‘Managing Quality in

Decentralised Manufacturing’
Presentation Coverage:
aIndian apparel manufacturing: Few Facts
aCan quality be assured in decentralised
manufacturing?
aProduct Vs. Process approach to QA
aProcess Capability Model
aApplication of process model to apparel
industry
'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
Q: Why do you face quality
problems?
A: We have no problems
at our end but our
suppliers don’t
understand quality /
sub-contractors are not
bothered about quality
and so on….
'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
We must answer following
questions before going
ahead
aCan we afford to sit back and give
excuses for our quality problems?
aCan quality apparel be produced by
fabricators?
aUltimately who is answerable to buyers
about the product quality?
'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
 Apparel Industry: Few Facts
•Order quantities are reducing continually
•Labor controlled, not machine controlled
processes
•Varied raw material
•Seasonal products with low shelf life
•Largely decentralized manufacturing
•Buyers are asking for in-house factories

'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
Role of Fabricators

aFlexible manufacturing capacity

aGood at manual value addition
aAccept low volume complex styles
aBackbone of Delhi fashion apparel
exporting industry
aItalian textile & apparel industry uses
decentralised manufacturing effectively
'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
Quality Assurance for
Standard Product

aDedicated facility for a product is must.

Can plan detailed QA procedures and train
people in specialist jobs.
aProcesses are well planned in advance
with control parameters in place
aRandom sampling inspection at the end
can be used to assess product quality
aPlanners are different from implementers
'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
Key to Quality in Fashion
Apparel Mfg. :Process
Capability

aWithout Process capability Quality can not

be expected
aIt is the responsibility of top management
to ensure the process capability of
different process groups

'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
 PROCESS MODEL FOR SEWING

MOTIVATED PEOPLE
QUALITY QUALITY
INPUT OUTPUT
KNOW-HOW

= SKILLS =
RAW MATERIAL TRAINING PROCESSED
COMPONENT
+ PLANT & MACHINERY OR
SPECIFICATIONS GARMENTS

'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
 PROCESS CHAIN

OUTPUT

INPUT

PROCESS ‘A’ PROCESS ‘B’

Three Golden Rules

• Output of previous process becomes input to next process.
• No substandard input to be given to any process.
• No process shall allow sub standard output to come out.

'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
Is average fabricator
process capable?

aNo, but they can be made process capable

aWe need to find out the deficiency
aTo get the solutions we need to think non-
traditionally
aAlso check the quality of inputs to
fabricators

'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
Suggestions for improving
inputs
aStart in-house cutting, don’t issue fabric
aCut interlining with die or band knife
aCarry out in-house fusing
aProvide right needles, thread etc.
aGraphic specifications in local language
aMultiple templates for pocket, collar etc.
aSet up special operation cell
aEnclosed transport for Cut parts
'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
Helping Achieve Process
Capability
aProvide machine maintenance support
aNeed based technical support & training
by master or outside expert
a Improve illumination level ( use of
inverters, for lights and fans)
aEncourage cleanliness to avoid stains
aProvide attachments & lease special
machines
'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
The Benefits

aPromotes Knowledge Workers

aRight first time
aReduced Inspection
aIncreased Flexibility
aMinimum Repairs and Rejects
aIncreased Productivity

'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
 Reasons for Failure
•Do not have a clear quality policy nor do they
demonstrate commitment to quality
•Employees of these organizations are well aware
of the ‘Chalta Hai’ approach of the management
•To the extent possible they would like to blame
others for the quality problems of their merchandise

'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000
 Reasons for Failure
•Belief that Quality starts with inspection and ends
with inspection
•Mainly quantity driven targets for the departments
•Departmental goals may not synergise with
organizational goal
•Have no idea about the Cost of Quality in their
organization
'Doorsamvad', presentation by
Professor Rajesh Bheda , GMT
Deptt, NIFT 2/5/2000