ISSUE #28

CONTENTS
CEO’s Letter / 05
Fiona Jenvey, Mudpie’s CEO

MPD Sources: Innovative Shanghai / 06

Innovative retail concepts from the Chinese mega-city

MPD Meets: Amy Thompson &

Doyeon Noro Kim / 08
MPDClick catches up with two promising young creatives

MPD Hotspot: Seoul / 14

Eight of Seoul’s strongest cultural highlights
06
MPD OneToWatch: Brian Gathii / 20
A look at the work of the British-Kenyan fashion designer

MPD Focus: It Began in Africa / 24

An exciting new African art & design exhibition in New York

MPD Look: Radical Handicrafts / 28

Looking to handmade pieces for style inspiration

14

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28
December 2010 / 03
CEO’S
LETTER
Welcome to our
28th issue of
mpdinsight. We
welcome the
New Year by
publishing our
Autumn/Winter
2012/13 Trend
‘Nations Rising’;
a season of
cultural remix,
technological
development and
sustainable luxury
where the near
future will demonstrate innovative examples
of how technology, culture and creativity can
come together to create an augmented future
within our shrinking world. More on this can
be discovered in our trend books or our online
service mpdclick.com, while for readers of
mpdinsight we share some of the highlights of
our thinking and research.
Culture Rising
This season, design inspiration comes from
Africa’s ‘cut & paste’ approach to crafts and
technology. For marketers, the continent
offers a new paradigm for retail and brand
development in a consumer market that,
according to McKinsey, will have grown more
than 35% by 2015.
Certainly Africa is the next big market
opportunity after China, Latin America and
India; according to agencies including WPP
and Publicis, growth in these emerging markets
will offset other regions such as Western
Europe where expenditure growth is slowing.
In this new world of opportunity the focus is on
international brands such as Nike, as well as
technology; internet usage is set to increase
300% between 2009 and 2012, providing
a 2 way exchange between Africa and the
developed world. Finally, let’s not forget the
UAE; Qatar scored big time with its successful
2022 World Cup bid, providing an unbeatable
PR opportunity for the Arab world.
Creativity Rising
At a time when the world’s future points ever
eastwards, South Korean capital Seoul reveals
Fiona Jenvey, CEO of Mudpie,
considers the East as a haven
for design, art and technological
innovation, placing emphasis on the
Middle East and South Korea.
ambitions to be a hub of cutting edge creative
commerce and a city of design. South Korean
Fashion Week has experienced an upsurge
in coverage this season, although unusually
it is their menswear designers welcoming
the majority of the limelight, including labels
Groundwave and Beyond Closet alongside
emerging womenswear labels like Johnny
Hates Jazz.
Technology Rising
This issue explores the new world of marketing.
Here, augmented reality changes the
conversation between consumer and Brand by
amplifying the brand’s opportunity to interact.
According to figures from ABI Research, the
market for augmented reality (AR) in the US
alone is expected to hit $350m (£218m) in
2014, up from about $6m (£3.8m) in 2008.
In November of this year Airwalk used an
augmented reality app to launch invisible pop-
up stores which sold a limited edition of the Jim
shoe in New York and LA.
The app, which directed people to the Airwalk
website, created the highest traffic in the
company’s history. H&M released a similar
app to enable shoppers to ‘virtually try on’ the
clothes it features in its shop windows, while
J.C. Penney set up an AR Dressing Room
as part of their ‘back to school’ campaign.
Elsewhere, Tissot lets users print and cut out
a paper strip in order to try on virtual watches
through its website.
Tissot showcased the application with an
interactive Selfridges window display; YouTube
views of the campaign have surpassed 70,000.
This reportedly resulted in increasing in-store
sales at Selfridges by 85%.
Hopefully these ideas and examples will be
enough to encourage creative inspiration within
our readers - enjoy the issue.
Fiona Jenvey, CEO
December 2010 / 05
 Sources
CENTRAL SHANGHAI
DISTRICTS
HUANGPU
ZHABEI RIVER
AEGIS SHANGHAI
JING’AN DISTRICT
HONGKOU
UNITED NUDE
BARBIE SHANGHAI WHERE: HUAIHAI MIDDLE ROAD
LUWAN DISTRICT
WHY: A PRODUCT RANGE OF INNOVATIVE
AND CONCEPTUAL SHOE DESIGNS ARE
VINTAGE STAR PERFECTLY PLACED IN UNITED NUDE’S
HUANGPU DISTRICT SHANGHAI FLAGSHIP STORE.
PUDONG DESIGNED BY THE BRAND’S CREATIVE
JING’AN HUANGPU DIRECTOR AND ARCHITECT REM D
KOOLHAAS, THE STORE ENCOMPASSES A
‘DARK-SHOP’ CONCEPT, OF WHICH ONLY
THE PRODUCTS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH
DUNHILL SPOTLIGHTS IN WHAT IS MORE LIKE A
LUWAN DISTRICT SHOWCASE OR EXHIBITION, MAKING FOR
A HIGHLY UNIQUE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE.
MINIMAL FIXTURES AND DETAILS PLACE
PROMINENCE ON THE CONTEMPORARY
LUWAN FOOTWEAR, DRAWING THE EYE WITHOUT
DISTRACTION.
BAPE
LUWAN DISTRICT
UNITED NUDE
LUWAN DISTRICT
INNOVATIVE BAPE
SHANGHAI
WHERE: UNIT 3, NO.7 XINTIANDI
WHY: THE JAPANESE STREETWEAR
CLOTHING COMPANY HAS EXPANDED
HUGELY IN RECENT YEARS, INCLUDING
The Far East hosts some of the most inspirational retail A STUNNING NEW STORE IN SHANGHAI.
spaces in the world, reflecting its highly creative and A CLEAN AND MINIMAL WHITE INTERIOR
ALLOWS THE VIBRANT NATURE OF THE
artistic culture. As one of the world’s fastest growing PRODUCTS AND GARMENTS TO TAKE
cities, Shanghai emerges as an international hotspot CENTRE STAGE.
for finance and commerce while also housing an ever A DRAMATIC ‘BAPE’ CAMOUFLAGE IS
growing fashion landscape; Mpdclick hand pick six ALSO FEATURED PRINTED ONTO THE
CEILING, REINFORCING THE STREETWEAR
of our favourite retail interiors to be inspired by from ASPECT OF THE BRAND. EVEN FOR
Shanghai, China. THE EDGIEST OF BRANDS, THIS STORE
PROVES THAT MINIMAL DECORATION AND
Words by Heather Tuck A SIMPLE FEATURE PRINT CAN PRESENT
THE PRODUCT OFFERING JUST AS
EFFECTIVELY.
06 / December 2010
AEGIS SHANGHAI
WHERE: 777 JU LU ROAD
WHY: PROVIDING AN EXCLUSIVE AND
CURATED RANGE OF CONTEMPORARY
DESIGNER & LUXE APPAREL AND
ACCESSORY LABELS, CREATIVE
FOUNDERS DEAGER KAO AND WINSTON
CHOW AIM TO APPEAL TO A WIDE
DEMOGRAPHIC THROUGH VARYING PRICE
POINTS AND STYLES.
A MINIMAL, MONOCHROME PALETTE
IS SEEN THROUGHOUT USING SUBTLE
CHANGES IN TONE TO ACCENTUATE THE
VARIOUS ANGLES AND MATTE/SHINE
CONTRASTS FEATURED THROUGHOUT
THE INTERIOR. HERE, THE DESIGN OF
THE STORE IS AS INSPIRATIONAL AS THE
PRODUCT OFFERING.
DUNHILL
WHERE: 796 HUAIHAI ROAD
WHY: CATERING TO THE LUXURY SECTOR,
DUNHILL HAS ALL AVENUES COVERED IN
ITS SHANGHAI LOCATION, FROM BESPOKE
TAILORING AND FOOD, TO WINE TASTING
AND EVEN A MEMBER’S CLUB. THE MEN’S
PREMIUM LABEL INVITES ITS CUSTOMERS
INTO THE LIFE OF THE BRAND, HOUSING
GUEST SPEAKERS, A TRADITIONAL
BARBER SHOP AND EVEN A ‘TRAVEL &
DISCOVERY ROOM’ WITHIN THE 1920S
NEOCLASSICAL STYLE VILLA.
NAMING EACH STORE A ‘HOME’, DUNHILL
ESTABLISHMENTS ARE MUCH MORE
THAN A STORE; IT’S A LIFESTYLE OF
WHERE CLOSE RELATIONSHIPS CAN BE
MADE, GENERATING BRAND LOYALTY AND
ENGAGEMENT.
BARBIE SHANGHAI
WHERE: 550 HUAIHAI CENTRAL ROAD
WHY: CATERING TO EVERY YOUNG
GIRL’S DREAM, THE BARBIE SHANGHAI
STORE WHISKS CUSTOMERS AWAY
INTO A FANTASTICAL DREAMSCAPE OF
SWIRLING DOLL STAIRCASES, ENDLESS
MERCHANDISE, THE CHANCE TO HAVE
YOU AND YOUR BARBIE’S HAIR DONE
TOGETHER AND EVEN THE CHANCE TO
CREATE YOUR OWN BARBIE.
THE STORE PERFECTLY EMBODIES
THE BARBIE BRAND; BY LETTING THE
CUSTOMER IMMERSE THEMSELVES
WITHIN THEIR FAVOURITE TOY, THIS STORE
PROVIDES A GREAT EXAMPLE OF HOW TO
CONNECT CONSUMERS TO A BRAND.
VINTAGE STAR
WHERE: 268 TIBET ROAD MIDDLE
WHY: THIS CONCEPT STORE, ENVISIONED
BY NEW YORK BASED ARCHITECTURE
FIRM SERGIO MANNINO STUDIOS, PLAYS
ON THE USE OF ILLUMINATING LIGHT, IN
COMPLETE JUXTAPOSITION TO THE UNITED
NUDE STORE AS DISCUSSED PREVIOUSLY.
A BLANKET OF CLINICAL WHITE IS
ALLEVIATED WITH THE USE OF INTIMATE
SPACE, STILL APPEARING LUXURIOUS
WITHOUT BEING INTIMIDATING. STRONG
ANGLES ARE DEFINED WITHIN SHELVING
AND SEATING ARRANGEMENTS,
REFLECTING THE DYNAMIC DESIGNS.
TRANSLUCENT WHITE SHIELDS ARE
USED TO CREATE ILLUSIONS, FURTHER
SOFTENING THE ALL OVER WHITE SPACE
WHILE FRAMING EACH PRODUCT.
December 2010 / 07
 Meets
“The strong contours and shell like qualities of the
body-encasing garments symbolise protection”
Amy Thompson
OPPOSITE: AMY THOMPSON & DOYEON NORO KIM
ABOVE: SHOTS FROM THOMPSON’S ‘PLASTIC ANALOGUE’ MA COLLECTION
AMY THOMPSON &
We first talked to conceptual fashion designer Amy Thompson
who’s quickly becoming an exciting designer to watch, having
designed for Black Eyed Peas’ Fergie and showcased at Paris
Fashion Week in collaboration with Talbot Runhof. With an
DOYEON NORO KIM
increase in surveillance in South Korea, prompting a strong
sense of protection and security, Thompson’s experiments with
armour as an answer to this need for protection feels especially
relevant.
As Mpdclick cites South Korea as an exciting hub of emerging creativity,
with groundbreaking advancements in technology and a rapidly growing Having completed an MA in Fashion Bodywear from De
Montfort University, your graduate collection showcased
popularity of new talent emerging from the region, we talk to two young
an array of sculpted silhouettes encasing the body
creatives whose work proves particularly poignant. with protective armour. What was the idea behind this
Interview by Amy Trayford collection?
My original inspiration for the collection is based on traditional
armour and the powerful exaggerated silhouettes they create. In
particular, I love the complexity of the joints and methods used
to interlock the many layers and panels together. This inspired
me to develop my own unique interpretation of armour, using
08 / December 2010
alternative materials and contemporary methods of construction
that both echo and contradict the traditional skills of making
armour. The designs that are digitally printed onto the bodywear
and loose dresses were inspired by body mapping patterns and
computer avatars.
These represent the skeletal human body that is beneath the
armour in a contemporary format, highlighting the body’s
vulnerability and need of protection. The strong, pronounced
contours and shell like qualities of the body-encasing garments
symbolise this protection; however, the translucency of the
polypropylene causes you to question whether the armour is just
an illusion of security.
How important is technology for your work?
Technology is forever advancing and the possibilities it can offer
both inspire and intrigue me. I tend to find myself thinking… “Wow
wouldn’t it be amazing if I could incorporate THAT into fashion!”
That’s how I came to use Lenticular Technology within my latest
December 2010 / 09
 Meets

“It would actually feel very odd not to use prints.

For me, it is a natural way in which to express my
creativity and push a concept further”
Amy Thompson

ABOVE: COLLABORATION COLLECTION WITH TALBOT RUNHOF A/W 10/11

NEXT: TOP ROW - TALBOT RUNHOF COLLABORATION COLLECTION A/W
10/11; BLACK EYED PEAS’ FERGIE IN AN AMY THOMPSON DESIGN.
BOTTOM ROW = BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE TALBOT RUNHOF SHOW

collection. I had seen some artwork created by Professor Martin
Richardson, (Professor of Holography) where the images literally
transformed as you walked around it. I decided to investigate
further, and in the end actually got the opportunity to work
alongside the professor to incorporate into garments from my
collection sections of specially designed lenticular lenses of
hypnotic patterns that spin and change colour according to
which angle the garment is viewed at.
Incorporating technology into fashion can often seem
unattainable, so it was extremely exciting to see how the project
developed and what could be achieved.
The innovation in your work is said to be achieved by the
fusion of contemporary and traditional techniques. Which
techniques in particular are these?
My background in textiles and applied arts has given me the
ability to confidently merge disciplines and skills within my
designs and is something that I want to focus on developing
010 / December 2010
more within future collections. Before specialising in fashion, my
previous work at university incorporated traditional skills of hand
embroidery, machine embroidery and screen-print.
In order to achieve a contemporary effect, I would try to branch
away from the traditional or predictable methods of application
and perhaps apply the same technique to an out of the ordinary
material or concept, combined with something completely
opposite or random.
My latest collection shows this more subtly, but the fusion is
still there. Traditional techniques used to construct armour were
followed but instead applied using the contemporary technique
of flat pack construction.
You also play with printed textiles a lot in your work. Is this
something that appears throughout all your collections?
Having specialised in printed textiles for my BA degree it is
definitely an area within my work that I have a great passion for.
It would actually feel very odd not to use prints. For me, it is a
natural way in which to express my creativity and push a concept
further. Using just plain fabric within my collection would seem
way too bare and fabric bought with a print on it already would
feel as if I had cheated in some way and that I was stunting my
own imagination. It would probably feel as if it wasn’t fully my
own work!
I think the opportunity to create a completely unique fabric and
knowing there isn’t going to be anything quite like it is amazing,
and in my opinion is a great way to bring real individuality to
garments. Print will always be appear in my collections!
How would you describe your signature style?
I would describe my style as stark structured minimalism
combined with chaotic colourful prints. My work also has strong
futuristic qualities and for this reason caught the attention of
stylist B. Åkerlund who commissioned me earlier this year to
create a custom made outfit for Fergie from the Black Eyed Peas
which she wore throughout their futuristic themed 2010 ‘E.N.D’
World Tour. (see above)
The armour I made was based on a piece from my MA collection,
but with more exaggerated shoulders and I created an intense
colourful print for the bodysuit as she wanted to make sure it
stood out from on stage. The bodysuit was completely covered
with Swarovski crystals so that it sparkled in the stage lights.
Are you currently working on a new collection? Can you
tell us anything about it?
Yes I’m currently developing my new collection. It involves
working with polypropylene again as I know there is still so much
more that I want to develop. I will be experimenting with it even
further and combining more detail and pattern using different
areas of technology and print. You will have to wait a bit longer
to find out more!
December 2010 / 011
 Meets
Mpdclick next spoke to South Korean Fashion Illustrator Doyeon
Noro Kim. After successfully studying at the prestigious London
College of Fashion, collaborating with the London Olympics and
illustrating live at the V&A, Noro Kim serves as an exciting and
inspiring example of this emerging South Korean talent.
You completed a BA at the prestigious London College
of Fashion. Your graduate final project entitled ‘What is
Fashion? And What Is Fashion Illustration?’ explored
fashion illustration from various perspectives. What
inspired this project, and can you explain it a little more?
I found myself struggling to define it, denying that it isn’t just
about drawing fashion, and yet there is more to it. I thought it
was interesting and ironic for me to be questioning what I have
spent years studying, and wanted to turn all this thinking into a
part of my work. I wanted to envisage the thoughts in my head
rather than thinking about what to make in particular.
Although I have built up a strong portfolio over past two years,
I felt that there was still something missing, something that was
really me. Then I started looking at things I wanted to achieve,
not only in terms of work but also as in bigger picture. I starting
thinking about “What kind of project would I want to do if I was
given only a year to live?” immediately I thought of road trips.
So I began going on road trips, taking journeys searching for
something without a clue what it is about. So many things
“The act of drawing slowly became an escape, a protest
against obedience and stereotypical perception”
Doyeon Noro Kim
happen during a journey, that you start looking at details and
learn to enjoy every single moment. This reflects my perspective
toward Fashion Illustration. This notion of ‘uncertainty’ within the
context attracted me to go out on random road trips. And it has
never ended. The journey continues.
You are originally from South Korea. How does this
influence the way you work and your initial ideas?
I was never really encouraged to be creative back then. Believe
it or not, the comic books I used to draw from, my mum always
tore apart, along with my drawings. It kind of counteracted and
I became more obsessed to draw as the act of drawing slowly
became an escape or somewhat like a protest against obedience
and stereotypical perception. I was suffocating and searching for
freedom.
Living everyday to fit into system and not to be an outcast makes
me very anxious and I use these feelings as my drive to think
outside of the box. I know for a fact that I have to go extreme to
overcome what limits my intuition, which is being afraid of losing
identity.
In my final year of BA, I experimented on myself to get over self-
consciousness by putting myself physically to an extreme state,
such as not sleeping to cause my consciousness to weaken and
to react slower than my creativity.
012 / December 2010
How will the two-year mandatory military service you have
to complete back in Korea affect and inspire you work?
To live under rules will block all creative instinct, but I’m in fact
looking forward to it. I’m seeing it as another unique opportunity
and I’m looking forward to see how my creative perspective will
change after the military service, I believe it will be very interesting.
How important is technology for your work?
New technology does inspire me but it’s never better than
something handcrafted with one’s sweat & soul. Yet it is always
interesting to adopt technology and find a way to mix with hand
skills to create a new tool.
What is your best memory for LCF?
First, being given the opportunity to meet ambitious people that
I am still in touch with now. These people are so passionate and
enjoy their life as much as I do, which I find completely inspiring.
Second, the strong industry link which LCF offers, in my first year
I collaborated with the London Olympics (my first live illustration),
and in second year I was live illustrating at the V&A. My final
year exhibition was held in Carnaby St and more recently I have
conducted Fashion Illustration workshops at the V&A with BBC
Blast. What more can I ask for? I think I have benefited fully from
what LCF offers to students.
What are you currently working on? Can you tell us much
about it?
I’m currently doing an MA specializing in Fashion Illustration. As
LCF doesn’t offer Fashion Illustration at MA level, I have been
given a chance to study independently, and I am trying to delve
into Fashion Illustration in every possible aspect.
I am also working as ‘THE PIG MAN’ in different events doing live
illustration performances. You will find me in the pigs head mask
around London outside, when it starts to get warmer.
And finally, what does the future hold for you?
Not sure. I love not knowing and trying to make the most out of
what I have now. And I’m not so worried because in London,
there are always opportunities and I just have to be ready to grab
it when it comes. So for now, I concentrate on what I’m doing
currently rather than in the future. The closest goal I have for
future at the moment is to set up funding to create a scholarship
to support prospective Fashion Illustration students.
Mpdclick would like to thank Amy and Doyeon for their time and
wish them all the best for the future
December 2010 / 013
 Hotspots

SEOUL
Seoul is a dynamic mega-city in the midst of an architectural and cultural renaissance. Named 2010
World Design Capital, all eyes are on Seoul and all that it has to offer – emerging technologies, a booming
art scene, trendy districts and thriving youth culture. Its light speed transformation from historic city to
a glittering metropolis that successfully marries traditional Korean values with a high tech vision of the
future makes Seoul the place to visit in 2011.
Words by Jo Hatch

014 / December 2010 December 2010 / 015

 Hotspots
1 4
1_THE ACCOMMODATION
W SEOUL WALKERHILL HOTEL
The W Seoul Walkerhill Hotel sits almost cloudlike on the slope of Mount Acha, moments from the bustling Ganham business district
and overlooking the Han River. Ultra modern with high-tech finishes, a playful colour palette and boasting a Spa (one of the largest
in Asia), Stylelab and Golf Driving Range, it comes as no surprise that the hotel has featured on Conde Nast’s Hot List. Discover the
luxury boutique hotel’s ‘Extreme wow’ and ‘Fantastic’ suites for the ultimate indulgence.
2_THE STORE
GALLERIA
Architecturally inspiring and home to major international and Korean brands, the Galleria Department store in the trendy Apgujeong-
dong district is the “Mecca of shopping”, attracting visitors as far afield as Japan. Renovated in 2004 by architect firm UNSTUDIO,
the store features LED illuminated catwalk-style walkways, luxurious immersive interiors and an exterior facade that continually shifts
and shimmers according to weather conditions. This month, the Hanwha Group owned Galleria Department Store announced that it
has won the highest grade of five stars in the Best Retail Development category for the Asia-Pacific region in the 2010 International
Commercial Property Awards
016 / December 2010
3
3_THE DESIGNER
JU YOUNG LEE
One of the most internationally recognized Korean menswear brands, Seoul born fashion designer Ju Young Lee has been making
waves with her edgy ‘Resurrection’ designs. With a design aesthetic that favours masculine silhouettes, gender play, functional
details and a military edge, Ju Yong Lee’s ‘Reessurrection’ brand not only appeals to Seoul’s fashion forward youth, but has also
found fame with the likes of Marilyn Manson, the Black Eyed Peas and Lady Gaga.
4_THE ARCHITECTURE
DONGDAEMUN DESIGN PLAZA
The Dongdaemun Design Plaza by architect extraordinaire Zaha Hadid is set to be the new culture centre of Seoul, with a design
museum, library, educational facilities and 30,000 square meters of green oasis. The design integrates traditional elements of
Korean design and reinterprets them to create a contemporary space that blurs the boundaries between architecture and nature.
Situated in South Korea’s largest shopping and business district, the inspiring plaza is being celebrated as one of the greatest
achievements of Seoul’s recent design makeover as it will create an important link between the city’s vibrant and energetic culture,
historic artefacts and emerging nature. The plaza will be open to the public in early 2011.
December 2010 / 017
 Hotspots

5 6

5_THE DISTRICT
HONGDAE

Considered a symbol of Korea’s youthfulness, the vibrant student Hongdae district is the centre of Seoul’s fashion, nightlife and live-
music scene. Home to Korea’s famous art school Hongik University, Hongdae is the go-to place for discovering the latest trends.
Quirky boutiques featuring fashion-forward collections, exciting vintage outlets (Divine Comedy, Joux Joux and Salon Yong) and artsy
cafes (including Giocat, a cat café!) will keep you occupied during the day, while the night time opens up to Hongdae’s many clubs,
bars and Karaoke rooms.

6_THE EVENT
INCHEON INTERNATIONAL DIGITAL ART FESTIVAL

Located in Songdu City, the city of innovation and sustainable design just outside of Seoul, Incheon International Digital Art Festival
(INDAF) is a platform for emerging technologies and art. Under the theme of Mobile Vision: Unbounded Aesthetics, visitors are able
to discover the latest augmented technologies, dynamic architecture, generative design, interactive appliances and smart fabrics.
8
Started in 2009 this yearly festival is a major event for those wishing to discover the latest trends in technology or simply to play
around with the designs on offer.

7_THE MUSEUM
THE LEUUM SAMSUNG MUSEUM

You cannot go to Seoul and not see the Leeum Samsung Museum – designed by award winning architects Jean Nouvel and Rem
KoolHaas, this reservation-only museum in the Yongsan district of Seoul showcases established and emerging artists alongside
historical artefacts. The current exhibition, ‘Memories of the Future’ showcases the work of emerging Korean artist including Jackson
Hong, Gimhongsok, Meek Young and photographic sculptor Osang Gwon, in an exploration of trends in contemporary art. The
exhibition will run until the 13th of February 2011.

8_THE MARKET
BLING & PLANTOON NIGHT FLEA MARKET

If you like nothing more than browsing through heaps of accessories and clothes whilst listening to the latest DJ sounds in a dynamic
after-hours setting, then the Bling & Plantoon Night Flea Market will definitely be your thing. Held in the trendy Platoon Kunsthale,
a dynamic space for subculture events in the upscale Cheongdam area on the 1st Saturday of every month, this collaborative
event between the venue and club culture magazine ‘Bling’ attracts hoards of super stylish bargain hunters. We particularly like the
eccentric but stylish collection of second hand-clothing and hand-crafted accessories from Canadian model-come-photographer-
come-stylist Chad Burton.
7
018 / December 2010 December 2010 / 019
 OneToWatch
“Gathii explains his design process as an exploration
of science and culture and refuses to accept full
credit for his collections’ success”
STREET SAFARI:
The dynamic landscape of
Africa is etched deep within
the global mindset; scientific
BRIAN GATHII
belief sets the dawn of
human evolution there while
its emblems, markings and
colours saturate contemporary
culture. As Africa enters a new
With Africa’s unique aesthetic forming a key influence for one of Mpdclick’s
dawn where the thriving rather
autumn/winter 12/13 trends, we take a look at the work of British-Nigerian than the suffering draw focus,
fashion designer Brian Gathii, whose striking designs take their visual cues its creative talents spearhead
from traditionally African iconography. a fresh identity, marking the
expansive continent as an
Words by Jen Cox influential cultural hub.
Kenyan-born British designer
Brian Gathii is one such
virtuoso, spreading the
‘Afrocentric’ gospel with his
own dynamic streetwear label
020 / December 2010
OPPOSITE: CLOSEUP OF ONE OF GATHII’S AFRICAN-INSPIRED T-SHIRT PRINTS
ABOVE: UK MUSICIAN TINIE TEMPAH MODELS GATHII’S DESIGNS; TO-ORIST CATALOGUE
‘To-orist’ that often draws
upon his rich cultural heritage
for aesthetic impact.
Gathii’s mission statement
‘to create equilibrium via
opposites’ explains the
diverse visual impact of his
work as well as his own
personal journey. After eight
years ensconced within the
vibrancy of his birthplace in
Kenya, he moved to the UK;
young enough to adopt the
conventions of his new home,
yet imbued with the colourful
references and customs of his
own unique culture. A deep-
seated need to create led
him to study graphics at the
London College of Communication where during his second
year, in 2006, the ambitious student conceptualised ‘To-orist’, a
boutique clothing brand formed on a backbone of artistic integrity
and celebrating a range of cultures from England to Africa and
beyond. In 2008, despite the crippling recession, Gathii opened
directional branded lifestyle store ‘Cranium Tie’ in Essex.
Decked out like a museum-come-gentleman’s club, the space is
stocked with high fashion and high design, including, of course,
his own popular label. Marking itself as a ‘must-have’ brand
for the modern consumer, all ‘To-orist’ pieces are created with
longevity in mind, while a celebration of science tunes into the
modern consumer’s desire for an intelligent product.
Gathii explains his design process as an exploration of science and
culture and staunchly refuses to accept full credit for the success
of his collections. He humbly states that To-orist is “merely an
inspired point of view” and a product of his environment.
The capsule product offering of t-shirts, polos and sweaters is
December 2010 / 021
 OneToWatch

“Truly artisan in ethos, each design is hand-

crafted featuring hologram, cork, leather
and Swarovski embellished screen-prints”

ABOVE & OPPOSITE: DETAILS OF TO-ORIST GARMENTS

characterised by bright graphic designs with a 1980’s flavour.
Truly artisan in ethos, each design is hand-crafted featuring
hologram, cork, leather and Swarovski embellished screen-
prints. The themes and concepts remain constant each season
while the techniques and applications provide variety.
A striking Masai warrior skull is one of the To-orists most
integral visuals harking back to Gathaii’s African heritage; more
commercially notable is a stark zebra head that comes in a range
of colours and applications, bringing To-orist valuable publicity
having graced the wardrobes of a number of trend-setting
celebrities. British Nigerian rapper Tinie Tempah declares himself
one of To-orist’s biggest fans and sported a complete ensemble
from the band in the video and advertising for his 2010 number
one debut single ‘Pass Out’ while fashion forward hip-hop
princess M.I.A cannot get enough of the culturally inspired gear.
and custom-made charm. Hand painted crocodile skin bomber
jackets exude urban street identity whilst providing a desirably
subtle way to reference the growing vogue for African textures
and visuals. With the brand reported to be financially thriving and
the buzz around it ever increasing, there is no doubt in our mind
that Brian Gathii and the To-orist brand are ones-to-watch.
Furthermore as Africa rises as a creative and economic super-
power with the continent’s top eighteen cities boasting a
combined spending power of $1.3 trillion dollars, global focus
will turn to the vibrant destination and its rising-stars. We expect
an influx of Africana themes to grip the realms of design and
fashion in the coming seasons as positive focus and an all out
celebration of Africa dominates the creative landscape.

A lucky-dip from history sees a veritable mish-mash of cultures

make it into To-orist’s iconic designs. The contemporary clash
aesthetic is under-pinned by luxury fabrics, ancient processes
022 / December 2010 December 2010 / 023
 Focus
IT BEGAN
In an unassuming corner of
Columbus Circle, New York
City, the Museum of Art &
IN AFRICA
Design is currently hosting
an exhibition that has set
out to blow apart common
misconceptions about a Between them, Sims and King-Hammond have collated a
continent whose impact on
A new exhibition at the Museum of Art & Design in New our lives is enormous and yet
York City provides a look at the influence that African largely unrecognised.
art & heritage has had on the rest of the world.
The continent in question
Words by James Samuel-Camps is, of course, Africa, and the
exhibition, the Global Art
Project, represents a coming-
together of a number of visual
endeavours and contrasts
that are eminently African.
The Project is curated by
two prominent academics in
024 / December 2010
“The aesthetic variance across the pieces challenges
the idea of a single African identity or ‘style’,
instead celebrating the diversity of its people”
OPPOSITE: GONÇALO MABUNDA, ‘THE HOPE THRONE’ (2008)
THIS PAGE: CHERYL R. RILEY, ‘ELEVATION MIRROR I’ (2000) SATCH HOYT, ‘RIMOLOGY’ (2009)
their field – firstly Lowery Stokes Sims, the Museum’s current
International Curator and the former director of Harlem’s Studio
Museum. Alongside her is Leslie King-Hammond, founding
director of the Center for Race & Culture at the Maryland Institute
College of Art, where she was formerly dean of Graduate Studies.
vast quantity of pieces from disciplines as varied as fashion,
architecture, painting and ceramics.
The aim of the exhibition is simple; Africa, its children and its
culture are ultimately responsible for inspiring some of the
greatest artists, designers and artisans ever seen in the West.
This exhibition serves to highlight that fact by exploring Africa’s
visual impact on the rest of the world.
Rather than just a conventional exhibition featuring typically
African works, the exhibition examines how culture has been
used as a force for good in the continent by “revealing the
stories of individuals working in the psychic and physical space
that is known as ‘Africa’ in the world today”. It also addresses
problems encountered by African artists; the commodification of
art production or the meaning and value of art in modern society.
Around 200 pieces are on display, from nearly 120 people and
groups. The aesthetic variance across the pieces challenges
the idea of a single African identity or ‘style’, instead celebrating
the diversity of its people. After all, Africa is the world’s second-
largest continent and its second-most populated, with around a
billion people across 54 countries speaking 2,000 languages and
practicing numerous religions.
Of the artists featured, many are not indigenous Africans, but
have family ancestry there; this allows the pieces to fully reflect the
pervasiveness of African culture across the world. For example,
Kossi Aguessy, a Togolese/Brazilian designer based in Paris, has
collaborated with high-end fashion brands such as Yves Saint
Laurent, Cartier and Swarovski. If further proof were needed of
the influence of Africa on Western design, Aguessy is it. Of the
exhibitors, a mere two hail from Asia - Ramijabi Madarsahib and
December 2010 / 025
 Focus

“In many ways the Global Africa Project

should be considered a poster child in
terms of contemporary curation”

ABOVE: FROM LEFT - SAKINA M’SA, FAST FORWARD COLLECTION (2010); SHEILA
BRIDGES, HARLEM TOILE DE JOUY (2010); SERGE MOUANGUE, ‘WAFRICA’ (2008)
OPPOSITE: ESTHER MAHLANGU, ‘BMW ART CAR’ (1991); SIDDI WOMEN’S QUILTING
COOPERATIVE, ‘PATCHWORK QUILT (KAWANDI)’ (2008)

Kairumbi Karimsahib, members of the Siddi Women’s Quilting of peace and unity in once civil war-torn Rwanda. There isn’t
Cooperative in Karnataka, India. Both women are descended much organisation to be seen at the exhibition; indeed, Roberta
from East Africans who visited the area in various capacities – Smith of the New York Times notes “if it lacks coherence, that is
merchants, servants, slaves. because there is none to be revealed.”

Their contribution to the Project is a handmade quilt each, The pieces are loosely grouped around several ‘thematic ideas’,
fashioned from old saris. The rough geometry of each piece is at including ‘the branding & co-opting of cultural references’, ‘the
once organic and calculated, each fragment adding to a stunning use of local materials’ and ‘the impact of art-making on the
overall piece that is far more than the sum of its parts. economic & social condition of local communities’.

Some of the other pieces are particularly poignant – a display
simply featuring a book entitled ‘The Boy Who Harnessed the
Wind: Creating Currents of Electricity & Hope’ tells the story of
William Kamkwamba of Malawi.
Kamkwamba had to help support his family as a teenager instead
of going to school and spent time scavenging materials to build a
windmill that supplies his village with clean water and electricity.
Elsewhere, exquisite basketry by the Gahaya Links Weaving
Association, a collection of Hutu and Tutsi women, is a symbol
026 / December 2010
In many ways the Global Africa Project should be considered
a poster child in terms of contemporary curation. By bringing
together such a vast and varying collection of works, visitors
can truly appreciate the subtleties of African design that have
permeated virtually all art & design disciplines throughout
the world. Africa is widely regarded by biologists as being the
birthplace of all human existence; you would be hard pressed to
find a finer starting point for art.
The Global Art Project is at the MAD until 15th May 2011
December 2010 / 027
 Look
RADICAL
HANDICRAFT
After lying dormant for a short while, textile arts have
erupted as popular hobbies once again, revived by
a younger generation of crafters. This new breed of
yarn enthusiasts have turned tradition on its head with
guerilla craft movements such as the recent global craze
of yarn-bombing.
Words & Styling by Kiah Tulloch
For autumn/winter 11/12 Mpdclick forecasted resurgence in
the popularity of handmade creativity – in particular traditional
handicrafts. As the season gets closer we notice a more
rebellious edge to classic crochet, knit and embroidery
techniques, which have progressed into brightly-coloured
artistic statements. We also see a growing number of artists
and designers using traditional handicrafts as their preferred
medium. This shift towards a more expressive style will
definitely be key in influencing apparel, accessories and
footwear inspired by Collectivism – one Mpdclick’s trend
directions for autumn/winter 11/12.
Also known as guerilla knitting, yarn-bombing is an eco-
friendly form of street art which involves yarn lovers decorating
anything from fences and benches to trees and lampposts
with brightly-coloured knits, crochet and embroidery in a bid
to add warmth and vibrancy to their surroundings.
Taking the idea of yarn-bombing to another level and into
gallery spaces, textile artist Olek (real name Agata Oleksiak)
crochets anything and everything in her space, from text
messages to furniture and cars. Bursting with colour, Olek’s
reworked camouflage patterns are edgy and bizarre, creating
an almost sinister edge through such a homey technique.
028 / December 2010
SKINNY JEANS FROM ARMAND BASI. SPIDERWEB KNIT SHAWL FROM
TOPSHOP. SHEARLING HEELED BOOT FROM FRENCH CONNECTION.
COAT FROM SPORTMAX. KNIT PATTERN T-SHIRT FROM PAUL SMITH.
PATTERNED SCARF FROM TOPSHOP.
The artwork of London-based Italian artist Maurizio Anzeri is
another note-worthy reference. Never before has embroidery
seemed as dark and suggestive as in the meticulous work of this
talented up & comer. Anzeri is an artist with considerable buzz
around him at the moment for his vibrantly-coloured, intricately
embroidered discarded black & white photographs with a
distinctly string art-inspired style.
On the spring/summer 11 runways a collection of well-known
designers, including Kenzo and Christian Dior, provided a wealth of
inspiration for knit and crochet innovation. For Swedish designer
Sandra Backlund handicrafts continue to be an important part of
the creative process and have become somewhat of a trademark.
Her spring/summer 11 range combined metallic crochet and
knit with weaving to create silhouette-enhancing forms. Radical
weaving from Impasse de la Defense and chunky embroidery
embellishment from Dior solidified the textile art revival and
providing equally appealing alternatives to knit and crochet.
The craft infatuation is also seen filtering into home and interiors
as designers such as Marcel Wanders with his crochet chair and
Annette Bugansky with her knitted ceramics, experiment with
handicrafts to create furniture and interesting surface textures
for homewares.
As we near the autumn/winter 11/12 season be prepared for
quirky layered styling and warm and vibrant colours in fashion
and a homey, warm and fuzzy feel to interiors awash with
cozy afghans and crochet taxidermy. Cater for the demand
by merchandising crochet and knit-mix cardigans with crochet
square print t-shirts and coloured skinny jeans. Finish off the
look with offbeat accessories, shearling boots, a woolen coat
with oversized cable knit collar and an old-fashioned crochet
shawl for fun, on-trend autumn styling.
December 2010 / 029

trends
Mpdclick’s Trends area provides in-depth
analysis of real-time and emerging fashion,
product and lifestyle trends. Our essential trend
forecast for the fashion and home & interiors
markets feature the latest colours, textile &
graphic inspirations and garment & accessory
range plans.
colour
The Colour area is an essential start to the
season, providing key colour information from
leading organisations and respected trade fairs.
Inspirational colour palettes, all with Pantone®
references, and galleries of images are available
for fashion, homewares and sports markets as
early as two years in advance.
trade fair
Mpdclick’s Trade Fair area keeps you up-
to-date with our extensive coverage of the
most important international trade shows and
exhibitions; providing comprehensive coverage
and interpretation from a diverse range of
fashion, sportswear, fabric, design and lifestyle
shows, and insightful seasonal trade fair trend
overviews.
retail
The Retail area provides a look into buying
trends from cities across the world at a shop-
floor level; providing extensive photo reports and
trend analysis of garments and accessories in
addition to specialised reports for sportswear,
intimates, home & interiors, seasonal ranges and
visual merchandising.
runway
The Runway area provides thousands of images
each season from the best international shows;
including New York, London, Milan, Paris, Sao
Paulo, Sydney and Tokyo. Our comprehensive
Runway trend overviews offer insightful analysis
of the key shapes, details and themes from all
the major ready-to-wear fashion weeks.
graphics
Keep up-to-date with an ever expanding
collection of fully vectorised and editable
inspirational graphics, prints, trend related
garment shapes and clip art covering all ages
and genders available for download in CDR,
EPS and AI formats.
fabric
Our comprehensive fabric reports provide you
with the latest in textile and surface design, from
the world’s leading textile shows. With fabric
shows a season ahead of the fashion sector,
our PANTONE® colour referenced reports are
an essential tool for designing future collections.
home & interiors
Mpdclick’s in-depth coverage of the premier
design, homewares and interiors shows across
the globe will keep you up-to-date with cutting
edge designs of the future. Mpdclick provides
valuable insight into everything from innovative
product to colour, textile and print developments
in addition to extensive architecture trend reviews.
business intelligence & news
The Business area provides authoritative and
valuable intelligence on consumer behaviours,
business trends, financial insights and apparel
sourcing developments, covering both influential
and emerging economies from across the globe.
Our News area is an essential tool to keep
professionals on the pulse of the fashion industry.
For more information please visit www.mpdclick.com or contact your nearest agent
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Argentina - International Textile Consultants Germany - mode...information GmbH Korea - International Textile Design Co
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_Thursday 27th January 2011_London College

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032Spring/Summer
/ December 2010 12 Trend Seminar / 27th January 2011 / London College of Fashion
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