major.
It is worth stopping for a
while in Tebourba – a little
town on the banks of the
Medjerda River, set in gardens
and olive groves. Tebourba has a
pleasant medina, laid out on a
regular grid pattern. As well as
a number of market stalls, the
town has a 17th-century Great
Mosque and a handful of
smaller mosques and zaouias.
The oldest of the zaouias is
dedicated to Sidi Thabet and
dates from the 7th century. Green fields dotted with olive trees near Béja
5 Bulla Regia
The important archaelogical site of Bulla Regia is famous for its
underground villas, which were built by the Romans in the 2nd and
3rd centuries AD as a means to escape the fierce heat of the Tunisian
sun. The site also includes a temple, baths,
fort and a market square, but it is the houses
which are the main attraction. Each of the
villas has been named after the mosaics that
were found within them. Some of these
beautiful mosaics are still in situ, while
others have been moved to museums
such as the Bardo in Tunis (see pp92–3).
. House of Amphitrite
The house, found at the
north end of the cluster
of underground villas, is
famous for its exquisite
mosaics, which are in
the basement.
. House of the Hunt

Of all the surviving underground
houses this one is the most
striking. Its colonnaded basement
courtyard is especially impressive.
Byzantine Church
The church was built
in the 6th century.
Visible among the
fallen columns are
fragments of the floor
mosaics featuring
Christian motifs.
KEY
1 Southern baths
2 Roman cisterns
3 The 6th-century Byzantine fort
lacks any defensive features.
4 Many houses, such as this one,
have yet to be fully explored.
5 New House of the Hunt
6 House of Fishing
7 An ancient spring located here
supplied the town with water.
8 Temple of Apollo, where statues
were found; these are now kept in
the Bardo Museum, in Tunis.
9 Market

Road map B2. 9 km (6 miles)
south of Jendouba.
n ONTT: Tabarka, (78) 671 491.
0 metres 50 Open 8am–5pm daily. &
0 yards 50 Transport
@ from Jendouba, then a 3-km
(2-mile) walk. Organized
trips available.
Forum
The forum was the
heart of the town and
was the site of the
most important public
buildings and temples,
as well as the venue
for major celebrations.
Memmian Baths
Named after Julia
Memmia, the wife
of an emperor,
these ruins reveal
the sheer scale
of the baths,
which included Amphitheatre
changing rooms, This small theatre was built in the
a gymnasium, and 4th century. It stands at the eastern
the frigidarium. end of the town, close to the forum.
8 Sejnane also purify their skirts and The road between Cap Serrat
Road map B1. * 2,000. dresses with the smoke. and Cap Negro is an
The decorative patterns on exceptionally scenic one. It is
Sejnane – a small village the vessels all have symbolic fringed with laurel, mimosa and
hidden among the hills meanings. The stylized triangles pine trees. Cap Negro (its name
overgrown with laurel, oleander symbolize fertility; the crosses, is associated with the Genoese
and eucalyptus – lies along large and small, are intended settlers) is an old trading post,
the road that links Bizerte for protection and healing. built in the 16th century by the
with Tabarka. Quite A wavy line placed on a French who traded in grain. It is
close to Béja and Cap dish will ensure the abun- now occupied by the National
Serrat, the village is dance of water. Guard. The area is beautiful,
inhabited by Much of the but has virtually no roads
Berber tribes who pottery produced and is best explored on foot.
lead a semi- here is from the The region between Cap
nomadic life. outlying villages Serrat and Tabarka is full of
The air here is and is sold on pine, eucalyptus, mimosa,
suffused with the roadside stalls, many oleander, cork oak and fruit
smell of pine resin of which can be orchards. Sometimes described
and the bread baking found on the road in brochures as “Green Tunisia”,
in outdoor ovens. to Bizerte. it is a long way from the
Sejnane is famous North from typical Tunisian image of
for two things: its Sejnane, across the desert and beaches.
lovely beige pottery wooded hills, are
and its numerous the beautiful Sidi Environs
storks’ nests, which Berber ceramics from Mechrig beach and About 40 km (25 miles) off the
the birds build each Sejnane region Cap Serrat. coast from Cap Serrat is the
spring. The siting of volcanic archipelago of La Galite,
the nests seem fairly which consists of seven volcanic
indiscriminate and they can 9 Cap Serrat islands. It was already known to
be seen on the roofs of local Road map B1.
the Phoenicians, and during
houses, the train station, elec- Roman times it was called
tricity transformers and on some Cap Serrat is situated away from Galathea. The waters around the
abandoned mining apparatus. the busy tourist centres. Its islands are rich in marine life and
The techniques used to steep cliffs drop down to the are a superb place to go diving.
create the pottery made here sea and the views from the top There is no regular transport
date back thousands of years. are truly breathtaking. The between the islands and the
The clay is shaped by hand, remote beach on the eastern mainland, but it is possible to
then decorated. Some of the side of this little peninsula is get here by boat from Tabarka.
decorations are drawn directly long, sandy and, for much of Details can be obtained from
onto the wet clay and the the time, virtually deserted. one of Tabarka’s diving clubs
grooves are filled with a black It is visited mainly by local (see p299). Although remote,
resin from the mastic tree. Tunisians who come here in the islands are inhabited by a
The items are baked on open family groups. A small café handful of families who make
fires in the yards of the houses. next to the beach caters for their living from fishing and
Pots of various shapes and campers during the summer. cultivating grapes.
sizes and animal figurines,
which are painted by hand
by the Berber women using
traditional motifs, are most
common. The typical colours
of the Sejnane products are
beige, rust-red and black.
Originally, such pottery was
intended for domestic use or
as talismans were created to
bring success and happiness.
Sejnane pottery includes
heavy plates, water jugs, deep
platters, animal statuettes and
censers. These are filled with
herbs and aromatic resins, and
the sweet-smelling smoke is
believed to purify the house of
all evil influences. The women Leading a horse to water in Cap Serrat
Tunisian Birds
Tunisia is visited by many migrating birds that fly here from the north for the winter.
The Gulf of Gabès is the winter home of some 350,000 birds – almost half of the bird
population that winter in the Mediterranean region. Here, flamingoes and many varieties
of shorebirds, such as curlew, plover and dunlin, can be seen. Lake Ichkeul is a perfect
habitat for waterfowl and a paradise for ornithologists. About 200,000 ducks, geese and
coots also settle here during the winter. Birdwatchers tend to visit Tunisia in March.
Flamingoes live in colonies, feeding on small water animals

and plants. In Tunisia they can be seen in and around the Lesser black-backed gulls
Gulf of Gabès and also in Ichkeul National Park. are the most commonly
seen bird on the Tunisian
coast. The biggest flocks of
Lanner falcons live in the border these birds can be seen
areas, between the mountains and around the Gulf of Gabès.
the desert. This bird of prey
builds its nest in rock crevices
and hunts in open spaces,
catching birds and small
rodents. Unlike many
other species of
falcon it can also
catch its prey on
the ground.
Boobys are among the largest birds

that can be seen on the Tunisian coast.
They inhabit the steep craggy shores
Common cranes can in the north of the country.
be seen in many parts
of northern Tunisia,
including the salt lake
at Sebkha Kelbia. They
feed on plants and
small animals.
Houbara bustards
inhabit the edges of
the desert, in areas
of low-growing
vegetation where
they can hide.
Although a
protected species,
hunting for bustards
with falcons is a
popular local sport.
0 Ichkeul National Park

This government-protected nature reserve was established
in 1980. Covering 60 sq km (23 sq miles), it is one of the
main wintering grounds for migrating waterfowl in the
entire Mediterranean basin. The shallow, freshwater lake
and its surrounding marshes are a sanctuary to thousands
of waterfowl which nest here during the mild winter (see
p139). Other animals inhabiting the reserve include toads,
terrapins, porcupines, jackals, wild boar and foxes. There
is even a herd of water
buffalo, which is Otter
This predator inhabits low-lying
descended from Asian areas surrounding the lake;
buffaloes brought here it feeds mainly on fish.
in the 19th century.
L a ke
Greylag Goose
Some 10,000 of these birds arrive here each
year. Wintering on the waters of the lake, the
geese can easily find food.
Genet
Genets hate water.
Their hunting
Jeb el
grounds are the Ichk eu l
shrubs that cover
J
the hillsides. They 511 m

hunt for small
birds and rodents
and also feed on
birds’ eggs.
Tabarka
Tunis
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2
Key
Minor road
Jebel Ichkeul
Several sandy footpaths lead through the hills, which are
Other road overgrown with wild olive trees, pistachio and euphorbia shrubs.
Park boundary The best view of the lake is from here.
southwest of Bizerte. Getting
there: The best way is by car.
E Eco-museum: Open 9am–
noon & 12:30–4:30pm daily;
Park: 7am–6pm daily. Other info:
Best to visit from Oct–early Mar.
Water Buffalo
A pair of buffalo was introduced here in the 19th century. Hunters
brought the animal to the verge of extinction in the 1960s. Now it can
be seen on the northern shore of the lake.
Grey Heron
This species can be
seen from the lake-
shore throughout the
Tinja year, although they
are more plentiful
I ch ke ul during the winter.
Kestrel
This small falcon is
one of the few birds of
prey that can be
seen in the park.
Kroldjane
Eco-museum Coastal Marshes

Displays illustrate the natural assets of the region, which The marshes dry out in the summer as
in 1996 was placed on the UNESCO List of World Cultural waters fall below the level of the sea that
and Natural Heritage Sites. feeds the lake.
Fishing boats in Bizerte’s Old Port
q Menzel A modern-day commercial in the works. This land was

Bourguiba port, Bizerte has long had a owned and being developed by
strategic importance. It was the Ben Ali and his family, but, as a
Road map C1. * 30,000. Phoenicians who first settled consequence of the Jasmine
here and dug a channel linking Revolution, all construction
Menzel Bourguiba is a small the lake to the sea, thus work came to a halt. Qatar has
industrial town situated 24 km producing one of the safest since bought the land, and
(15 miles) south of Bizerte. To harbours in the Mediterranean. development has now
get here take a car or louage They named their town resumed. The picturesque old
(shared taxi) which can be Hippo Zarytus. The Romans town and the fishing harbour
hired in front of Bizerte’s destroyed it in 146 BC only run along the canal and the
railway station. The town was to rebuild it again as newer European part of the
established by the French in Hippo Diarrhytus. It was town begins at the point
1897. Originally called Ferryville, subsequently renamed where the canal joins up
it was built on the ruins of a Banzart by the Arabs. with Lake Bizerte.
Spanish fortress, and was Under the French The most attractive
intended for European Protectorate the part of Bizerte is its
immigrants. The French built an town became a Old Port, built on
arsenal and five dry docks here major naval base. the canal that links
that were once the biggest in During World War II the lake with the sea.
Africa. In the early 20th century it was occupied by Here, the quay is
the small town that sprung German troops and lined with quaint
up around the arsenal was suffered considerable cafés where it is
nicknamed “Little Paris”. damage in the pleasant to sit out
Not much remains of the course of Allied and watch the boats
Top of the Great
original provincial town. Since bombardments. The heading out to sea. The
Mosque’s minaret
1963 Menzel Bourguiba has magnificent, almost Old Port is entered
been developing as an important empty beaches and through a huge gate,
centre of the textile and metal scenic dunes stretching along 35 m (115 ft) wide. The
industries. It has a large harbour the Corniche (the road that promenade that starts by the
that links directly with the runs parallel to the coast) have kasbah runs in a gentle arc
Mediterranean through prompted the building of many along the canal. The kasbah and
the Bizerte Canal. Menzel hotels. A modern marina is also the small 11th-century citadel,
Bourguiba’s main street has an
impressive modern mosque.
w Bizerte
northwest of Tunis. * 90,000.
n Next to Bizerte Resort Corniche
(Sidi Salem), (72) 436 966. _ Bizerte
International Festival (17 Jul–17 Aug).
Bizerte, the oldest city in Tunisia,

is the principal town on the
northeast coast of Tunisia and
is situated on the canal that
links Lake Bizerte with the sea. Fishing boats moored in the old harbour at Bizerte
Relaxing by the harbour in the coastal town of Bizerte
If you return to the medina, to

the quayside promenade, it is
worth stopping in Café Le
Pasha. In the evening its terrace
provides a lovely view of the
canal and the colourful lights of
the nearby cafés. Immediately
behind the café, situated
between the souks, the Old
Port and the harbour, is Place
Lahedine Bouchoucha. Here,
a 17th-century mosque
featuring an octagonal minaret
is decorated with an external
gallery. One section of the
square is occupied by a market
selling fish, fruit and vegetables.
The main street that runs
along the quay leads to the
beach, and further on to the
tourist zone.
Head west from the town
centre along Avenue Habib
The kasbah defending the harbour entrance, Bizerte Bourguiba to reach the Military
Academy and, further on, the
standing on the opposite side, magnificent view over the European cemetery with the
once formed parts of the forti- surrounding area, including nearby Martyrs’ Monument
fications that guarded the the Old Port and the modern commemorating victims of the
medina and the harbour. Built harbour. In summer it serves 1961 pitched battle between
by the Arabs on the site of a as a venue for concerts. the French garrison and
Byzantine fortress, the traditional The Great Mosque at the Tunisian forces that included
Byzantine brick arrangement centre of the medina was built many barely trained volunteers.
can be seen to this day. in the 17th century. Its The road leading to the former
The kasbah dates from the octagonal minaret is crowned French part of town and the Ras
17th century. Behind its huge with a balcony that can be seen Jebel peninsula goes over a vast
walls, which are up to 10 m from every point along the drawbridge. Cap Blanc, situated
(33 ft) high in places, is a self- promenade. The mosque is 10 km (6 miles) away, is often
contained town within a town surrounded by a number of taken as the northernmost
which includes atmospheric small zaouias (tombs), but the point of the African continent.
streets and alleys, a mosque, most important of them, the
baths and a number of homes. Zaouia of Sidi Mostari, is
The Fort Sidi el-Hanni tower situated some distance away.
now houses the Oceanography This tomb was built on the
Museum, which has a small orders of Murad Bey, in 1673. It
collection of sea creatures. features an ablutions room, a
Originally, there was only dome-covered sanctuary con-
one gate leading to the medina, taining El-Mostari’s tomb, and
which is now hidden behind a beautiful galleried courtyard.
the façades of the houses that It is worth visiting the
line the banks of the canal. Andalusian quarter where the
Until the 19th century it was Arab refugees from Spain
surrounded by a 6-m-high (20- settled in the 17th century.
ft) wall that was 3.5 m (11 ft) Once situated beyond the
thick. All that remains of it town walls, it had its own
now is the segment between mosque, with a square minaret
the Andalusian district and the topped by a roof of green tiles.
so-called Spanish Fort. The houses here also have a
The Spanish Fort is actually distinctly Spanish character with
Turkish in origin and was light blue doors decorated
built in the 16th century. Little with studs and nails. How-
of its original structure remains, ever, with the passage of time,
though a Muslim cemetery the town wall vanished and the
lies within its defensive walls. Andalusian quarter lost much
The fort’s terrace offers a of its identity. Picturesque houses of the medina, Bizerte
Other objects found here Reminders of the town’s Punic

include amulets, rings, scarabs, heritage include a pottery
painted vessels, lamps and workshop and the necropolis.
numerous amphorae. The baths and two theatres
Not much is known about the date from Roman times as do
early days of Utique’s history. the Treasury Building, the
Scarce information began to House of the Hunt and the
appear in ancient Greek texts House of the Cascades.
but only after the founding The last of these has a
of Carthage. Utique is colonnaded inner
regarded as the second courtyard and was
most important ancient once a villa belonging
town after Carthage in to a wealthy Roman
this region. At its height, citizen. Its other
it had its own harbour features of note include a
and merchant fleet fountain and marble slabs
Craggy coastline around Cap Blanc and fought alongside with mosaics portraying
Carthage against maritime themes. One of
e Cap Blanc Greece and Rome. the loveliest mosaics,
However, in the course depicting a dolphin
north of Bizerte. of the Third Punic War playing with a cherub,
(149–146 BC) it was taken from here
Cap Blanc is often given the switched allegiance, to the Louvre.
title of the northernmost point declaring itself on The House of the
of Africa, though a map reveals the side of Rome. Statue of Hercules in Historic Capitals is
that this claim to fame should Following the the Utique museum a spacious villa built
actually go to Ras ben Sekka destruction of on the site of a Punic
situated just a short distance Carthage it was granted structure. The inner court is
to the west. autonomy in AD 146 and surrounded by colonnades.
The road from Bizerte runs became the capital of the Utique’s museum is also
along Habib Bougatfa, following Province of Africa. It remained worth visiting. It displays some
the coast. Passing the tourist as such until the rebuilding of interesting mosaics, jewellery,
zone and the pebbly beaches, Carthage. The town’s economic funeral accessories and Punic
the road climbs gently upwards. growth reached its zenith in the sarcophagi of children that
The greater the height, the 2nd and 3rd centuries when it were probably sacrificed.
lovelier the views become. Seen derived most of its revenue from
from the beach or the road, Cap trade. Today, Utique no longer E Museum
Blanc appears to be a big green borders the sea as the deposits By the entrance to the town. Open
mountain whose summit has carried by the Medjerda River Apr–mid-Sep: 8am–7pm daily; mid-
been replaced by a sugar-loaf. have clogged up the bay. Sep–Mar: 8:30am–5:30pm daily. &
The mountain drops sharply
towards the sea and the waters
here are much favoured by
divers. The area is quiet and
can be windy. It is possible to
stop for a while in Nador (the
last village before Cap Blanc)
to rest and have a bite to eat
in the Rif Rif restaurant.
r Utique
Road map C1.
Utique is an older sister of

Carthage. It lies 10 km (6 miles)
from the sea, southeast of Bizerte.
The Phoenicians established
Utique as their trading post
perhaps as early as the 10th
century BC. The site’s main
feature is the House of Cascades,
named after the fountains that
once decorated this palace. Ancient ruins in Utique
Northern Tunisia’s Beaches

East of Bizerte is a range of hills covered with olive
groves, vineyards and orchards of almond and
fig trees. In spring the entire area blossoms and
resembles one big, colourful garden. The local
beaches are, for the most part, undeveloped,
empty and incredibly picturesque. The shore
falls steeply into the crystal-clear water. The
most beautiful beaches of the region are to be 1 Ras Jebel
The small farming town of Ras
found in Raf Raf and Sidi Ali el-Mekki. Jebel has its own beach. The water
here is clear, but the currents are
very strong, and the beach has not
been developed. It is popular
as an unofficial campsite.
2 Raf Raf
The coast here is craggy, and the beach
is relatively narrow, but it is a beautiful
setting. The place is ideal for diving. The
village is known for its grapes, which
make an excellent Muscat wine.
Sounine
Pilau Isle 0 km 2
0 miles 2
J
3 Sidi Ali el-Mekki

Sidi Ali el-Mekki is
Lake Ghar el-Melh famous for its lovely
quiet beach and the
tomb of Sidi Ali
el-Mekki. A network
of caves leads to the
tomb hidden deep
in the mountain.
5 Aousja
The best time
to visit this
picturesque village,
situated some 2 km
(1 mile) southwest
4 Ghar el-Melh of Ghar el-Melh, is
This small town, sometimes referred to as in August, during
Porto Farina, has been here since Punic its festival. There is
times. Sites worth visiting include the a local restaurant
fortress of Osta Murad Dey and the old that serves tasty
port. The town lies on the shores of a fish caught by the
lake and is linked to the sea by a canal. village fishermen.

THE SAHEL
Long sandy beaches, sparkling emerald waters, jasmine-
scented nights: these are the images usually associated with
the Sahel. The eastern coast of Tunisia (Sahel is Arabic for
coast) stretches from Nabeul, through Sfax and the Gulf of
Gabès, to Libya. It is here that Tunisia’s most famous resorts
and yacht harbours are found, as well as the historic towns
of Mahdia, Sfax and Sousse.
To the Phoenicians and Romans the Great towns such as Mahdia, the former
Sahel was one of the most important capital of Tunisia, and the Sahel’s ribats
regions, with thriving Roman towns and (fortified Islamic monasteries) are a
colonies including Hadrumetum (Sousse) reminder of the region’s past when it was
and El-Djem, which was one of the under constant threat from piracy and
richest towns in Roman Africa. Such Christian invaders. Monastir’s historic
municipia were able to fund ambitious ribat is particularly interesting as it is not
construction projects including the only the oldest and the best preserved
amphitheatre at El-Djem, which is one in present-day Tunisia, but is also one of
of the most impressive monuments of the few along the entire African coast
Roman civilization in Africa. The citizens that admitted women as teachers and
of El-Djem had their own administration students. Islamic holy men are still held
and possessed civic rights on a par with in great esteem in this part of the country
the citizens of Rome. and the zaouias (tombs) are more than
The wealth of the region was based on mere relics of the past.
the trade in olives. The oil was valued by French influence can be seen in the
the Romans for its flavour but was also “new towns” (villes nouvelles) of Sousse
used in lamps. With some 15 million olive and Sfax although the ancient medinas
trees, the Sahel accounts for over two- of these two ports still have much of
thirds of Tunisia’s olive oil production. their maritime atmosphere.
Tourists admire El-Djem’s impressive amphitheatre

The courtyard of the 18th-century ribat of Monastir
Exploring the Sahel

Situated along Tunisia’s east coast, the Sahel has the
country’s best beaches, an abundance of wildlife, and
numerous historic sites. Located between Hammamet
and Mahdia are Tunisia’s most popular resorts, while Port
el-Kantaoui and Hammamet Jasmine have the country’s
biggest marinas. The once-isolated Kerkennah Islands,
near Sfax, have been steadily developing their tourist Kairouan
infrastructure. Sousse and Sfax are the region’s major
towns and have ancient walled medinas and interesting
museums. Magnificent examples of Islamic architecture
Woman from Hergla selling
can be seen in Monastir, Sousse and Mahdia. wicker baskets
Sbeïtla
Bir Ali
Ben Khélifa
The distinctive dome of Khalaout el-Koubba in Sousse
Gafsa Mezzouna
Getting There
The Sahel region has three airports – Monastir,
Sfax and Enfida International Airport; the last-
named handles the majority of flights for the Sebkhet en
area. The Métro du Sahel (which has a stop-off at Noual
Monastir’s airport) provides a comfortable transport Gafsa
link between Monastir, Mahdia and Sousse. The Skhira
entire coast up to Sfax has railway links with Tunis;
many trains run from Hammamet to Sousse (change Menzel-Habib
at Bir Bou Regba). The louage (shared taxi) also
provides a convenient means of transport; private
El Fejaj
taxis are popular on the route between Sousse and
Monastir. A hired car is best for a trip inland. jaj
E l Fe
ott
Ch Gabès
El-Hamma
Sights at a Glance Kettana

ga
ba
1 Hergla Te
Je b
el G A B È S
2 Port el-Kantaoui Tozeur
3 Sousse pp154–7
4 Monastir pp158–61
MATMATA
5 Mahdia pp164–6
6 El-Djem
7 Sfax pp168–73
8 Kerkennah Islands
9 Gulf of Gabès
0 Matmata

THE SAHEL 151
Tunis
Bou Ficha
Enfida Gul f of
Ha m m a m e t
HERGLA
Kondar
PORT EL-KANTAOUI
Kalaâ
Kebira SOUSSE
Skanès
SOUSSE MONASTIR
M‘saken Lamta
El Hani
Jemmel Moknine
Sebkha de MONASTIR
Sidi el-Hani
MAHDIA
Kerker
Ksour Essaf
A 19th-century house in Sfax
Salakta
M A H D I A
EL-DJEM
Chorbane Chebba
Menzel Hached
El Hencha
Key
Motorway
Bir Tebeug
Jebeniana Major road
Menzel Chaker Other road

Track
Scenic road
S F A X Railway
Chergui El Attaia
Agareb
SFAX Regional border
KERKENNAH
Salt lake
ISLANDS
Sidi Gharbi
Youssef
Mahrès Nakta
0 kilometres 30
0 miles 30
GULF
OF
G
B
A
ÈS
Arram
Medenine
Beach in Chafaar, on the Gulf of Gabès

1 Hergla
north of Sousse. * 6,000. ( Thu.
Perched on a cliff, Hergla

spreads out on both sides of a
fishing harbour. The original
village, known as Horraea
Coelia, was founded in the
2nd century AD by the Romans.
Its remains are a short way from
the village centre. The village
was totally destroyed in the
course of the Arab invasion, but
with time it rose from the ashes. Fountain at the centre of Port el-Kantaoui
In the 18th century it acquired
an attractive mosque. 2 Port el-Kantaoui jasmine and bougainvillea. In
Today this pleasant seaside the evenings most hotels put
Road map D2. 10 km (6 miles) north
village is quiet and largely on their own entertainment,
of Sousse. * 6,000. £ tourist train.
undiscovered, with pretty, n ONTT: Marina Kantaoui, (73) 246 including concerts, folk shows
whitewashed houses and a 903, Port el-Kantaoui (73) 225 755. and belly dancing. The town’s
sandy beach. In the town’s championship-quality golf club
18th-century mosque is the This garden harbour has a course that winds through
tomb of Sidi Bou Mendil, a (el-Kantaoui means “garden”) the olive groves next to the
10th-century holy man who is of the Mediterranean fully marina. Cruises are popular, with
said to have flown back from deserves its name. It is many agencies organizing sea
Mecca on his handkerchief. immersed in flowers, while its trips. Club Sdanek can provide
marina is the second largest information about diving and
in Tunisia. Port el-Kantaoui also offers lessons.
was built in the late 1970s as For children, there is Hannibal
a tourist zone and represents Park, which has a merry-go-
the upmarket end of Tunisia’s round and other rides. Next to
thriving holiday machine, with a this, Acqua Palace has water
complex of smart hotels that is chutes, slides and pools.
situated directly on the beach. At the heart of Port el-
Not surprisingly, there is Kantaoui lies its colourful
plenty for holiday-makers to marina. The yacht basin is full
enjoy. The beach, of course, is of boats swaying gently on
first class, although much of it their moorings. A replica of a
is taken up exclusively by the pirate ship takes visitors on
five-star hotels. The hotels, built sailing trips. The marina is
in an Arab style, are surrounded fringed by restaurants, cafés
A cemetery on the outskirts of Hergla by lush greenery such as and shops selling souvenirs.
Street vendors sell fruit juice
and posies of fresh jasmine.
Jasmine
The white jasmine plant was probably brought to Tunisia from Arabia,
Persia or India. The strong fragrance of its delicate flowers is believed
to lift the spirits and act as an aphrodisiac. Tunisians can often be
seen carrying small posies of jasmine when out strolling or when
sitting down to dinner. Posies are sometimes given as welcoming or
parting gifts, and they are sold
by young boys in cafés and
restaurants. Men place them
behind their ears or carry
them in their hands. Women
frequently wear garlands of
threaded flowers made into
fragrant white necklaces.
Small bottles of jasmine oil are
readily available.
Street vendor selling posies

of white jasmine Yachts moored in Port el-Kantaoui’s
busy marina
THE SAHEL 153
Beaches of the Sahel

The Sahel’s beaches are among the most visited in Tunisia;
many of the region’s hotels can be found close by. Yasmine
Hammamet, a tourist area that opened in Hammamet in
2001, includes Tunisia’s largest marina. The resort town of
Port el-Kantaoui has a long stretch of pristine sand. The
once-deserted beaches on the Kerkennah Islands are
gradually becoming popular with visitors.
1 Hergla
Visitors to Hergla’s beach are
mainly Tunisian. The village
is perched on a cliff and is
quiet and picturesque.
J
Sebkhet Halk 2 Port el-Kantaoui

el-Menzel Here, the stretches of beach are mostly
owned by the hotels, though parts are
open to the public. The facilities include
hire of diving equipment and water bikes.
3 Hammam Sousse
The beaches of this
popular tourist zone,
0 km 3 northwest of Sousse,
0 miles 3 offer fine sand and good
facilities for windsurfing
and paragliding.
J
4 Sousse
Sousse’s main beach is
wide and long and runs
next to the town’s main
promenade. The white
sandy beach close to
the main high-rise hotels
can get very busy, though
there are some quieter
parts further out of town.
5 Skanès
The beaches of this tourist zone
have fine sand and are within
easy reach of the hotels.
6 Monastir
Curving round a bay, Monastir’s main beach
provides a good view of the ribat and the Great
Mosque. The hotel beaches are west of town.

3 Sousse U Great Mosque

Rue el-Aghlaba. Open 8am–2pm Sat–
The capital of the Sahel and the third-largest town in Tunisia, Thu, 8am–1pm Fri (to courtyard). &
Sousse was founded by the Phoenicians in the 9th century BC The Great Mosque stands at the
and was, for a time, Hannibal’s naval base. Throughout the edge of the medina and not –
as is more common – at its
Punic wars it was one of the Phoenicians’ most important
centre. Together with the ribat
towns, along with Carthage and Utique. Modern-day Sousse and the medina walls it formed
is a popular resort town with a sandy beach, an historic walled part of the town’s defensive
medina and, occupying part of the kasbah, an excellent system. This is reflected in its
museum with mosaics from the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. architectural design, which
resembles a fortress rather than
a mosque. Built in 851, at the
Exploring Sousse peak of the Aghlabids’ golden
The medina is entered from age, it was modelled on
Place Farhat Hached or from Kairouan’s mosque. Its vast court-
Place des Martyrs. The medina yard (the only part open to
includes the 9th-century Great visitors) is surrounded by
Mosque and the ribat (fortified columns; carved above them are
monastery). Nearby is the words from the Koran, the date
Turkish-built Zaouia Zakkak. of completion and the names
One of the more picturesque of the mosque’s builders. From
fragments of the medina starts one corner of the building high
uphill, near Bab el-Gharbi. stairs lead to an octagonal sun-
Down towards El-Caid souk are dial. The minaret that rises above
antique stores, workshops and the mosque was built two
cafés. Not far from here is the centuries later. Before that time,
Sofra cistern complex. Narrow Interior of the Great Mosque, viewed from the faithful were called to prayer
streets lead down towards the the courtyard arcades from the tower of the neigh-
main market. Near Bab el-Gharbi bouring ribat. The prayer hall’s
is the kasbah and museum. Enter the square from Avenue arched vault rests on massive
Bourguiba and you’ll see a supports. Its walls are built of
P Place Farhat Hached several-storey-high Artisanat stones laid out in an intricate
This colourful square is the handicraft centre on the right. It pattern, providing an austere
centre of Sousse and the is a good idea to step in here for decoration for the interior.
entrance to the medina. This is a while before entering the
where the town’s main streets medina, to get some idea of the + Ribat
originate (even the railway cuts prices. To the southeast of the Rue de Smyrne.
through it). It is a popular square is Sousse’s harbour. Open 9am–6pm daily. &
meeting place for the young Sousse’s ribat, dating from the
people of Sousse and is also busy P Place des Martyrs Aghlabid period, is one of the
with street vendors. To the Adjoining Place Farhat Hached most famous and best-preserved
north of the square, beyond the is Place des Martyrs. The monastic fortresses in Tunisia.
railway line, is Avenue Bourguiba, 16th-century Sea Gate – Bab Work on its construction began
a modern thoroughfare with el-Bahr – provided entry to probably in AD 787 and was
shops, banks and department the inner harbour. The 18th- completed in AD 821. It was
stores. This runs down to the century fort that once stood on then that the Nador – the
coast and to the seashore boule- this site was destroyed during a 27-m-high (89-ft) watchtower –
vard – Avenue Hedi Cheker. World War II bombing raid. was added at the southwest
corner. The ribat was built at a
time when Christians invading
from Italy were a constant threat
and the tower would have been
used as a lookout point as well
as a beacon for passing on
messages. Today it offers a view
over the entire town.
The garrison consisted of
mercenaries paid by the state.
A ribat offered shelter to
travellers and merchants and,
at times of extreme danger, to
the local population as well.
Monument commemorating Tunisian nationalism, Place des Martyrs The square-shaped structure is
SOUSSE 155
of its military importance and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

began to fall into ruin. It was
restored in 1722 and turned Practical Information
into a Koranic school. Some Road map D3. * 492,000.
additional restoration work was n ONTT: Avenue Habib
carried out in the 1950s. Bourguiba 1, (73) 225 157.
_ Sidi el-Kantaoui Festival (Jul);
U Zaouia Zakkak International Sousse Festival
Rue Tazerka. Closed (Jul–Aug); Folklore Festival (Aug).
A little way west of the ribat Transport
stands an octagonal minaret @ £ k Skanès/Monastir.
whose style is reminiscent of
Renaissance architecture. It
belongs to the Zaouia Zakkak The dome-covered mausoleum,
complex, which was built built in the 18th century,
during the Ottoman era. The stands in the northeast corner
The unassuming main entrance to complex includes a mosque, of the complex.
the ribat a medersa (school) and a
mausoleum and owes its P Rue el-Aghlaba
surrounded by walls over 13 m name to the holy man Rue el-Aghlaba – one
(43 ft) high. Vast bastions were who lived and worked of the medina’s most
placed at the corners and here in the 10th picturesque streets –
halfway along each wall. The century. On his death starts immediately
inner yard is skirted by rows of he was buried in his beyond the ribat and
portico-shaded cells. On the own house, which was runs westwards, past
ground floor these surround later turned into a the Great Mosque,
the yard on all four sides, but medersa. The going deep into the
they are on the first floor – on porticoed entrance medina. One of its
three sides only; the fourth side leads to the courtyard offshoots is Rue
is taken up by a large oratory that is flanked on d’Angleterre that runs
that confirms the religious three sides by southwards to the
character of the building. students’ cells. The covered markets. The
During times of peace, the ribat south end many stalls and shops
was used as a place of study. of the zaouia (tomb) found here form the
Following the building of the was destroyed in commercial heart of
kasbah in the southwest part of 1943 during a Octagonal minaret of Sousse and are a riot
the medina, the ribat lost some bombing raid. Zaouia Zakkak of colour and activity.
Sousse Medina
Bus Terminal
Train Station
1 Place Farhat Hached MAR
IA IBN O
400 metres (440 yards)
LEVA R D YA H
2 Place des Martyrs BOU
Place
RT NORD Farhat Hached
D U R E M PA
3 Great Mosque RUE
RUE DE SMYRNE
Harbour
4 Ribat
Place des
5 Zaouia Zakkak Martyrs
6 Rue el-Aghlaba Ribat

Dar Essid PLACE DE LA
Zaouia GRANDE MOSQUE
SAIDA NEJMA
Zakkak
RUE E M A LT E
D AR RUE D
S U LTA N
BOU L EVA RD MARECHA L TIT O
Great
RUE D'ANGL ETERRE
Mosque
ALI
RU E
A
AB
R UE LAROU S S
HL
ED
AG
Z ARROUK
E EL-
AM
RU
CE
AV E N UE M O H
AROUA
AN
Bab el- SA
RIS
BA
DE FR
Finga
I
RUE S
D E PA
DA
RUE EL
LM
IDI S A I D
RUE
R UE
0 metres 100
SOUKS
Khalaout
el-Koubba Airport
0 yards 100 15 km (10 miles)
K EL CAID
S OU
Bab el-Gharbi R U E
Catacombs
Kasbah

E Khalaout el-Koubba
Rue Zarrouk. Open summer:
10am–6:30pm daily; winter:
8:30am–1pm, 3–6pm daily. &
Not far from the covered souks
and stalls on Rue d’Angleterre
is the Khalaout el-Koubba.
This building, crowned with
a distinctive koubba (dome),
dates from the 11th or 12th
century. Its original purpose
remains a mystery. It was
Walls of the medina, dating from the 9th century probably some kind of tomb
for a major spiritual leader or
+ Medina Walls dating from the Roman and a meeting place. The most
The medina’s western and Byzantine periods, and has a distinctive feature of the
southern extremes are well variety of objects found in the Koubba is its dome, which is
preserved and exceptionally vicinity of the Great Mosque decorated with a zigzag frieze.
picturesque. It is worth taking and the harbour. Set under the This type of decoration, which
a stroll around here to get a arcades of its small courtyard can also be found on some of
taste of the everyday life of are some fine mosaics the domes in Fès and
the medina’s inhabitants. displaying geometric Marrakech (Morocco),
In the 7th century Oqba patterns, animal and dates from the
ibn Nafi’s army destroyed the mythological motifs Almoravid period.
Roman town of Hadrumetum. and Christian The central court
In its place, the Arabs built symbols that were was added at some
Soussa and, some 200 years found in the city’s later date, probably
later, during the Aghlabid Christian catacombs. in the 17th or the
period, Soussa (which was Room No. 3 Roman mosaic from the 18th century.
renamed Sousse) became a houses the most kasbah’s museum The building was
major port for the Aghlabid precious mosaics, used as a fondouk
capital, Kairouan. including a 3rd-century AD (inn) in the 14th century and
The 9th-century walls that depiction of Bacchus in later became a café. It was
surround the medina date from Triumph being drawn along in a restored in 1980 and today
this time. They were built to chariot by lions and tigers. At houses the Museum of Popular
replace the earlier Byzantine the north end of the courtyard Arts and Traditions, which is
walls. To this day they encircle there are some Christian devoted to the history of the
the town with a ring of stone epitaphs taken from the cata- medina, and which has life-size
that is broken only near Place combs and also the sarcophagus tableaux illustrating marriage
des Martyrs, which was bombed of a woman named Theodora. customs and everyday activities.
during World War II. At one time The large, garden-like
there were eight gates. Only courtyard of the kasbah, where E Dar Essid
four now remain standing – there is some pleasant shade Rue du Rempart-Nord 65. Tel (73) 220
Bab el-Gharbi, Bab el-Finga, during summer, contains an 529. Open 10am–7pm daily (summer);
Bab el-Jerid and Bab el-Khabli. exhibition of sculptures, sarco- 10am–6pm daily (winter). &
The only section of wall open phagi, columns and capitals. A small, private museum in
to the public is within the The roof terrace provides a a house near the walls of the
kasbah’s museum (see below). good view of the medina. medina, Dar Essid holds a
+ Kasbah
Boulevard Maréchal Tito. Tel (73) 219
011. Open Apr–mid-Sep: 8am–noon
& 3–7pm Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–Mar:
9am–noon & 2–6pm Tue–Sun. &
A visit to the kasbah, which is
located just outside the
medina’s walls to the south,
should also include a tour of
the Archaeology Museum.
Built originally in 1100 it was
rebuilt and reinforced around
1600. It houses an excellent
museum that displays some of
the best preserved mosaics The courtyard of the Archaeology Museum of Sousse
SOUSSE 157
collection that includes

costumes, jewellery and every-
day items. The decor has been
re-created in the style of a well-
to-do Arab household from the
19th century and includes
family rooms surrounding a
tiled courtyard. It is a charming
place and succeeds admirably
in conjuring up the atmosphere
of an affluent Arab residence.
The house itself dates from AD
928 and is one of the medina’s
oldest homes.
The walled-off area between
Bab el-Finga and Dar Essid is
Sousse’s red-light district.
Ken village – a handicraft centre
The section of catacombs open see early Christian mosaics

to the public consists of a from the nearby site of Upenna.
100-m-long (328-ft) segment of In July, Hammam Sousse hosts
the Catacombs of the Good the Sidi el-Kantaoui Festival.
Shepherd. Most of the graves The village of Ken, 20 km
are bricked up, but a few have (12 miles) north of Sousse, is a
glass windows displaying the purpose-built craft village that
human remains. produces and sells a variety of
handicraft items including
Environs blown glass, textiles and
The areas around Sousse are furniture. The village’s eclectic
planted with olive groves that architecture embraces a variety
have been cultivated here of traditional Tunisian building
Catacombs – the final resting place for since Punic times. Although styles and methods.
15,000 Christians the Romans used oil mainly Park Friguia, situated in
for industrial purposes, it was – Bou Ficha, 58 km (36 miles)
Catacombs along with wheat – Tunisia’s from Sousse, is a large re-
About 2 km/1 mile from the town main agricultural product. creation area that combines
centre, close to Rue Hamed el-Ghazali. Now over 50 varieties of a zoo with an amusement park.
The easiest way to get to the olive trees are grown here. Run in collaboration with the
catacombs is from the bus station Some 43 km (27 miles) Tunisian forestry commission,
or the louage stand in Avenue des northwest of Sousse is Enfida, the zoo is home to some 25
Catacombes. Open Apr–mid-Sep: which has a World War II species of African animals
9am–7pm Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–Mar:
cemetery and a Sunday market. including giraffes and
9am–5pm Tue–Sun.
The town also has a Christian elephants. The zoo also has a
In 1888 a vast complex of church that has been turned restaurant and puts on folk
Christian catacombs was dis- into a museum, where you can shows at peak times.
covered on the outskirts of
Sousse in the west part of the
town. This labyrinth of chambers Tunisian Dolls
and corridors was carved out This warrior-doll is a typical Tunisian souvenir. The dolls
of the soft rock between the are made by hand and come in a variety of colours
3rd and 4th century AD. Its wall and sizes but always include the same basic
niches contain the remains of elements. The head is carved from wood and sports
15,000 Christians. The galleries bushy whiskers, while its trunk is fashioned from
stretch over 5 km (3 miles), wood and wire. The warrior is dressed in wide
though only a small fraction is trousers with a colourful tunic over the top. In his
open to the public. The hand he holds a metal sword. The origin of the
Catacombs of the Good doll is not clear, though its clothes would suggest
Shepherd date from the late that it comes from Turkey. Wooden puppets such
3rd century. They are 1.6 km as these are hung on metal wires and can be seen
(1 mile) long and include 6,000 in almost all Tunisian markets.
graves; the Hermes Catacombs
date from the 3rd century and Tunisian warrior-doll dressed in a vibrant costume
contain 2,200 graves.
4 Monastir begin at the medina. Its most

striking feature is the yellow-
Monastir was founded by the Phoenicians as a port and is a stone Ali el-Mezeri mosque
little way south of Sousse. Julius Caesar camped here before (closed) and the Bourguiba
the Battle of Thapsus in AD 46 but the town’s main claim to Mosque. Towards the sea are
a wide esplanade and the
fame, aside from being a popular resort, is as the birthplace ribat (see pp160–61). The ribat’s
of ex-president Habib Bourguiba. Bourguiba lived here until south gate adjoins the Great
his death in 2000. He is now buried in the cemetery on the Mosque. Stretching before it
town’s northern edge. is a wide avenue flanked by
administration buildings. The
Bourguiba Mausoleum is a little
Exploring Monastir further to the west. The Métro
Monastir is a university town Sahel station, in the medina’s
and provincial capital and western section, has frequent
stands on a small rugged services to the airport, Sousse,
headland in the Gulf of Tunis and Gabès.
Hammamet. It is also a major
player in the Tunisian tourist P Habib Bourguiba
industry and large hotel com- Mausoleum
plexes and souvenir shops are Open 8am–3pm daily.
everywhere. The signs of Habib This marble mausoleum
Bourguiba’s presence here with its gilt cupola stands to
are also commonplace and the north of the ribat, and
include a statue of Bourguiba Habib Bourguiba’s sarcophagus in dominates the Sidi el-Mezeri
as a schoolboy, streets named the mausoleum cemetery. With its gilt cupola
after members of his family and twin minarets, it is hard
and a Bourguiba Mosque. which was built in AD 796 as to miss the building in which
Relics of the town’s Phoenician a coastal defensive fortress, are the remains of Habib
and Roman heritage are still and the first on the African Bourguiba’s family and, within a
evident. The main attraction continent. The Great Mosque, marble sarcophagus, the great
is the town’s famous ribat just south of the ribat, dates man himself. Elsewhere in the
(fortified Islamic monastery), from the 9th century. After cemetery are the tombs of
1534 Monastir, along with marabouts and various spiritual
Sousse and Sfax, enjoyed a masters. Particularly striking is
high degree of autonomy. the 12th-century tomb of Sidi
At this time it resembled a el-Mezeri after whom the
small republic and often cemetery is named.
gave shelter to pirates.
In the 20th century, Habib P Tomb of the Unknown
Bourguiba tried to make Soldier
Monastir into a smart modern Rue de Tunis.
metropolis. He ordered the This modest octagonal
National Palace to be built structure is on the right at
near the Phoenician settlement the beginning of the avenue
of El-Kadima and encircled that leads to the Bourguiba
the ribat with a magnificent mausoleum. It is a symbolic
esplanade. At the same grave for all Tunisians who
time, the town fought for the freedom
Habib Bourguiba also acquired a of their homeland.
Habib Bourguiba was born in large marina.
1903. Having studied law in A walk around + Ribat
Paris he returned to Tunisia Monastir should See pp160–61.
and embarked upon intensive
political work, campaigning
against the French occupation
of his country. Initially a
member of the Destour Party,
he founded the Neo-Destour
Party in 1934. When Tunisia
regained independence
in 1956, Bourguiba became
its first prime minister and
then president.
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
THE SAHEL 159
Pasha Mosque in Tunis. This VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

large structure has undoubtedly
spoiled the general layout of Practical Information
the medina. The building and Road map D3. * 40,000.
its spacious interior (the prayer n ONTT in Monastir: (73) 521
hall can accommodate a 016, ONTT at the airport: (73) 520
congregation of up to 1,000) 894. ( Sat.
combine many features of Transport
modern architecture with @£
the requirements laid upon
traditional Islamic buildings.
Corniche). Towards the sea and
E Museum of the ribat there is a well-stocked
Great Mosque, standing next to the ribat Traditional Costume Handicraft Centre (Artisanat)
Rue de l’Indépendance. Tel (73) 227 that sells a good range of
U Great Mosque 256 or 472 045. Open 8am–1pm & Tunisian souvenirs. The items
Route de la Corniche. 3–6m daily. & sold here carry the government
The Great Mosque stands This little museum, situated not certificate of authenticity
next to the ribat, and was far from the tourist office, has a and are generally of a
built in the 9th century and handful of rooms containing reasonable quality.
further extended during the folk costumes from virtually The square is flanked by
Zirid dynasty (972–1152). Its every region of government
courtyard is flanked by arcades Tunisia. Particularly buildings; the
resting on columns with interesting is the congress hall and
pointed arches. The Roman collection of the theatre are
columns that support the wedding costumes located nearby.
arches were taken from the that includes items Look out for the
ruins at Ruspina. of jewellery. eye-catching
golden statue of
U Bourguiba Mosque P Place du Habib Bourguiba,
Rue de l’Indépendance. Open 8am– Gouvernorat who is depicted
11:30am (courtyard only). Closed Fri. This large square as a schoolboy.
Habib Bourguiba Mosque was lies between Bourguiba’s school
built in 1963 to a design by the medina and originally stood on
Taieb Bouzguend and was a seaside boulevard Fountain in the courtyard of the same spot as
inspired by the Hammouda (Route de la the Bourguiba Mosque the statue.
Monastir
1 Habib Bourguiba Mausoleum
2 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
3 Ribat
RO
UT
4 Great Mosque Habib Bourguiba E D
E LA
Mausoleum FAL
5 Bourguiba Mosque AIS
E
6 Museum of Traditional Costume Sidi el-M ezer i
7 Place du Gouvernorat RU Cem et er y
ROUT E
E S
ID Ribat
I E
L -M
EZ
ER Tomb of the
R I Unknown Soldier
LGE
DE
’A
E D
SKANÈS RU
LA
Airport Great
5 km (3 miles) Museum of Mosque
CO
MEDINA Traditional
R
Costume
N
Bourguiba Gouvernorat
NIS
RU
IC
TU Mosque E
H
ED
DE
E
RU
E
PLACE DE
LIB
L’INDÉPENDANCE Fishing
UIB
A B OAV. Port
YE
RG
Place du UR HA
OU Gouvernorat GU BIB
Bus and Louage .B A
S
UIB
IB
IN
M A
Stations E G
I TA
RU UR
OL
BO
IP
TR
IB LAMTA
B
S
AV
DE
A
.D
H
R.
ES
0 metres
V
300 Train
M
A
AR
Station
TY
0 yards 300
RS

Ribat
The Holy War against Christians, the constant skirmishes with
the Berbers and the plans to carry out military forays to Europe
prompted the building of ribats from the 8th century onwards.
Monastir’s defensive fortress was originally known as the Ribat
de Harthama and combined religious and military functions by
assembling soldiers and mystics under the same roof. It is one of
the oldest and best preserved in Tunisia and was used for scenes
in Zeffirelli’s Life of Christ and Monty Python’s Life of Brian.
Side Entrance
The ribat could originally be entered . Defensive Walls
through any one of its four gates. The walls were completed
Each gate was on a different side in the 11th century and
of the fortress, guarded by included accommodation
mighty bastions that were for soldiers.
constantly being enlarged,
even in the 19th century.
Islamic Art Centre

A museum devoted
to Islamic art is in the
ribat’s prayer room and
includes Arab coins,
fabrics and pottery.
KEY
Battlements
1 Defensive corner turret
Some sections of the
walls are crenellated. The
2 Large courtyard battlements were usually
3 Minaret – towering over the simple, but provided
ribat and the town protection for archers
shooting from the walls.
THE SAHEL 161
Av. Harthoume ibn el-Aychine.
Open May–Sep: 9am–2pm &
2:30–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr:
2–5:30pm daily.
E Islamic Art Centre:
Open 8am–7pm daily. &
Parasols on a Monastir beach
Further Afield zone provides 9,000 hotel

The area around Monastir beds. The beach is wide and
abounds in olive trees, which well kept. As well as bathing,
have been cultivated here equipment can be hired on the
since Roman times. Of more beach for water sports such as
interest to the visitor, Monastir paragliding. A frequent train
has several long, sandy service and taxis provide easy
Decorative Details beaches and small coves. access to town. There are
As in many ribats, there
The most popular of them numerous beach bars. Beach
is little in the way of
are around Skanès. vendors offer light snacks and
decoration. Most heavily
decorated are the window ensure that no one goes
g Port hungry. The beaches around
surrounds and column
capitals; much of this has Route de la Falaise. Khniss are quieter.
worn away over the years. A little way to the southeast
of Monastir, the old fishing Environs
harbour is no longer very It is worth stopping for a while
important to the economy in Lamta, some 15 km (9 miles)
of the town, which derives its southeast of Monastir; it was
main revenue from tourism, once the Roman colony
olive oil production and sea of Leptis Minor, the smaller
salt excavation. There is, sibling of Leptis Magna, in
however, an attractive marina modern-day Libya. Following
not far from the ribat. Fringed the downfall of Carthage, this
by restaurants and cafés, it was one of the six free towns.
provides a pleasant place to Even then, the region was
escape from the summer heat. famous for its olive groves.
Another local speciality was the
L Beaches fish sauce called garum, which
The town’s main tourist complex was much valued throughout
is around Skanès. This tourist the Roman world.
Marabouts
Marabouts were mostly members of Sufi brotherhoods. Revered as
mystics and Islamic holy men or saints, many were believed to have
divine powers. To this day many Tunisians
believe that a marabout has received a
special gift from God (Allah), allowing
him to plead successfully for Allah’s
mercy (baraka) on their behalf.
The main entrance Many Muslims make pilgrimages
to the ribat is from to a marabout’s tomb (also
the south. known as a marabout). One of
the most revered of Tunisia’s
marabouts is Sidi Mehrez –
the patron of Tunis. A plain marabout in Blidet
5 Mahdia from El-Djem (see p167) as well

as a number of oil lamps and
The first Fatimid Caliph, Obeid Allah, known as El-Mahdi a delightful collection of
(the Saviour of the World), waited until the astrologers perfumes in intricate bottles
identified the most propitious moment before founding made of coloured glass, which
are arranged on brightly
this coastal town. Work started in AD 916 and the town was
painted, wooden shelves.
given the name of Mahdia, in honour of the charismatic A section is devoted to Islamic
caliph. Today Mahdia is a major port. It is one of Tunisia’s art and includes mosaics,
most attractive towns and is famous for its house calligraphy (see p171) and
decorations. The busy quayside is lined with palms and some examples of local
has an engaging maritime atmosphere. costumes, including exhibits
relating to their manufacture.
Mahdia is famous for its
P Rue Obeid Allah el-Mahdi house decorations and the
This is one of Mahdia’s main museum also has some good
streets and leads through the examples of the local passion
heart of the medina. The bright for interior decoration.
house walls complement
the colourful shops selling U Mustapha Hamza Mosque
ceramics, carpets and leather Rue Obeid Allah el-Mahdi. Closed.
goods. Along its side streets This mosque, with its lovely
are workshops where weavers façade, was built in the
work on upright looms 18th century during
making silk fabrics destined the town’s Ottoman
for wedding dresses. period. Its octagonal
Silk weaving is a big minaret towers over
business in Mahdia the entire district
and was brought and is typical of
Rue Obeid Allah el-Mahdi – the main here by Jewish Turkish design.
shopping street in Mahdia immigrants from
Libya in the P Skifa el-Kahla
Exploring Mahdia 19th century. The Rue Obeid Allah el-Mahdi.
Mahdia has retained much of loom workers are The huge gate that
its medieval charm. Its medina highly skilled and leads to the town
is entered by a vast gate, Skifa are usually happy to was built in the 10th
el-Kahla. Standing close to Place talk to visitors about Minaret of the Mustapha century by Obeid
du Caire is the Mustapha Hamza their work. Hamza Mosque Allah. Its “dark
Mosque and the Great Mosque. passage” (which gave
Further along the narrow E Municipal Museum the gate its name) was once the
boulevard are the Municipal Rue Obeid Allah el-Mahdi. only entrance to the city and
Museum, the ruins of the former Open 9am–1pm & 4–6pm Tue–Sun led through a wall that was 10
docks, the armoury, the emir’s (mid-Sep–Mar: 9am–4pm). m (33 ft) thick in places. At the
palace and the Great Tower – This modern archaeological time, Mahdia was the private
Borj el-Kebir, which provides a museum houses some fine property of its ruler. All who did
splendid view of the town and Punic, Roman and Christian not belong to the court were
the bay beyond (see p166). statues and ceramics, mosaics forced to live outside the walls
and huge iron grilles were
lowered to deny anyone else
access to the city. The original
gate was destroyed by the
Spanish in 1554 but rebuilt the
same year. The former city
entrance today contains a
covered market selling perfume
and items of jewellery.
P Place du Caire
This small square at the centre
of the medina functions almost
as a salon. The locals, especially
the old men, gather here to
discuss the latest events, to
Relaxing in the shade of the trees in Place du Caire meet with friends, read a
The airy courtyard of the Great Mosque in Sousse
THE SAHEL 165
newspaper or simply light and the mosque VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

ponder over a glass contains stained-
of tea. It is glass windows and Practical Information
pleasant to stop exquisite lamps. Road map D3. * 27,000.
here for a while A lamp in the n ONTT: Rue el-Moez, (73) 680
and survey the mosque is the 604 or 680 000. _ Fête de la
proceedings symbol of God’s Mer (Jul), International Festival
from one of the presence and of Symphonic Music, also at
El-Djem (Jul–Aug). ( Fri.
cafés overlooking appears on the
the Mustapha prayer mats. Transport
Hamza mosque. Detail, façade of the £@
Slimen Hamza Mosque U Great Mosque
U Slimen Hamza Rue de Borj. Open 8am–
Mosque noon daily. Closed to non-Muslims. the direction of Mecca) and
Place Kadhi en-Noamine. Closed. The Great Mosque was founded the monumental portal leading
This building, which stands by Obeid Allah in AD 921. to the courtyard.
facing the Great Mosque, is Destroyed when Charles V and
in an Ottoman-style design. his troops entered the town,
Mosques of this kind generally little of the original building
have a rectangular structure remains and what is seen today
that is crowned with a dome is a reconstruction from the
and include a slim minaret, 1960s and 1970s that was
which is usually octagonal in designed as a replica of the
shape. Tunisian minarets dating original Fatimid mosque. The
from the Ottoman period have most obvious Fatimid element
a much greater diameter than is the monumental entrance
their Turkish counterparts, gate, which was used
however. The prayer hall is exclusively by the caliph’s
large and much brighter than family. In the prayer hall this
those found in Kairouan-type segregation is also apparent,
mosques. There is very little with a central aisle that was
ornamentation and the only reserved for the ruler and his
furnishings and decorations privileged entourage. Original
consist of carpets and parts of the structure that
calligraphic inscriptions. can still be seen are the remains
More attention is paid to the of the mihrab (niche indicating Arcaded walkway of the Great Mosque
Mahdia
1 Skifa el-Kahla
2 Municipal Museum
3 Rue Obeid Allah el-Mahdi
4 Mustapha Hamza Mosque BE
UR
A
IJ
5 Place du Caire SID
RE E
6 Slimen Hamza Mosque MB RU AME
D
VE J MOH
O RUE HA ESSALEM
7 N
Slimen
AB
7 Great Mosque UE Hamza Mosque
RUE
T
EN A
AV UR
FO
DU C
EL
N
IB Borj el-Kebir,
A IR
E PLACE
RU KADHI EN Fatimid Port
E
Place du Caire NOAMINE

I
M AHD
H E L-
A LL A
O B E ID
Skifa
el-Kahla RUE
Mustapha Hamza Great
Mosque Mosque
ES
ID
TIM
Municipal
Museum
S F
A RJ
DE BO
E Sea
PLACE R UE D
L’INDÉPENDANCE ean
rran
E
RU
te
di
e
KSOUR ESSAF, M ar ket

M
Salakta
0 metres 50
Train Station
0 yards 50 300m (330 yards)
Bus and Louage Stations
3 km (2 miles)

Further Afield
Standing beyond the walls of
the medina is an old Fatimid
port, a Muslim cemetery
established in the 16th century
scenically located on top of a
hill, and the Punic necropolis –
the second largest after
Carthage. Among the objects
discovered here is a clay
statuette of a naked goddess,
wearing a crown. A short way
southwest, in Ksour Essaf, is the
zaouia (tomb) of Sidi Ali Mahjub.
Muslim necropolis near a lighthouse
+ Borj el-Kebir
Rue de Borj. Open Tue–Sun. Apr: terrace provides a wonderful could accommodate 30 ships.
9am–6pm; May–mid-Sep: 9am–7pm; view of the surrounding area. During the Obeid Allah’s time
mid-Sep–Mar: 9am–4pm. & In the 16th century Mahdia was the port had its own defensive
This 16th-century Turkish fort a pirate stronghold and became walls. Now only a small section
stands on the site of Obeid closely linked with the intrigues of these walls remains, on the
Allah’s palace. A narrow corridor of the superpowers of the day, south side of the port.
leads to a courtyard flanked by such as Spain and Turkey. The
rows of small cells and a most famous corsair residing
mosque. The fortress was rebuilt in Mahdia was Dragut.
several times. Until the 16th
century it had a rectangular T Fatimid Port
ground plan; the mighty The port’s construction is
bastions were added in the generally attributed to caliph
18th century. The southwestern Obeid Allah. It was probably
bastion includes the entrance, built on the site of the old Punic
from which a gently curving port. The Fatimids had a very
corridor leads to a gate adorned strong fleet, which they
with a stone rosette. The gate inherited from the Aghlabids.
opens to a barrel-vault passage Obeid Allah wanted Mahdia to
resembling Skifa el-Kahla, which be both a fortress and a strong
leads to the reception hall that naval base. The 15-m-long
was restored during the colonial (49-ft) canal that leads to the Remains of 10th-century
period. Stairs from the small port was guarded by two Fatimid fortifications
courtyard lead to the first floor, towers, and fragments of their
where the fort’s commander foundations can be seen today. Environs
had his quarters. The castle’s The basin was a rectangle and The small town of Ksour Essaf,
11 km (7 miles) south of Mahdia,
is famous for its textiles and
contains the 18th-century
zaouia (tomb) of Sidi Ali Mahjub.
The dome of the sanctuary is
decorated with grooved
terracotta ornaments. Inside
the mosque is an unusual
mihrab, placed on wheels.
In Salakta, 14 km (9 miles)
from Mahdia and a short taxi
ride from Ksour Essaf, are the
ruins of the Roman port and
fishing village of Sullectum.
The port was probably used
for shipping lions that were
destined for the gladiatorial
arena at El-Djem. The nearby
beach is a pleasant place to
stroll and has some further
Roman remains, including a
Bastion of Mahdia’s main fort – Borj el-Kebir bath and some villa walls.
THE SAHEL 167
6 El-Djem VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This former Punic town – Thysdrus – declared itself on the Practical Information
side of Rome during the Third Punic War in AD 146. It proved Road map D3. * 12,000.
Amphitheatre: Open 7:30am–
to be a wise move and after the fall of Carthage El-Djem was 6:30pm Tue–Sun (mid-Sep–Mar:
awarded the status of a free town. In the mid-3rd century it 8am–5pm). Museum: Tel (73) 520
became a Roman colony, and became among the richest 894. Open As above. & (joint
towns in Roman Africa. The most magnificent historic relic of ticket). _ Symphonic (Jul–Aug).
El-Djem is its 3rd-century amphitheatre. Transport
@
. Amphitheatre
Built in 230–238 this is the world’s third-largest Roman
amphitheatre and the best-preserved Roman relic to be
found in Africa. Corridors
The corridors lead to all levels
of the auditorium, which
measures 427 m
(1,401 ft)
in diameter.
Elliptical arena, measuring

65 x 39 m (213 x 128 ft)
The highest seats

provide a breathtaking
view. The games could
be watched by over
30,000 spectators.
Mosaics
As well as some gladiatorial
. Museum scenes, the mosaics
The museum is housed in one of Tunisia’s displayed in the museum
best-preserved Roman villas, on the have some more abstract
outskirts of El-Djem. and stylized designs.
7 Sfax U Great Mosque

The port of Sfax is Tunisia’s second-largest city and its major Begun in AD 849 by the
commercial centre. Once a Roman settlement, its prosperity Aghlabids, the Great Mosque
was founded on its shipping fleet and the trade in olive oil. was modelled on its famous
contemporary in Kairouan.
Sfax is known for its unhurried atmosphere and it has a
It stands at the heart of the
compact medina with wonderful covered souks and two medina, at the junction of its
excellent museums. A regular ferry route runs from the port two main roads. The mosque
to the Kerkennah Islands (see p176) a little way offshore. has been modified several times
and was rebuilt extensively in
988 and 1035. In the 12th
century the courtyard was
reduced by half, allowing for
the enlargement of the prayer
hall, which still maintains an
L-shaped layout. By the 18th
century the mosque was in
its present form.
The minaret, rising at the
north end of the courtyard, is a
replica of the minaret adorning
Kairouan’s Great Mosque. It is
three storeys high and is richly
decorated with Kufic script and
floral motifs. The mosque is
Bab Diwan, standing at the end of Avenue Hedi Chaker closed to non-Muslims, its
eastern wall being the only
Exploring Sfax + Bab Diwan section that is visible. The best
The city stretches between the Bab Diwan is the medina’s main view of the minaret can be
medina walls and the harbour. entrance and is located on the had from Rue des Aghlabites,
Rebuilt in the late 1940s, south side. It was built in the early which runs along the north
modern Sfax resembles any 14th century, but was extensively side of the mosque.
large European city, with wide remodelled in the 17th and
avenues, squares and public 18th centuries. It was finally
parks. Hedi Chaker Avenue runs restored in the 20th century.
from Hedi Chaker Square to Along with Bab Jebli in the
Bab Diwan – one of two gates north, Bab Diwan was once one
leading to the old town. Beyond of only two entrances to the city.
it lies the medina. It is well Its ironclad doors would have
worth taking a stroll along been closed tightly at night to
Rue Mongi Slim, stopping for protect Sfax from intruders.
a while at the colourful spice Bab Diwan was designed to
market in Rue des Aghlabites. complement the 9th-century
walls built by the Aghlabids.
These walls originally marked
the boundaries of the city,
although modern Sfax has long
since outgrown these limits.
Beyond the walls were olive
groves, which flourished thanks Men relaxing inside the Great Mosque
to earlier Roman irrigation
systems. One of the gate’s E Dar Jellouli Museum
towers now houses a charming See pp172–3.
Moorish-style café.
P Rue Borj Ennar
P Rue de la This narrow street follows the
Grande Mosquée southern section of the walls,
This is one of the main streets of from Rue de la Grande Mosquée
the medina. It starts at the to the fortress of Borj Ennar. This
Grand Mosque and runs south is a typical medina street, lined
in a straight line towards the with workshops, small shops
Rue de la Grande Mosquée – full of shops medina walls, which are and rows of unassuming doors
and always busy parallel to Rue Mongi Slim. leading to private homes. It also
S FA X 169
the French district of Sfax. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Borj Ennar now houses the
Association de Sauvegarde de Practical Information
la Médina, a group responsible Road map D4. * 340,000.
for preserving the medina. n ONTT: Avenue Mohammed
You can find a detailed street Hedi Khefacha, (74) 497 021.
map of the old town here, as _ (Jul–Aug). ( Fri.
well as more information about Transport
the medina’s history. @£
Further Afield
Other places worth visiting The English Patient. Beyond the
include Sidi Abu el-Hasan’s walls, stretching out to the
Borj Ennar, built into a section of mausoleum, located a short north, is the new town, which
the city wall distance to the west of the suffered heavy damage during
mosque; and the blacksmiths’ World War II. Hedi Chaker
contains a number of small souk, situated to the north. In and Avenue Habib Bourguiba
mosques such as Amar Kamoun the 10th century this was a are streets with beautiful
mosque, between Nos. 50 and fondouk (inn) and featured in 19th-century houses. A little
52, which was built in the Anthony Minghella’s 1996 film further on, to the southwest,
14th century and substantially is Sfax’s port and a thriving
modified four centuries later. daily fish market.
+ Borj Ennar P Place de la République

Rue Borj Ennar. Place de la République is at
Open 8:30am–6pm Tue–Sun. the junction of Avenue Habib
Borj Ennar – the “Tower of Fire” – Bourguiba and Avenue Hedi
owes its name to the beacons Chaker and dates back to the
that used to be lit on its tower French Protectorate, when the
as signals. Located at the administration centre was built
southeast corner of the medina outside the medina walls. Much
walls, this was one of the main of this area was destroyed
defensive towers of old Sfax, during wartime bombing
and was built at the same time raids, although several colonial
as the medina walls. From the buildings have survived. The
top, there is a splendid view A small mosque in a row of houses in square contains a monument
over the entire medina and Rue Borj Ennar to Habib Bourguiba.
Sfax Medina
1 Bab Diwan Market R
2 Rue de la Grande Mosquée
U
E
Bab IN
E
RU
DD
Jebli Blacksmiths RE
DE
3 Great Mosque Bab AI

E D
Souk H
Jedid E K
S R
RU
4 Dar Jellouli Museum
TE
U
RU TUR
EM
RU E SID
IN
CA
E D IER
RU
5 Rue Borj Ennar

P
ES S
ID
IL
ART
EL
B IJ O
E
R U EU T IE R S
IBE L
6 Borj Ennar KH Bab

DI
S
SI
DES
Chergui
HA SSEN
S O OF F E S
E
SOUKS
ET
RU
UK
S ID
I
IBA
DES
RUE ELIL DR
KH LA
AVENUE DE L’ARM
E
E D
MO
BIT E
S RU
LA
AG H Dar Jellouli
DES
NG
RUE FA
ALI
RUE
RUE
Sidi Karray Museum KH

DU
I
Mosque R AY
DE L
AR E
DAR
I K RU
I AL
AG
ID Great
E S I
ESSE
RU Mosque DH
RAN
QUE CA
SLI
C U
A ME E D
RUE DE L
RU E BE
BAI
DE M
RU
ÉE
RUE H A N N O N
QU E
M
ME C
RUE CH
Borj
O
E LA AR
SQU
N KA D
N
R UE D J EN Ennar
BOR
RUE
ÉE
RU E EL
EIKH TI
DOU
AV E
Amar Kamoun
IDE
Kasbah
R
JA
Mosque
KS AR
ED
NI
EJJ
Mosque Train Station
18 J
Bab Diwan
AB 250 metres (280 yards)
E B
RU
AN
Place de la
PLACE République
VIER
Kasbah DE LA
KASBAH
0 metres 150
Bus Station
600 metres (660 yards) 0 yards 150

P Kasbah
Open 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. &
Sfax’s kasbah can be found in
the medina’s southern quarter.
Part of the building is 12th
century but it was gradually
extended until, by the 17th
century, it had reached the size
of a large fortress. Initially it
served as a watchtower and
later as the residence of the
Hafsid governor. After that, it
became the headquarters of
Sfax’s military commander.
Today, the kasbah houses
the Museum of Traditional
Architecture and contains
exhibits on religious, private Two-colour façade of the modern town hall
and public Tunisian building.
A number of the exhibits are When shopping for a carpet, P Town Hall
outdoors. These include a head for Souk des Etoffes, which Place de la République. Tel (74) 229
model illustrating the design was also used as a setting in The 744. Archaeological Museum
of the medina walls and the English Patient. The narrow Open Sep–Jun: 8:30am–1pm
construction methods used by streets surrounding Rue des & 3–6pm; Jul–Aug: 8am–3pm.
their builders. Best of all, a trip Aghlabites are full of stalls and Closed Sun.
to the kasbah provides an shops selling a variety of spices, The town hall was erected
opportunity to walk along herbs, gum arabic and blue during the French Protectorate
the battlements. talismans that protect the in the early 20th century. Built
wearer against the “evil eye”. in a Moorish style, it features a
Squeezing through a narrow tall, minaret-like clock tower at
medina entrance at the end of the corner. A dome covers the
Rue Mongi Slim, visitors emerge main hall.
into a modern, but very pleasant, The ground floor of the
covered market where fruit, building now houses a small
vegetables and spices are on sale. Archaeological Museum,
At the back is a butcher’s hall. with exhibits ranging from
In Rue de la Driba, not far prehistoric to Roman and
from Dar Jellouli Museum, you’ll Arab times. These include flint
Shady entrance to Sfax’s historic kasbah find Hammam Sultan, which is items, pottery, glass, tomb
Sfax’s oldest bathhouse. It was steles (grave stones) and a
P The Souks restored in the 18th century variety of objects dating from
Strolling through the shady and is still open to the public. the Punic, Byzantine and
streets and alleyways, it is not Roman periods.
hard to see that Sfax’s medina Avenue Hedi Chaker The most interesting sections
is one of the loveliest and best Hedi Chaker is one of Sfax’s include the collections of coins,
preserved in the whole of smartest streets. It runs from the frescoes, terracotta, Roman
Tunisia. Indeed, much of Sfax’s square in front of the town hall drinking vessels, Muslim books,
market district was used as a to Bab Diwan – the main gate jewellery and mosaics.
stand-in for Cairo in the film leading to the medina. Along
The English Patient. it there are travel agents, Avenue Habib Bourguiba
The narrow alleys can be pharmacies, restaurants, music Situated in the new part of
crowded but become quieter shops, banks and a theatre. town, this runs from the railway
during siesta hours. The old station in the east to the
town is divided into markets harbour in the west and
(souks) – specializing in perfumes, crosses Avenue Hedi Chaker.
spices, textiles, bags, gold, It is one of the town’s main
carpets and food. thoroughfares and is lined with
Souk ar-Rabi, situated in the restaurants and hotels as well as
northern part of the medina, nightclubs, banks, travel agents’
specializes in the production of offices and a post office. Here,
chechia hats, while the former modern offices stand next to
Rue el-Bey is now the black- stylish apartment blocks
smiths’ souk and rings to the reminiscent of 19th-century
sound of hammering. Vegetable souk at the edge of the medina Parisian architecture.
S FA X 171
Arabic Calligraphy
For Islamic countries calligraphy, or the art of handwriting, has a special importance and
copying the Koran is a highly esteemed skill. The Islamic edict prohibiting representation
of the human form further promoted calligraphy as a kind of decoration. Arabic
calligraphy is based on the Kufic script. This almost geometric style was ideal for carving
in stone. Some fine examples of Kufic script can be seen on the eastern wall of Sfax’s
Great Mosque. By the end of the 12th century, Kufic had been largely replaced in North
Africa by a style of calligraphy known as Maghribi, which arrived in Tunisia via Granada
(Spain) and Fès (Morocco).
Kufic script was used as a highly decorative element in Islamic

architecture. Its earliest forms were characterized by rigid, angular lines.
Tomb steles were

often decorated
with Kufic script. Its
appearance evolved
with time, tending
towards richer forms.
This resulted in a
variety of types,
including floral kufi,
interwoven kufi, and
kufi enclosed within
floral or geometric
borders. From the Decorative calligraphic
12th century compositions painted on
onwards the Kufic glass became popular in the
script was used only 19th century. Their roots can be
for decoration. found in Ottoman art. Highly
colourful, they were often used
to display Koranic verses.
Paper was first used

by the Arabs in the
8th century. Blue
paper is very rare and
surviving examples of
early Arab script on
blue paper are highly
valued by collectors.
El-bijazi, though
not ornamental, is The most valuable
a popular form of copies of the Koran are
the Arabic script. embellished with gold
This private letter letters. From the 13th
was written on century onwards, literary
parchment using and scientific works were
sepia ink. also decorated.
Dar Jellouli Museum

Located in the heart of the medina, the Dar Jellouli Regional Colonnades
Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions occupies a 17th-century surround the
courtyard at the
courtyard house that used to belong to the Jelloulis, one of the first-floor level.
most important families in Sfax. Behind a fairly unassuming
façade, the building hides many opulent details – a pretty
wooden balustrade, decorated ceilings, walls lined with faience
tiles – that reveal the wealth of its former owners. Over two
floors, the museum illustrates everyday life in Sfax,
a city balancing rural and urban identities.
. Costumes
Historically, Tunisians attached
great importance to their
clothes, which also marked
the social rank of the wearer.
A typical woman’s outfit
consisted of a tunic, a scarf
and a veil, complemented
The kitchen has been
with items of jewellery.
reconstructed with the
same degree of precision
as the other rooms.
1st floor
Ceilings
Houses belonging to
the wealthy were
heavily decorated.
Window and door
frames were intricately
carved; ceilings were
decorated in geometric
or other patterns.
Rooms
Rooms within grand houses
had a T-shaped floor layout.
Wall shelves were used as
cabinets and displayed bric-
a-brac and lamps. Low sofas
were usually arranged facing
each other, or placed around
the walls of a niche.
Gallery Guide Key

Many of the museum’s exhibits have been designed to create the impression Jewellery
that the Jellouli family still live here. The ground floor contains furniture, Costumes
kitchen appliances and vessels. Here, visitors can learn how to make harissa,
Calligraphy
the traditional spicy Tunisian sauce, or study the art of creating aromatic
oils used for producing perfumes. The first floor is given over to a collection Historic interiors
of traditional costumes (including wedding garments) and jewellery. Non-exhibition rooms

S FA X 173
. Jewellery VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Women always wore
plenty of jewellery. Practical Information
Jewelled headgear Rue de la Driba. Tel (74) 221 186.
was a standard Open 8am–noon, 3–6pm Tue–
piece of attire for a Sun (9:30am–6pm Sep–Mar). &
wedding or other The museum is situated in the
formal occasion. eastern part of the medina; the
way to it from Rue de la Grande
Mosquée is marked with arrows.
Glass Paintings
Dar Jellouli houses an
interesting collection of
glass decoration. This
includes quotes from the
Koran and decorative
calligraphic characters of
symbolic significance.
. Alcove
Dar Jellouli would have had a strictly
divided space. The upper floors were used
mainly by women. The ground-floor rooms
(apart from the kitchen) were the male
section. Women were not admitted to
most gatherings held in the house.
Chest
Richly ornamented
chests were used by
the family to store
valuable fabrics,
clothes and thick
quilts, which were
used as beds.
Windows
Windows were fitted with
intricate wooden grilles,
Ground floor which were designed to
protect women from the
Entrance gaze of strangers.
A Traditional Arab Town

In the 9th and 10th centuries a new type of Arab town
emerged, laid out on a grid pattern. The towns built in this
style include Kairouan and Mahdia. In order to protect
their populations from invasion, towns in the
11th and 12th centuries began to develop
districts known as medinas that were guarded
by gates and surrounded by a high wall. At
the medina’s centre stood the Great Mosque,
with markets and public baths nearby. The Walls surrounding the town were broken in four
urban landscape was enriched by further places by gates. It was customary to use the
grounds immediately next to the gates, inside
religious buildings, including Islamic or outside, for cemeteries.
schools and zaouias (tombs).
The turrets of the
The medina’s streets defensive walls
are narrow and shady.
Kasbahs were normally sited on

hilltops or close to harbours.
They had high walls and small
windows. Some of the most
beautiful examples can be seen
in Sousse, Le Kef and Tunis.
Sfax’s Medina
This is one of Tunisia’s best-preserved old
quarters and conforms to Islamic principles of
architecture. At its centre is the Great Mosque,
which is surrounded by the town’s souks. The
The roof was and still is an integral part of a souks, according to custom, are located in a
Tunisian house. This is where family and friends hierarchy. Incense and candle dealers are
might meet over coffee. During the hottest closest to the mosque while noisy blacksmiths
summer nights, mattresses are often moved to and vendors serving the caravan trade were
the roof for a more comfortable night’s sleep. located at the medina’s edge.
THE SAHEL 175
The towers at Souks, besides being markets, were

the four corners also scenes of political discussions
of the medina
and plotting. They also included a
walls were
supported by wide variety of places where people
buttresses and could go for a glass of mint tea and
crenellated; listen to professional storytellers.
they were built
into the walls
that formed
part of the
fortifications.
Dars were homes of the

medina’s elite. Externally
they did not differ much
from the surrounding
buildings but the beauty
and the riches of their
interiors were stunning.
The gates guarding the

entrance to towns usually
numbered between two and
six. During the day markets
would be held close by. At
night the gates were closed.
The Great Mosque is the

most important and usually
the most beautiful of an
Arab town’s mosques. Smaller mosques (some the
Communal Friday prayers size of a living room) were often
are the busiest time. In the situated on the ground floors
early days of Islam this was of other buildings. They were
the only mosque that had a used for Friday prayers from
minbar (pulpit). the 12th century onwards.
migrants number around

400,000 and include several
varieties of gull and heron
as well as tern, plover,
oystercatcher and flamingo.
The main town on the
shores of the gulf is Gabès.
Its foremost historic relic is
the 12th-century Sidi Driss
Mosque. Other attractions
include a Museum of Popular
Arts and Traditions, which is
housed in a former medersa,
and a trip to the local oasis. For
visitors and Tunisians alike,
Interior of the 12th-century Sidi Driss Mosque however, Gabès is famous
mainly as the centre of henna
8 Kerkennah El-Attaia. The main attractions production, which can be
Islands include fine white sand, quiet purchased here cheaply.
surroundings and excellent
Road map E4. * 15,000. conditions for snorkelling. The
g Av. Mohammed Hedi Khefacha.
islands are flat (the highest
_ Festival of Octopus (Mar); Festival
point is only 13 m/43 ft above
of Mermaid (Jun).
sea level) and are therefore
Located just 20 km (12 miles) ideally suited for cycling. The
off the coast of Sfax, the main resort is Sidi Frej on
Kerkennah Islands were once Chergui, which lies west of
a place of exile. Hannibal was Ouled Kacem. From here it is
sent here, as were Roman possible to walk along the
outlaws and, much later, beach to the Roman ruins at
Habib Bourguiba. Even today Borj el-Hissar.
the 180 sq km (70 sq miles) of
archipelago, comprising seven
islands, has a desolate feel and 9 Gulf of Gabès Underground houses in Matmata, providing
only two of the islands (Gharbi Road map D4, D5.
shelter from the heat
and Chergui) are inhabited.
Depending on the time of Stretching south from Sfax all 0 Matmata
year, up to five car ferries the way to the Libyan border, Road map D5. * 8,500. @
provide daily transport links the Gulf of Gabès’s sandy
with the mainland. The journey marshes provide a winter The Berber village of Matmata
takes about 75 minutes. The home for half of the entire lies 650 m (2,133 ft) above sea
ferries sail to Sidi Youssef on bird population that migrates level and is 40 km (25 miles)
Gharbi. On the northeastern to the Mediterranean basin south of Gabès. This is the
coast lies the islands’ capital – from the north. The winter biggest and best known of the
troglodyte villages, where the
houses have been dug out of
Sponges the rock to escape the intense
Tunisia is a good place to purchase real sponges, which have daytime heat. This building
been collected for hundreds of years from the Gulf of Gabès. tradition, which allows the
Sponges are marine creatures rooms to maintain an even
and spend their lives motionless, temperature of about 17° C
attached to rocks or the seabed; (63° F) throughout the year,
they do not have any nerve cells goes back hundreds of years.
or muscles, and do not display In the 1960s the three biggest
any reaction to external stimuli. cave compounds were turned
They filter organisms and
into hotels. Many houses are
organic matter by letting a
still occupied and they inspired
constant stream of water flow
through their bodies. Sponges George Lucas, the creator of
have amazing powers of the Star Wars films, to spend
regeneration. Even a tiny many days shooting scenes here.
fragment, consisting of just a few The current centre of the
cells of the same kind, is able to region is New Matmata, which
Cutting sponges in a workshop reproduce a new sponge. is situated about 15 km (9 miles)
from old Matmata.
THE SAHEL 177
The Hammam
It would be hard to imagine a Tunisian town without a bathhouse. The custom of
building them was passed down from antiquity and the need for them was kept up by
the Islamic requirement for ritual cleanliness, particularly the ablutions carried out prior
to prayers. At one time there was at least one bathhouse in every street, and in large
towns they could number several hundred. Visitors would undress in a special room,
put on a thin towel and enter the water. Washing was originally carried out using oil of
jojoba or soapwort in place of soap.
Hammams were a
vital part of life in
Roman times and
served a social
function as well as a
hygienic one.
Everything needed
for a bath could be
bought from a
vendor who stood
by the front door.
The attendants
cleaned the rooms Hammam rooms serve a variety of
and scrubbed the purposes. Some are used for bathing;
slabs, which were others – filled with steam – for opening
heated with hot air. the pores and cleansing the skin.
Massages and haircuts are among

the treatments offered in hammams.
Temperatures in a Tunisian hammam are not as high as Hammams once employed barbers
in a sauna. Nevertheless, the steam and the hot-water who were also skilled in bloodletting.
pool will warm the body in no time at all. Payment for a visit is made on leaving.
Women used to visit hammams around midday. This provided them with an opportunity to go
out (shopping was done by men). Older women would scrutinize the younger ones, searching for
wives for their sons.
DJERBA AND THE

MEDENINE AREA
The island of Djerba lies at the southern end of the Gulf of Gabès,
5 km (3 miles) from the mainland. It is known for its wonderful
sandy beaches, its warm climate and its picturesque capital of
Houmt Souk. Other attractions include fortified smallholdings
(menzels) and Ibadite mosques. Back on the mainland, the area
around Medenine has scenic hills and ancient villages.
Were it not for the dogged determination trading in fish, olive oil and ceramics.
of its people, Djerba would remain no The advent of Islam in the 7th century
more than a scrap of desert. The was accompanied by the arrival of the
inhabitants of this barren island have Ibadites, an austere Islamic school of
managed to turn into one big garden, religious thought and practice that was
however, with olive and orange groves hostile to authority. Their descendants
and orchards. There are about 4,000 wells still inhabit western parts of the island.
on the island, and the tourist zone is In the 16th century the Malekite school
supplied with water by an aqueduct. began to gain popularity and now the
Beautiful whitewashed mosques and majority of Djerba’s population is Sunni
traditional menzels hidden behind high Muslim. There is also a small but significant
hedges add to Djerba’s charm. Jewish contingent, whose ancestors
According to myth, Odysseus landed arrived here some 2,000 years ago. The
here and nearly lost his crew to the El-Ghriba synagogue is still a place of
amnesia-inducing food of the resident reverence for Jews.
lotus-eaters. From the 4th century BC, Medenine was once an important
Djerba was ruled from Carthage; later stopping point for caravans and is a
on it passed into the hands of the Romans. good base for forays into the villages
The island’s prosperity is derived from scattered among the nearby hills.
Wickerwork products for sale in Houmt Souk

A magnificent mosque in Zarzis, in the Medenine area
Exploring Djerba and the Medenine Area

Djerba occupies an area of 538 sq km (208 sq miles) and is virtually flat.
It is one of Tunisia’s most popular tourist destinations. As the temperature
on the island never falls below 15° C (59° F) even in winter, it is a popular
resort all year round. Zarzis, on the mainland, is slowly beginning to rival
Djerba as a tourist area, but it is more difficult to reach. The Zarzis peninsula
is the region’s main area for growing citrus fruits and olives. Medenine,
40 km (25 miles) southwest of Djerba, provides a good starting point
for a tour of the ksour (fortified villages).
Gulf of
Gabès
Gabès
Toujane
Ajim – pots used for catching octopus

Metameur
MEDENINE
Beni
Kheddache
Key
Tataouine
Major road
Other road
Track Tataouine
Scenic road
Regional border
Salt lake
Sights at a Glance
1 Houmt Souk pp182–3
2 El-Ghriba
3 El-May
4 Ras Remel
5 Midoun
6 Aghir
7 Guellala
8 Zarzis
9 Medenine
Tours
0 Around the Gulf of Bou Grara
pp192–3 Crocodiles in an amusement park in Djerba
DJERBA AND THE MEDENINE AREA 181
HOUMT
Borj SOUK RAS REMEL
Jillij
Hara Kebira Island of Djerba

Hara Sghira
EL-GHRIBA Ras Taguerness
EL-MAY MIDOUN
Mahboubine
AGHIR
Ajim GUELLALA
Jorf El-Kantara
Hassi Jerbi
Sangho
Gulf of
Souihel Fairy-tale entrance to the waxworks museum in Guellala,
Bou Bou Grara
Grara E A southern Djerba
TH AR
D
GR
Gightis
UN
ARO B OU ZARZIS
F
F O
GUL
Sebkhet
el-Mellah
0 kilometres 20
M E D E N I N E 0 miles 20
Sebkhet
Bou Jemel Birhet
el Bibane
El Marsa
Je
ff
ar
a
Tripoli
Ben
Guerdane Sebkhet
Adhibate
Tataouine
Taguelmit
Getting Around
Most of Djerba’s visitors arrive by air,
using charter flights. The airport is
situated west of Houmt Souk. Some
visitors arrive by ferry, which sails from
Jorf harbour to Ajim. This is the most
convenient way when travelling from
the north, from the direction of Gabès.
If you’re coming from the southeast,
from the Zarzis peninsula, the easiest
way is to follow the road leading across
the causeway, straight to Djerba’s
tourist zone. The P19 runs north from
the Sahara Desert towards Medenine.
The Libyan border is about 100 km
(62 miles) to the east of Medenine.
1 Houmt Souk another. Each belongs to a

different Islamic school.
Djerba’s charming capital lies on the island’s northern shore. The multi-domed Mosque of
Houmt Souk literally means “market quarter”, revealing the the Strangers is used by the
long-standing importance of trade to the town, and its Malekites and is topped with an
ornate minaret. The El-Sheikh
narrow streets and ancient souks are full of shops selling mosque is the main mosque
jewellery, clothes and souvenirs. Also of interest are the of the Ibadites, while the
fondouks that were built as inns for travelling merchants Mosque of the Turks is used by
during the Ottoman period, and the 13th-century fortress, the Hanefites.
Borj el-Kebir, which provides stunning views along the coast.
P Zaouia of Sidi Brahim
Place Sidi Brahim.
The entire complex consists of a
school, the tomb of Sidi Brahim,
a hammam, and a bakery. The
school was founded in the 17th
century by the Muradids, with
the aim of promoting the
Malekite school of Islam. The
medersa’s large courtyard is
flanked on three sides by
arcades and on the fourth by
the prayer hall. Small steps lead
Avenue Habib Bourguiba, a thoroughfare and a place of relaxation from the courtyard to the first-
floor gallery.
Exploring Houmt Souk selling leather goods, jewellery
To the north of the town lies the and handmade fabrics. The P Place Hedi Chaker
harbour, and close to it the Borj only covered souk is Souk Rue Mohammed Ferjani leads
el-Kebir. The old town centre is ar-Rab. The old fondouks are to this square, which is in the
fairly compact. Rue Mohammed among the most interesting and town centre. A lively place, it
Ferjani leads to the shady Place picturesque features of Houmt makes an excellent spot to sit
Hedi Chaker. Nearby is the Souk. These former lodging down for a while, order a cup of
Mosque of the Turks, which houses combined the functions coffee or tea and take in what is
serves as a market venue. Rue of stores and inns and were going on.
Moncef Bey, running parallel to used by travelling merchants.
Rue Mohammed Ferjani, has an Some of the fondouks have now U Mosque of the Turks
interesting fondouk with a large been converted into hotels or Avenue Mohammed Ferjani.
courtyard. On the left-hand side youth hostels. Closed to non-Muslims.
of Place Sidi Brahim is the tomb The Mosque of the Turks,
of Sidi Brahim. On the opposite U Mosque of the Strangers covered with seven white
side of the road is the Mosque Avenue Abdel Hamid el-Kadhi. Tel (75) domes, is the town’s largest
of the Strangers. A walk along 606 4715. Closed to non-Muslims. mosque and dates from the
Avenue Abdel Hamid el-Kadhi In Houmt Souk there are three 17th century. It is used by the
leads to the Museum of Arts mosques standing next to one followers of the Hanefite school
and Popular Traditions, housed of Islam, which proclaims
in the mausoleum of an Islamic rationalism and tolerance
holy man. towards other religions. This
branch of Islam reached its
P Avenue Habib Bourguiba peak of popularity during the
This main street cuts across the Ottoman period but is still
town from north to south. Its popular in Tunisia.
northern section is fringed with
houses that were built in various Further Afield
European styles at the end of The town’s life centres around
the 19th century. The street’s Avenue Habib Bourguiba and
southern section is shady. the souks. The Museum of Arts
and Popular Traditions can be
P Souks found a short way to the east
Place Bechir Saoud, Avenue Abdel of the centre. To the north, a
Hamid el-Kadhi. little way along the beach, is
The town’s old quarter is a maze the Borj el-Kebir. Lying beyond
of narrow alleys and small shops Fish auction at the souk this is the harbour.
In its design, the fortress VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

combined defensive elements
with religious features and was Practical Information
the most important part of the Road map D5. * 63,000.
island’s defence system. In the n (75) 622 666.
16th century the famous pirate ( Mon, Thu.
Dragut reinforced its walls and Transport
extended the entire structure. k
P The Monument of Skulls

Situated between the harbour Harbour
and Borj el-Kebir is a small Houmt Souk’s small harbour
obelisk. The site was formerly looks its best at sunset, when
Stone bridge leading to Borj el-Kebir occupied by a gruesome the fishermen return with their
11-m-high (36-ft) pyramid day’s catch. The local fish
E Museum of Arts and of human skulls placed here include tuna, gilthead and
Popular Traditions by Dragut following a massacre shrimp. In winter, fishermen
Tel (75) 650 540. of Spanish Christians in 1560. use clay pots to catch squid
Open 9am–7pm Sat–Thu. The pyramid stood here until and octopus. The harbour is
Occupying the Zaouia of Sidi 1848, when the human located at the end of Rue du
Zitouni, this modest museum remains were buried at the Port, which is an extension of
has a collection of traditional local cemetery. Avenue Bourguiba.
costumes and other items illus-
trating various aspects of the
customs of Djerba’s population.
P Borj el-Kebir
Open Apr–mid-Sep: 8am–noon &
3–7pm; mid-Sep–Mar: 9am–6pm
Closed Mon. ( Mon & Thu.
This fort stands on the seafront.
Its foundations date back to
Roman times, but the first
fortress on the island was
built by the king of Sicily,
Roger de Lluria, in 1289. It was
reinforced in the 14th century. Fishing boats moored at Houmt Souk
Houmt Souk
1 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
Harbour Borj el-Kebir,
2 Souks AR AF Monument of Skulls
N CH Museum of Arts
RUE IB RU
3 Mosque of the Strangers E AM EUR and Popular
2 IB TH Traditions
4 Zaouia of Sidi Brahim M HAB
A V.
IBA
A
DHI
RS
ANI
5 Place Hedi Chaker

EL KA
RGU
ERJ
Mosque of
ED F
6 Mosque of the Turks STAP H A the Turks

MID
A V. H A B I B B O U
U
R U E G HAZI M
R . M O HAM M
A
LH
Y
DE
RUE MONCEF BE
AB
AV.
TE Zaouia of
BIZ E R
RU E DE Sidi Brahim Mosque of the
PLACE
Strangers
SIDIABDEL Place
KADER Hedi Chaker PLACE
SIDI BRAHIM
Parc
PLACE Bah Bah
MONGI E 20 MARS
BALI RU
HI
Airport
AD
6 km (4 miles)
L-K
DE
EL GHORB ÉE
A
U
MI
PLACE
R UE MOSQ
HA
FARHAT
HACHED SOUKS
EL
D
AB
0 metres 200 PLACE

AV.
BECHIR
0 yards 200 SAOUD
Bus and Louage Station

200 metres (220 yards)

2 El-Ghriba
Road map D5.
Open Sun–Fri 9:30am–5pm.
The country’s most famous

synagogue is El-Ghriba, which is
a short way south of Hara Sghira.
This is the oldest site of a syna-
gogue in the world and dates
back to 586 BC; the present
structure was built in the 20th
century. It is an important place
of pilgrimage for Jews from all
over North Africa, especially The interior of the El-Ghriba synagogue
during the Passover festival.
Although relations between principal book of the Kabbala – being in a district of Jerusalem
Muslims and Jews are generally and symbolize the 12 tribes of rather than in a Tunisian village.
good on the island, in 2002 Israel. The interior is decorated The two villages have a number
El-Ghriba was subject to a terror- with rich fabrics, woodcarvings of synagogues. Some bear stern
ist attack which killed 21 people and ceramic tiles. It houses many notices: “If you talk in the
and damaged part of the interior. items donated by pilgrims from synagogue, where do you pray?”
Increased security since then all over the world. In order to The island’s Jewish community
means that you will need your maintain the high status of the is ultra-orthodox and celebrates
passport if you wish to visit. synagogue, the Rabbi of Djerba the Sabbath and other holy days
The prayer hall’s 12 windows decreed it to be the only place as well as observing religious
allude to the Zohar – the on the island where religious rituals. At a son’s circumcision, a
scrolls are to be kept. Particularly red blanket is hung on the door,
striking elements of the interior inviting everyone to come and
Fortified Mosques furnishings include a beautiful witness the ceremony.
Torah cabinet and Hanukkah
lamps made of wood and silver.
El-Ghriba (“the miracle”) is 3 El-May
said to have been founded on Road map D5.
the spot where a holy stone fell
from heaven. A mysterious This village lies at the centre
woman arrived at the same of Djerba and is 9 km (6 miles)
time to oversee construction. south of Houmt Souk. It used to
Djerba’s Jewish community separate the eastern part of the
The nave of an underground mosque is concentrated mainly in two island, inhabited by the Ibadites,
Besides being important villages – Hara Sghira (Er Riadh) from its western part, populated
spiritual centres, Djerba’s and Hara Kebira (Es Souani). At by the Wahbis. The Ibadites (a
mosques were also military first glance these two villages moderate faction of Kharijism)
defence establishments. Their (which are about 5 km/3 miles recognized man’s free will. The
thick walls provided shelter apart) are identical to any other Wahbis, who renounced all
from attacks, while their Tunisian village, with palm trees other factions of Islam,
minarets were used as watch- and white houses with distinc- proclaimed the necessity
towers. As well as fortress- tive blue doors and windows. It for jihad – holy war.
style minarets, the local is only when the streets fill with The 16th-century
population also built under- boys returning from school Mosque of Umm
ground mosques. It is likely wearing skull-caps, or when et-Turkia (closed
that these were used by the Sabbath candles are lit inside to non-Muslims)
Ibadites for secret prayer the houses, that visitors may was formerly
meetings. One such mosque – get the impression of also a fort.
Jama’a el-Baldawi – can be
found near the village of
Ajim. Its façade was built in
modern times. Underground
mosques are distinguished
by their austerity and
functionality. Ibadite doctrine
does not permit any
ornamentation within the
mosque, as this could distract
the faithful from prayer.
The mosque in El-May, at the centre of the island
the island, not far from the

coastal town of Aghir, which
marks the end of the tourist
zone. The village’s population
consists mainly of the
descendants of former slaves,
who were brought to Djerba
from Central Africa. Following
the abolition of slavery in 1846,
the majority of the island’s
black inhabitants chose to
stay. Some adopted the
surnames of families for whom
they worked. Today their
main occupation is agriculture,
as well as basket- and mat-
weaving. They are also
Ras Remel – a site of wintering birds and a weekend recreation spot renowned as outstanding
musicians and dancers.
4 Ras Remel sponge diving (see p176). The Unlike the centre of Djerba,
Road map D5.
MC116 road runs among palm which resembles one big
and olive groves. Fans of the garden, with palm, fig and olive
The Ras Remel peninsula in the first Star Wars film may want to groves as well as orange and
north of Djerba is just under search out the mosque that is apple orchards, Djerba’s west
10 km (6 miles) from Houmt 3 km (2 miles) up the coast coast is largely uninhabited. A
Souk, and is an ideal spot for towards Borj Jillij – this was dirt road runs from Ajim to Borj
day trips and picnics. Its main used as the exterior of Jillij, and there are
attractions are the wintering Obi-Wan Kenobi’s house. traditional Djerban
flocks of pink flamingoes that The small village houses and small
migrate here from southern of Mahboubine lies in fields scattered here
France and Spain, joining the the eastern part of and there. The coast-
fledglings who spend the the island, 3 km line is rocky and not
entire year here. The waters (2 miles) good for swimming,
surrounding Ras Remel are southwest of Midoun, and which means that there are
shallow and the muddy bottom is surrounded by green few tourists. The dirt roads
provides the birds with plenty fields and gardens. Its and lack of facilities, however,
of food. A short distance from El-Katib mosque is a copy make it popular with campers
the headland lies Flamingo of the Hagia Sophia in and cyclists who don’t mind
Island. Most hotels situated in Istanbul, and was built in putting up with a little
Houmt Souk’s tourist zone the 19th century by Ali hardship in order to get
organize trips to the island, el-Katib. The village of Ras Remel away from the bustle of
which are often combined Arku lies at the centre of flamingo the resort areas.
with lunch and swimming.
Environs Menzels
At the furthest northwestern Menzels are self-sufficient agricultural smallholdings. Although many
tip of the island is Borj Jillij, a have been abandoned, some remain in use. The internal area consists of
mere 3 km (2 miles) from Mellita a yard surrounded by white walls and buildings, which provide
airport. A lighthouse was first accommodation for people and domestic animals; the yard also
built here in the 16th century. contains a granary and a water cistern. The entire area is surrounded
This was replaced in the 18th by a garden and a palm grove. Menzels used to be interconnected
century by a fort, which is with a maze of roads to other menzels and the mosque. In this way,
once again being used as a news of approaching danger could be passed around instantly.
lighthouse. From here it is
possible to walk to Ajim along a
narrow and quiet country road.
Ajim – ancient Tipasa – is
situated 22 km (14 miles)
southwest of Houmt Souk.
Occupying the point closest to
the mainland it has regular ferry
links with Jorf (the ferry can be
busy, especially at weekends). A fortress-like menzel on Djerba
The village is also a centre for
5 Midoun
Road map D5. * 48,000. ( Fri.
Surrounded by orange and

palm groves, Midoun is Djerba’s
second town, after Houmt Souk.
Its population includes many
descendants of African slaves,
brought here from sub-Saharan
Africa. The Friday market attracts
crowds of people from all over
the island, as well as from nearby
mainland villages. Held at the
centre of the small medina, it Reconstructed dye-works in Guellala’s waxworks museum
sells ceramics, woodcarvings,
leather goods and olive oil. From Aghir it is not far to beys tax, which was paid in
The other local event – Ras Taguerness, which is kind, in the form of jars and pots
“Fantasia” – is staged every distinguished by a 54-m-tall that were used for storing food.
Tuesday in summer and includes (177-ft) lighthouse. Aghir is also The range of Djerba’s traditional
a mock wedding ceremony convenient for a visit to the ceramics includes amphora-like
accompanied by music and small village of Arku (see p185) jars, which are still used today.
folk dancing, as well as displays or for a walk along the beach Most of the production now
of horse and camel riding. to other complexes in Séguia centres on enamelled goods
The Parc Djerba Explore or Ras Lalla Hadria. Aghir’s sandy that are intended for visitors,
includes diverse attractions such beach has been divided into a however. There are about
as a crocodile farm and the Lalla public area and a number of 450 small pottery shops
Hadria Museum of Islamic art. private sections that belong to working in this area.
local hotels. Traditional Djerba ceramics
E Parc Djerba Explore are made of clay that is
Route Touristique de Midoun 353. excavated from mines up to
Tel (75) 745 277. Open 9am–6pm
7 Guellala 80 m (262 ft) deep. It is dried for
daily (Jun–Sep: to 8pm). & Road map D5. two to three days and then
∑ djerbaexplore.com/eng mixed with water. The products
Guellala, the ancient town are left out to dry for a further
of Haribus (meaning a “pot”), 60 days, and only after that are
owes its name to the skill of the they fired for four days in kilns,
local potters, who mastered the which are half-buried in soil.
potter’s wheel several thousand Guellala’s museum is a little
years ago. The village lies on the way north of the village on
south coast of Djerba and is the the road to Cedouikech. The
only place on the island where creative displays, using waxwork
the Berber language is spoken. tableaux, conjure up scenes of
Since ancient times this was traditional Tunisian life such as a
the island’s main pottery centre. shepherd with his flock or a
Djerba was for centuries the weaver at work.
sole manufacturer of ceramics
Mosque and fountain in front of the in Tunisia, and its products were E Guellala Museum of
town hall, Midoun famous throughout the Saharan Popular Traditions
region. Even as late as the 19th Tel (75) 761 114. Open 8am–6pm
century the island paid the (until 8pm in summer). &
6 Aghir
Road map E5.
The hotel zone that starts about

8 km (5 miles) east of Houmt
Souk stretches up to the village
of Aghir, on the eastern side of
the island, which has been
transformed into a hotel resort.
Even so, as well as the souvenirs
sold by local shops it is possible
to buy everyday groceries here.
There is a regular bus service
to Houmt Souk and Midoun. Ceramic workshop and retailer, Guellala
Djerba’s Jewish Community

There are fewer than 1,000 Jews living in Djerba. According to legend, a group of Jewish
clerics arrived on the island following the fall of Jerusalem in 586 BC. They brought with
them a door from the destroyed Jewish temple and included it in the new El-Ghriba
synagogue. From Djerba, Jewish colonies sprang up across Tunisia and by the 2nd
century AD Tunisia was the home of the majority of North African Jews. Many Jews
worked as jewellers and established Djerba’s reputation as a commercial centre. During
the 19th century Jews here were forced to wear distinctive black clothes to mark them
out and anti-Jewish discrimination only lessened with the arrival of the French in 1881.
Many Jews left Djerba for a new life in Israel and France in the 1950s and 1960s.
El-Ghriba is the most important

synagogue on the island and is
open to foreign visitors. It is
closed only on the Sabbath,
when it is used by the Jewish
islanders for services.
Lag Ba’omer is a major festival

and an occasion when several
thousand Jews from
all over the world
congregate in Djerba.
The holiday celebrates
the 33rd day of Omer,
a period of abstention
and mourning,
that is counted
from Passover. Library – this is the place for
studying the Torah (Jewish
holy book). El-Ghriba has one
Pilgrimage – El-Ghriba of the oldest Torahs in the
(the miracle) is an world and is a centre of
important site of Jewish study.
pilgrimage for Jews from
all over North Africa.
Sabbath services take place once a week,

beginning at sunset on Friday evening and
continuing until sunset on Saturday, when
Djerban synagogues fill with the faithful.
8 Zarzis into ruin, as the villagers store

their grain in modern silos on
Road map E5. * 11,000. @.
the outskirts of the towns.
Zarzis is a large town and Nevertheless, there are still
is located 20 km (12 miles) many well-preserved ksour in
southeast of Djerba. In the neighbouring area. The
geographical terms this area best way to get to them is by
belongs to the Jaffara Plains car (see pp200–201).
that stretch between Gabès
and the Libyan border. Since Environs
the 7th century this region has A large ghorfa complex can
been inhabited by Arab nomads be seen in Metameur, 6 km
and a population that led a (4 miles) west of Medenine. The
semi-nomadic lifestyle. village inhabitants are semi-
Zarzis is surrounded by nomadic. Some of them are
vast olive and palm groves, descended from Sidi Ahmed
with about 700,000 olive trees ben Adjel, a holy man who
and 110,000 date palms. The founded the village in the
town itself was built in the 13th century. The best time to
19th century by the French, Beach in Zarzis’s tourist zone visit Metameur is on Friday,
who established their garrison when the nomads leave their
here. The tourist zone has fine which goods were brought pastures and gather here for
sandy beaches and starts 4 km from the entire southern region, their Friday prayers. The most
(2 miles) outside town. The it became the administrative important building in town is
zone stretches for about 8 km centre of southern Tunisia. the 600-year-old ksar, which
(5 miles) along the coast. It is Initially Medenine consisted has three storeys of ghorfas
becoming increasingly of a large ksar, which in built around three courtyards.
important as one of Tunisia’s total had over 6,000 ghorfas From Metameur a road
tourist regions. (rooms). The nomads used them (MC 104) leads to Toujane, a
for storing valuables, mainly small half-deserted village
corn, seed and vegetables, below the ruins of a kasbah.
9 Medenine but they also left in them Its flat roofs, made of olive
Road map E6. * 18,000. @.
articles that were not needed wood, resemble terraces.
on the journey. Some 80 km (50 miles)
This is an excellent base from Each family had its own southeast of Medenine is the
which to explore the outlying ghorfa. During the 1960s most small town of Ben Guerdane,
villages. The town, which is split of the ghorfas were demolished. which has 3,000 inhabitants.
into two by a riverbed (the Arab Today the handful of remaining Every Friday there is a market
word “medenijin” means “two ghorfas have been turned into here. As with Zarzis and
towns”), was once an important tourist souvenir shops. Medenine, it was founded
stopping point for caravans. Such ksour (plural of ksar) are by the French in the late
During the French Protectorate symbols of an old way of life, 19th century. From here it is
it housed a military garrison. although they are increasingly only 32 km (20 miles) to the
As the main market town, to being abandoned and falling Libyan border.
Souvenir shop in a ghorfa in the centre of Medenine

A palm-fringed sandy beach in Zarzis
Djerba’s Beaches
Djerba’s beautiful beaches stretch along the northeast coast
of the island, all the way from Ras Remel to Ras Taguerness.
However, access to them is often restricted by a virtually
unbroken line of hotels. There are some attractive beaches
on the east coast, in the region of Aghir. The less-frequented
beaches on the island can be found around Ras Remel.
1 Ras Remel
This beach, lying 2 Bravo Club
at the tip of the Most hotels have their own
headland, is often stretch of beach, with
deserted and can umbrellas, loungers and
only be reached by other facilities, including
car over unmetalled paragliding and water
roads. It is best to bicycles for the sole
travel with a guide use of guests.
to avoid getting lost.
Ras Remel
3 Beach Traders
Vendors can often be seen roaming
the tourist zone beaches. They offer
drinks, ice cream and fruit and also
sell beach toys and souvenirs.
Ras Taguerness
Midoun
4 Sport
Banana rides, sailing and a
variety of other attractions Mahboubine
are available on the tourist
zone beaches.
0 km 1
0 miles 1
6 Dar Djerba
The gardens and
terraces of this large
5 Beach Rides hotel complex, which
The most popular local activities has bars, restaurants and
include camel rides along the beach. nightly entertainment,
On some parts of the beach horse lead directly to the
riding is also available. sandy beach.
For hotels and restaurants see pp256–7 and pp276–7 For keys to symbols see back flap
0 Around the Gulf of Bou Grara

A journey around the Gulf of Bou Grara reveals just
how diverse and attractive this section of the coastline
is. As well as ancient ruins, picturesque floodplains and
golden beaches, there are high rugged cliffs, a modern
tourist zone and hundreds of acres planted with olive
and orange trees. It is also worth venturing a little
further to visit the exotic bazaar in Ben Guerdane, 1 El-Kantara
which sells a variety of Libyan-made goods. This is the starting point
for the causeway leading
to Djerba. It provides a
lovely panoramic view
of the island.
J
Gabès
8 Jorf
Visitors have to pass Jorf when travelling
to Djerba from the direction of Gabès.
Every quarter of an hour or so the only
Gabès
ferry to the island leaves from here.
J
7 Bou Grara
This tiny fishing village would not have ar
Sm
much to recommend it were it not for O.
Medenine
the magnificent scenery, which includes
a high shoreline and sandy beaches.
Ben Guerdane
Medenine
A small town, 33 km
(20 miles) from the
border with Libya, Ben
Guerdane has a good
market where almost
anything can be bought,
though not always at a
low price. The market is
used mainly by Tunisians.
Along the road to Ben 6 Gightis
Guerdane are small This ancient village, on the shore
petrol stations, which of the bay, was founded by the
also sell inexpensive Phoenicians. The existing ruins
Rug stall at Ben Guerdane Libyan jewellery. represent a later period, dating
from the 2nd century AD.

2 Cap Zarzis
Alongside tourism, the main source Tips for Drivers
of income for the region is olives. Length: 80 km (50 miles).
Thousands of trees, planted in Stopping-off points: Overnight
straight rows, cast shadows on the accommodation can only be
roads that criss-cross the island. found in Zarzis’s tourist zone,
though there should be no
problem with finding a modest
restaurant in any of the places
along the route.
Houmt Souk 3 Zarzis

The modern hotel zone, built to
the east of the C117 road, has a
long beach. Hotels stand hidden
amid lush greenery that reaches
right down to the sea, offering
some of the area’s best swimming.
J
Hassi Jerbi
Sidi Chammakh
Ksar
Ezzaouia
4 Sebkhet el-Mellah
The seaside floodplains can
Mouansa be seen from the road leading
to Ben Guerdane. Sebkhas
(salt-encrusted mudflats) are
rich in birdlife, especially wading
birds such as spoonbills.
5 Gulf of Bou Grara

The gulf, situated south of
Djerba, has magnificent views
of the mudflats and inland sea
but is not a tourist zone since
it does not have any beaches.
The local people earn their
living mainly from fishing.
0 kilometres 4
0 miles 4
Ben Guerdane
Sebkhet
Key
Bou Jemel
Suggested route
Scenic route
Other road
Seasonal river
Footpath

SOUTHERN TUNISIA
Some of the country’s most interesting sights are to be found in
this part of Tunisia. Oases and ancient ksour; a sea of golden sand
and green palm groves; troglodyte houses; Bedouin bread baked
on the scorching sand; modern musicals performed in the desert
and the largest salt lake in Africa – all these make a visit to southern
Tunisia a truly unique experience.
Southern Tunisia lures visitors with the and dates can be picked ripe from the
sheer diversity of its landscape. It holds tree. Some visitors choose to spend
special appeal for holiday-makers who several days touring the desert on camel-
simply wish to relax on the beaches of back. Others prefer to relax in ancient
the Sahel but is also increasingly popular Berber villages or lose themselves in
with adventure-seekers. Only a small meditation amid the ancient mosques of
section of the Sahara – the world’s largest Sufi Nefta.
desert, shared by 11 African countries – The Tunisian section of the Sahara
belongs to Tunisia. Nevertheless, in view comprises three main types of desert:
of its relative safety, transport facilities and the rocky hamada; the pebbly serir and
tourist infrastructure, it is this section of the sandy erg. The last of these is the
the Sahara that is most easily accessible. most picturesque and occupies the
Here, visitors can journey along the eastern end of the Great Eastern Erg.
routes of former trade-caravans or Its most impressive dunes can be seen
choose to follow in the footsteps of Star around Ksar Ghilane.
Wars director George Lucas. Nights can During the summer, this region can
be spent in Bedouin tents, remote become unbearably hot. For this
mountain oases or luxury hotels that reason, spring and autumn are the
resemble Oriental palaces. Pomegranates best times to visit.
The main courtyard of Ksar Ouled Soltane

A camel caravan among the sand dunes of the southern Tunisian desert
MIDÈS
Exploring Southern Tunisia TAMERZA
CHEBIKA
With so much choice, it could be difficult Gafsa
to decide what to see in southern Tunisia.
Visitors keen on ancient ruins will find little of TOZEUR
interest here, but those who seek spectacular,
breathtaking scenery cannot fail to be TOZEUR DO
UZ
enchanted with the region, which includes NEFTA TO Bechri
TO
ancient mountain oases, the shifting colours of ZE
Hazoua CH UR
Chott el-Jerid, and the green oases of Nefta – OT
El-Oued T EL-J
the cradle of Tunisian Sufism. Ksar Ouled ERID
Soltane, perched on top of a mountain, has
Bir Hadj Amor
some extremely well-preserved ghorfas. Most
impressive of all, perhaps, is the Sahara Desert,
which can be admired while perched on a El Faouar
camel’s back during an organized trek into Matrouha Redjim
the dunes, or explored on foot with a guide. Maatoug
Key
Major road
Other road
Track
Scenic road
Railway
Regional border
Salt lake
Chott el-Jerid – a seasonal salt lake
Sights at a Glance
1 Ksar Haddada
2 Tataouine
3 Ksar Ouled Soltane
4 Remada
5 Ksar Ghilane
6 Douz
7 The Sahara pp204–205
9 Chott el-Jerid
0 Tozeur
q Nefta
w Chebika
e Tamerza
r Midès
Trips
8 Douz to Tozeur pp210–11 Ksar Ouled Soltane – the best-known ksar
SOUTHERN TUNISIA 197
Chott
el-Fejaj
Kebili Gabès
Camel-train waiting for tourists in front of a Douz hotel, on the edge

of the Sahara Desert
DOUZ
Medenine
KEBILI Ben
KSAR
Guerdane
HADDADA
KSAR GHILANE Kirchaou
Chenini TATAOUINE
Douiret KSAR OULED

SOLTANE
T H
Bir Amor
Kamour
E
Bir Aouine
Borj Machahed
Salah
REMADA
S A
Borj
Bourguiba Kambout
H A
TATA O U I N E Dehiba
R A
Borj
Jenein
El Borma
0 kilometres 30
Bir Zar 0 miles 30
Getting There
The Tunisian Sahara is skirted by roads
on its northern and eastern sides. Douz –
Tiaret the northern gate of the Sahara – can be
reached from Gabès via the P16, or from the
direction of the mountain oases via the
causeway that runs across Chott el-Jerid.
From here on, visitors can explore the
Sahara only with a guide. To reach Ksar
Ghilane turn west from the P19. Finding this,
the most popular oasis, is no easy task, since
during high winds the roads become
Bir Pastor
covered in sand. The P19 road running from
Medenine ends in the south at Remada.
planet of Tatooine. Some 150

million years ago this area was
inhabited by dinosaurs before
being flooded by the sea.
Mankind has been forced to
adapt to the barren land and
arid climate. To this day, the
Berbers show great respect for
the natural environment. Berber
women occupy themselves
with handicrafts, weaving rugs
and carpets and sewing warm
camel-wool cloaks. The men
produce shoes called balgha
which have flattened toe-ends.
Tataouine was founded in
1892 by the French and is today
A maze of alleys in Ksar Haddada a major administration centre of
this region. It is known for its
1 Ksar Haddada 2 Tataouine hotels which are distinguished
by their interesting architectural
northwest of Tataouine. south of Gabès. * 7,000. n ONTT: style and locations, and for its
Avenue Habib Bourguiba, (75) 850 colourful markets selling fruit,
The main point of interest of 686. _ International Saharan Ksour olives and Berber fabrics. There
this small village is its superbly Festival (Mar–Apr); Festival of the is also a weekly livestock
restored ksar, which is one of Olives (Jan). ( Mon, Thu. market during the early part
the most striking complexes of summer which is popular
of former fortress-granaries to Variously known as the “gateway with tribespeople from the
be found in southern Tunisia. to the Sahara” and the “mouth outlying villages.
It stands at the very centre of of the springs” (from the Berber Apart from the hotels and
the village, in close proximity “foum tataouine”), this is markets, Tataouine has little
to the mosque, which is across Tunisia’s southernmost tourist tourist appeal though it does
the road. base. It is situated 50 km provide a very convenient
A large notice in front of (31 miles) from the Mediterr- base for exploring the local
the main gate informs visitors anean coast, along the popular ksour, such as Ksar Haddada
that in 1997 George Lucas tourist trail that links Djerba (29 km/18 miles), Ksar Ouled
used this place as a location with Matmata and Douz with Soltane (20 km/12 miles), and
for the Star Wars prequel, the Saharan oasis of Ksar Ghilane. Remada (78 km/48 miles). The
The Phantom Menace. Some fans of Star Wars may also nearest one is Ksar Megabla –
It is worth diving deeper realize that Tataouine provided only 2 km (1 mile) from the
into the maze of stairways, the name for Luke Skywalker’s centre of Tataouine (in the
terraces and small courtyards mythical and wind-blown home direction of Remada). Though
and peeping into some of the this former fortified village
granary niches known as has been largely destroyed,
ghorfas. These were once used it does offer a lovely view
to store food by the local of the surrounding area.
Haddada and Hamdoun tribes, The local delicacy is the
and by two other tribes which sweet honey-and-almond
probably arrived here from bread (kab el-ghazal) baked
Libyan and Moroccan territories. in the shape of a gazelle horn.
Today, a section of the ksar The annual Saharan Ksour
has been converted into a small Festival (a five-day event at the
hotel, which combines the end of March/beginning of
unique atmosphere of an ancient April) provides an opportunity
ksar with a tinge of Hollywood. to witness camel races and
The hotel’s kitchen offers a Berber wedding ceremonies
simple menu; the rooms, and to sample some of the
although equipped with delicious local cuisine.
bathrooms, are fairly austere. Tataouine is also only 18 km
Right by the entrance to the (11 miles) from Chenini, a
ksar is a pleasant little café Berber village occupying a
where you can enjoy a glass of scenic position on a high hill,
mint tea along with a puff on a Traditional flutes on sale at which is famous for its ancient
hookah, should you want it. Tataouine’s market cave dwellings.
3 Ksar Ouled
Soltane
Road map D6.
Ksar Ouled Soltane is the most
interesting and best-preserved
fortified village in Tunisia, and
is situated 20 km (12 miles)
south of Tataouine. It is still
used to store grain and olives
and is inhabited by the
Ouled Chehida tribesmen
(in between their regular
migration to pasturelands to
tend their sheep, goats and
camels). Surrounded by an
additional set of defensive
walls, the complex consists of
over 300 granaries – ghorfas.
Rising up to four storeys, they
are set round two courtyards
that are linked by a narrow
corridor made of palm wood.
The older courtyard dates
from the 15th century; the
newer one was built in 1881.
The place is worth visiting
particularly on Friday, after Steep stairs leading to upper floors in Ksar Ouled Soltane
the main Muslim prayer
session, to witness the lively 4 Remada Place de l’Indépendance is
discussions between the Road map D6.
a former abattoir building,
Ouled Chehida tribesmen. covered with 15 small domes.
The larger of the two ksar This small oasis lies 50 km This is a border zone, and any
courtyards is also sometimes (31 miles) from the Libyan trip to the desert requires
used as a venue for folk shows, border. A smallish Roman fort special permission from the
especially during the Ksour once stood here. Under the military authorities.
Festival. The traditional Berber French Protectorate, the town Borj Bourguiba, 41 km
music and dancing of the once again became a military (25 miles) southwest of Remada,
ancient community are in base. Due to its close proximity is where the first president
perfect harmony with the to Libya, Remada has remained of Tunisia, Habib Bourguiba,
architecture of this beautifully a garrison town. The only eye- was kept prisoner during the
restored fortified village. catching feature in the central early 1950s.
Star Wars
George Lucas – the creator of the Star Wars films – was fascinated by the landscape of
southern Tunisia and used many of its most exotic sights and interiors as locations for his
epic space adventures. Luke Skywalker’s home at the beginning of the first Star Wars movie
was actually the interior of the Sidi Driss Hotel in Matmata for instance, while the natural
features of Ksar Haddada were used to conjure up slave quarters in The Phantom Menace.
The worldwide success of Star Wars
helped to promote many of Tunisia’s
tourist attractions and a percentage
of the revenue obtained from the
sale of tickets when the first film
was released in 1977 went to the
National Solidarity Fund that helps
the poorest regions of the country
in their fight against the desert.
Newly established tourist agencies
have since begun to offer trips that
follow in the footsteps of George
Lucas – there are even some local Star Wars
Remaining fragments of the Star Wars film set road signs that point to Star Wars sites. robot
The Ksar
This centuries-old feature of the Tunisian landscape is a
strongly fortified Berber village that is difficult to access.
Originally the word ksar (or ksour in the plural) meant a
fortified granary with ghorfas (rooms), which were placed
cylindrically around an inner courtyard with a well-concealed
entrance. Later on, ghorfas came to be used as dwelling
places for local tribes. Ksar Ouled Soltane is considered Berber fortified villages and
to be Tunisia’s best-preserved fortified village, and is still granaries have for centuries
used by the Ouled Chehida tribe as a home and granary. been part of the everyday life
of people in southern Tunisia.
Courtyards were a feature

of every ksar. Some larger
ksour had more than one
courtyard, linked with a
special passage. Surrounded
by ghorfas, courtyards were
the main scene of Berber
social life.
Stairs provided internal

connections within a
ksar. This was
particularly important
since ghorfas were The well in a
usually two to four ksar’s courtyard
storeys high. was surrounded
by green plants.
Ksar Ouled Soltane

This is one of the most
southerly ksour and has
been restored to its original
state. The ksar is still
inhabited by a Berber tribe.
External walls ensured the safety of the inhabitants and protected The entrance to it is from
their granaries. The ghorfas facing the courtyard also provided a the plateau, through a
natural defence with no access via their back walls. For added small courtyard. The ksar
security, an additional wall was sometimes added. is at its best at sunset.

Entrance gate – a
ksar, regardless of its
size, had only one
gate. Such a layout
ensured security,
since when danger
threatened, a
concentrated defence
was possible.
Small courtyard
A ghorfa – a room –
is the basic element
of every ksar. It once
served as storage
space for grain,
olives and other
agricultural produce.
Interiors of
the ghorfas,
originally built
as granaries,
eventually
became homes. In the
summer they sheltered people
against the scorching sun as they
remained pleasantly cool.
Visiting a Ksar
Tunisia’s ksour Medenine
were made Ksar Jedid
famous by Ksar Hallouf
Ksar Kourikiria
film-makers,
particularly Ksar Jouama
Ksar Kerachfa
the creators
of Star Wars.
Many of them can Ksar Haddada
be visited and ksour
are among the country’s Ksar el-Ferich
main tourist attractions. Ksar

Among the best examples Ksar Jellidet Cherchara
Tataouine
are Ksar Haddada (see p198) Ksar Ouled
Ksar Ouled Debbab Ksar Guetoufa Aoun
and Ksar Ouled Soltane
Ksar Mehiria
(p199). Some, such as Ksar Ksar Beni Barka Ksar Tamelest Ksar Morra
Ghilane (p202), make Ksar Bou Ziri Ksar Ouled Soltane
wonderful bases for
exploring the desert. Ksar Remtha Ksar Jedid
0 km 15
Ksar Retbet
0 miles 15
el-Krachaoua

6 Douz
southwest of Tozeur. * 7,000.
n ONTT: Avenue Abdou Kacem
Ecchabi, (75) 470 351. _ International
Festival of the Sahara (Nov–Dec).
( Thu. ∑ festivaldouz.org.tn
Nicknamed “the gateway to the

Sahara”, this small town lies on
the edge of the Great Eastern
Erg that stretches westwards,
all the way to Morocco. The
oasis, which is literally on the
verge of the vast desert dunes,
Camels resting at a desert watering place is a major springboard for
exploring the Sahara. This is
5 Ksar Ghilane swaying palm trees under where the asphalt road ends
Road map C6.
starry skies, is a unique and any further journey
experience. The pool is southwards can be made only
Surrounded by the dunes of surrounded by small cafés by a four-wheel-drive vehicle
the Great Eastern Erg, this and restaurants where (approximately seven hours to
small Saharan oasis is 147 km souvenirs can be purchased, Ksar Ghilane) or on camelback
(91 miles) southeast of Douz such as a desert rose or a (five days to Ksar Ghilane).
and 100 km (62 miles) west of warm woollen cloak with a A good time to visit is during
Chenini. The Romans built a hood – the traditional the International Festival of the
frontier fort on this desolate clothing of the desert people. Sahara, normally in November
spot and the ruins of a citadel or December. The festival,
can still be seen close by. The which has been taking place
only way to get to Ksar Ghilane for over 30 years, is an
is by four-wheel-drive car or by opportunity to witness the
camel. It is well worth stopping ceremonies that have marked
here for a few days to see the the pace of life of the local
shifting reds, golds and yellows nomadic tribes. These include
of the desert sand. wedding ceremonies, sheep-
Accommodation is not a shearing, duels, hunting
problem. Tourist camps with and camel races.
Bedouin tents are furnished From Douz, groups can
with camp beds and blankets. ride scooters over the dunes.
Some campsites have canteens Sweet dates can be bought
offering a limited menu; some here, as well as Berber jewellery
even have showers (though and leather goods. The tourist
these are not always working). zone starts a short way from
For more fastidious visitors there Market stall selling locally made footwear the centre, on the edge of
is a luxury campsite with air- in Douz the dunes.
conditioned Bedouin-style tents,
complete with refrigerators and
satellite TV. Some meals are Tunisian Condiments
served with genuine Bedouin Harissa – a traditional Berber paste made with hot dried red pepper,
bread – a large flat cake that is garlic, spices and olive oil – appears on every Tunisian table and is
tossed into fire embers. After eaten with almost everything. It is thought to strengthen the
ten minutes it is turned over appetite and invigorate and disinfect the body – including the
and left for a while longer. Bread respiratory tract.
baked this way is delicious. Harissa is sometimes
One special attraction of served with small
Ksar Ghilane is bathing in the pieces of tuna and
palm-fringed pool that is fed olives. Other herbs
by the waters of a natural hot and spices used in Tun-
sulphur spring. In the winter, isian cuisine include
fresh and
when the night temperature
dried mint leaves,
drops to just a few degrees
coriander, aniseed,
above freezing (from over saffron, cumin, cinna-
20° C/68° F during the day), Multicoloured herbs and spices mon and caraway.
bathing in the desert, amid
Caravans
In ancient times groups of merchants travelled along the Silk Road that linked China with
the West. During the Middle Ages such caravans provided the only safe way of travelling
across North Africa and were the sole means of transporting goods and merchants,
troops and pilgrims. Tunisia lay at the crossroads of major caravan routes to the far
corners of the African continent. Caravans also used mules and donkeys, but in the
harsh desert environment the camel proved to be the most effective. As well as trade,
caravans helped the spread of Islam, the scriptures and the written language. Many
of the roads that were once travelled by caravans have now become highways. It is
possible, however, to join an adventure caravan and travel over the desert dunes.
Camels have been

domesticated for thousands
of years. They can drink 130
litres (28.6 gallons) of water
at a time and go for up to
two weeks without drinking
again. Much of the camel’s
fat is in its hump, enabling
it to lose heat more easily.
The Arabic language has
over one hundred terms
to describe camels.
Special contraptions facilitate travel

on camelback, while at the same
time protecting the rider against
sun and sand. The most difficult
operations are mounting
and dismounting. Riders
must hold on tight to the
horn of the saddle that is
placed in front of the hump.
Oases and deep

wells hidden among
the desert sands
ensured a caravan’s
survival. Any camel
driver is able to lead Present-day caravans still travel
the caravan to an over the sands of the desert.
oasis or a well, Their nomadic owners are able
without needing to recognize their camels just
to refer to a map. from the camel’s footprints.
Visitors may go for short trips or embark

on camel treks lasting several days
between oases and ksours, stopping at
night in ghorfas or pitched Bedouin tents.
Typical desert terrain near Gabès
7 The Sahara oases such as Chebika, Tamerza eastern end of the Great Eastern
Road map B6, C6, D6. and Midès. Erg, which runs all the way from
The Tunisian section of the Morocco. It starts south of Douz
The Sahara is the world’s largest Sahara features all three main and its most striking sand dunes
desert and occupies one-third of types of desert: the rocky can be seen in the vicinity of
the African continent (9,000,000 hamada; the pebbly serir and Ksar Ghilane. In the north they
sq km/ 3,474,000 sq miles). It the sandy erg. The erg, most are preceded by vast steppes
stretches from the west coast of frequently associated with the occasionally interspersed with
Africa to the Red Sea. Its area image of the Sahara portrayed sand dunes which are bordered
lies within 11 African states, one in films and literature, lies at the by vast, dry salt lakes. The
of them being Tunisia, which causeway that crosses the
controls only a small section of largest of these – Chott el-Jerid
the desert. However, in terms of – is the spot where mirages are
safety, transport facilities and most likely to occur.
tourist infrastructure this section Wildlife is scarce in the
of the Sahara is the most desert. Wild camels are rarely
accessible. It is also the patch encountered in Tunisia’s arid
of desert that most often areas; any that you might meet
features in the movies. will usually be part of someone’s
The image of a desert as an herd. The North African fox, its
ocean of sand, stretching off to ears pointing up like radar
the horizon, was created by aerials, can now be seen only in
fiction writers and film-makers zoos. At times, a gazelle may be
such as Bernardo Bertolucci in spotted. There is no shortage of
The Sheltering Sky. In reality the desert lizards, poisonous adders
desert is more often than not and scorpions. Here and there,
a stony plain – grey and dull – desert areas feature clumps of
or an arid land criss-crossed esparto grass, which is used to
with mountain ranges that are A palm-shaded oasis in the middle make paper and mats.
punctuated by mountain of the desert The driest areas of the Sahara
have no more than 25 mm
(0.985 inches) of annual rainfall.
Safety in the Sahara The oases are surrounded by a
The rule is: never travel alone in the desert, even when using a sea of sand. Every scrap of
four-wheel-drive jeep. There must be at least two cars, preferably greenery, every well or pasture,
driven by Tunisian drivers. Any excursion made by car or on once belonged to a clan or a
camelback must always be reported to the National Guard and tribe and was cherished, cared
may only be made with their permission (travel agents can usually for and fought over. Strangers
arrange these formalities). Excursions made on foot also have to were perceived as a threat and
be reported and are best made with a guide. It is essential to take as competition. Even the sa’alik
sunscreen products. Also useful are wraparound sunglasses, a – the knight errant of the desert,
down-filled sleeping bag, a groundsheet, a pair of loose trousers, the intractable outcast of
a large cotton headscarf that can cover the entire head and neck
various tribes – would join in
from sun and wind, and as much water as you can carry. High-sided
groups in order to survive. An
shoes will provide protection against scorpions.
expulsion from a community
meant death amid the sands.
Tribal awareness, although

not as vital as in the old days,
is still strong. The ties of blood
protected people and gave
them a feeling of security.
Several families descending
from a common ancestor
formed a clan. A group of
related clans formed a kahila – a
tribe. A tribe used to surround
the home of their chieftain with
a circle of tents – the dawwar –
creating something like a small,
sovereign autonomous state.
Family, tribes and the
association of tribes formed
the bedrock of Bedouin society. Camel train travelling across the desert
Warrior-sons and guards led
the caravans, procured marriage that left a woman in the proximity of the desert or
domestic animals and, in the the power of her husband, he the taste of Bedouin bread
course of plundering raids, nevertheless set out a number baked in the hot sand – your
defended the honour of their of rules aimed at protecting trip will also include the sight
clans and took women women. He made the woman of quirky cafés, built of old metal
captives. Their bravery the owner of her own dowry cans or palms, appearing
and courage ensured and regulated the unexpectedly over dune tops.
the clan’s safety legal position of
and prosperity. orphans, of DIRECTORY
Women were women aban-
regarded as the doned by their Trips to the Sahara
property of their husbands and of from Douz
families. They widows, granting to Douz Voyages
were expected all of them rights to at Place de l’Indépendance, Douz.
to be obedient least some portion Tel (75) 470 178/179.
and bear the of the estate. Fax (75) 470 315.
maximum possible Horses – a frequent sight on Time seems to ∑ douzvoyages.com
number of sons. the edges of the Sahara flow very slowly
Ghilane Travel Services
Their situation in the desert.
Avenue Taieb Mehiri 38, Douz.
changed for the better with Sand shifts from one dune
Tel (75) 470 692.
the arrival of Islam, for to another. Colours also shift: Fax (75) 470 682.
although Mohammed white, occasionally yellow ∑ ghilane.com
preserved the form of and golden-red mounds
move along, changing their Horizons Deserts
shape and position. Voyages
Though beautiful, the desert Rue el-Hanni 9, Douz.
can be extremely treacherous. Tel (75) 471 688/788.
Sand immobilizes wheels on Fax (75) 471 688.
∑ h.deserts@planet.tn
vehicles and hinders travellers’
∑ horizons-deserts.com
legs, while its minute grains find
their way into camera lenses, Libre Espace Voyages
even without a sandstorm. At Avenue Mohamed, Marzougi, Douz.
the same time the sand is so Tel (75) 470 620.
velvety that it can be rubbed Fax (75) 470 622.
against the cheek without ∑ contact@libre-espace-
causing a scratch. voyages.com
Tozeur, Nefta and Djerba all ∑ libre-espace-voyages.com
represent fairly convenient
starting points for forays into Mrazig Voyages
Avenue 7 Novembre,
the Sahara, but to truly make
BP 126, Douz.
the most of your desert adven-
Tel (75) 470 255.
ture, the best places to start Fax (75) 470 515.
are Douz, Zaafrane and Ksar ∑ mrazigvoyage.com
Ghilane. Here, the sense of
wonder will not be limited to
Sand dunes in the Sahara just sleeping in Bedouin tents,
Desert Oases
The oasis was once a haven for caravans and
lost travellers and was used by tribes who lived
in the desert. Even today, oases are a vital
lifeline for people who must survive in extreme
conditions. Desert oases have grown up around
natural springs, ground water and wells. The
typical desert oasis consists of cultivated plots Berber tents, put up specially for
of land shaded by palms and screened with visitors, are a popular way to
palm-frond fences. Some oases, such as Gabès experience life in the desert
and Douz, have grown into large towns. oases. Some luxury tents are
even air-conditioned.
A sophisticated
irrigation system is
indispensable to the life
of an oasis. It must
ensure an even
distribution of water.
In large oases, such
as Nefta and Tozeur,
water must be
collected from
hundreds
of sources.
The date harvest in

Tunisia is one of the
biggest in the world.
Dates are both
sweet and nutritious
and are an essential
part of the staple
diet of the oasis’s
inhabitants. Dates
and either milk or
water mark the end
of the Ramadan fast.
Arable fields
under palm
trees are
possible as a
result of
irrigation. Crops The Oasis
that can be
cultivated The modern oasis exists purely
include carrots thanks to human intervention. Irrigation
and semolina, systems make the most of natural water sources,
which is used to making it possible not only to water the camels,
make couscous. but also to grow plants.
Shaft craters collect Camels that live in Tunisia

valuable rainwater. have only one hump. The
oases provide them with
places of rest and shade,
where they can also top up
their stores of water.
Underground
springs also
supply the oasis
with water.
The pathways
that criss-cross
the oasis are not
only used for
transport, but
also mark out the
watered plots.
The locals travel
around on foot,
on camelback or
on donkeys.
Life in an oasis revolves around the tending

of crops and animals (camels, horses, sheep
and goats). The irrigation systems are vital and
require constant attention.
Figs, oranges and
pomegranates
ripen in the shade of
the palm trees.
Deep wells exploit

water held in rock or
soil layers far below
the surface. The wells
provide water for
oases and caravans –
and also now for
visitors. Although
there are no maps
marking such wells, Natural pools, fed by deep
every good camel underground springs and artificial
driver knows their reservoirs, provide oases with a
locations by heart. constant supply of water for bathing.
8 Douz to Tozeur
This is one of the most interesting routes in Tunisia and
crosses the Chott el-Jerid – a vast, glittering salt lake
that stretches as far as the eye can see. The route forms
an important section of a longer tourist trail that leads
from Tozeur (via Matmata) to Djerba. Until the mid-19th
century it was used to transport slaves to the vast slave
market in Kebili. The road is remarkably scenic, and it is
worth allocating extra time for the journey.
7 Chott el-Jerid
The contours of salt lakes as drawn
on most maps correspond with the
winter rains season. What is actually
seen by visitors is usually only the
dry bottom of the lake.
Tamerza
Gafsa
9 Causeway
Chott
This is where desert mirages are el-Gharsa El-Hamma El-Mahassen
most often seen in Tunisia. Some du Jerid
people imagine they see passing
caravans of camels, or even a
railway train.
8 Chott el-Fejej
This is a natural offshoot
Nefta of the Chott el-Jerid, and
forms a narrow corridor
running to the desert oasis
0 Degache of El-Hamma, near the
Oases such as Degache are shore of the Gulf of Gabès.
inhabited by descendants
of ancient nomadic tribes
who still travel with their
herds of camels, sheep and
goats in search of fresh
pastures. Life in this arid
land is only possible thanks
to the existence of oases.
Desert Rose
This is the most famous and least expensive souvenir
of a visit to southern Tunisia. Sometimes artificially
coloured (in shades of light green, blue and red) its
beauty nevertheless resides in its natural colour – grey
bordering on brown. It is usually
found under several metres of
sand. In chemical terms, it
is made of gypsum (crystals
of calcium sulphate) q Tozeur
that crystallizes from Tunisia’s “Hollywood” is the
underground water town of poets and of unusual
and takes on the form of yellow brick architecture.
an open rose flower. It is also a good base for trips
to the mountain oases, to
Desert rose – a symbol of the Sahara Nefta and to the dunes of
the Great Eastern Erg.
The mountain oasis of Chebika, near the border with Algeria

6 Bechri 5 Kebili
This 64-km-long
Tips for Drivers
Kebili is the main
(40-mile) causeway market town of Tour length: 61 km (100 miles)
crosses the Chott the Nefzaoua Stopping-off points: Hotels can
el-Jerid. It links oases (market day be found in Douz, Tozeur, Nefta
Bechri (near Kebili) is Tuesday). It is an and Bechri. A cup of coffee and a
with Kriz important oasis light meal are available anywhere,
(near Tozeur). along a former even on the causeway.
caravan route.
4 Blidet
This hill surrounded by
palm groves, on which the
village stands, is one of the
better places from which
visitors can admire the
panoramic view of the
Chott el-Jerid.
3 El-Faouar
El-Faouar – an oasis on the
southern shore of the Chott
el-Jerid – gives a foretaste of
the great adventure.
Souk-Lahad
2 Zaafrane
Along with nearby Douz and
Ksar Ghilane, Zaafrane is a
Tombar
major tourist centre from
Telmine
where classic camelback
expeditions to the desert
Bazma can be embarked upon.
1 Douz
Douz is the main springboard
Jemna for desert trips. Any further
journey south requires the
J
use of a four-wheel-drive
vehicle. Douz is also the
Touiba venue for the International
Matmata Festival of the Sahara.
0 kilometres 10
El-Faouar
le Nefzaoua 0 miles 10
Key
Es Sabria Suggested route
Scenic route
Other road

9 Chott el-Jerid
Road map B5.
One of Tunisia’s several salt lakes,

Chott el-Jerid was created by
tectonic movements of the
earth’s crust some 1.5 million
years ago. It is the largest of
the North African salt lakes
(51,280 sq km/19,794 sq miles)
and lies between the Gulf of
Gabès and the Algerian border.
For most of the year it is dry,
with only a thin layer of water
remaining here and there,
becoming an intriguing desert
“carpet” that consists of minute
salt crystals shimmering with
blue, white and pale-green
hues. The view of the lake at Museum courtyard in Tozeur
sunset is unforgettable, and
mirages are a common 0 Tozeur One Nights. This collection of
occurrence here. Road map B5. * 21,000. n Rue anonymous tales written over
The lake can be crossed on a Abdou El Kacem Chebbi, (76) 454 503. several centuries includes traces
64-km-long (40-mile) causeway ( Tue, Sun. _ Festival of the Oases of Indian, Persian, Egyptian,
that is open all year round. The (Nov–Dec). ∑ planet-oasis.com Greek, Mesopotamian and Arab
route links Kriz (near Tozeur), influences. In the Arabian Nights
with Bechri (near Kebili). It is Tozeur is a major town and grotto visitors can meet, among
best not to stray away from the tourist centre, and it has one of others, Ali Baba, Sinbad the
road, as the lake bed in this area the country’s most beautiful Sailor and Scheherazade. The
may be dangerous. oases containing a vast folk tales are accompanied
Halfway along the causeway palm grove. There are by descriptions of
there is a handful of cafés where thousands and everyday life.
souvenirs such as amethyst and thousands of palm A separate
desert rose stones (see p210) can trees here, as well museum on Rue de
be bought, and where there are as fig trees, Kairouan is devoted
also toilet facilities. A trip on the pomegranate trees, to local traditions and
causeway is one of the main and banana groves includes costumes
tourist attractions along the spread over 10 km Tozeur house used in circumcision
Douz-Tozeur route. (6 miles). The area is decoration ceremonies and a
fed by natural springs collection of door
that produce millions of litres knockers that produce a
of water a day. The town is variety of sounds (making it
also known for growing the possible to identify the caller).
best dates in Tunisia. They Tozeur also has a botanical
are translucent, sweet and garden and a zoo. The latter
juicy; nearby Nefta is also provides a rare chance to see
famous for them. some desert wildlife.
The oldest part of town is Planet Oasis is a vast cultural
Ouled el-Hadef, which dates centre near Tozeur. Its huge
from the 14th century and has stage, set on the Saharan sand,
a distinctive high wall made of has state-of-the-art laser effects
handmade bricks. The yellow to accompany musical shows
stones of Ouled el-Hadef’s and other entertainment. The
houses are arranged so that centre also claims “the largest
they form Koranic verses and Berber tent in the world”.
floral motifs.
On the outskirts of Tozeur is a E Dar Cheraït
private museum, Dar Cheraït, Rue Touristique, Avenue Abolkacem.
which is devoted to southern Tel (76) 452 100. Open 8am–midnight.
Tunisia’s history and everyday E Museum of Popular Arts
life. A separate section of the and Traditions
museum transports visitors to Rue de Kairouan.
Salt on the edge of Chott el-Jerid the realm of the Thousand and Open 8am–noon & 3–5pm.

q Nefta
Road map A5. 23 km (14 miles)
southwest of Tozeur. * 18,000. n
ONTT: Rue Abdou El Kacem Chebbi,
Tozeur, (76) 454 488. _ Festival of
the Dates (Nov–Dec). ( Thu.
The oasis town of Nefta is

Tunisia’s second holiest site
after Kairouan. It is situated
on the shores of the Chott
el-Jerid, near Tozeur. During
the Roman occupation it was
known as Aggasel Nepte; in the
16th century it became a centre
of Sufism (see below). At that
time Nefta had 100 mosques,
dozens of Islamic schools and a
zaouia. Today, it is frequently
visited by film-makers who come
for the unique scenery. It is worth
stopping here, even if only for
one night, to make a trip in a
horse and cart around the entire
oasis or to stroll along the narrow
alleys of Ouled ech-Cherif.
Ouled ech-Cherif is the Palm trees in La Corbeille gulley in Nefta
oldest part of Nefta and lies
in the western portion of shops and old men sit on mystic who founded one of the
the town. There are some street benches. With a bit of earliest Sufi brotherhoods. It
interesting streets and alleys to luck it may be possible to was his fame that turned Nefta
be explored here and many of strike up an acquaintance into a major spiritual centre of
the houses repay a second with a local, get invited to a the Islamic world. The reverence
glance. The doors and window typical Arab house and in its which many Muslims pay to Sidi
shutters have been built in a courtyard be treated to fresh Bou Ali is still strong today and
wide range of shapes and dates and camel milk. The row his mystical powers of healing,
colours and have intricate fix- of restored mosques towering passed on to his successors,
tures and door handles, some over La Corbeille – a deep, continue to attract people to
of which are in the shape of the palm-filled gulley – is well Nefta. The mausoleum is not
Hand of Fatima. worth a photograph. The open to non-Muslims.
The town wakes up after best views are to be had from The date plantations in the
siesta, two hours before sunset. the Café de la Corbeille. oasis belong to many private
At the foot of the ancient In the heart of Nefta’s oasis is owners. Some will invite visitors
mosques young boys play the mausoleum of Sidi Bou Ali, (for a small fee) to taste the
football, vendors open their a Moroccan-born 13th-century drinks made of palm juice, or
try a cigar wrapped in palm
leaves. Here, visitors can also
Sufism find one of the many oasis
Sufism is a branch of Islam springs or go for a stroll along
that originated in the Middle the shady country lane that
East in the late 8th to early 9th crosses the entire valley.
century and spread to Central
Asia and India. Followers of
Sufism attempt to arrive
at the Ultimate Truth through
the “shedding of the veil” –
discarding the shackles of
everyday reason and senses
that constrain us. Some of
these devotional practices,
such as walking on hot coals,
have led to Sufis being
Whirling dervishes: the best-known distrusted by other Muslims.
followers of Sufism Mosques towering over the oasis
in Nefta
room” (it can still be seen

behind the village’s only public
toilet). It contains a simple
timer, consisting of two large
jugs with handles, painted
yellow with a green stripe
(typical of Berber style). The
jugs were hung from a rope
and the water poured from
one jug into the other. Based
on the time it took for the
lower jug to fill, an attendant
would open and close appro-
priate gates within the irrigation
system, sending water to each
arable plot in turn.
e Tamerza
Road map A5. 65 km (40 miles)
Chebika – a mountain oasis shaded by palm trees northwest of Tozeur. * 1,500. _
Festival of the Mountain Oases (Mar).
w Chebika to take the Lézard Rouge train
Road map A5. 60 km (37 miles) route (see p220). Known as the “hanging balcony
northwest of Tozeur; 5 km (3 miles) Chebika is a small village, built overlooking the Sahara Desert”,
south of Tamerza. * 35,900. of stone and clay and clinging Tamerza (sometimes spelt
to the side of a mountain. It was “Tameghza”) is the largest of the
This is one of the three best- probably built on the site of an mountain oases and is the only
known Tunisian mountain earlier Roman outpost, Ad one that has a public transport
oases (along with Tamerza and Speculum. Following severe link with the outside world
Midès). All three villages are flooding in 1969, the old village (buses leave daily for Redeyef,
situated near Tozeur, close to was abandoned. Now the village Touzeur and Tunis). It is
the border with Algeria. As layout is almost the same as that renowned not only for its scenic
recently as the 19th century of nearby Tamerza. Small side views but also for the most
they were major stopping-off streets branch off the main road beautifully situated hotels in
points along one of the two that leads to the market. The Tunisia. The four-star Tamerza
main caravan routes that linked main point of interest in Chebika Palace towers majestically over
the east and west coasts of the is its picturesque spring featuring a large gorge (a dry riverbed),
African continent. During the a small palm grove and a facing the white houses and
years of the Roman Empire waterfall, which can be found
they were used as military a little way beyond the village.
forts where the legionnaires, The spring is fed by a series of
making use of high-rise sentry small underground mountain
posts, communicated with streams (and the network of
each other using mirrors. underground canals that feed
For centuries the villages the wells). This supply of water
produced only what they means that the otherwise barren
needed to feed their popu- land can produce apricots,
lations. This balance was upset peaches, pomegranates, citrus
when phosphate deposits fruit, bananas and olives.
were discovered nearby and Tobacco is grown in the
many people left their homes shade of the palm trees.
to work in the mines. This also According to a Tunisian
brought about changes in the proverb, the ultimate ruler
local customs and traditions as here is the rain, and in day-to-
agricultural production day life water is more precious
gradually diminished. Even than petrol. The reason the oasis
greater changes were caused flourishes is its sophisticated
by the onset of mass tourism. irrigation system. To ensure
Today, visitors travel in large local harmony, the system
numbers to this area, arriving must maintain an even distri-
by jeep for a day trip from bution of water to all plots.
Tozeur. This is also the To meet this need, Chebika
destination for those wishing once had a curious “hourglass Tamerza’s waterfall
domes of the old town standing

on the opposite side. Guest
hotels and terraces look out
onto magnificent scenery made
famous by the film The English
Patient (1996). Tamerza, like
Chebika, was abandoned
following floods in 1969. The old
village is now falling into ruin
but maintains the general
layout of an oasis, including the
main road running from east to
west and a labyrinth of narrow
alleys that branch off it,
climbing upwards.
Several marabouts (Islamic
mausoleums) are still main-
tained in the abandoned village.
The most interesting of these is
the mausoleum of Sidi Tuati,
which stands out clearly amid
the devastated houses. It
contains the holy man’s tomb
and rooms for pilgrims.
The present sanctuary is
supposed to have been formerly
occupied by a church. This claim Steep walls of the gorge surrounding Midès
was made by, among others,
the medieval Arab traveller and indicating the direction of prayer) r Midès
author Tidjani. His belief may be of this sanctuary has been Road map A4.
supported by the presence of incorrectly placed and does not
Christian churches which were point accurately towards Mecca, Midès is the smallest mountain
active in the Jerid region in the a rare thing in Islamic art. oasis in this area and is situated
14th century. Some of these The abandoned houses just a short walk from the
inspired the style of several and ruins of old Tamerza are Algerian border. The village
mosques built in this area, which increasingly visited by hikers is perched on the edge of a
clearly display the influence of and photographers, and are deep gorge (it flanks it on three
an 18th-century Italian style. most impressive when the sides), the red-soil floor of which
Nevertheless the building town becomes illuminated by is overgrown with lush green
materials are mainly local, the light of the setting sun. palm trees. The wavy vertical
including palm tree wood, New Tamerza has been built walls of the gorge present a
typical of the Jerid region. just above a waterfall. Close to particularly impressive sight.
Another interesting sight in its top stands the Hotel des As with Tamerza and Chebika,
Tamerza is the pointed dome of Cascades, which is popular with the production of pomegranates,
the prayer hall belonging to the international visitors. There’s citrus fruit and dates plays
mausoleum of Sidi Dar ben another waterfall a short way out an important role in the
Dhahara. The mihrab (niche of town on the road to Chebika. village economy.
Close to the modern
settlement is an abandoned
Berber village – the deserted
houses you can see on the
other side of the gorge. Next to
the village is a café and stalls
selling souvenirs, such as desert
roses and semi-precious stones,
as well as cold drinks and mint
tea, a sign that tourism is
increasingly important to the
economy here.
The area around Midès
was used as a location for the
aircraft crash scenes involving
the main character in the film
The ruins of old Tamerza The English Patient.
CENTRAL TUNISIA
The central region of the country is dominated by vast mountainous
areas of the Tell and Saharan Atlas ranges. Its extraordinary scenery
includes the flat-topped Jugurtha’s Table and the green hills of
Jebel Zaghouan. Kairouan, one of Islam’s four holiest cities, is well
worth exploring, as are the Roman remains at Dougga, Sbeïtla and
Thuburbo Majus.
The hills of Jebel Zaghouan and Jebel the waters from rising too rapidly. These
Chambi are covered in dense forest also preserve much-needed fresh water.
dominated by Aleppo pine. The oases of Temperatures in this part of the country
Gafsa grow date palms, and the fertile are higher than in the Sahel.
areas around Kasserine are the country’s Kairouan is the largest town of the
second major bread-basket, after the central region. It has the country’s most
Medjerda Valley. Little grows in the harsher famous mosque and is also a centre
parts of the interior apart from thick for carpet making. Kairouan is followed
clumps of esparto grass, which is used in importance by Le Kef, 45 km (28 miles)
for making paper and household items east of the Algerian border, which has
such as baskets. always been an important political
Central Tunisia has four major national centre. During World War II it was the
parks including Chambi, where hyena, seat of government in areas liberated
gazelle and a variety of birds can be seen from German occupation.
as well as many species of plant. Central Tunisia has some of the country’s
Central Tunisia’s watercourses often dry most important historic sites, where
out, but during the rainy season they visitors can explore ancient temples,
rapidly fill with water. Numerous dams are theatres and baths from the period of the
built to prevent flooding and to stop Roman Empire.
Berber women walking near Sbeïtla

Interior of the Great Mosque in Kairouan
Exploring Central Tunisia

Kairouan is Central Tunisia’s largest town and, along with
Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem, one of Islam’s four holy
cities. Kairouan’s original Great Mosque was the first of its
kind to be built in North Africa. The fortress town of Le Kef, Jendouba
to the south, includes a mighty kasbah and the sanctuary

of Sidi Bou Makhlouf. Situated towards the Algerian border
are some magnificent rock formations, including an Nebeur
Souk Abras
extraordinary mountain known as Jugurtha’s Table. The
Roman sites in this region are some of the most impressive in
LE KEF
Tunisia. Dougga, for instance, is North Africa’s best-preserved
Roman town, while the ruins at Sbeïtla include ancient
temples, baths and a theatre built in the 3rd century AD.
Sidi Rabah KEF Sers
Dahmani
El-Ksour
Tajerouine
Ou
Kalaat
ed
es-Senam
el
JUGURTHA’S
-Ha
TABLE
ttab
Kalat Khasba
Thala
HAÏDRA
Ou
ed KASSERINE
el-H
at
Tebessa eb
Jebel Chambi
1554m
KASSERINE
Interior of the mosque of Sidi Sahab in Kairouan
Thélapte
0 kilometres 25
Fériana
0 miles 25
Magel
Bel Abbès
Sights at a Glance
1 Gafsa
2 Metlaoui
Moulares
3 Sened
4 Sidi Bouzid Tamerza
5 Sbeïtla pp222–3 GAFSA
Redeyef Lalla
6 Kasserine
7 Haïdra Seldja Gorge
El Guettar
8 Jugurtha’s Table METLAOUI
9 Makthar GAFSA
0 Le Kef
q Dougga pp232–3 Tozeur
w Thuburbo Majus
e Zaghouan
r Jebel Zaghouan
t Kairouan pp238–45

CENTRAL TUNISIA 219
Getting There
The central region of Tunisia
Tunis is best explored in a hired car.
A kind of long-distance transport
that’s popular with many
Tunisians are louages (large
THUBURBO ZAGHOUAN shared taxis). These run more
DOUGGA MAJUS frequently than buses but are
El Fahs JEBEL
Bou Arada ZAGHOUAN often driven at high speeds and
El Krib Gaâfour can be uncomfortable. Louages
ZAGHOUAN marked by a yellow stripe are
bi
r Saouaf licensed to travel only within the
SILIANA Ke local district; those marked by red
ed
Ou stripe are allowed to cross the
Siliana Nadour
Bargou district boundaries. The closest
airport for Central Tunisia is Sfax,
Ksar Lemsa
which is about 135 km (85 miles)
na Sbikha Enfida southeast of Kairouan. A train
ia
Sil
ed service runs between Tunis, Gafsa
Ou
MAKTHAR Ouesslatia and Metlaoui and frequent bus
A. Jlóala services run between Tunis,
La Kesra Sousse and Gafsa, with some
Sousse services to Sbeïtla, Tozeur,
KAIROUAN Medenine and Gabès.
Haffouz
Reqqada
Hbabsa El Haouareb
KAIROUAN Key
Major road
El Ayoun Bou Hajla
Other road
Nasr Allah
Track
Jelma Scenic road
SBEÏTLA Railway
Asker
Lessouda Regional border
SIDI Sfax Salt lake
Faid
BOUZID
Saïda
Bir Eel Hafey
Regueb
SIDI BOU ZID
Meknassy
Sfax
Mazzouna
SENED
da
Bia
l
Je b e Sebkhet
En-Noual
Sakket
Bel Khir
Gabès
Ruins of the Temple of Caelestis, on the edge of the

well-preserved Roman city of Dougga
1 Gafsa Situated at the southwest end

Road map B4. 93 km (58 miles) of Avenue Habib Bourguiba
from Tozeur. * 61,000. @ £ are the Roman Pools (Piscines
n ONTT: Place des Piscines Romaines, Romaines). These are two
(76) 221 664. ( Tue. 4-m-deep (13-ft) reservoirs,
linked by a tunnel and filled
Built round a large oasis on with water from a warm spring.
the border between the Though it is not encouraged,
mountain and the desert, the youth of Gafsa can often be
Gafsa is the main transport seen diving and swimming in
hub for the region. It isn’t the water. Nearby is a small
the most inspiring of Tunisia’s museum, which has some
towns but the surrounding mosaics from Sousse.
area has vineyards, olive The minaret attached to the
plantations and some striking Great Mosque dominates Gafsa’s
scenery. Gafsa itself has a skyline. The mosque probably
handful of attractions dates from the Aghlabid dynasty
including restored palaces (9th–10th centuries), although a
and some baths left behind large section of the complex
by the Romans. was not added until the 14th
Gafsa has a long history. In century. The prayer hall is dec-
the 2nd century BC this was orated with blue ceramic tiles.
a settlement belonging to At the heart of Gafsa is Habib
the Kingdom of Numidia. Bourguiba square, situated in
Destroyed in 106 BC by the the eastern part of the town. The Roman Pools in Gafsa
Roman commander Marius, it It contains a variety of shops,
was subsequently rebuilt and government offices and a E Dar Loungo
turned into a garrison. Under pleasant small park. Adjacent to the National Museum of
the Emperor Trajan it acquired When exploring the Gafsa. Open 8:30am–noon & 3–6pm
the status of a colony and medina, it is worth stepping Tue–Sun. Closed Mon.
became an important Roman into Dar Loungo, a traditional E Dar el-Shariff
town. It was destroyed in 680 17th-century house, and Rue Mohammad Khodouma.
in the course of an Arab raid Dar el-Shariff, which was built Open Oct–May: 8am–noon & 3–5pm;
but rebuilt by the Hafsids in by a wealthy 18th-century Jun–Sep: 8am–1pm.
the 15th century. landlord, Haj Osman el-Shariff.
2 Metlaoui
southwest of Gafsa. * 43,500. @ £
Metlaoui is Tunisia’s main centre

of phosphate mining. It was
built by the French at the end
of the 19th century and lies at
the foot of the Tell Atlas. The
phosphate deposits were
discovered in 1886 by Philippe
Thomas, a veterinary surgeon in
the French army and amateur
palaeontologist. In 1896 a
mining licence was granted.
The main reason to come to
Metlaoui is to climb aboard the
Lézard Rouge, a narrow-gauge
railway line, which was opened
in 1899 by the bey of Tunis. The
train runs through the 15-km-
long (9-mile) Seldja Gorge and
takes one and a half hours for
the round trip. The carriages are
early 20th century and are fitted
with red leather seats. Tickets
can be obtained from Metlaoui’s
Lézard Rouge in the Seldja Gorge, near Metlaoui main train station.
CENTRAL TUNISIA 221
Sened village, scenically located in a valley
3 Sened the road from Gafsa to Gabès. The centre of town has several
Road map C4.
A further 7 km (4 miles) to the modern buildings, which
southeast from Sened is the include offices, shops, a post
The easiest way of getting to beautiful oasis of Lalla. During office and a hotel. Most of the
Sened is from the modern the 1880s the nomads of this town buildings are single-storey,
Sened Gare hamlet, which region put up fierce resistance to modest houses with solid doors.
once had a railway station. The the French army before escaping Sidi Bouzid and the
village of Sened is tucked away to the Turkish territory of surrounding area played an
among the hills of Jebel Biada Libya. It was several years before important role during World
(1,163 m/ 3,816 ft above sea the nomads returned. As well War II. In February 1943 the
level). Sened’s houses are as refreshments, the café just Afrika Korps, commanded by
unusual in that they are built beyond the river provides a Field Marshal Rommel, clashed
from stone with gypsum good view of the oasis. with the American 1st
mortar – Berber houses are Armoured Division and
usually built with clay. After elements of the British First
they have been harvested, red 4 Sidi Bouzid Army, which led to heavy
peppers are sometimes laid out Road map C4. * 112,000.
Allied losses.
to dry on flat roofs. This area South of Sidi Bouzid, on the
has been inhabited for In Sidi Bouzid – a small district way to Gafsa, there are some
thousands of years and nearby capital town – life passes slowly. old Berber settlements spread
caves were once the dwellings Having a glass of mint tea, a along the mountain range that
of prehistoric humans. chicha (hookah), or a game of runs from Gafsa to Sfax. Situated
cards are all long-drawn-out away from well-trodden paths,
Environs activities. Much time is spent this region has some excellent
Some 30 km (19 miles) to the just talking. This is not surprising, hiking areas. Many of the
southwest of Sened and 18 km since in the summer the villages are semi-deserted and
(11 miles) southeast of Gafsa is scorching sun can raise the can be reached only on foot or
El-Guettar, a busy oasis town on temperature to 45° C (113° F). in a four-wheel-drive car.
The Dakar Rally

In 1977 a French motorcyclist, Thierry
Sabine, was taking part in the Abidjan-Nice
motorcycle rally and lost his way. After
wandering about for several days amid
the sands of the Libyan Desert, he was
miraculously found at the last moment.
Thierry Sabine returned to France and
decided to organize a rally that would
provide its participants with a chance to
challenge the forces of nature and their
own limitations. He achieved his aim on
26 December the same year when drivers
competing in the first staging of the event
set off from Paris heading for Dakar. The rally
was open to anyone who had a vehicle able
to travel over the sands. The race still takes
place and anybody who has suitable
equipment may take part. Racing in the Dakar Rally
5 Sbeïtla
Sbeïtla is a modern town 30 km (19 miles) east of
Kasserine and is fringed with olive groves and arable
fields. Close by is the site of the Roman town of
Sufetula. Initially Sufetula had the status of a
municipium (independent city) and later became a
Roman colony. In the 3rd century, Christians settled
here; most of the local churches date from that
period. The ruins are particularly well preserved
and include baths, a stunning forum and a capitol
containing temples to Juno, Jupiter and Minerva.
. St Vitalis Basilica
The church was built in the late 5th century on the
site of a large villa. This five-aisle edifice is 50 m
(164 ft) wide. One of its best-preserved sections is the
baptistry, with an oval basin decorated with mosaics.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
Roman
Bridge
Arch of Septimius
Basilica Severus
Al-Kasrajn Temple
House of the Baths

Four Seasons
St Vitalis
Fountain Baths Basilica
Bellator
Basilica
Baths
Church of
St Servus
Forum
Fountain
Cisterns
Great
0 metres 200 Baths Theatre
Byzantine
Church
0 yards 200 Baths Baths
Byzantine Fort
Olive
Press Byzantine Fort
Key
Building Byzantine . Capitol
Fort
The northwestern corner of the forum is
Road occupied by the capitol, which consists of
Museum
Footpath three temples dedicated to Juno, Jupiter and
Arch of Diocletian
Minerva. The forecourt of Jupiter’s temple
once had a speaker’s podium (rostrum).
CENTRAL TUNISIA 223
Bellator Basilica VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The church was
built in the early Practical Information
4th century AD on Road map B3, B4. Sbeïtla–
the foundations of a Kasserine road. Rue du 2 Mars.
Roman temple. Its Ruins and museum: Tel (77) 465
name comes from 813. Open 7am–7pm daily
an inscription (summer); 8:30am–5:30pm
found on the site. (winter). &
. Entrance to Forum
The forum is among the best-
preserved in North Africa. The
entrance to it was through
the Arch of Antoninus
Pius (AD 139) and led
onto a paved area.
During the Byzantine
era it was surrounded by
a 4-m-high (13-ft) wall.
Church of St Servus
Recognizable by its four surviving pillars,
this church was erected on the site of a
pagan temple. It is likely that this was the
cathedral of the Donatists who were active in
the early 4th century (see p54). To the south
are the Great Baths and an amphitheatre.
KEY
1 The small baths are among Vendors’ Stalls

several of their type in Sbeïtla. The remains of market stalls can be seen around
2 The cistern was a tank intended the forum. Here, a variety of goods was sold,
for storing water, which would have but mainly oil (the remains of an olive oil press
fed the baths. are near to the fort). Equally well-preserved are
pavement slabs that lead to the stalls.
a small Byzantine fortress. The

1st-century theatre situated
on the slope of the hill affords
a magnificent view over the
surrounding area.
Environs
About 15 km (9 miles) east
of town is Tunisia’s highest
mountain, Jebel Chambi
(1,554 m/ 5,098 ft). In 1981 this
area was declared a national
park. Halfway up the slope is
a tourist information bureau
and a small museum. From
Kasserine the GP17 road leads
The main square at the centre of Kasserine to the village of Chambi.
6 Kasserine some of its lustre during the

Road map B3. 120 km (75 miles) south
period of the French
of Le Kef. @ * 40,000. ( Tue. Protectorate. The French built a
railway line and expanded the
Kasserine lies on the central town. In its eastern section
Tunisian upland, on the banks they erected a new colonial
of the Oued el-Habeb. This is town, cut across by the long
a major industrial town and main street (Avenue Habib
transport hub. Since 1963 the Bourguiba). Even today this
town has produced cellulose area has most of the town’s
and paper made from the local administrative buildings. It
esparto grass. Kasserine was also contains the railway
established by the Romans in station (goods trains only),
the 2nd century AD, and bus station and numerous
named Cillium. Following the shops. Ancient monuments,
fall of the Roman Empire it lost including a large mausoleum, A capital from the theatre ruins
its status and remained an are found on the other side of in Haïdra
insignificant centre for local town (towards Gafsa).
villages until it regained A short way out of Kasserine, 7 Haïdra
next to the Oued Derb, is the Road map B3. Archaeological station:
well-preserved Mausoleum Open daily.
Battle of Kasserine of the Flavii. The walls of this
During World War II, on triple-tiered monument are Situated close to the Algerian
14 February 1943, the German covered with a poetic inscrip- border, Haïdra – formerly the
21st and 10th Panzer divisions, tion consisting of 110 lines; Berber settlement of
supported by an air task force, the middle section has Ammaedara – was on the trade
broke through American Corinthian pilasters; above this route that linked Hadrumetum
positions at Kasserine, and is a niche that once housed a (Sousse) with Carthage and
advanced towards the statue of Flavius. The whole Theveste (Tebessa) in Algeria.
Algerian border. US troops structure was once covered The Romans took control of it
bore the brunt of the with a triangular roof. In the around AD 75 and established
onslaught and it took a week
western part of Kasserine, on a camp here, which was used
of hard fighting and the arrival
of British reinforcements to
the edge of the dry riverbed, to station the famous Third
halt what proved to be one there is another mausoleum, Augustan Legion. Soldiers’ graves
of the last German offensives which is now in ruins. can be seen beside the road.
in North Africa. South of the town, to the An ancient road runs parallel
left of the road leading to to the modern one that leads to
Gafsa, are the ruins of Roman the site of the ruins. It is worth
Cillium, standing on top of a visiting the three-aisle Basilica
hill. Only a small section of the of the Martyrs (5th–7th
site has been unearthed. Its century). The mosaics that once
best-preserved relic is a decorated the floor are now
3rd-century Triumphal Arch. kept in Tunis’s Bardo Museum.
Nearby are the foundations Standing to the northeast of
British tank in Kasserine of a Christian basilica, tombs the basilica is the Arch of
(which are carved in rock) and Septimius Severus (AD 195),
CENTRAL TUNISIA 225
Jugurtha’s Table – a conspicuous flat rock jutting above the plain
which was later included in and western Tunisia, competed From there a narrow footpath
the Byzantine citadel. This is with Carthage, but in about leads to the top of Jugurtha’s
the best-preserved Roman 300 BC it fell under Carthage’s Table. The climb takes about
relic in Haïdra. On the other control. The Numidian leader, an hour and a half. The trail
side of the road are the ruins Massinissa, supported Rome leading up the side of the
of a late 3rd-century theatre, during the Second Punic War, mountain is spectacular: its
and further north are the which ensured a high degree of last section (a 15-minute climb)
remains of a basilica dating political freedom after the fall of is steep and requires the use of
from Vandal times. Carthage. Massinissa’s successor, hands. Standing immediately
The best-known historic relic Micipsa, continued with this before the summit is a gate
of Haïdra is the Byzantine Fort policy. Following the death of built by the bandit chief. At the
built during the reign of Micipsa, however, Rome top, at 1,271 m (4,169 ft), are
Justinian (527–565). This is the imposed Jugurtha (illegitimate the ruins of a Byzantine fortress,
largest fortress to be found in grandson of Massinissa) as ruler. some troglodyte caves, and a
any of the Maghreb countries. The Arab name of the tiny shrine containing the
The north side of the fort was mountain (and also the nearby tomb of an Islamic holy man –
rebuilt in 1840 but the south town) is Kalaat es-Senam or Sidi Abd el-Juada. This is a
side has since been destroyed “Senam’s Citadel”, which popular local pilgrimage destin-
by floods. At the centre of the originates from the chief of ation – the shrine is open to
fort are the remains of the the bandits who used this non-Muslims.
Byzantine Chapel of the Citadel. mountain as his stronghold. When setting out, be sure to
To the north of the chapel are From Kasserine, the GP17 take along plenty of drinking
the ruins of the 4th-century road runs towards Tajerouine. water (it is not possible to buy
Mellus Basilica, in which four Immediately past the mosque anything along the route). On
tombs were discovered, in Kalaat es-Senam, the road reaching the summit, stop for
including that of Bishop Mellus; climbs up towards Aïn Senan. a picnic and enjoy the view.
it is possible that the tomb of
St Cyprian is also situated here.
Berber Tattoos
Berber tattoos are often
8 Jugurtha’s Table associated with magic. The first
Road map B3 tattoo – ayasha (the one that
protects life) – is introduced
Close to the small town of immediately after birth. It is
Kalaat es-Senam, this flat- cross-shaped and usually
topped mountain rises abruptly placed on the cheeks or
out of the slightly undulating forehead. Tattoos are used
landscape that surrounds it. It for protection, to ensure good
owes its name to the Numidian luck and prosperity, and also as
king Jugurtha who held out an adornment. They are also
against the Romans here placed on wrists and the chest.
between 112 and 105 BC. Women like to sport fula
Numidia’s kingdom, situated in (triangles) on their chins. Tattooed Berber woman
what is now present-day Algeria
triumphal arch. Erected in

AD 116 to celebrate the town
being granted the status of a
municipium, Trajan’s Arch
overlooks the forum. Beyond
it are the ruins of a basilica with
a baptistry flanked by four
columns. Here, too, is the tomb
of Hildeguns – a 5th-century
king of the Vandals. South of
the Basilica of Hildeguns are
the ruins of the Great Baths
(2nd century).
A paved road running
westwards from the Great Baths
leads to the old forum. Slightly
to the north is the temple of
Roman Baths with well-preserved floor mosaics Bacchus (though only its
crypt remains). To the right are
9 Makthar considerable influence over the North Baths, which have
Road map C3. 114 km (71 miles) west the surrounding villages. some attractive floor mosaics.
of Kairouan. * 19,600. @ ( Mon. During the Byzantine era the The road running past the
town was fortified, but Punic forum leads to the Schola
Makthar is situated between following the Hilalian invasions Juvenus (AD 88). This was a
the steppes and the upland in the 11th century kind of youth club
in Tunisia’s second-largest it was destroyed. where well-to-do
agricultural region (after the A small museum children were taught
Medjerda Valley). It has splendid houses a collection how to be good
Roman remains, which are the of tomb steles Roman citizens.
most important in Tunisia along (1st–3rd century BC). Further on is the
with Dougga and Bulla Regia. Some of these bear temple of Hathor
In the 2nd century BC the Punic inscriptions Miskar (an Egyptian
small town of Makthar and symbols goddess of love)
belonged to the Numidians, (crescents, doves, and the temple of
who built a fort here giving grapes, peacocks Venus; immediately
them control over local trade and fish). The Roman past this is the
routes. Following the fall of era is represented Christian stele Roman forum, paved
Carthage in 146 BC many Punic by sculptures and tomb stone with white marble.
refugees arrived here, as the architectural Other interesting
town lay beyond the borders of fragments; the Byzantine by sights include the 1st-century
Roman Africa. However, in 46 BC bronzes, olive lamps and some AD Punic mausoleum, which
it was included in the province 4th-century floor mosaics. was turned into a church in
of a new Roman territory – Past the museum are the the 4th century and, next to
Africa Nova. The Punic and remains of a temple that has the Great Baths, some
Roman population coexisted been converted into a basilica. Numidian tombs. At the
peacefully. Romanization was a A paved Roman road leads to very end of Makthar, beyond
slow process that took some the amphitheatre and to the the excavation site, stands
200 years to accomplish. The Bab el-Aïn – one of the
numerous tomb steles (grave town’s oldest gates. Here,
stones) and the tophets close to the stream, there
(sacrificial sites), preserved to once stood a tophet dedicated
this day, provide evidence of a to Baal Hammon.
considerable Punic influence. This ancient site was
In the 2nd century AD, during rediscovered in 1887 by Captain
the reign of Emperor Trajan, the Bordier, a French officer, who
town was granted independent founded a new town that now
status, and under Marcus faces old Makthar across a
Aurelius it became a colony. ravine. Set at nearly 1,000 m
The inhabitants were granted (3,281 ft) above sea level, it is
Roman citizenship and rights on a spectacular spot.
a par with those enjoyed by the
Romans themselves. Makthar T Excavation Site
rapidly became the district’s Open Mid-Sep–Mar: 8:30am–5:30pm
richest town, and maintained Ruins of Trajan’s Arch, dating from AD 116 daily; Apr–mid-Sep: 8am–7pm daily.
The ruins of the Roman temple of Juno Caelestis, in Dougga

CENTRAL TUNISIA 229
Roman Mosaics
Mosaics were a popular decorative element during Roman times. The mosaics would have
been laid by travelling teams of artisans and were used to line the floors and walls of
public baths and to adorn the façades of public buildings. Mosaics were composed of
tesserae – tiny pieces of stone, marble or brick. From the 3rd century onwards, wealthy
people began to use them to decorate their houses. Subjects were taken from everyday
life, religion, agriculture and so on. Later on they began to feature images from mythology
as well as floral and aquatic motifs. Favourite subjects included hunting and feasting and
the seasons of the year. Games, held in amphitheatres, were also a popular subject.
Animals and plants were frequent

motifs of Roman mosaics. Craftsmen
often used their own colour schemes.
Virgil and the Muses – besides realistic scenes of

everyday life, mosaics often featured images of well-known
artists or rulers. Virgil was the favourite author of educated
North Africans.
Geometric patterns
represented another style
of mosaic art, which
developed alongside
the realistic trend. This
ornamentation Neptune’s Triumph – figurative
is typical of the later mosaics from the Roman period
mosaics, found in used mainly mythological subjects
Christian churches. and usually portrayed gods.
Ulysses and the Sirens – this mosaic (AD 260) comes from Dougga.
It depicts the temptation of Ulysses, a scene from Greek mythology.

0 Le Kef
southwest of Tunis; 42 km (26 miles)
from the Algerian border. * 30,000.
@ £ ( Thu.
Le Kef (“the rock” in Arabic) enjoys

an exceptionally scenic location
on the slopes of Jebel Dyr, close
to the border with Algeria. The
site was occupied early and both
Neolithic tools and Numidian
tombs have been found here.
Following the First Punic War it
fell to Carthage and was known
as Sicca. Later, the Romans took Nomadic tent in the Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions, Le Kef
over the town, naming it Sicca
Veneria as a mark of respect to of water. Rue de la Source Aissaouia, a form of religious
the goddess Venus. Most of the leads to an early Roman bath music. Members of the
population fled as a result of a complex. A walk uphill, along Aissaouia brotherhood used
Vandal raid but the town was Rue Farhat Hached, leads to the music as a means of entering
slowly rebuilt, and then Church of St Peter, also known into a trance. Religious
captured by the Arabs in AD 688. as Dar el-Kousse. The church meetings accompanied by
With the arrival of the dates from the 4th century and Aissaouia music are held near
Ottomans in the 16th century, contains a well-preserved apse. the tomb of the master
the town became known as Early Christian symbols can every Friday. Close to
Le Kef. As a border area it was a be seen on the wall by the tomb is the
subject of contention between the entrance. complex of Sidi
Algeria and Tunisia and Le Kef The town’s most Ali ben Aissa
was the first town occupied by interesting spot is Place (1784) and the
the French in 1881. During Bou Makhlouf, where headquarters of the
World War II it was the seat of there is a kasbah and, Rahmania Brotherhood.
the Protectorate authorities, at the top end, the Today, it houses the
and in 1942 it was used as the Great Mosque, known Regional Museum of
provisional headquarters of now as the Basilica. Popular Arts and
liberated Tunisia. This building no Cannon in the Traditions, which
A tour may be started from longer functions as a kasbah’s courtyard has a collection of
Place de l’Indépendance, where mosque and is used as traditional costumes
there is an old Roman spring, a venue for cultural events. including wedding gowns,
Ras el-Aïn, which once supplied Nearby is the Mosque of Sidi as well as jewellery, Bedouin
some huge Roman cisterns to Bou Makhlouf, which is named tents, everyday objects, textiles
the north of town. An open-air after the patron saint of and ceramics.
café here is a favourite meeting Le Kef. Next to this is a Below the square stands the
point of the locals. Close by zaouia (tomb) where the mausoleum of Ali Turki, which
stands a small altar saint is buried along also contains the tomb of his
dedicated to Lalla with members of his second son, Husayn bin Ali,
Ma – goddess family. Inside this founder of the Husaynid
mausoleum is a dynasty (1705–1957).
garden, the remains Le Kef’s kasbah contains two
of mosaics and forts. The smaller of the two is
some steles. This 12th-century and was built on
17th-century zaouia the site of a Byzantine fortress.
is an interesting sight, The larger one was built in 1679
and features two by Mohammed Bey. The tower
domes and an provides a spectacular view
octagonal minaret. over the surrounding area.
Sidi Bou Makhlouf, The building now houses a
founder of the museum and is used as a
sanctuary, was a Sufi venue for cultural events.
master, and a disciple
of El-Hadi Beness E Regional Museum of
el-Mekhnessi – a Popular Arts and Traditions
Moroccan Sufi and Open summer: 9am–1pm, 4–7pm;
Zaouia of Sidi Bou Makhlouf the originator of winter: 9:30am–4:30pm. &

CENTRAL TUNISIA 231
National Parks
The process of founding national parks in Tunisia began in the 1980s. These parks
represent a wide range of landscapes. For bird-lovers a visit to Lake Ichkeul is a must.
Those interested in botany should head for Boukornine, near Tunis, especially when the
cyclamens are in bloom. The islands of Zembra and Zembretta are not only oases of
peace and quiet, but also veritable laboratories of natural science. A long walk through
Chambi National Park and a climb up Jebel Chambi, Tunisia’s highest peak, provides an
opportunity to see wild gazelle and hyena, as well as a variety of birdlife.
Ichkeul National Park, Feija National Park lies

on the Mateur Plain, in northwestern Tunisia,
includes the lake not far from Tabarka.
and its surrounding It occupies more than
marshes. It is 73 sq km (28 sq miles)
one of the largest and has a rich vegetation
winter habitats that includes a forest of cork
for water birds. oak and some 500 species
of orchid and fern.
Ichkeul
National Park Bizerte Zembra
National Park
Boukornine
Tunis National Park
Feija
National Park
Sousse
Kairouan
Boukornine This park,

situated near Tunis,
includes 20 sq km (8 sq
Chambi Chambi miles) of woodland
National Park
The park covers 672 sq km Sfax featuring a wide variety
(259 sq miles). It includes of plants. Among the
Tunisia’s highest Bou Hedma plants that thrive here
mountain – Jebel National Park are Persian cyclamen.
Chambi (1,544
m/5,098 ft). Its
dense Aleppo Sidi Toui
pine forests Chott el-Jerid
National Park
contain
moufflon (wild
sheep) and a
variety of birds.
0 km 75
0 miles 75
Key
Motorway
Major road
Other road
Bou Hedma The park is in central Tunisia,
85 km (53 miles) from Meknassy. Among the Salt lake
wildlife found here are gazelle and antelope. River

q Dougga
Standing high on the side of a valley, Dougga is the best-preserved
Roman city in North Africa. It was originally the seat of the Numidian
king Massinissa, but was under Roman administration from the
0 metres 25
second century AD. It was accorded World Heritage Site status by
0 yards 25
UNESCO in 1997. Families continued to live among the ruins until
they were relocated in the 1950s.
. Capitol
Built in AD 166, this is one of Tunisia’s
most impressive Roman monuments.
The four front columns support the
remaining fragments of the temple
pediment, which features a statue
of Antoninus Pius.
Dar el-Achab
Located below the forum,
southwest of the Temple
of Tellus, this dates from
AD 164. It was probably
originally a temple but is
named after a family that
once occupied the site.
Dougga Dolmens
Téboursouk
Site Map
Temple of Temple of
Minerva Saturn
Numidian
Wall Church of
Victoria
Temple of Neptune
Cisterns of
0 metres 100 Ain Mizeb
0 yards 100
Amphitheatre
Cisterns of Ain Theatre
el-Hamman
Alexander
Temple of Severus
Caelestis Arch Temple of
Augustan Piety
Temple of
Concordia
Temple of KEY
Frugifer and
Liber Pater Temple of
Temple of Lycinian
Tellus Baths Pluto 1 The forum was built in stages,
between AD 14 and 34. It was
Dar el-Achab Arch of
House of
Dionysus and Septimus
flanked with columns made of
Key Cisterns of
Ulysses
House of Severus red marble and crowned with
Ain Doura Fountain the Trefoil Corinthian white-marble capitals.
Building House of
Gorgon
Road 2 Complex of temples dedicated
to the Roman gods Frugifer and
Footpath Libyo-Punic Liber Pater.
Mausoleum

CENTRAL TUNISIA 233
Town Layout VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The town was not originally
surrounded by walls. Practical Information
Unusually for the period, it Road map B2. 72 km (45 miles)
did not have an orderly east of Le Kef. Open Apr–Oct:
street layout. 7am–7pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar:
8am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
_ Classical Theatre (Jul).
Transport
@ £ Gaafour (two or three
a day).
Square of the Winds

The square was
created in AD 190
as an extension
of the forum. Its
name refers to the
3rd-century engraving
in the paving,
bearing the names
of 12 Roman winds.
. Lycinian Baths (AD 260)

Also known as the Winter Baths, this
complex of cold and warm rooms and
gymnasiums was richly decorated;
Roman Villas (3rd century AD) the floors were covered in mosaics
The houses stand along a paved road. The most intact villas and the walls lined with marble.
include the House of Dionysus and Ulysses, the House of the
Trefoil and the House of the Seasons.
Thuburbo Majus – one of the most scenic ancient ruins in Tunisia
w Thuburbo Majus which is flanked on three sides were once decorated with
Road map C2. 67 km (42 miles) west by vast Corinthian columns. statues of Aesculapius,
of Hammamet. Open Apr–mid-Sep: Its most important feature is Hercules, Mercury and Venus,
7am–7pm Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–Mar: the Capitol temple (one of the and had exquisite mosaics that
8:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. largest in Africa), which is can now be seen in the Bardo
dedicated to Jupiter, Juno Museum. The entrance led to
Thuburbo Majus lies in a and Minerva. Fragments of the the changing room; further on
beautiful valley surrounded 70-m (230-ft) statue of Jupiter was the frigidarium with three
by hills, and is – along with are kept in the Bardo Museum, pools, the tepidarium (the
Dougga, Bulla Regia, Makthar in Tunis (see pp92–3). On the warm room), the caldarium
and Sbeïtla – one of the most forum’s southwestern side (the steam baths) and the
important Roman remains in stands the Temple of Mercury sudatorium (the sweat room).
Tunisia, with many impressive (3rd century), which has eight Adjacent to it was the Palaestra
monuments. A convenient café column bases arranged in a of the Petronii (AD 225), an
and toilet are at the entrance. circle. The southeastern side exercise yard enclosed within
The Roman settlement was of the forum features a small Corinthian columns that is
established in 27 BC, close to temple and was once the site named after the rich family
the Punic town. In AD 128, after of the town’s administrative who funded it. The letters
a visit by the Emperor Hadrian, buildings. Beyond the forum, engraved on the pavement at
Thuburbo Majus was granted just to the right, are the Summer the south end form the board
the independent status of a Baths. These occupy an area of of the “36 letters” game that
municipium, and later, in 2.8 sq km (1.1 sq miles). They was widely used to learn the
AD 188, it became a colony. alphabet. Higher up the hill
Located on the trading are the Winter Baths, a well-
route between Sousse and preserved complex with a
Carthage, surrounded by fertile black-and-white mosaic floor.
land, Thuburbo Majus grew The southern section of
rapidly. Most of the public Thuburbo Majus contains a
buildings and homes decorated temple dedicated to Baal –
with mosaics date from the the layout indicates Roman
2nd and 3rd centuries. In the and Punic influence in equal
4th century some of the measures. To the east of it
buildings were extended and stood the sanctuary of
the town’s name was changed Caelestis, which was later
to Res Publica Felix Thuburbo converted into a three-aisle
Majus. However, the continuing church. The Roman cellar
conflicts between Donatists became the baptistry and
and Catholics, Vandal raids and the forecourt of the temple
finally the Arab invasion led to was turned into a cemetery.
the town’s downfall. Occasionally, a procession
On this site, immediately past is held here in honour of St
the gate is the forum (each of Perpetua, a saint who died a
its sides is 49 m/161 ft long), The colonnaded exercise yard martyr’s death at Carthage.
CENTRAL TUNISIA 235
e Zaghouan
Road map C2. * 10,000.
Zaghouan is a charming little

town that lies at the foot of Jebel
Zaghouan (1,295 m/4,249 ft).
During the time of Tunisia’s
Roman occupation the place
was called Ziqua. Little remains
from this period apart from the
large triumphal arch standing
in the main street. This street
has a number of local
restaurants and climbs upwards
to a small square that is
dominated by two minarets – Ruins of the fountain in Zaghouan
one octagonal, one square. The
square minaret was added to for each month of the year. continues the traditions of
the church building that has The fountain was built in the the Roman hot baths. At the
been converted into a mosque. 2nd century AD on the orders summit above Jebel Oust
A further climb along a narrow of Emperor Hadrian. there is a temple devoted to
street to the left of the square The small square hall of the Aesculapius and Hygeia, which
leads to the tomb of the town’s fountain, framed by a portico, in Christian times was turned
patron saint Sidi Ali Azouz (who was built next to a spring into a church.
is also venerated in Tunis). (now, alas, dry). On the opposite
Zaghouan clearly displays side are water tanks in a figure
Andalusian influences, following of eight shape. This was the r Jebel Zaghouan
an influx of refugees in the 17th starting point of the 124-km- Road map C2.
century – house windows are long (77-mile)
hung with light aqueduct that This craggy mountain is clearly
blue curtains and used to supply visible behind the Temple des
drinking fountains Carthage with Eaux and its surrounding
are decorated fresh water. Its most woodland. It appears to have
with mosaics. famous sections been cut into halves. A little
Zaghouan is are around the way up, above the fountain,
famous for the Oued Meliane, is a resting point. Close to the
superb quality of which runs along summit, at 975 m (3,198 ft), is
its water and its Aqueduct for ancient Carthage the P3 road. an excellent viewpoint and a
mountain springs. TV transmitter. In ancient times
It is worth taking a walk further Environs this area was covered with
out of town (about 1.5 km/ Some 35 km (22 miles) from cypress trees. The northern
1 mile), along the road leading Zaghouan is the spa resort of slopes of the hill are overgrown
through orchards and shaded Jebel Oust, where the natural with Aleppo pine, breadfruit
by old trees towards the brine springs come out at 55° C trees and wild olives. The scent
Temple des Eaux, a Roman (131° F). The town has a small of the pine trees blends with
fountain with 12 niches – one balneotherapy centre, which the fragrance of the sun-
warmed meadows and
rosemary. From 600 m (1,969 ft)
up, green oak and turpentine
trees can be seen; maple and
cherry trees become more
numerous nearer the top.
A hike around this area is steep,
with rugged terrain and few
signposts, but it provides a
good opportunity to get
away from the bustle of the
tourist centres.
The mountain is rich in
birdlife, especially birds of
prey. Birdwatchers may be
able to spot the king eagle
and the Bonelli eagle, as well
The green slopes of Jebel Zaghouan as vultures and falcons.
t Kairouan enclosed a smaller space than

they do today, with the Great
Kairouan was founded in AD 670 by Oqba ibn Nafi, who, Mosque at the centre. The walls
according to legend, chanced upon a golden goblet in the have been repeatedly destroyed
sand that turned out to have been lost in Mecca. When the and rebuilt. The town was
sacked during the 11th-century
goblet was picked up water sprang from the ground. The
Hilalian invasion and the
city has many interesting things to see, but its main sight is medina’s walls were not rebuilt
the Great Mosque (see pp242–3), the oldest in North Africa until the 18th century, when
and an important pilgrimage destination. Kairouan was they were reinforced with
declared a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1988. twenty round towers. Today
the walls contain four gates:
Bab Tunis, Bab el-Khoukha, Bab
Mosque of the Three Doors. At Djedid and Bab ech-Chouhada.
the centre of the medina, in Rue
des Cuirs, is Bir Barouta, a well
named after a 13th-century
holy man. Further on, in Avenue
de la République, is the
16th-century tomb of Sidi Sahib
(also known as the Mosque of
the Barber). The Great Mosque,
or Mosque of Sidi Oqba, is on
the northern edge of the
medina, adjacent to the walls.
A global ticket covering a
day’s entry to the city’s major
attractions can be purchased
at the Great Mosque and the
Aghlabid Basins.
Decorated niche in the Zaouia of
Ceramics stall on Avenue 7 Novembre P Avenue 7 Novembre Sidi el-Ghariani
The main route of the medina
Exploring Kairouan leads through the souks. U Zaouia of Sidi el-Ghariani
Visitors to Kairouan are Most of the street dates from Rue Sidi Abid el-Ghariani.
welcomed by the sight of the 17th and 18th centuries. Open summer: 8am–2pm;
two vast Aghlabid cisterns. Workshops producing winter: 8am–noon, 3–6pm.
The entrance to the medina, traditional Tunisian handicrafts Closed Sat afternoon & Sun.
surrounded by impregnable can still be seen. The tomb of Sidi el-Ghariani
walls (7 km/4 miles long), is Bab ech-Chouhada is the stands to the right of Bab ech-
through monumental gates. The best gate for the heart of the Chouhada. It was built in the
usual entrances are Bab Tunis or medina, which contains the 14th century by the philosopher
Bab ech-Chouhada. These are al-Halfaouine café, the Bir El-Djadid, though the building is
linked by Avenue 7 Novembre Barouta well and the Mosque now named after his disciple.
(formerly Avenue Ali Belhouane). el-Bey. Further along, on the The courtyard is surrounded by
To the right of Bab ech- left, is the Mosque el-Maalek. two storeys of colonnades. From
Chouhada is the tomb of Sidi At the end of the avenue is Bab here, it is possible to enter the
el-Ghariani. A little further down Tunis, which was built in 1772. mausoleum, which is lined with
towards the medina’s ceramic tiles. The intricately
centre is the P Medina Walls carved doors are worthy of
The first walls surrounding note, as is the stuccowork and
Kairouan were built in AD 762. the wooden ceiling in the tomb.
At that time they had six
gates and P Bir Barouta
Open 8am–5:30pm Sat–Thu, 8am–
noon Fri. Entrance: Rue des Cuirs.
The well was probably dug in
the 8th century, though the
building that surrounds it is
17th-century. The water is
drawn by a camel that turns
the wheels of the mechanism.
Some believe that the well was
Medina walls, over 7 km (4 miles) long found by Oqba ibn Nafi and
The courtyard of the Great Mosque of Kairouan
KAIROUAN 239
Road map C3. * 80,000.
n Rue ibn al-Aghlab, (77) 270
452; ONTT: Place des Martyrs,
(77) 231 897.
∑ kairouan.org
Transport
@
floral ornaments. The minaret in

the northeastern corner of the
mosque was added during the
Bir Barouta’s famous camel drawing water Hafsid period. This square tower
features two blind horseshoe
that it is connected to Mecca. can also be obtained here. The arches framed with blue mosaics.
The well is said to have special busiest part of the medina lies
properties – anyone who drinks between Bab Tunis and Bab
from it is certain to return to ech-Chouhada.
Kairouan one day.
U Mosque of the
P Souks Three Doors
Kairouan’s medina is one of the Rue de la Mosquée des Trois Portes.
best preserved in Tunisia. The Closed to non-Muslims
centre of town, which once The Mosquée des Trois Portes
adjoined the Great Mosque, dates from the 9th century and
was moved during the Hafsid is one of the medina’s oldest
dynasty to the site that is now religious buildings. It was
occupied by the souks founded by Mohammed bin
(markets). The maze of streets is Kairouan el-Maafri but owes
full of shops and workshops its name to its three arched
producing copper pots, leather doorways. One is intended to
goods and, above all, Kairouan’s be used by men, one by women
famous carpets (see pp241 and the other by children. The
and 245). Perfumes, clothes, mosque’s 9th-century façade is Carved stone façade of the Mosque of the
jewellery, hats and condiments covered with Kufic script and Three Doors
Kairouan’s Medina
1 Medina Walls ER
D
A
K
2 Zaouia of Sidi el-Ghariani EL
D
B
Aghlabid
3 Avenue 7 Novembre
A
Basins
I
BD
D
SI
4 Bir Barouta
IB R
E
RU
AH
Great
AV E N
S
5 Souks DIS
IM
Mosque
BA Kasbah
IB N
6 Mosque of the Three Doors IBN

EZ MEDINA
H
UE IB
AG
A
MO
SB
Medina
HL
L
E
. E
KA
IN
AV
AB
Walls
N EL
OU
K
LA
OU
DE
RA
RR
E ZA
AD
Zaouia of Sidi Sahab RU RU

J AZ ZAR
KH
AR
Bus and Louage Stations ED

A
TAH
RE Bab el-
RUE
1km (0.6 miles) PLACE DE

TUNIS L BE Khoukha
RUE
Y
AV E
BI
RA
NU
Bab Tunis
A
FA
MA
E Z
T BE
N JA FE
Z SOUKS Mosque of the
’BA ED
EL
AM
E R Zaouia of M IA
Three Doors
RU A HJ
Sidi Amor OH AG
A E
M I D L
Abbada
RU
R. ED BE
AV
J
UK
L
B
BA
.7
N
SO
BEL
E IB A IR A E
R UOU B RU
NO
Z H Mosque
G Bir
AO
VE
A El-Maalek
U
M
Barouta
ZO Bab Djedid
BR
UI
0 metres 300 Zitouna

E
E
RU Mosque
AV
300 X
Zaouia of
0 yards
. A
AU Sidi el-Ghariani
CE
AR
LI
S
DE PLACE DES
ZO
R UE MARTYRS Bab ech-

UA
R Chouhada
KE
HA
O
C
DI
UI
HE
BD
Kairouan Museum,
REQQADA
One of Kairouan’s Aghlabid Basins
Further Afield aqueduct from Jebel Cherichera. be found in the northwestern

The sights situated beyond the Most of Kairouan’s inhabitants corner of the complex and is
medina’s centre can be easily also had their own wells and covered with a dome (1629)
explored on foot. Particularly small cisterns in their homes, but under which stands the tomb
worthy of note are the Aghlabid the water stored in the reservoirs of Sidi Sahbi, clad with green
Basins – a masterpiece of Arab made the town independent of and white marble. According
hydraulic engineering. These the vagaries of the weather. In to legend, Sidi Sahbi was a
ensured that even during times the middle of the main pool it’s companion of the Prophet and
of drought the fields around possible to see the remains of a always carried with him three
Kairouan were green and number of pillars. These pillars hairs from Mohammed’s beard
supplied the town with grain. once supported a pavilion – the zaouia is sometimes
The Zaouia of Sidi Sahab (Sidi where the Aghlabid rulers referred to as the Mosque of
Abou Zammaa el-Balaoui) is a would come to cool off on the Barber for this reason.
splendid architectural example hot summer evenings. The vast courtyard is
of an Arabic sanctuary, while dominated by a minaret,
the Zaouia of Sidi Amor Abbada P Zaouia of Sidi Sahbi which dates from 1690.
has some interesting examples Avenue de la République. The zaouia has long
of Tunisian wrought iron. Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. been a holy place for
This sanctuary dates from Muslims and a fondouk
P Aghlabid Basins the 15th century and (inn) was added in the
Avenue 7 Novembre. Open 7:30am– was originally just an 17th century for pilgrims
6pm during high season; 8:30am–6pm octagonal structure, along with an Islamic
at other times. & surrounded by a wall. It school and a mosque.
The Aghlabid Basins are about was built to honour Abou
a kilometre (half a mile) north Zammaa el-Balaoui, who P Zaouia of Sidi
of the medina and were built was killed in a battle Amor Abbada
in 860 on the orders of the 50 km (31 miles) from Rue al-Gadraou. Open summer:
Aghlabid prince Abu Ibrahim Kairouan, before the town Zaouia of 8am–2pm; winter: 9am–4pm.
Ahmed, under the supervision was founded. In the 17th Sidi Sahbi The seven-domed tomb
of a freed slave named Chalaf. century Hammouda was built in 1860 to house
When they were completed, Pasha restored the mausoleum the tomb of Sidi Abbada and
the cisterns formed part of an and began the construction is one of Kairouan’s principal
extended hydro-technical of additional buildings, but pilgrimage destinations.
system that is considered to most of the work was carried Sidi Abbada was an illiterate
be one of the most important out under Mohammed Bey blacksmith who was regarded
hydraulic masterpieces of the between 1681 and 1685. The as a holy man.
Arab world. The vast cisterns mausoleum can He was a
belong to a system of 15 water
reservoirs that once supplied
the town with water.
The basins are huge. The
largest of them measures 128 m
(420 ft) across and is 4.5 m
(15 ft) deep. It can hold over
57 million litres (12 million
gallons) of water. The water was
collected partly during the
winter rains and was also fed in
along a 35-km-long (22-mile) Zaouia of Sidi Amor Abbada
KAIROUAN 241
colourful character by all E Kairouan Museum

accounts and many legends Avenue Ali Zouaoui. Tel (77) 232 013.
and stories about him have Open summer & Ramadan: 8am–
survived to this day. Sidi Abbada 2pm; winter: 8:30am–1pm, 3–5:30pm.
specialized in prophecies. One The tradition of carpet weaving
of them predicted that “three in the city goes back to the
vast scaly snakes, breathing 8th century, but it was only
fire and iron, will surround in Ottoman times that
Kairouan and finding the town Kairouan became famous
undefended will enter it. This for carpet production.
will be the punishment for the The Kairouan Museum has
transgressions committed over many examples of carpets
centuries by the inhabitants.” produced by nomadic weavers,
The prophecy was believed by who offered their services to
some to have been fulfilled richer nomads. The technique
when tanks of the Allied Forces and the patterns used in these
entered the medina in 1943. carpets show strong Turkish and
As well as making prophecies, Anatolian influences. One of the
Sidi Abbada was also known Minaret of Zitouna Mosque, within the most distinctive features of
for producing large works in thick walls these products is their red
iron. Placed around his tomb background, with beautiful
are various articles made by famous as its counterpart in geometric patterns surrounded
him, including a giant anchor, Tunis (see pp74–5), represents with white cotton thread. The
large chains and smoking pipes. a typical example of Kairouan carpets are usually made of
Two giant swords, believed to architecture. Its courtyard, camel or goat wool (see p245).
protect Kairouan from attack, surrounded by a colonnade, Carpets are on sale in many
were stolen in 1996. A pair of is the forum for religious outlets in Kairouan but not all
giant anchors (which Sidi discussion and repose. The are of the highest quality. In
Abbada claimed to have minaret that towers over the an attempt to keep standards
come from Noah’s Ark) stand mosque has a rectangular base. high, the Tunisian government
beyond Bab Djedid, just north Its top section is adorned by a issues stamped certificates,
of Place des Martyrs. They are widow framed with blue which include information
supposed to attach Kairouan ceramic tiles. It is worth about the article’s type, size
to the earth. remembering that minarets and the date of production.
were added to mosques much Such certificates are a guarantee
P Medersa of Husayn later. In the early days the of a carpet’s quality. The
Open 8:30am–1pm & 3–6pm daily muezzin called the faithful to Kairouan Museum is the ideal
Closed Fri & Sun. prayer from the roof of the place to buy a certified product,
Built in 1710 by a Husaynid mosque; only later on were and also to see examples of
prince, Husayn bin Ali, this is separate towers built for this antique carpets. It is also a
the oldest of Kairouan’s Islamic purpose. Formerly, the voice good source to obtain reliable
schools to have survived to the of the muezzin reverberated information about the prices
present day. Its entrance, around the district five times of carpets, and to become
adorned with an arch, leads to a a day; these days a recording familiar with the details of
courtyard that is flanked on is increasingly used instead. their production.
three sides by a gallery, which
consists of arched arcades
resting on columns crowned
with capitals dating from the
Ottoman period. There are
11 cells around the courtyard.
The southeastern end is
occupied by a mosque. The
mihrab (niche indicating the
direction of prayer) is crowned
with a semicircular arch. The
school underwent renovation
works in 1980 and now serves
as a town hall.
U Zitouna Mosque
Avenue Ali Zouaoui.
The Zitouna Mosque (Olive
Mosque), although not as Modern and antique rugs on display in the Kairouan Museum
The Great Mosque

Kairouan’s Great Mosque, in the centre of the
medina, is also known as the Mosque of Sidi Oqba
after the city’s founder. The original mosque was
built in AD 670 but was completely destroyed.
Most of what exists today dates from the 9th century,
though it has been remodelled many times since
then. This is one of the oldest (and largest) places
of prayer in the Islamic world and the fourth most
important pilgrimage destination after Mecca, Capitals
Medina and Jerusalem. According to Muslims, seven Most of the column stems and their
capitals were taken from other
visits here are equivalent to one visit to Mecca.
buildings, both pagan and Christian.
Some, however, were produced by
. Minaret local craftsmen.
The base of this minaret was built
between 724 and 728 and is one
of the oldest surviving structures
of its kind. It set the pattern for
all minarets in this part of the
Islamic world. The remainder
of the 35-m-high (115-ft)
minaret is 9th-century and
towers over the mosque’s
vast courtyard. Stairs with
129 steps lead to the top floor.
Cistern
The courtyard slopes
towards the centre to deliver
rainwater into a cistern below. The
intricate decorations covering the hole
are designed to filter out impurities
before the water reaches the well.
KEY
1 The sundial in the courtyard

marks the hours of prayer.
2 Well-heads are used to draw
water from the cisterns, which is
used for ritual ablutions.
3 The Pulpit, made of teak, was Entrance to the Courtyard
produced around AD 863, on the The wall surrounding the
orders of the Aghlabid Emir, courtyard has six gates. The
Abu Ibrahim. main entrance is through a
gate crowned with a dome.
KAIROUAN 243
Arcades
The cloisters skirt the courtyard on three
sides, forming long aisles that cast a
shadow and provide shelter from the sun.
Rue Ibrahim ibn Aghlab.
Open 8am–2pm Sat–Thu,
8–11:30am Fri. Non-Muslim visitors
admitted only into the courtyard.
& h Rue Sidi Abdelkader.
Mihrab Dome
This dome marks the position of
the mihrab, which points in the
direction of Mecca. It has richer
decorations than the mosque’s
other domes.
. Prayer Hall
The hall has 17 aisles.
Two wider ones are
arranged in the shape of a T.
The aisles are separated from
each other by rows of columns.
Entrance to the Mosque

There are two entrances to the mosque
from the street, both leading through dome-
crowned gates. One is on the southeastern
side, the other on the southwestern.
Decorations
The mosque’s floral motifs are inspired by
ancient Hellenic traditions. The geometric
patterns come mainly from early Christian
and Berber designs.
summer residence. Soon 10th-century inscriptions from

afterwards, other similar palaces the Koran and examples of
were built elsewhere in the 9th-century ceramics.
country. The building materials The nearby village of Sidi Ali
used, including brick and ben Nasrallach is inhabited by
timber, were typical of the semi-nomadic tribes and stages
region. The ornamental motifs “Fantasia”, a spectacular horse-
were mainly floral and riding show, in September.
geometric. As well as palaces, About 60 km (37 miles)
Reqqada also contains the northwest of Kairouan is Ksar
remains of Aghlabid baths Lemsa, a 6th-century Byzantine
and fondouks (inns). fortress, which once guarded
The National Museum of routes into the fertile Tell region.
Islamic Art occupies a former A few kilometres further on is
presidential palace at the Berber village of La
Reqqada. It displays Kesra and a huge forest
objects found in the of Aleppo pine. Some
Pool in the courtyard of Kairouan’s palace, as well as 36 km (22 miles) west
former kasbah items from other of Kairouan is the
parts of the country. village of Haffouz,
+ Kasbah A special exhibition is which has a war
Avenue ibn el-Jazzar. devoted to exhibits cemetery for Muslim
Built into the northwestern from Sabra – a palace Ancient coin from soldiers who served
walls of the medina, the kasbah just outside Kairouan Reqqada’s museum in the French army.
formed part of Kairouan’s that was built by A short way further
defensive system. Its high Caliph el-Mansour in the mid- on, close to Oued Cherichera,
walls and small windows are 10th century. The entrance are the remains of the
characteristic of this type of hall to the museum has a aqueduct that once supplied
structure. Today, the kasbah model of Kairouan’s Great Kairouan with water.
houses a hotel. A heated pool is Mosque and a reproduction
in the central courtyard, while a of its mihrab (niche indicating E National Museum
café is in the former prison. the direction of prayer). Other of Islamic Art
rooms house a collection of Tel (77) 323 337. Open 8am–2pm
P Zaouia of Sidi Abdel Fatimid and Zirid coins, some Tue–Sun (until 4pm winter except Fri).
Qadir el-Djilani
Rue de la Kasbah.
This architectural complex
is devoted to Abdel Qadir
el-Djilani – the founder of the
Sufi Qadiriyya group, one of
Islam’s most popular spiritual
groups or tariqas (literally,
spiritual “ways”). The main site
of the cult is the Sidi Abdel
Qadir mausoleum in Baghdad.
Zaouias devoted to el-Qadiriyya
are also found elsewhere in
the Muslim world. Sufis
emphasize meditation and
recital of the holy text.
Environs
Some 9 km (6 miles) south of
Kairouan is Reqqada, which
contains the ruins of a former
Aghlabid palace. Along with
Mahdia and Abbasiya, this was
one of the four Tunisian capitals.
In AD 876 the Aghlabid prince,
Ibrahim II, built a magnificent
residence – Qasr el-Fath (the
Victory Palace) – on the
outskirts of Kairouan which
was soon turned into a luxury Entrance to the Zaouia of Sidi Abdel Qadir, close to the Great Mosque
CENTRAL TUNISIA 245
Kairouan’s Carpets
Carpet weaving in Kairouan goes back hundreds of years. It is said that the carpets
produced here were so precious that the Aghlabid princes paid their taxes in them to the
Abbasid Caliphs. Two main types of carpet are made in Kairouan – knotted and woven.
Woven carpets tend to be cheaper. In the 19th century a loop stitch was introduced.
Camilla, daughter of the town’s Turkish governor, is said to have taught this to the locals.
This type of carpet features mainly red, blue and green colours and geometric patterns.
More than 4,000

women in Kairouan
are employed to
weave carpets
(men stick to
selling) and they
work mainly from
home. At one time,
brightly coloured
carpets were the
main part of a
bridal dowry.
Buying a carpet is a ritual, and
many people visit Kairouan Museum
(see p241) for advice. Visitors can also
buy carpets there, complete with
certificates of authenticity.
Mergoum, or woven carpets

are of Berber origin. This type
of carpet has brighter colours
and a purely geometric
pattern; it is also much lighter
in weight and is further
decorated with embroidery.
The basic knot used

in Kairouan carpets
is of Turkish origin.
The value of a carpet
depends on the
density of knots, the
quality of material
Carpets sold by street vendors are and the weaving
predominantly of beige, white and black technique. Silk carpets
colouring. They are decorated with can have as many
geometric patterns and floral motifs. as 500,000 knots
per square metre.
TRAVELLERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 248–259

Where to Eat and Drink 260–281
Shopping in Tunisia 282–289
Entertainment in Tunisia 290–293
Sport in Tunisia 294–295
Activities for Visitors 296–299
248 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Tunisian hotels are mostly of a good standard, tourist resorts are set in scenic surroundings,
regardless of size and location. Independent and offer extensive recreational facilities.
travellers may like to consider staying in Hotels situated away from the main resorts
traditional or historic venues, such as former tend to be more modest. Many are aimed at
fondouks, once inns for travelling merchants. Tunisian holiday-makers and do not provide
In Berber villages it is even possible to stay in the same facilities or entertainment. Our
a troglodyte home, as many have been listings on pages 252–9 recommend a range
converted into small hotels. Most hotels in of options across the country.
When checking into a less

expensive hotel, make sure
the room is air-conditioned.
At the very least, it should have
a fan and include the use of a
bathroom; confirm that the
bathroom has towels and soap,
too. For winter stays, it is worth
asking for a room with heating,
even if it costs a few dinars
more. If there is a hotel
restaurant, ask for a room well
away from the kitchen or dining
area to avoid noise and smells.
Relaxing communal space at Dar Enesma, El-Haouaria (see p253)
Types of Hotel and Bedouin tents – all traditional Hotel Categories
The choice of hotel in Tunisia options in Tunisia. Another Hotels in Tunisia can be divided
is dictated not only by price category is the so- called hôtel into three categories: non-
but also by whether the hotel de charme; these independently classified (NC), classified (from
caters to independent travellers run boutique establishments one to five stars) and those
or the package holiday market. generally have a small number classified within holiday resorts.
Package holidays are usually a of rooms and offer chic accom- The last of these are superior to
less expensive option, although modation. Many distinguish their urban equivalents in terms
perhaps not the most interest- themselves with stylistic of standards, comfort and
ing. Most hotels in tourist flourishes such as minimalistic recreational facilities, and they
resorts have a swimming pool, decor or original local art work. usually offer a beautiful location.
whereas a five-star hotel in For more detailed Bear in mind that a five-star hotel
town may not. information about the specific in Tunisia may translate to a
The choice of where to stay types of accommodation on four-star hotel in Europe;
includes ancient fondouks and offer, see Recommended however, some of the newest
former palaces, troglodyte homes Hotels (p251). resort hotels measure up well.
Hotels surrounding the harbour in Port el-Kantaoui

A spice stall at a bazaar
W H E R E TO S TAY 249
year for the same accommo-

dation. It’s a good idea to clarify
early what a named price
includes and what extras you
can buy on top of this.
Like everywhere else in
Tunisia, feel free to haggle in
hotels. Some places refuse to
lower the price, but it is worth
a try, particularly in off season.
Booking
Tunisia has a large number of
hotels, so you should not
A room with sea views at La Villa Bleue, in Sidi Bou Saïd (see p254) encounter any difficulty in
securing accommodation.
One- and two-star hotels are for upgrading or for an extra However, booking ahead is
sometimes situated in older bed, and many include breakfast advised, particularly in the
buildings reflecting earlier in the price of the room, summer and during peak holi-
colonial times. Sometimes, regardless of the number of day periods, especially in beach
they are tucked away in the stars or location. Some also offer resorts. The situation is somewhat
alleyways of ancient medinas. the option of half- or full board. different with the many
Most rooms have en-suite Hotels with sea views on one medium-category hotels and
bathrooms or hot showers. side and street views on hôtels de charme, where there is
Three-star hotels are the other might charge often a shortage of rooms.
primarily aimed at more for the water Large resort hotels usually
package holiday- view. Some bargain have reliable websites through
makers. Four- and hotels will charge which confirmed bookings may
five-star establish- extra for a room be made. If an establishment
ments cater also for with a shower. doesn’t have a website, which
business travellers. Tunisia has a many smaller and independent
In tourist resorts, summer peak hotels don’t, phone to book a
these upmarket season, when the room instead. Note that things
hotels will usually number of tourists can go awry, however, and this
have larger rooms swells into the method does not absolutely
than those offered by millions. For this guarantee a room. If you opt to
their town equiv- Plaque of a reason, in the book after your arrival, it is best
alents, while their “tourist-class” hotel summer you can to do so in person.
decor will probably expect to pay two It is not uncommon for hotels
be inspired by local designs and to three times the amount that to offer something but then
traditional architecture. you would pay the rest of the claim that it is unavailable.
Hotel Chains
The main hotel chain in Tunisia
is Abou Nawas. It runs good
four- and five-star hotels in many
of the towns and tourist resorts.
El-Mouradi is another major
chain with good four- and five-
star hotels. Several other inter-
national hotel chains operate in
Tunisia, specializing in seaside
holidays. These include Riu,
Club Mediterranée, Golden
Tulip and Vincci.
Prices
Accommodation prices range
from 10 TD for a hostel to 300 TD
or more for a luxury resort. Most
hotels charge an additional fee Typical Arabic decor at La Chambre Bleue, Tunis (see p252)
Tourist Zones
A tourist zone (zone touristique)
is a purpose-built holiday town.
The main advantages of such
zones include their proximity
to entertainment, lush green
surroundings and direct access
to the sea and beach. Tourist-
zone hotels are generally of a
higher standard than city hotels.
Standards of behaviour are also
more relaxed, and visitors may
act more freely than in towns
or the countryside.
Tourist zones tend to be quieter
than towns. However, their A hotel in the Zone Touristique near Hammamet
location may disappoint those
who put sightseeing above time the rules and regulations can be Disabled Persons
spent under a beach umbrella, fairly strict (many hostels close Most older Tunisian hotels are
because they are rarely close to at 10pm and allow a maximum not accessible to wheelchair
the major sights. A disadvantage stay of three nights). users. However, Tunisians are
of tourist zones is their lack of The maisons des jeunes, on considerate of those needing
local cafés and restaurants the other hand, are part of a additional help and will often
serving traditional Tunisian government-run organization go out of their way to offer
cuisine. In addition, prices in that, in high season, usually assistance. Modern hotels are
tourist zones are generally occupies schools or colleges. more likely to be wheelchair-
much higher than in towns. A disadvantage of these hostels accessible, but you should ask
is their poor location, well away in advance before booking.
from town centres. A big plus is Information on facilities for
Youth Hostels that they can be found in almost the disabled can be obtained
Tunisia offers two types of every town. Many of them have from the Association Générale
youth hostel: the auberges de small kitchens, which can be des Insuffisants Moteurs, the
jeunesse and the maisons des used for an additional fee. Both main Tunisian organization for
jeunes. Try to find the former, types of hostel give preference people with impaired mobility.
because they are usually located to members of the International
in historic buildings such as Youth Hostel Association.
fondouks or palaces. The rooms, A night in a two- or three-bed Children
often arranged around flower- room costs about 3–4 TD. Tunisians love children and are
filled courtyards, differ in terms Breakfast will cost 1 TD; the eager to cater to their needs
of size and furnishings. They remaining meals about 3 TD. and wants. When planning a
are usually quite simple, with holiday with children, ask the
just a bed, a wardrobe and a travel agent about hotels that
small table, but they are very Campsites offer entertainment specifically
clean. The staff contribute to There are few campsites in for families with young ones.
a pleasant atmosphere, though Tunisia, and their standard is very All tourist-zone hotels will
low. With the permission of the have highchairs for infants and
landowner or the local authorities, serve special menus for young
a tent may be pitched on private children. They can normally
or public land, or on a site provide a cot, too, though few
belonging to a youth hostel. hotels provide dedicated baby-
There are camp sites in Remel changing rooms.
Plage, near Bizerte, in Hammamet Most hotels offer discounts of
(Ideal Camping), Nabeul (Les between 30 and 40 per cent for
Jasmines), Sousse (Green Pub), children aged 10 and under.
Tozeur (Le Belvedere), Douz The major resort hotels
(Paradis) and Zarzis (Sonia usually have well-maintained
Camping ‘n’ Caravanning). playgrounds and shallow
When travelling in the south paddling pools. While many of
of the country, however, there the tourist beaches are patrolled,
are several Bedouin tent it is always wise to keep a
options. Some are basic desert watchful eye on the children.
tents, while others are luxury, Most Tunisians understand
Streamlined style in a room at the and offer en suite facilities and cultural differences. However,
Dar Hi, Nefta (see p258) activities, such as camel trekking. when visiting less well-travelled
areas, try not to be alarmed if

someone attempts to hug or
kiss a child. This is quite
common, even among people
who do not know one another.
Hotel Entertainment
Most tourist-zone hotels put
on entertainment (known as
animation) for their guests,
which can include social The pool and grounds at the hotel Odyssée, Zarzis, Djerba (see p257)
evenings, games, competitions
and themed parties. Most Recommended Hotels merchants, and Bedouin tents
entertainment programmes The hotels listed on the follow- are an option for those who love
are run in hotels aimed at ing pages – organized first by the great outdoors.
families with children; in five- area and then by price – have Boutique hotels, otherwise
star hotels the entertainment been selected across a wide referred to as hôtels de charme,
is more low-key. price range for their location, are independent establishments
Some hotels host evening amenities and individual appeal. with unique finishing touches,
entertainment. This may Budget hotels include both and mid-range hotels offer
consist of a folk show or belly youth hostels and good-value affordable accommodation with
dancing or traditional malouf accommodation, while bed some facilities.
music in one of the hotel cafés. and breakfasts (B&B) often have So-called business hotels
The larger hotels also organize plenty of character. offer extensive amenities for
excursions to some of Tunisia’s Historic hotels are usually set professionals. The term “resort”
most interesting sights. An in old buildings of interest, such refers to a large hotel complex,
additional fee is usually required as fondouks, which were once which generally includes a pool
for these trips. stopovers for travelling and entertainment, while “rooms
with views” refers to hotels in a
particularly picturesque setting.
Luxury hotels provide five-star
service and facilities, and you
should expect impeccable treat-
ment at these establishments.
The DK Choice label means
that the hotel is outstanding in
some way. It could be in a
historic building, offer wonder-
ful value or provide exceptional
service. Whatever the reason, it
The main pavilion of the El Mouradi Hammam Bourguiba resort, Aїn Draham (see p254) will guarantee a memorable stay.
DIRECTORY
Hotel Information Hotel Chains Youth Hostels Houmt Souk
Rue Moncef Bey 11.
Tunisian Tourist Abou Nawas Association Tel (05) 650 619.
Office ∑ abounawas.com Tunisienne des
77a Wigmore Street, Nabeul
Club Mediterranée Auberges et Tourisme
London W1U 1QF. Rue Mongi Slim.
∑ clubmed.co.uk de Jeunes Tel (72) 285 547.
Tel (020) 7224 5561. Rue d’Alger 8,
∑ cometotunisia.co.uk El-Mouradi Tunis Medina
∑ elmouradi.com 1000 Tunis.
Tel (71) 353 277. Rue de Saida Ajoula 25.
Hotels on the Golden Tulip Tel (71) 567 850.
∑ atatj.planet.tn
Internet ∑ goldentulip.com
∑ hotels-tunisiens.com Bizerte Information
Riu
∑ hoteltravel.com ∑ riu.com Route de la Corniche.
Association Générale
∑ planet.tn Tel (72) 431 608.
Vincci des Insuffisants
∑ tourismtunisia.com/ Moteurs
∑ vinccihoteles.com Hammamet
hotels Tel (70) 605 264.
Tel (72) 280 440.
∑ tripadvisor.com Tunisian Travel
∑ tunisia.com Service Hammam-Sousse
∑ tunisiehotel.com ∑ tts.com.tn Tel (73) 362 644.
Where to Stay
La Chambre Bleue  Price Guide
Tunis B&B Road map C1 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
24 Rue du Divan
 inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Dar Lakhdar Tel 22 579 602
Budget Road map C1 ∑ lachambrebleue.net  up to 80 TD
71 Re el Marr Enjoy a one- or two-night stay  80 TD to 180 TD
 over 180 TD
Tel 71 565 175 amid authentic Tunisian decor
∑ darlakhdar.siteweb.tn in this exquisite 12th-century
Located next to a busy street, this home in the heart of the Hôtel de l’Agriculture 
budget hotel is clean and warm, medina. Breakfast provided. Boutique Road map C1
with traditional design and a 25 Rue Charles de Gaulle
central courtyard. Tel 71 326 394
DK Choice Rooms here are decorated in
Hotel Naplouse  Dar Ben Gacem  soft blue tones, while the halls
Budget Road map C1 Boutique Road map C1 are traditionally designed, with
20 Rue Naplouse 38 Rue du Pacha few frills. The hotel is clean,
Tel 71 338 844 Tel 71 563 742 with friendly staff and a
∑ hotel-naplouse.com ∑ darbengacem.com pleasant tea room.
A simple hotel offering reasonable- Located in the heart of the
sized rooms with private baths medina, this sumptuous Hôtel Excel 
and free Wi-Fi. Pleasant staff. hotel features such Moorish Rooms with Views Road map C1
architectural details as high 35 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
Hôtel Omrane  arches and coloured tiles. Tel 71 355 088
Business Road map C1 The elegant rooms, in either Located on the main street
65 Avenue Farhat Hached modern or Tunisian design, in Tunis, with excellent
Tel 71 345 277 have free Wi-Fi and other views of the hubbub below.
∑ hotel-omrane.com.tn/en/home. modern facilities. The hotel The Excel offers a small but
htm also boasts a wide terrace. reasonable breakfast.
Catering to the professional
crowd, the Omrane provides Dar El Medina 
clean, simple rooms in a busy area. Dar Traki  Boutique Road map C1
Historic Road map C1 64 Rue Sidi ben Arous
Hotel Saint Georges Tunis  7 Impasse Mesjed el Koba, Tel 71 563 022
Budget Road map C1 Bab Mnara, Sarrajine ∑ darelmedina.com
16 Rue de Cologne Tel 24 789 808 Simple elegance in the heart
Tel 71 781 029 ∑ dartraki.com/en/index.html of the medina. Rooms here
Close to Tunis’s main attractions, This 17th-century hotel are tastefully decorated in
this budget hotel has simple yet conveniently sits right in the traditional Tunisian style.
practical decor, plus free Wi-Fi medina, close to many
and a restaurant. attractions. Guest rooms are Golden Tulip
elegant and tastefully decorated. el Mechtel 
Hôtel Salammbô  Resort Road map C1
Boutique Road map C1 Grand Hôtel de France  3 Avenue Ouled Haffouz-
6 Rue de Grèce Historic Road map C1 El Omrane
Tel 71 350 732 8 Rue Mustapha M’barek Tel 71 783 200
∑ hotelsalammbo.com Tel 71 326 244 ∑ goldentulipelmechtel.com/en
Small but clean rooms in a hotel Not far from busy Avenue This resort-style property is
furnished with antiques. Guests Habib Bourguiba, this elegant comfortable and elegant, and
may have to pay extra for air 1930s hotel has a charming it boasts numerous amenities
conditioning, a fan or a shower. courtyard, plus simple rooms at for the entire family, including
affordable prices. a pool and a spa.
Hotel Solymar 
Budget Road map C1
Zone Touristique Borj Cedria
Tel 72 366 605
∑ solymar-hotel.com
The Solymar is located on the
beach and offers a small pool
and a buffet-style restaurant.
Belvédère Fourati 
Business Road map C1
10 Avenue des Etats-Unis
d’Amérique
Tel 71 783 133
∑ belvederefourati.com
Airy, clean rooms at decent prices.
The hotel offers several dining
options and varying conference
suites. The staff are pleasant. Classic Tunisian elegance at La Chambre Bleue, Tunis
Hotel Africa  CARTHAGE: Villa Didon 

Luxury Road map C1 Boutique Road map C1
50 Avenue Habib Bourguiba Rue Mendes France
Tel 71 347 477 Tel 71 733 433
∑ hotelafrica-tunis.com ∑ villadidoncarthage.com
Despite its location on a busy Ultra-modern and expensive,
street, this hotel is quiet and this property has quirky decor
comfortable, with good facilities. and stunning views of the sea.
ELHAOUARIA: Les Grottes 

DK Choice Budget Road map D1
Hotel Concord Routes des Grottes
Berges du Lac  Tel 72 297 296
Luxury Road map C1 ∑ les-grottes.e-monsite.com
Rue du Lac de Turkana Guests here enjoy fantastic sea
Tel 71 961 951 views, a pool and three full meals
∑ hotelconcorde-bergesdulac. for around 50 TD a night.
com
Sitting on the edge of Lake ELHAOUARIA: Pension
Tunis, this hotel has sweeping Dar Toubib  Warm communal room with fireplace at
views of both the sea and the Budget Road map D1 Dar Enesma, El-Haouaria
mountains from some of its Rue Okba Ibn Nafaa
balconied rooms, which are Tel 72 297 163 GAMMARTH:
modern and elegant, with a Clean, typically designed rooms Ramada Plaza 
luxurious design. The hotel for as little as 15 TD a night. Luxury Road map C1
features a Parisian-style Les Côtes de Carthage
restaurant and brasserie, plus ELHAOUARIA: Dar Enesma  Tel 71 911 100
a full spa. Boutique Road map D1 ∑ ramadaplaza-tunis.com
Route du Port Guests at this five-star property
Tel 22 700 243 can enjoy indoor and outdoor
Hotel Paris  ∑ darenesma.com pools, as well as sporting activi-
Luxury Road map C1 This charming hotel offers home- ties and several dining options.
Rue du lac Turkana, Les Berges du Lac cooked meals, a traditional
Tel 71 107 500 hammam and access to a beach. HAMMAMET: Caribbean
A lovely four-star establishment World Venus Garden 
with spacious rooms and GAMMARTH: Resort Road map D2
good business facilities. A Caribbean World  Avenue de la Paix
buffet-style restaurant serves Resort Road map C1 Tel 72 227 211
local cuisine. 592 La Marsa Zone Touristique Sitting next to the beach, this
Tel 58 366 544 family-friendly resort is also
Majestic Hotel  A tranquil beachside resort close to many attractions.
Boutique Road map C1 with several pools, a full spa Amenities include a huge pool.
36 Avenue de Paris and multiple dining options.
Tel 71 332 666 Excellent views, too. HAMMAMET: Dar Hayet Hotel 
∑ majestichotel.tn Budget Road map D2
Built in 1911, this Art Deco hotel GAMMARTH: Carthage Rue Akaba
offers spacious rooms and suites, Thalasso Resort  Tel 72 264 811
alfresco dining and a full spa. Resort Road map C1 Set on the beach, Dar Hayet is
270 Les Cotes de Carthage a small hotel with quaint decor
Hotel Novotel Tunis Mohamed V Tel 71 910 111 and spacious, clean rooms.
 ∑ carthagethalassoresort.com
Luxury Road map C1 Fairy-tale resort with classy decor HAMMAMET: Diar Lemdina 
44 Avenue Mohamed V in an exclusive neighbourhood. It Resort Road map D2
Tel 71 830 500 offers indoor and outdoor pools, Medina Mediterranea Rue de la
∑ novotel.com plus several dining options. Medina, Yasmine
Quirky decor, excellent cuisine Tel 72 241 000
and professional staff, right in ∑ diarlemdina-hotel.com
the heart of the city. DK Choice This hotel has access to a private
GAMMARTH: beach, which can be reached
Mövenpick Hotel  on foot or by bus. There is also
Luxury Road map C1 a water park (for which there is
Greater Tunis and Avenue Taieb Mhiri 36, La Marsa a surcharge).
Cap Bon Peninsula Tel 71 741 444
∑ moevenpick-hotels.com HAMMAMET: Vincci Lella
CARTHAGE: Dar Amilcar  A fabulous property with Baya Thalasso 
B&B Road map C1 impeccable service, luxury Resort Road map D2
110 Rue Slaheddine Bouchoucha amenities and great dining. Zone Touristique Yasmine
Tel 71 744 809 Relax on the terrace with sea Tel 72 240 888
In addition to beautiful views views or enjoy the full-service ∑ vinccihoteles.com
of the sea, this four-bedroom spa; swim in the indoor infinity Featuring traditional southern
home offers an airy, country pool or meander through the Tunisian architecture, this hotel
feel and warm service. There elegantly designed halls. also has a good restaurant, access
is also a small pool. to the beach and entertainment.
For more information on types of hotels see page 248
KELIBIA: Palmarina  SIDI BOU SAÏD:

Resort Road map D1 Sidi Bou Fares 
Near the harbour Boutique Road map C1
Tel 72 274 063 15 Rue Sidi Bou Fares
Lovely, cool rooms greet the Tel 71 740 091
visitor in this hotel by the sea. ∑ hotelboufares.com
There is also a nightclub. This unique little establishment
next to a Moorish café offers
KERKOUANE: Dar Zenaidi  simple en-suite rooms and
B&B Road map D1 excellent service.
112, Kelibia
Tel 22 774 705 SIDI BOU SAÏD: Dar Said 
∑ dar-zenaidi.com Boutique Road map C1
Enjoy views of the ruins and the Rue Toumi
sea from this villa with charming Tel 71 729 666
rooms and beautiful gardens. ∑ darsaid.com.tn
The decor here ranges from
LA GOULETTE: Lido  classic to cosy, and from
Mid-Range Hotel Road map C1 traditional Tunisian to modern.
Rue Ali Bach Hamba There are lovely views of the
Blue accents in a bedroom at La Villa Bleue, Tel 71 738 045 sea from the ample rooms.
Sidi Bou Saïd ∑ hotellido.com.tn
Good service and comfortable
HAMMAMET: Medina rooms in a modern hotel in the DK Choice
Solaria & Thalasso  middle of La Goulette. Located SIDI BOU SAÏD:
Resort Road map D2 on the beach and near restaurants. La Villa Bleue 
Route de la Medina Yasmine Boutique Road map C1
Tel 72 241 959 LA MARSA: Pension Predl  68 Rue Kennedy
∑ medina.com.tn B&B Road map C1 Tel 71 742 000
A beautiful beachfront hotel with 7 Rue Mohamed ∑ lavillableuesidibousaid.com
plenty of amenities, including a Salah el-Melki Perched high on a hill, La Villa
pool and a full-service spa. Tel 71 749 529 Bleue offers sweeping views
∑ pension.predl.free.fr of the sea from its quiet
HAMMAMET: The Russelior Clean rooms with no-frills in the terrace. Rooms are modern
Hotel & Spa  heart of La Marsa, This establish- and comfortable, with a touch
Luxury Road map D2 ment has a garden and terrace. of Tunisian style. There is a full
Route Touristique Yasmine spa and outdoor pool, and the
Hammamet LA MARSA: Dar El Marsa  restaurant is run by Michelin
Tel 72 245 000 Luxury Road map C1 chef Jean-François Issautier.
∑ therusselior.com 75 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
Classic elegance meets modern Tel 71 728 000
amenities and superior service at ∑ darelmarsa.com
this five-star beachfront property In addition to superb sea views,
with sumptuous decor. large rooms and restaurants, Northern Tunisia
Dar El Marsa also has a full
HAMMAMET: spa and access to the beach. AÏN DRAHAM: Beau Séjour 
The Sindbad  Budget Road map B2
Resort Road map D2 NABEUL: Hotel Kheops  Opposite the Maison des Jeunes
Avenue des Nations Unies Mid-Range Hotel Road map D2 Tel 78 656 112
Tel 72 280 122 Avenue Mohamed V This is a simple abode with
∑ sindbadhotel.com Tel 72 286 555 cheap prices and clean rooms.
First-class service, a full spa and Clean rooms and helpful staff; Family-friendly, it is also used by
a range of restaurants await you Hotel Kheops is very near the many hunters.
here. Relax in the infinity pool beach. Wi-Fi is available in public
overlooking the private beach. areas only. AÏN DRAHAM: Les Pins Hotel 
Budget Road map B2
HAMMAMET: Vincci NABEUL: Vime Lido  148 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
Flora Park  Mid-Range Hotel Road map D2 Tel 78 656 200
Resort Road map D2 Avenue du 7 Novembre ∑ lespins-hotel.com
Zone Touristique Yasmine Tel 72 362 988 Les Pins offers spacious, clean
Tel 72 244 727 ∑ vimehotels.com rooms in a charming setting
∑ vinccihoteles.com Spotless and spacious, the Vine where one can look over the
This hotel is lovely and quiet, and Lido offers a tranquil ambience forest from the balcony.
has a strict no children policy in and a private beach.
place. The food is excellent. AÏN DRAHAM: El Mouradi
SIDI BOU SAÏD: Dar Fatma  Hammam Bourguiba 
KELIBIA: Pension Anis  B&B Road map C1 Resort Road map B2
Budget Road map D1 1 Rue Sidi Bou Taraa Hammam Bourguiba
Avenue Mongie Ben Hamida Tel 71 981 284 Tel 78 654 055
Tel 72 295 777 ∑ darfatma.com ∑ elmouradi.com
Some rooms here have shared Stunning sea views from an A tranquil getaway located at the
bathroom facilities. There is also a elegant seven-room home with base of the mountains and offering
bar-restaurant with decent wine. an outdoor pool and free Wi-Fi. spectacular views and a full spa.
Key to Price Guide see page 252
Boasting sweeping views of the TABARKA: Dar Ismail 

DK Choice sea from most of its rooms, the Boutique Road map B1
AÏN DRAHAM: Nour also offers quick access Zone Touristique
Royal Rihana  to the beach and the city, Tel 78 670 188
Rooms with Views Road map B2 plus some apartment rooms. ∑ darismail.com
Avenue Habib Bourguiba With direct access to the beach,
Tel 78 655 391 JENDOUBA: Simitthu  this five-star Moorish-style hotel
∑ royalrihana-hotel.com Budget Road map B2 offers all the usual amenities.
A simple hotel popular with Boulevard du 9 Avril 1938
hikers and hunters, the Royal Tel 78 604 043 TABARKA: Hotel
Rihana has a range of hunter Rooms at the Simitthu are clean, Residence Mehari 
lodge-style rooms. It also offers with basic amenities. The hotel Boutique Road map B1
activities such as horse riding, is not far from the train station Zone Touristique
ecological excursions and or the ruins. Tel 78 671 445
hunting. The restaurant makes ∑ goldenyasmin.com/residence-
good use of fresh, local game. RAF RAF PLAGE: Dalia  mehari-tabarka
Budget Road map C1 An upscale residence offering
7015 Raf Raf a wealth of amenities, including
BIZERTE: Dar Warda  Tel 72 441 630 free breakfast and beach access.
B&B Road map C1 Situated on the beach, this hotel
50 Rue Redj offers basic rooms and some sea
Tel 22 480 136 views. Found next to some good
∑ couscousboulette@msn.com restaurants and walking areas. The Sahel
A one-room abode with superb
city views and the owner’s TABARKA: Hotel La Plage  ELDJEM: Ksar El-Jem 
undivided attention. Ideally Budget Road map B1 Budget Road map D3
situated for exploring the city. 11 Avenue 7 Novembre 1987 On the road to Sfax
Tel 78 670 039 Tel 73 632 800
BIZERTE: Le Petit Mousse  This quaint little hotel in the Located a short way from the
Rooms with Views Road map C1 centre of town, not far from the amphitheatre, this hotel has a
Route de la Corniche beach, has clean rooms, some pool and a restaurant.
Tel 72 432 185 with shared baths.
Located on the boardwalk, this GABÈS: Hotel Atlantique 
family property is warm and TABARKA: Hotel de France  Historic Road map D5
inviting, with sea views from the Rooms with Views Road map B1 4 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
balconies and a great restaurant. Avenue Bourguiba Tel 75 220 034
Tel 78 670 600 Frequented by Rommel during
BIZERTE: YHA Rimel Located downtown, the Hotel World War II, this hotel is housed
Youth Hostel  de France is a quaint structure in a colonial building with
Hostel Road map C1 with traditional decor and pleasant rooms. Despite being a
Rimel Menzel Jmil friendly staff. Some rooms have little noisy, it is a good choice –
Tel 98 472 863 balconies and views of the fort. and great value, at about 20 TD a
This little hostel in the forest, night including breakfast.
yet close to the sea, is also only TABARKA: Hotel
minutes from the city on foot. Les Mimosas  GABÈS: Chems 
Rooms with Views Road map B1 Rooms with Views Road map D5
BIZERTE: Andalucia Avenue Habib Bourguiba 6000 Gabès
Beach Hotel  Tel 78 673 018 Tel 75 270 547
Apartments Road map C1 Within walking distance of the ∑ hotelchems.com.tn
Zone Touristique Sidi Salem town, Les Mimosas is perched on A lovely property with sweeping
Tel 72 421 182 a hill, with excellent views of the views of the sea. The hotel offers
∑ andaluciabeach.net old fort and the sea. Sometimes numerous activities and several
Close to the main sights, these the hot water is scarce. restaurants and bars.
apartments with kitchenettes
have clean, modern lines and
direct access to the beach.
BIZERTE: Bizerta Resort 

Resort Road map C1
Route de la Corniche Sidi Salem
Tel 72 436 966
∑ bizertaresort.com
This four-star property next to
the beach is also within walking
distance of the sites. Several
dining options and a full spa.
BIZERTE: Hotel
Residence Nour 
Boutique Road map C1
Zone Touristique Sidi Salem
Tel 72 425 303
∑ hotelresidencenour.com The light-filled lobby of the Chems hotel, in Gabès
KERKENNAH: Cercina  MATMATA: Diar El-Barbar  SFAX:

Budget Road map E4 Resort Road map D5 Les Oliviers Palace 
Route Touristique, Sidi Fredj On the road to Douz Luxury Road map D4
Tel 74 489 600 Tel 75 240 074 25 Avenue Hedi Chaker
∑ kerkenniens.com/hotel-cercina- ∑ diarelbarbarmatmata.com Tel 74 201 999
kerkennah-tunisie A four-star property with various ∑ goldenyasmin.com/oliviers-
The sea views are well worth the dining options, desert views and palace
additional charge at this simple good amenities, including pools. An elegant five-star property
hotel right by the water. providing three restaurants,
MONASTIR: Amir Palace  a wealth of amenities and
KERKENNAH: Kastil  Luxury Road map D3 sweeping sea views.
Rooms with Views Road map E4 Zone Touristique Skanes
Route Touristique, Sidi Fredj Tel 73 521 915 SOUSSE: Dreams Beach 
Tel 74 481 212 ∑ amirpalace-hotel.com Budget Road map D3
Charming seafront hotel offering Located on its own private beach, Route de la Plage
pleasant rooms with views, the Amir Palace offers five-star Tel 73 325 999
terraces and delicious cuisine. luxury at affordable prices. ∑ dreamsbeach-hotel.com
Advantages of this budget hotel
KSAR GHILANE: Le Paradis  MONASTIR: include its seafront location and
Bedouin Tents Road map C6 El Mouradi Skanes  its proximity to city attractions.
Sid Mahrez Luxury Road map D3
Tel 75 656 975 Zone Touristique Dkhila SOUSSE: Cesar Hotel 
∑ paradis-sahara.com Tel 73 521 999 Budget Road map D3
A large campsite of tents, plus ∑ elmouradi.com Boulevard 14 Janvier, Khezema
activities such as camel rides, A beautiful property with a ∑ cesarhotel-sousse.com
quads, buggies and treks. private beach, a full spa and a Just steps from the beach, and
choice of three restaurants. enjoying splendid sea views, this
hotel is also close to the city.
DK Choice
KSAR GHILANE: Campement DK Choice SOUSSE: Thalassa
Yadis Ksar Ghilane  PORT ELKANTAOUI: Sousse Hotel 
Bedouin Tents Road map C6 Hasdrubal Thalassa  Resort Road map D3
Ksar Ghilane Resort Road map D2 Blvd. 7 Novembre, Sousse
Tel 75 621 870 No. 56 Tel 73 275 355
∑ yadis.com Tel 72 244 000 ∑ thalassa-hotels.com
Situated in the desert, among ∑ hasdrubal-thalassa.com Enormous resort with a massive
the palm groves, this idyllic Enjoy a game of golf or relax pool, a water park, a full spa and
camp offers 60 air-conditioned in the full spa at this four-star plenty of entertainment. Located
and comfortable tents made of property on a private beach. close to the beach.
stone and canvas. Each tent has Rooms have luxurious fabrics
an individual bathroom. There is and elegant design, while the
a restaurant, serving traditional restaurants offer both local
Tunisian specialities, and an out- and international fare. Djerba and the
door pool. Excursions, including Medenine Area
camel treks, can be arranged.
SFAX: Hôtel Ennacr  DJERBA: Le Beau Séjour 
Budget Road map D4 Budget Road map D5
MAHDIA: El-Medina  100 Rue des Notaires Zone Touristique, Sidi Mehrez
Budget Road map D3 Tel 74 211 037 Tel 75 757 368
Rue de l’Ancienne Port One of the best budget hotels Close to the beach, Le Beau
Tel 73 694 664 in the region, this is located near Séjour combines modern and
Clean rooms with shared bath- Bab Jebli. The owner might allow traditional Tunisian decor. It also
rooms in the heart of the medina, rooftop sleeping in the summer. has a garden with a pool.
just ten minutes from the beach.
MAHDIA: Mahdia Palace 

Luxury Road map D3
181, Zone Touristique
Tel 73 683 777
∑ mahdiapalacethalasso.com
Right next to the beach, this five-
star property has amenities such
as indoor pools and a full spa.
MATMATA: Marhala 
Boutique Road map D5
Off the Main Square
Tel 75 240 015
∑ hotel-marhala-matmata.federal-
hotel-tunisie.com
This underground troglodyte
hotel is warm and clean, though
bathrooms are shared. The expansive entrance hall at the Mahdia Palace, Mahdia
DJERBA: Jerba Sun Club 

Resort Road map D5
92 Zone Touristique
Tel 74 758 758
∑ jerbasunclub.tn
Enjoy direct access to the beach
at this hotel near the golf club.
Amenities include a large pool, a
full spa and several dining options.
DJERBA: Ksar Djerba 

Resort Road map E5
Zone Touristique, Midoun
Tel 75 732 060
Situated in the same area as the
El-Ghriba Synagogue, this hotel
has several pools and activities.
DJERBA: Dar Elbidha 

B&B Road map D5 The exterior of Odyssée, in Zarzis, reminiscent of a troglodyte village
Route de Ajim Djerba
Tel 20 772 210 DJERBA: Caribbean World the entire family, including
This traditional, smoke-free Thalasso Djerba  indoor and outdoor pools.
home situated just steps from Resort Road map E5 Stunningly dramatic
the beach has nautical design 76 Midoun architecture at the entrance,
with touches of Tunisian style. Tel 75 750 830 and modern, elegant lines in
Cool, simple lines and no-frills the guest rooms.
DJERBA: Hotel Green Palm  rooms. Close to the beach, with
Resort Road map E5 a large pool and lots of activities. DJERBA: Vincci Helios 
Zone Touristique, Midoun Resort Road map E5
Tel 75 747 043 DJERBA: Djerba 243, Midoun
∑ greenpalmdjerba.com Holiday Beach  Tel 75 745 110
This hotel with local architecture Resort Road map E5 ∑ vinccihoteles.com
and modern design features two 4179 Plage Sidi Mehrez, Midoun Large rooms, an extensive pool
pools and a full spa. It is located Tel 75 758 177 and sweeping sea views are on
5 km (3 miles) from the casino. Enjoy the activities or relax by the offer here, plus plenty of
pool at this child-friendly hotel entertainment and activities.
DJERBA: Hotel with something for everyone.
Olympic Djerba  MEDENINE: Hotel El Kssour 
Mid-Range Hotel Road map E5 Budget Road map D5
Avenue de la Liberté, Midoun DK Choice Place 7 Novembre
Tel 75 734 962 DJERBA: Hasdrubal Prestige Tel 75 643 879
∑ olympicdjerba.com Thalassa & Spa Djerba  This hotel is basic but pleasant –
Simple, friendly hotel in the city Luxury Road map E5 and central to everything.
centre, a short drive from the Plage Sidi Mehrez 12, Free Wi-Fi.
beach. Complimentary breakfast. Houmt Souk
Tel 75 759 259 ZARZIS: Zyen 
DJERBA: Les Jardins ∑ hasdrubal-thalassa.com Budget Road map E5
de Toumana  Room design ranges from bold Zone Touristique
Boutique Road map E5 and dramatic to light and airy Tel 75 706 630
Zone Touristique Djerba, Midoun here. There are great sea views, Perched on a hill overlooking
Tel 75 757 187 multiple restaurants and bars, the sea, this hotel is furnished
∑ toumana.com and a full spa. Camel rides and with local goods. Enjoy a chicha
Modern lines meet Tunisian style water sports can be arranged. and a mint tea in the restaurant.
at this charming guesthouse on
the beach. Full kitchenette.
DJERBA: Radisson Blu Ulysse DK Choice
DJERBA: Menzel Dija Resort & Thalasso  ZARZIS: Odyssée 
Appart-Hotel  Resort Road map E5 Boutique Road map E5
Mid-Range Hotel Road map E5 Route Touristique, 239, Midoun Zone Touristique, Sangho
416 Midoun Tel 75 758 777 Tel 75 705 705
Tel 75 745 233 ∑ radissonblu.com/resort- ∑ odyssee-resort.com/en/
The rooms are functional, but the thalasso-djerba The exterior of this hotel
grounds are fantastic, with lush Five-star hotel with excellent sea resembles a troglodyte village.
greenery, plus a private beach. views and an array of amenities. This property has direct access
to the beach, and activities
DJERBA: Villa Azur  DJERBA: Riu Palace vary from snorkelling to
Boutique Road map D5 Royal Garden  boating. A large pool snakes
91 Sidi Mehrez Resort Road map E5 all around the building, and
Tel 75 757 257 83, Zone Touristique Sidi Akkar, Midoun five restaurants offer a range
Views of the sea and a charming Tel 75 745 777 of cuisines. In addition, there is
welcome await at this hotel near ∑ riu.com entertainment and a full spa.
the golf course. This property has activities for
DK Choice
TAMERZA: Tamerza
Palace and Spa 
Luxury Road map A5
2212 Tamerza
Tel 76 485 344
∑ tamerza-palace.com
This hotel comes with high-end
rooms, a full spa and incredible
views over the desert valley. Ride
through the dunes on a camel,
enjoy a meal at the Berber
camp, or soak up the views over
the ruins from the pool. Open
from spring to late autumn.
Rustic charm and great views at Dar Hi, Nefta TATAOUINE: Hotel
Dakyanus Tataouine 
NEFTA: Dar Nefta  Budget Road map D6
Southern Tunisia Resort Road map A5 Route El Ferch 234
Zone Alasil Tel 75 832 199
DOUZ: Residence Tel 76 430 027 ∑ dakyanushotel.com
du 20 Mars  In addition to air conditioning Situated in the mountains, this
Budget Road map C6 and heating, this hotel has a spa hotel offers scheduled activities
Rue du 20 Mars and a pool. It is also possible to and three restaurants.
Tel 75 472 920 camp out in the garden.
This charming hotel has a small, TATAOUINE:
flower-filled courtyard. In NEFTA: Dar Houidi  Sangho Privilege 
addition to a warm welcome, it Boutique Road map A5 Boutique Road map D6
offers clean rooms with free Wi-Fi. ALGMA El-Hawaida Nefta 186 Route de Chenini el Farch
Tel 98 577 705 Tel 75 860 102
DOUZ: Hotel ∑ darhouidi-tourism.com ∑ sanghotataouine.com
Sahara Douz  This charming 17th-century Built in the style of a troglodyte
Historic Road map C6 home with a museum is run village, this hotel offers pleasant
47 Zone Touristique by an enthusiastic owner. It service. Not far from Chenini.
Tel 75 470 864 offers incredible views of
∑ saharadouz.com the desert. TOZEUR: Résidence Naifer 
Small hotel with a lovely terrace, Budget Road map B5
an excellent restaurant serving Place du 7 Novembre, Bab El-Hawa
local and international fare, and a DK Choice Tel 76 460 610
pool. Local artifacts and carvings NEFTA: Dar Hi  A spotless and friendly hotel
are on display at the entrance. Boutique Road map A5 near the bus station. The rooms
Quartier Ezzaouia facing the street can be noisy.
DOUZ: Mehari Douz  Tel 76 432 779
Resort Road map C6 ∑ dar-hi.net/en TOZEUR: Résidence
96 Zone Touristique Designed as an ecological el-Arish 
Tel 75 471 088 retreat, Dar Hi has great views Mid-Range Hotel Road map B5
∑ goldenyasmin.com/mehari- of the city and the countryside. Avenue Aboulkacem Chebbi
douz/en/ Rooms, located high up and Tel 76 460 344
Situated at the edge of the desert, with floor-to-ceiling windows, ∑ elarishtozeur.8m.com
this hotel features distinctive, are simple, with desert colours. Small but comfortable hotel
castle-like architecture. No TVs in the rooms, but there flanked by palm trees. Tea and
is a small communal theatre. chichas are served in the garden.
KEBILI: Les Dunes 
Bedouin Tents Road map C5 TOZEUR: Yadis Oasis Tozeur 
Bechri-Souq al-Had NEFTA: Dar Zargouni  Mid-Range Hotel Road map B5
Tel 75 480 715 Boutique Road map A5 Place des Martyrs, 16
Les Dunes is located about 20 km Route Sahara Palace Tel 76 452 300
(12 miles) from Kebili, towards Tel 76 432 660 ∑ yadis.com
Tozeur, in the lunar landscape of ∑ darzargouni.com Next to the palm groves, with a
the desert. A villa with beautiful architecture lovely façade but simple rooms.
and traditional Tunisian decor. Full spa and thalassotherapy.
KEBILI: Yadis Oasis
Kebili  TAMERZA: Les Cascades  TOZEUR: Ksar Jerid 
Resort Road map C5 Boutique Road map A5 Resort Road map B5
Route Touristique Kebili Village centre 201, Route de Nefta
Tel 75 491 436 Tel 76 485 332 Tel 76 454 357
∑ yadis.com An interesting property located ∑ hotelksarjerid.com
A luxury complex with a lovely in the palm groves and built out Amenities at this spotless hotel
exterior but slightly dated decor. of palm wood. Guests sleep in next to a palm grove include a
Breakfast is complimentary. small huts. Shared bathrooms. hammam. Wi-Fi is charged extra.
TOZEUR: Ras El Aïn  Located outside the city, this

Resort Road map B5 DK Choice farmhouse is for nature lovers
141 Zone Touristique KAIROUAN: Hotel and offers hiking trips. Rooms
Tel 76 462 095 de la Kasbah  are large and comfortable.
∑ ras-el-ain-hotel.com Resort Road map C3
Close to local attractions, the Ras Avenue Habib Bourguiba METLAOUI: Ennacim 
El Aïn offers a full spa and bar, as Tel 77 237 301 Budget Road map B5
well as indoor and outdoor pools. ∑ goldenyasmin.com On the road to Tozeur
Situated in the centre of the Tel 76 241 920
city, this sumptuous retreat in The entrance of this clean,
traditional style features rooms no-frills hotel features some
Central Tunisia decorated with luxurious fabrics interesting architecture.
and beautiful Kairouan rugs.
GAFSA: Hôtel Maamoun  There is also a full-service spa. METLAOUI: Seldja 
Budget Road map B4 Budget Road map B5
Place d’Afrique Gafsa Road
Tel 76 224 441 KASSERINE: Cillium  Tel 76 241 570
Not far from Gafsa’s market Budget Road map B3 Rooms here are comfortable
square, the Maamoun has clean Route de Feriana, by the Cillium ruins and clean. There is a bar, but
rooms and a rooftop pool. Tel 77 473 682 customers are mostly male.
Located on the outskirts of town,
GAFSA: Khalfallah  the Cillium has an appealing round SBEITLA: Hotel de la Jeunesse 
Budget Road map B4 structure with a central atrium. Budget Road map C3
44 Avenue Taieb Mehri 40 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
Tel 76 221 468 LE KEF: Les Pins  Tel 77 466 528
Pleasant hotel with friendly staff Budget Road map B2 Cheerful rooms, shared
and large rooms, although those On the road to Tunis bathrooms and a traditional
next to the street can be noisy. Tel 78 204 300 courtyard with a fountain.
∑ hotel-lespins.com
GAFSA: Jugurtha Palace  A small, well-maintained hotel SBEITLA: Sufetula 
Mid-Range Hotels Road map B4 that welcomes both tour groups Rooms with Views Road map C3
Cité Bourguiba and independent travellers. Km 2, Route de Kasserine 1250
Tel 76 211 200 Tel 77 465 311
∑ hoteljugurthapalace.com LE KEF: Ramzi  ∑ hotelsufetula.com
This Arab-Andalusian-style hotel Budget Road map B2 Cosy rooms and good views of
in a palm grove has numerous Rue Hedi Chaker the ruins from this hotel on a hill.
activities and five restaurants. Tel 78 203 079
The exterior is a little shabby, but
GAFSA: Hotel rooms are clean and en-suite. A DK Choice
Gafsa Palace  Continental breakfast is served. TEBOURSOUK: Thugga 
Resort Road map B4 Rooms with Views Road map B2
Route de Tunis LE KEF: Sicca Veneria  Main road
Tel 76 217 600 Budget Road map B2 Tel 78 466 647
∑ gafsapalace.com Le Kef Located near Dougga, one of
Traditional Tunisian design and Tel 78 202 389 Africa’s best-preserved and
sweeping views of the mountains, Large rooms (mostly en-suite) in largest Roman sites, this hotel
plus large rooms and a hammam. the heart of the city. Warm staff. offers clean, air-conditioned
rooms and fantastic views of
KAIROUAN: Amina  LE KEF: Dar Chennoufi  the ruins and the countryside.
Budget Road map C3 Mid-Range Hotels Road map B2 There are ruins all over the
Avenue des Nations Unies Kef Westia grounds, too. The large dining
Tel 72 274 555 Tel 98 327 971 hall serves excellent food.
∑ hotelamina.com.tn ∑ dar.chennoufi.com
Close to the city centre, the
Amina features a pleasant, simple
design, with spacious rooms.
KAIROUAN: Sabra 
Budget Road map C3
Rue Ali Balhouane, Place des Martyrs
Tel 77 230 263
Located at the entrance to the
medina, the Sabra has clean
rooms and shared bathrooms
with plenty of hot water.
KAIROUAN: Splendid 
Mid-Range Hotel Road map C3
Rue du 9 Avril
Tel 77 227 522
Close to the medina, this charming
hotel offers a quiet retreat. A large
breakfast is included in the price. The pool at Hotel de la Kasbah, Kairouan
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

From upmarket European-style restaurants good-quality, authentic cuisine. Be aware
to street-side food stalls, Tunisia caters to that most Tunisian stews and sauces in
most tastes and budgets. An excellent way to traditional cafés are made with harissa, a
enjoy Tunisian food is in the local cafés. The fiery condiment that usually appears on the
spicy Tunisian cuisine served in many of table without anyone asking for it. Most
these places often tastes better than in food can be served without it upon request.
expensive hotels, although more and more Alcohol is largely unavailable, and those
well-trained Tunisian chefs creating fusion restaurants that do serve it tend to be
dishes are emerging. There is no need to be pricier. The restaurants on pages 266–81 are
afraid of eating in small local eateries, since recommended for their standard of service,
they are almost uniformly clean and offer quality of ingredients and value for money.
Salons de thé are ideal for a light

snack with tea or coffee, a perfect
pick-me-up after sight seeing.
Hotels, especially those catering
for package groups, offer
“international cuisine”, as well
as tamer versions of Tunisia’s
spicy stews.
Booking and Reservations

Most Tunisian restaurants do
not have fixed landlines or
dedicated websites and, with Inside the popular Café M’Rabet in Souk
the exception of top restaurants, et-Trouk, Tunis (see p267)
they do not take reservations.
If on your travels you see a the steam and flavour from the
Le Royal, a renowned seafood restaurant in restaurant that you would like stew bubbling below.
Gabès (see p273) to eat in, it is worth telling the Another very tasty dish is
staff in person that you will be kamounia, an aromatic meat
Types of Restaurant returning at a later time or date. dish made of beef or lamb that
Simple meals of fish, meat and is cooked with plenty of cumin
vegetables are readily available and other spices. The most
in small, inexpensive restaurants, What to Eat popular dishes in the coastal
and bread is served at no extra The traditional Tunisian dish is region are grilled octopus and
charge. Tourist restaurants, which couscous, which is made from prawns, and poisson complet
have been inspected and graded semolina and served with (a whole fish).
by the country’s tourist author- chunky stewed vegetables, meat The most common Tunisian
ities, offer a choice of cuisines, or fish in a hot tomato sauce. snack is the brik à l’oeuf (see
including traditional Tunisian, Couscous is placed above the p262). Also popular is fricassée,
European and Asian, so there pot and cooks slowly in a which consists of a fried, bun-
are plenty of dining options. coucoussier by absorbing all of like bread filled with egg, tuna
and harissa. Tunisian pizza is
usually made in large trays and
often topped with chunks of
tuna. Tuna is also served with
the popular salade tunisienne
(lettuce, olives, tomatoes,
cucumber and a hard-boiled
egg). Even more common is the
spicy salade mechouia (see p263).
Cheap and filling soups are
part of the staple diet in Tunisia.
Of all the varieties, lablabi is the
most common and is made
from chickpeas, bread, spices,
Tables set up for alfresco dining at El Asfour, Mahdia (see p274) tuna and harissa. Sometimes it
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 261
than 1 TD, while in a tourist- restaurants that cater for tourists.

zone restaurant it may cost Once the fast has been broken
3 TD or more. A dish of each evening, it is fairly easy to
couscous will cost about 4 TD find a restaurant that serves a
in a local restaurant, while a Ramadan dinner called iftar.
hotel may charge as much as After dinner, many families
10 TD for virtually the same attend parties. Most cafés open
dish. It is best to buy drinks their doors until the small hours
from a shop. The lowest prices of the morning to accommodate
are found in supermarkets; in the number of people partaking
small shops the cost is normally in the festivities.
10 to 20 per cent higher.
Vegetarians
Hygiene Being a vegetarian is easy in
Tourist restaurants have stringent Tunisia. There are even many
The polished ambience at Dar hygiene rules. Local cafés and popular dishes that are vegan.
Boumakhlouf, in Le Kef (see p281) restaurants are also usually Wherever you choose to eat
clean and tidy, as are the small out, it is also always worth ask-
has a partially cooked egg pavement restaurants. For the ing what specials are available
cracked on top, and it can also first few days of your visit, how- that day, since they may include
include spicy pickled vegetables ever, it is best to avoid eating even more vegetarian options.
and olives. Spicier soups are raw fruit and vegetables, since
usually a red colour and can they can cause stomach upsets.
include pasta, grains, vegetables, It’s also advisable to drink Recommended
beef and chicken stock or fish. bottled water only. Restaurants
Bread (khobz) is a staple of the The restaurants listed in this
Tunisian diet and is served guidebook have been selected
with every meal. Common Ramadan based on a wide range of
breads include a baguette, During Ramadan, the ninth criteria and to provide a wealth
or a thick French bread month of the Islamic of choices for various dining
(khobza), khobz tabouna calendar, Tunisians fast experiences – from delicious
(thick and flat bread) from sunrise until sunset. seafood served in Lake Tunis
and mlawi (grilled Compulsory for all able- or mouthwatering French
flat bread). Khobz bodied Muslims, the cuisine prepared by a Michelin
halou (sweet bread fast is strictly observed, chef in Sidi Bou Saïd, to
made with semolina) and many local traditional Tunisian cuisine
is also delicious. restaurants and cafés overlooking the ruins of Sbeïtla
remain closed. Some or street food sold on the coast
restaurants remain on Djerba. Particular attention
Opening Hours A pitta bread vendor open but with a has been paid to regional
Cafés are usually open in Kairouan smaller menu specialities (see pp262–3).
from 8 or 9am until available. Tunisians Establishments labelled
about 10pm. In small towns are not normally too concerned DK Choice have been selected
they close a little earlier, but in if tourists eat and drink during because they are outstanding
large cities they commonly stay Ramadan, but it is polite not to in some way. They may serve
open until midnight. Some eat, drink or smoke in public unmissable local food, be located
cafés are open 24 hours a day. places during the fast. Large in a wonderful setting or offer
Restaurants, on the other towns usually have a few fantastic value for money.
hand, tend to open from 10 or
11am and close between 10
and 11pm.
Prices
There is a great difference
between the prices charged
by hotels and tourist
restaurants, and those in small
establishments frequented
by Tunisians. Meals in local
restaurants are considerably
cheaper. In a local restaurant or
café, a brik à l’oeuf will cost less Nuts and pulses for sale in the market in Nabeul
The Flavours of Tunisia

Tunisian cuisine is an amalgam of traditional Berber cooking with
influences from the many civilizations that ruled the country over
the centuries: Phoenician, Roman, Arab, Turkish and French. Bread is
a staple, eaten with every meal, from a French baguette to tabouna,
an unleavened country bread baked in a domed clay oven.
A Tunisian saying holds that a husband can tell how much his
wife loves him by the amount of chilli pepper she uses in his
food – if dinner has no heat, her ardour has also cooled.
Tunisians certainly like their food fiery, but they will usually cut
back on the spicy seasonings to spare more sensitive palates. Tub of harissa paste
most popular varieties are kamoun (cumin). Squid and

rouget (red mullet), daurade cuttlefish are deep-fried in
(sea bream), sole, loup de mer batter. Poisson complet may
(sea bass), maquereau be a whole large fish or a
(mackerel), sardine, merou selection of smaller ones,
(grouper), calamar (squid), fried or grilled, served with
crevettes (prawns), poulpe fries and tastira, a sauce of
(octopus) and thon (tuna). Fish grilled chillies, tomato, onion
is usually simply grilled and and garlic. Sfax and Djerba
served with olive oil and are famous for their seafood
lemon, or baked with lots of specialities.
Sea bass Grey mullet Red Prawns

Octopus
mullet Sole
A date farmer with his harvest at Mussels
the oasis of Tozeur
The Coast
Tunisia has a long coastline
dotted with fishing ports,
so there is always a rich supply
of exceptionally fresh fish and
seafood, a mainstay of the
Tunisian diet. Fish is then usually
priced by weight in restaurants
(and can be expensive) and is
cooked to order. Among the Range of seafood found in the clear waters of the Tunisian coast
Tunisian Dishes and Specialities

Of all Tunisian specialities, undoubtedly the
most prominent is couscous. It was
originally the food of the native
Berbers who called it k’seksu.
Fine semolina grains are
traditionally rolled in flour,
then dried in the sun
to help preserve them
through the winter. When
needed, they are steamed in a
Fresh figs couscoussière, a special two-tiered pan
in which the stew cooking below steams
the couscous above. Tunisians like a spicy couscous with a hot Brik a l’oeuf is a deep-fried
peppery marga, a stew of tomato paste, vegetables, chicken, lamb parcel of filo pastry filled with
or beef and especially fish. The couscous is often served with a potato, shrimps, cheese or
bowl of harissa on the side. mince, and a soft-cooked egg.
Restaurants often serve a mix

of traditional Tunisian fare, such
as couscous and tajine, and
old-fashioned French classics
like grilled calf’s liver, boeuf
bourguignon and steak tartare.
Others offer a wider range of
traditional dishes, such as
koucha, lamb with potatoes in a
tomato sauce. Both the French
and the Turks left behind them
a legacy of delicious desserts
and pastries, and many pastry
Spices of many colours and aromas in a Tunisian market shops sell a range of European
and Eastern sweets.
The Interior French influence is particularly
Inland, meat is important to the strong. A popular snack is the TUNISIAN SWEETS
local diet. In the Tunisian home, casse-croûte; technically a
the main course is usually a sandwich with any filling Baklava A Turkish sweet. Filo
spicy meat stew with couscous, you wish, it is commonly a pastry layered with chopped
nuts, sugar and butter, baked
buckwheat, pasta or beans. In French baguette with harissa
and soaked in honey syrup.
local restaurants it is more often (the ubiquitous hot, spicy chilli
grilled meat, such as beef sauce), vegetables, olives, oil Bouza A rich, sticky sorghum
steak, lamb chops or brochettes and a chunk of tuna, as is cream, served in Ramadan.
(kebabs). In Tunis, during the fricassée, fried bread. Kâk Less sweet than other
hunting season, you might pastries. A delicate almond
find sanglier (wild boar) on paste wrapped in filo.
the menu for visitors, though Makroud A fried semolina
Muslims do not eat it. In the pastry stuffed with date paste.
south, particularly in Tozeur, A speciality of Kairouan.
you may be served camel Mhalbya A rice, nut and
meat, which can be delicious. geranium-water cake.
Fertile plains are the source
Mille feuille French-inspired,
of excellent vegetables, and
baked filo pastry layered with
fruit such as figs, dates,
custard cream and then iced.
pomegranates and citrus.
Samsa Filo filled with ground
roast almonds and sesame
City Cuisine seeds in rosewater syrup.
The main cities, Tunis in Yoyo A doughnut made with
particular, are where the orange juice, deep-fried and
melting pot of Tunisian culinary Piles of sweet, sticky baklava on display in then dipped in honey syrup.
history comes to the fore. The a city pastry shop
Couscous au poisson, a Salade mechouia, chargrilled Tajine, in Tunisia, is similar

Tunisian favourite, is topped chillies, tomatoes and onions, to frittata with meat and
with grilled fish – red or grey is served with tuna and hard- vegetables, quite different
mullet are preferred. boiled egg. from a Moroccan tagine.
What to Drink
The most popular Tunisian beverage is coffee, which is drunk
often and everywhere. Meals are usually accompanied by
tap or mineral water as well as all kinds of fizzy drinks
(known as gazouz), including the big-name brands as
well as local products. Although a Muslim country,
Tunisia produces good wines, both red and white, an
interesting liqueur and one brand of home-brewed
beer called Celtia. Brightly coloured fruit syrups, diluted
with water, are also available. Fruit juices are sold in many A decorative coffee brewing set
resorts in the summer.
Tea
Mint tea is popular in Tunisia. Granulated black or green tea is
stewed slowly, with a large amount of sugar and fresh mint
(honey may be used in place of sugar), until it produces a dark
infusion. This is poured from a pot into small glasses, from a
height, so as to create a froth. Fresh mint leaves, pine nuts,
almonds or pistachios are sometimes added to this. Tunisian tea
is strong and aromatic and is not to
everyone’s taste, though it is thought
by Tunisians to assist the
digestion. Tea is not often
served with milk, apart
from in the larger hotels
or tourist centres and
even these may use UHT
in place of fresh milk.
A waiter pouring mint tea from a height to A glass of mint tea A packet of
produce a froth green tea
Coffee
Tunisians are dedicated coffee drinkers and can spend a long time over a small cup
of coffee as they contemplate the world passing by. Every small café and even the
most humble local bars can serve an excellent espresso. It is often served with small
shortbread or date biscuits. The coffee is strong, but is not always offered with water,
as it is in many countries. Coffee in Tunisia is normally served in small glasses.
Anyone wanting a larger cup of slightly weaker coffee with milk can order a café
Strong, black coffee direct or café crème (similar to a cappuccino) or a café au lait (a filter coffee with milk).
Other popular types include coffee with condensed
milk (Capucin nouveau) and Turkish coffee (qahwa
arbi). This strong, sweet brew is made by boiling the
coffee and is served with the fine grounds, which
settle to the bottom.
Coffee with milk
Mineral Water
Unlike many African countries, tap water is clean in Tunisia and can
be safely drunk anywhere in larger towns. Its taste, however, leaves
a lot to be desired and many people prefer to drink bottled water,
which is cheap and readily available. The most popular mineral
water – Safia – is produced in plain and sparkling versions (the
latter is usually sold in glass bottles). They both taste good and
should be considered indispensable when travelling around the
country. In summer, a bottle of mineral water should always be
taken on sightseeing tours of archaeological sites and open-air Water in Safia
museums to avoid the risk of dehydration. large bottles bottled water
Beer
Tunisia has only one brand of home-brewed beer – Celtia – which is
produced on licence from Stella Artois and Lowenbrau. It is slightly
less potent than European beers, but it tastes good nevertheless. It is
usually only available in major supermarkets, and is sold in bottles or in
red-and-white cans. Some restaurants serve beer in bottles but prices
tend to be higher than there are at restaurants that do not serve
alcohol. The more expensive restaurants and hotels offer
foreign beers to their guests, but even here the choice
is limited. The most
easily available are the
popular brands of
German, Danish and
Dutch beer.
Celtia in a bottle Celtia in a can

Wine
Tunisia has been producing wine for 2,000 years.
New varieties of grape were introduced in the
1990s and in 2002 an even wider range of wines
was launched, including the Château Saint
Augustin. Wine is produced in several regions.
These include Cap Bon in the north, especially
around Grombalia and Mornag, and in the vicinity
of Jendouba in the west. Red wines include
Château Feriani, Coteaux d’Utique, Château Defleur
and Lambolt. Noteworthy among rosé varieties
are Tyna, Koudiat and Château Saint Augustin
Princess Elissa. The white Coteaux de Carthage is
Red wine Rosé wine White wine also very good.
Vodkas and Liqueurs

The only strong alcoholic beverage produced in
Tunisia is boukha – a clear spirit made from figs. It
contains 40 per cent alcohol and resembles a dry
fruit-flavoured vodka. It is often served with fizzy
cola. Laghmi is a palm wine that is fermented for 24
hours. It is not sold in shops, but it can be obtained
from one of the oases during the palm season.
Another alternative is Thibarine, a liqueur derived
from dates and herbs that is produced in the village
of Thibar (near Dougga)
according to a secret
recipe handed down by
French monks. Cedratine,
a liqueur made from
lemons, is also popular.
Boukha, made Thibarine, made Cedratine, made

from figs from dates from lemons
Local Beverages
The Tunisians produce their own kinds of fizzy drink
which are sold alongside brand names such as Coca-
Cola and Pepsi. The most popular of these is Boga,
which comes in several varieties, including citrus-
flavoured Boga Lim and Boga Cidre, which is cola-
coloured and has a distinctive carob flavour. Also
popular are syrups that must be diluted with water.
Sparkling Boga Sweet dark Flavours include pomegranate and rose essence. Fresh orange
Boga Fresh fruit juices are widely available. juice
Where to Eat and Drink

Carcassonne  Price Guide
Tunis Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 Prices are based on a three-course meal
for one, excluding alcohol, and inclusive
8 Avenue de Carthage
 of tax and service charge.
Abid The dishes on Carcassonne’s
Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 small menu are simple, but  up to 15 TD
99 Rue de Yougoslavie tasty and cheap. The clientele  15 TD to 25 TD
 over 25 TD
Tel 71 257 052 is made up mostly of locals.
Situated in downtown Tunis,
this small restaurant offers Chez Salem  Restaurant Pastacaza 
gastronomic specialities from Patisserie Road map C1 Traditional Tunisian Road map C1
the Sfax area. The food is spicy, Rue de l’Hôpital Militaire, 4 Rue du Caire
filling and cheap, and it is best El Omrane France Ville Tel 71 996 341
enjoyed with a traditional cup of While Chez Salem offers meals Specializing in the cuisine of
strong Sfaxian coffee. throughout the day, it is Sfax, Pastacaza offers a unique
mostly renowned for its ice selection of dishes that is seldom
Al-Mazar  cream and pastries. The house seen in other restaurants in the
Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 speciality is a pastry tube filled capital. Try the rabbit with rice, or
11 Rue de Marseille with ricotta cheese, pistachios the mlokhia (a soup made from
Tel 71 340 423 and cream. jute leaves).
This quaint establishment re-
creates the lounge vibe of a Latino  Tontonville 
Parisian bar. It also provides a Café Road map C1 Traditional Tunisian Road map C1
selection of dishes – in particular, Rue Ghandi 96 Rue de Yougoslavie
the harissa is excellent. Tel 71 331 745 Tel 71 253 918
Latino is a café-restaurant serving Hidden behind thick drapes and
Café Ezzitouna  sandwiches, pasta dishes, pizzas with largely unremarkable decor,
Café Road map C1 and delicious sweet treats. Open Tontonville offers an extensive
Rue Jemaa Zaytouna all day long, it handily accepts range of alcoholic drinks.
Located in the medina, just before credit cards. Highlights on the food menu
the mosque, this café provides include fish dishes and the
good, strong coffee and chichas, Mahdaoui  house speciality: grilled salad.
making it the ideal spot to put Traditional Tunisian Road map C1
your feet up after a morning spent 2 Rue Jema Zaytouna Closed Sun El Ali Resto and
shopping in the souks. It is Open for lunch alone, Mahdaoui Café Culturel 
frequented by local Tunisians. occupies a lovely spot – a cluster Traditional Tunisian Road map C1
of tables and chairs set up on an 45 Bis Rue Jemaa Zitouna
Le Capitole  alley next to the Zaytoun Mosque. Tel 71 321 927 Closed Sun
Traditional Tunisian/ The menu is simple and tradi- Located in the medina and
French Road map C1 tional, consisting of couscous, spread over two floors, El Ali
Avenue Habib Bourguiba lamb and chicken. Resto and Café Culturel is a
Tel 71 256 601 great stop for music lovers, who
This restaurant sits on one of Restaurant Les 3 Étoiles  can enjoy a well-cooked steak
Tunis’s busiest streets. The Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 while watching emerging talent
menu offers both Tunisian Rue Mustafa M’barek perform. The decor is clean and
and French specialities, with a The food at this tiny, no-frills modern, and the first floor is
large dessert menu. Mint tea is eatery, with plastic chairs and the perfect place to curl up with
served after each meal. It is an tables, is excellent and cheap. a book.
excellent choice for travellers on Don’t miss the grilled salad
a budget. and couscous. Andalous 
Oriental Road map C1
13 Rue de Marseille
Tel 71 241 756 Closed Sun
Andalous is a little restaurant
boasting a charming decor of
wooden walls and arches,
giving it a decidedly Moroccan
vibe. Diners can enjoy meat
and seafood dishes, along with
great service.
El Bolero 
Spanish Road map C1
6 Passage El-Guattar
Tel 71 255 928
Situated on a tiny alley, El Bolero
is a cosy restaurant specializing
in Spanish cuisine. While there
are many options on the
menu, the seafood paella is
Enjoying tea and a chicha at Dar Hamouda Pacha, Tunis (see p267) particularly recommended.
Café de Paris 
Brasserie Road map C1
Avenue Habib Bourguiba
Tel 71 240 583 Closed Sun
Those heading for Café de Paris,
be sure to bring your appetite,
as this place serves generous
portions of Italian, French and
Tunisian fare. There is an all-male
bar next door.
Capri 
Café Road map C1
34 Rue Mokhtar Attia
Tel 71 257 695
A popular spot for businessmen,
Capri is located in the heart of The refined dining room at Dar El Jeld restaurant, Tunis
downtown Tunis. The menu
is mainly seafood, and there is Dar Slah 
also a range of alcoholic drinks. Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 DK Choice
Smoking is popular here. 145 Rue de la Kasbah Dar El Jeld 
Tel 71 261 026 Closed Sun Traditional Tunisian
Le Carthage  This charming two-storey Road map C1
Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 restaurant provides an oasis 5 Rue Dar El Jeld
10 Rue Ali Bach Hamba of calm on a busy street. The Tel 71 560 916 Closed Sun
Tel 71 255 614 Closed Sun menu changes daily, but it Dar El Jeld serves up a range
Le Carthage is situated in the always features local delicacies, of Tunisian dishes, presented
centre of Tunis and offers including nswassar, a rarely found in a spectacular, sumptuous
several traditional dishes, dish made out of thin, flat pasta. way, amid elegant decor. Live
including a particularly popular traditional music will add to
couscous. Sip a coffee and enjoy Fondouk El Attarine  your dining experience; just
the ambience. Salon de Thé Road map C1 make sure you reserve well
Souk al Attarine in advance. The building
Tel 71 322 224 also houses a gift shop.
DK Choice Weave your way through the
Dar Bel Hadj  souk to find this salon de thé in
Traditional Tunisian the heart of the medina. This is a Espace Bouabana
Road map C1 pleasant, calm space in which to et El Mazar 
17 Rue des Tamis sip coffee or tea and enjoy local Traditional Tunisian/
Tel 71 200 894 Closed Sun pastries. In the evenings it can be Mediterranean Road map C1
Housed in an expansive rented for private gatherings. 11 Bis Rue de Marseille
mansion in the heart of the Tel 71 355 077
old medina, Dar Bel Hadj offers Margaritas  Offering a setting that is both
tantalizing food (the fish kebab Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 family-friendly and romantic
is particularly recommended) 3 Rue el-Koufa enough for a dinner for two,
in a luxurious setting featuring Tel 71 240 632 Closed Sun this little hot spot is a popular
rugs, tiled walls, suffused Good food at low prices and with place for artists and intellectuals.
lighting and Arabic music. lots of atmosphere, Margaritas is On the menu are Tunisian and
a great place to while away an Mediterranean specialities.
evening. Wash down the excellent
Tunisian dishes with the Hong Kong 
restaurant’s namesake cocktail. Chinese Road map C1
Avenue Taieb M’hiri 85, Tunis
Orient  Belvédère
Seafood Road map C1 Tel 71 787 957
Rue Ali Bach Hamba If you need a break from
Tel 71 252 061 Tunisian cuisine, this is the
This charming restaurant features place to visit. Hong Kong serves
Andalusian-style decor, with tall authentic Asian dishes with a
ceilings, arches and swords. There particular focus on China.
are Tunisian specialities on the Menu highlights include
menu, but their forte is seafood. traditional sweet-and-sour
beef or duck.
Dar Hamouda Pacha 
Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 M’Rabet 
56 Rue Sidi ben Arous Traditional Tunisian Road map C1
Tel 71 566 584 Souk et-Trouk Closed Sun
This restaurant, in a former Situated behind the Zaytoun
bey’s palace, serves mostly Mosque, this restaurant offers
specialities from the Sfax region. lovely views of the building. It is
Enjoy couscous and lamb, popular with large groups, but
The elegant decor at El Ali Resto and Café then end with a chicha and a independent travellers are always
Culturel, Tunis (see p266) Turkish coffee. welcome, as are local artists.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 260
ENNASR:
Restaurant Origami 
Japanese Road map C1
Avenue Heedi Nouira Nasr
Tel 71 818 314 Closed Mon
Experience authentic Japanese
cuisine in the heart of Ennasr.
Start your meal with a soup or
some caviar and continue with
sushi or a main course served
with rice. Finish with a green tea.
GAMMARTH:
Café Le Journal 
Café Road map C1
6 Rue Hannibal
Tel 29 323 288
The menu at this off-the-beaten-
Waiter at the entrance of Sidi Bouhdid, on Hammamet’s seafront (see p269) track café features sandwiches,
pizzas, burgers and salads, plus
Restaurant Chez Nous  CARTHAGE: hot drinks, juices and pastries.
International Road map C1 Restaurant Tchevap  There is a lot of outdoor seating,
5 Rue de Marseille International Road map C1 too, for alfresco dining.
Tel 71 243 043 Closed Sun 52 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
At this favourite haunt of local Tel 20 155 733 GAMMARTH:
businessmen, the cuisine really is This restaurant on the main Restaurant Le Cap 
international – Italian pasta , thoroughfare in Carthage offers International Road map C1
Mediterranean specialities and friendly service in a charming Zone Touristique de Cap Gammarth
French steaks. The walls of the setting. The menu has an Tel 71 274 000 or 28 735 100
dining room are lined with international flavour, with a bias Situated between a dense forest
photos of celebrities. towards Italian specialities. and the beach, this restaurant
serves elegant meals in a modern
La Salle à Manger  EL-HAOUARIA: interior or in relaxed outdoor
French Road map C1 La Daurade  comfort. There are multiple
3 Rue Imam Sahnoun Belvédère Seafood Road map D1 dining rooms (La Brasserie,
Tel 71 793 283 Al Huwariyah Le Lounge, Le Tapas) – each
Excellent French cuisine is served Tel 72 269 080 offering a different speciality.
at this convivial restaurant Set in a quiet location next to the
frequented by Tunis’s elite. Start ancient stone quarries, GAMMARTH:
with the house speciality, the La Daurade specializes in fish Restaurant Les Dunes 
duck, but be sure to leave room and seafood. Each table boasts International Road map C1
for dessert, as the puddings here spectacular views of the sea. 130 Avenue Taieb M’Hiri
are highly recommended. Tel 20 155 733
EL-HAOUARIA: Italian food is the driving force
Le Pêcheur  behind the menu at Les Dunes,
Seafood Road map D1 but there are also options from
Greater Tunis and Plage Sud, El Haouaria Cap Bon several other cuisines. Enjoy
Cap Bon Peninsula Tel 72 297 120 your meal alfresco, while taking
Le Pêcheur, located right on in the views of Gammarth Bay.
CARTHAGE: Calcutta the beach, offers a range of
Restaurant Golden Tulip  seafood specialities, including GAMMARTH: Restaurant
Indian Road map C1 a fish of the day. Diners enjoy Le Grand Bleu 
Avenue de la Promenade, fantastic views of the sea and Seafood Road map C1
La Marsa traditional entertainment. Avenue Taieb M’Hiri
Tel 50 524 003 or 71 913 000 Tel 71 913 900
The Calcutta Restaurant is Perched high above the city, Le
located in the Golden Tulip DK Choice Grand Bleu boasts superb views
Residence. As well as pleasant ENNASR: Le Bambou  of the Mediterranean Sea. Diners
decor and impeccable service, Fusion Road map C1 here can enjoy a variety of elegant
it is renowned for providing Avenue Hédi Nouira Ennasr II dishes served in sumptuous
authentic Indian cuisine, often Tel 70 831 534 or 23 690 602 surroundings. The fish is a must.
with a contemporary twist. Go to Le Bambou for delicious
and creative Asian-fusion HAMMAMET: Resto Vert 
CARTHAGE: food. The North Korean cook International Road map D2
Le Gavroche  prepares excellent dishes Avenue de la République
International Road map C1 from the Far East, including Tel 72 278 200
2 Avenue Pline Korean and Chinese specialities. Popular with the local trendy
Tel 71 733 438 or 26 024 696 The decor is modern, and the set, this spot delivers light meals
Situated in central Carthage, terrace provides an excellent such as salads, tajines, brik à l’oeuf
Le Gavroche has a pleasant view of the hustle and bustle (pastry envelope with a cooked
atmosphere and serves refined in the street. After dinner, tea egg) and crêpes. Some pasta
international cuisine in intimate is served. dishes are also served. The decor
surroundings. Good service, too. is simple but not unpleasant.
HAMMAMET: Berbère is an upscale restaurant has a resort vibe and offers

Sidi Bouhdid  specializing in Greek and breakfast, lunch and dinner in a
Café Road map D2 Mediterranean food. In addition comfortable setting with
La Medina Arabe to the clean, modern decor, excellent views.
Tel 72 280 040 Closed Apr–Sep there is a rooftop lounge and a
Located in the kasbah, next to plethora of choices for drinks, KELIBIA: El Mansourah 
the sea, Sidi Bouhdid combines including cocktails. Seafood Road map D1
fantastic views and cool breezes El Mansourah Plage
with a menu of sandwiches, HAMMAMET: Tel 72 295 169
pizzas and crêpes. There is also a Chez Achour  El Mansorah, found on a beautiful
long list of drinks. Traditional Tunisian Road map D2 and tranquil beach, presents
Rue Ali Belhouane diners with a varied menu, but it
HAMMAMET: Belle Vue  Tel 72 280 140 specializes in seafood and steaks.
Traditional Tunisian Road map D2 Dine inside, in the rustically
Avenue Habib Bourguiba decorated rooms, or outside, on LAKE TUNIS: The Aquatic
Tel 72 280 825 a terrace sheltered by parasols Restaurant & Salon de Thé 
Belle Vue offers options ranging during the day and lit by white Seafood Road map C1
from fish and seafood to grilled lanterns after dark. Choose your Rue du Lac Biwa
meats and pasta dishes. Their own fish at the counter or try the Tel 71 960 138
speciality, however, is couscous, roast lamb (note that this dish Situated next to Lake Tunis,
of which they serve four different must be ordered in advance). The Aquatic has excellent lake
versions – all delicious. views, a modern decor and a
HAMMAMET: sumptuous menu. The French
HAMMAMET: La Brise  Les Trois Moutons  chef specializes in unique
Street Food Road map D2 Seafood Road map D2 seafood creations that blend
Avenue de la République 6 Avenue Habib Bouguiba flavours for a truly fantastic
Tel 72 280 023 Tel 23 010 020 or 22 604 624 culinary experience.
Enjoy a budget meal with great Choose from a variety of fish
flavours at this small eatery, and seafood dishes or dine on LAKE TUNIS:
where diners can sit inside or the lobster speciality at this Buddha Lounge 
out while savouring traditional simple, cosy restaurant with Café Road map C1
fare such as grilled lamb and friendly and competent staff. Rue du Lac Biwa
hearty soups. Open from October Tel 98 359 907
to March. HAMMAMET: Le Voiliers  The Buddha Lounge is a fun little
Seafood Road map D2 café just off the main road in
HAMMAMET: La Scala Marina, Yasmine Hammamet Lake Tunis. Open from breakfast
di Milano  Tel 72 240 522 to dinner, it provides a variety of
Italian Road map D2 The decor at Le Voiliers is modern café food and, in the evening, a
Corniche and clean, with light-coloured clubby vibe.
Tel 77 280 768 paint on the ceiling for a touch
La Scala di Milano was the favour- of ambience. Seafood is popular LAKE TUNIS: Midway 
ite Tunisian restaurant of the late, here, with lobster the house Café Road map C1
disgraced Italian Prime Minister speciality; however, they also Rue du Lac Biwa
Bettino Craxi, and there is a shrine make juicy steaks. Tel 28 700 000
dedicated to him here. Feast on A bustling café, Midway is often
pasta specialities or fish dinners. KELIBIA: Le Marin  packed inside – thankfully, it
Seafood Road map D1 has an extensive outdoor area.
HAMMAMET: Berbère  Kelibia Plage Arrive early to grab a good seat.
Mediterranean Road map D2 Tel 72 208 072 Water pipes and coffee are the
Place des Martyrs Le Marin is a restaurant-café specialities, although the pizzas
Tel 72 280 082 located directly on the beach. It are also good.
DK Choice
LAKE TUNIS:
Le Diamant Bleu 
Seafood Road map C1
Rue du Lac Biwa
Tel 71 962 040
Le Diamant Bleu boasts a
premium location right next to
Lake Tunis. It has an open-air
environment, with live music
and dancing, and an array of
delicious dishes. Reasonably
priced for what it provides, the
restaurant specializes in seafood,
and highlights include an
authentic Marseille bouillabaisse.
There is also an extensive
cocktail menu. Great place for
an atmospheric evening.
A plate of traditional Tunisian couscous topped with fish and vegetables
LA GOULETTE: Café Vert  LA MARSA: Turkish Grill  NABEUL: Al-Bahja 

Seafood Road map C1 Turkish Road map C1 Traditional Tunisian Road map D2
68 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt La Balhuwena 38 Avenue Habib Thameur
Tel 71 736 156 Tel 94 458 973 The Algerian owner of this tiny
Like most restaurants in La Authentic Turkish cuisine restaurant is a convivial host who
Goulette, Café Vert specializes awaits at this restaurant in always makes his clientele feel at
in seafood. Diners are charged downtown La Marsa. The fare ease. The decor is basic, and the
by weight for the fish they here ranges from barbecued food is simple but delicious.
choose at the counter. meats to sandwiches, plus,
of course, succulent doner NABEUL: Café Errachidia 
LA GOULETTE: Lido  kebabs. Turkish Grill is open Salon de Thé Road map D2
Seafood Road map C1 daily for lunch and dinner. Next to the souk
20 Rue Ali Bach Hamba Café Errachidia is located next to
Tel 71 738 045 one of Nabeul’s largest souks.
The Hotel Lido offers two DK Choice Take a break from haggling and
dining options: a relaxed café LA MARSA: Weld El Bey  stop by for a mint tea or a water
and a restaurant where one Street Food Road map C1 pipe, relaxing in the open setting
can order fresh fish at lunch Rue Naceur Bey overlooking the street.
or dinner. Finish your meal Tel 71 744 014
with a refreshing mint tea. In the heart of La Marsa, this NABEUL:
small eatery has been open Restaurant Les Arcades 
LA GOULETTE: Lucullus  for almost a century. On the Traditional Tunisian Road map D2
Seafood Road map C1 menu is Tunisian fast food, 56 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
29 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt including a variety of Tel 72 286 997
Tel 29 400 001 sandwiches and salads. Warm and lively, Les Arcades
Lucullus specializes in seafood Seasonally, there is also a high- welcomes diners to relax and
dishes, although their steaks end leblebii (spiced, roasted enjoy a meal after visiting the
are also of excellent quality. The chickpeas) and fricassée meats. nearby Archaeology Museum.
service is fast and pleasant, and Weld El Bey is renowned for its The house special is the couscous
the decor warm and friendly. cleanliness and friendly staff. royal. Desserts include deliciously
sweet crêpes.
LA GOULETTE:
Le Monte Carlo  LA MARSA: La Focaccia  NABEUL: Le Patio 
Seafood Road map C1 Italian Road map C1 International Road map D2
4 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt 2078 Ariana 19 Avenue Marbella
Tel 71 735 338 Tel 25 827 007 Tel 72 233 433
The decor is simple at this little Located on a busy street in At this family-style restaurant,
seafood restaurant that enjoys La Marsa, La Focaccia plates which has a cosy atmosphere
an excellent and well-deserved up delicious wood-fired pizzas and friendly service, the cuisine
reputation for its cuisine. accompanied by Italian music. ranges from Middle Eastern
Other dishes are also available. to French and Italian.
LA GOULETTE:
Mamie Lily  LA MARSA: Saiko No NABEUL: Le Bon Kif 
Kosher Road map C1 Sushi & Drinks  Seafood Road map D2
14 Avenue Pasteur Japanese Road map C1 Rue Marbella
Tel 21 364 574 6 Rue des Bigaradiers, Tel 72 222 783
Tunisia’s only kosher restaurant Marsa Nassim Fast, professional service
serves couscous dishes and Tel 28 820 082 Closed Sun awaits diners at this upscale
tajines in a cosy environment. Saiko No, located on a busy restaurant that offers some of
street in central La Marsa, boasts the best and freshest seafood in
LA GOULETTE: an extensive menu of sushi and town. For those who don’t
La Victoire  sashimi options that range from want seafood, there are several
Seafood Road map C1 traditional to more creative. other options.
1 Avenue Roosevelt
Tel 71 735 398
La Victoire is spread over two
floors, with the top part over-
looking the busy street. The
decor is simple, allowing diners
to focus their attention on the
perfectly cooked fish caught on
the day.
LA MARSA: Fragola 
Café Road map C1
Corniche de Marsa
Sitting across the street from
the Marsa boardwalk, this little
open-aired café offers breakfast,
a variety of hot drinks and, of
course, typical Tunisian street
food. It is a great place to relax
with a cup of coffee. A vibrant selection of typically Tunisian spices
NABEUL: L’Olivier 

Seafood Road map D2
Avenue Hedi Chaker
Tel 72 286 613
Attentive and friendly staff
serve excellent fish and seafood
dishes at this upmarket
restaurant. Although the menu
presents several other options,
including a handful of meat
dishes, the fish couscous is
highly recommended.
NABEUL: Le Slovenia 

International Road map D2
Rue Hedi Nouira,
Route de Hammamet
Tel 72 285 343
This is a restaurant for those who
love to travel – if not with their The terrace at Dar Zarrouk, overlooking the bay at Sidi Bou Saïd
passports, at least with their taste
buds. The chef enjoys exploring views of the Mediterranean.
flavours from all around the Diners choose from six four- Northern Tunisia
world, so there is always course set menus, where dishes
something exciting on the menu. range from salad or briks (deep- AÏN DRAHAM:
fried filo-pastry parcels) for Festival Club 
SIDI BOU SAÏD: starters, to couscous or grilled Traditional Tunisian/
La Petite Suede  fish as mains. All menus are Italian Road map B2
Salon de Thé Road map C1 rounded off with dessert and Past the roundabout towards
12 Avenue du 7 Novembre fresh mint tea. Tabarka
Tel 71 741 843 Cheap and cheerful, Festival
This unusual little salón de té (tea SIDI BOU SAÏD: Club exudes a festive
room) in the heart of Sidi Bou Dar Zarrouk  atmosphere – thanks, largely,
Saïd is run by Swedish natives. Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 to its young, buoyant clientele.
It offers a variety of teas and Rue Hedi Zarrouk The menu includes both
coffees, as well as delicious Tel 71 740 591 Tunisian staples and pizzas.
pastries and other baked goods, Perched high on a hill above
but it is mostly known for its Sidi Bou Saïd, this restaurant AÏN DRAHAM:
delicate cupcakes. reflects the town’s trademark Le Grand Maghreb 
blue-and-white look in its Traditional Tunisian Road map B2
SIDI BOU SAÏD: elegant but casual decor. 8130 Aïn Draham
Restaurant L’Arabesque  Diners here will find the views Tel 96 649 747
Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 of the sea as sumptuous as This intimate spot is a great
20 Avenue Habib Bourguiba the food on their plates. The option for sampling the most
Tel 97 800 499 house speciality is traditional typical local fare. The menu
While this restaurant in the heart lamb or fish couscous. specializes in all things lamb,
of Sidi Bou Saïd does not benefit from couscous to grilled chops,
from a sea view, it has a lovely SIDI BOU SAÏD: although chicken is also
ambience and excellent service. Le Pirate  readily available.
It also boasts a solid menu of Seafood Road map C1
local specialities, including a Boulevard de l’Environnement AÏN DRAHAM: Restaurant
famous fish couscous that packs Tel 71 980 004 de l’Hotel des Pins 
a lot of flavour. Le Pirate offers alfresco dining Traditional Tunisian Road map B2
with lovely views of Sidi Bou 148 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
SIDI BOU SAÏD: Saïd’s harbour. Although the Tel 78 656 200
Le Chargui  menu includes vegetarian This little restaurant is connected
Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 dishes and excellent steaks, fish to l’Hotel des Pins and offers
39 Rue Habib Thameur is naturally the speciality of the traditional Tunisian cuisine at a
Tel 71 740 591 house. There is also a good decent price. It’s very popular
Situated in a beautiful locale wine list. with hotel guests.
with fantastic sea views, Le
Chargui dishes up typical SIDI BOU SAÏD: BIZERTE: Bosphore 
Tunisian fare, cooked to Tam Tam  Traditional Tunisian Road map C1
perfection. An excellent mid- Italian Road map C1 Rue d’Alger
budget option for this area. 7 Avenue du 7 Novembre Tel 72 433 222
Tel 71 728 535 Closed Ramadan If you wish to sample authentic
SIDI BOU SAÏD: Tam Tam is a trendy restaurant Tunisian cuisine, then look no
Au Bon Vieux Temps  in the heart of Sidi Bou Saïd. further than Bosphore. This
Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 Its menu is varied and Italian little restaurant attracts many
56 Rue Hedi Zarrouk cuisine is the speciality. There locals, who come to enjoy
Tel 71 744 788 is also a children’s menu, plus a traditional dishes at affordable
Au Bon Vieux Temps has a range of unusual and tempting prices in a comfortable and
classic decor and stunning desserts to conclude. relaxed atmosphere.
BIZERTE: Café Patisserie

Bellahouel 
Café Road map C1
Avenue Habib Bourguiba
This popular café and patisserie
offers a selection of sumptuous
sweet treats. Relax at one of the
round tables and watch the
world go by while sipping an
excellent coffee and enjoying
a delicate mille feuille.
BIZERTE: La Mammina 
Italian Road map C1
Rue d’Espagne
Tel 20 241 129
This cosy little eatery offers
lasagna, pasta dishes and pizzas,
plus a range of sandwiches and A basket of traditional Tunisian bread
typical Tunisian fare, such as
shawarma (meat cooked on a Le Sport Nautique is located SIDI MECHRIG: Auberge
spit). It is comfortable and right on the corniche and de Sidi Mechrig 
reasonably priced. offers great views of the sea. Seafood Road map C1
Although the specialities focus On the beach
BIZERTE: Du Bonheur  on seafood, there are other Sitting on the beach, next to
Traditional Tunisian Road map C1 options on the menu. Live music the auberge, this straw-roofed
31 Rue Thaalbi is often played in the evenings. cabin offers alfresco dining
Tel 72 431 047 with a limited menu of grilled
Du Bonheur is a reasonably CAP ZBIB: El Manara  fish, meats and salad. The fish
priced restaurant specializing in Seafood Road map C1 is the best choice. Open only
freshly caught Tunisian seafood Cap Zbib Metline during the summer months.
and couscous. The decor is lovely, Tel 21 488 131
with tables separated by ornate This out-of-the-way restaurant,
wooden screens. featuring exclusively outdoor DK Choice
seating, is a hot spot for TABARKA:
BIZERTE: Le Petit Mousse  anybody who loves seafood. Café Andalouse 
French Road map C1 Enjoy freshly caught grilled fish Café Road map B1
Route de la Corniche accompanied by a leafy salad, Avenue Habib Bourguiba
Tel 75 459 185 plus a refreshing mint tea to Tel 78 673 536
In addition to superb sea views, finish the meal. This beautiful café captures
Le Petit Mousse offers excellent the design of the Ottoman
French cuisine in charming JENDOUBA: Belle Vue  period, with heavy wooden
surroundings. It is one of the Traditional Tunisian Road map B2 doors full of intricate designs
few restaurants in town offering Rue de l’Environnment and Turkish puppets suspended
escargots (snails), along with Tel 98 690 859 from the ceiling. Enjoy a chicha
seafood dishes and even pizzas. One of only a few restaurants in or sip a coffee while soaking
Jendouba, Belle Vue serves up up the relaxing atmosphere.
BIZERTE: Restaurant traditional Tunisian fare with a The café is frequented almost
Le Grand Bleu da Ciccio  view of the mountains from its exclusively by men, but women
Italian Road map C1 terraced area. are welcome.
Rue Ahmed Tlili
Tel 72 423 584 JENDOUBA: Hotel Atlas 
Located just off the main street, International Road map B2 TABARKA: Café-Restaurant
this pleasant, family-friendly Rue 1 Juin Jasmin 
restaurant specializes in Italian Tel 78 603 217 Café Road map B1
food, although seafood is also Located inside the hotel, this Next to Tabarka Centre
served. It has a rustic interior. restaurant offers mostly typical Café Jasmin provides a
Tunisian cuisine. During hunting relaxing environment in down-
BIZERTE: Le Phénicien  season, however, dishes made town Tabarka where one can
Seafood Road map C1 with wild boar might also be smoke a chicha and sip coffee.
Old harbour available on the menu. Fish and meat dishes in large
Tel 72 424 480 portions are available for visitors
Housed on a Viking ship moored SIDI ALI EL-MEKKI: with an appetite.
in Bizerte’s harbour, this Cap Farina 
restaurant excels at seafood, with Seafood Road map C1 TABARKA: Corail 
the house speciality being a On the beach Traditional Tunisian Road map B1
deliciously rich fish couscous. This picturesque restaurant 70 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
can be found in a quiet area of Popular with the locals, this
BIZERTE: Le Sport the beach. While the menu isn’t small eatery serves traditional
Nautique  extensive, the food – mostly Tunisian fare, including grilled
Seafood Road map C1 fish and seafood – is certainly fish and salads. Enjoy your meal
Avenue Habib Bougatsa tasty. Open only during the inside or alfresco, if you can find
Tel 72 432 262 summer months. available seating.
TABARKA: Restaurant TABARKA: Mimosas  GABÈS: Restaurant El Pino 

Khemir  Traditional Tunisian Road map B1 Pizzeria Road map D5
Seafood Road map B1 Avenue Habib Bourguiba 144 Avenue Habib Bourguiba
11 Avenue Habib Bourguiba Tel 78 673 028 Tel 75 272 010
Tel 78 671 586 Mimosas is situated on a hilltop, This little restaurant welcomes
The menu at Restaurant Khemir and offers panoramic views of mostly students during the day
offers several fish and seafood the sea and town. On the and families in the evening.
options, but it also provides menu are mainly traditional fish Although it offers some
traditional Tunisian fare such dishes. In season, however, the traditional meals, such as ojja (a
as ojja (a spicy tomato-based house speciality is the wild boar spicy stew), its speciality is pizza.
stew) and briks (deep-fried from the local forests – it is
parcels of stuffed filo pastry). truly exceptional. GABÈS: L’Oasis 
Traditional Tunisian Road map D5
TABARKA: Les Aiguilles  Route de la Plage
Seafood Road map B1 Tel 75 270 381
18 Avenue Bourguiba The Sahel The restaurant at Hotel l’Oasis
Tel 78 673 789 Gabes specializes in Tunisian
The menu at Les Aiguilles EL-DJEM: Le Bonheur 2  dishes like couscous and lamb.
features the catch of the day Traditional Tunisian Road map D3 The dining room is charming,
in a number of inspired dishes; Place du Coliseum with large windows.
there are also several Tunisian Just across the road from the
specialities on offer. The terrace amphitheatre, this restaurant GABÈS: Restaurant Palais
is perfect for alfresco dining. enjoys great reviews for its de la Mer 
warm environment and Seafood Road map D5
TABARKA: excellent service. Among the Avenue Habib Thameur
Barberousse  specialities are the lamb cutlets, The specialities at this pleasant
Seafood Road map B1 which are delicious and very restaurant next to the sea, on
Boulevard des Etats-Unis good value for money. the boardwalk, highlight local
Tel 72 280 037 fish and seafood. There is also
Like most restaurants on the EL-DJEM: couscous on the menu.
coast, Barberousse offers Restaurant Les Emirs 
excellent fish and lobster dishes. Traditional Tunisian Road map D3 GABÈS: Le Royal 
However, it is also renowned Place du Coliseum Seafood Road map D5
for its méchoui berbère, or Spend a few hours walking Avenue Habib Bourguiba
barbecued meat (usually the streets of El-Djem, then visit Tel 75 279 252
lamb or goat), cooked in the this place, which is conveniently Simple but classy decor at this
traditional Berber way. near the amphiteatre. Enjoy the little restaurant in a corner of a
atmospheric setting and strip mall, where the ambience
TABARKA: Le Pescadou  local fare. is warm and the service is good.
Seafood Road map B1 Try the jumbo shrimp.
Place Fréjus GABÈS: Patisserie Linoise 
Tel 78 671 586 Patisserie Road map D5 KERKENNAH ISLANDS:
Enjoy excellent views of the Rue Farhat Hached Restaurant La Sirene 
harbour from the terrace of this Tel 75 277 778 Seafood Road map E4
charming and professionally Patisserie Linoise is the best stop Plage Remla
run restaurant. Seafood is the for sweet and indulgent treats Tel 74 481 118
house speciality, with the in Gabès. Breakfast specialities Enjoy specialities such as seafood
French bouillabaisse being are the most popular, but brik (wrapped in filo pastry) and
particularly delicious. savoury pastries filled with fresh fish while dining on the
meat and cheese are also terrace at this friendly restaurant.
TABARKA: excellent choices. Be prepared The menu does also feature non-
Restaurant Le Mondial  to wait in line. seafood choices.
Seafood Road map B1
Port de Plaisance
Tel 78 670 051
Located in the port, Le Mondial
offers generous portions of
mainly fish and seafood at
affordable prices. There is also a
tempting wine menu.
TABARKA: Touta 
Seafood Road map B1
Port de Plaisance
Tel 78 671 018
Touta is a popular spot for
locals and visitors alike. Its
specialities are mostly seafood-
based – in particular, the lobster
is succulent and full of flavour.
Situated in the marina, this
reasonable restaurant is well
worth a visit. The simple, charming elegance at Le Royal, Gabès
KERKENNAH ISLANDS: MAHDIA: Chicko’s 

Cercina  Mexican Road map D3
Seafood Road map E4 Zone Touristique
Sidi Frej There are several menus from
Tel 74 489 600 which to choose at this bright
This restaurant garners little spot, including a chicken-
consistently good reviews for only one. Although Chicko’s
its charming owner, warm promotes itself as a Mexican
atmosphere and excellent restaurant, the kitchen also
service. While the menu has dishes up juicy hamburgers
no shortage of alternatives, fish and delicious, thin-crust
is the house speciality. pizzas. Simple but good food.
KERKENNAH ISLANDS: MAHDIA: Gourmandise 

Chez Najet Le Régal  Patisserie Road map D3
Seafood Road map E4 Avenue Tahar Sfar
El-Attaya Tel 73 696 900
Tel 74 484 100 Situated in simple but charming
One of only a handful of surroundings, this branch of the Colourful tablecloths and banquettes in the
restaurants on this tiny island, Gourmandise chain of patisseries Sidi Driss restaurant in Matmata
Chez Najet offers simple but offers a dizzying variety of
delicious meals. Two popular French and Tunisian specialities – MAHDIA: Restaurant
dishes are the octopus stew from elegant gateaux to sticky Le Quai 
and the seafood spaghetti. baklava – at excellent prices. Seafood Road map D3
Avenue Farhat Hached
KERKENNAH ISLANDS: MAHDIA: El Moez  Tel 73 687 867
Kastil  Traditional Tunisian Road map D3 Sitting in the port of Mahdia,
Seafood Road map E4 Near the entrance to the museum this unpretentious restaurant
Sidi Frej Tel 22 938 490 allows diners to choose the fish
Tel 74 489 884 Frequented by locals, this they wish to consume. The main
Dine on fresh seafood amid humble café-restaurant offers courses are accompanied by a
charming decor and with the mainly classic fish and couscous Tunisian salad and bread.
benefit of a sea view. Located in dishes. While a menu is not
the Hotel Kastil, this restaurant always available, the waiting MATMATA: Ben Khalifa 
also offers non-seafood options, staff will gladly describe what is Café Road map D5
including a few French dishes. on offer. Matmata
This little café tends to cater
MAHDIA: Café Sidi MAHDIA: El Asfour  mainly to locals, so the decor
Salem La Grotte  Seafood Road map D3 is on the plain side, although
Café Road map D3 Route de la Corniche the panoramic views are
Borj Erras Tel 58 329 026 excellent. On the menu is
Tel 73 695 656 Attached to the Iberostar simple Tunisian fare.
While it is possible to dine on Hotel, this restaurant is mostly
traditional food here, this café renowned for its grilled fish,
is known primarily for its coffee though the menu offers a range DK Choice
and its beautiful location, high of alternatives. El Asfour is MATMATA: Chez Abdoul 
above the sea. Enjoy a swim, equally suited for a family meal Traditional Tunisian
then a Turkish coffee with or a romantic dinner. Road map D5
orange blossom water. Matmata
MAHDIA: Le Lido  Chez Abdoul is a little
Seafood Road map D3 restaurant on the road to Ksar
Avenue Farhat Hached Ghilane, with fantastic views of
Tel 71 681 339 the barren landscape. It offers
Located just a short walk excellent traditional fare, such
from the seafront, this small as briks (deep-fried filo-pastry
establishment has simple parcels), lamb couscous and
but pleasant decor. The lobster salads, but the spaghetti with
is particularly recommended, spicy harissa sauce is also a
although more typically Tunisian speciality. It is possible to dine
fare is also available. alfresco – Tunisian-style.
MAHDIA:
Le Neptune  MATMATA: Sidi Driss 
Seafood Road map D3 International Road map D5
Boulevard du 14 Janvier Matmata
Tel 73 681 927 Tel 73 240 005
Situated near the sea and Attached to the eponymous
boasting fantastic views, Le hotel, Sidi Driss is a must for fans
Neptune specializes in grilled of Star Wars, since some scenes
fish. However, the menu also of the film were shot here. The
provides alternative offerings, food ranges from traditional
The elegant façade of El Asfour, part of the such as couscous with fish, Tunisian couscous to more
Iberostar Hotel in Mahdia and octopus salad. international offerings.
DK Choice
PORT EL-KANTAOUI:
Le Mediterranée 
Seafood Road map D2
Marina, 119 Port el-Kantaoui
Tel 73 348 788 Closed Tue
Le Mediterranée enjoys an
excellent reputation from
locals who appreciate fine
dining. Although the façade
is rather uninspiring and the
interior simple, it benefits from
a fine location, overlooking
the marina. Most dishes are
delicious, but seafood is the
speciality. Try the squid, the
perfectly cooked mussels or
The terrace at Café Sidi Salem La Grotte, perched above the sea in Mahdia (see p274) the grilled catch of the day.
MONASTIR: Ali Bar  advance at this popular eatery

Bar Road map D3 that serves delicious and SFAX: Café Diwan 
Zone Touristique authentic Mexican food. Enjoy Café Road map D4
Although this is officially a bar, generous portions, as well as Borj Erssas
it serves a limited selection of beer and wine, at great prices. This little café has an open and
traditional Tunisian specialities, sociable setting, with benches
as well as breakfast and brunch. MONASTIR: for guests to share and blue-and-
The decor is spartan, with several Chandelier  white decor. The mint tea is the
televisions that mostly show Seafood Road map D3 house speciality.
football matches. Marina
Tel 73 462 232 Closed Sun SFAX: Lebanese House 
MONASTIR: Cap Grill  Boasting a pleasant view of the Lebanese Road map D4
Seafood Road map D3 port, this welcoming restaurant Route Soukra, Immeuble Yasmine
Marina is lit with candles in the evening, Tel 25 202 407
Tel 73 462 136 Closed Sun creating a romantic ambience. Enjoy traditional Lebanese
Feast on fresh seafood on the Choose from options that cuisine – mezes, grilled meats
sunny terrace or in the air- include fish couscous, seafood and salads – at this charming
conditioned dining room. The brik or, if you prefer turf to surf, restaurant with a sunny decor.
house speciality is couscous fillet of beef. The tabbouleh is particularly
royal, served with fish. This recommended. Live music in
restaurant enjoys an excellent MONASTIR: Le Pirate  the evenings and at weekends.
reputation among the locals. Seafood Road map D3
Port de Peche SFAX: Restaurant Cercina 
MONASTIR: Dar Chakra  Tel 73 468 126 Closed Mon Seafood Road map D4
Seafood Road map D3 Enjoying an excellent reputation 19 Rue Ibn Mejed
Houmet Trabelsia locally, Le Pirate specializes in Tel 74 229 241
Locals and tourists alike flock fish. The service is impeccable, Located next to the beach,
to this little restaurant located and the evening live shows are this open-aired restaurant
in a typical Arabic home, with amusing and entertaining. has spectacular views of the
charming decor and a warm sea from all sides. The house
ambience. Dar Chakra offers a PORT EL-KANTAOUI: speciality is the catch of the day.
different plat du jour each day L’Artisto 
and specializes in fish dishes. Italian Road map D2 SFAX: La Sirene 
Hotel Golf Residence Seafood Road map D4
MONASTIR: Marina Tel 73 348 904 Rue Haffouz
The Captain  Unlike many Italian restaurants Tel 74 224 691
International Road map D3 in Tunisia, L’Artisto offers more A meal at La Sirene is as close to
Cap Marina than just pasta dishes and authentic home-cooked food as
Tel 98 239 737 Closed Fri pizzas. Try the fish fillet with you can get. The chefs cook the
While touring the marina in Mona- fennel, for instance, but be freshly caught fish over a fire. The
stir, be sure to stop and enjoy a prepared to pay a premium clientele is primarily local, and
meal at this exciting restaurant. price for your meal. the ambience charming.
Full of atmosphere, The Captain
specializes in fish, but it offers a PORT EL-KANTAOUI: SFAX: Bagdad 
varied menu that includes meat La Daurade  Traditional Tunisian Road map D4
skewers and even pizza. There is Mediterranean Road map D2 63 Avenue F. Hached
also a well-stocked salad bar. Marina Tel 74 233 856 Closed Fri
Tel 73 348 893 Bagdad, with its somewhat
MONASTIR: Salsa Posada  Popular with both locals and misleading name, does not offer
Mexican Road map D3 tourists, La Daurade has a good, Persian food, but excellent fare
Airport Road extensive seafood menu, but the in the Sfaxian style. Choose a
Tel 24 130 638 steaks are also excellent. Live soup or fresh fish, and wash it
Make sure to book a table in shows and music at weekends. all down with a bottle of wine.
SFAX: Le Corail  SOUSSE: L’Escargot  DJERBA: Caprice 

Seafood Road map D4 International Road map D3 Fast Food Road map D5
Avenue Habib-Maazoun 87 Route de la Corniche Place Farhat Hached,
Tel 74 227 301 Tel 73 224 779 Houmt Souk
Enjoy excellent service in simple Situated on the Corniche, the Pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches
yet warm surroundings. Several cosy L’Escargot serves mainly and meat dishes are served
types of meals are available at French specialities, including at this modern restaurant on a
Le Corail, but seafood is the a decadent fish dish (cooked busy street corner. Seating is
undisputed house speciality, in cognac and served with indoor and outdoor, and service
particularly the shrimp beignets hollandaise sauce), fillet mignon is quick.
and the seafood brik (wrapped and, of course, snails. The decor
in filo pastry, then deep-fried). is warm and charming. DJERBA: Chez Maman 
SOUSSE: Caracas  SOUSSE: La Marmite  Midoun
International Road map D3 Seafood Road map D3 Tel 55 373 259
Rue Ali Belhaouane 15 Rue Remada A simple but charming
Catering to a young and hip Tel 73 226 728 establishment, Chez Maman
Tunisian crowd, Caracas is styled La Marmite enjoys rave reviews has for specialities its briks and
to resemble this Latin American from locals and visitors alike. chichas. It enjoys rave reviews
city. There are many options on While the prices might be a and is frequented by tourists
its international menu, from touch high, the seafood is and locals alike.
hamburgers to pizzas, not to excellent and the atmosphere
mention its trademark chicken charming, with traditional music. DJERBA: Chouchou 
omelette. Music videos are Traditional Tunisian/
screened in the background. French Road map D5
Avenue de l’Environnement, Midoun
SOUSSE: Dar Albaraka  Djerba and the Tel 25 919 349
Traditional Tunisian Road map D3 Medenine Area Chouchou offers good Tunisian
Rue de l’Eglise and French fare at low prices.
Tel 26 292 224 DJERBA: Aisha Gelateria  Enjoy the catch of the day or the
Situated in a traditional Arab- Ice-Cream Parlour Road map D5 lamb cutlets, always cooked to
style house, Dar Albaraka has Zone Touristique perfection. The staff are welcoming
limited seating on a charming Sandwiched between two and the atmosphere warm.
patio. Try the deep-fried brik, busy restaurants, this tiny spot
a speciality, but all the Tunisian is easy to miss. That would be DJERBA: Delice Resto 
dishes are delicious. a shame, though, since they Traditional Tunisian Road map D5
make some of the most delicious Rue Ali Belhaouane, Midoun
SOUSSE: El Khella  ice cream on Djerba. Don’t miss Tel 97 906 965
Traditional Tunisian Road map D3 the 1.5 TD cup. There is a friendly and
Le Ribat de Sousse Medina hospitable vibe at Delice Resto.
Tel 20 766 613 DJERBA: Bougainvillea  Prices are low, and the service
Authentic Tunisian food – Traditional Tunisian Road map D5 is very good. The menu includes
including grilled meats, Rue 7 Novembre, Midoun such typical Tunisian dishes as
couscous – is served to a mainly This little stand in the heart of ojja (stew) and grilled fish.
local crowd at this simple Midoun is open most of the day
restaurant. Wash it down with and serves the best briks DJERBA: Essofra 
their speciality, a cocktail made in town. No-frills decor, but the Traditional Tunisian Road map D5
of strawberry, orange and melon place is clean and the food is Avenue Taieb Mehiri, Houmt Souk
juices. After lunch, enjoy a stroll tasty and fresh. Perfect for a Tel 98 281 049
through the nearby souk. reviving light lunch. Essofra is a favourite among
the locals thanks to its tasty
meals and excellent value.
Try the stuffed calamari, the
lamb cutlets or the famous
Djerban rice.
DK Choice
DJERBA: El Majless 
Café Road map D5
Zone Touristique, Midoun
A true Oriental lounge, El
Majless is expansive, spread
over two floors, with an
enormous balcony. Chichas
and coffee are the specialities
of the house, but they also
serve traditional café food,
plus pizzas and sandwiches.
The fruit platter is varied and
always fresh. Desserts are also
good, as is the mint tea.
Enjoying a meal in the shade at Caprice, in the centre of Houmt Souk, Djerba
DJERBA: Rachid et Sophie 

Avenue de l’Environnement, Midoun
Tel 20 946 915
This charming restaurant
provides ample alfresco
seating and an excellent range
of local specialities. The prices
are very low for the quality
on offer.
DJERBA: Restaurant Haroun 

Seafood Road map D5
Port de la Peche, La Marsa Houmt
Souk
Tel 75 650 488
Dine on a large pirate ship, or
on solid ground right next to
it, at this restaurant in the
harbour, which serves haute
cuisine based on fish and meat. Outdoor tables in front of Delice Resto, Djerba (see p276)
DJERBA: Fatroucha  DJERBA: Il Pappagallo  METAMEUR:

Seafood Road map D5 Italian Road map D5 Le Café Metameur 
Zone Touristique, Midoun Houmt Souk Fast Food Road map D5
Tel 75 732 594 Tel 75 416 216 Gabes–Medenine Road
Listen to live oud music amid This quaint restaurant offers Tel 75 640 294
Arabic decor and enjoy a meal impeccable attention to detail, This small café is situated inside
of traditional Tunisian appetizers excellent service and a menu a 17th-century castle and serves
followed by freshly cooked fish. of Italian standards, re-imagined sandwiches and light snacks.
for the Tunisian palate. Enjoy It is also known for its delicous
hearty portions of delicious food and healthy drinks, including
DK Choice such as beautifully cooked meats mint tea and freshly pressed
DJERBA: La Fontaine  and flavourful pasta dishes. juices. Le Café Metameur caters
International Road map D5 mostly to tour groups.
Rue du 2 Mars, Houmt Souk DJERBA: Restaurant
Tel 75 254 205 El Foundouk  ZARZIS: El Riad 
Outdoors, this restaurant Seafood Road map D5 Traditional Tunisian Road map E5
features traditional blue-and- Rue Moncef Bey, Houmt Souk Sidi Kbir Chat Sonia
white Tunisian architecture. Tel 20 072 014 Tel 22 500 487
Inside, however, the dining Situated in the heart of the souk, Diners can enjoy a three-course
rooms have individually this restaurant provides both meal for just 15 TD at this eatery
themed decor inspired by indoor and outdoor seating. It right next to the beach. In
various countries. The menu serves traditional and regional addition, there are spectacular
follows suit, with dishes from Tunisian cuisine, but its speciality views of the sea and covered
Morocco, Switzerland and, of is fish, which is prepared in a seating on the terrace.
course, Tunisia. There is a terrace variety of appealing ways.
at the back for alfresco dining.
DJERBA: Restaurant
Sidi Ali  Southern Tunisia
Seafood Road map D5
Arkow Hadada Aghir DOUZ: Restaurant
Tel 21 805 506 de l’Arc 
Located inside a traditional Traditional Tunisian Road map C6
makeshift beach hut, and Avenue des Martyrs
featuring a number of tables Simple, but good-quality,
right on the sand, Sidi Ali traditional food is served up at
unbeatable views of the sea. this small restaurant, ideal for
Try the grilled fish, which is an affordable lunch. Enjoy
usually caught on the same day. couscous and grilled meat
dishes for as little as 4 TD.
MEDENINE: Montazah
El Meria  DOUZ: Restaurant
Traditional Tunisian Road map D5 Bel Habib 
Avenue du 7 Novembre Traditional Tunisian Road map C6
This lovely restaurant is quaint Avenue du 7 Novembre
inside and remarkably charming Tel 75 471 115
outside, in the picturesque Located inside the hotel bearing
garden area. Sandwiches and the same name, this cheap
pizzas are served alongside little restaurant offers typical
traditional Tunisian cuisine in a Tunisian fare – couscous, grilled
A waiter displays a typical seafood platter tranquil environment. Great meats and chicken dishes – all at
at Restaurant Haroun, on Djerba value for money. affordable prices.
DOUZ: Restaurant NEFTA: Ferdaous 

Les Palmiers  Traditional Tunisian Road map A5 DK Choice
Traditional Tunisian Road map C6 Route de la Corbeille TAMERZA:
Avenue Taieb Mhiri Tel 21 674 298 Diarai Tamerza 
Tel 24 232 050 Charmingly situated in the Steakhouse Map A5
Bustling little Restaurant Les palm groves just outside Nefta Tamerza
Palmiers serves local cuisine, town, Ferdaous serves typical Tel 76 485 492
such as soups, briks, salads Tunisian cuisine. After lunch, Graceful and elegant, Diarai
and couscous. Diners eat on take a relaxing stroll through Tamerza offers full views of the
floor cushions, both inside the palms. surrounding mountains and
and outside. rocky desert terrain. Largely
NEFTA: Jamel  considered a steakhouse, it
Traditional Tunisian Road map A5 also serves several Tunisian
DK Choice Avenue Habib Bourguiba dishes. If you prefer, it is
DOUZ: Restaurant Meaning “camel” in Arabic, possible to eat under the
Le Rendezvous  Jamel is friendly and cosy, palms outside, on the
Traditional Tunisian serving up traditional and ground, in true Berber style.
Road map C6 cheap Tunisian cuisine in a
Avenue Taieb Mhiri simple environment.
Tel 47 570 802 TATAOUINE: La Medina 
Le Rendezvous, not far from NEFTA: Les Sources  Traditional Tunisian Road map D6
Les Palmiers, is a particularly Traditional Tunisian Road map A5 Rue H. Mestaoui
pleasant local restaurant. Avenue Habib Bourguiba Tel 75 860 999
The decor is arguably rather Tel 76 430 351 Situated inside a hotel, this
bland, but the food – typical The ambience is warm and little restaurant offers good
Tunisian fare cooked well the decor simple at Les Sources. traditional Tunisian cuisine at
and at remarkably low prices – On the menu is straight- low prices.
offers plenty of reasons to forward Tunisian cuisine at
linger here. affordable prices. TATAOUINE:
La Gazelle 
TAMERZA: Les Palmiers  Traditional Tunisian Road map D6
DOUZ: Centre Traditional Tunisian Road map A5 Avenue Hedi Chaker
d’Animation Bedouin  Tozeur Tel 75 860 009
Traditional Tunisian Road map C6 There is a pet peacock at this La Gazelle is located inside
Douz café, next to a small waterfall the hotel bearing the same
Tel 75 470 639 on the rocks near the oasis. It is name. Although it serves
Diners can eat in an authentic a tranquil location in which to typical Tunisian cuisine, it
Berber tent while enjoying enjoy a pick-me-up, such as offers a more formal experience
traditional entertainment and mint tea or a strong coffee with than many such restaurants,
dance. This place serves solid a chicha. and also serves alcohol.
traditional Tunisian fare but is
often largely taken over by TAMERZA: Restaurant TOZEUR: Dar Deda 
tour groups. du Soleil  Traditional Tunisian Road map B5
Traditional Tunisian Road map A5 27 Rue Abou Elkacem Echebi
DOUZ: Hotel Sahara Douz  Cite Elamel Tamerza Tel 98 694 198
International Road map C6 Tel 98 283 239 Built out of solid palm wood,
Zone Touristique Meals are inexpensive at this Dar Deda offers traditional
Tel 75 470 864 family restaurant located in the Tunisian fare, with lamb
Located in the eponymous mountains. The lamb couscous couscous being the undisputed
hotel, this restaurant serves is the house speciality and is not speciality. The atmosphere is
up a variety of tasty cuisines to be missed. lively and warm.
from around the world in
a welcoming ambience.
DOUZ: Restaurant Elbey 

Traditional Tunisian Road map C6
Route Zaafraane
Tel 20 081 659
Traditional Tunisian fare is
cooked under the stars, then
served inside Bedouin tents,
guaranteeing a unique
experience. Great fun for families.
NEFTA: Dar Houidi 

Traditional Tunisian Road map A5
Algma El Hawaida
Tel 98 577 705
This restaurant, based inside a
17th-century home, offers a
number of cultural activities.
Try unique dishes such as
stuffed pigeon. Poolside tables at the restaurant in the Hotel Sahara Douz, Douz
TOZEUR: Patisserie
El Qods 
Patisserie Road map B5
Avenue Habib Bouguiba
If you are in the mood for a
quick sandwich or something
sweet and delicious, look no
further than El Qods. This small
pastry shop offers sweet treats
for as little as 1 TD. Enjoy them
with coffee or a fresh juice.
TOZEUR: Pizzeria
La Fontana 
Pizzeria Road map B5
Zone Touristique
Tel 76 462 776
Located at the start of the tourist
zone, La Fontana prepares only
pizzas, and there is a reliably
good range of toppings to Sweet dates for sale at a stall in Tozeur Market
tempt guests.
TOZEUR: Restaurant hotel, this sumptuous
TOZEUR: Restaurant Tozorous  restaurant is decorated with
Capitole  Traditional Tunisian Road map B5 beautiful rugs and tapestries.
Traditional Tunisian/ Avenue Habib Bourguiba It offers a large buffet-style menu
Italian Road map B5 Traditional Tunisian cuisine, with specializing in Tunisian and
152 Avenue Abdulkacem Chebbi couscous the house speciality, is French cuisines.
Tel 76 462 631 served inside a brick dining room
This is a popular spot with the with a fountain at its centre.
locals. While service can be
slow, the Berber pizza is well TOZEUR: Tozeur Market  Central Tunisia
worth the wait. Camel meat is Street Food Road map B5
also on the menu for those Tozeur Market GAFSA: Abid 
looking to try something At this bustling market, it is Traditional Tunisian Road map B4
more unusual. possible to find, among other Rue Kilani Metoui
produce, locally grown dates Tel 76 221 055
TOZEUR: Restaurant at unbeatable prices. The menu at Abid focuses on
La Lune Etoilee  traditional Tunisian food, from
Traditional Tunisian Road map B5 TOZEUR: simple dishes such as tajine to
Avenue Abou-Kacem Chebbi Le Minaret  a few Berber delicacies.
Tel 99 443 769 Traditional Tunisian/
The charming staff lead diners Italian Road map B5 GAFSA: Errachid 
into a small but pleasant room, Avenue Habib Bourguiba Traditional Tunisian Road map B4
where they can feast on lamb Tel 23 524 203 Rue Jamel Abd Ennaceur
or chicken couscous, but also Opened by two French expats Tel 76 224 441
Berber specialities, such as who fell in love with Tozeur, Located in the Hotel Maamoun,
camel steak. Vegetarian meals Le Minaret offers interesting this restaurant prepares local
are also available. local fare. Try the date or peach specialities, such as steamed
tajine or the lasagna prepared lamb. Start your meal with a
TOZEUR: Restaurant with camel meat. It is handily Tunisian salad and end with
de la République  situated next to the mosque. a pastry or fruit for dessert.
Traditional Tunisian Road map B5
108 Avenue Habib Bourguiba TOZEUR: GAFSA: Tony Pizzeria 
Located at what is reputed to Planet Oasis  Pizzeria Road map B4
be Tozeur’s oldest address, Traditional Tunisian Road map B5 Rue Abou Elkacem Echchebbi
this charming establishment Tozeur Most of Tony’s pizzas are
offers excellent meat on Tel 76 460 310 large enough for two people,
skewers and couscous for less Unusually for Tunisia, Planet so be sure to take an appetite.
than 10 TD. Oasis offers a self-service buffet, Other options are also available.
which is varied and well
TOZEUR: Restaurant stocked. Diners can enjoy GAFSA:
Le Soleil  copious amounts of traditional Les Ambassadeurs 
Traditional Tunisian Road map B5 food while watching spectacular Traditional Tunisian/
58 Avenue Abdulkacem Chebbi light shows amid the palm French Road map B4
Tel 76 554 220 Closed May–Oct groves. Perfect for families. Rue Ahmed Senouissi
The menu at Le Soleil tends Tel 76 224 000
to be heavy on camel meat, TOZEUR: Restaurant Both Tunisian and French
but there are other, arguably de l’Hotel Dar Cherait  dishes are served in a pleasant
more tempting, options Traditional Tunisian Road map B5 dining room with simple white
available, including a few Tozeur walls and mosaics. The tajine and
vegetarian dishes. Simple, but Tel 76 452 100 fish from the region of Sfax
not unpleasant decor. Located in a spectacular deserve a special mention.
this restaurant has traditional

Tunisian dishes at low prices.
KAIROUAN: Roi Roi

du Couscous 
Traditional Tunisian Road map C3
Avenue Ali Zouaoui
This unusual and raucous bar
is frequented primarily by
local men and is more often than
not filled with smoke. While
better known for its beer, as its
name implies it does also serve a
decent couscous.
DK Choice
KAIROUAN: Dar
Abderrahman Zarrouk 
The pretty tiled courtyard at Dar Abderrahman Zarrouk, Kairouan Traditional Tunisian
Road map C3
GAFSA: Pizzeria Tomato  KAIROUAN: Rue Mohamed Bouhaha
Pizza Road map B4 Patisserie Segni  Tel 77 231 307
Rue Abou Elkacem Achchebbi Patisserie Road map C3 Situated in a building dating
Tel 97 913 519 Avenue 7 Novembre back three centuries, Zarrouk
Rustic decor, punctuated by Said to be the best pastry shop offers warm, homely
heavy woods and red-and-white in Kairouan for makhroud hospitality and excellent food.
colouring, dominates this little (a date-filled semolina cake Dishes are prepared from
restaurant, which offers pizzas dipped in honey), Segni is the fresh ingredients depending
with a varied range of toppings place to visit for a sweet on the season. Typical Tunisian
and calzones. It also provides a afternoon treat. fare, such as chicken or lamb
takeaway option. couscous, grilled meats and
KAIROUAN: Restaurant other main courses, is reliably
KAIROUAN: El Andalous  delicious; alterna tively, opt for
alternatively,
Gelateria Italiana  Traditional Tunisian Road map C3 a regional speciality, like chicken
Ice Cream Parlour Road map C3 9100 Sidi Bouzid with almonds, dates and
Avenue Ibn El-Jazzar Close to the city centre and apricots. Be sure to leave room
After a meal, wander up to this the arcades, this restaurant for dessert.
little shop for a good selection offers typical Tunisian cuisine,
of Italian gelato. including couscous and tajines.
However, it is the grilled chicken KAIROUAN: El Brija 
that truly stands out. Traditional Tunisian Road map C3
DK Choice Avenue Oqba Ibn Nafaa
KAIROUAN: KAIROUAN: Tel 77 229 019
Lablabi Guepsi  Restaurant Barouta  This beautifully decorated
Street Food Road map C3 Traditional Tunisian Road map C3 restaurant features a decent
Place de Tuis Avenue du 14 Janvier size terrace where diners can
This small eatery specializes Tel 24 133 775 enjoy a large and tasty Tunisian
in lablabi (chickpea soup), Eat inside or out, savouring meal alfresco.
which is a popular example flavourful soups, couscous or
of Tunisian street food, often a tajine at one of Kairouan’s KAIROUAN: Restaurant
consumed in the early hours oldest addresses. de la Jeunesse 
of the morning after a night Traditional Tunisian Road map C3
out. This local favourite is made KAIROUAN: Restaurant Avenue 7 Novembre
by ladling a heavily spiced Karawan  Tel 77 226 107
chickpea soup, plus eggs and Traditional Tunisian Road map C3 Located in the heart of the
other ingredients according Rue Soukina bint el-Houcine medina, this is said to be
to one’s liking, over torn pieces Tel 77 232 556 the best place in town for
of baguette. This family-run establishment traditional couscous. The
is friendly and impeccably restaurant is tourist-friendly
clean. Authentic and reliable and offers a plethora of nearby
KAIROUAN: Patisserie Tunisian food is on the menu, attractions, making it a perfect
Rabaoui Kairouan  and the deep-fried brik stop-off when sightseeing.
Patisserie Road map C3 parcels and tajines come
Rue Soukina Bint El-Hassan particularly recommended. KAIROUAN:
Tel 77 231 680 Restaurant Sabra 
Kairouan is widely considered KAIROUAN: Restaurant Traditional Tunisian Road map C3
to be the best city in Tunisia des Sportifs  Avenue de la République
for makroudh, a date-filled Traditional Tunisian Road map C3 Offering traditional Tunisian
semolina cake soaked in Avenue Ali-Zouaoui cuisine, this little restaurant
honey. Patisserie Rabaoui Tel 77 231 237 has welcoming staff and a
makes a fabulous version of One of the few non-tourist warm atmosphere. Try the
this national delicacy. establishments that offer alcohol, couscous or the tajine.
KAIROUAN: Sofra  LE KEF: Chez Venus  SBEITLA:

International Road map C3 International Road map B2 Restaurant Capitol 
Restaurant de l’Hotel Kasbah Rue Farhat Hached Traditional Tunisian Road map C3
Tel 77 237 701 Tel 78 200 355 Avenue de l’Environnement
Built in stone and decorated One of only a few restaurants Tel 77 466 880
in delicate pastel colours, in Le Kef, Chez Venus offers This spot offers dinner
this restaurant offers a varied something a bit different from surrounded by the ruins, with
menu, including grilled fish the usual Tunisian fare, with an fantastic views, good service
and meats, pasta dishes and elegant menu of European and friendly staff. The cuisine is
other staple main courses. (typically French) dishes. They varied and includes meat and
Particularly recommended is the also serve alcoholic drinks. fish dishes, as well as local
delicious seafood spaghetti. merguez lamb sausage.
LE KEF: Dar Boumakhlouf 
KASSERINE: Restaurant Café Road map B2 TEBOURSOUK:
L’Olivier  13 Rue Kheireddine Becha Restaurant Mercure 
Traditional Tunisian Road map B3 Tel 78 201 467 Traditional Tunisian Road map B2
Avenue de l’Environnement After a stroll through the old On the ruins grounds
Tel 77 471 584 city, walk deep into the heart of Shaded under the trees, and
Although the menu at L’Olivier the medina to enjoy a meal on the ruins grounds, this
will hold no surprises in this inside this beautiful building breezy little café-restaurant
area of Tunisia, the classic that has local architectural offers traditional fare at
cuisine is well prepared with features. Relax with a traditional excellent prices.
top-quality ingredients, and it dish of meats with sweet fruits
is further accompanied by warm, and mint tea. TEBOURSOUK:
friendly service. Dar Jdoud 
METLAOUI: Ellafi  Traditional Tunisian Road map B2
LE KEF: Andalous  Traditional Tunisian Road map B5 Next to the ruins
Traditional Tunisian Road map B2 Town centre Perched on the hill overlooking
Rue Hedi Chaker One of only a handful of the ancient ruins, this restaurant
Andalous is situated on a busy restaurants in Metlaoui, and offers fantastic views of the
street and frequented mostly by certainly the only one that spectacular countryside. Diners
local men, who use it as a place caters for the tourist trade, can enjoy a hearty Tunisian
to get together for news or this simple yet charming stand meal with several courses amid
gossip. A limited food menu is offers outdoor seating and traditional decor.
also served. simple, tasty Tunisian classics.
Keep an eye on the bill, though. TEBOURSOUK:
LE KEF: Bou Maklouf  Thugga 
Traditional Tunisian Road map B2 SBEITLA: Ambassadeur  Traditional Tunisian Road map B2
Rue Hedi Chaker Traditional Tunisian Road map C3 Main Road
Tel 98 285 211 Rue Farhat Hached Tel 78 466 647
Situated inside a quaint bed- The small menu makes This restaurant, targeted largely
and-breakfast establishment, choosing what to eat a simple at tourists, offers typically
this tiny restaurant is warm and affair in this tiny, out-of-the-way Tunisian cuisine most of the
friendly. The menu features a place. Traditional fare – salads, year. However, during hunting
number of delicious and spicy briks (filo-pastry parcels) and season, diners can also choose
dishes, which are delivered to couscous – reigns supreme. local wild boar caught in the
the table on beautifully The region is known for its hot nearby forests.
decorated plates. spices, so be prepared for a
taste sensation.
LE KEF:
La Kheffoise  SBEITLA: Carthage 
Street Food Road map B2 Traditional Tunisian Road map C3
Avenue Habib Bourguiba Road to Kasserine
Tel 78 203 887 Tel 77 467 722
Although La Kheffoise occupies Specializing in simple, but
a small area and has extremely quality Tunisian cuisine, this
limited seating, it is one of the restaurant sits on the edge of
few continuously open places the ancient Roman ruins. Start
in town, and it serves good- your meal with salad, bread and
quality simple fare, such as soup, and continue with the
pizzas and sandwiches. delicious couscous.
LE KEF: Ramzi  SBEITLA:

Traditional Tunisian Road map B2 Relais El-Ridha 
Rue Hedi Chaker Traditional Tunisian Road map C3
Tel 78 203 079 Rue Essaloum
Located in the hotel of the Tel 77 467 500
same name, this restaurant Enjoy the blue-and-white decor
offers a range of simply cooked, typical of northern Tunisia at
traditional Tunisian fare. Its this restaurant-café, which offers
clientele consists largely of local a range of sandwiches alongside
men, but it is friendly and traditional meals. Save room for Traditional offerings on a beautifully laid
welcoming to all. the excellent desserts. table at Dar Boumakhlouf, Le Kef
SHOPPING IN TUNISIA
Throughout Tunisia there are colourful aimed at tourists in the big medinas often
markets crammed with all sorts of charge high prices and are stocked with
Tunisian-made goods including rugs and poor-quality goods. For this reason, it is
carpets, ceramics, jewellery and perfumes. worth stepping into the smaller craft shops.
Tunisia also has large shopping centres, These will give some idea of the prices of the
which have about as much charm as their most popular souvenirs. They may also help
European counterparts and often sell to spot poor-quality items that are sold as
imported goods. Shops selling souvenirs souvenirs of Tunisia but may well have
can be found all over the country. Those been made elsewhere.
Where to Buy open until 10pm in summer.

The most interesting places to Throughout the summer
shop in Tunisia are the souks, season opening hours are
which can be found in most 8am to 12:30 or 1pm, then
medinas of Tunisia’s cities and 4:30pm till late. In tourist resorts
towns. Prices charged at these souvenir shops stay open until
market shops are not fixed in late at night, and sometimes
stone and are always open to until the last shopper leaves.
haggling (see box, opposite). During Ramadan, many
As well as the markets, visitors shops open between 8 and
can also shop in large, state- 9am and close at about 1pm.
owned department stores. They open again in the evening
These have fixed prices and and often remain open until
set opening hours. Small late at night.
hotel shops usually sell high-
quality goods, but charge
top prices for them. In duty- How to Pay
free shops, which are often Weekly market by the beach in Tabarka The national currency is the
found at border crossings, Tunisian dinar (TD). In privately
goods must be paid for in Opening Hours owned shops, especially those
convertible currencies and Most Tunisian shops close for that sell carpets, payment can
prices charged for Tunisian lunch; some may also be closed often be made in US dollars
products are far higher than on Sunday while other shops or euros. When shopping for
those paid in state-owned close on Friday afternoons. small items in souks, it is useful
shops in souks. Hairdressers close on Monday. to have some one-dinar coins.
The Bardo Museum (see Normally, the shops that sell In the state-owned department
pp92–3) sells good-quality food and household products stores as well as in larger shops,
books on the art and history are open from 8am until shopping centres, ONAT shops
of Tunisia and North Africa, 12:30pm and 2:30pm to 6pm, and duty-free shops, credit
as well as in-depth guides to Monday to Friday. However, cards are accepted. Credit
museums and archaeological supermarkets open early in cards are also accepted by
sites all over the country. the morning and may stay some upmarket restaurants
and hotels, from three-
star upwards.
When settling a bill in a
restaurant or a café it is
customary to leave a tip. In
cafés this need be no more
than some small change.
Waiters in more upmarket
restaurants will expect
about 10 per cent of the
total bill.
Always be prepared to
haggle in a souk. Haggling
is an accepted part of the
process and it is often possible
to purchase an item for half
the price that was originally
A souvenir from Tunisia – collectable desert sands quoted by the vendor.
SHOPPING IN TUNISIA 283
can sometimes leave a lot to play an important economic role.

be desired. Department stores Various parts of a market wake
and souks are a better bet up at different times. The first to
for visitors. open are the souks that sell meat
A very popular shopping and vegetables; the rest start
centre is the Palmarium, in trading a little later. Stalls and
Avenue Habib Bourguiba in shops usually stay open until
Tunis. Tunis City is a vast about 6 or 7pm, but the main
complex a short cab ride tourist alleys, such as Rue Jamaa
from the city centre. The large Zitouna in Tunis’s main souk,
and popular Zephyr shopping remain open much later.
centre can be found in La Tunisia’s markets are often
Marsa. This is not only a covered with roofs that provide
favourite shopping venue, but shelter from the sun. A few of
also a popular meeting place the expensive shops, such as
for young Tunisians. On the those selling carpets and gold,
ground floor are restaurants are air-conditioned.
Carpet and fabric shop in Tunis medina and stalls selling delicious ice Medinas also contain many
creams. This is one of few places small restaurants and cafés
Shopping Centres in Tunisia where low-fat ice where it is a good plan to stop
There are shopping centres in cream can be obtained. for a glass of tea and a sit-down.
most of Tunisia’s larger towns. One of the most charming and
They are very popular with the atmospheric of these is Café
locals, particularly the younger Markets M’Rabet in the Souk et-Trouk, in
generation. Their boutiques Markets were once the Tunis medina (see p267). When
stock many foreign-made goods economic centre of Tunisian planning a trip to one of Tunisia’s
and imported craft items, but towns and were often given markets, if looking for something
prices are high and the quality special privileges. Today, they still specific, begin by finding out the
location of the appropriate souk,
as they are governed by a
hierarchy (see pp286–7).
It is often worth venturing
further than the main souks. In
the souk situated near Tunis’s
Sidi Mehrez Mosque (see p85),
for instance, there are cheap,
good-quality ceramics, while in
the Souk el-Grana it is easy to
become caught up in crowds of
One of the few supermarkets to be found in Sousse women searching for bargains.
Advice on Haggling
Although prices are not fixed in stone, haggling follows certain general rules. First of all,
allow plenty of time and know roughly the value of the article required. Do not hurry.
The conversation starts with general topics, later on an interest may be shown in some
other object. Only after a while should one approach the article that is desired.
Never mention a price before the vendor does.
A rule of thumb is to begin negotiations from
one-third of the initial price. The seller puts on
a show of indignation, but will lower the price.
Smile and continue with the negotiations, saying
that in this case you will have to think about it.
Walking off will usually bring about a further
reduction in price. However, stick to the rules
of fair play and continue to haggle only if you
really want to buy the product. If a compromise
is not reached it is only necessary to smile and
bid the vendor a pleasant goodbye. When buying
several items at once, haggle over each of them
separately, and then in the end ask for an overall
discount. It can sometimes help to be the first or
the last customer of the day. Vegetable souk
Craft Shops in Tunisia

State-run craft shops have now
been streamlined and craft
villages created, notably at
Denden, in the Tunis suburb of
Manouba, and at the privately
funded Ken Craft Village near
Bou Ficha in the Sahel. These
villages regroup workshops and
craftsmen from a variety of
specializations. Cooperative
craft workshops, often run by
women, have also started to
develop, mainly in rural areas.
Tunisian arts and crafts do, Traditional craft shop selling the highest-quality products
however, face competition
from imported goods, and it p241). El Djem has a number in Souk al-Caid, in Sousse. It
is worth checking the origins of mosaic workshops, Sfax’s sells attractive art works as well
of products before buying, medina has a few remaining as beautiful fabrics. The Negrat
particularly in the main tourist coopers who produce gallery in Rue Sidi ben Arous,
areas. A number of retail outlets delightful miniature barrels, in Tunis, sells good-quality
which were formerly state-run and Nabeul mats (hasira) are lamps. Galleries selling
have retained the practice of still made from rushes. contemporary Tunisian art, as
fixed prices for those visitors well as work by foreign artists,
who prefer not to haggle. can also be found in Sidi Bou
Some craft shops, notably the Art Galleries Saïd and Port el-Kantaoui.
Office National de L’Artisanat in Art galleries in Tunisia that deal
Sousse, are vast, and spread only in paintings are few and far
over several floors. As there is between and most establish-
so much to see, allow plenty ments sell a range of art works,
of time when shopping for from graphics and ceramics to
souvenirs in these stores. The books and sculpture. The
assistants at genuine Tunisian influence of the École de Tunis
craft shops are usually helpful (see p21) is evident in most of
and knowledgeable, and will the contemporary paintings
take great care when wrapping found in Tunisia’s galleries. In the
up your goods to ensure they 1940s its pioneers introduced
will not be damaged during modern art to Tunisia and
the journey home. Most will began to combine new trends
also accept credit cards. such as Futurism with everyday Antiques and old junk for sale in a souk
Some craft shops can also scenes such as weddings, in Houmt Souk
provide information on markets, and hammams
carpets and tapestries, their (steam baths). Alongside these, Antiques
patterns and weaving methods, there are more traditional There is a ban on exporting
but it is best to ask about them paintings, executed in certain kinds of antiques from
at the Kairouan Museum (see watercolours or oils, which Tunisia. It is nevertheless worth
attempt to capture the light looking at the shops that sell
and colour of Tunisian them, even if only to admire the
architecture and landscape. beauty of the objects. Items
Also, traditional Islamic art, such as old carpets, tapestries,
including calligraphy and fabrics, ceramics, traditional
arabesques, are combined with wedding costumes, antique
more modern techniques of mirrors and everyday items are
abstract and figurative painting. not subject to an export ban.
As well as paintings of this However, always make sure
type, many galleries sell a by asking the vendor if there
variety of antiques and are likely to be any problems
contemporary artifacts. These with taking an item abroad.
are not cheap, but every now One good Tunis antique shop
and then a gallery has good- is Ed-Dar, in Rue Sidi ben Arous;
quality works by less well- another can be found at No. 7
known Tunisian artists going in the Souk et-Trouk. The small
One of the many art galleries in for very reasonable prices. shops in Rue des Glacières are
Sidi Bou Saïd One such shop is the gallery excellent places for buying old
bric-a-brac. With their shelves Silver hallmarks include a

piled high with items, these bunch of grapes with the
shops can resemble the figure 1 (90 per cent silver)
mythical cave discovered by Ali and an African head (80 per
Baba. If seriously contemplating cent silver or less). Gold and
buying anything in an antique silver items that do not bear
shop, allow at least one hour – hallmarks are of dubious
the conversation usually starts quality but visitors may wish
with a glass of mint tea. to buy them solely for their
attractive designs. Berber
jewellery is also worth seeking
Jewellery out. Though Berber jewellery
Gold and silver jewellery is pop- is usually made of low-grade
ular in Arab countries. Common silver it is nevertheless sought-
motifs include crescent pen- after for the uniqueness of
dants and the hand of its ancient designs.
Fatima, known as “the
Hamsa” meaning “five”,
which is used in many Other Souvenirs
different forms from The khoffa is the traditional
earrings to necklaces. straw basket used by
Another Tunisians to carry Pottery displayed in front of a shop
frequent motif their food purchases in Nabeul
used in jewellery is the fish, from the market. Colours
which is a popular good luck and designs vary from region of honey should cost around
charm against the “evil eye”. to region, and the baskets 15 TD. Be sure to wash the
Other popular items, also come in a range of outside of the jar and wrap
beside pendants, include Golden pendant sizes. Beautiful hand- it in bubble wrap before you
chunky bracelets. Coral made examples are pack it in your suitcase.
and amber jewellery is popular priced from around 2 TD.
in the Tabarka region. Items of Look in the local markets DIRECTORY
jewellery sold in Houmt Souk, and roadside stalls for them.
on Djerba, are produced by Honey produced in Tunisia Craft Shops
Jewish designers. This has long is from free-range bees, Aïn Draham
been a jewellery centre and is meaning that the bees are Tapis de Khroumirie,
still a good place to purchase not artificially fed and the 8130 Abul Qasim Shabbi.
gold and silver. honey will not contain added Tel (78) 655 226.
Gold and silver hallmarks chemicals and preservatives. Rue Abou el Kassam
should be stamped on every A deep golden colour, Tunisian Chebbi Aïn Draham.
item. This practice is regulated honey is one of the staples of Tel (97) 176 844.
by the Standards Office. A the Tunisian kitchen. Some of
Bardo
scorpion means that the item the best honey is sold from Rue Mongi Slim.
is made of nine-carat gold, a roadside stalls on the way Tel (71) 513 650.
goat stands for 14-carat gold to Tabarka, which is a well-
while a horse’s head, the known and extensive honey- Bou Ficha
Carthaginian symbol for producing area. A large jar Ken Craft Village,
money, denotes 18-carat gold. containing around 1 kg (2.2 lb) 4010 Sidi Khelifa.
Tel (73) 252 110.
El Hamma de Gabès
Société des Tapis d’Oudref.
Tel (75) 365 012.
UTAIM (Union Tunisienne d’Aide
aux Insuffisants Mentaux).
Tel (75) 330 366.
Sousse
Office National de L’Artisanat.
Tel (73) 224 008.
Jewellery shop in the centre of Sousse’s medina

Souks
Tunisia’s markets, which on the surface appear
to be chaotic, are in reality well-ordered spaces.
Every craft and every trade has its own allocated
position and place in a hierarchy. The closer
to the main mosque, the more numerous are the
“noble” souks – those selling gold, scents,
carpets and traditional Tunisian chechias (hats)
worn by men. Away from the centre, the souks Visitors can watch workmen decorating
become less prestigious, producing and selling copper plates. This is supposed to guarantee
wrought-iron products, as well as trading in meat its authenticity. For the best quality, try to
find where the Tunisians buy such items.
and vegetables.
A Tunisian souk is not only a place to shop and

trade. For the Tunisians it is also a place of fun
and recreation. Groups of friends in a café
playing a game of backgammon is a common
sight in souks.
Covered Bazaars
Since the 10th century the
Perfume-making
main streets and markets
and the production
of towns were illuminated of essences have
with lamps mounted on for years been
the walls of houses or on traditional Tunisian
the roofs covering the streets. crafts. Rose and
jasmine oils
In the 11th century the
are particularly
main streets that run across highly valued.
the souks began to branch
Perfume and jewellery can be bought in the into smaller ones that form
most elegant souks, situated near the main the present tangle of
mosque. They are easy to find as the intense narrow alleyways. This
fragrance of perfumes leads the way. Colourful labyrinth was ventilated by
and vibrant, these souks attract the most visitors. a system of roof openings.
The centre of the

medina (old quarter) is
the site of the most
important souks, which
remain open from
morning until night
with a break in the
afternoon. It is busy at
any time of day but
gets particularly
crowded during the
summer, when the
local shoppers are
joined by visitors.
Weavers’ workshops, as with the

workshops that produce leather or
wooden articles for sale, are often to be
found in the souks, directly behind the
shops that sell these goods.
The stone-paved Ventilation and

street of a souk illumination holes
in the vault of a
covered souk Tunisians like to shop in souks where
they can also buy clothes and
household goods. The shopping ritual
includes haggling and a thorough
inspection of the goods.
Fruit and vegetable markets were

often situated close to town gates to
make trade easier for market
gardeners. They give a glimpse
of present-day Tunisian life.
What to Buy in Tunisia

There is a wide range of products on sale in Tunisia. Much of
what is available has been produced by local craftsmen and it
pays to seek out items that have been made locally such as coral
jewellery from Tabarka or a sea sponge from the Gulf of Gabès.
Kairouan is famous for its carpets and leatherware; Nabeul and
Djerba for their ceramics; Sidi Bou Saïd for its intricately made
birdcages; Douz and Tozeur for footwear. If travelling in the south
of the country it is worth looking out for Berber products Ceramic vessel, Nabeul
including tapestries, beautiful ceramics and silver jewellery. Ceramics
The inhabitants of Guellala
on Djerba have long been
associated with pottery and
employ Berber motifs in
brown and beige. Nabeul
craftsmen favour bright
colourings dominated by
blue and green. Berber
ceramics from Sejnane are
also famous (see p138).
Woollen tapestry
Carpets
The best places to buy carpets are in Tunis, Kairouan, Tozeur and
Djerba. There are two basic types. Woven (Mergoum) carpets
predate Islam and have Berber origins. They are distinguished by
geometric patterns and sharply contrasting colours. Alloucha
carpets are knotted and feature natural tones. These can be
bought in Aïn Draham in northern Tunisia (see p133).
Bracelets A cobalt-decorated plate

Tunisian jewellery is mostly made of silver
or gold. The hedeyed is a wide bracelet that
is worn on the wrist. Bracelets for the
ankles are known as kholkal and are a
symbol of fidelity. The largest jewellery
centres are in Tunis, Sfax and Djerba.
Typical silver
bracelet, with a
fish motif
A richly embroidered waistcoat
Shoes
Leather shoes come in a wide
A headdress made of variety of designs. It is worth
golden leaves looking out for the traditional
balgha, which are worn mainly
Perfumes in the south of the country. In
When visiting a souk that the north you’ll find a more
specializes in perfume highly decorated version that
look out for jasmine oil, is worn by women.
as well as oil produced
from the damask rose.
Necklace White musk is also of a
made of good quality. A small
silver and bottle costs about 5 TD.
precious stones
Glass perfume bottle Traditional shoes

Mosaics
Many of the products on sale in Tunisia stem from
a variety of cultures and influences. Mosaics are a
prime example of this, and most museums and
souvenir shops sell ceramic tiles reminiscent of the
mosaics from Carthage, Dougga and El-Djem.
Cinnamon Pepper
Chichas
Water pipes, used for
smoking tobacco, can
be bought anywhere in
Tunisia, but the best
Paprika Rosemary ones are produced in Tunis.
Check that all the parts fit
together and that the air
flow is not obstructed.
The tobacco mixture
is readily available.
Most Tunisians
smoke an aromatic
Saffron Turmeric tobacco, flavoured
with such things as
apple or cherry.
Food and Drink
Tunisia produces good-quality wines and Chicha from Tunis
strong liqueurs such as boukha (a clear
spirit made from figs). When exploring a
souk look out for spices and home-made Tunisian
harissa (a spicy sauce). white wine Wooden Articles
The best wooden items
are made of olive wood.
A traditional Mostly produced in
ornamental Sfax, these make good
teapot souvenirs, especially
salad bowls and mortars.
Wooden mortar
and pestle
Other Souvenirs
A brass plate Probably the most typical Tunisian souvenir
is a stuffed camel. Every souvenir shop has
a large variety of them. Other popular
Metalwork souvenirs include woven mats, baskets,
Very popular traditional fans and the ubiquitous leather pouffes.
copper and brass items
for sale include trays,
bowls, vases and jugs
with distinctive narrow
necks. Trays can be
bought in several sizes,
up to 65 cm (26 inches)
in diameter, and in two
types of finishes – shiny
A decorative brass plaque or matt. A pouffe seat Leather pouffe
ENTERTAINMENT IN
TUNISIA
Tunisia has more to offer than beautiful and the tourist zone, however. The major
beaches, and the lively programme of cities have many clubs playing good music,
entertainment available to visitors is both although they are rarely visited by top
rich and varied. Many of the most interesting performers. Numerous festivals take place
events take place during the peak season. throughout the year and these are also
The big hotels provide their own nightly worth seeking out (see pp42–6). These
entertainment in the form of discos and lively events provide the best display
performances of traditional dance. It is of Tunisian culture and also a chance to
always worth venturing outside the hotel meet some of the locals.
Traditional Shows classical Arab music, but

A variety of traditional frequent guest appearances of
performances can be seen in world-class artists performing
many places throughout Tunisia. various types of music – from
Belly dancing is extremely flamenco to Chopin’s mazurkas
popular, as are the Berber shows or modern music.
and dances. A good show can Any local festivals held in
be seen in the M’Rabet café in towns and villages are usually
Tunis medina (see p267), which accompanied by music.
consists of a lively mix of
traditional folk music, Berber
dances and belly dancing. Festivals
The show is an additional Tunisia boasts a vast
cost on top of the meal. number of festivals, which
A novel alternative to belly are celebrated throughout
dancing is a traditional dance the year (see pp42–6).
with jugs (left), which might The reasons for
Evening performance of a jug-balancing be encountered on celebrations range
act in a hotel the island of Djerba. from marking the
end of the harvests
Information to events of religious
Information about major Music or cultural import-
cultural events and festivals can Sidi Bou Saïd’s ance. Many festivals
be found in French-language Centre of Arab Horse-riding display, the are of a local
newspapers, particularly La and Mediterranean Sahara Festival character. Most
Presse which, although it does Music puts on concerts and
not have listings pages, has a wonderful traditional concerts, shows are staged during
good cultural section. The ONTT which are held in the former July, August and Ramadan.
(Organization Nationale de palace of Baron d’Erlanger The big event of the summer
Tourisme Tunisien), with its (see p100). The varied is the Carthage International
main office in Tunis, publishes programme includes not only Festival. Its programme is
a number of brochures
containing information on
annual festivals, which can
be picked up in advance of a
trip. The programme for the
prestigious Carthage Inter-
national Festival can be found
in the local press or on the
internet. In June it is also
available from ONTT information
desks. The programme of the
Medina Festival, held annually
in Tunis during Ramadan, is
published about three weeks in
advance and is also available
from the ONTT. Evening concert in the El-Djem amphitheatre
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T U N I S I A 291
exceptionally rich, and includes

top performances of symphony
music, classical Arab music and
pop music. In addition, the
festival has theatre, ballet,
musicals, operas, cinema and
exhibitions. The main venue
for the events is the Roman
amphitheatre in Carthage
(see pp106–10). Another very
interesting event is the
Symphony Music Festival in
El-Djem (see p167). In the
evenings the amphitheatre Casino in the Sousse tourist zone
becomes a magnificent
concert hall under the stars. also a frequent venue for Many of Tunisia’s clubs are in
Hammamet’s Arab Music concerts of both classical the northern suburbs of Tunis,
Festival, held in July and August, and Arabic music. the most central being Romeo.
and the Jazz Festival held each Out in the suburbs, venues
year at the end of June in such as Les Jasmins, the
Tabarka are both very popular Nightlife Cotton Club, Queen and Hotel
events, as is Testour’s Inter- The big hotels usually run their Plaza Corniche play more
national Malouf Music own entertainment up-to-date dance music, and
Festival, which takes programmes which at greater volume. Outside of
place in June. include nightly Tunis, clubs tend to be attached
shows of belly to major hotels such as Abou
dancing and Nawas Montazah in Tabarka
Cinema performances of and Club Le Rameau in Sfax.
Going to the malouf (folk) music. Similar to European clubs in
movies is a Along with all this, music style and decor, Tunisia’s
popular Tunisian many hotels have clubs are popular with young
activity, with Ornate Théâtre Municipal in Tunis their own Tunisians who can sometimes
cinemas in Tunis, nightclubs, such experience problems when
Bizerte, Sousse and Sfax. as The Blue Moon attached to trying to get in, either because
Tunis has the best selection, the Hôtel Hasdrubal in Yasmine they are underage or do not
including the ABC and Le Hammamet and Hôtel meet with the door staff’s
Palace. The programme, Topkapi’s Le Pacha Club in approval. Many clubs in Tunisia
however, is aimed mostly at Mahdia. These put on shows close at about 1am.
young cinemagoers and by artists from various Arab
consists mainly of action films countries. Such places can be
shown in Arabic-language expensive and are frequented Casinos
versions. American and mainly by visitors. Casinos in Tunisia are found
European blockbusters are only in large towns and tourist
usually dubbed into French. zones. They operate during
Information on programmes the peak summer season and
can be found in the cultural are open only to foreigners,
section of La Presse. Ticket though the staff consists
prices start at around 3 TD entirely of Tunisians.
for a seat in the stalls. Two of the biggest are the
Cleopatra in Hammamet and
Casino Caraibe in Sousse.
Theatre Both are glitzy affairs with
Tunisia has only a handful of a floor-full of blackjack,
full-time theatre companies. poker and roulette tables,
The best known and the most bars, restaurants and live
prestigious of the few that do entertainment. An option in the
exist is in Tunis, and performs south is the Casino de Djerba.
in the Théâtre Municipal In order to be allowed
(see p86). Its programme is to play, visitors must show
dominated by the works of their passports or ID cards.
European playwrights, but Only convertible currencies
it also puts on some Arab are accepted. Men visiting
(mainly Egyptian) plays. The casinos are expected to dress
splendid theatre building is A live performance in a Tunisian club smartly in a suit and tie.
Children’s Activities
Exploring ancient remains
such as those at Dougga is
fascinating but not to every
child’s taste. Fortunately, most
hotels in the tourist zones have
beach play areas for children.
These are well organized and
have trained supervisors to keep
young guests entertained.
Activities in these children’s
play areas range from beach
volleyball and rounders to
closely supervised paragliding
taster sessions. Lessons in tennis
and windsurfing for children
can also usually be arranged.
If staying in the south of the Visitors exploring the ancient ruins in Dougga
country children will enjoy a
visit to Tozeur’s Dar Cheraït Amusement Parks of a huge air-conditioned tent
museum (see below). Situated close to the town of (used for concerts, occasional
The north of the country has Bou Ficha, 35 km (22 miles) receptions and Ramadan
several funfairs. The best known from Hammamet and 58 km dinners), a row of fountains
of these is Parc des Loisirs Dah (36 miles) from Sousse, is Park and an amphitheatre seating
Dah situated on the outskirts of Friguia. This is a large recreation 2,000 spectators. The stage is
Tunis, which has rides, merry-go- area, which combines a small, built on the Saharan sand, with
rounds and other amusements. but well-run zoo with an the natural backdrop of palm
Parc des Loisirs Bah Bah on amusement park. It is run by the trees. It makes the most of
Djerba is a more modest affair Tunisian forestry commission state-of-the-art laser effects
with a small fairground and and has a collection of African to stage spectacular concerts
bumper cars. Another popular animals including crocodiles, and open-air events. Planet
place for family outings is giraffes and elephants. As well Oasis also has regular displays
Belvedere Park in Tunis. This as the amusement area, of handicrafts such as glass
is Tunis’s largest park and has which has all the usual rides, blowing, painting, leatherwork
plenty of room for children to the park also includes a number and pottery.
let off steam. There is a small of restaurants and a venue Tunisia’s largest water park is
zoo in its southern section, and for performances of malouf undoubtedly Acqua Palace at
also a small but informative (folk) music. Port el-Kantaoui. With water
exhibition on the plants and Tozeur has a private chutes, slides, drops, tunnels,
wildlife of Tunisia (see p91). ethnography museum, Dar whirlpools and every other kind
Children may enjoy a trip to Cheraït, whose formula vastly of splashy fun, Acqua Palace
the Oceanographic Museum exceeds that of a mere provides an enjoyable way for
at Carthage where life beneath museum. It is devoted to the children both big and small to
the waves can be discovered history and everyday life of find some cooling relief from
thanks to the numerous southern Tunisia. One section the hot Tunisian sun.
aquariums, scale models, carries visitors to the world of
educational boards and the Thousand and One Nights,
interactive displays. where they will meet, among
others, Ali Baba and the
40 Thieves, Sinbad the Sailor
and Scheherazade. This display
is deservedly popular with
children and includes secret
labyrinths, ghosts, fire-eaters
and a hall of mirrors. The fairy-
tale stories are accompanied by
accounts of everyday life
in Arabic countries. The
museum is best visited in the
evening when it is festooned
with fairy lights. Planet Oasis
can be found in the palm
Crocodiles at Park Friguia, among the groves close to Tozeur. This The beach – a favourite place for children
dozens of species that can be seen vast cultural complex consists and adults alike
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N T U N I S I A 293
DIRECTORY
Music The Blue Moon Nirvana Children’s
Hasdrubal Thalassa, Tourist zone, Gammarth. Activities
Centre of Arab and Yasmine Hammamet. Tel (20) 910 000.
Mediterranean Music Tel (72) 244 000. ∑ nirvana.com
Belvedere Park
Rue 2 Mars 8, Sidi Bou Tel (71) 890 386.
Saïd. Tel (71) 740 102. Le boeuf sur le toit Le Pacha ∑ aab.planet.tn
∑ cmam.nat.tn Av. Fattouma, Hôtel Riu Royal Garden,
Midoun. Park de Loisirs
La Soukra, Tunis.
Bah Bah
Cinemas Tel (71) 764 807. Tel (75) 745 777.
Rue 20 Mars,
ABC Calypso Le Pacha Club Houmt Souk, Djerba.
Rue ibn Khaldoun 8, Tunis. Av. Moncef Bey, Route Corniche, Hôtel Tel (75) 621 480.
Tel (71) 336 360. Hammamet. Topkapi, Mahdia.
Tel (73) 671 435.
Park de Loisirs
Tel (72) 227 530.
Alhambra Dah Dah
∑ calypsotunisia.com Queen
Marsa Plage, Tunis. Berges de Lac, Tunis.
Club Le Rameau Hôtel Karim, Gammarth. Tel (71) 860 888.
Tel (71) 980 966.
Av. H. Bourguiba, Tel (71) 912 188.
Oceanograpic
Colisée Hôtel Golden Tulip, Sfax. ∑ hotelkarim.tn
Av. H. Bourguiba 45, Tunis. Museum
Tel (74) 225 700. Rancho Club Rue 2 Mars 1934 28,
Tel (70) 731 986.
Club Pin’s Av. Moncef Bey, Carthage.
Le Palace Hotel Mehari, Tabarka. Hammamet. Tel (71) 730 420.
Av. Habib Bourguiba 54, Tel (78) 670 184. Tel (72) 226 462.
Tunis. Tel (71) 344 755. Amusement
Cotton Club Romeo
Parks
Theatres Hôtel Nova Park, Golden Tulip el-Mechtel,
Gammarth. Av. Ouled Hafouz, Tunis. Acqua Palace
El-Hamra Tel (71) 913 766. Tel (71) 783 200. Rue des Palmiers,
Rue el-Jazira 28, Tunis. Sahara Club Port el-Kantaoui.
Tel (71) 320 734. Le Crocodile
Route Touristique, Hôtel Tel (73) 348 855.
∑ theatrelhamra.com
Route Touristique Nord,
Sahara Beach, Monastir. ∑ acquapalace@
Hôtel le Président,
Tel (73) 521 088. planet.tn
El-Teatro Hammamet.
El-Omrane, Tunis. Tel (72) 280 211. Tropicana Centre d’Animation
Tel (71) 894 313. Route Touristique, Touristique les
Disco Marina Yasmine Grottes
Etoile du Nord Hôtel Marina Palace, Hammamet.
Tel (72) 227 200. Route des Grottes,
Av. Farhat Hached, Tunis. Hammamet. El-Haouaria.
Tel (71) 254 066. Tel (72) 248 748. Turquoise Tel (72) 297 296.
Théâtre Municipal El-Barka Hôtel Abou Nawas Fax (72) 269 070.
Rue de Grèce 2, Tunis. Hôtel Penelope, Djerba, Sidi Mahares.
Tel (75) 757 022. Dar Cheraït
Tel (71) 259 499. Houmt Souk. Route Touristique, Tozeur.
∑ theatremunicipal Tel (75) 731 456. Yamama Tel (76) 454 888.
tunis.gov.tn Corniche, Hôtel Abou Fax (76) 454 472.
Guitoune
Nawas Nejma, Sousse. ∑ darcherait.com.tn
Nightlife Av. Moncef Bey,
Tel (73) 226 811.
Hammamet. Park Friguia
Abou Nawas On route GP1 between
Montazah
Hotel Plaza Corniche Casinos
22 Carthago, Tunis. Enfida and Bou Ficha.
Route Touristique, Casino Caraibe Tel (26) 555 255.
Tel (71) 743 577.
Tabarka. Av. 7 Novembre, Sousse. ∑ friguia-park.com
Tel (78) 673 532. Hotel Sfax Centre Tel (73) 211 777.
Sfax. Tel (74) 225 700. Planet Oasis
Adonis Fax (73) 211 798.
Tozeur.
Hôtel Yadis Thalasso Hotel Yadis Dar Cleopatra Tel (76) 460 310.
Golf, Midoun. Morjane Hotel Occidental, ∑ planet-oasis.com
Tel (75) 747 410. Tabarka. Hammamet.
Tel (78) 673 411. Tel (72) 226 935.
La Baleine
Fax (72) 226 315.
Tourist zone, Les Jasmins
Hôtel Golf Beach, Rue Bach Hamba 6. Casino Hammamet
Tabarka. Tel (71) 736 016. Yasmine, Hammamet Sud.
Tel (78) 673 002. Tel (72) 241 051.
Las Vegas
La Bamba Route Touristique Nord, Casino de Djerba
Seabel Alhambra Hotel, Hôtel Nahrawess, Tourist zone, Sidi Mehrez.
Port el-Kantaoui. Hammamet. Tel (75) 755 737.
Tel (73) 246 477. Tel (72) 283 077. ∑ casinodjerba.com
SPORT IN TUNISIA
Football is Tunisia’s favourite sport and done well in athletics and also in sports
men often gather in large groups to watch such as handball and volleyball, achieving
matches live on TV. Another popular sport world-class results. Tunisian swimmers
is the Dakar Rally, which from time to time have also been successful. Most notably,
passes through the Tunisian desert on its at the Olympic Games in Beijing in 2008
route from Europe to Senegal. Since the Oussama Mellouli won a gold medal in
late 1960s, Tunisian athletes have often the men’s 1,500 metres freestyle event.
FIFA. Currently, the coach of

the Tunisian national team is
Bertrand Marchand.
Tunisia’s match season starts
in early October and finishes at
the end of March. Most games
are played on Saturdays and
Sundays, with a 3pm kick-off.
Up-to-date information about
matches can be found in the
local press or via the Tunisian
Football Federation’s website
Tunisia’s national football team in action at www.ftf.org.tn
Football is fiercely contested each year
As elsewhere in Africa, football by the major clubs. Tunisia’s Hot-air Ballooning
is a passion in Tunisia and it’s National Cup is held each year Tunisia provides favourable
not hard to find a game on and provides the lower league conditions for hot-air
television. Watching football clubs with an opportunity to ballooning. The areas on the
matches is almost a ritual in play some of the top teams. outskirts of the Sahara Desert
many traditional Tunisian cafés. A local celebrity in Tunisian are especially popular and are
Viewers react with great passion football is “the golden boy” used as locations for many of
during live transmissions and Ali Zitouni, the talented the competitions that attract
the outcome of a game is a forward formerly of Espérance entries from all over the world.
matter of some importance to Sportive who now plays for Hot-air balloons taking off from
many Tunisian football fans. Turkish team Antalyaspor and this region can sometimes travel
Demand for tickets is high, competed with the national hundreds of kilometres.
so anyone wishing to see a team at the 2004 Olympics.
game should arrive at the Tunisia have reached the
ground well before kick-off. finals of the World Cup four Rallies
Tunisia’s national team ranks as times (1978, 1998, 2002 and The first Paris–Dakar Rally
one of the best on the African 2006) and have been ranked as began on 26 November 1978,
continent and won the African highly as 21st in the world by with 170 entrants. Now the
Nations Cup in 2004 when they
beat Morocco 2–1. Tunisian
league teams are also successful
and usually reach the later stages
of continental club competitions.
Two particularly outstanding
teams are Etoile Sportive du
Sahel from Sousse and Tunis’s
Espérance Sportive, which plays
at the El-Menzah ground at the
Cité Olympique. Other teams
that are also successful are Club
Africain (which is also from Tunis
and shares its ground with
Espérance Sportive), Club
Sfaxien, based in Sfax, and
Club Athletique Bizerte.
As in other countries, the
Tunisian League championship Hot-air balloons over the Sahara Desert
SPORT IN TUNISIA 295
events include an annual race

from Malta (Valletta) to Port
el-Kantaoui and another
from Marseille to Tabarka.
Other Sports
In 2001, during the Judo World
Championships held in Korea,
Anisa Lounife became the first
Muslim woman to win a gold
medal at judo. Swimming has
really surged in popularity in
Tunisia since Oussama Mellouli
Rally car navigating northern Tunisia’s rough terrain became the first African male
swimmer to win an Olympic
event is known as the Dakar after winning medals in three gold medal in an individual
Rally and traditionally starts on consecutive Olympic Games. event, at the Beijing Olympics
1 January, in France. Each year In 1964 he won a silver medal in 2008. He went on to win
the route of the rally, split into in Tokyo in the 10,000-m race. five gold medals at the
several sections, is changed, At the Olympic Games in Mediterranean Games and
but it always leads through Mexico City four years later, one at the World Aquatic
rough terrain and across the he picked up a gold medal Championships in 2009.
Saharan sands. The last time for the 5,000 m, and then took The Tunisian basketball team
the rally passed through a silver at the 1972 Munich is one of the best in Africa. In
Tunisia was in 2003 when Olympics for the same distance. 2009 the team came third in
two of the legs took in Tunis, Tunisian runners have also Africa’s Basketball Championship.
Tozeur and El-Borma. Vehicles achieved numerous successes In 2010, Tunisia defeated
participating in this punishing in world championships and Egypt to win the African Cup.
race include lorries, cross- excel in medium- and long- Though the Tunisian team does
country cars and motorcycles. distance running. not have many tall players
Also of interest is the vintage (the tallest is just over 2 m
car rally which takes place in (6 ft 6 in), Tunisian players have
Belvedere Park, Tunis (see p91), Handball a world reputation and have
usually in late autumn. Handball is a game played on competed in the Czech
a court similar to that used in Republic and Poland.
squash. It is very popular in Windsurfing is another sport
Athletics Tunisia and receives plenty of that is becoming increasingly
Tunisia has many talented TV and press coverage. popular in Tunisia and the
athletes. In 2001 the country The men’s team has partici- country was represented in the
was proud to host the pated several times in world Athens Olympics for this event.
Mediterranean Games. championships and also at the Volleyball has many followers
The most famous runner Olympic Games, and the Tunisian and is particularly popular
in Tunisia is Mohammed squad continually ranks among with Tunisian women. The
Gammoudi. Born in 1938, he the world’s leading teams. high popularity of this sport
became a national celebrity is due to several spectacular
victories, such as in the African
Sailing Championships held in Lagos in
Tunisia is a sailor’s paradise, 1997, when the Tunisian team
with its 1200-km-long (746-mile) defeated Cameroon 3–0.
coastline, countless bays and
coves, and an average
air temperature of 18° C (64° F).
Costs for sailing in Tunisia
are very attractive, and lower
than in other parts of the
Mediterranean. The country
has five large marinas. Port
el-Kantaoui has 320 spaces
for yachts, Sidi Bou Saïd’s
harbour can accommodate
380 vessels, and Monastir’s
marina has space for 386 boats. Tunisian judo competitors at the
Tunisian runner at the Mexico City Olympics The most important sailing Korean Olympics
ACTIVITIES FOR VISITORS

Tunisia’s climate makes the country dunes and sand-yachting on the salt
an exceptional place for all types of flats of Chott el-Jerid, are specialities
outdoor activity. Visitors naturally favour of the southern region. Horse riding
water sports, including diving and sailing. on the beaches of Djerba and Zarzis is
Tourist zones have excellent golf courses a popular activity, as is camel trekking
– the best ones are in Port el-Kantaoui, across the desert. Tunisia’s national
while the most scenic ones are located parks and the mountains around Aïn
around Tabarka. More exotic sports, Draham offer visitors plenty of
such as paragliding, surfing on the opportunities for hiking.
Tabarka is not the only place

where it is possible to go
diving, however. The
International Diving Centre
in Port el-Kantaoui is open all
year round and provides
facilities for more experienced
divers as well as running
courses for beginners. Ideal
conditions for exploring the
beauty of the underwater
world can also be found in
Hergla, 15 km (9 miles) north
of Port el-Kantaoui. Most diving
clubs insist that divers are
Catamarans off the beach at Djerba over 14 years old.
Diving is less than 20 minutes from
Some of the Mediterranean’s Tabarka and comprises a Other Water Sports
best diving and snorkelling can complex of tunnels, caves and Tunisia is a great place for
be enjoyed in Tunisia. One of caverns some 18 m (60 ft) windsurfing, which can be
the most beautiful places to go below sea level. Club de enjoyed all year round,
is the coral reef off Tabarka Plongée, which is by the yacht although between December
where the clear, warm waters, jetty in Tabarka, also organizes and April it is advisable to
coral and seawater beds are taster excursions for total wear a wetsuit because the
ideal for underwater explor- beginners as well as a 7-day sea is so cool. One of the best
ation. Ten minutes by boat course for less experienced windsurfing schools is situated
are enough to get to rocks divers. They also rent out boats in Sidi Bou Saïd. Favourable
surrounded by red coral. A little and diving equipment. conditions for the sport are also
bit further on are magnificent found in Hammamet, Sousse
tunnels, grottoes, underwater and on Djerba. Seaside tourist
caves and caverns. resorts offer water skis for hire.
The warm sea and a vigorous
and sustained programme of Paragliding
conservation mean that the reef Another popular sport in Tunisia
is teeming with fish and other is paragliding and lessons from
marine life. There are as many qualified instructors can usually
as six sites open to divers; each be arranged. Having the right
looks different and requires a equipment for this activity is
different level of ability. essential and you should make
The yacht club in Tabarka sure this is supplied by the club
and the International Diving or instructor when booking.
Centre organize excursions to
the reef for more experienced Hiking
divers. The most popular site is Tunisia’s national parks are
Roche Merou – the Miller’s splendid hiking grounds. An
Thumb Rock – where divers can ideal place for this type of
swim amid rainbow-coloured activity is Ichkeul National Park –
fish. La Tunelle, or Tunnels Reef, Paragliding, a popular activity one of the largest wintering
ACTIVITIES FOR VISITORS 297
sites for birds in the whole

of the Mediterranean basin
(see pp140–41). Jebel Ichkeul,
on the lake’s south side, has a
number of sandy footpaths
leading through hills overgrown
with wild olive trees. In the
spring it can be carpeted with
wild flowers.
Another great place is the
Boukornine National Park.
Situated near Tunis, it is full of
Persian cyclamens that flower
in the spring. Excellent conditions
can also be found in the Caravan with tourists leaving Zaafrane
Khroumirie Mountains (see
p134), near Aïn Draham, where The price per day (which includes Cycling, 4x4 and
it is possible to climb to the top all the necessary equipment and Motorbike Trips
of Jebel Bir (1,041 m/3,415 ft) meals) is usually about 30–35 TD. All hotels offer bicycles for hire
and the Col des Ruines over- An hour-long ride costs far less. and tourist resorts also often
looking the village. When embarking on a camel run bike-hire services. Always
trek take a down-filled sleeping check the condition of the hired
bag (nights are cold in the bicycle before accepting it
desert), a rolled-up sleeping (usually it is far from perfect).
mat, a pair of loose trousers and Djerba and the coast of Sahel
a large cotton scarf to protect are ideal areas for cycling. If
the head and neck from the sun cycling around the country, take
and wind. A water flask is, of a set of spare parts such as inner
course, vital. A tasty snack for the tubes as there are practically no
camel may also come in handy. service and repair facilities
Another important item when outside the main towns.
travelling in the desert is a well- A popular option in Southern
stocked first-aid kit. As well as Tunisia is a desert safari by car.
painkillers, carry also a general Travelling in a 4x4 over sand
antibiotic, a snake-bite serum, dunes is enormous fun, and
antihistamine and a remedy for offers more speed and comfort
gastric conditions. Also, don’t than a camel. It is still advisable
Wild boar hunting around Aïn Draham forget sunglasses, eye-drops, to take a first-aid kit on a 4x4
sun-block lip cream and large safari, however.
Hunting quantities of suncream. Ideal A motorbike is an ideal
The forests around Aïn Draham months for such a trip are April, vehicle for exploring the
are popular with hunters in October and November as the country. However, there is only
search of wild boar. The season temperature is then cooler. In one rental firm in Tunisia –
lasts from October until Feb- December and January, however, Holiday Bikes on Djerba. Anyone
ruary. Hunting also takes place night temperatures can drop to wishing to hire a motorbike
around El-Haouaria, Sbeïtla, freezing. March brings sand- must be at least 21 years of age
Zaghouan and Ichkeul. Special storms, while July and August and hold a valid motorbike
licences are required and can are far too hot. driving licence.
only be obtained by people who
are part of an organized tour.
Camel Trekking
Those dreaming of a real desert
adventure should try a several
day- or several week-long trek
across the sands of the Great
Eastern Erg on a camel. The
most popular journey is a five-
day trek from Douz to Ksar
Ghilane. Shorter rides are also
available and for a few dinars it
is possible to enjoy just an hour-
long camel ride. Driving a jeep across the desert – a taste of the Dakar Rally
seawater combined with

seaweed or mud in order to
alleviate such common ailments
as stress, rheumatism and
arthritis. Many people enjoy it
for its own sake, however, and
thalassotherapy centres tend to
be attached to hotels that also
run life-enhancing programmes
such as quitting smoking. They
usually also promote healthy
eating in their restaurants. Three
of the best are the Abou Nawas,
Sousse, the Residence Hotel,
Carthage and the Hasdrubal
Riders on a beach in Djerba Thalassa, Hammamet.
Horse Riding All of these offer a good range
Horse riding is available in of facilities, including equipment Other Activities
many seaside resorts in Tunisia hire, bars and restaurants. There are relatively few facilities
as well as in the areas close to Friendly instructors are ready to for extreme sports in Tunisia.
the hotels that run their own assist those new to the sport. Nevertheless, there are some
riding stables. Many hotels can arrange unusual attractions on offer for
The most popular place for transfers to and from courses those who seek high-octane
horse riding is Djerba. The and also pre-set teeing-off thrills. Most of them are
island also has the greatest times. Few of the clubs have associated with the southern
number of riding stables. stringent membership regions of the country and with
Here, it is possible to gallop requirements though some of the Sahara Desert.
for hours along virtually the larger ones may ask for a Thrill-seekers should certainly
deserted beaches. Horse riding valid handicap certificate before try sand-skiing and sand-
at sunrise or sunset can be an they will allow a new player on yachting. The latter is carried
unforgettable experience. the course. Failing that, a letter out on the dunes around Kelibia
of introduction from a home and Douz, while sand-skiing is
club will often be sufficient. practised in the El-Faour oasis,
Golf The top golf course in Tunisia 30 km (19 miles) from Douz. The
Although Tunisia does not have is the El-Kantaoui. This 36-hole, hard bottom of the dry Chott
many golf courses, its climate professional course has a el-Jerid salt flat is perfect for
is exceptionally favourable for championship layout that the use of sand-yachts.
the sport. Tunisia is firmly winds through the olive groves Any kind of flying is also very
established on the international opposite the marina. Twenty popular in Tunisia. The Sahara
golf circuit and many people minutes from Tunis is the Desert offers good conditions
come to the country with the 18-hole Carthage Golf Course, for flying light aircraft. This
sole purpose of playing golf. which was founded in 1927. sport is, however, rather
There are a handful of top- Two top-quality 18-hole courses expensive and depends
quality golf courses available. are located in Monastir and very much on the weather.
Hammamet, while in Bir Bou
Regba, near Hammamet, there
is a 9-hole course. Djerba also
has a golf club, which comprises
three 9-hole courses. Tabarka’s
golf course is in the tourist zone
and is set in a picturesque
landscape of eucalyptus and
olive trees overlooking the
coast. The club features an
18-hole, 72-par course and a
9-hole practice course for less
experienced players.
Thalassotherapy
Tunisia is second only to France
Golfer on a course near in terms of its thalassotherapy A microlight aircraft preparing for a flight
Port el-Kantaoui facilities. This treatment uses hot over the Sahara
ACTIVITIES FOR VISITORS 299
DIRECTORY
Diving Boat Charter Golf Calypso Voyages
Avenue H. Bourguiba 69,
DJERBA PORT ELKANTAOUI DJERBA Houmt Souk.
Gold Beach Djerba Tunisie Sailing Djerba Golf Club Tel (75) 620 561.
Tel (75) 750 750. Tourist zone, Midoun. Fax (75) 620 558.
Quai Amilcar.
Fax (75) 733 079. Tel (75) 745 055. ∑ calypso.voyages@
Tel (73) 246 588.
Fax (75) 745 051. planet.tn
HAMMAMET Fax (73) 348 490.
HAMMAMET Centrale de
Club Nabil Jegham Motor Rallies Voyages (La)
Tel (72) 227 211. Fax (72) Golf Yasmine
Av. Mohamed Badra,
226 304. ∑ nabil. Touring Club 61. Tel (72) 227 001.
Djerba.
jegham@ planet.tn de Tunisie MONASTIR Tel (75) 652 815.
HERGLA Rue d’Allemagne 15, Fax (75) 623 704.
Flamingo Golf
Tunis. 168, Rte Ouerdanine. Comptoir de
Hergla Scuba Dive
Tel (71) 323 114. Tel (73) 500 284. la Tunisie
Centre
Fax (71) 324 834. 162, Houmt Souk.
Tel (73) 251 387. PORT ELKANTAOUI
∑ touringclubtunisie. Tel (75) 653 3000.
Fax (73) 251 388.
∑ scuba-hergla.8m.com org El-Kantaoui Golf Fax (75) 652 931.
Tel (73) 348 756. ∑ cdd-tn.com
MONASTIR Bicycle Hire Fax (73) 348 755.
Desert Explorer
Plongée et Loisirs All tourist hotels have TABARKA 24 Avenue Chebbi,
Monastir bicycles for hire. Tozeur.
Cap Marina Monastir.
Tabarka Golf
Route touristique, Tel (76) 461 950.
Tel/Fax (73) 462 509. Horse Riding El-Morjane. ∑ choosedex.com
∑ plongee-monastir.
DJERBA Tel (78) 670 038. Djerba Voyages
com
Fax (78) 671 026. Rue ibn Khaldun 2, Tunis.
TABARKA Hôtel Riu Royal Tel (71) 240 105.
TUNIS
Garden Palace Fax (71) 337 212.
Aquamarin
Tel (75) 745 777. Golf de Carthage
Tel (78) 673 408. Dream Travel
∑ riu.com Choutrana 2, La Soukra.
Fax (78) 761 866. Route de l’Aéroport,
Tel (71) 765 700.
Loisirs de Tabarka Hôtel Coralia Club Houmt Souk.
Tel (78) 670 664. Fax (78) Palm Beach Thalassotherapy Tel (75) 673 451.
673 801. ∑ diving. Tel (75) 757 404. Fax (75) 673 504.
CARTHAGE ∑ dreamtravel-tunisie.
tunisie@planet.tn
Royal Carriage com
The Residence
Mehari Diving Center Club
697, Les Côtes de Douz Voyages
“Le Merdu” Route Touristique. Carthage. Tel (71) 910 101.
Tel (78) 673 136. Place de l’Indépendance,
Tel (75) 759 084. Fax (71) 910 144.
Fax (78) 673 868. Douz.
Fax (75) 759 084.
DJERBA Tel (75) 470 178.
Valtur Tabarka ∑ royalcarriageclub. Fax (75) 470 315.
Tel (78) 670 000. com Hasdrubal ∑ douzvoyages.chez.
Fax (78) 671 770. Tel (75) 730 650. com
MAHDIA
HAMMAMET Hafsi Travel
Yacht Marinas Hôtel Cap Mahdia
Hasdrubal Thalassa Route de Nefta, Tozeur.
Tel (73) 680 300.
HAMMAMET Yasmine Hammamet. Tel (76) 452 611.
Marina Yasmine Sud Hôtel Thapsus Tel (72) 248 800. Fax (76) 452 455.
Tel (73) 683 538. Fax (72) 248 923.
Rue Jaafar el-Barmaki 3. Houria Voyages
Tel (72) 241 111. Fax (73) 694 476. SOUSSE Zone Touristique, Tozeur.
Fax (72) 241 212. TUNIS Tel (76) 461 022.
Abou Nawas
∑ yasmine.com.tn Fax (76) 462 029.
Club Hippique Avenue Habib Bourguiba.
MONASTIR Tel (73) 226 030. Sable d’Or
de la Soukra
Fax (73) 226 595. Voyages
Marina Cap Monastir Tel (71) 765 619.
Avenue d’Afrique 26
Tel (73) 462 305. Trips to the Sahara
Hippodrome de Menzah, Tunis.
Fax (73) 464 999.
Ksar Said Tel (71) 237 303.
Au Coeur du Désert
TABARKA Tel (71) 653 938. Fax (71) 237 505.
Rue Abou Kassem
Montazah Tabarka Fax (71) 653 297. el-Chabbi, Tozeur. Sud Tourisme
Tel (78) 670 599. ∑ stedecoursesdetunis Tel (76) 453 570. Residence Habib, Tunis.
Fax (78) 673 595. @email.ati.tn ∑ tunisiedesert.com Tel (71) 724 184.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 302–311

Travel Information 312–319
302 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tunisia is a visitor-friendly place and, in For instance, exposed shoulders and the
its outlook, is probably one of the most wearing of miniskirts by women are
“Western” of all Islamic countries. Within considered inappropriate. Mosques,
resorts and hotels visitors may behave as particularly prayer halls, are not open to
they would at home. When venturing non-Muslims. Although Tunisia is a Muslim
further afield, however, it is important to country, it follows the European calendar
be aware of local attitudes and customs. and has adopted Sunday as its day of rest.
at this time. The daytime Passports and Visas

temperature may be 25° C Citizens of the European Union
(75° F) one day, and suddenly and nationals of the United
drop to just a few degrees States and Canada, Australia
above freezing the next. and New Zealand require a
On windy days the cold can valid passport to visit Tunisia. It
feel acute, particularly on should be valid for at least six
the Cap Bon peninsula and months after the date of arrival,
in the northern regions of the and will allow visits of up to
country. These cold spells three months without a visa for
never last long, however. citizens of the EU, USA, Canada
In the main, the best and Australia. New Zealanders
seasons for visiting Tunisia should apply for a visa in
are spring and autumn when advance of their trip. For stays
sightseeing can be combined exceeding three months, most
with sea-bathing. The best visitors will need to obtain a
time to visit the south is from visa. If in doubt, contact the
early September until May, Tunisian Embassy, or seek
but trips to the desert should advice from a travel agent.
Visitors resting on the steps of the ideally be undertaken in
Great Mosque, Tunis September, October or March,
when the daytime temperature Customs Regulations
When to Visit is 25–28° C (77–82° F). The The limits on what can be taken
Holidays can be taken in Tunisia main festival period is in in and out of the country are
at any time of the year. The summer. During Ramadan stated in detail in customs
hot summer season lasts from the shops stay open until late. regulations. Duty-free allowances
May until early October, Concerts and poetry evenings include 1 litre of spirits, 2 litres of
although the heat is moderated are held at numerous venues wine, 400 cigarettes, 250 ml of
by the sea breezes on the coast. in the medinas of Tunis and perfume, two cameras, 20 rolls of
Summer is the best time for Kairouan. On Djerba, the film and one video camera. There
sunbathing on the beach and holiday season lasts most are no limits on the amount of
swimming. If venturing inland of the year, though the sea foreign currency visitors may
or to the south of the country, cools off towards the end bring in. Tunisia has certain rules
however, then it can get unbear- of October. on the value of items brought
ably hot during the summer
months; the heat is particularly
intense in the mountain valleys.
In autumn, cold currents
coming from the northwest
Atlantic can bring wind and rain.
Then, the temperature drops to
20–24° C (68–74° F), though
the sea remains warm. The
most rainfall can be expected
in the north.
During winter the days
are warm and mostly sunny,
with temperatures between
16 and 24° C (61 and 75° F),
but be prepared for weather
changes as some of the most
unpredictable weather occurs Transport for holiday-makers in Sousse
People riding camels in the Sahara Desert
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 303
towns. Small information

desks are also in some selected
museums. Some of them
hand out free pamphlets
and detailed road maps, but
there is not likely to be much
detailed information from
these small ONTT offices
regarding sightseeing,
transport or obtaining hotel
accommodation. The ONTT
also has an office in London,
however, which can provide
Tourist information office in Houmt Souk on Djerba information on all aspects of
Tunisia (see p251).
into the country and it is apart from a few basic phrases.
advisable to declare items such In the main markets almost all
as expensive cameras on arrival languages can be heard. This Facilities for the Disabled
to save confusion when leaving. is especially the case with There are not many facilities
You can buy various products shopkeepers, who encourage for wheelchair users in Tunisia.
in duty-free shops, using any tourists to buy in as many Wheelchair ramps are rarely
convertible currency. Note that languages as they can think of. seen and many of the major
Tunisian duty-free shops do not Tunisia’s Berber population has sights are inaccessible to
take dinars and that prices of its own language, though the wheelchair users for this reason.
products bought in shops may majority speak Arabic these The Association Générale
be slightly higher than such days. Tunisian children are des Insuffisant Moteurs de
prices in town. generally able to speak French Tunis can provide information
All foreign visitors must pay and English, as these are taught for wheelchair users visiting
a departure tax of 30 TD. This in school from primary level. Tunisia (see p251).
is paid in the form of a stamp
bought at a post office or bank
prior to departure. Students
Students up to 32 years of age
holding a valid International
Language Road sign to the Dar Jellouli Museum Student Identity Card (ISIC) may
Arabic is the official language of in Sfax be entitled to concessions in
Tunisia. French is also in common museums, historic buildings and
use and most educated Tunisians Tourist Information archaeological sites. They may
are bilingual. The staff working ONTT Tourist Information also be entitled to reduced
in tourist zones will usually also Bureaux (Organization travel fares within the country.
speak English but with a local Nationale de Tourisme Tunisien) Tunisia also has a network of
dialect. Outside tourist zones can be found at all the major youth hostels that admits YHA
English is virtually unknown, airports, as well as in larger card holders.
DIRECTORY
Embassies US Embassy Regional ONTT Monastir
Les Berges du Lac, Tunis. Offices Opposite airport,
British Embassy Monastir. Tel (73) 461 960.
Tel (71) 107 000.
Rue du Lac Windermere, Bizerte ∑ crtmo.ontt@email.
Fax (71) 963 263.
Les Berges du Lac, 1053 Bizerte Resort Hotel, Route ati.tn
Note: Australians should Sidi Salem. Tel (72) 432
Tunis. Tel (71) 108 700. Nabeul
contact the Canadian 897 or 438 600. ∑ crtb.
Canadian Embassy Embassy; New Zealanders Avenue Taieb Mehiri.
ontt@email.ati.tn
Tel (72) 286 737.
Lot 24 Rue de Feuille the British Embassy.
Djerba ∑ crtn.ontt@email.ati.tn
d’Erable, Cité Les Pins, Les
Information Blvd. de l’Environnement, Sousse
Berges du Lac 11, Tunis.
Houmt Souk. Tel (75) 650 Av. Habib Bourguiba 1.
Tel (71) 010 200 or
ONTT Main Office 016. Fax (75) 650 586. Tel (73) 225 157.
268 080. ∑ crtd.ontt@email.
Avenue Mohamed V 1, ∑ crts.ontt@email.ati.tn
Tunisian Embassy Tunis. ati.tn
Tabarka
29 Prince’s Gate, Tel (71) 341 077. Mahdia Av. Habib Bourguiba 32,
London, SW7 1QG. Fax (71) 341 145. Rue el Moez. Tabarka. Tel (78) 671 491.
Tel (020) 7584 8117. ∑ tourisme.gov.tn Tel (73) 681 098. ∑ crtt.ontt@email.ati.tn
304 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Customs and Etiquette

Although open to new ideas, Tunisians cherish their
traditions, observing the Ramadan fast and celebrating
Muslim feasts with great ceremony and devotion. Many
Tunisian men enjoy spending their time in cafés, playing
games and smoking chichas (hookahs). Women spend much
time within their own family circles. Visits to hammams
(steam baths) are popular. Pre-wedding customs including
a “henna night” are also widespread.
Meals of charge. Sometimes harissa

Breakfast tends to be a light (a spicy sauce) with olive oil
meal in Tunisia, consisting of appears on the table. This is
coffee, baguette with perhaps eaten with bread, or may be Tunisian man dressed in traditional
honey or olive oil, or cakes. The added to any other dish. white attire
resort hotels, however, usually Tunisia’s national dish is
offer a large selection of dishes couscous. It comes in several Young people dress in styles
for breakfast. Lunch may also varieties; the most popular of similar to those found in
be light, and is taken between them are made with lamb, European countries. The official
noon and 3pm. It may consist chicken, fish or vegetables. dress for a man is a suit.
of brik à l’oeuf (egg inside an Traditional Tunisian attire,
envelope of pastry) or a main including the sifsari, is worn
course with salad. mainly by older women and
Many restaurants have special is more common in the
lunch menus; these are usually provinces. Berber women
offered at reduced prices. living in Chenini wear red-and-
Dinner is eaten in the evening, white checked veils.
around 8pm. There is no need The red chechia hat is often
for any misgivings about eating worn by men to complement
in small cafés and restaurants – traditional garb consisting of a
in fact, dining in such humble loose robe opened at the chest
places can be preferable to Sweet cakes on sale in a market in Kairouan and covered with a large wrap.
eating in upmarket restaurants Sometimes a chechia is worn
or hotels as the food is likely to Hospitality with a Western suit. Often,
be more authentic. The food As a nation, Tunisians are family- traditional clothes are reserved
served in the big tourist hotels orientated and welcoming. It for religious ceremonies, and
is often more adapted to happens frequently that are more commonly worn by
European tastes, with a wider Tunisians will invite foreign persons associated with
menu and lighter use of spices. visitors to their homes or ask religious organizations.
Bread is served with meals free them to participate in their meal. Although many Tunisians
There is no need to be afraid to have adopted Western dress,
accept such an invitation, but try visitors should avoid short skirts,
to assess whether it is not purely shorts, anything transparent
a gesture of politeness. The first and clothes that leave the
expression of Tunisian hospitality shoulders or chest exposed.
is to offer the guest a glass of To help avoid unwanted
mint tea. Accepting tea in a attention, women should dress
shop does not oblige the modestly. In tourist zones
customer to purchase anything. visitors are freer to wear what
Offering tea is, of course, part they like, but if exploring the
of the sales technique, but it countryside be aware that
also arises out of Arab traditions exposure is frowned upon by
of hospitality. many Muslims.
Clothes Cafes
Many Tunisian women wear Traditional cafés are an impor-
European clothes, particularly in tant part of Tunisian life and are
cities; most also choose to wear frequented mainly by men, who
a headscarf. Typical office dress come to relax. They gather to
Berber woman in her doorway consists of a skirt and a jacket. watch TV, talk about sport and
politics, play cards and smoke Islamic holy book, the Koran.
their chichas (hookahs), which Islam plays an important part in
are generally smoked at noon, Tunisian’s cultural life. Prayers
in the afternoons and in the are said as soon as a baby is
evenings. Smoking a pipe is born and a few days later there
accompanied by strong tea is a ceremony which involves
served with fresh mint leaf. The shaving the baby’s head.
chicha is usually supplied free of Circumcision for boys is
charge, the men paying only for carried out at any time from
the tobacco. Mild mixtures of seven days after birth to the
tobacco with dried apples or mint age of eight or nine. Islamic
soaked in honey are available. If weddings popularly take place
the pipe goes out, a waiter will in the summer. The marriage
usually bring a few glowing ceremony is short but
lumps of charcoal to reignite it. celebrations are often lengthy.
While all-male cafés will serve When a Muslim dies a simple
foreign women, it is advisable ceremony is held in the mosque.
she finds another establisment The body of the deceased is
for refreshent, even if she is buried with the feet facing
accompanied by a man. towards Mecca.
Alongside these cafés, Tunisia Removing shoes before entering a mosque When visiting mosques,
has an increasing number of note that only the courtyard
European-style ones. These are Religion areas are open to tourists.
popular with Tunisian women Islam is the state religion of
and younger people. Tunisia, but sharia (Islamic) law
is not part of the state legis- Photography
lation. Muslims profess faith in There is no problem with
one God, Allah, and recognize a taking a camera to Tunisia.
number of holy scriptures Some people, however,
including the Torah and the may object to having their
Gospels. A number of biblical picture taken, so always ask
figures are common to for permission first. This applies
Christianity and Islam including especially to Tunisian women
Adam, Moses, Abraham and and when taking pictures of
Jesus. Mohammed is considered people in rural areas. Be aware,
the greatest of the Muslim too, that taking pictures
prophets in that he was the (inadvertently or not) of airfields,
final prophet to whom was military installations, police
revealed the direct word of God, stations or other government
which is written down in the buildings may lead to arrest.
Man smoking a hookah (chicha)
Alcohol and
Other Beverages
Although drinking is discour-
aged by Islam, the consumption
of alcohol is quite common in
Tunisia, but these drinks are
sold only in specially licensed
shops and bars. The latter
tend to be very much smoke-
filled, male refuges.
Many supermarkets sell
alcohol, though it may be
harder to purchase on Fridays. If
buying alcohol from a
supermarket be discreet and
carry it in a closed bag. Drinking
alcohol openly in the street is
likely to cause offence. Beer and
spirits are generally served only
in more expensive restaurants.
During Ramadan alcohol sales
cease everywhere. Men playing a game of cards in a traditional café
306 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Personal Property
Health and Security It is recommended that any
Most visitors to Tunisia will experience no serious valuables be stored in a safe or
problems with crime. The streets and hotels are discreetly locked securely in your suitcase,
patrolled by security guards and plain-clothes policemen. or at least kept out of sight.
Every hotel employs security
This high level of safety is due to untiring official vigilance, staff; the porter not only opens
especially in the tourist zones. Crimes against women, the doors, but also stops any
such as groping do happen, but are rare. Alcohol-fuelled stranger from entering the
crime is not uncommon, and measures against drink- premises. Beaches are patrolled
driving are limited, so be vigilant, especially at night around the clock to make sure
that no unauthorized persons
and weekends. The greatest danger is from the sun;
use this means to enter the
ignoring basic safety precautions may lead to severe hotel compound.
burns and sunstroke. A lost or stolen passport
should be reported to the Sûreté.
In markets, trams and other
The police are mainly on the crowded places be especially
lookout for smugglers, arms vigilant about pickpockets.
dealers and terrorists. In some of the larger resorts,
With tourists’ safety in mind, such as Sousse, Djerba and
police stations have been built Hammamet, it also pays to keep
in virtually every tourist zone. If personal property out of sight. In
a visitor is the victim of places such as the narrow,
a crime, they should request crowded alleys of the medinas
a police certificate (a copy of (old quarters) avoid carrying
the police report) in order to valuables in a handbag or
claim compensation from their backpack. It is better to keep
insurance company. wallets or purses under a shirt.
The safest method is to use an
inside pocket in a shirt or jacket
Travel and Terrorism that is fastened with a separate
Policemen talking to young people on the In light of the 2015 terrorist button or zip. Be aware, also,
street in Sfax attacks at the Bardo Museum when on the beach – sleeping
and a beach resort in Sousse, tourists can sometimes fall victim
Police along with ongoing unrest in to pickpockets or bag-snatchers.
When staying in Tunisia, even the region, visitors should obtain
on a brief visit, visitors soon up-to-date advice from their
become aware of the large ministry of foreign affairs before Health and Hygiene
numbers of police. The National travelling to the country. Tunisia is a country where rest-
Guard are responsible for Specifically, UK citizens should aurants maintain high standards
national security and its officers check with the Foreign and of hygiene. This applies not only
wear military khaki uniforms. Commonwealth Office, and US to the big hotel restaurants, but
The Sûreté, or state police, wear visitors should visit the US State every small café that offers a
light- and dark-blue uniforms Department’s website for advice. quick meal will have a
and mainly operate in the When leaving tourist zones, washbasin. Tunisians wash their
towns. Crimes and thefts should visitors are advised to book hands before and after eating.
be reported to the state police. with reputable tour operators, Food poisoning is rare.
Police personnel speak French, particularly when travelling Despite this, visitors may
but very few are likely to speak to the interior of the country. experience stomach problems a
much English. The National Any travel near the Libyan and few days after arriving in Tunisia.
Guard have responsibility for Algerian borders is strongly The usual symptoms are fever,
rural areas and the country’s advised against, along with shivering, general weakness,
borders. They may set up road visiting the Chaambi Mountain and diarrhoea. Usually this is not
blocks, stop cars, check National Park, where Tunisian a case of food poisoning, but
documents and the contents of Security Forces continue to the body’s reaction to the sun
the car. Tourist cars and coaches carry out security operations. and the different diet and
may be stopped. Visitors must Most demonstrations climate. This type of problem
then present their documents resulting from political and may be avoided by keeping out
and explain the purpose of their social unrest are not aimed of the sun and reducing the
journey. Although this may at foreigners. Visitors should, consumption of raw vegetables
seem excessive, it has to be however, be prepared and and salads, particularly during
remembered that Tunisia shares vigilant wherever they are the first few days of a visit. Prior
borders with Algeria and Libya. based within the country. to leaving home be sure to
may not be able to speak more

than a few words of English.
They will be able to offer simple
medical advice and prescribe a
wider range of drugs than are
available without prescription
in Europe. Most towns will have
a pharmacy that remains open
all night – a list of pharmacies
open round the clock is printed
in the French-language
Patrol car of the Gendarmerie newspapers such as La Presse
or Le Temps. The symbol for a
pharmacy in Tunisia is a serpent
on a green background.
Fire Brigade
If a fire breaks out within the
hotel compound, contact the
reception or call the number
of the fire brigade (Protection
Civile). The operator will speak
French, and only rarely English.
An ambulance from a hospital in Tunis The fire engines in Tunisia
are red.
provide yourself with remedies Medical Care The fire service is also called
for diarrhoea. The most Every hotel has a list of doctors out during heavy rainfall, to
important thing when suffering who will come at any time pump water out of flooded
from an upset of this kind is to of day or night when called cellars and apartments
replace the fluid that is lost. In by the reception. Medical and to unblock the main
the course of such an illness advice is not expensive in drainage systems.
drink plenty of bottled water. Tunisia; doctors charge
There are not many public about 25–30 TD for a visit. DIRECTORY
toilets in Tunisia, and most are Nevertheless, it is worth
to be found at petrol stations. taking out insurance. Emergency Numbers
In an emergency look for a Tunisian hospitals have well-
Police
restaurant or a hotel. It is worth trained medical staff and good-
Tel 197.
carrying a roll of toilet paper quality equipment; they also
for such an eventuality. have their own ambulances. Protection Civile (Fire)
The greatest health hazard in Dental services are also of a Tel 198.
Tunisia is the sun. In summer high standard. If there is a National Guard
always keep the head covered minor medical problem ask for Tel 193.
and avoid long exposure. advice in a pharmacy (see
Ambulance
Another danger is below). In more remote
Tel 190.
heatstroke, which is and sparsely populated
particularly likely in areas (particularly in SOS Ambulance
the desert, and in the southern Tunisia) Tel (71) 862 222.
mountain valleys. Among emergency treatment and Operator
the signs of heatstroke are transport are provided by Tel 1200 (can connect to any
disorientation, the police and army. emergency service in Tunisia).
headaches and a high Neon sign of a Many of the big tourist
Medical Help Allo Docteur
body temperature pharmacy in Tunis hotels have doctors
Tel (71) 780 000.
without the other and nurses on call
signs of fever. When out in the round the clock. Poisons Centre
sun, drink plenty of water. In Tel (71) 335 500.
larger towns the tap water is fit Pasteur Institute
for drinking. Pharmacies
Tel (71) 840 296.
During desert trips wear Tunisian pharmacies are clean,
ankle-length boots to protect well stocked and can be found Travel Advice
against scorpion bites. Also be in many small towns and some
aware that in older buildings in villages. Their staff are well ∑ gov.uk (in UK)
∑ state.gov (in US)
urban areas tarantulas may trained and likely to speak
appear after heavy rain. fluent French, although they
308 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking and Currency between) which change foreign

currencies into dinars.
The national currency is the Tunisian dinar (TD). The exchange Money can also be changed
rate is fixed on a daily basis and can be looked up online or in at some post offices. If venturing
the local paper. The TD cannot be traded, like the US dollar or away from the main tourist
areas, however, it can be
UK pound, and it is illegal to either import or export it, so harder to find facilities for
Tunisian currency cannot be purchased before arriving. All of exchanging money, especially
Tunisia’s larger towns, provincial capitals and tourist resorts in rural areas.
have banks, bureaux de change and ATMs, and most hotels It is illegal to take Tunisian
above three stars will also change currency. currency out of the country,
or to bring it in. Visitors who
have not used all their dinars
Exchanging Money by the time they are ready to
Banks and most large hotels leave may change back 30
in Tunisia can exchange the per cent of the total sum, but
main world currencies, not more than 100 TD, on
including sterling, euros presenting the original proof
and US dollars, into Tunisian of exchange. It is therefore
dinars (TD). The exchange worth changing only small
rate is determined on a daily sums of money at one time
basis by the Central Bank of and keeping all the exchange
Tunisia. Differences in the receipts, including the ones
exchange rate between issued by ATMs. Foreign
banks are negligible. Hotels currencies in excess of 500 TD
can give favourable rates, should be declared on arrival.
but even here, the difference Duty-free shops at the airports
is never very large. Many banks accept only foreign credit cards
charge a fee of about 3.5 TD for and currency.
exchanging foreign currency, Even luxury hotels that quote
so it is wise to carry out as their prices in euros or US
Cash dispensers can be found in large few transactions as possible. dollars on their websites or in
towns and tourist zones However, if you need more brochures can only accept cash
than 3,000 TD you will need payments in Tunisian dinars.
Banks to notify the bank in advance
The country’s main bank is the since most do not hold large
Central Bank of Tunisia – Banque quantities of cash.
Centrale de Tunisie. There are In addition to banks there
also a number of state-owned is also a network of bureaux
banks. The first private bank – de change, which are usually
Amen Bank – was established more convenient than a bank. Readily identifiable sign of an
in 1995. Branches of Tunisian They can be found in many ATM in Tunisia
banks can be found all over parts of the main towns and
the country. There are a number tourist zones and are often Credit Cards and ATMs
of foreign banks, which also open longer than banks. There Besides cash, most large
offer a full range of services. are a number of automatic shops, hotels and tourist-
Banks are usually open from exchange machines (though orientated restaurants will
8:30am to 4pm, Monday to these are still few and far accept payment by major
Thursday. In July and August, credit cards including Visa
they close earlier (12:30pm) and MasterCard. Some of the
but often open on Saturday. more upmarket restaurants
Opening times are shorter also accept Diners Club cards.
during Ramadan. In larger towns, Cards are not accepted at
during Ramadan the longest petrol stations, however.
opening hours are offered Credit cards are often required
by small branches of the Amen when checking in at some
Bank – some even stay open of the more upmarket hotels.
until 4pm. Banks remain ATMs can be found in tourist
closed during Muslim holidays resorts and they accept most
as well as during state and major cards. To ensure you
national holidays. In the are able to withdraw cash
tourist areas banks are often while you’re away, inform
open longer for visitors to Distinctive automatic currency your bank of your travel
exchange money. exchange machine plans prior to departure.
Currency are no longer issued by the Cash Dispensers

The Tunisian dinar is divided Central Bank, but they are still Cash dispensers (ATMs) can
into 1,000 millimes. Banknotes in circulation and it is worth be found on the main streets
are issued in denominations having some low denomination of big towns and in the larger
of 5, 10, 20 and 50 TD; the coins to hand, particularly when medinas. They are also in all
face values of coins are 1 TD, shopping in the medinas. the major holiday resorts.
2 TD and 5 TD, and 5, 10, 20, When leaving Tunisia Only those displaying the
50, 100, 200 and 500 (½ TD) remember that at airports sign of Visa, MasterCard,
millimes. Prices are sometimes dinars are accepted only up Cirrus or Maestro will dispense
quoted in millimes, which can to the border crossing point. money on cards issued by
be confusing – if a sign says In duty-free zones visitors foreign banks. Cash dispensers
1,800 it means 1 dinar, 800 must pay in convertible display instructions in Arabic,
millimes. Five-millime coins currencies. French and English.
Banknotes
Banknotes differ in colour and (slightly)
in size. They bear images of prominent
figures from Tunisia’s history, as well as
Arabic and French lettering.
10 dinars
20 dinars
50 dinars
5 dinars
1 dinar ½ dinar 100 millimes 50 millimes
Coins
Coins in circulation come in denominations
of ½, 1, 2 and 5 dinars, as well as 5, 10, 20,
50, 100 and 200 millimes. Coins from 10 to
100 millimes are golden in colour, and are
worth very little. Half-dinar and one-dinar
20 millimes 10 millimes 5 millimes coins are silver in colour.
310 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications and Media stay. These may be obtained

from Orange, Oreedoo or
Post offices in Tunisia offer the whole range of postal services Tunisie Telecom.
and can also be used to send a fax or make a telephone call.
More convenient, however, is the system of public phones, Internet
known as taxiphones, which can be found all over the country Internet access is widespread in
– these can be used to phone abroad. Foreign newspapers Tunisia, provided by the state-
and magazines are sold in Tunis, Tabarka and Bizerte, as well owned Publinet company. You
as tourist areas of the Sahel. The French-language version of will also find a growing network
La Presse, the national daily paper, is available everywhere. of private internet cafés in
towns and cities throughout the
country. In Tunis a popular
private internet café is located
almost every town and village. close to the railway station at
Identifiable by their yellow Rue de Grèce 4, near Place
signs, there are several booths Barcelone. Publinet branches,
and attendants who can supply as well as private internet cafés,
change. They can be used to are generally open from 8am
make a call (from a coin-operated until late into the evening.
phone) or to send a fax. One hour of internet access
Taxiphones are very popular costs approximately 1 TD, with
and have an extensive network. students sometimes offered a
Calls made from taxiphones are discount for frequent use. Most
much cheaper than ones made private internet cafés also
from hotels. Most Tunisian provide webcams for VOIP calls,
public telephones are coin- although their use may be
operated. Telephone calls are restricted to certain times.
cheaper between 8pm and 6am. Wi-Fi is widely available in
Making an international public hotel areas and cafés
call from Tunisia is also fairly throughout Tunisia.
straightforward, although it
The most frequently seen can be costly. To dial abroad
type of coin-operated from most public phones, first Radio and Tv
telephone dial the international code 00, Tunisia has four national TV
followed by the country code, channels: Tunis 7, Tunisie 21,
Telephone then the local code and finally Hannibal and Tunisie
Making a local call is fairly the number. The country code Television. All transmit in
straightforward in Tunisia as only to dial Tunisia from abroad is Tunisian dialect, and there are
the subscriber’s number need be 216. Mobile phones can be also some programmes in
dialled. When making a long- used in most of Tunisia apart French. There are a number of
distance call within the country, from the desert areas. Visitors entertaining local productions,
precede the number with 7, may need to notify their including game shows, soap
followed by the appropriate area provider before going abroad operas, cultural shows and
code, e.g. 1 for Tunis, 2 for Bizerte. in order to have their sporting programmes.
When calling a Tunis number international access switched It is also worth watching the
from Bizerte, for example, dial 71, on. Alternatively, simply frequent transmissions of
followed by the number. purchase a local SIM card to contemporary music concerts,
Telephone boxes can usually be use for the duration of your recorded at the Carthage
found near post offices. Some
shops have public phones
(identifiable by their blue signs).
Calls made from hotels are
expensive (this applies to both
telephones installed in guest
rooms and reception areas).
A telephone call made from
a post office is cheaper than
one made from a hotel, which
charges a higher rate for the
first three minutes. The most
practical solution is provided
by taxiphones. These are small
telephone exchanges found in Telephone booths inside a taxiphone exchange
Postal Services
in Tunisia
Tunisian post offices are easy
to recognize by their yellow
boards inscribed with the
letters PTT. Postboxes are
usually yellow too. There are
post offices in all sizeable
towns. Stamps can be bought
from them and letters, parcels
and telegrams can be sent
abroad. Overseas telephone
calls can also be made from
a Tunisian post office.
The Tunisian postal system
is reliable. Letters to Europe
take seven to 10 days, while
letters to the USA and Australia
take about two weeks.
Post offices also provide an
Post office in Monastir express mail delivery service
(Rapide Poste).
Festival of the Medina, for number of European stations Some hotels have a system
instance, or live studio are available, including Voice of whereby they collect their
performances of malouf (folk) America and the BBC’s World guests’ mail in decorative cages
music. These broadcasts Service, which can be picked situated in the reception areas.
provide good-quality Arab up at 15,070 and 12,095 MHz, Hotel staff then take them to
music, and also demonstrate or from 4–9am and 2–8pm at the post office. Stamps can be
how deeply such music is either 9,410, 6,195, 12,095 or obtained from newspaper
rooted in Tunisian culture. 15,485 kHz, depending on the kiosks and from the larger
Rai Uno and France 24 are time of day. souvenir shops. Stamps are also
two additional TV channels often available from taxiphone
that are received throughout offices. During the summer,
much of Tunisia. post offices are open Monday
The majority of homes in to Saturday, from 7:30am until
Tunisia have satellite dishes, 1pm. Throughout the rest of
which provide access to a Sign displaying post office logo the year they are open from
huge number of international 8am until noon, and again
channels. Tourist zone hotels The Press from 3 to 6pm. On Saturdays
normally offer a number of European magazines and post offices are only open
international TV channels via newspapers are readily available from 8am until noon. During
satellite. News channels in Tunis from large hotels and at Ramadan, post offices are open
generally include BBC, CNN, various newsagents throughout from 8am to 3pm, though
Euro News and Al-Jazeera (in the city centre. They usually these opening hours can be
Arabic). Eurosport is also arrive one day late. There are subject to change.
generally available in English. three French-language
You can see a sample of Tunisian newspapers published in Tunisia
TV before visiting on the (La Presse, Le Renouveau and Le
internet at www.tunisiatv.com. Temps) and one weekly English-
There are several radio language magazine, Tunisia
stations catering to foreign News. La Presse, in particular, is a
listeners. A French-language valuable source of information.
radio station (broadcasting on Its weekend edition has a large
about 98 FM) regularly transmits cultural section, which contains
in other European languages for the programmes of cinemas,
short periods: in English from shows and other current
2–3pm; in German from 3–4pm cultural events. Alongside these,
and in Italian from 4–5pm. Radio it also publishes reviews and
Tunis is a French-language announcements for all major
station that is good for music forthcoming attractions.
and is available at 93.1 FM. Le Temps puts more of an
Two of the best stations for inter- emphasis on international
national music are Shems FM events; La Presse is good for Bright-yellow postbox, as seen everywhere
and Mosaique. In addition, a coverage of sporting events. in Tunisia
312 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
The most convenient way of getting represent excellent value when compared
to Tunisia is by air; there are frequent with scheduled airfares. If planning to
scheduled services year-round from take a car, travelling by ferry from France
the UK, France and other European or Italy, book tickets well in advance as
countries. Tour operator services, often ferries can be busy, especially in summer.
using charter flights, and usually including Overland travel via Algeria or Libya is
accommodation and airport transfers, difficult, as visas for Algeria are only
are competitively priced and can available for residents of Tunisia.
Apart from Sousse and Port el-Kantaoui);

scheduled flights, and Djerba (9 km/6 miles from
a wide range of the island’s capital Houmt
charter flights Souk). All are able to handle
is offered by tour large numbers of flights and
Road sign to an airport operators direct passengers. Tunisia’s other
to Monastir from airports are at Sfax, 112 km
Air Travel London and selected UK (70 miles) south of Monastir;
Flights to Tunisia from the regional airports. These Tabarka, on the coast close to
United Kingdom take about include Luton, Birmingham, the border with Algeria; and
three hours. Tunisia’s national Manchester, Newcastle Tozeur, in Tunisia’s western
airline is Tunisair, which and Glasgow. desert region.
operates direct scheduled Prices vary according to
flights from London Heathrow season and are highest in July
to Tunis Carthage Airport and August. Short-notice
four times a week. Other spring and autumn bookings
European airlines, including can prove excellent value,
Air France, Lufthansa and and it is possible to save
Alitalia, also offer services money by booking online
to Tunisia. Alternatively, it is via an airline or one of the
possible to fly indirectly via discount travel websites. On
major European hubs, with all airlines weekend flights Sign for a taxi rank at one of
connections from several usually cost more. Tunisia’s airports
UK regional airports. Tunisair
has connecting flights from Travelling from
Tunis to Monastir, Sfax, International Airports the Airport
Djerba and Tozeur. There are Tunisia has a number of Tunis Carthage Airport is a
no direct services between international airports. The four short drive from the centre of
the Republic of Ireland and main ones are: Tunis Carthage Tunis. A taxi ride to Avenue
Tunisia, so it is best to travel Airport (6 km/4 miles from Habib Bourguiba should take
via London or Paris. Direct Tunis); Enfidha International about 15 minutes (depending
flights are available from Airport (at Herghla at the heart on the traffic) and cost not
North America, and there are of the coastal resorts); Monastir more than 5 TD. Taxis are
also flights from Australasia Habib Bourguiba Airport plentiful and the competition
via the UAE. (12 km/7 miles from Monastir, is fierce. An overpass between
Tunis and the airport has helped
ease traffic and shortened the
journey time. The price of a taxi
ride is likely to go up at night or
during the rush hour. Negotiate
the cost before getting into the
taxi. Alternatively, note that
the No. 35 bus for Tunis leaves
from the airport twice an hour.
It takes about 30 minutes and
terminates at Tunis Marine
station on Avenue Habib
Bourguiba. The bus also makes
drop-off stops at Avenue Habib
Thameur and Place Palestine. It
Tunisair aircraft at Tunis airport costs about 1 TD. Tunis airport
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 313
also has a direct bus link with July and the end of September DIRECTORY
Bizerte, Sousse and Monastir. there is a regular car ferry
Just a short walk from the air service from Marseille to Airlines
terminal is a train that connects La Goulette – Tunisia’s main Air France
Monastir’s airport to Monastir, passenger port. Two companies, Tel 0871 663 3777 (UK).
Mahdia and Sousse. From CTN and SNCM, handle most ∑ airfrance.com
Djerba’s airport take a taxi (about of the crossings. In July there
5 TD), although many hotels on is also a weekly service to Alitalia
Tel 0871 424 1424 (UK).
Djerba are happy to arrange Bizerte. Throughout the rest of
∑ alitalia.com
transport for their guests. the year there are two to three
services a week. The journey Lufthansa
from Marseille takes 24 hours. Tel 0371 945 9747 (UK).
It is also possible to sail to La ∑ lufthansa.com
Goulette from Italy. The ferries Tunisair
sail from Trápani (Sicily), and 24 Sackville St,
Road sign for La Goulette harbour also from Genoa, Naples and London, W1S 3DS.
La Spezia. The weekly service Tel (020) 7434 0537 (UK).
Tour Operators from La Spezia (100 km/ Tel (71) 837 000 (Tunis).
Over 60 tour operators offer 62 miles southeast of Genoa) ∑ tunisair.com.tn
packages to Tunisia from the to La Goulette is much
UK and Ireland; many are cheaper than sailing from Airports
specialists while others offer either Genoa or Naples. Tunis Carthage
only flight and beachside Tel (71) 754 000 or 755 000.
hotel packages. In addition
to hotel, apartment and self- Overland Travel Enfidha International
catering accommodation, tour Tunisian residents may travel Airport
Tel (73) 524 524.
operators can arrange car rental, to Tunisia overland, from
golf packages and private Algeria or Libya. Foreign Monastir Habib Bourguiba
transfers. Holiday durations can travellers will probably find this Tel (73) 521 300.
vary from weekend breaks to difficult due to visa restrictions.
month-long vacations. Special- There is a daily bus service UK and Ireland
interest holidays range from from Tripoli to Tunis that should Tour Operators
golf, hiking, deep-sea diving take about 16 hours; however, First Choice Holidays
and desert adventures on a civil unrest in North Africa has Tel (020) 3451 2720.
camel to archaeology, led to strict border controls that ∑ firstchoice.co.uk
gastronomy and thalassotherapy. make the journey even longer.
Sunway Holidays
For those interested in a A daily bus service from Tripoli
Tel (00353) 231 1800.
particular activity, booking to Sfax takes about 10 hours.
∑ sunway.ie
through a specialist operator There is also a louage (shared
can work out cheaper than taxi) that runs from Annaba in Thomson Holidays
organizing something once in Algeria to Tunis’s medina. Tel (020) 3451 2688.
the country. The Tunisian Tourist Although people do travel ∑ thomson.co.uk
Office in London can provide a to Tunisia via Libya or Algeria,
comprehensive list of tour the border regions of these
Ferry Companies
operators (see p251). two countries can be Compagnie Tunisienne
dangerous. Furthermore, de Navigation (CTN)
since the outbreak of the Rue Dag Hammarskjöld 5, Tunis.
Ferries civil war in 1993 Algeria Tel (71) 341 777.
Another way of getting to has been practically out of Fax (71) 345 736.
Tunisia is by ferry. Between bounds to tourists. ∑ ctn.com.tn
SNCM
Tel (+33) 0891 701 801,
(+33) 825 888 088.
∑ sncm.fr
Tirrenia Navigazione
Tel (+39) 022 630 2803.
∑ tirrenia.it
A small ferry sailing to Djerba

314 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling Around Tunisia

Tunisia has a well-developed road network. Air-conditioned
buses provide transport links between most major towns.
A more convenient way of travelling is by louage (shared taxi).
These travel between many of the small towns and villages
and operate more frequently than buses. On shorter routes
to villages, visitors will need to take a taxi (only yellow ones).
Much of the rail network (SNCFT) is devoted to freight. The
passenger trains that do run, however, are comfortable and
Train crossing the main square in Sousse
punctual. The main routes run south from Tunis to Sfax and
Gabès. Tunisia has a number of internal flights, run by padded seats. Long-distance
Sevenair. The most popular routes are those that connect trains usually have an additional
Tunis with the south of the country. Grand Confort class. This is more
expensive than first class and
offers travellers slightly more
Travelling by Train exclusive compartments.
The Société Nationale des Long-distance trains usually
Chemins de Fer Tunisiens (SNCFT) include a restaurant car, where
has over 2,000 km (1,250 miles) a hot meal, sandwiches and
of track, and was built by the drinks are available. When
French during the colonial planning several train journeys,
period. The main routes run consider buying the Blue Card
from Tunis: north to Bizerte that gives unlimited travel
(about 2 hours); west towards within the country. These
the Algerian border (about are valid for one, two or three
6 hours); southwest to the Tell weeks and can represent
region (about 6 hours), and Sfax railway station good value. The card is valid
south to Sfax and Gabès, via on all local and long-distance
Hammamet and Sousse. The about 400 millimes. Metro Sahel journeys on SNCFT trains. Costs
most popular line is the one is another convenient service are: one week – 30 TD (second
that links Tunis with Sfax and and runs between Sousse, class), 42 TD (first class); two
Gabès (via Sousse). There are Monastir and Mahdia. weeks – 60 TD (second class),
six trains a day to Sfax and three A local service, called the 84 TD (first class); three weeks –
to Gabès. The journey time is TGM, runs from Tunis to many of 90 TD (second class), 120 TD
5 hours and costs about 14 TD. its suburbs including Carthage, (first class). The Blue Card is sold
One train a day runs to Metlaoui La Goulette and Sidi Bou Saïd. at all main stations, plus some
and Gafsa. About eight services Most Tunisian trains have large hotels and travel agencies.
a day run to Sousse; the journey two classes. First class is about Timetable details are
takes 2 hours and the ticket 40 per cent more expensive available in the daily press,
costs about 6 TD. A journey to than second class and is air- although it is always best to
Hammamet takes one hour and conditioned. Second class is check at the station in advance.
costs about 4 TD. usually very crowded and in It is essential to reserve a
There is a narrow-gauge order to be sure of a seat it is seat on mainline trains at
train that runs between Nabeul best to board the train at the holiday periods otherwise
and Hammamet and stops first stop. Even the suburban passengers may end up
in several places within the trains include first-class standing. There may be a small
tourist zone. A ticket from carriages, which are generally charge for making reservations
Hammamet to Nabeul costs less crowded and have soft, in first class.
Sousse bus station

DIRECTORY
Railway Stations
Bizerte
Avenue Habib Bourguiba.
Central Phone Line
Tel (71) 345 511 or
254 440.
Monastir
Nabeul
An “Intercity” bus run by the SNTRI company Sousse

Blvd. Hassouna Ayach.
Buses Air Travel Tunis
The Société Nationale de There are airports in Tunis, Place Barcelone, SNCFT 67
Transport Rural et Interurbain Enfida, Monastir, Sfax, Tozeur, Avenue Farhat Hachet.
(SNTRI) is the state-owned bus Gabès, Gafsa, Tabarka and Tel (71) 334 444.
company, and runs services Djerba. The most popular routes ∑ sncft.com.tn
between most of Tunisia’s are between Tunis and Djerba
towns. Services to the smaller (several flights a day), Tunis and Bus Stations
towns run once a day. There Sfax, and Tunis and Tozeur. In the Tunis
are about 10 daily services from summer there are also flights to
Tunis to Sousse, Hammamet Gabès and Gafsa. A one-way North Bus Station
and Sfax. The price of a bus ticket costs about 50 TD. There is Bab Saadoun
Rue Nord de
ticket is comparable to a also an air-taxi service, Tunisavia.
Bab Saadoun.
second-class train ticket. In This is often used by VIPs and
the summer, due to the hot businessmen and lands not only South Bus Station
weather, long-distance buses at the major airports, but also at Bab Alleoua
sometimes travel at night. Buses a number of small regional ones. Rue Sud de
are more comfortable than Bab el-Fellah.
louages and offer plenty of
space for passengers and their Louages
luggage. They are also Shared nine-seater minibuses with blue stripes are permitted
air-conditioned. In addition to are a popular form of transport to travel only on local routes.
SNTRI, there are also a number in Tunisia. Louages do not run Tunis has four main louage
of suburban carriers, serving to any particular schedule and stops. Louages from Bab Saadoun
various local villages and small depart only when they have a go to Bizerte, Menzel and other
towns. There are quite a number full complement of passengers destinations; from the square in
of these smaller companies (in practice, one need never wait front of the south station (Bab
and it can be difficult to obtain long). Though less comfortable Alleoua), to Cap Bon; and from
information about their than buses, they are more con- the stop at the east end of Rue
schedules. Quite often one venient. The price of a ride is only Aid el-Jebbari, they travel south.
town is served by a number slightly higher than that of a bus From Place Sidi Bou Mendil
of carriers and the staff of one ticket. Louage stops are usually yellow Algerian taxis marked
will not always know about the near bus and railway stations. with a white stripe go to Algeria.
timetable of another carrier, There are two types of louage – Louages with a yellow stripe are
even if they operate from the those with a red stripe can Libyan and those with a red
same bus station. travel all over Tunisia; the ones stripe Tunisian.
Tunis has two main bus
stations. Bab Saadoun serves
the north of the country and
is at the bottom of Rue Sidi
el-Bechir and Avenue 9 Avril.
Bab Alleoua, sometimes also
referred to as Bab el-Fellah,
connects Tunis to the centre
and south of the country and is
just south of Place Barcelone.
A transport link between the
two stations is provided by the
Nos. 50, 72 and 74 buses. Louage with a red stripe, licensed to travel anywhere in the country
316 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Travelling by Car in Tunisia

Tunisia’s road network is excellent, with clear signs and well-
maintained surfaces for most of the country. The traffic
regulations are almost the same as in Europe. The standard of
driving is not always satisfactory, however, so you will need to
be vigilant. There are numerous police patrols on the roads,
and the introduction of radar surveillance has helped to
reduce speeds. Generally, the police do not stop tourists, but
visitors should still carry their passports and driving licence
with them. Hiring a rental car is an excellent way of exploring
Tunisia, though it can be expensive. Winding narrow roads around Toujane
heavy fines ensure that straight. There are three motor-

Tunisians rarely exceed speed ways: from Tunis to Sfax, from
limits, although drink-driving is Tunis to Bizerte and from Tunis
not uncommon. Many inter-city to Beja. A-roads are known as
roads are patrolled by radar Routes Nationales (RN), and
detectors and highway patrol B-roads are referred to as Routes
cars. The other main hazards Regionales (RR). Surface damage
on the roads come from on RN roads is rare. Even on
straying animals, motorcycles the RR roads, potholes are few
and pedestrians. and far between. Outside the
summer season, however, some
of the roads may become
Road Signs impassable due to rainfall.
In addition to the commonly Roads in the south are not so
seen road signs, there are good, but are still passable.
A frequently seen sign in Tunisia – warning signs with a picture of Driving on desert roads
Warning! Camels! a camel, which are seen mostly requires a four-wheel-drive
in the south where vehicle. When driving in
Highway Code camels may stray on to the desert, always
Tunisia’s highway code does not roads. Take heed, travel in a group
differ significantly from that of too, of the signs of at least two cars
mainland Europe. Vehicles drive warning about the (to assist each
on the right, and overtake on danger of wet other in case of
the left. The road signs are clear surfaces during or breakdown). Also
and mostly bilingual (French after a period of bear in mind that
and Arabic). The speed limit is heavy rainfall. desert roads can
90 km/h (55 mph) on open Signs may be few Warning sign – Stop! suddenly disappear
roads, 50 km/h (30 mph) in and far between if they get buried in
towns and built-up areas. The on minor roads. the sand. When this happens
speed limit on motorways is it can be difficult to see in
110 km/h (70 mph). Seatbelts which direction to drive. Because
are supposed to be worn at all Roads of the dangers, trips to the
times in Tunisia. Frequent Most of the country’s roads are desert are best undertaken
patrols, speed cameras and well surfaced and reasonably with a Tunisian driver who
knows the area.
Town Driving
Although Tunisian drivers are
generally careful, pay particular
attention to motorcycles and
pedestrians when driving in
towns. This is especially true
during the rush hours, between
5 and 8pm and at night.
Pedestrians can be discon-
certing in towns, giving the
impression that they have not
The crowded centre of Sousse seen oncoming vehicles. Drivers
should use their horn if in doubt DIRECTORY

as to whether other road users
are aware of their presence. The Car Rental
situation can be worse when DJERBA
there is heavy rainfall. At these Avis
times it can be better to resort Route Touristique.
to walking instead. Tel (75) 673 439.
Airport. Tel (75) 650 233.
Information on parking in the centre ∑ avis.com.tn
Maps of Tunis MONASTIR
Road maps can be purchased Essalama Location Voiture
from hotel shops and bookstores. Car Rental
Monastir Airport. Tel (23) 424 000.
Generally, however, the maps Car hire firms are in all of the
published by the ONTT (Tunisian major towns and tourist resorts. SOUSSE
Europcar
Tourist Bureau) are clear and, for Their services are rather
Hotel Mövenpick, Av. du
the most part, accurate, and they expensive, but hiring a car 14 Janvier. Tel (71) 940 752.
include additional information in enables you to visit many inter-
English and French relating to esting and less accessible parts TUNIS
historic sites. The range of the country. Budget
published by the ONTT includes There should be no problem 17 Rue Kheireddine Pacha,
Monplaisir. Tel (71) 783 855.
maps of Carthage and Tunis’s with finding a major rental firm;
medina. The ONTT offices can Avis, Azur, Europcar and Hertz Hertz
also provide street maps of a all have offices in Tunis and Tel (70) 837 722 (Charguia).
number of the other most elsewhere. The best option, Tel (71) 754 000 (Airport).
popular towns. If travelling by however, is provided by local Sixt
car around Tunisia, purchase a firms – these are cheaper and Tunis Carthage Airport.
more detailed road map before are often more willing to strike Tel (70) 729 292.
leaving home. Michelin a deal. Prices start from about ∑ sixt.com
produces a good one (No. 956), 50 TD per day for a small car, Tunis Cars
as do Freytag and Berndt. Both plus 250 millimes for each Tel (71) 842 670 (Airport).
are on a scale of 1:800,000 kilometre travelled. Though it
and provide information on may mean having to pay a
Tunisia’s major and minor roads. higher daily rate, it can work out
far cheaper to hire a car from a required to complete such a
company that does not charge report. Visitors who do not fill
Buying Petrol extra for the distance travelled, out the form may be liable for
The price of fuel in Tunisia is especially if intending to use the the costs, even if the accident
cheap by European standards – car for long journeys. was not their fault. You should
though prices do fluctuate. One Rental companies will require also ensure that you have the
litre of regular unleaded petrol that the driver be over 21 years vehicle’s tax document and
costs approximately 1,400 old and hold a licence that has certificate of roadworthiness.
millimes and is available through- been valid for at least a year.
out Tunisia; diesel costs around When hiring a car, be sure
1,200 millimes a litre. Generally, to check that the vehicle Breakdowns and
there are no problems with find- documents include an accident Accidents
ing somewhere to fill up, even report form. In case of an Tunisia has no roadside
on Sunday or at night. accident both parties are telephones or road emergency
services. In case of a breakdown
ask another driver for a tow to
the nearest town or village
where a garage can repair the
car. Alternatively, it may be
necessary to wait for a passing
police patrol. Repair services
are cheap in Tunisia, but parts
can be expensive. Make sure
your vehicle has a spare tyre.
In the case of a serious
accident, such as one involving
injury to a pedestrian, contact
the police. Note that you may
be detained and should contact
your embassy in Tunis as soon
Libyan petrol on sale in southern Tunisia as possible.
318 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting Around Tunis Bus No. 3 begins at Tunis Marine

and runs to the Bardo Museum.
Transport within Tunis includes a variety of options. The Transport to the airport is by
furthest corners of the city should be accessible without the No. 35 bus, which also leaves
any problem, if not by public transport, then by taking a from the Tunis Marine stop.
Tickets are fairly cheap.
taxi, which is cheap by European standards. Tunis’s medina costing about 380 millimes
is partly pedestrianized and can easily be explored on foot. and are purchased on the bus.
Travelling to seaside resorts close to the capital is also quite Alternatively, a book of tickets
easy. The best way of getting to them is by using the fast is available from Tunis Marine
TGM train that stops near the town centre. bus station.
Line No. 3 runs from Place Taxis

Barcelone, via Place de la Tunis’s yellow taxis are a cheap
République, to Ibn Khaldoun. and efficient means of getting
Line No. 4 starts by Tunis about. Many locals use them
Marine and runs westwards, and it can sometimes be hard
through Place de la République. to find a free cab for this reason.
This line is particularly convenient All taxis are fitted with meters.
for the Bardo Museum (Bardo) In general, the drivers stick to
and the north station – Saadoun; the meter, apart from journeys
alight at Bouchoucha. to the airport that start from
Line No. 5 is an extension of bus stations or the railway
line No. 3, and runs from Ibn station. A trip from the town
Khaldoun to El-Intilaka. centre to the airport will cost
about 5 TD; a taxi to the Bardo
Museum will cost about 3 TD.
A tram – one of the best means of getting Buses At night (from 9pm–5am) the
about in Tunis Although Tunis’s buses are prices can be slightly more.
modern and in better condition Always check that the meter
Trams than those in other major towns has been activated, though it is
Trams are probably the of the country, travelling by them rare that a taxi driver will
most convenient way of moving is not a particularly pleasurable attempt to swindle his customer.
around Tunis. This network, experience, particularly since Taxis can be hailed from the
known as métro leger, runs down they are often even more side of the road, just as they
the middle of the street and has crowded than the trams. can in other major cities. It is
green paintwork with distinctive The bus number and the worth paying attention to the
white and blue stripes. The city’s direction in which it is heading condition of the car, however.
trams are efficient and not are usually written in Arabic Most of Tunis’s taxis are old and
particularly expensive, though and placed at the rear of the may appear rather dilapidated.
they can be crowded, especially bus by the entry door. The Latin However, they must be well
at peak times. alphabet is used only on those enough maintained to pass
Five main lines run to various buses serving the most popular their annual diagnostics test.
parts of Tunis. All except No. 5 tourist destinations, such as the Consider holding out for a
pass through the centre. Since Bardo Museum or the airport. newer model if travelling a
many streets in central Tunis are On these buses the Latin bit further – to Sidi Bou Saïd
one-way, the tram often returns number is displayed at the front. or Carthage, for instance.
by a different route (usually There are three main stops in “Collective Urban Taxis” (called
along a parallel street). Tickets Tunis. These are Tunis Marine, blublassers) are now found on
must be purchased before situated close to the TGM train the streets of Tunis. They are
boarding the tram and are stop at the end of Avenue yellow with a distinctive blue
available from the kiosks at the Habib Bourguiba; the stop at stripe. Popular with locals, they
entrance to each station. The Place Barcelone near the railway may also be used by visitors.
standard fare is 380 millimes. station and the stop in
Line No. 1 runs from Tunis, Jardin Thameur, near
Marine via Place Barcelone, to the Passage.
Bab Alleoua, at the south end
of the town. Bab Alleoua is
the best stop for the southern
bus station.
Line No. 2 runs from
Place de la République and
heads north towards Ariana. A typical Tunisian yellow taxi
SUR VIVAL GUIDE 319
traffic. A stroll around the at archaeological sites, such as

medina can be a real pleasure Dougga or Bulla Regis, can be
and enables visitors to soak up particularly useful if the details
the ancient atmosphere at a of the site and its history are of
leisurely pace. In parts of the particular interest.
medina where the streets are
relatively wide, visitors should
be on the alert for scooters or TGM Trains
delivery vans, which can arrive An excellent way of exploring
at speed. Tunis’s Ville Nouvelle Tunis’s environs and the coast
is also suitable for exploring on of Carthage is by taking the
foot. The only problem with this TGM train that links the centre
area is the heat in summer. of Tunis with Carthage, Sidi
To avoid heat exhaustion, walk Bou Saïd and the main beaches.
on the shady side of the street The train leaves from the end
and carry a bottle of mineral of Avenue Bourguiba (Tunis
water. Anyone who feels tired Marine station). The journey to
A sign prohibiting entry to a mosque should sit down in a café and the final station (La Marsa) takes
for non-Muslims have a drink. about 35 minutes. The first
Outside Tunis, there is no station after crossing the
Driving sense in walking the large causeway is Le Bac. Confusingly,
Driving in Tunis is not a good distances that separate many Aeroport, the sixth stop, has
idea. Unless there is no of the towns from the tourist nothing to do with the airport
alternative, don’t even consider zones, unless it is to walk along as TGM trains do not run there.
it. Despite being wide, all the seashore. Salammbô has a nice beach,
the main streets of town get while Carthage Byrsa
congested. Tunis’s drivers show is the main stop for
little respect for marked traffic Carthage’s Museum
lanes and it often happens that and Byrsa Hill. Sidi
a three-lane road suddenly Bou Saïd (see pp100–
becomes an impromptu five- 101) is an excellent
lane one. Police help or under- stopping-off point,
standing cannot be counted on “Pay Here” sign for a public car park as is La Marsa, which
either. Policemen only try to has the best beach in
ease the traffic flow at the most Guides the vicinity of Tunis.
congested junctions. If stuck The quality of service provided The ticket costs about 600–
in traffic, pay particular attention by Tunisian guides varies 800 millimes. Many people opt
to motorcyclists and pedestrians, tremendously. When somebody for the first-class ticket, which is
both of whom often weave in offers to act as a guide for only slightly more expensive.
and out of the stationary cars free, it is practically certain that The first train on a weekday
with little apparent concern for the person works for a carpet leaves before 4am, and the last
their own safety. shop or a store selling some runs about half past midnight
Although Tunis’s drivers other kind of merchandise. (slightly later at weekends). The
undoubtedly break many The trip will therefore end departure times of the last trains
regulations, it is very rare for very quickly in one of the should, however, be checked at
them to break the speed limit. medina’s markets. However, the station – in Tunis, Sidi Bou
If attempting to drive in town, employing guides who work Saïd or La Marsa.
remember that many streets
are one-way, and getting to
a destination may not be as
simple as it appears from the
map. There may also be serious
problems when parking. Pay
close attention to the paid
parking zones, as there are
severe fines for not paying
the required amount.
Walking
The centre of Tunis, like most
towns in Tunisia, is fairly compact.
At its heart is the medina,
much of which is closed to Station on the suburban TGM line
320 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer Aïn Draham 133 Amphitheatres (cont.)
to main entries hotels 254–5 Makthar 228
hunting 297 Sbeïtla 223
A
restaurants 271 Amusement parks 292, 293
Abdallia Palace (La Marsa) Aïn el-Atrous 112–13 Acqua Palace (Port
98 Aïn Senam 225 el-Kantaoui) 152, 292
Abdellatif Mosque (Testour) Air conditioning Dar Cheraït (Tozeur) 212,
135 in hotels 248 292
Abou Nawas hotel chain in shops 283 Hannibal Park (Port
249 Air France 312, 313 el-Kantaoui) 152
Abu Abdullah 57 Air travel Park Friguia (Bou Ficha)
Abu Am Othmar 122 domestic 315 157, 292
Abu el-Kacem el-Chabbi 20 international 312–13 Planet Oasis (Tozeur) 212,
Abu Ibrahim Ahmed 240 Airlines 312, 313 292
Accommodation see Hotels Airports 312, 313 Andalusia 135, 145, 235
Acqua Palace (Port Aissaouia 230 Antiques 284–5
el-Kantaoui) 152, 292 Ajim 180, 185 Antonine Baths (Carthage)
Acropolium de Byrsa Al-Afghani, Jemeladdin 60 12, 14, 28, 107
(Carthage) 106 Al-Aghlab, Ibrahim ibn 56 Antoninus Pius 232
L’Action Tunisienne 61 Al-Ghazali 77 Aousja 147
Activities for visitors 296–9 Alcohol 305 Aquariums, Oceanographic
see also Birdwatching; Islam and 124 Museum (Carthage) 110
Spas; Special interest in restaurants 260 Aqueducts
holidays; Sport what to drink 264, 265 Kairouan 240, 244
Ad Decinum, Battle of 53 Ali ben Salem 21 Mohammedia 112
Aeneas 110 Ali Bey 59 Zaghouan 235
Aeneid (Virgil) 110 Ali el-Mezeri mosque Arab Horse Festival
(Monastir) 158 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 44
Africa Nova 228
Ali Pasha 59, 76 Arab invasions 49, 56
Africa Proconsularis 52
Ali Pasha II 82 Arab Music Festival
Afrika Korps 62, 221
Ali Turki mausoleum (Hammamet) 124, 291
Agathocles 110, 115
(Le Kef ) 230 Arab nationalism 60
Aghir 186
Alitalia 312, 313 Arab rule 56–7
Aghlabid Basins (Kairouan)
Alloucha carpets 40, 288 Arab towns, layout
240
Almohad dynasty 57 174–5
Aghlabid dynasty Almoravid dynasty 57 Arabic calligraphy
ceramics 118 Alphabet, Phoenician 111 171, 284
power passes to 56–7 Altars, Phoenician 111 Archaeology 49
Sousse under 154, 156 Amar Kamoun Mosque Archaeological Museum
Tunis under 69 (Sfax) 169 (Sfax) 170
Agriculture 24 Amateur Theatre Festival Archaeology Museum
Berber 37 (Korba) 44 (Nabeul) 116–17
Cap Bon 114 Amber 285 Archaeology Museum
Ahmed Bey 81, 112 Amphitheatres (Sousse) 156
Aïd el-Adha 21, 43, 46 Bulla Regis 137 excavation site (Makthar)
Aïd el-Fitr 21, 43 Carthage 12, 14, 107, 291 228
Les Aiguilles (Tabarka) 128, El-Djem 10, 15, 52, 149, site museum (Chimtou)
130 167, 290, 291 134
GENERAL INDEX 321
Architecture 21, 28–31 The Arts 21–2 Bab el-Khoukha (Kairouan)

Berber 28 Aruj 58 238
colonial 29 As-Sanusi, Mohammed Bab Tunis (Kairouan) 238
Dar Jellouli Museum 61 Babouche 133
(Sfax) 172–3 Association de Sauvegarde Babouche slippers 41
Islamic 30–31 de la Médina (Sfax) 169 Bachia Medersa (Tunis) 76
the ksar 200–201 Aterians 49 Backgammon 286
menzels 185 Athletics 295 Baklava 263
modern 29 Atlas mountains 27, 217 Balneotherapy 235
mosques 30 ATMs 308, 309 Banks 308
Museum of Traditional Au Palais d’Orient (Tunis) Barbarossa 39, 58, 85
Architecture (Sfax) 170 76, 81 Barbary pirates 58
Punic 28, 114 Auberges de jeunesse 250 Bardo Museum (Tunis) 12,
Roman 29 Augustine, St 54 14, 67, 92–3
a traditional Arab town Autumn 45 mosaics 54–5, 70, 88–9,
174–5 Avenue 7 Novembre 93, 112
Tunisian doors 97, 125 (Kairouan) 238 shop 282
Archways Avenue Habib Bourguiba Bardo, Treaty of 59
Arch of Antoninus Pius (Hammamet) 123 Basilicas 54–5
(Sbeïtla) 223 Avenue Habib Bourguiba see also Churches
Arch of Septimius Severus (Houmt Souk) 182 Basketball 295
(Haïdra) 224–5 Avenue Habib Bourguiba Basketwork 41
Trajan’s Arch (Makthar) 228 (Nabeul) 116 Baths
Triumphal Arch Avenue Habib Bourguiba
Aghlabid baths
(Kasserine) 224 (Sfax) 169, 170
(Reqqada) 244
Triumphal Arch Avenue Habib Bourguiba
Antonine Baths
(Zaghouan) 235 (Tunis) 12, 14, 87, 90
(Carthage) 12, 14, 28, 107
Arku 186 Avenue Habib Thameur
Great Baths (Makthar) 228
Art, Islamic (Nabeul) 116
Great Baths (Sbeïtla) 223
architecture 30–31 Avenue Hedi Chaker (Sfax)
design 32–3 The Hammam 177
169, 170
Islamic Art Centre (Ribat, Hammam (Korbous) 112
Monastir) 160 B Hammam Sultan
Lalla Hadria Museum of Baal Hammon 117, 124 (Sfax) 170
Islamic Art (Midoun) 186 Numidian temple Lycinian Baths (Dougga)
National Museum of (Chimtou) 134 233
Islamic Art (Reqqada) 244 Temple (Thuburbo Majus) Memmian Baths
Art Deco 29, 87 234 (Bulla Regia) 137
Art festivals 44 Tophet (Carthage) 110 North Baths (Makthar)
Art galleries see Museums Tophet (Makthar) 228 228
and galleries Bab 31 Roman Baths (Le Kef ) 230
Art Nouveau 29, 87 Bab Diwan (Sfax) 31, 168 Roman Baths (Utique) 146
Hôtel Majestic (Tunis) 86 Bab Djedid (Kairouan) 238, Roman Pools (Gafsa) 220
Théâtre Municipal (Tunis) 241 Summer Baths
86 Bab ech-Chouhada (Thuburbo Majus) 234
Artisanat see Office (Kairouan) 238 Winter Baths
National de l’Artisanat Bab el-Aïn (Makthar) 228 (Thuburbo Majus) 234
Artists, in Sidi Bou Saïd 102 Bab el-Bahr (Tunis) 81 Bazaars see Souks
322 GENERAL INDEX
Beaches 27 Beys, hereditary 58–9 Bourguiba, Habib (cont.)

around Tunis 99 Bicycle hire 297 Bourguiba Mosque
Cap Serrat 138 Bir Barouta (Kairouan) 15, (Monastir) 30, 158, 159
Djerba 191 238–9 Hammam Bourguiba 132
Hammamet 123, 124 Bir Bou Regba 124 imprisoned 176
Kebilia 115 Birdcages 101 independence
Kerkennah Islands 176 Birds, Tunisian 139, 140–41 movement 42, 61–3
Northern Tunisia 147 Birdwatching Mausoleum (Monastir)
The Sahel 153 Gulf of Gabès 176 158
Sidi Mechrig 138 Jebel Zaghouan 235 monument (Sfax) 169
Tabarka 130 Kebilia 115 and position of
Zarzis 188–9, 190 Lake Ichkeul 139, 140–41 women 23
Beauvoir, Simone de 100 see also National parks; schoolboy statue
Bechri 211, 212 Nature reserves (Monastir) 159
Bedouin tribes 202, 205 Birth rate 20 Bouzguend, Taieb 159
Beer 265 Bizerte 14, 127, 142–3, Brass products 40
Béja 127, 135 144–5 Bread 261
Wheat Festival 45 Festival d’Evacuation de Bedouin 202
Belisarius 53 Bizerte 45 Breakdowns and accidents
Bellator Basilica hotels 255 317
(Sbeïtla) 223 International Festival 44 Brik à l’oeuf 260, 262
Belly dancing Jasmin Road 44 British First Army 221
in hotels 251 restaurants 271–2 Bulla Regia 10, 14, 127, 129,
M’Rabet Café (Tunis) 290 World War II 62 132, 136–7
Belvedere Park (Tunis) 91 Blidet 161, 211 Bureaux de change 308
Ben Abdallah 82 Blue doors 100 Buses 315
Ben Ali, Zine el-Abidine Boat charter 299 airport 312–13
22–3, 63, 90, 144 Bordier, Captain 228 Tunis 318
Ben Guerdane 190, 192 Borj Bourguiba 199 Byrsa Hill (Carthage) 12, 14,
Beni Metir 132 Borj el-Hissar (Chergui 106–7
Berbers 36–7, 198 Island) 176 Byzantium 53
abandoned village Borj el-Kebir (Houmt Souk) C
(Midès) 215 13, 182, 183 Caesar, Julius 116, 158
architecture 28, 37 Borj el-Kebir (Mahdia) 166 Caesar Augustus, Emperor
Festival of Ksour Borj Ennar (Sfax) 169 107, 117
(Ksar Ouled Soltane) 45 Borj Jillij 185 Cafés 304–5
Festival of the Mountain Botanical garden (Tozeur) Café des Nattes
Oases 42 13, 15, 212 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 100
language 303 Bou Ficha 157 Café Ez-Zitouna (Tunis) 81
origins 49 Bou Grara 192 Café Le Pasha (Bizerte)
pottery 40, 138 Gulf of 192–3 145
tattoos 225 Bou Hedma National Park Café M’Rabet (Tunis) 76,
under Byzantine rule 53 231 267, 290
under Roman rule 52 Bouazizi, Mohammed 23, 63 Café Saf-Saf (La Marsa) 98
see also Ksour; Ksour Boukha 265 Café Sidi Chabaane
festivals Boukornine National Park (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101
Berlin Congress 59 231, 297 opening hours 261
Bertolucci, Bernardo 204 Bourguiba, Habib 22, 158 see also Food and drink;
Bey, Mohammed 230, 240 Borj Bourguiba 199 Restaurants
GENERAL INDEX 323
Calligraphy, Arabic 171, Casinos 291, 293 Cemeteries (cont.)

284 Castles and fortifications Phoenician 111
Dar Jellouli Museum arsenal (La Goulette) 103 Sidi el-Mezeri
(Sfax) 173 Borj el-Kebir (Houmt (Monastir) 158
Camels 207 Souk) 13, 182, 183 see also Marabouts;
Bir Barouta (Kairouan) Borj el-Kebir (Mahdia) 166 Necropolis; Tombs and
238–9 Borj Ennar (Sfax) 169 mausoleums; Zaouias
caravans 203 Borj Jillij (Djerba) 185 Censorship 62
treks 42, 67, 297 Byzantine fort Bulla Regis Central Tunisia 216–45
Camp Sites 250 136 character 217
Cap Blanc 145, 146 Byzantine fortress climate 47, 217
Cap Bon 114 Jugurtha’s Table 225 getting there 219
Cap Bon peninsula 95–7, defensive walls and hotels 259
112–24 towers 174–5 map 218–19
climate 47 Fort Sidi el-Hanni restaurants 279–81
getting there 97 (Bizerte) 145 sights at a glance 218
hotels 253–4 Genoese fort Centre d’Animation
map 96–7 (Tabarka) 58, 130 Équestre (Tunis) 91
restaurants 268–71 Haïdra 225 Centre of Arab and
sights at a glance 97 kasbah forts (Le Kef ) 230 Mediterranean Music (Sidi
Cap Negro 138 Kasserine 224 Bou Saïd) 100, 101, 290
Cap Serrat 138 Kebilia 115 Ceramics 21, 40
Cap Zarzis 193 Ksar Lemsa 244 Berber 36, 138
Cap Zbib, restaurants 272 Osta Murad Dey fortress Nabeul 116, 118–19
Capellianus 53 (Ghar el-Melh) 147 Phoenician 108–9
Capitol (Dougga) 29, 232 Roman fort pottery workshop
Capitol (Sbeïtla) 222 (Ksar Ghilane) 202 (Utique) 146
Capsian people 49 Spanish Fort (Bizerte) 145 Sejnane 138
Car rental 317 see also Gateways; shopping for 288
Caravans 203 Kasbahs; Ksour; Ribats tiles 32, 119
Carpets 40 Catacombs, Sousse 15, 55, Chafaar 151
Kairouan 245, 284 157 Chambi 224
Kairouan Museum 241 Cathedrals Chambi National Park 231
shopping for 288 St Louis (Carthage) 12, 14, Charles V, King of Spain
Carthage 10, 12, 14, 106 103, 165
106–11 St Vincent de Paul and St Chauves-Souris cave
architectural influence 28 Olive (Tunis) 12, 14, 29, (El-Haouaria) 113
fall of 51, 52, 228 78–9, 86 Chebika 11, 13, 15, 39,
history of 50–51, 106 Causeway, Douz to Tozeur 208–9, 214
hotels 253 route 210, 212 Chechias 35, 41, 304
International Festival 44, Caves Chenini 13, 198
290–91 El-Haouaria 113 Chergui Island 176
International Film see also Troglodyte homes Chichas 35, 289, 305
Festival 45 Cedouikech 186 Children
map 107 Cedratine 265 activities for 292, 293
restaurants 268 Cemeteries in hotels 250–51
Carthage Museum 12, 14, Jellaz Cemetery (Tunis) 91 see also Amusement
108–9 Muslim soldiers’ parks; Water parks; Zoos
Cash dispensers 308, 309 (Haffouz) 244 Chimtou 130, 132, 134
324 GENERAL INDEX
Chott el-Gharsa 27 Coastline 27 Dar Ennejma Ezzahra

Chott el-Jerid 13, 15, 26–7, see also Beaches (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101
66, 196, 212 Coffee 264 Dar Essid (Sousse) 156–7
crossing 210 Coins, Phoenician 109 Dar Hammamet 122
mirages 204, 212 Colonial architecture 29 Dar Hussein (Tunis) 81, 83
in The English Patient 39 Colonial rule 60–62 Dar Jellouli Museum (Sfax)
Christianity 54–5 Communications 310–11 15, 67, 172–3
Catacombs (Sousse) 157 Constantine the Great 53 Dar Lasram (Tunis) 84–5
Churches 54–5 Constitution 22, 63 Dar Lounga (Gafsa) 220
Basilica (Henchir Khira) 86 Copper products 40 Dar Othman (Tunis) 82
Basilica of Carthagenna Coral 130, 285, 288 Dars 175
(Carthage) 110 Coral Reef (Tabarka) 131, Date Harvest Festival
Basilica of Hildeguns 296 (Kebili) 45
(Makthar) 228 Coralis festival (Tabarka) 45 Dates 24, 206
Basilica of the Martyrs Cork harvesting 134 Degache 210
(Haïdra) 224 Corsairs see Piracy Department stores 282
Bellator Basilica Costumes Desert rose 210
(Sbeïtla) 223 Dar Jellouli Museum Deserts
Byzantine church (Sfax) 172 oases 206–7
(Bulla Regia) 136 Museum of Traditional types of 195, 204
Church of St Peter Costume (Monastir) 159 see also Sahara Desert
(Le Kef ) 230 Couscous 260, 263, 304 Desserts 263
Mellus Basilica Crafts see Handicrafts Destour Party 61, 158
(Haïdra) 225 Cranes, common 139 Dhahak, Brahim 102
St Cyprian Basilica Credit cards 308 Dialling codes 310
(Carthage) 109 at petrol stations 308 Dido, Princess of Tyre 50,
St Servus (Sbeïtla) 223 in shops 282, 284 110
St Vitalis Basilica Crime 306 Dido Receiving Aeneas
(Sbeïtla) 222 Cruises, Port el-Kantaoui (Solimena) 110
Thuburbo Majus 234 152 Diocletian, Emperor 52
Churchill, Sir Winston 124 Culture 20–21 Disabled travellers 303
Cillium see Kasserine Currency 282, 308–9 in hotels 250
Cinema 38–9, 291, 293 Custom regulations 302–3 Discounts
Film-makers in Tunisia 25, Customs see Traditions child 250
38–9 Cycling 297, 299 student 303
Cippi 111 Cyprian, St 109, 225 Diving and snorkelling 296,
Circumcision 35, 212, 305 299
Cisterns festivals of diving 44, 45
Aghlabid Basins D Kerkennah Islands 176
(Kairouan) 240 Dakar Rally 46, 221, 294–5 La Galite archipelago 138
Great Mosque Dar ben Abdallah (Tunis) 82 Port el-Kantaoui 152
(Kairouan) 242 Dar Cheraït (Tozeur) 212, Tabarka 130, 131
Climate 47, 302 292 Djerba 11, 15, 67, 179–87
Clothes Dar el-Achab (Dougga) 232 beaches 191
etiquette 304 Dar el-Annabi ceramics 118, 186
in the Sahara 204 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101 character 179
Club Africain 294 Dar el-Bey (Tunis) 72, 76–7 climate 47, 180
Club Mediterranée 249 Dar el-Haddad (Tunis) 83 getting there and around
Club Sfaxien 294 Dar el-Shariff (Gafsa) 220 181
GENERAL INDEX 325
Djerba (cont.) Economy 24 Entertainment (cont.)

hotels 256–7 Education 20 festivals 290–91
map 180–81 El-Attaia 176 information 290
olive festival 46 El-bijazi script 171 music 290, 293
Passover festival 42 El-Djadid 238 nightlife 291, 293
restaurants 276–7 El-Djem 10, 15, 52, 149, 167 theatre 291, 293
sights at a glance 180 hotels 255 traditional shows 290
Dolls, Tunisian 157 International Festival of d’ Erlanger, Elizabeth 101
Donatists 54, 234 Symphonic Music 44, 291 d’ Erlanger, Baron Rodolphe
Donatus, Bishop of restaurants 273 100, 101
Carthage 54 El-Faouar 211 Eros (bronze statuette) 92
Door handles 213 El-Ghriba Synagogue Esparto grass 204, 224
Doors, Tunisian 97, 125 (Djerba) 11, 13, 42, 179, Espérance Sportive 294
Sidi Bou Saïd 97, 100 184, 187 Essebi, Mohammed Beji
Dougga 10, 14, 226–7, El-Guettar 221 Caid 23
232–3 El-Hadi Beness Essid, Habib 63
International Festival of el-Mekhnessi 230 Etiquette 302, 304–5
Classical Theatre 44 El-Haouaria 113 alcohol 305
Numidian mausoleum 50 falconry festival 44 clothing 304
site map 232 hotels 253 during Ramadan 261
Temple of Caelestis 219 restaurants 269 photography 305
Ulysses and the Sirens El-Kadima 158 in tourist zones 250
(mosaic) 229 El-Kantara 192 Etoile Sportive du Sahel
Douz 13, 15, 202, 211 El-Katib Mosque 294
driving tour 210–11 (Mahboubine) 185 European Union 24
hotels 258 El-Mansour, Caliph 244 Evacuation Day 45
International Festival of El-May 184 Events, calendar of 42–6
the Sahara 36, 45, 202 El-Mouradi hotel chain 249 Excursions, from hotels 251
restaurants 277–8 El-Sadiq Bey, Mohammed Extreme sports 298
Sahara excursions from 205 59 F
Dragut 166, 183 El-Sheikh Mosque Falconry 113
Drama see Theatre (Houmt Souk) 182 festival (El-Haouaria) 44,
Drinks see Food and drink Embassies 303 113
Driving 316–17 Emergency numbers 307 Fantasia (Midoun) 186
in towns 316–17 Enfida 157 Fantasia (Sidi Ali ben
in Tunis 319 Enfida International Airport Nasrallach) 244
Driving tours
312, 313 Farhat, Ammar 102
Around the Gulf of
The English Patient 25, 38, 39 Fatima, daughter of
Bou Grara 192–3
Midès 215 Prophet Mohammed 57,
around Tabarka 132–3
Sfax 169, 170 81
Douz to Tozeur 210–11
Tamerza 215 Fatima, Hand of 81, 213,
Dunes, sand 204
Ennadha 63 285
Duty-free
Ennasr, restaurants 268 Fatimid dynasty 57
allowances 302–3
Entertainment 290–93 ceramics 118
shops 282, 303
amusement parks 292, 293 coins 244
E casinos 291, 293 Fatimid Port (Mahdia) 166
Eco-museum (Ichkeul children’s activities 292, Fax services 310
National Park) 141 293 Feija National Park 231
École de Tunis 21–2, 102, 284 cinema 291, 293 Fennec fox 26
326 GENERAL INDEX
Fernana 133 France Gide, André 67, 100, 124

Ferries 313 colonial rule 59, 60–62 Gightis 192
Djerba 185, 192 ferries to/from 313 Glossary 342–3
Kerkennah Islands 176 independence from 22, Gold jewellery 285
Festivals 21, 42–6, 290–91 62–3 Golden Tulip hotel chain
Islamic 43 Funfairs 292 249
Film Golf 298, 299
G
festivals 45 Port el-Kantaoui 152
Gabès 62, 176 Good Shepherd
Film-makers in Tunisia 25,
Gulf of 139, 176 Catacombs (Sousse) 157
38–9
hotels 255 Gordian I 52–3
Fire brigade 307
restaurants 273 Gordian II 53
First Choice Holidays 313
Gabriel, Archangel 32 Granaries, fortified see Ksour
Fish, coral reef (Tabarka)
Gafsa 220, 221 Grand Erg Oriental see
131
hotels 259 Sahara Desert
Fishing industry 24
restaurants 279–80 Great Eastern Erg see
La Goulette 103
Galite archipelago 130 Sahara Desert
Tuna fishing
Galleries see Museums Greater Tunis 95–112
(Sidi Daoud) 113
and galleries 2 Days Exploring Greater
Five Pillars of Islam 33
Games 35, 286 Tunis 12
Fizzy drinks 264, 265
Gammarth 98 getting there 97
Flamingo Island 185
beaches 99 hotels 253–4
Flamingoes 139, 185 hotels 253
Flavian dynasty 52 map 96–7
restaurants 268 restaurants 268–71
Mausoleum 224 Gammoudi, Mohammed
Flavours of Tunisia 262–3 sights at a glance 97
295 Green Tunisia 138
Flying, light aircraft 298 Gateways 175
Folk art festival Grombalia 124
Bab Diwan (Sfax) 168 wine festival 45, 124
(Tataouine) 42 Bab Djedid (Kairouan)
Folk Tales, Dar Cheraït Guellala 13, 118, 181, 186
238, 241 ceramics 40, 186
(Tozeur) 212 Bab ech-Chouhada
Fondouks 248 Guides 319
(Kairouan) 238
Food and drink Gulf of Bou Grara see
Bab el-Aïn (Makthar) 228
Bedouin bread 202 Bou Grara, Gulf of
Bab el-Bahr (Tunis) 81
Gulf of Gabès see Gabès,
Flavours of Tunisia 262–3 Bab el-Khoukha
Gulf of
shopping for 289 (Kairouan) 238
Gulf War (1990) 23
Tunisian condiments 202 Bab Tunis (Kairouan) 238
what to drink 264–5 Skifa el-Kahla (Mahdia) 164 H
what to eat 260–61 Genets 140 Habib Bourguiba
see also Cafés; Restaurants Genoese fort (Tabarka) 58, Mausoleum (Monastir) 15,
Football 294 130 158
Foreign affairs 23 Genseric 53 Haddada tribe 198
Fortresses see Castles and Ghar el-Melh 126, 147 Hadrian, Emperor 234, 235
fortifications Gharbi Island 176 Haffouz 244
Forum, Roman Ghardimaou 132 Hafsid dynasty 57, 58
Bulla Regis 137 Ghorfas 200–201 ceramics 118
Dougga 232 Ksar Haddada 198 Tunis under 69
Makthar 228 Ksar Ouled Soltane 196, Haggling 282, 283
Sbeïtla 223 199 Haïdra 224–5
Thuburbo Majus 234 Medenine 190 Hamdoun tribe 198
GENERAL INDEX 327
The Hammam 177 Henchir el-Fouar 135 Historic houses (cont.)

see also Baths Henchir Khira 86 House of the Hunt
Hammam Bourguiba 132 Henna 34, 36, 176 (Utique) 146
Hammam Sousse Henson, John and Violet see also Dars; Palaces
beaches 153 124 History 49–63
festivals 157 Hergla 150, 152 Arab rule 56–7
Hammam Sultan (Sfax) 170 beaches 153 Byzantine rule 53
Hammamet 14, 122–4 Hermes Catacombs early settlers 49
Arab Music Festival 291 (Sousse) 157 French colonial rule 59,
beaches 123, 124 Herodotus 50 60–62
festivals 44 Highway code 316 Independence
hotels 253–4 Hijab 21, 34, 304 Movement 60–61, 62–3
map 123 attempt to ban 23 Ottoman rule 57–8
medina 94 Hiking 296–7 Phoenician period 50–51
orange blossom festival Hilalian invasions 228, 238 Post-war period 62–3
42 Hildeguns, King of the Roman period 52–3
restaurants 268–9 Vandals 228 Vandal empire 53
Hammouda Bey (Pasha) 59 Hiram I, King of Tyre 50 World War II 62
Hammouda ibn Ali Bey 103 Historic houses Hookahs see Chichas
Hammouda Pasha 73, 80, Dar ben Abdallah Horse riding 298, 299
81, 91, 240 (Tunis) 82 Hospitality 304
Hammouda Pasha Mosque Dar Cheraït (Tozeur) 212, Hospitals 307
(Tunis) 73, 80 292 Hot springs
Hand of Fatima talisman Dar el-Achab (Dougga) Korbous 112–13
81, 213, 285 232 Ksar Ghilane 202
Handball 295 Dar el-Annabi Hot-air ballooning 294
Handicrafts 40–41 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101 Hotel du Lac (Tunis) 29
dolls 157 Dar el-Bey (Tunis) 72, Hôtel Majestic (Tunis) 86
and the economy 24 76–7 Hotels 248–59
shops 284, 285 Dar el-Haddad (Tunis) 83 air conditioning 248
see also Shopping Dar el-Shariff (Gafsa) 220 booking 249
Hanefite School 182 Dar Ennejma Ezzahra Central Tunisia 259
Hanifa, Imam ibn 124 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101 children in 250–51, 292
Hannibal 48, 51, 106 Dar Essid (Sousse) 156–7 Djerba and the Medenine
exiled on Kerkennah Dar Hammamet 122 Area 256–7
Islands 176 Dar Hussein (Tunis) 81, 83 entertainment 251, 290
Hannibal Park Dar Jellouli Museum excursions 251
(Port el- Kantaoui) 152 (Sfax) 67, 172–3 Greater Tunis and Cap
Hara Kebira 184 Dar Lasram (Tunis) 84–5 Bon peninsula 253–4
Hara Sghira 184 Dar Loungu (Gafsa) 220 hotel categories 248–9
Harissa 115, 202, 262 Dar Othman (Tunis) 82 hotel chains 249, 251
Hassan ibn Ali Bey 100 House of Amphitrite hôtels de charme 248,
Hathor Miskar Temple (Bulla Regis) 136 249
(Makthar) 228 House of the Cascades nightlife 291
Hats, traditional Tunisian (Utique) 146 Northern Tunisia 254–5
see Chechias House of the Historic prices 249
Hauli 36 Capitals (Utique) 146 The Sahel 255–6
Health 306–7 House of the Hunt shops 282
Heatstroke 307 (Bulla Regis) 136 Southern Tunisia 258–9
328 GENERAL INDEX
Hotels (cont.) International Festival of Jasmine Road (Bizerte) 44

swimming pools 248 Classical Theatre Jazz festival (Tabarka) 44, 291
in tourist zones 250 (Dougga) 44 Jebel Biada hills 221
Tunis 252–3 International Festival of the Jebel Bir 133, 297
types of 248 Sahara (Douz) 36, 45, 202 Jebel Chambi 217, 224, 231
Houbara bustards 139 International Festival of Jebel Dyr 230
Houmt Souk 13, 182–3 Symphonic Music Jebel Ichkeul 140, 297
jewellery 285 (El-Djem) 44, 291 Jebel Oust 235
Ulysses Festival 44 International Film Festival Jebel Zaghouan 217, 235
Hount Souk 179 (Carthage) 45 Jellaz Cemetery (Tunis) 91
House of Amphitrite International Malouf Music Jemaa el-Zitouna see
(Bulla Regis) 136 Festival (Testour) 44, 135, Mosques, Great Mosque
House of the Cascades 291 (Tunis)
(Utique) 146 International Music Festival Jendouba 133
House of the Historic (Hammamet) 44 hotels 255
Capitals (Utique) 146 International Oases Festival restaurants 272
House of the Hunt (Tozeur) 45 Jerba see Djerba
(Bulla Regis) 136 Internet Jerid region 215
House of the Hunt access 310 carpets 40
(Utique) 146 booking hotels on 249, 251 Jerid festival 42
Hunting 134, 297 Irrigation systems 214 Jesus of Nazareth (film) 39
Aghlabid Basins Jewellery 41
Husayn bin Ali 58–9, 230,
(Kairouan) 240 coral 130
241
Islam 305 Dar Jellouli Museum
Husaynid dynasty 58–9
architectural influence (Sfax) 173
Ali Turki Mausoleum
30–31 Phoenician 111
(Le Kef ) 230
calligraphy 171 shopping for 285, 286,
Tourbet el-Bey (Tunis)
festivals calendar 43 288
82–3
Five Pillars of 33 Jews, Djerba 179, 184, 187
Hussein, Bey 82, 122
in Tunisia 32–3 Jihad 184
Hussein, Saddam 23
see also Sufism Jorf 185, 192
Hygiene 306–7
Islamic art see Art, Islamic Judaism see Jews
restaurants 261, 306
Israeli-Palestinian conflict 23 Judo 295
I Italy Jugurtha, King of Numidia
ferries to/from 313 51, 225
Ibadites 179, 182, 184
World War II 62 Jugurtha’s Table 217, 225
Ibd Mahmud 82
Itineraries 10–15 Julia Carthage 52
Ichkeul National Park 139,
A Week in the South 11, 13 Jupiter, statue of (Bardo
140–41, 231, 296–7
2 Days Exploring Greater Museum, Tunis) 234
Ifriqiyya 49, 56
Tunis 12 Justinian, Emperor 53, 135,
Independence Day 42
2 Days in Tunis 12 225
Independence Movement
2 Weeks in Tunisia 10,
60–61, 62–3 K
14–15
Ingram, Rex 38 Kaak, Mustapha 62
International Cultural J Kab el-ghazal 198
Centre (Hammamet) 124 Jallouli, Taieb 38, 39 Kabadu, Sheikh
International Festival Jama’a el-Baldawi Mosque Mohammed 60
(Carthage) 44, 290–91 (near Ajim) 184 Kahia el-Hanafi, Slimane 82
International Festival of Jasmine 152 Kairouan 15, 174, 238–45
Bizerte 44 Jasmine Revolution 23, 144 carpets 40, 245
GENERAL INDEX 329
Kairouan (cont.) Khalaout el-Koubba La Marsa 12, 98

excavations 111 (Sousse) 150, 156 beaches 99
Great Mosque 57, 216, Kharijism 184 festivals 44
242–3 Kharja Festival hotels 254
history 56 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 44 restaurants 270
hotels 259 Kheiredine Pasha 60, 61 Lablabi 260, 262
map of medina 239 Khelala 36, 37 Labus (chieftain) 50
olive festival 46 Khnis 161 Laforcade, Josepha de 91
restaurants 280–81 Khroumirie Mountains 132, Lag Ba’omer 187
Kairouan el-Maafri, 134 Laghmi 265
Mohammed bin 239 hiking 297 Lake Bizerte 144
Kairouan Museum 241 Khroumirie tribesmen 59, Lake Ichkeul 115, 129, 139
Kalaa Kebira, olive festival 46 133, 134 Lake Tunis 14, 103
Kalaat es-Senam 225 Klee, Paul 98, 100, 102 restaurants 269
Kamounia 260 Knotted carpets see Lalla 221
Kasbah Mosque (Tunis) 84 Alloucha carpets Lalla Hadria Museum of
Kasbahs 31 The Koran 32–3, 171 Islamic Art (Midoun) 186
Béja 135 Korba 115 Lalla Ma (goddess) 230
Bizerte 145 Amateur Theatre Festival Lamta 161
Hammamet 122 44 Landscape 26–7
Kairouan 244 Korbous 112–13 Language 303
La Goulette 103 Kriz 212 phrase book 344
Le Kef 174, 230 Ksar see Ksour Lasram, Hammoud 84
Sfax 170 Ksar Ghilane 13, 202 Lavigerie, Cardinal 106
Sousse 14–15, 156, 174 hotels 256 Le Kef 230
Toujane 190 Ksar Haddada 11, 13, 38, French take control of 59,
Tunis 77, 84, 174 198 130, 230
Kasserine 217, 224 Ksar Lemsa 244 hotels 259
Ksar Oued Soltane 195, 196, restaurants 281
battle of 224
199, 200 Leatherware 41, 287, 288
hotels 259
Ksar Ouled Soltane, festivals
restaurants 281 Legal system 22
45
ruins of Roman Cillium Leptis Minor see Lamta
Ksour 28, 37, 200–201
224 Lézard Rouge train 214, 220
map 201
Kebili 210, 211 Life of Brian 38, 39, 160
Medenine 190
date harvest festival 45 Life of Christ 160
Nabeul 116
hotels 258 Lighthouses
Ksour Essaf 166
Kelibia 115 Borj Jillij 185
Ksour festivals 42, 45
hotels 254 Ras Taguerness 186
Ksar Ouled Soltane 199
restaurants 269 Liqueurs 265
Tataouine 198
Ken 157 Literacy 20
Kufic script 171, 239
Kerkennah Islands 176 Literature 20
beaches 153 L Lluria, Roger de, King of
festivals 42, 44 La Corbeille (Nefta) 213 Sicily 183
hotels 256 La Galite archipelago 138 Louages 315
restaurants 273–4 La Goulette 103 Louis IX, King of France 57,
Kerkouane 114–15, 117 beaches 99 106
hotels 254 hotels 254 Lounifie, Anisa 295
Khair ed-Din Barbarossa see restaurants 270 Lucas, George 38–9, 176,
Barbarossa La Kesra 244 195, 198–9
330 GENERAL INDEX
Lucius Verus, Emperor 93 Maps (cont.) Marzouki, Moncef 23

Lufthansa 312, 313 Kairouan Medina 239 Masjid see Mosques
Lycinian Baths (Dougga) Mahdia 165 Massinissa (Numidian king)
233 Monastir 159 225, 232
Nabeul 117 Matanza 113
M road map of Tunisia see Mateur Plain 231
Macke, Auguste 102 inside back cover Matmata 11, 13, 15, 38, 176
Madame Butterfly (film) 39 The Sahel 150–51 hotels 256
The Maghreb 58, 60 Sbeïtla site map 222 restaurants 274
Maghribi calligraphy 171 Sfax Medina 169 troglodyte pit houses 28,
Mahalli, Bey 59 Sousse Medina 155 176
Mahboubine 185 Southern Tunisia 196–7 Mausoleums see Tombs
Mahdia 149, 164–6, 174 Tunis: the Medina street- and mausoleums
hotels 256 by-street 72–3 Meals 304
map 165 Tunis: town centre 70–71 Mecca
olive festival 46 Tunisia 16–17 Kairouan connections
restaurants 274 Tunisia at a Glance 66–7 with 238, 239
Mahdia shipwreck 92, 93 visiting a Ksar 201 pilgrimage to 33, 242
Mahmoud Bey 100 Marabouts 161 Medenine 179, 190
Mahrès, Plastic Arts Festival see also Cemeteries; hotels 257
44 Tombs and mausoleums; restaurants 277
Maisons des jeunes 250 Zaouias Medenine Area
Makthar 228 Marble quarries character 179
Malekite School 179, 182 (Chimtou) 134 climate 47
Malouf 22 Marcus Aurelius, Emperor getting there and around
Centre of Arab and 228 181
Mediterranean Music Marhalas 250 hotels 257
(Sidi Bou Saïd) 101 Marinas 299 map 180–81
in hotels 251 Monastir 158, 161, 295 restaurants 277
International Malouf Port el-Kantaoui 152, 295 sights at a glance 180–81
Music Festival (Testour) Sidi Bou Saïd 101, 295 Medersas 31
44, 135, 291 Yasmine Hammamet 153 Medersa of Husayn
Man on a Donkey Marius (Roman (Kairouan) 241
(Dhahak) 102 commander) 220 Medersa Mouradia
Mansourah beach 115 Markets 283 (Tunis) 83
Maps Béja 135 Three Medersas
Around Tabarka 132–3 Ben Guerdane 190, 192 (Tunis) 73, 76
buying 317 Enfida 157 Zaouia of Sidi Brahim
Carthage 107 Fernana 133 (Houmt Souk) 182
Central Tunisia 218–19 fish market (Sfax) 169 Media 310–11
Djerba and the Medenine Main Market (Tunis) 90 Medical care 307
Area 180–81 Menzel Temime 115 Medina Conservation
Dougga site map 232 Midoun 186 Society 85
Douz to Tozeur 210–11 Nabeul 116 Medina Festival (Tunis) 46,
Greater Tunis and Cap Sfax 168, 170 290
Bon Peninsula 96–7 Tataouine 198 Medinas 31, 174–5
Gulf of Bou Grara 192–3 see also Shopping; Souks Béja 135
Hammamet 123 Martyrs’ Monument Bizerte 145
Houmt Souk 183 (Bizerte) 145 Gafsa 220
GENERAL INDEX 331
Medinas (cont.) Minarets (cont.) Mosaics 21, 41, 54–5

Hammamet 122 Great Mosque (Testour) Archaeology Museum
Kairouan 238–9 135 (Nabeul) 117
Mahdia 164–5 Great Mosque (Tunis) 74 Archaeology Museum
Midoun 186 Mosque of the Strangers (Sousse) 156
Monastir 158–9 (Houmt Souk) 182 Bardo Museum (Tunis) 67,
Sfax 168–70, 174 Mustapha Hamza 88–9, 92–3
Sousse 154–7 Mosque (Mahdia) 164 Bulla Regis 136
Tebourba 135 Ottoman period 165 Carthage Museum 108
Tunis 72–85 Zaghouan 235 Gafsa museum 220
Medjerda Valley 26, 52, 127 Zaouia of Sidi Bou Roman 229
Mehrez ibn Chalaf see Sidi Makhlouf (Le Kef ) 230 shopping for 289
Mehrez Zaouia of Sidi Sahib Thuburbo Majus 234
Mellouli, Oussama 294, 295 (Kairouan) 240 Mosques
Mellus, Bishop 225 Zaouia Zakkak (Sousse) 155 Abdellatif Mosque
Mellus Basilica (Haïdra) 225 Zitouna Mosque (Testour) 135
Memmian Baths (Kairouan) 241 Ali el-Mezeri Mosque
(Bulla Regis) 137 Minghella, Anthony 39, 169 (Monastir) 158
Mendès-France, Pierre 62 Mining 24 Amar Kamoun Mosque
Menzel Bou Zelfa 114 Mirages 204 (Sfax) 169
orange blossom festival 42 Mitterand, Frédéric 39 architecture 30, 175
Menzel Bourguiba 144 Mobile phones 310 Bourguiba Mosque
Menzel Temime 115 Modernism 29 (Monastir) 30, 158, 159
Menzels 185 Mohammed, the Prophet El-Katib Mosque
Djerba 179 and the Archangel (Mahboubine) 185
Mergoum carpets 40, 245, Gabriel 32 El-Sheikh Mosque
288 and cicumcision 35 (Houmt Souk) 182
Mermaid Festival hairs from his beard 240 fortified 184
(Kerkennah Islands) 44 and Islamic architecture Great Mosque (Bizerte) 145
Metalwork 40, 289 30 Great Mosque (Gafsa) 220
Metameur 190 Islamic calendar 43 Great Mosque
restaurants 277 Koran revealed to 32 (Hammamet) 122
Metlaoui 220 Mohammed V, Sultan 103 Great Mosque (Kairouan)
hotels 259 Mohammedia 112 57, 216, 236–7, 242–3
restaurants 281 Moilliet, Louis 102 Great Mosque (Le Kef ) 30,
Micipsa (Numidian leader) Monastir 15, 149, 158–61 230
225 beaches 153, 161 Great Mosque (Mahdia)
Midès 215 hotels 256 165
festival of the mountain map 159 Great Mosque (Monastir)
oases 42 port 161 158, 159
Midoun 13, 185, 186 restaurants 275 Great Mosque (Nabeul)
Military Academy (Bizerte) Monastir Habib Bourguiba 116
145 Airport 312, 313 Great Mosque (Sfax) 168
Les Mimosas (Tabarka) 130 Money 308–9 Great Mosque (Sousse)
Minarets 30 Montgomery, General 154, 162–3
Great Mosque (Gafsa) 220 Bernard Law 62 Great Mosque (Tebourba)
Great Mosque (Kairouan) Monty Python 38, 39, 160 135
30, 242 Monument of Skulls Great Mosque (Testour)
Great Mosque (Sfax) 168 (Houmt Souk) 13, 183 135
332 GENERAL INDEX
Mosques (cont.) Muezzins 30, 241 Museums and galleries

Great Mosque (Tunis) 12, Murad II 83 (cont.)
68, 69, 73, 74–5 Murad Bey 145 Museum of Popular Arts
Hammouda Pasha Muradid dynasty 58 and Traditions (Sousse)
Mosque (Tunis) 73, 80 Museums and galleries 156
Jama’a el-Baldawi Archaeological Museum Museum of Popular Arts
(near Ajim) 184 (Sfax) 170 and Traditions (Tozeur)
Kasbah Mosque (Tunis) 84 Archaeology Museum 13, 15, 212
Menzel Bourguiba 144 (Nabeul) 116–17 Museum of Popular Arts
Mosque of the Barber Archaeology Museum and Traditions (Tunis) 82
(Kairouan) 240 (Sousse) 156 Museum of Traditional
Mosque el-Bey (Kairouan) Bardo Museum (Tunis) Architecture (Sfax) 170
238 12, 14, 67, 88–9, 92–3 Museum of Traditional
Mosque el-Maalek Carthage Museum 12, 14, Costume (Monastir) 15,
(Kairouan) 238 108–9 159
Mosque of Sidi Bou Centre of Arab and National Museum of
Makhlouf (Le Kef ) 230 Mediterranean Music Islamic Art (Reqqada) 244
Mosque of the Strangers (Sidi Bou Saïd) 100, 101 Oceanographic Museum
(Houmt Souk) 182 Chimtou site museum (Carthage) 110, 292
Mosque of the Three 134 Oceanography Museum
Doors (Kairouan) 239 Dar Cheraït (Tozeur) 212, (Bizerte) 145
Mosque of the Turks 292 Regional Museum of
(Houmt Souk) 182 Dar Essid (Sousse) 156–7 Popular Arts and
and Muslim worship 33 Dar Jellouli Museum Traditions (Le Kef ) 230
Mustapha Hamza (Sfax) 15, 67, 172–3 Roman and Paleo-
Mosque (Mahdia) 164 Eco-museum Christian Museum
Nefta 213 (Ichkeul National Park) 141 (Carthage) 109, 110
Sidi Abdel Kader El-Djem museum 167 Sbeïtla site museum 223
(Hammamet) 122 Enfida museum 157 Utique museum 146
Sidi Driss Mosque Gafsa museum 220 Music 290, 293
(Gabès) 176 Guellala Museum of Aissaouia 230
Sidi Mehrez Mosque Popular Traditions 186 Centre of Arab and
(Tunis) 70, 85 International Cultural Mediterranean Music
Sidi Sahab Mosque Centre (Hammamet) 124 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101
(Kairouan) 218 Islamic Art Centre festivals 42, 44, 124
Sidi Youssef Mosque (Ribat, Monastir) 160 influences on 20, 22
(Tunis) 72, 76 Kairouan Museum 241 instruments 198
Slimen Hamza Mosque Lalla Hadria Museum of International Cultural
(Mahdia) 165 Islamic Art (Midoun) 186 Centre (Hammamet)
Umm et-Turkia (El-May) Makthar museum 228 124
184 Modern Art and Cinema malouf 22
Zitouna Mosque Museum (Tunis) 91 Muslims 305
(Kairouan) 241 Municipal Museum Islam in Tunisia 32–3
Motor rallies 46, 221, 294–5, (Mahdia) 164 Islamic architecture
299 Museum of Arts and 30–31
Motorbikes 297 Popular Traditions Islamic festivals 43
Mouled 43 (Houmt Souk) 183 see also Islam
Mountain Oases, Museum of Popular Arts Mustapha Hamza Mosque
Festival of the 42 and Traditions (Gabès) 176 (Mahdia) 164
GENERAL INDEX 333
N Northern Tunisia 126–47 Order of the White Fathers

Nabeul 14, 116–19, beaches 147 106
300–301 climate 47 Osta Murad Dey fortress
ceramics 40, 96, 118–19, getting there 129 (Ghar el-Melh) 147
288 history 127 Othman, Bey 73, 80, 82
hotels 254 hotels 254–5 Othmana, Aziza 73, 80
map 117 map 128–9 Otters 140
orange blossom festival 42 restaurants 271–3 Ottoman rule 57–8
restaurants 270–71 sights at a glance 128 Oudna 112
Nador 146 Nu’man, Hassan ibn 56, 69 Oued 26
Nador (Ribat, Sousse) 154 Numidia 51, 220, 228 Oued Cherichera 244
National Assembly 22 Chimtou 134 Oued el-Habeb 224
National Library (Tunis) 12, Jugurtha’s Table 225 Oued Meliane 235
73, 81 Numidian tombs (Le Kef ) Ouled Chehida tribe 199,
National Museum of 230 200
Islamic Art (Reqqada) 244 Nusair, Musa ibn 56 Ouled ech-Cherif (Nefta)
National Palace (Monastir) 213
O Ouled el-Hadef (Tozeur)
158
National parks 231 Oases 27, 203, 206–7 212
Bou Hedma National Park International Oases Ouled Kacem 176
Festival (Tozeur) 45 Outdoor activities 296–9
231
see also Chebika; Degache; see also Birdwatching;
Boukornine National Park
Douz; El-Faouar; Gabès; Sport
231
Gafsa; Guettar; Ksar Overland travel 313
Chambi National Park
224, 231 Ghilane; Lalla; Midès; Nefta; P
Feija National Park 231 Remada; Tamerza; Tozeur Package holidays 248, 313
Ichkeul National Park 139, Obeid Allah el-Mahdi 164, Painting 21–2
140–41, 231 165, 166 shopping 284
Zembra and Zembretta Oceanographic Museum Palaces
National Park 113, 231 (Carthage) 110, 292 Abdallia Palace
Neapolis (Nabeul) 117 Oceanography Museum (La Marsa) 98
Nechon 50 (Bizerte) 145 Dar ben Abdallah
Necropolis Octavian Augustus, (Tunis) 82
Mahdia 166 Emperor 52, 112 Dar el-Annabi
Utique 146 Octopus Festival (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101
Nefta 15, 19, 213 (Kerkennah Islands) 42 Dar el-Bey
hotels 258 Odysseus 179 (Tunis) 72, 76–7
Jerid festival 42 Office National de Dar el-Haddad (Tunis) 83
restaurants 278 L’Artisanat 284 Dar Ennejma Ezzahra
Neo-Destour Party 61, 63, Old Port (Bizerte) 144 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101
158 Olive festivals 46 Dar Hussein
Neolithic period 230 Olive oil 24, 149, 157 (Tunis) 81, 83
Neptune’s Triumph (mosaic) Opening hours Dar Lasram
229 banks 308 (Tunis) 84–5
New Year 46 restaurants and cafés Dar Othman (Tunis) 82
Newspapers 311 261 National Palace (Monastir)
The Night Scene 102 shops 282 158
Nightlife 291, 293 Oqba ibn Nafi 56, 156, 238 Palace of Ahmed Bey
Nights of La Marsa 44 Orange blossom festival 42 (Mohammedia) 112
334 GENERAL INDEX
Palaces (cont.) Phoenicians (cont.) Polygamy 23, 34

Presidential Palace shrines 111 Pony-trekking, Belvedere
(Carthage) 109 see also Carthage; Park (Tunis) 91
Qasr el-Fath Kerkouane; Sousse; Population 19
(Reqqada) 244 Utique Port el-Kantaoui 39, 152
Sabra (near Kairouan) 244 Phosphates 24, 214, 220 beaches 152, 153
see also Historic houses Photography 305 diving and snorkelling 296
Palaeolithic era 49 government buildings 109 hotels 256
Palaestra of the Petronii Phrase book 344 marina 152
(Thuburbo Majus) 234 Pilgrimages 30–31 restaurants 275
Palm Tree, Medersa of the El-Ghriba (Djerba) 187 Porto Farina 147
(Tunis) 76 Kairouan Great Mosque Portrait of an Old Woman
Paper production 171, 217, 238, 242 (Turki) 102
224 to Mecca 33 Postal services 311
Paragliding 296 Zaouia of Sidi Amor Pottery see Ceramics
Parks and gardens Abbada (Kairouan) 240 Prayer Hall (Great Mosque,
Belvedere Park (Tunis) 91, Piracy 58, 59, 85 Kairouan) 243
292 La Goulette 103 President, role of the 22
botanical garden (Tozeur) Mahdia 166 Presidential Palace
13, 15, 212 replica pirate ship (Carthage) 109
Hannibal Park (Port (Port el-Kantaoui) 39, 152 The Press 311
el-Kantaoui) 152 Pirates (film) 38, 39 Prices
Parc Djerba Explore Place du Caire (Mahdia) hotels 249
(Midoun) 15, 186 164–5 restaurants 261
Park Friguia (Bou Ficha) Place Farhat Hached youth hostels 250
157, 292 (Sousse) 154 Public holidays 46
see also Amusement Place du Gouvernement Punic architecture 28, 114
parks; Water parks (Tunis) 12, 72, 77 Punic mausoleum
Parti Socialiste Destourien Place du Gouvernorat (Makthar) 228
(PSD) 63 (Monastir) 159 Punic period see
Passover festival (El- Ghriba Place Hedi Chaker Phoenicians
Synagogue, Djerba) 42, (Houmt Souk) 182 Punic Ports (Carthage) 109,
184 Place de l’Indépendence 110
Passports 302 (Le Kef ) 230 Punic Wars 51, 106
lost/stolen 306 Place de la Kasbah First 230
Patton, General George 62 (Tunis) 69 Second 225
Place Lahedine Third 146, 167
Perfumes 41
Bouchoucha (Bizerte) 145 Pupput 124
shopping for 286, 288
Souk el-Attarine (Tunis) 80 Place des Martyrs Q
Perpetua, St 54, 107, 234 (Sousse) 154 Qadiriyya group 244
Personal property 306 Place de la République Qasr el-Fath (Reqqada) 244
Petro-chemicals 24 (Sfax) 169 Quarries (Chimtou) 134
Petrol 317 Planet Oasis Quo Vadis 39
The Phantom Menace 38, (Tozeur) 212, 292 Quran see Koran
198, 199 Plastic Arts Festival
Pharmacies 307 (Mahrès) 44 R
Phoenicians 49, 50–51 Polanski, Roman 38, 39 Radio 311
art 108, 111 Police 306, 307 Raf Raf 127, 147
culture 111 Politics 22–3 hotels 255
GENERAL INDEX 335
Rahmania Brotherhood Restaurants (cont.) Rue Jemaa Zitouna

230 Southern Tunisia 277–9 (Tunis) 81
Raiders of the Lost Ark (film) Tunis 266–8 Rue Mongi Slim
38, 39 types of 260 (Sfax) 168, 170
Rail travel 314, 315 vegetarian 261 Rue Obeid Allah el- Mahdi
Lézard Rouge 214, 220 what to eat 260–61 164
TGM trains 90, 319 see also Cafés; Food and Rue du Pasha (Tunis) 84
Rainfall 47 drink Ruspina 159
Ramadan 21, 43, 206 Ribats 149 S
restaurants during 261 Monastir 148, 158,
Sabine, Thierry 221
shopping during 282 160–61
Sabra 244
visiting during 302 Sousse 154–5
Sacrifices 110
Ras ben Sekka 146 Riu hotel chain 249
Sadiki College 61
Ras el-Aïn (Le Kef ) 230 Road travel 316–17
Safety 306–7
Ras Jebel peninsula 145, breakdowns and
in the Sahara 204, 297,
147 accidents 317
307
Ras Remel 185, 191 highway code 316
Sahara Desert 11, 26, 195,
Ras Taguerness 186, 191 maps 317 204–5
Red Lizard train petrol 317 climate 204
see Lézard Rouge road signs 316 International Festival of
Regional Museum of state of the roads 316 the Sahara (Douz) 36, 45
Popular Arts and town driving 316–17 in prehistoric times 49
Traditions (Le Kef ) 230 Roman period 49, 51–3 safety 204, 297, 307
Religion 32–3, 305 architecture 29 trips to 299
Religious buildings see Bardo museum (Tunis) see also Douz; Ksar
Cathedrals; Churches; 92–3 Ghilane; Tataouine
Medersas; Mosques; colonial system 115 The Sahel 148–76
Synagogues; Tombs and Roman and Paleo- climate 47
mausoleums; Zaouias Christian Museum getting there 150
Remada 199 (Carthage) 109, 110 history 149
Republic Day 44 see also Bulla Regia; hotels 255–6
Reqqada 244 Carthage; Chimtou; map 150–51
Restaurants 260–81 Dougga; El-Djem; Gafsa; restaurants 273–6
booking and reservations Haïdra; Kasserine; sights at a glance 151
260 Makthar; Nabeul; Oudna; Sailing 295, 299
Central Tunisia 279–81 Pupput; Sbeïtla; Port el-Kantaoui 152
Djerba and the Thuburbo Majus; Utique; St Cyprian Basilica
Medenine Area 276–7 Zaghouan (Carthage) 109
Flavours of Tunisia Roman Pools (Gafsa) 220 St Louis Cathedral
262–3 Rommel, Field-Marshal (Carthage) 12, 14, 106
Greater Tunis and Cap Erwin 62, 221 St Servus Church
Bon Peninsula 268–71 Rue des Aghlabites (Sfax) (Sbeïtla) 223
hygiene 261 168, 170 St Vincent de Paul and St
meals 304 Rue Borj Ennar (Sfax) Olive Cathedral (Tunis)
Northern Tunisia 271–3 168–9 12, 14, 29, 78–9, 86
opening hours 261 Rue el-Aghlaba (Sousse) 155 St Vitalis Basilica
prices 261 Rue de la Grande Mosquée (Sbeïtla) 222
Ramadan 261 (Sfax) 168 Salade Mechouia 260, 263
The Sahel 273–6 Rue de la Hafsia (Tunis) 84 Salade tunisienne 260
336 GENERAL INDEX
Salakta 166 Shopping (cont.) Sidi Dar ben Dhahara,

Salambo, beaches 99 where to buy 282 mausoleum (Tamerza) 215
Salt lakes 212 see also Markets; Souks Sidi Driss Hotel (Matmata)
Sand-skiing 298 Shrines, Phoenician 111 38, 199
Sand-yachting 298 Sicca Venera see Le Kef Sidi Driss Mosque (Gabès)
Sartre, Jean-Paul 100 Sidi Abd el-Juada, tomb 176
Sbeïtla 15, 66, 217, 222–3 (Jugurtha’s Table) 225 Sidi el-Ghariani, tomb
hotels 259 Sidi Abdel Kader Mosque (Kairouan) 238
restaurants 281 (Hammamet) 122 Sidi el-Hanni Fort
Schola Juvenus (Makthar) Sidi Abdel Qadir el- Djilani, (Bizerte) 145
228 tomb (Kairouan) 244 Sidi el-Kantaoui Festival
Scorpions 204, 307 Sidi Abou Zammaa (Hammam Sousse) 157
Sea travel 313 el-Balaoui, tomb Sidi el-Mezeri cemetery
Seasons 42, 44–6 (Kairouan) 240 (Monastir) 158
Seatbelts 316 Sidi Abu el-Hasan, Sidi Frej (Chergui) 176
Sebastian, George 122, 124 mausoleum (Sfax) 169 Sidi Mechrig
Villa (Hammamet) 29, 124 Sidi Ahmed ben Adjel beach 138
Sebkha Kelbia 139 190 restaurants 272
Sebkhet el-Mellah 193 Sidi Ali Azouz 235 Sidi Mehrez (patron of
Security 306–7 Sidi Ali ben Aissa 230 Tunis) 85, 161
Sejnane 128, 138, 288 Sidi Ali ben Nasrallach 244 Sidi Mehrez Mosque
Seldja Gorge 39, 220 Sidi Ali Bey 60 (Tunis) 70, 85
Sened 221 Sidi Ali el-Mekki 147 Sidi Mostari, tomb
Septimius Severus, restaurants 272 (Bizerte) 145
Emperor 52 Sidi Ali Mahjub, tomb Sidi Rais 112
Sfax 15, 31, 149, 151, (Ksour Essaf ) 166 Sidi Sahbi Mosque
168–73, 174 Sidi Amor Abbada, tomb (Kairouan) 218
in film production 39 (Kairouan) 240–41 Sidi Sheb’an, tomb
hotels 256 Sidi ben Arous, tomb (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101
medina map 169 (Tunis) 80 Sidi Thabet, tomb
music festival 42 Sidi Bou Ali, mausoleum (Tebourba) 135
restaurants 275–6 (Nefta) 213 Sidi Tuati, mausoleum
World War II 62, 169 Sidi Bou Makhlouf, tomb (Tamerza) 215
The Sheltering Sky (film) 204 (Le Kef ) 230 Sidi Youssef (Gharbi) 176
Shoes 288 Sidi Bou Mendil, tomb Sidi Youssef Mosque (Tunis)
Shopping 282–9 (Hergla) 152 72, 76
antiques 284–5 Sidi Bou Saïd 10, 12, 14, 97, Sienkiewicz, Henryk 39
art galleries 284 100–101, 104–5 The Silences of the Palace
carpets 241, 245, 284, 288 artists in 67, 102 (film) 38
craft shops 284 beaches 99 Silk 164
department stores 282 festivals 44 Silver jewellery 285
handicrafts 40–41 hotels 254 Sirocco wind 47
how to pay 282 restaurants 271 Sisfari 34
jewellery 285, 286 Sidi Bou Saïd, tomb Skanès 161
opening hours 282 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 100 beaches 153
perfume 286 Sidi Bouzid 221 Skifa el-Kahla (Mahdia) 164
shopping centres 283 Sidi Brahim, tomb Slavery
souvenirs 285 (Houmt Souk) 182 on Djerba 185, 186
what to buy 288–9 Sidi Daoud 113 slave market (Kebili) 210
GENERAL INDEX 337
Slimania Medersa (Tunis) Southern Tunisia (cont.) Suleyman the Magnificent

76 map 196–7 58
Slimen Hamza Mosque restaurants 277–9 Summer 44
(Mahdia) 165 sights at a glance 196 Summer Baths
Snacks 260 Souvenirs 285 (Thuburbo Majus) 234
Snorkelling see Diving and birdcages 101 Sunni Islam 31, 32
snorkelling dolls 157 Sunshine 47
Society 19–20 what to buy 288–9 Sunstroke 307
Soft drinks 264, 265 see also Handicrafts; Sunway Holidays 313
Soliman 114 Shopping Sweets 263
Solimena, Francesco, Dido Spanish Fort (Bizerte) 145 Swimming 294, 295
Receiving Aeneas 110 Spas hotel pools 248
Souks 34, 175 Jebel Oust 235 Symphony Music Festival
Great Souk (Tunis) 12, 14, Korbous 112–13 (El-Djem) 291
72, 77 Special interest holidays Synagogues, El-Ghriba
Houmt Souk 13, 182 313 (Djerba) 13, 42, 184,
Kairouan 239 Speed limits 316 187, 279
shopping 282, 283, Spices 115, 202, 289 Syracuse 115
286–7 Spielberg, Steven 38, 39
Souk ar-Rab Sponges 131, 176, 288 T
(Houmt Souk) 182 Sponge Festival Tabarka 58, 66, 126, 127,
Souk ar-Rabi (Sfax) 170 (Zarzis) 44 130
Souk el-Attarine (Tunis) Sport 294–5 Around Tabarka tour
12, 73, 80 see also Outdoor activities 132–3
Souk el-Berka (Tunis) 76 Spring 42 coastline 27
Souk et-Trouk (Tunis) Spring Festival (Sousse) 42 diving festivals 44, 45
12, 72, 76 Square of the Winds diving and snorkelling
Souk des Etoffes (Sfax) (Dougga) 233 296
170 Star Wars (film) 13, 15, 25, hotels 255
see also Markets; 38–9, 195, 199 jazz festival 44, 291
Shopping Ksar Haddada 198, 199 restaurants 272–3
Soups 260 Matmata 176, 199 Tajine 263
Sousse 10, 11, 14–15, 149, Obiwan Kenobi’s house Tamerza 11, 13, 15, 39, 66,
154–7, 162–3 185 214–15
beaches 153 Tataouine 198 festival of the mountain
catacombs 55 Steles 171 oases 42
hotels 256 Makthar 228 hotels 214–15, 258
kasbah 31 Still Life With Fish (Dhahak) restaurants 278
medina map 155 102 Tanit (goddess) 114, 117,
restaurants 276 Stomach upsets 306 124
spring festival 42 Storks 138 Tanit and Baal Hammon
World War II 62, 154 Student travellers 303 sanctuary (Carthage) 109,
Southern Tunisia 194–215 Sufetula see Sbeïtla 110
A Week in the South 11, 13 Sufism 100, 124, 213 Tapestries 288
architecture 28 in Le Kef 230 Tarantulas 307
character 195 marabouts 161 Tataouine 13, 198
climate 47 in Nefta 213 festivals 42
getting there 197 Qadiriyya group 244 hotels 258
hotels 258–9 zaouias 31 restaurants 278
338 GENERAL INDEX
Tattoos, Berber 225 Theatre 291, 293 Tombs and mausoleums

Taxis festivals 44 (cont.)
louages 315 Theatres Sidi Bou Ali (Nefta) 213
to/from airports 312–13 Planet Oasis (Tozeur) 212 Sidi Bou Makhlouf
Tunis 318 Roman 29 (Le Kef ) 230
Tea 264 Roman theatre Sidi Bou Mendil
Tebourba 135 (Haïdra) 225 (Hergla) 152
Téboursouk Roman theatre Sidi Bou Saïd
hotels 259 (Kasserine) 224 (Sidi Bou Saïd) 100
restaurants 281 Roman theatres Sidi Brahim
Telephone services 310 (Utique) 146 (Houmt Souk) 182
Television 310–11 Théâtre Municipal Sidi Dar ben Dhahara
Tell region 27, 220 (Tunis) 12, 86, 291 (Tamerza) 215
Temperatures 47, 302 Theft 306 Sidi el-Ghariani
Temples, Roman Thibarine 265 (Kairouan) 238
Dougga 232 Thomas, Philippe 220 Sidi Mostari (Bizerte) 145
Makthar 228 Thomson Holidays 313 Sidi Sheb’an
Temple of Apollo Three Medersas (Tunis) (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101
(Bulla Regis) 136 73, 76 Sidi Tuati (Tamerza) 215
Temple of Caelestis Thuburbo Majus 234 Tomb of the Unknown
(Dougga) 219 Thysdrus see El-Djem Soldier (Monastir) 158
Temple des Eaux fountain Tidjani 215 Tourbet of Aziza Othmana
(Zaghouan) 235 Tiles, ceramic 32 (Tunis) 73, 80
Temple of Juno Caelestis Tipping 282 Tourbet el-Bey (Tunis)
(Dougga) 226–7 Tlatli, Moufida 38 82–3
Temple of Jupiter, Juno Toilets 306 Tourbet of Hammouda
and Minerva (Thuburbo Tolerance Edict 54 Pasha (Tunis) 80
Majus) 234 Tombs and mausoleums see also Cemeteries;
Temple of Mercury Aziza Othmana (Tunis) Marabouts; Necropolis;
(Thuburbo Majus) 234 73, 80 Tophets; Zaouias
Temple to Aesculapius Habib Bourguiba Tophets
and Hygiei (Jebel Oust) Mausoleum (Monastir) Carthage 109, 110
235 15, 158 Makthar 228
Tents Hammouda Pasha Toujane 190
Bedouin 202, 205 (Tunis) 80 Toulon-Bizerte yacht race 44
Berber 206, 212 Mausoleum of the Flavii Tounes, Nidaa 63
staying in Bedouin 248, (Kasserine) 224 Tour operators 313
250 Punic mausoleum Tourbets see Tombs and
Terracotta figures, (Makthar) 228 mausoleums
Phoenician 111 Sidi Abd el-Juada Tourism 24–5
Testour 127, 135 (Jugurtha’s Table) 225 Tourist information 251,
International Malouf Music Sidi Abou Zammaa el- 290, 303
Festival 44, 135, 291 Balaoui (Kairouan) 240 Tourist zones 25, 250
Textiles 24, 287 Sidi Abu el-Hasan (Sfax) Towers see Castles and
Berber 36 169 fortifications
see also Carpets Sidi Ali Mahjub Town Hall (Sfax) 170
TGM trains 90, 319 (Ksour Essaf ) 166 Towns
Thalassotherapy 298, 299 Sidi Amor Abbada driving in 316–17
Thapsus, battle of 158 (Kairouan) 240–41 traditional Arab 174–5
GENERAL INDEX 339
Tozeur 10, 11, 13, 15, Transport (cont.) Tunisia (cont.)

210, 212 rail travel 314, 315 economy 24
driving tour 210–11 road map of Tunisia see film-makers in 25,
film production 38, 39, inside back cover 38–9
210 road travel 316–17 foreign affairs 23
hotels 258–9 The Sahel 150 handicrafts 40–41
International Oases sea travel 313 history 49–63
Festival 45 Southern Tunisia 197 independence 22
restaurants 278–9 Tunis 71, 318–19 Islam in 32–3
Trade routes, ancient 224, Treasury Building landscape and wildlife
228 (Utique) 146 26–7
Traditional shows 290 Tribes, Saharan 205 map 16–17
Traditions 20–21, 34–5, Troglodyte homes politics 22–3
304–5 Jugurtha’s Table 225 population 19
Dar Jellouli Museum pit houses 28, 38, 176 society 19–20
(Sfax) 172–3 Sened 221 tourism 24–5
Guellala Museum of staying in 248 traditions 20–21, 34–5
Popular Traditions 186 Tuna fishing 113 women in 23–4
Museum of Arts and Tunis 14, 68–93 Tunisian Constitutional
Popular Traditions 2 Days in Tunis 12 Party see Destour
(Houmt Souk) 183 beaches 99 Turki, Yahia 22, 102
Museum of Popular Arts cinema 291 Turks, Ottoman 57–8
and Traditions (Gabès) 176 climate 47 Tyre 50, 115
Museum of Popular Arts getting around 71,
U
and Traditions 318–19
(Sousse) 156 history 59, 62, 69 Ulysses Festival
Museum of Popular Arts hotels 252–3 (Houmt Souk) 44
and Traditions map: the Medina street- Ulysses and the Sirens
(Tozeur) 212 by-street 72–3 (mosaic) 229
Regional Museum of map: town centre 70–71 Umm et-Turkia Mosque
Popular Arts and Medina Festival 46, 290 (El-May) 184
Traditions (Le Kef ) 230 nightlife 291 Upenna 157
Trains see Rail travel restaurants 266–8 Uthina see Oudna
Trajan, Emperor 220, 228 Utique 10, 14, 127, 146
sights at a glance 71
Trajan’s Arch (Makthar) 228 Roman capital 51, 52
Ville Nouvelle architecture
Trajan’s Bridge (near Béja) 87 V
135 see also Greater Tunis Valerian, Emperor 109
Trams 318 Tunis-Carthage Airport 312, Vandals 53, 106
Transport 312–19, 312–19 313 Vegetarians 261
air travel 312–13, 315 Tunisair 312, 313 Veils see Hijab
buses 315 Tunisia Venus, Temple of
Central Tunisia 219 architecture 28–31 (Makthar) 228
Djerba and the Medenine area 16 Villas, Roman
Area 181 arts 21–2 Bulla Regis 136–7
Greater Tunis and Cap calendar of events 42–6 Carthage 12, 14, 107,
Bon Peninsula 97 character of 19 120–21
louages 315 Christian Tunisia 54–5 Dougga 233
Northern Tunisia 129 climate 47 Villa de la Volière
overland travel 313 culture 20–21 (Carthage) 107
340 GENERAL INDEX
Ville Nouvelle (Tunis) 81, 86, Wildlife (cont.) Zaouias (cont.)

90–93 Ichkeul National Park Sidi Abdel Qadir el- Djilani
architecture 28, 87 140–41 (Kairouan) 244
development of 60 Saharan 204 Sidi Ali Mahjub
Vincci 249 Tunisian birds 139 (Ksour Essaf ) 166
Virgil 110, 229 see also Birdwatching; Sidi Amor Abbada
Virgil and the Muses National parks; Zoos (Kairouan) 240–41
(mosaic) 229 Windsurfing 295, 296 Sidi ben Arous (Tunis) 80
Visas 302 Wine Sidi Bou Makhlouf
Volleyball 295 festivals 45 (Le Kef ) 230
W production 124, 127 Sidi Brahim
what to drink 265
Wahbis 184 (Houmt Souk) 182
Winter 46
Walking Sidi el-Ghariani
Winter Baths
tours in Tunis 76–7 (Kairouan) 238
(Thuburbo Majus) 234
in Tunis 319 Sidi Sahbi (Kairouan) 240
Women
see also Hiking Sidi Sheb’an
Bedouin 205
Walls (Sidi Bou Saïd) 101
Berber 36–7
defensive (Ribat, Tebourba 135
position of 23–4
Monastir) 160 Zaouia Zakkak
segregation of 173
Ksour 200 (Sousse) 155
travellers 306
medina walls see also Cemeteries;
Women’s Day 44
(Kairouan) 238 Marabouts; Tombs and
Woodwork 41, 289
medina walls mausoleums
World War I 60
(Sousse) 156 Zarbia carpets 40
World War II 61, 62, 144
in traditional Arab towns Zarziha Rock (Korbous) 112
Battle of Kasserine
174 Zarzis 178, 188–9, 190, 193
224
Water 264 hotels 257
cemetery, Haffouz 244
Water buffalo 141
Le Kef 230 restaurants 277
Water parks 292
monument, Place des Sponge Festival 44
Acqua Palace (Port
Martyrs (Sousse) 154 Zeffirelli, Franco 39, 160
el-Kantaoui) 152
Sidi Bouzid 221 Zembra, island of 113, 231
Water sports 296
Wright, Frank Lloyd 124 Zembretta, island of 113, 231
Waterfalls, Tamerza 214,
Zirid dynasty 57
215 Y ceramics 118
Waxworks, Guellala
Yachting see Sailing coins 244
Museum of Popular
Yasmine Hammamet 123, Zitouna Mosque
Traditions 186
124 (Kairouan) 241
Weaving 287
marina 153 Zitouna theological
Kairouan carpets 245
Youssef, Sidi 76 university 60
Weddings 34–5
Youth hostels 250, 251
Wells 207 Zitouni, Ali 294
Bir Barouta (Kairouan) Z Zoos
238–9 Zaafrane 211 Belvedere Park (Tunis) 91,
Wheat Festival (Béja) 45 Zaghouan 235 292
Whirling dervishes 213 Zaouias 30, 31 Park Friguia (Bou Ficha)
Wildlife 26–7 Bizerte 145 157, 292
coral reef 131, 296 The Sahel 149 Tozeur 212
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 341
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people whose Touristique Dar Houidi, Nefta; La Grotte, Souk Erebaa, Sousse; Military
contributions and assistance have made the preparation of this Museum of the Mareth Line, Mareth; Musée Dar Essid, Sousse; Musée
book possible. Guellala, Djerba; Ocean-Photos (Carlos Minguell); Scoop Organization
(Mourad Mathari); Tunisair in Warsaw; ZOOM s.c.
Publisher
Douglas Amrine Picture Credits
a – above; b – below/bottom; c – centre; f – far; l – left; r – right; t – top.
Publishing Manager
Kate Poole 4corners: Reinhard Schmid 78-9; Alamy Images: age fotostock 257tr,
267tr; Charles O. Cecil 14tr, 266bl; Gary Cook 86cl; Ian Dagnall 276bl;
Managing Editor dbimages 12tc, 272tr; Giulia Fiori 14bl; Ainara Garcia 156br; Joan Gravell
Vicki Ingle 268tl; Blaine Harrington III 226-7, 259br; Hemis 261br; Simon Horswell
262cla; Iconotec 270br; Michael Kilnec 91tr; Robert Harding World
Senior Editor Imagery 10cla, 12br; IMAGEiN 263tl; FJTB Media Creation, Inc. 274tr;
Jacky Jackson rank Miesnikowicz 2-3; Simon Reddy 269bl; Norbert Scanella 94;
Stockfolio®; Gordon Sinclair 271tr; Alexey Solodov 256br; Keren Su/
Cartography China Span; El Ali Resto & Cafe Culturel: 267bl; El Asfour: 260bl, 274bl;
Uma Battacharya, Mohammad Hassan, Jasneet Kaur, Casper Morris AWL Images: Peter Adams 64-5; Walter Bibikow 148; Katjia Kreder 178,
188-9; La Chambre Bleue: 249br, 252br; Chems: 255br; Corbis: 32–3,
DTP 32tc; 38cla, 39tr, 43cla, 43cra, 43clb, 50tl, 51tr, 52tc, 53dp, 54cla, 57tc,
Vinod Harish, Vincent Kurien, Azeem Siddiqui, Conrad Van Dyk 57crb, 59tc, 59crb, 59bl, 60tr, 60clb, 60bl, 60br, 61clb, 61br, 62tr, 62clb,
63cra, 85cr, 106b, 110bl, 147br, 177b, 203bl, 213bl, 224bl, 295bl, 295br;
Consultant Shean Adey 141crb; Theo Allofs 141cra; Philip de Bay 33br; Nial Benvie
Mike Gerrard 139clb; Yann Arthus-Bertrand 200tr, 233t; Bettmann 158clb; Michael de
Boys 43br; Margareth Courtney-Clarke 36tr, 36bl, 37bl; Nigel J. Dennis
Factchecker 139cla, 139cl; Bernard and Catherine Desjeux 46tr, 118–19, 223br; Rick
David Bondi Ergenbright 42cl, 44br, 264tr; D. Robert Franz 139bl, 141tl, 231bl;
Stephen Frink 131bl; Lowell Georgia 24bl; Klaus Honal 27ca; Erick
Proofreader Hosking 139br; Peter Johnson 140clb; Wolfgang Kaehler 185c; Steve
Stewart Wild Kaufman 231cr; Douglas Kirkland 39bc; Katja Kreder/JAI 251tr; David
Lees 50cr; Michael S. Lewis 203cr; Peter Lillie 231cl; Araldo de Luca 48;
Indexer Christine Osborne 114tl; Chris Parker/Design Pics 277bl; photocuisine/
Helen Peters Roulier/Turiot/ 263c; Fulvio Roiter 37cra; Hans Georg Roth 32bl, 45br,
92cla; 177crb, 225t; Kevin Schafer 26c; Michael T. Sedman 298tl;
Additional Contributors Jonathan Selkowitz 99bc; Michael Setboun 187cla, 187clb, 187cr, 187br;
Sylvie Franquet, Mike Gerrard Sean Sexton 60ca; William Thompson 203cla; Roger Tidman 140cla,
231cra; Ruggero Vanni 31cr; Tim De Waele 294cla; Patrick Ward 36cl,
Additional Photography 36–7; John Watkins 139cra, 140tr; Kurt-Michael Westermann 177cra,
Ian O’Leary, Roger Mapp 177cl; Nik Wheeler 153br, 187bl; Roger Wood 33bl, 37tl, 50cb, 58crb,
224cr, 235c; Inge Yspeert 42br, 195b, 207br; Dar Abderrahman
Additional Picture Research Zarrouk: 280tl; Dar Boumakhlouf: 261tl; Dar Enesma: 248cla, 253tr;
Rachel Barber, Ellen Root Dar Hi: 258tl; Delice Resto: 277tr; Dreamstime.com: Adisa 246-7, 300-1;
Marcin Ciesielski/Sylwia Cisek 18, 162-3; Daniel M. Cisilino 15tr, 144br;
Design and Editorial Assistance George Cleminte 120-1; Gelia 142-3; Ioana Grecu 149bc; Igor Groshev
Nadia Bonomally, Simon Davis, Surya Deogun, Nicola Erdpresser, 13br; Lukasz Janyst 208-9, 236-7; Nataliya Hora 104-5; Danilo Mongiello
Camilla Gersh, Susanne Hillen, Claire Jones, Lesley Khedhiri, 88-9; Natalya Sidorova 15bl; Piotr Sikora 68; Witr 11tr; Flickr.com:
Carly Madden, Helen Partington, Lucy Richards, Susie Peachey, Citizen59br; pixpeeper 279tr; Robert Harding Picture Library: Stefan
Sands Publishing Solutions, Conrad Van Dyk Auth 13tl; Targa 93cb; Piotr Kiedrowski: 81bc, 101c; Andrzej Lisowski:
33tr, 39cl, 45tr, 46bl, 82br, 102cra, 102br, 146tl, 147tr, 147ca, 207bl, 213br,
Special Assistance 284cr, 290cla, 290crb; Grzegorz Micuła: 5cl, 20c, 23cr, 26clb, 152br,
Wiedza and Życie would like to thank the following people and 183cr/tr, 202bc, 210b, 264cla, 316cla; Carlos Minguell: 131tl, 131tr,
organizations for their help in the preparation of this guide: 131cl, 131cr, 131br; Izabella Mościcka: 97crb, 158cb, 296bc, 310cl, 311tl,
Faical Aouni; Zbigniew Dybowski, Biuro Podróży Kredytowa 2, Warszawa; 312cr, 315tl; Robert G. Pasieczny: 23br; Le Royal: 260cla, 273br;
Abdelfettach Gaida, Raouf Ghazzai, Odyssée Resort, Zarzis; Pawel Kulesza, Socopa: 291bc Tunisair: 312bl; La Villa Bleue: 249tl, 254tl.
ONTT in Warsaw; Joanna Nowowiejska-Moskal, ONTT in Warsaw;
Startours, Hammam-Sousse; Katarzyna Wierzba, ONTT in Warsaw. Front Endpapers: Alamy Images: Norbert Scanella Rtr; Stockfolio® Lbr;
Keren Su/China Lcla; AWL Images: Walter Bibikow Rcr; Katja Kreder Rcr;
The Publisher would also like to thank all the relevant individuals and Dreamstime.com: Piotr Sikora Lca.
organizations for their permission to reproduce photographs of their
property and for allowing the use of photographs from their archives. Jacket: Front and spine - AWL Images: Peter Adams.
Bijouterie Bel Hadj Younes Frères, Midoun; Bijouterie du Musée
el-Kobba, Sousse; Corbis/Agencja Free in Warsaw (Maciej Sztyk, Łukasz All other images Dorling Kindersley
Wyrzykowski, Aleksandra Żymełka); Centre Culturel d’Animation For further information see: www.dkimages.com
Special Editions of DK Travel Guides To find out more, please contact:

DK Travel Guides can be purchased in bulk in the United States specialsales@dk.com
quantities at discounted prices for use in
in the UK travelguides@uk.dk.com
promotions or as premiums. We are also able
to offer special editions and personalized in Canada specialmarkets@dk.com
jackets, corporate imprints, and excerpts from in Australia PCorporatesales@
all of our books, tailored specifically to meet penguinrandomhouse.com.au
your own needs.
342 GLOSSARY
Glossary
Abbasids: Rulers of the Arab Empire prior to any activity such as meals fula: a triangular tattoo placed on a
from AD 749–1258. or travel. It is also a popular Berber woman’s chin.
Aghlabids: Ninth-century ornamental motif on ceramics gargotte: small, inexpensive
Arab dynasty that ruled Tunisia and in architecture, etc. restaurant serving basic food.
from Kairouan. borj: turret or tower that is set in the ghorfa: originally a ksar’s granary.
Aisha: the third and favourite wife walls of fortified houses and castles. The cells, built cylindrically around
of the Prophet Mohammed, who boukha: a clear alcoholic spirit made a courtyard, later began to serve as
unsuccessfully opposed the fourth from figs. dwellings.
caliph, Ali. brik: Tunisian snack, a kind of pastry. guetiffa: thick-pile carpets used by
Al-Hasan and Al-Husayn: sons burnoose: hooded cloak made of Berber tribes.
of Ali, revered as Shia martyrs. thick wool, worn by Arab men. hadith: tale of deeds and teachings
Ali: Ali ibn Abi Talib, the fourth caliph: Muslim chief, title desig- of the Prophet Mohammed as
orthodox caliph, cousin and son- nating Mohammed’s successor. reported by his companions; source
in-law of the Prophet Mohammed, capitol: Roman town’s principal of religious knowledge for Muslims.
husband of his daughter Fatima. temple. hadj: pilgrimage to Mecca, one of
He originated the greatest split in caravanserai: see fondouk. the five pillars of Islam.
the history of Islam – into Sunni chamsa: hand of Fatima – a talisman hamada: rocky desert.
and Shia Muslims. According to the that symbolizes five pillars of faith, hammam: public steam bath.
Shia tradition he was endowed five daily prayers, five holy nights, etc. Hanefite: one of four schools of
with spiritual gifts and the power chechia: red cap with silk tassle. orthodox Sunni Islam.
to perform miracles. To Shias he is chicha: hookah or hubble-bubble harissa: spicy sauce made of dried
virtually god incarnate. pipe used for smoking tobacco. red chillies, garlic, spices, olive oil
Allah: the highest and the only chorba: delicious soup with noodles, and salt.
god in the Muslim religion, the normally made of chicken stock. henna: a dye obtained from privet
creator of the world and its people. chott: salt lake or marshland. leaves which is used by the Berbers
He is believed to be omnipotent, corsairs: pirates, active on the North for marking the skin.
omnipresent and merciful. He African coast from the 16th to the hijab: headscarf worn by Muslim
has 99 names by which he may 19th century. women to cover their hair in the
be addressed. couscous: a dish made of steamed presence of strangers.
alloucha: carpets produced in semolina that is served as the main hijra: emigration of Mohammed
beige and brown, or black and course with boiled meat, and his early followers from
white colours with a medallion vegetables and spices. Mecca to Medina in AD 622.
pattern in a shape of a stylized dar: house, palace or residence. It is also the name of the
octagon with floral design. dawwar: a circle of tents with which Muslim calendar.
Almoravids: Berber dynasty from tribesmen surrounded their houch: courtyard of a troglodyte
Morocco that invaded Tunisia in chieftain’s abode, creating a mini- house carved in soft rock.
the 12th century. state. It was sovereign and Husaynids: dynasty that ruled
Baal Hammon: the most autonomous. Tunisia from 1705 to 1957.
important god in the Phoenician deglet ennour: a variety of dates. Ibadites: Offshoot of Kharajite sect
(later Punic) pantheon, often diwan: sultan’s privy council in the found on Djerba and also in parts
identified with Saturn. former Turkish state, alternatively of Algeria.
bab: gate or door. spelled divan. Ifriqiyya: term used to describe
balgha: traditional slippers with djellaba: long, loose garment Africa by the Romans.
flattened toe-ends. worn by both Tunisian men and imam: a learned Muslim cleric,
baraka: divine blessing passed women; also known as jibba. prophet and religious leader of
down from parent to child; the driba: an outer entrance room in a the Shia, caliph, spiritual and lay
power to work miracles, may be dar, used for receiving callers. leader of Islam.
obtained by pilgrimage. emir: governor or military leader. Isa: Islamic name for Jesus Christ,
basilica: Roman administration erg: expanse of desert sand. who is regarded by Muslims as a
building, early Christian church. Fatima: Mohammed’s only daughter noble and honourable messenger
Berbers: non-Arab, indigenous and the wife of Ali. In the Muslim sent to reveal the coming of the
inhabitants of Tunisia with their tradition she originated the Fatimid Prophet Mohammed.
own distinctive language, culture dynasty. Fatima is the subject of Jamaa mosque: from the Arabic
and customs. many legends which have led to a “jam”, meaning to “gather things”.
bey: title of a provincial governor in belief in her protective powers. Usually the Great Mosque, it was
the Ottoman Empire. During the Fatimids: Muslim dynasty founded initially the only mosque with a
Ottoman era it was used by the by Fatima that replaced the minbar.
Tunisian rulers. Aghlabids and ruled Tunisia from jirak: a strong tobacco mix smoked
bir: well. AD 909 to 1171. in a chicha.
bismillah: a popular Muslim fondouk: a type of inn, also kamounia: an aromatic meat stew.
expression – “Bismi Allah ar-rahmani known as a caravanserai, that was kasbah: castle, fortress.
ar-rahim” (In the name of Allah used as a hotel by journeying Khadija: the first wife of the
the Beneficient, the Merciful). merchant caravans. Prophet Mohammed.
Every sura or chapter of the Koran fouta: cotton towel provided in Kharijites: early sect of Islam which
begins with it. Uttered by Muslims a hammam. won Berber support.
GLOSSARY 343
khlela: a Berber pin made of mosque: Arab place of worship and sirat: in Arab literature, a knightly
silver; often believed to have a house of prayer. It usually consists episode recounting historic
magic properties. of a courtyard, a minaret and a events, fantasy or legendary tales
khutba: traditional sermon prayer hall. and romances.
preached on Fridays by the imam. muedhim (muezzin): person who souk: marketplace or covered bazaar
Koran: the holy book of Islam. calls the faithful to prayer from the that is organized into areas
koubba: a dome that often covers minaret. In the early days of Islam according to the goods on sale.
the tomb of a marabout. the calls were made from the roofs Sufi: ascetic sect of Islam which
ksar: fortified Berber village. of mosques. places an emphasis on spiritual
louage: shared taxi. mukarnas: a distinctive ornamental development rather than on a
Maghreb: literally “west”, this term is element of the interior design in study of the Koran.
used to describe the part of Africa Muslim architecture (in the shape Suleyman: in Muslim tradition
that includes Morocco, Algeria, of a stalactite). Suleyman is endowed with magic
Tunisia, Libya and Mauritania. mullah: a Muslim theologian and powers; he knows the language
mahari: camelback expedition to scholar. Also a teacher, and an of birds, is able to control the
the desert lasting several days. interpreter of religious law and wind, and rules over the earth and
Those taking part often sleep in Islamic doctrines. air spirits.
Bedouin tents or ghorfas. Muradids: hereditary line of beys Sunni: the main branch of Islam,
mahdi: in the Arab tradition “the that ruled Tunisia during the created by followers of the
One who is led by God” – a spiritual 17th century. Ummayyad caliphate.
leader endowed with power to Musa: The Arabic name for Moses. sura: verse of the Koran.
bring about religious revival, and The Koran presents him as one of Tanit: goddess in the Punic
restore order. many predecessors of Mohammed. pantheon associated with the cult
Malekite: sect of orthodox Sunni oued: river that is often dry. of Baal Hammon. She is also the
Islam founded in the 8th century. Phoenicians: seafaring and trading patron of Carthage.
malouf: Tunisian folk music. nation that dominated the tesserae: small pieces of brick, glass
marabout: Islamic holy man and Mediterranean in the 1st century or marble smoothed round the
also his place of burial. BC; the founders of Carthage. edges and used for laying mosaics.
mashrabiyya: wooden latticework Protectorate: period of French tourbet: mausoleum.
panel used in the windows of control over Tunisia from washm: the first tattoo given to
mosques and houses. 1881–1956. a child soon after birth. It is
medersa: residential Islamic school. Punic: Phoenician culture. usually placed on the cheeks or
A type of Muslim college that is qibla: the direction (towards the on the forehead.
often built around a courtyard and Al-Kaaba temple in Mecca) in which wikala: a stately caravanserai for
attached to a mosque. Muslims turn when saying their wealthy merchants.
medina: traditional Arab town or a prayers; in mosques it is usually zakat: the giving of alms to the poor,
town’s oldest part. indicated by the mihrab. one of the five pillars of Islam.
Medina: also known as Madinat Ramadan: the ninth month of the zarbia: knotted carpets with
an-Nabi (Town of the Prophet), or Muslim lunar calendar (numbering geometric patterns, produced
Madinat el-Munawwara (City of 354 days and eight hours). Also a in a mixture of red, green and
Light). It is situated 300 km (186 period of fasting. blue colours.
miles) north of Mecca. The Prophet reg: stony desert. zaouia: a tomb for a good man, or a
and his followers found refuge ribat: fortified Muslim monastery building – a dwelling place of
there after fleeing Mecca. that is surrounded by defensive people who devote their lives to
melya: an attire worn by Berber walls including watchtowers. Inside spiritual practices, a sanctuary of
women, consisting of a draped is the prayer hall (and sometimes a Sufi mystics.
length of cloth held by a belt and mosque).
fastened at the shoulder. salat: obligatory prayer said five
menzel: a traditional fortified times a day. It is one of the five
farm compound. pillars of Islam.
mergoum: lightweight carpets of sa’alik: knight errant of the desert,
Berber origin with vivid colours and an exile expelled by the tribes. They
geometric patterns. congregated into groups in order
mihrab: niche found in a mosque to survive.
that points in the direction of saime: fast during Ramadan, one of
Mecca, and therefore prayer. the five pillars of Islam.
minaret: tower of a mosque from sebkha: salt flat.
which the muezzin calls the faithful serir: stony desert.
to prayer. shahada: a proclamation of faith,
minbar: pulpit in a mosque, from one of the five pillars of Islam.
which the imam delivers his homily shheelee: warm or hot sirocco
during Friday prayers. wind.
Mohammed: (c.570–632), the Shia: the smaller branch of Islam.
messenger of Islam and creator of Its followers regard Ali as the true
the Arab state. He experienced his imam.
first revelations at the age of about sidi: Muslim leader, sir. This title
40 (AD 610). These are collected is accorded to a Muslim of noble
together in the Koran. birth or outstanding merits.
344 PHRASE BOOK
Phrase Book
Pronunciation free, unoccupied libre leebr
free, no charge gratuit grah-twee
ou as the “oo” in “good” or as a “w”
ch as the “sh” in “shy”
i usually as the “ee” in “feet”’ Making a Telephone Call
I’d like to place a Je voudrais faire zhuh voo-dreh fehr
In Emergency long-distance call. un interurbain. uñ añter-oorbañ
I’ll try again Je rappelerai zhuh rapel-
Help! Au secours! oh sekoor
later. plus tard. eray ploo tar
Stop! Arrêtez! aret-ay
Call a Appelez un apuh-lay uñ Can I leave a Est-ce que je peux es-keh zhuh puh
doctor! médecin! medsañ message? laisser un message? leh-say uñ mehsazh
Call an Appelez une apuh-lay oon Hold on. Ne quittez pas, nuh kee-tay pah
ambulance! ambulance! oñboo-loñs s’il vous plaît. seel voo play
Call the Appelez la apuh-lay lah Could you speak Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo par-
police! police! poh-lees up a little please? un peu plus fort? lay uñ puh ploo for
Call the fire Appelez les apuh-lay leh local call la communication komoonikah-
department! pompiers! poñ-peeyay locale syoñ low-kal
Where is the Où est le téléphone oo ay luh tehlehfon
nearest telephone? le plus proche? luh ploo prosh Shopping
Where is the Où est l’hőpital oo ay l’opeetal luh How much C’est combien say kom-byañ
nearest hospital? le plus proche? ploo prosh does this cost? s’il vous plaît? seel voo play
I would like … je voudrais… zhuh voo-dray
Communication Essentials Do you have? Est-ce que vous avez? es-kuh voo zavay
Yes Oui wee I’m just Je regarde zhuh ruhgar
No Non noñ looking. seulement. suhlmoñ
Please S’il vous plaît seel voo play Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo
Thank you Merci mer-see credit cards? acceptez les cartes zaksept-ay leh kart
Excuse me Excusez-moi exkoo-zay mwah de crédit? duh kreh-dee
Hello Bonjour boñzhoor Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo
Goodbye Au revoir oh ruh-vwar travellers’ acceptez les zaksept-ay leh
Good night Bonsoir boñ-swar cheques? chèques de voyage? shek duh vwayazh
Morning Le matin matañ What time do A quelle heure vous ah kel urr voo
Afternoon L’après-midi l’apreh-meedee you open/close? êtes ouvert/fermé? zet oo-ver/fer-may
Evening Le soir swar This one. Celui-ci. suhl-wee-see
Yesterday Hier eeyehr That one. Celui-là. suhl-wee-lah
Today Aujourd’hui oh-zhoor-dwee expensive cher shehr
Tomorrow Demain duhmañ cheap pas cher, pah shehr,
Here Ici ee-see bon marché boñ mar-shay
There Là lah size, clothes la taille tye
What? Quel, quelle? kel, kel
When? Quand? koñ Types of Shops
Why? Pourquoi? poor-kwah
Where? Où? oo bakery la boulangerie booloñ-zhuree
bank la banque boñk
chemist la pharmacie farmah-see
Useful Phrases grocery l’alimentation alee-moñta-syoñ
How are you? Comment allez-vous? kom-moñ talay voo hairdresser le coiffeur kwafuhr
Very well, Très bien, treh byañ, market le marché marsh-ay
thank you. merci. mer-see newsstand le magasin de maga-zañ duh
Pleased to Enchanté de faire oñshoñ-tay duh fehr journaux zhoor-no
meet you. votre connaissance. votr kon-ay-sans post office la poste pohst
See you soon. A bientőt. byañ-toh supermarket le supermarché soo pehr-marshay
That’s fine Voilà qui est parfait vwalah kee ay parfay tobacconist le tabac tabah
Where is/are…? Où est/sont…? oo ay/soñ
How far Combien de kom-byañ duh keelo-
is it to…? kilomètres d’ici à…? metr d’ee-see ah
Sightseeing
Which Quelle est la kel ay lah deer- bus station la gare routière gahr roo-tee-yehr
way to…? direction pour…? ek-syoñ poor library la bibliothèque beebleeo-tek
Do you speak Parlez-vous par-lay voo museum le musée moo-zay
English? anglais? oñg-lay tourist les renseignements roñsayn-moñ too-
I don’t Je ne zhuh nuh kom- information touristiques, le rees-teek, sandee-
understand. comprends pas. proñ pah office syndicat d’initiative ka d’eenee-syateev
Could you Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo par-lay train station la gare (SNCF) gahr (es-en-say-ef )
speak slowly moins vite s’il mwañ veet seel public holiday jour férié zhoor fehree-ay
please? vous plaît? voo play
I’m sorry. Excusez-moi. exkoo-zay mwah Staying in a Hotel
Do you have a Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo-zavay
Useful Words vacant room? avez une chambre? oon shambr
big grand groñ double room, la chambre à deux shambr ah duh
small petit puh-tee with double bed personnes, avec pehr-son avek un
hot chaud show un grand lit gronñ lee
cold froid frwah twin room la chambre à shambr ah
good bon boñ deux lits duh lee
bad mauvais moh-veh single room la chambre à shambr ah
enough assez assay une personne oon pehr-son
well bien byañ room with a la chambre avec shambr avek
open ouvert oo-ver bath, shower salle de bains, sal duh bañ,
closed fermé fer-meh une douche oon doosh
left gauche gohsh I have a J’ai fait une zhay fay oon
right droit drwah reservation. réservation. rayzehrva-syoñ
straight ahead tout droit too drwah
near près preh
far loin lwañ
Eating Out
up en haut oñ oh Have you Avez-vous une avay-voo oon
down en bas oñ bah got a table? table libre? tahbl leebr
early de bonne heure duh bon urr I want to Je voudrais zhuh voo-dray
late en retard oñ ruh-tar reserve a table. réserver une table. rayzehr-vay oon
entrance l’entrée l’on-tray tahbl
exit la sortie sor-tee The bill L’addition s’il l’adee-syoñ seel
toilet les toilettes, les WC twah-let, vay-see please. vous plaît. voo play

1465428615tunisia PDF

Transféré par

Informations du document

Titre original

Copyright

Formats disponibles

Partager ce document

Partager ou intégrer le document

Options de partage

Avez-vous trouvé ce document utile ?

Ce contenu est-il inapproprié ?

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

1465428615tunisia PDF

Transféré par

Droits d'auteur :

Formats disponibles

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

For Dorling Kindersley

Printed and bound in China Introducing

ISSN 1542-1554 The History of Tunisia 48

Front cover image: A section of a traditional Ksar in Tataouine

The information in this

Travel Information 312

General Index 320

Road Map of Tunisia

Tunisia Region Travellers’ Needs

Sport in Tunisia 294

Activities for Visitors 296 Colourful vegetable stall at Menzel

Italian-inﬂuenced and richly decorated

Northern Tunisia 126

The Sahel 148

Djerba and the

Southern Tunisia 194

Central Tunisia 216 A typical desert oasis

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

70 TUNISIA REGION BY REGION TUNIS 71 Tunis

Two worlds are side by side in the centre of

NUE l Main Market 4 Sidi Youssef Mosque

and tourist information offices are

AV E N Museums and Historic Buildings

9 Tourbet of Aziza Othmana

f Sidi Mehrez Mosque

The most convenient way of

exploring Tunis is on foot.

RU E RUE crowded, but are useful for

TGM Train Station

500 metres (550 yards) reaching sites further out,

RGU The TGM train’s main station

Sights at a Glance lists the

RUE SAIDA PLACE DE LA BAKR

JAR SB VICTOIRE ABOU

RUE HED Hached

A locator map shows the

area of the Street-by-Street

Street-by-Street: The Medina 8 Hammouda

reference the major many mysterious and colourful doorways

sights are numbered on an axis formed by the Great Mosque

and located on the

The National Library contains

over two million volumes. It is

AR located at the heart of

L A the medina, in the

for exploring K A former military

A suggested route for a walk is 4 Sidi Youssef Mosque

marked with a red dotted line. style minaret in the E

medina (1616) and has traded in perfumes,

is crowned with a incense, henna, candles

balustrade and a and herbs since the

wooden roof. 13th century.

3 . Souk et-Trouk 1 . The Great

The Great Souk

3 Detailed Information All the

major sights in Tunis have a

DJERBA AND THE

128 TUNISIA REGION BY REGION NORTHERN TUNISIA 129

Exploring Northern Tunisia

0 Ichkeul National Park pp140–41 O Railway

front cover, makes it easy to

locate each region.