Ingeo™ is a trademark for the first commercially
viable man-made fibre made from 100 per cent
annually renewable resources. Renewable resources
examples are corn and genetically modified corn. It is
more hydrophilic than common polyester fibres, when
blended with cotton and wool, Ingeo™ results in
lighter garments that absorb moisture better, wicking
water away from the skin.
Ingeo™ fibres are Polylactide(PLA) fibres, an unique
bio-based material derived from corn and also from
sugarcane instead of oil, as other polymer fibres. Poly
(lactic acid) or polylactide (PLA) is a bio-degradable,
thermoplastic polymer that is extracted from natural
renewable resources. The fibres are now being
manufactured in large scale in the US from corn. These
fibres can be manufactured from grass, bio-mass and
other crops that are capable of producing starch
sugars. The subsequent processes of yarn production,
fabric production and apparels are similar to the
processes of producing polyester.
History
PLA fibre has been known since the 1930’s when it
was first synthesised. PLA has been synthesised
widely from starch, and hence sugarcane was
considered as the predominant source of PLA until
corn production went on a hike in the US for
manufacturing ethanol. Ever since then various
researches were conducted on corn. In the 1980’s
the first break was obtained when PLA was
synthesised from corn starch. In 2000’s production
of fibres from corn PLA was set up in a large scale.
It was introduced globally in 2003 on a
commercially viable scale by NatureWorks LLC, a
company dedicated to more sustainable and
environmental product and business development.
NatureWorks’ mission is to drive real
environmental progress through its global market
development and communication of the many and
varied Ingeo™ branded products made today from
Ingeo™ fibre.
Fibre properties
Ingeo™ PLA is the first melt-processable natural
based fibre, with the PLA resin using readily available
polyester type fibre manufacturing processes. The
fundamental polymer chemistry of PLA allows control
of certain fibre properties and makes the fibre suitable
for a wide variety of technical textile fibre applications,
especially apparel and performance apparel
applications such as:
The fibre with good strength, the corresponding fabric
with many properties, such as gentle bright luster,
good crease recovery and shrink resistance, good
air-permeability and moisture absorption, high
resistance to UV. Moreover, it is soft, silk-like luster,
comfortable handle, exquisite skin sensation, bacteria
resistance and mildew-proof. After dyeing, many small
holes can be found on the side surface, which has the
same effect as wool squama, such as absorbing
moisture, quick dry and breathing freely. The clothing
made of it with graceful drape ability, wash and wear
APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2011 57
 treatment, rebound resilience, size stability to the
many solvents including dry cleaning agent, dirt
resistance, endurance to the sunlight and the climate,
it is a new generation of green fibre.
This fibre can replace various textile materials, it is
most fit for clothing, can be made into yarn, fabric,
knitting, nonwoven, staple fibre, multifilament and
single filament. It can be spun into pure yarn, at the
same time can be spun with cotton, wool, viscose
and other chemical fibres. It has been widely used in
underwear, outer coat, sports wears, shirt, T-shirt,
jacket, trousers and dress. It is regarded as an
environmental-friendly new textile material. It blends
the humanity, nature and technology into a unity
concordantly.
Main features in clothing industry:
• Soft handle, which assures you of an irreplaceable
good feeling
• Low moisture absorption and high wicking, offering
benefits for sports and performance apparel and
products
• Low flammability and smoke generation
• With good wrinkle and shrink resistance, graceful
drape ability, easy care
• Antimicrobial, mildew-proof, keep skin clean and
safe
• High resistance to ultra violet (UV) light, a benefit
for performance apparel as well as outdoor furniture
and furnishings applications
• A low index of refraction, which provides excellent
colour characteristics. The refractive index of 1.35–
1.45 is lower than PET(1.54)
• Bio-degradable completely and environment-
friendly
• Lower specific gravity, 1.25 g/cm3, making PLA
lighter in weight than other fibres
• In addition to coming from an annually renewable
resource base PLA fibres are readily melt-spun,
offering manufacturing advantages that result in
greater consumer choice
• High resilience
• Low odour retention
Table 1: Comparison with other fibres
• Biological resistance: Not inherently ‘antimicrobial’
without suitable after-finish treatment
• Care must be taken in dyeing and finishing, as PLA
is a linear aliphatic fibre, its resistance to hydrolysis
PLA is even less environmentally costly than other
bio-degradable thermoplastics, since the entire mass
of PLA can eventually be re-converted into new PLA,
whereas many other bio-degradable thermoplastics
incorporate at least some material derived from fossil
fuels.
Dyed Ingeo™ fibres
Comparison with other fibres
When compared to other fibres like cotton, nylon,
From the comparison between the
PET, rayon and silk, the properties that are considered
fibres we can derive some positives
are generally for the yarn forming nature and physical
and mechanical properties (See in table 1). and negatives for PLA fibre.
Positives:
Hydrophilicity
• PLA is the only melt processable natural based polymer
Water molecules have access to the polar oxygen
linkages in the PLA molecule, it has a higher natural • PLA has a lower specific gravity than natural fibres
hydrophilicity than most other thermoplastic polymers, • Optical composition allows control of crystalline
including polypropylene, nylon, and PET. This improves melting point
the wettability of the fibre as well as the moisture • The tenacity of PLA is higher than natural fibres
vapour transmission of fabrics made with PLA fibres, • Moisture regain of PLA is significantly lower than
which allows improvements in “breathability” of natural fibres
garments such as shirts, dresses, underwear, and
• Elastic recovery is superior to all other fibres
shoes. PLA fibres are not as wettable as cotton, but
compared at 5 per cent strain
they can provide moisture transport improvements
when they replace fibres like PET or nylon. • PLA has a lower heat of combustion than PET
• Burns with lower smoke than synthetic polymers
Dyeability compared
Also important to its use in various apparel
• PLA has outstanding UV resistance
applications is PLA’s dyeability. It can be disperse-
dyed using standard PET dyes and dyeing procedure, • PLA has a low refractive index which produces
but again there is a difference between PLA and PET. intense colours on dyeing
PLA’s refractive index is lower than that of PET or • The low contact angle compared with PET leads to
nylon, so it can be dyed to deeper and brighter improved wicking with water
shades. • PLA shows faster moisture spread than PET
Other attractive properties Negatives:
Amazingly for a polymer that is readily consumed by
• Poor alkali resistance causes strength loss in
microbes in composting, PLA does not support conventional disperse dye process
bacterial growth before composting. Finally, PLA’s
• Low crystalline melt temperature leads to low
specific gravity is only 1.25. Since this is less than
ironing temperature
that of PET, and since fibres are sold by the pound and
converted into fabrics sold by length or area, PLA Reduced environmental impact
fibres can replace PET with no increase in cost, even
Ingeo™ fibre leads the way toward producing a wide
if PLA fibres are priced 12 per cent higher.
range of materials from renewable resources, to meet

Fibre property Nylon 6 PET PLA Rayon Cotton Silk Wool

Specific gravity 1.14 1.39 1.25 1.52 1.52 1.34 1.31
Tg ºC 90 125 55 – 60 - - - -
Tm ºC 215 255 130-175 None none none none
Tenacity(g/d) 5.5 2.4 - 7.0 2–6 2.5 4.0 4.0 1.6
Moisture regain per cent 4.1 0.2 - 0.4 0.4-0.6 11 7.5 10 14-18
Elasticity strain 5 per cent 89 65 93 32 52 52 69
Heat of combustion MJ/kg 3.1 25 - 30 19 17 17 - 21
Flammability Medium smoke, High smoke, burn 6 High smoke, burn 2 Burns Burns Burns Burns slowly, self
melts min after flame min after flame extinguishing
removed removed
LOI ( per cent) 20-24 20-22 26-35 17-19 16-17 - 24 – 25
UV resistance Poor Fair Excellent Poor Fair - poor Fair-poor Fair
Refractive index 1.52 1.54 1.35-1.45 1.52 1.53 1.54 1.54
Contact angle 70 82 76 - - - -
Wicking - 0.7-0.8 (no finish) 6.3 - 7.5 (no finish); - - - -
19-26 (after finish)

58 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2011

the world's needs today without compromising the
earth's ability to meet the needs of tomorrow. The
fibre is an environmentally preferable option to
petroleum-based synthetic materials:
1. It uses an annually renewable resource, field corn,
instead of petroleum, to make synthetic materials
2. NatureWorks PLA is the world's first greenhouse-
gas-neutral polymer*
3. Products made with Ingeo™ fibre are compostable
where that attribute is desired
4. From cradle to resin, production of this fibre uses
68 per cent less fossil fuel resources than resins
for traditional synthetic fibres
Drawbacks
Of course, no material has only useful and valuable
properties. But those properties of PLA, which could
be called drawbacks, are relatively few, and some are
even useful for certain applications.
The one property for which we have not found a
promising application is PLA’s relatively poor abrasion
resistance. This may limit or even preclude the use of
PLA fibres in some high-performance apparel
applications, in ropes, or in other uses where abrasion
resistance is required. But in tests to date, it has not
proven severe enough to limit the usefulness of PLA
fibres in carpet.
A second “drawback” is PLA’s relatively low melt
temperature. Even the most crystalline form melts at
about 175°C. This will limit PLA’s applicability in high-
temperature environments, but it is at least high
enough not to preclude ironing and drying in apparel
applications.
Uses and applications
Ingeo™ fibre – an innovative performance fibre ideally
suited for apparel, furnishings and nonwovens
applications is ideal for packaging manufacturing.
Applications using Ingeo™ bio-polymer can be clear,
opaque, flexible or rigid. It provides gloss and clarity
similar to polystyrene, and exhibits tensile strength
and modulus comparable to hydrocarbon-based
thermoplastics.
The fibre can have the look and feel of natural fibres
with a comparable performance to traditional
synthetics. Its natural versatility offers the opportunity
to design new yarns, fabrics and garments for a
contemporary wardrobe in both pure qualities and
innovative blends. A new style of fine woven
lightweights plays with reflections, textures and
transparency. Knitwear begins with refined and
functional weights for home wear, separates and
underwear.
• Versatility Ingeo™ fibre is versatile, available in
both filament and staple spun forms. It can make a
wide variety of textile styles from dress to
sportswear, furnishings to drapes and soft
nonwoven baby wipes to tough landscape textiles
• Performance this fibre can outperform traditional
synthetics for UV light resistance, hypoallergenic
properties, outstanding moisture management,
stain resistance, low odour retention, easy care/
quick dry, breathability, comfort and insulation
properties
This fibre is used in many different apparel applications: Jersey dressing
Contemporary sports and casual wear – T-shirts, Fashion driven - special aesthetics - deluxe touch -
fleece and jeans. Functional fashion separates- unique character - sensual drape - filament sheen
shirting, trousers, duvet jackets, jersey dressing and
essential next-to-skin items such as underwear and Key performances
Versatility: The fibre is available in both staple and
hosiery. Ingeo™ fibre can also be used in new fibrefill
filament forms in a wide variety of counts from a
blends for thermal wadding that offers unique natural
insulation properties. micro denier for the finest lightest fabrics to higher
counts for more robust applications
T-shirt
Practicality: Can machine wash Ingeo™ fibre products.
Contemporary - iconic - everyday - unique - performing
They show good soil release, are quick drying, and
- easywear - comfort - quick dry - low odour
have excellent after wash appearance. There is no
Key performances need to iron.
Moisture wicking: Ingeo™ fibre wicks, (transports Duvet jacket
moisture) better than a wide range of other synthetic Functional - summer shell/winter duvet - unique
fibres. aesthetics - performing - lightweight - comfort - warm
Comfort: This has proved to be quicker dry than all - cool
the other competitive fibres.
Key performances
Confidence: This fibre does not allow bacteria
Unique luster and touch: Ingeo™ filament fabrics have
proliferation and therefore offers exceptional low odour
retention. a subtle luster and fluid drape with a natural hand
offering a beautiful new material to stimulate creativity.
Shirting Warmth and loft: The fibre has a soft, fluffy feel and
Classics reborn - easy wear - comfort - quick dry - after it's compressed, it easily returns to its bulky
new touch - iron free appearance. It provides the outstanding insulating
Key performances performance properties.
Easy care: It's possible either to wash or dry clean Performance underwear
garments made from Ingeo™ fibre. Insulating- dry fit - easy care - low odour - lightweight
It is ideal for today's life: It has natural resilience and - moisture - management
holds its shape well over time lighter
Key performances
Touch: Ingeo™ fibre has an unusual light, dry hand Confidence: Low odour
feel.
Fabrics from Ingeo™ fibres
Fabric Mfg Description
Avelana Plain woven fabrics in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre for fashion separates
Bel Maille Weft knit fabrics in 100 per cent fibre piece dye for the high fashion market
Chia Her A small range of woven fabrics combining Ingeo™ fibre with wool and cotton in twists
and slub yarns
Cotonificio Veneto Fleece and garment dyed jersey double face fabrics in Ingeo™ fibre mixed with cotton
Everwin A range of fabrics in Ingeo™ fibre blended with cotton
Figli di Michelangelo A range of different fabric structures: corded fabrics, interlock, fleece in 100 per cent
Calamai Ingeo™ fibre and vanisé with Ingeo™ fibre blended with cotton
Fountain Set A new range of nearly 40 jersey fabrics in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre solid piece dye,
and in Ingeo™ fibre blended with cotton including a small range of heather mixtures
Gipitex New range of woven filament outerwear - a specialist filament mill working in
partnership with Ingeo™ fibre to uncover the full potential of new yarns, structures
and finishes
Louis Vidon A range of very light weft knit fabrics in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre for intimate
wear garments
Mario Cucchetti Jersey qualities in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre and blends with cotton
Pontetorto Fleece and interlock in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre; double face jersey combined with
Ingeo™ fibre cotton and wool
Radici Tessuti A range of woven fabrics in 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre and blended with cotton and
linen with waterproof membrane laminate finishes
Tessitura Romanò A range of 100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre woven fabrics
Tintex A range of super smooth jersey fabrics (Interlock, rib, single jersey and fleece) in
100 per cent Ingeo™ fibre
APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2011 59
 Comfort: Dry fit, moisture management, natural touch
Easy care: Quick dry, no iron
Future
As it can be seen, only few applications for the unique
property set offered by PLA fibres. Many more
applications are likely to arise just from the properties
discussed above. But there is also still quite a bit of
investigation to be done regarding the properties of
the polymer and fibres made from it. With future
discoveries in polymer and fibre properties and future
developments in appropriate applications for the
fibres, we expect the use of PLA fibres to expand
rapidly in the next several years. It seems likely that,
as it matures, PLA will eventually find acceptance in
an array of applications as broad as PET, nylon, and
polypropylene. PLA is also being used in the packing
and plastic industries. If the fibre production from
corn is commercialised, there is a great scope for the
fibres to replace fossil fuel fibres like PET, nylon; thus
reducing the carbon emissions in the atmosphere
and also providing excellent properties.
Brands using Ingeo™ fibre products are:
• Armani, men’s and women’s fashion brand (Italy)
• Franco Francesca, Italian fashion brand and designer
(Italy)
• Kei Kagami, avant-garde fashion designer (UK)
• Linda Loudermilk, eco luxury designer (USA)
presenting a range of garments made of Ingeo™
(USA)
60 APPAREL VIEWS / JANUARY 2011
• Nadia Fassi, Italian fitness brand using Ingeo™ in
their key woman line (Italy)
• REI, hiking socks from outdoor sports retailers (USA)
• Versace, luxury fashion brand (Italy)
• Diesel, jeans wear fashion brand (Italy)
Conclusion
This fibre is a novel product that combines the best of
both worlds: The performance of a synthetic fibre and
the advantages of a natural material. Ingeo™ fibre
provides one of the best options for society to become
more environmentally-friendly and responsible. This
successful blend of environmental soundness,
aesthetic appeal and proven performance are
combining to propel Ingeo™ fibre products to affirmed
international success. Today, there are many leading
manufacturers around the world actively developing
products made from Ingeo™. Products are already on
the market and available for purchase in places like
the US, Japan, and Europe. made products. This fibre has completely
It is helping humanity decrease its dependency on revolutionised the textile world and allowed the
petroleum and given the textile world an opportunity companies to be environmentally responsible
to manufacture products without the need for Thinking bio-renewable? Think corn! Think…
petroleum. In addition, this fibre production emits 60
per cent to 80 per cent less greenhouse gases into
the atmosphere. It is made from 100 per cent natural By Vasant R Kothari, Assistant Professor,
NIFT, Bangalore & S.Vaithilingam,
resources that can be grown as quickly as one year. MFTech, NIFT Bangalore (Author can be
The best alternative down comforter can only be made contacted @ www.vasantkothari.com)
of a natural resource fibre such as Ingeo™ and still
provide the same quality and comfort as other man