Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
-Introduction-
Welcome to part one of a two part series on the design and construction of my wooden electric bicycle.
This booklet will map the entire design process of the bike, from initial inspiration taken from the
Scrambler Motorcycles of the past, to a completed wooden bicycle design. Having had no previous
experience or knowledge of bicycle design/engineering/construction, electric motors/batteries or
engineering in general, this will not only be a design book, but a practical handbook documenting all the
technical knowledge I have gained over this project. From head tube types, fork rake geometry, drop out
types to motor size and battery capacity, I hope to show how all my design choices were shaped and
informed by my technical research. Book two in the series will document the entire construction process
of the bike.
-Design Proposal-
In response to the recent rise in popularity of vintage cycle design as well as the developing consumer
interest in sustainable and natural materials I hope to build a bike that fits nicely into this product
market. I also plan to publish plans for the bike, with written instructions and downloadable CNC files.
The bike will be designed in Rhino 3D, with the main frame designed specifically for CNC machining. The
finished bike is intended for leisure use, with the motor providing the primary source of movement.
-Contents-
I. History of the scrambler motorcycle
II. What Type of Wood is best for bike construction?
III. Plywood Research
IV. MDF Research
V. Battery
VI. Metals
VII. Drop out and Hub Research
VIII. Head Tube
IX. Bottom Bracket
X. Motor
XI. Seat
XII. My Design
XIII. Purchase List
The History of Scrambler Motorcycles
My initial design idea was inspired by the Triumph TR6 Trophy Scrambler motorcycle that Steve
McQueen rides in the Great Escape film. Moving on from this, I began researching into the history of the
Scrambler motorcycle and looking into what exactly makes a scrambler motorcycle a Scrambler.
I was also inspired after reading the book “Lone Rider” by Elspeth Beard who was the first woman to
motorcycle around the world in the 1970s. Her bike was a 1974 BMW R60/6.
The Scrambler is designed for off-road/on-road motorcycling with some specifically meant for off-road
terrain. The main characteristics on these bikes are: Lightweight, Long suspensions, high ground
clearance and study frames. Their design favors utility over form, but I feel this lends them a simple
beauty. The precursor to the scrambler motorcycle was the Cafe racer motorcycle. The History of these
bikes goes back to the 1920s in England where club racers would engage in point-to-point racing.
Participants in this sport would modify standard motorcycles to be able to withstand the extreme
requirements of the race track. Cafe racer motorcycles were designed for speed and rugged strength.
Primarily, the design would feature turned-down handle bars to allow the rider to lay as flat as possible
in line with the motorcycle and minimise air resistance, the frames would also be lightweight and high
off the ground. Races developed to include off road terrain and became known as "hare scrambles"
where competitors complete multiple laps of a track that includes wooded or other rugged terrain. The
term “hare scrambler” (and therefore “scrambler motorcycle”) is said to have originated when a sports
commentator described an early race as "a rare old scramble”. The main difference between a Cafe Racer
and a Scrambler is in the frame design, where a cafe will have a more race bike ergonomics while a
scrambler has more upright bars and relaxed driving position.
Back in the day, there were no “dirt bikes”; you had to build your own out of a regular road bike, and that’s how the
scrambler was born.
The closest modern day equivalent to both the Cafe Racer and the Scrambler would be either a dual
sport or motocross bike. In the 1970s, production of the Scrambler motorcycle almost ceased when the
dirt bike entered the scene and it is only since the early 2000s when the Scrambler design began to gain
popularity again. Nowadays it is enjoying a full renaissance, especially amongst custom bike fanatics.
Ducati and Triumph are currently the most popular brands producing a modern Scrambler style
motorcycle. The Ducati Classic and the Triumph Street Classic are their most popular models currently.
Scrambler racing also became
a popular pastime for teens in
the 50/60s as seen in this
video from British Pathe.
“Scrambling Kids (1962)”
Some footage from a national Scrambler
championship event in Shrewsbury.
My Design Inspiration
My design will draw inspiration
from the Yamaha SR250
Scrambler. This SR250 is one of
the most popular donor bikes for
custom Scrambler motorcycle
fabrication today - described as
the “perfect donor” by Bike
Bound Magazine. The bike's
design lends itself to
modification and it’s quality
components, reliable engine and
solid frame make it a perfect
bike to customize.
SR250 Engine
Advert for the Yamaha SR250
Yamaha SR250 Brat Tracker by MUTO Motorbikes.
The Space Hopper by CMBL
Specs for the 78: Motor: Super73 36V 250w motor, satin black finish, Top Speed: 25km/h (PAS), Battery: 313 watt-hours,
Panasonic cells, Weight: 25.4 Kg (w/ battery), Tires: F+R 20" x 4", Slick street tires.
The designs for these bikes will help me in developing my own design. In particular, I will be looking at
researching:
-Seat/handlebar configuration
-Battery size
-Wheel size
-Motor type
-Range
Titan R2
Tempus Electric was set up by Ryerson engineering student Ikenna Ofoha in Toronto. The design is more
closely related to a Cafe Racer with its lower set handlebars and seat, however the configuration of the
bike in regards to battery placement and wheel distance will still be useful for my design research.
Specs:
● 52v 13Ah
● 1000W Rear Hub Motor
● Aircraft Grade Chromoly steel frame
● 24inch by 3 inch wide all terrain tires
Vintage Electric
Vintage Electric’s ebike was one of the first
true Scrambler electric bicycles I’d ever seen
and it’s design and look were what really
inspired me to make my own. I especially love
how they have integrated the battery so fully
into the design and made it look similar to a
real motorcycle engine. The big bulb light on
the front is also something I want to carry over
into my design.
The riding position however is not ideal as the seat
is quite low to the ground, making pedaling quite
difficult as seen here.
The Stroler
The Stroler is a two seater electric commuter bike. It
is probably the least Scrambler-looking bike we have
so far looked at and though it may have sacrificed
looks for functionality it will still be a useful bike to
look at for my design. The company is based in
Austria and their design is based on the first
Austrian-made two-seater moped named the Lohner
Sissy as seen below. The bike is designed for
practicality and has a large 48v battery and 8 litre
storage capacity.
Specs:
Frame: Steel
Storage: 8 Litre stowage space, lockable
Wheel: 26″x2.15 with reflector stripes
Battery: LiIon 48V, 11Ah, 672 Wh
Maximum Speed: 25km/h legally defined
Weight: 34,5 kg
RCR - 72v
These guys are based in San Francisco and started their company through a kickstarter campaign. The
bike is insanely powerful with a 72 V, 1.58 kWh battery and 5.4 kW motor (which actually wouldn’t be
legal in the UK). The Scrambler style design is very close to how I want my final bike to look so I will be
looking very closely and the bike dimeons and pedal/seat configuration.
Huck Motorcycles
This company is the brainchild of Brett McCoy who began producing these bikes from his garage
workshop. The company is still relatively small, providing a custom-made service and only producing
around 50 bikes a month. This bike would also not be legal in the UK it’s motor is 750w and anything
above 250w in the UK has to be registered and the rider would have to have a motorcycle license. As this
design is closest to how I want my own bike to look, I will be using this bike to base my initial designs
on. As this design has been tried and tested, including the pedal spacing, seat placement and fork rake I
can be confident that (as well as combining research of other bikes) my bike will have the correct
dimensions.
What Type of Wood is Best for Bike Construction?
To begin, we will look at examples of other wooden bikes and the techniques and materials that were
used in their construction. We will then look at specific types of wood in more detail and explore how
they might be used in other situations.
Rocise Electric Bike
Let's first take a look the Rocsie electric bike, the specs of which are as listed below:
-Weight of Bike: 6.2 Stone
-Battery: 48v 20Ah
-Average Speed: 18mph
-Top Speed: 28mph
-Motor Size: 1000w Hubmotor
-Range: 24 miles
The Rocsie is electric, sporting a huge 2000w hub motor and a battery of 20Ah - a proper beast.
Unfortunately it seems the website and social media pages for the bike have been inactive since around
2017 which probably indicates that the venture didn’t work out. However this shall not stop us admiring
the beautiful design and incredible amount of work that went into this bike.
The frame of the bike is made from Beech and shaped using bent wood lamination. Let us take a look at
how bent wood lamination works:
When it comes to shaping wood into curves, you have two main options: Steam Bending and Bent Wood
Lamination. Solid wood is incredibly strong however this structural strength depends on the integrity of
the grain. If you were to cut a curve in a straight-grained piece of wood, you would create areas of
extreme weakness in the piece as the curve will cut across the grain. This is why we have to use one of
the techniques mentioned above. Both techniques are different, but achieve the same result - allowing
the grain to flow with the curved piece rather than cut across. Steam bending involves heating and
moisturising the wood with steam until it becomes flexible and can be bent to shape, while bent wood
lamination involves gluing thin strips of wood together and clamping them to, or between, a shaped
form. Let’s look at this technique in more detail.
Bent Wood Lamination
The principle for bent wood lamination is simple - thinner
strips of wood are easier to bend than thicker ones. When
cut, each strip is glued together and clamped to (or
sandwiched between) a curved form. When the glue dries,
the laminated piece can be removed from the form and it
will keep its shape. Laminated bent wood pieces generally
hold their shape better than ones that have been steam
bent. One of the drawbacks in using this technique however
is that when cutting the strips from a solid piece of wood,
you lose quite a lot of the material to the kerf of the saw
blade. Many suggest a polyurethane, epoxy or resin glue
work best for lamination, however standard PVA wood glue
is also used by many woodworkers.
Let's take a quick look at steam bending:
Steam bending wood is a process that uses steam to
produce moisture and heat which makes the wood
become more flexible. The piece is usually left for some
hours in a steam chamber and then clamped into a
form. Once the wood has dried out, it can be removed
from the form and will hold its shape. As the technique
usually involves bending a solid piece of wood, the grain
pattern will be continuous and there will be no glue lines
as with bent wood lamination. This method also creates
a lot less waste. Steam bending however is notoriously
difficult to get right as you are very much dependent on
the quality of the wood. Defects in the grain as well as
knots etc can create problems when bending and cause
the wood to tear apart or splinter. Steam bent wood is
also more likely to lose its shape (a process called
creep) than bent wood lamination. When using this
technique it is best to find timber with a straight grain
as well as cut pieces with no run-out (grain run-out refers to areas in a board where the grain ends along
the edge). Air dried stock rather kiln dried is better to use with steam bending. If you are using kiln dried
wood, it's a good idea to soak the timber in water for no less than 24hrs before putting it in the steam
chamber.
Now let us take a closer look at the wood they used for Rocsie - European Beech
European Beech usually has a pale cream color
with a tight, straight, grain. The wood becomes
darker if exposed to higher drying temperatures or
when exposed to steam. Beech is one of the best
woods for steam bending. It is easy to machine
and work, however sharp blades must be used to
ensure the cut surface does not burn. The Wood
Database states “Beech is an important and
widely-used hardwood in Europe. Its hardness,
wear-resistance, strength, and excellent bending
capabilities—coupled with its low
price—make this hardwood a mainstay for many European woodworkers.” If Beech is plain sawn the
surface tends to be very simple and plain, while quarter sawn pieces have a lovely silvery fleck pattern. A
Beech tree can grow to around 35m in height with diameters ranging from 40-90cm. Toys are often
made from beech as it is such a strong and hard wearing wood. I don’t particularly like the appearance
of Beech on it’s own, but paired with a warmer, more delicately figured wood will bring out it’s simple
beauty. Its extensive use in the cheap furniture market may also have had some influence on my
negative feeling towards the wood. It’s straight grain can also make it feel a little too uniform and dull.
Now for some sweet sweet eye candy let’s look at a few other Beech wood projects.
Beech Pendulum
Beech Mud Guard
Beech Toy
Teak Desk With
Beech Draws
Volk Bikes
Volk bikes are based in South Africa
and are a small company run by
Daniel Hoffman who believes that
bikes are an “instrument of freedom"
(I definitely agree!). He aims to build
wooden bikes which are
environmentally friendly and use
materials from sustainable sources.
The Volk bike is built from a
combination of ash (which I think is
American White) and Beech which is
CNC milled and reinforced with
carbon fibre in some areas.
There are also some great behind the scenes pics on his Instagram page:
American White Ash is a hardwood. The sapwood has a white to pale
yellow appearance while the heartwood can be light to dark brown. The
wood is quite dense and has a straight rather coarse grain, is very
strong, shock resistant and if treated with preservative it can be used
outdoors. It’s also great for steam bending and is a very stable timber
once dry.
I also want to take a moment to profile the
European Ash tree whose wood has been
used for centuries in Europe. Its strength,
durability and shock absorbent properties
make it one of the most popular timbers
amongst woodworkers to this day. Ash has
been used to make wagon wheels, baseball
bats as well as in the creation of The Dandy
Horse - a contraption regarded as a
precursor to the bicycle. In the book “The
Man Who Made Things Out of Trees” Robert
Penn explores all the possible things one
could make from a single ash tree. I also
recently found an article Penn wrote in which
he interviews Liam Murray of Woodelo, a
company based in Ireland who build bikes
from.. You guessed it.. Ash! In talking about
the choice of material Murrays says: “Ash
timber is used in the manufacture of hurling
sticks in Ireland. So we knew about it’s
strength, and it’s easy enough to machine. It
seemed an obvious choice, so we had a go
[...] It’s lovely material to work with. It’s very
tactile and we can machine it and
strengthen it where we want. But really, we
use it because it dampens the road like
nothing else. It’s better than a carbon frame
in my opinion” Let us take a quick look at
some awesome European Ash woodworking
projects before looking at Woodelo in more
detail.
Check out these items below which are all made from Ash.
And how could we forget Bruce Springsteen’s custom Fender with its beautiful ash body and maple
neck. The man has good taste. “It still is unique amongst all my guitars the way it sounds [...] For me,
when I put it on, I don’t feel like I have a guitar on. It’s such an integral part of me.” - Bruce Springsteen.
Woodelo Bikes
Liam Murray who runs Woodelo bikes says that one of the great
advantages of using wood is that it allows for such fine tuning of
each individual frame, from adding extra material in places where it
is needed to changing the direction of the grain, the weight and feel
of the bike can be tweaked and refined to suit the individual
completely. Woodelo use laminated wood to create the chain-stays
which ensures strength while also keeping thickness and weight to
a minimum. Murray says he chose to work with the wood as Ash is
one of the more flexible hardwoods and is extremely good at
absorbing vibration. The selection of the timber they use is one of
the most important steps in building a successful bike and they
make sure to choose timber with a straight grain, few knots and
from a healthy tree. Woodelo also only use the sapwood of the tree
to build the frames because “as a tree gets older the heart[wood] develops a browny red timber which
has different characteristics and would affect the balance of our frames”. The wood they use is from
trees of around 30-40 years old. Apparently in Ireland, such timber is called “Hurley Ash” as wood of this
age is also used for making the playing sticks in the Gaelic sport of Hurling. Woodelo also only use
quarter sawn planks to construct the frame as they try and maximize the amount of continuous grain
that runs through the boards.
Since we mentioned “Quarter Sawn” lumber, let's take a closer look at what this term actually means
and the larger subject of timber production. Unfortunately this is quite a complicated subject and there
seems to be as many names and techniques for cutting logs down to lumber as there are tree species,
there are also different standards depending on which country you live in. As I’m from the UK I'll be
focusing on the techniques we use in this country.
The two main cuts produced by modern machine methods
are “Quarter Sawn” and “Plain Sawn”. Plain sawn boards are
cut at a tangent to the growth rings of the tree and this cut
produces boards with decorative, elliptical, catedral figures.
Quarter sawing produces a board with straight grain where
the growth rings are angled at almost 90 degrees to the
surface. This cut produces boards which are more
structurally strong and stable. Oak is a popular wood to
quarter saw as it reveals attractive ribbon like patterns
through the wood. In general however, Plain sawn lumber
produces the most attractive figure.
Plain Sawn
Plain Sawn timber Is the most widely available and
cheapest sawn timber to buy. Plain sawing a log is quick
and easy and requires the least specialised machinery as
the log is just sliced into planks along its length, it is also
the least wasteful method. Plain sawn timber however also
has its drawbacks which include less structural strength
and less stability than quarter sawn timber. Due to the
tangential grain of plain sawn timber, when the wood
begins to dry the tension of the tangential grain can make
the planks cup, twist and bow quite significantly. Plain
sawn planks also tend to absorb more water from the air
which may cause unwanted movement.
Summary:
● Faster to produce
● More affordable
● Displays varied grain patterns &
the unique "cathedral" appearance
● Readily available
● Quarter Sawn
Quarter Sawn
Quarter sawn timber is much more stable than Plain sawn
timber, however more time and advanced equipment is
required to cut a quarter sawn board. A plank which is
quarter sawn will have the grain running at almost 90
degrees from the surface making it much less susceptible to
warping and cupping and a straight running grain. There is
much more waste involved when using this method as not
all of the log can be used.
Summary:
● More stable than plain sawn lumber
● Increased moisture resistance
● Less likely to cup, twist & warp
● Beautiful ribbon aka "fleck" patterns
are prevalent in species like White Oak & Red Oak
● Less expensive than rift sawn lumber
Rift sawn lumber is the most expensive out of the three as it incurs the most waste and is the hardest to
cut. When timber is rift sawn the grain of the wood will be angled at exactly 90 degrees from the surface.
This method is best used when you need to maximise the strength of the wood and ensure it has
straight grain going all the way through.
As a general rule:
-Plain Sawn = Less Expensive, but less stable (prone to warping, expansion and contraction), with more
attractive grain patterns
-Quarter Sawn = More expensive, but more stable with straight grain.
Here is an example of how quarter sawn and plain sawn
timber is affected by the grain orientation.
Now here are some wonderful pictures of the Woodelo bike:
Some lovely custom dropouts...
Walnut Road Bike
This magnificent road bike was
made by Jake who has very kindly
posted an instructable about how he
went about making it! It took him
around 5 month to complete, but I
think you will agree the outcome was
definitely worth it. To create the
frame he first laminated a total of 8
layers of black walnut of 6mm
thickness. The frame is completely
made from wood (no carbon fibre
inserts), but uses metal for the
mechanical components such as the
dropouts and bottom bracket. He
also used the front forks from his old
bike as these will receive a lot of
abuse, something I plan to do in my
own design. To begin the build he
began designing the frame in solidworks, using his old bike as a guide to get the correct dimensions. He
stresses that the seat post, steerer and bottom bracket are all important sizes to get right. Once
designed he began to cut the strips of wood that would make up the laminated frame of the bike. By
layering the wood with the grain facing in different directions, you can create a frame that is incredibly
strong and resistant to shock. From what I can understand, he layered the walnut strips at alternate 45
degree angles on top of each other, creating two halves of the frame that would later be glued together.
Once he finished laminating both pieces, he hollowed out some areas and then glued them both
together to create the finished frame. For the chain stays and seat stays he used the bent wood
lamination technique we talked about earlier.
The Finished Bike
Black walnut is native to eastern North America and is one
of the most popular hardwoods amongst american
woodworkers. The European walnut is also extremely
popular amongst carpenters across the pond, but the
wood from this tree tends to be quite a bit lighter. The
Black Walnut’s botanical name is the Junglans Nigra and
is one of two main species from the Junglans genus, with
the other being the European Walnut (called the Juglans
Reiga). Interestingly, the origin of the Juglans name comes
from the roman god Juipter who was said to have dined on
walnuts when he lived on Earth - pretty cool eh? Black
walnut is prized for its height and width as well as the impressive strength and durability of the wood. In
distinguishing the tree from its European brother, we can look at the bark which is far darker and more
heavily ridged. The black walnut also has a greater number of leaves which are far thinner and smaller.
In 1629 the tree was introduced to Europe and has thrived in the south of England ever since. The light
sapwood of the Black walnut contrasts beautifully with the richly hued heartwood which often features
even darker streaks.
Komar Project - Wooden Low Rider Bike
This guy is very cool. When he began this incredible laminated bent wood bike build, he didn’t know
much about bikes, their construction, mechanics or bent wood lamination! But look at what he
managed to achieve - a wonderful, organic, flowing bike frame which is completely made from wood. Not
only is this feat pretty amazing, he also created a fantastic video documenting the whole process! This
is what I love about the online maker community - a place where an almost endless supply of
inspiration and knowledge can be found. So, now onto the bike build - The frame is made from
laminated strips of walnut and maple which he formed using a series of jigs and many, many clamps.
As well as creating the frame from scratch, Komar also made his own custom drop outs and head tubes
from sheet metal and tubing. Welding is definitely something I must learn more about. He also built the
head forks for the bike combining both steam bending and lamination techniques, though for my bike I
think I’ll use metal forks as wooden ones might be a little too fragile (especially as mine is going to be a
high powered electric bike).
The Finished Bike
White Oak vs Red Oak
Hickory
One of the reasons I’ve chosen to look at this wood next
is that I heard Nick Offerman (*the most famous
celebrity woodworker***besides Harrison Ford***)
mention it quite a bit in his interviews/books. Other
than this, I don’t know much about Hickory, so let's take
a look. Hickory is known as the hardest of hardwoods, so
hard in fact that after the Battle of New Orleans in 1815,
General Andrew Jackson was nicknamed “Old Hickory”
by his soldiers as he had fought so tenaciously.
Historically, Hickory was used by the Native Indians for
bows and baskets and was also used to build the wheel
spokes of the first automobiles! North America is home
to some 16 species of Hickory, but the one most
commercially available is the Shagbark Hickory. The
sapwood is white to cream colored while the heartwood
is a tannish red brown. There is a stark contrast between
the sapwood and heartwood which visually sets it apart
from other hardwoods, this characteristic is popular with furniture makers and pieces are often
designed to showcase this particular trait. Hickory is regarded as stronger, denser and harder than both
White Oak and Hard Maple and is often used in situations where strength and shock-resistance are
needed. The wood takes stain and oil very well as it is so dry, but this also means it can split quite easily.
The hardness of Hickory makes it a tough wood to work and can blunt machine tools very quickly -
carbide tips are a must. It’s grain is coarse and straight. Hickory has a slow growth rate and can take up
to 200 years to mature.
Cherry (Cherry Sweet Caroline)
The Cherry we are talking about here is the North American kind,
also called Black Cherry. In Europe we have Sweet Cherry, but the
wood from this tree is only usually sold in smaller sizes or veneer.
The fruit of the black cherry is small and bitter and is used to
flavour jelly and drinks, though commercially its grown mostly for
its lumber. Cherry is one of the most popular hardwoods and is
known for its good all-around workability. The grain is straight
with a fine, uniform texture and machines well, but it does have a
tendency to burn so best to use carbide tipped blades. The heartwood is a light, pinkish brown when
first cut, but with aging and exposure to sunlight this changes to a dark orange-red (not too dissimilar
to Mahogany). The sapwood is a light cream color which never changes to match the dark heartwood.
Though Black Cherry is lighter and less hard than Maple, it still matches in strength and stability. Cherry
takes glue well, though one must take care to minimize squeeze-out as it can marr a clear finish.
Plywood
Despite the time I put into researching what type of wood is best for bike construction, I have decided to
use plywood instead, due to the reasons outlined below:
1. Expense: In an ideal world, I would have liked to have created the frame using laminated and
steam bent Ash and Walnut, however due to cost limitations this was not possible.
2. Weight: Plywood has incredible strength to weight characteristics. For the central part of the
frame which serves only to support the outer pieces, extermital strength is not so important and
I can use poplar ply. Poplar ply is extremely light and will reduce the final weight of the bike
significantly. For the exterior parts of the frame (which support the headcase and rear dropouts) I
will use birch ply which is exceptionally strong and vibration absorbent. Though ply can be
heavier than wood in many cases (due to the heavy, usually resin based adhesives they use to
glue the layers together) it is due to the fact that I can use a combination of softwood and
hardwood ply for the frame that makes it a lighter choice. I would not be able to use softwood
sheets of normal wood as though this would be light, it would not be strong enough.
3. Strength: This may be the most important one. Plywood is exceptionally strong as it is laminated
in such a way that the grain of each layer opposes the next. My bike has been designed in such a
way to capitalize on this, especially when it comes to the exterior layers which will support a lot
of the weight. The design would not work with wood as it has unidirectional grain which would
leave many weak points in the frame.
Garnica
Garnica has developed plywood that is ultra
light-weight. I plan to use their plywood to
create my bike as the company is well known
for their sustainable production methods as
well as product quality. They produce mostly
poplar plywood as their production facility is in
the center of a huge poplar forest resource. Due
to a combination of modern production
methods, extended processing time and glue
type they produce a plywood that is stronger,
yet lighter than anything else on the market.
Ultralight
One of the plywood types they produce is called “Ultralight” which has a polystyrene core making it the
lightest plywood available anywhere. This does, of course affect its strength, so while I cannot use it on
this project, I feel like it will be a good one to keep in mind for others in the future.
-Density 270 Kg/m3
-It has an extruded polystyrene core
-The 18 mm panels are 45% lighter while the 60 mm panels
can be up to 75% lighter
than standard poplar plywood
-High-quality XPS core: exceptional thermal insulation,
high mechanical resistances, low weight, high water
tolerance, uniform seal and cellular structure
Duraply (maple)
This ply has a maple top layer with a poplar core. It’s meant for
outdoor use and is slightly heavier than the others as it has
been treated for exterior conditions.
-Density 440 Kg/m3 - 550 Kg/m3
-No need to finish
-High durability decorative panel for use in demanding humid
conditions. Composed of sustainable plantation wood and
covered with maple faces, pale pink in tone and with reddish
brown streaked grain.
Efficiency
This ply is made completely of poplar and is meant for interior use,
though if treated it can be used outdoors. As it is made entirely of
poplar, it is incredibly lightweight and would be perfect for the
internal layers of my bike which will be sandwiched together and each
layer won’t have to support much weight by itself.
● Density 420 Kg/m3 - 450 Kg/m3
● Would have to finish with protective layer
Elegance
Similar to Efficiency, but this one has a maple facing sheet
making it a little heavier.
● Density 440 Kg/m3 - 490 Kg/m3
Performance
I can’t quite tell what the difference is between this one and
Efficiency. I think this may have an exterior treatment on the
exterior faces making it a little heavier.
● Density 420 Kg/m3 - 480 Kg/m3
● Lightweight panel composed entirely of poplar.
Here are some calculations for how heavy the frame will be. The Internal frame weight relates to the
poplar frame parts, while the external frame is the exterior layers of frame made from birch ply.
Internal Frame Weight. Weight in meters cubed of the internal frame: 0.01082670
Performance Efficiency Duraply
3.2kg - 4kg
Wisa plywood - How it’s made
The Garnica Plywood Plant is based in Valencia
Spain
The plant is surrounded by the
largest poplar wood wood source in
the iberian peninsula
Logs come into the workshop..
Logs are stipped of their bark
Dryers take the moisture level of the ply
sheets from 120% to 6%
A computer classify the sheets into
grades
Once it has been graded it then gets
pressed in their 24 plate hot press
which is capable of making 200m2
of plywood sheets each day.
Their facilities were designed
specifically for their needs and it is
much more efficient than most
plywood manufacturing plants.
Plywood production
process in general.
MDF Clamp - Glueing the Frame
As this is one the most important stages of the build, I want to ensure it is done well and goes smoothly.
There's nothing worse than a stressful glue up!
My first thought was to simply purchase a few more clamps and hope that this would provide enough
clamping pressure to ensure an even glue up, however after further research I decided this was not such
a good idea for the following reasons:
● Cost: Clamps are fairly cheap, but when you need 20+ the cost definitely adds up.
● Glueing Pressure: As the glue area is so large reaching an even clamping pressure all the way
around would be difficult. “Pinch” sports would surely arise where there is more pressure in some
areas while others don’t receive any at all.
● Misalignment: The clamps may cause the frame pieces to shift out of place
Solution:
I decided the best solution
would be to create an mdf
clamp that sandwiches the
frame pieces. The clamp
has holes that follow the
profile of the frame and
through which 200mm
bolts will be threaded
through and used to
tighten the whole thing
together. This method will
ensure an even and
consistent glueing
pressure all the way
around. It will also be much
less stressful as I won't
have to worry about
tightening and adjusting
separate clamps.
The larger frame pieces I will drill holes following the outline of the frame though two sheets of mdf,
sandwich the frame between these two sheets, thread some bolts through these holes then clamp this
together.
Rhino Model:
Glues? What Glue Should I use
There are two options:
● Epoxy
● Wood Glue (water free)
Epoxy
I really would like to avoid using epoxy for the following reasons:
1. Expense. As I will be gluing such a large area, I am going to
need a large amount of glue. Though you can buy tubes of epoxy
glue for small jobs, once you start getting into the larger
quantities (which are usually sold for boat construction) it
starts to get very expensive.
2. Toxicity. I really don't like using epoxy as it is so extremely
toxic and buying the correct PPE equipment to work with it will
be costly. Also, as the workshop situation is as it is, using the
extraction room is quite difficult. Even in normal circumstances
this would be quite tricky as I would have to leave the frame to
dry for quite some time thus taking up space in the room for
other people.
3. Workability. For some reason, whenever I mix epoxy it goes
wrong. Even though, generally, it's a 1:1 mix, I just never seem to
do it correctly... spreading epoxy evenly can also be quite difficult.
Wood Glue
I plan to use wood glue to glue my project together, specifically Evo-Stik. I have used this glue a lot and
so feel I can better plan how I may go about the glue up. I will first have to slightly sand the plywood
layers as they will have a protective coating on the exterior face which will stop the glue from soaking
into the wood correctly. TiteBond III also seems like a good option, but it is manufactured in america so
prices are quite high. Here is some useful information I found in a book about wood glue and ply:
“I use yellow glue (plain old Titebond or Elmers), wetting both mating surfaces evenly with thin coats. A
Formica or other laminate sample tag available free at any home center makes a good spreader. Yellow
glue is slippery, so I sprinkle a tiny amount of extremely fine sand (like sandblasting medium) on wet
surfaces before clamping. Half a cup of the stuff is a lifetime supply. The grit
keeps the parts from squirming out of alignment when clamping pressure is
applied. Type II and III glues won't offer you much advantage unless your project
will be exposed to moisture or immersed.” For glueing the metal pieces to the
plywood frame my only option really is to use epoxy. As this will only be a small
area I will not have to buy very much glue which is great.
Batteries
To begin, I need to research the fundamentals of electricity so I can make an
informed decision about the battery I choose. I will also then go into my
research based on things I learnt from “The Ultimate Do It Yourself Ebike
Guide: Learn to Build Your Own Electric Bicycle” by Micah Toll. Electricity is the
flow of electrons from one place to another. Electrons can flow through any
material, but does so more easily in some than in others. How easily it flows is
called resistance. The resistance of a material is measured in Ohms. Matter
can be broken down into: Conductors: electrons flow easily. Low resistance.
Semiconductors: electrons can be made to flow under certain circumstances.
Variable resistance according to formulation and circuit conditions. Insulator:
electrons flow with great difficulty. High resistance.
Electrons are very small and so for practical reasons they
are usually measured in very large numbers. A Coulomb is
6.24 x 1018 electrons. The flow of electrons is called
current, and is measured in Amps. One amp is equal to a
flow of one coulomb per second through a wire. Making
electrons flow through a resistance requires an attractive
force to pull them. This force, called Electro-Motive Force
or EMF, is measured in volts. A Volt is the force required to
push 1 Amp through 1 Ohm of resistance. As electrons flow
through a resistance, it performs a certain amount of
work. It may be in the form of heat or a magnetic field or
motion, but it does something. This work is called Power,
and is measured in Watts. One Watt is equal to the work
performed by 1 Amp pushed by 1 Volt through a resistance.
Amps: is the amount of electricity
Volts: is the push, not the amount
Ohms: slows the flow
Watts: is how much gets done
Ohm’s Law
The term Ohm’s law refers to one of the fundamental relationships found in electronic circuits: that, for
a given resistance, current is directly proportional to voltage. In other words, if you increase the voltage
through a circuit whose resistance is fixed, the current goes up. If you decrease the voltage, the current
goes down. This formula can be used to calculate Ohm’s law:
where I = current in amps, V = voltage in volts, and R = resistance in ohms.
This same formula can be also be written in order to calculate for the voltage or the resistance:
This triangle diagram can be a useful for remembering Ohm's law:
How do batteries work?
For electricity to flow, there needs to be a complete circuit. Batteries have three
parts, an anode (-), a cathode (+), and the electrolyte. The cathode and anode (the
positive and negative sides at either end of a traditional battery) are hooked up
to an electrical circuit. The chemical reactions in the battery cause a buildup of
electrons at the anode. This results in an electrical difference between the anode
and the cathode - an unstable build-up of the electrons is created. The electrons
want to rearrange themselves to get rid of this difference. Electrons repel each
other and try to go to a place with fewer electrons. In a battery, the only place to go is to the cathode. But,
the electrolyte keeps the electrons from going straight from the anode to the cathode within the battery.
When the circuit is closed (a wire connects the cathode and the anode) the electrons will be able to get
to the cathode.
Battery Capacity
Amp hour is the rating used to tell consumers how much amperage a battery can provide for exactly one
hour. In small batteries such as those used in personal vaporizers, or standard AA sized batteries, the
amp hour rating is usually given in milli-amp hours, or (mAh). For large batteries, the rating is
abbreviated as Ah.
My battery notes and research from “The Ultimate e-bike Guide”
Ebikes became popular around the 1990s, but
the technology was rather primitive and they
used lead acid and nickel cadmium batteries
which have long charging cycles, are very heavy
and don’t last very long. In the early 2000s
advances in nickel metal hydride and lithium
ion rechargeable batteries made ebikes more
efficient and cheaper. Lead acid batteries wear
out quickly and if used in an e-bike will need to
be replaced around every year or so. On
December 31, 1895, Ogden Bolton Jr. was
granted first patent for a battery-powered (hub
motor) bicycle.
An image from the patent
Ogden Bolton registered in 1895.
A side view of Ogden Bolton’s
electrical bicycle
Range
-The range of your bike differs vastly depending on the terrain. Hills suck the battery like nobody's
business.
-Batteries will also lose their charge capacity the older they get meaning that a bike’s original range will
decrease with age and use.
Charging Time
Slower charging is always better than fast - it
will extend the longevity of the battery
Batteries and AH
Batteries are chemical energy storage that
supply DC current. There are two main
metrics when it comes to defining the
specifications of a battery: Voltage and
Capacity. Voltage is measured in VOLTS and
Capacity is measured in AMP-HOURS (AH).
Let's look at specific battery ratings using
an AA battery as an example. Each AA
battery is 1.5V, and coincidentally about
1.5AH. Alternatively, AAA batteries are
smaller and although they have the same
voltage of 1.5, they have a smaller capacity of around 1AH. If we look at C batteries which are much larger,
while they also have the same voltage of 1.5, their AH rating is much higher at around 6 to 8 AH. This idea
holds true for your ebike battery. Standard ebike battery voltages are 24V, 36V and 48V, but are available
in different capacities, usually between 8AH to 20AH. The level of voltage and capacity of your battery
has different effects on your ebike. The voltage is directly related to the speed of your bike with the
capacity relates to how far it will go on a charge. Increased voltage means increased speed of the motor.
Increased capacity increases the range. Doubling the voltage of the battery nearly doubles the speed of
the motor. Doubling the capacity of the battery doubles the distance your ebike can travel.
Lead Acid vs Lithium
In the early days, ebikes were most often powered with lead acid
batteries. In the last decade Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) and Metal
hydride (NiMH) became quite popular as they were quite a bit
lighter. However for the most part, most bikes these days use
Lithium batteries. Lead batteries are still used however if cost
saving is a high priority. Lead Acid Battery. In sum, the decision as
to what battery to go for means deciding between low cost, yet
heavy lead-acid batteries or the more expensive yet lightweight
lithium batteries. Lead batteries also lose their capacity much
faster, you also need to change lead-acid batteries immediately after use to avoid permanently
damaging them. Lithium batteries last up to 5x longer, are lighter, smaller and are easier to mount to
your bicycle as many come with specifically designed to attach to a bike.
Lead Acid:
+Cheap
-Less power, larger battery
-Heavy
Lithium
+Efficient
+Lighter
+Safer (Many modern LiPos are protected from overcharging)
-expensive
Lead Acid Batteries Explained
The type of lead-acid batteries that some ebikes use are called Sealed Lead Acid batteries (SLAs). This is
because they are sealed in a case which prevents the acid leaking, even if the battery is upside down.
You can get non-sealed lead acid batteries, like the ones found in a car, which have to be stored upright
otherwise the acid will leak. Standard SLAs come as 12v (you can occasionally get 6v). For a bike, you will
have to wire the batteries in series to achieve the final voltage you need. See 19. For a diagram and
explanation on how to do this. Make sure to use heavy gauge wire when you are doing this - at least 16
through 14, possibly even up to 12AWG. Note that the lower the AWG wire rating the thicker the wire.
Choosing the right AH rating for your bike will depend on how far you want to go. If you think you’ll only
be doing short journeys then a 10Ah is probably fine.
For longer journeys you may consider a 20Ah. To get
the longest life out of a lead-acid battery as possible,
you should never let them fall below 50% Depth Of
Discharge (DOD). Also make sure you charge your
batteries as soon as you have finished using them as
leaving them drained will permanently damage their
energy storage capacity. Thanks to the “L” in SLA
batteries, they are extremely heavy.
SLA Batteries on an e-bike
Lithium Batteries Explained
● Lithium batteries come in a range of voltage ratings, meaning that you don’t need to wire up
multiple batteries like you do with SLAs. The first decision you will need to make is what version
of lithium chemistry you want to go for. Currently there are two main options which are: Li-on
(usally LiNiMnCoO2) or LiFePO4).
● Li-on batteries are generally less expensive, slightly smaller and lighter, but are rated for fewer
charging cycles - around 500-800.
● LiFePO4 are more expensive, slightly larger, but typically rated for at least 1,500-2000 cycles,
meaning that they can last around five years even if you were charging it every single day.
LiFePO4 are generally safer than other lithium batteries and even if punctured or overcharge
won't explode or catch fire.
● Lithium Polymer Battery - also called “Lipos”. These batteries are often used in with RC aircrafts.
These kind of batteries have the advantage of being much cheaper, lighter, smaller and more
powerful than other lithium chemistries, but they are also incredibly dangerous. If accidental
overcharging occurs or the battery is damaged in any way, big fire and boom boom can be
expected.
Lipo battery fire
-Conclusion-
To conclude, I feel that a lithium LiFePO4 battery with a hard case would be the one for me. In the range
of 20AH with the voltage rating depending on the motor I choose.
Where am I going to buy my battery?
EM3EV
This company is based in China, but run by a
British expat (Paul). He is well respected in the
ebike community and has developed his own
ebike kits and has worked with motor
manufacturers to develop new products. As the
company is based and manufactured in China,
prices are fairly low, but are of a guaranteed
quality. If I were to buy from this seller, I would
probably go with this battery: EM3ev 36V
(10S5P) Super Shark Ebike Battery. This is a 36v
14.5AH LiPo battery which comes with a low amp
charger for £242.14 which is quite a good price
for the Ah rating which affects the price
significantly the higher the value.
ECityPower (Aka: BMSBattery.com)
-These guys mostly sell geared hub motors. Their components
are very cheap (especially the accessories like throttle ect), but
shipping is high. Shipping is high as they are based in the US.
-They sell the Hailong battery which is a respected brand.
-Their 36v 14Ah downtube battery would probably be the best
option for me.
Grin Technologies (AKA: Ebikes.ca)
-The author recommends these guys for first time
ebikers due to their superior parts and customer
service.
-These guys sell a range of kits from mid range to
high power kits.
-They also sell Nine Continent and Crystalite direct
drive hub motor kits which are great if you are
looking for a high powered e bike. They are
expensive, but they have great customer service.
-Justin, their founder is very well known in the ebike world.
-Justin also invented the Cycle Analyst which allows you to monitor the power of your ebike as well as
your battery voltage and the remaining capacity of your battery.
-They also sell lots of extra parts - anything you could possibly need for an ebike.
-They also make very good torque arms - some of the best on the market. Definitely worth the
investment if you are going for a motor over 500watts or an aluminium frame.
Ebikekit.com
-Smaller selection of parts, still pushing lead acid batteries.
They do sell lithium batteries, but at much higher prices. Not
good customer support.
Goldenmotor.com
-These guys make the MagicPie and SmartPie kits
which are some of the simplest kits to install on
the market today. When run at 48v, the MagicPie is
one of the more powerful kits you can put on your
bike, peaking at about 1500watts. The beauty of the
MagicPie motor is that the controller is built into
the motor and all the connectors are designed to
come together in one connection block.
-Their batteries are very expensive.
Favourite Supplier: Yose Power
-This company is an outlet shop for batteries and motors made in
China.
-They have a base in Berlin where they ship orders from which
means that shipping prices are low.
-They also sell the Hailong Battery which is considered a reliable
brand
-As their prices are so good, they are often sold out for quite a long
period of time before stocks are replenished.
ElectricRider.com
-Great source for the powerful Crystalite motors - these motors are pretty
much as powerful as you will ever want to go for a beginner. The kits also
come with a well laced wheel which means a lot when you are looking at
kits. -Good customer service -Good website which explains how fast your ebike will go based on wheel
sizes with real world data to back it up. -sell quality lithium-ion batteries.
The Battery I plan to buy:
When it’s back in stock I plan to buy the 36V15Ah Downtube battery from YOSE Power. The battery also
comes with a low powered charger. This battery also has all the correct connections to hook up to my
motor correctly.
Metal Research
For the parts of the bike that require a lot of strength, or where a mechanical connection occurs, I will be
using metal. Such instances include: The Dropouts, dropout brace Bottom bracket brace,
Frame/headcase connection brace and the headset brace. I had originally wanted to use brass for some
of the parts, but soon realized that this would be too expensive. Brass is also quite weak so it may be for
the best anyway. Either Way, I researched both.
Brass
Some quick facts:
● Copper is a pure metal, whereas brass is an alloy with zinc.
● Brass is stronger than copper
● Increasing the amounts of zinc in brass provides the
material with improved strength and ductility.
● Copper is a rich orange color while brass is a pleasant gold
Brazing
You can attach brass together by brazing - In this
tutorial this metalworker made a table from brass
using brazing. Here is some of his advice: “I used the
MAPP torch to heat the two pieces on a fire brick to a
dim glow, then dipped the brass directly into the flux
so it was evenly spread. Then I used some brazing rod
that had a lower melting temperature than brass and
supposedly matches copper in color so it should blend
okay. After heating the joint back up to a glow, I
touched the brazing rod into the joint and it melted
and flowed into the joint where the flux was. The metal
will flow toward the heat, so heat the side you want the
metal to flow into.” Melting the brazing rod onto the copper join
Epoxy
You can also tig weld brass, but it is difficult. Bonding with epoxy is
also possible. Some advice for using epoxy with brass: “Metals such
as brass require a bit of roughing-up to encourage a better bond. If
this procedure is ignored, the surface will be slippery and less likely
to create a permanent bond. The surface must first be cleaned,
preferably with an alcohol-based solution to remove any greasy
substances. If you don’t have an alcohol-based solution, use neat
detergent, which is a good alternative for cutting through grease. The
surface can be roughened with sandpaper. Once the surface is rough,
there is no need to clean off all the shavings. These shavings will aid
in the bonding process.
To prevent brass from developing a patina, I will need to protect the surface. I plan to use a
clear lacquer spray for this.
Stainless Steel
Stainless steel is much more costly than mild steel and is
much stronger as it has more carbon. Stainless steel has a
high amount of chromium that improves its corrosion
resistance and strength. Stainless steel is also 100 percent
recyclable. In fact, half of all stainless steel production is from
scrap metal. This makes it a relatively eco-friendly material. I
will be using stainless steel for all the mechanical fixing
plates while using brass pipes and copper connectors for the
seat.
Cool Fact: The Walt Disney Concert Hall is made entirely from Stainless Steel
300 series
I will be using AISI 304 stainless steel for my bike
components as it has superior weather resistant
properties. This series gas carbon, nickel, and
molybdenum as alloying elements. The addition of
molybdenum improves corrosion resistance in acidic
environments while nickel improves ductility. This steel is
most popular in the Food and Beverage industry as well as
the automotive industry. If you’ve ever had a hotel
breakfast buffet, stainless 304 is probably what is
keeping your food warm!
Water Jet Cutting
I plan to use a water jet cutter to cut out my metal
pieces. Though I could use a plasma cutter for the
Stainless Steel, it cannot be used with brass as it
would melt it. I first designed my pieces in Rhino,
then converted them to a STEP file for the water jet
cutter to read. I was first going to use the UH water
jet cutter that the uni has in the engineering
department, but having researched metal prices, It
turns out it wasn’t that much more expensive to
outsource it and get it delivered straight to me.
Infact, trying to buy 5mm stainless in general is
difficult.
This is a 3D render of the rear dropouts and braces. The dropout will be made from 5mm stainless steel,
while the braces will be made from 3mm (exterior) and 2mm (interior) stainless steel. All held in place
with epoxy and M8 bolts and nuts.
A picture of all the files together, all to be cut from various thickness stainless steel.
Drop Outs
What are drop outs? Dropouts are the parts of the
rear bike frame that hold the wheel in place. They
come in many different varieties for different types
of bikes and uses. Drop outs are usually made from
steel, aluminum or titanium and they are usually
welded or brazed onto the bike frame. The two basic
types of dropouts are the horizontal and vertical
drop out.
The vertical drop out above has a derailleur hanger for a geared
bike. Vertical dropouts are good if you have a geared bike as
chain tension can be modified by the derailleur. These dropouts
are a more recent invention than the horizontal ones. The main
plus side to using these types of drop out is ease of use, where
a quick release hub can be used with them.
With a horizontal drop out
(above), the bike wheel slots in
from the back and can be
adjusted incrementally. These
types of drop outs work well if
you have a single speed bike as
you can adjust the chain tension
by moving the wheel forwards or
backwards in the drop out. I
would say vertical dropouts are
much safer as Vertical dropouts
have a vertical notch for the axle
to go up into, and the axle's position is not adjustable. With vertical dropouts, the axle cannot be pulled
out of position, even if it is not properly secured. I first thought about buying existing drop outs and
adjusting them for my needs. These dropouts from the bamboo bicycle club looked particularly
promising. The dropouts were labeled as “modular” as the drop out type could be changed from
horizontal to vertical. After buying these dropouts however I realized that they were not going to be
sturdy enough for my purposes. I also decided that I should in fact make my own as If I were to use shop
bought ones it would have to design my bike around their shape which wouldn't be very good.
I have seen examples of where someone has repurposed dropouts from another bike which was quite
effective, but for my purposes I do not feel it would be appropriate.
To begin designing my own, I first looked at the standard dimensions for a normal dropout. The most
important measurement was the slot which holds the bike axle, this is usually 10mm in width.
The next most important dimension is the thickness. For jump bikes and MTB bikes, the drop out
thickness is usually no less than 4.5/5mm. As my bike is going to be pretty heavy, I decided to go with
5mm dropouts. I plan to get my dropouts cut out on a laser cutter, however if this turns out to be too
expensive, I could also fabricate my own. This bike mechanic goes through the steps of how he created
his own drop outs.
He first drew out his drop out design on paper
He then marked it out on 5mm 3140 steel.
He then tig welds the drop outs to the frame.
My finished drop out was designed in Rhino and cut out on a water jet cutter.
Hub Research
What is a Hub? The hub of a wheel is the central part of the
wheel where the bearings sit and allow the wheel to turn when
it’s secured in the drop outs. This was a big area to research
for me as I needed a hub with a small width to fit within my
bike frame. One of the reasons I decided to have the motor at
the front was to allow me to have a wheel at the rear with a
smaller hub measurement.
Rear hub width varies widely, but the most common sizes are 130mm for road and 135mm for MTB. The
maximum width my real wheel can be is 110mm.
Some standard hub
sizes:
There are two main types or rear
wheel hubs, Freewheel hubs and
cassette hubs. Freewheel hubs are
older and dont appear so much
anymore. A freewheel hub has a
thread end onto which a sprocket
cluster can be screwed. With a
cassette, the sprockets fit on with a
locking mechanic and the sporkcets
can be fit one by one.
I will be using a freewheel hub/coaster as they
generally have smaller "O.L.D." (Over-Lock-nut
Distance) which is what I need for my bike.
The other hub type is a coaster hub. A coaster brake is a special rear hub for a bicycle which performs
two functions: It allows the bicycle to roll without making the pedals turn. It is similar in function to a
freewheel , but uses a different sort of mechanism to accomplish it. It is also a brake, operated by
turning the pedals backwards. The brake element is the most important element for me as this will
allow me to have a rear brake without having to attach one to the frame and having to run any ugly wires
from the front to the back of the bike.
Coaster Mechanics are insanely
cool pieces of engineering.. This is
a picture of the internal workings
of a coaster brake hub.
The exact specification of my wheel hub are
as follows:
O.L.D: 110mm
ø spokes: 2.00 mm
26-inch double-wall rim (I need a double
wall as opposed to a single wall rim as my
bike will be so heavy).
Head Tube and Headset
The headtube and headset of a bike hold the forks in place and determine their angle (or rake). The rake
of the forks is incredibly important as it completely affects the handling of the bike.
“The head angle is the steepness of
the steering axis (dotted line
parallel to the fork). It affects trail
and how far the front axle extends
in front of the head tube.” (The trail
triangle).
In essence, a steeper head angle makes for a less
stable, but more responsive handling, while a more
angled rake makes for a more stable bike, but less
responsive, heavier steering. The same principle
works for motorcycles. Leisure bikes, like a Harley
will have a gentle rake, while a sports bike will be
much more upright. “Choppers have a lot of
rake—their forks stick way out in front. Sportbikes
have much less—their forks are closer to vertical. A
typical sportbike might have a rake as steep as 25
degrees, while a chopper may be closer to 45
degrees.”
I will have a rake of
62 degrees which is
quite similar to
many Mountain
Bikes.
Headsets
What is a headset? The headset is a bearing
assembly that connects the front fork to the
frame and allows the forks to turn. There are
two main types of headset: Threadless or
Threaded.
Threaded
Threaded headsets can be found on older bikes, or ones
that are made to have a vintage look. These kinds of
headsets fit a fork with a threaded steerer. The adjustable
race (top part of the headset) screws onto the head of the
threaded fork. A bolt is then inserted into the top which
tightens into a wedge mechanism in the steerer tube and
locks it in place as seen in picture below. This variety of
headset is quite cumbersome and the wedge mechanism
has a tendency to get jammed in the tube with age and use
making maintenance more difficult.
Threadless
Like a threaded headset, threadless headsets also use two
sets of bearings and bearing cups. However a threadless
headset does not have a threaded steerer tube or threaded
top race. In a threaded headset, the steerer tube extends
beyond the headtube and headset components of the bike
and is held in place by a nut which tightens into a star
spangled nut.
I will be using a threadless headset as they are more easily adjusted and can be found more readily.
External Headsets (also called press fit) vs Integrated Headset
An external, threadless headset - this seems to be the best
choice for me as - The bearings sit in external bearing cups, and
the bearing cups are pressed into the top and bottom of the
head tube. This means I can use a standard tube. This would be
better than using an integrated headset as an integrated
headset does not have bearing cups, instead the bearings are
dropped into pre-shaped seats at either end of the head tube –
the head tube takes over the duties of the bearing cups. You
should note that some headsets combine both technologies
“Some head tubes use a mix of different designs, for example,
an external cup at the bottom and a semi-integrated design at
the top.” The image opposite is of an external headset.
I decided to source a donor bike that had this kind of headset/fork assembly. Unfortunately this
endeavour was quite difficult as I was also looking for a fork that had suspension travel of at least
170mm. Forks of this size are very expensive to buy (around £500 plus for a quality fork) so sourcing a
second hand one was essential. Also, buying a full bike with a fork+headset would ensure that the two
components would definitely fit together. Eventually I found a jump bike which had all the correct
components.
My donor bike has an external, threadless headset with forks with 170mm travel.
My Headcase Design
My design inspiration came from reading a manual about a wooden bike a boat builder had made. His
design also utilizes the strength of plywood. The headtube of the bike is captured in layers of plywood,
with the headcase itself going back into the bike frame to ensure stability.
He began by cutting out
all the layers of plywood
for the head tube case
Then he cut the holes for the headtube to go
through.
He then glued them all together and glued it
into the frame with epoxy and bolts.
As the motor for my bike will be held in the front forks, the connection between the head tube case and
the frame needs to be incredibly strongs and vibration resistant. I chose to make my headcase from
layers of Ash and Walnut. Ash is known for its strength and durability and if layered so the grain faces
different directions this strength can be maximised.
The layers of ash will be 12mm and the layers of walnut will be 9mm. This assembly will then be
strehnend with 3mm stainless steel braces, with two in the middle and two sandwiching the top. There
will also be two on the sides which will help to strengthen the holes where the bolts go through.
Each layer will have weight saving holes as well as two holes for ash dowels to go through for alignment
during glue up.
There will be a
headcase brace made
from 4mm stainless
steel on either side. The
holes on this will
correspond with the
steel plate of the
headcase. These will be
glued and bolted in
place.
The stepped design of the headcase
will help with stability and
distribution of force...
...And is designed to slot into the
frame
Bottom Bracket
Bottom Bracket
A bottom bracket is the part of a
bicycle frame around which the pedal
cranks revolve. They come in many
varieties with much depending on
where the bike was manufactured.
Some standard bottom bracket
configurations are shown in the
image opposite.
This was quite a hard component to choose for my bike as it’s width is much larger than normal bikes
and so finding a spindle with adequate length was difficult. One method I considered was using an
existing crank set (the pedal part) and spindle and modifying it so it would fit my bike.This person
successfully did this for his bike:
He first took off the bottom bracket/crankset assembly from
an old bike.
And then cut the spindle in half and sanded off the drive end
splines.
He then bought a second spindle and cut this in half
to accommodate an extension piece.
He then glued this together with epoxy.
He then slotted in the bottom bracket cups into the
frame.
His assembly then fit across the frame.
Though this is a really great idea, I would be a little worried about strength for my bike. I began to
research other possibilities. I found that longer spindles can be found in the BMX market... After a lot of
digging I found a spindle with a 6.875’’ spindle. This, together with a BMX push fit bearing assembly was
perfect for my bike.
I also needed a method to attach the sprocket to the spindle. On
most bikes the sprocket and the crank arm would come as one
piece, or on BMX bikes they are separate and you attach the
sprocket to the crank arm via a bolt. This would not work for me
as I have to have the chain going though the bike frame rather
than on the side. As you can see from the image opposite, the
sprocket is attached to the crank arm and is to the side of the
bike frame.
My solution (which is also used by the hoopy builder) is to use a
shrink disk. A shrink disk is a mechanical circular clamp that
tightens when the bolts around the outside are screwed in. A picture
of the shrink disk I have bought IS opposite. They are fairly heavy
pieces of kit as the mechanism inside is made of thick steel.
I will then drill some holes which align with three of the shrink disk bolts into the sprocket I have
bought. After the sprocket has been attached I can then screw in the rest of the bolts to tighten it around
the spindle. Opposite is a picture of the sprocket I have.
My bottom
bracket/crankset
assembly in full.
Here is a picture of the final design. The bottom bracket is held in place by the frame which is 2.4cm on
the left side and 1.2cm with a metal brace on the right side.
Another view of the bottom bracket brace and how it slots into the frame.
Motor
There are currently three main types of Ebike motor: Hubmotors, Mid-drive Motors and Friction Drive
Motors. All have different pros and cons which I will go through in the following pages. Many of the
cheaper e-bikes use brushed motors which are inefficient and wear easily. I won’t go into this too much,
but here is a bit of research on what the difference is between a brushed and brushless motor.
What is a DC Brush Motor? First invented in the 1800s, DC brush motors are one of the simplest types of
motors. They were the first type widely used, since they could be powered from early direct-current
lighting power distribution systems. You will find this type of motor all over the place. DC motors have
more torque than brushless DC motors. DC brushed electric motors turn electricity into motion by
exploiting electromagnetic induction. The motor features a permanent magnet (called the stator
because it’s fixed in place) and a turning coil of wire called an armature (or rotor, because it rotates). The
armature, carrying current provided by the battery, is an electromagnet, because a current-carrying wire
generates a magnetic field. The key to producing motion
is positioning the electromagnet within the magnetic
field of the permanent magnet (its field runs from its
north to south poles). This interplay of magnetic fields
and moving charged particles (the electrons in the
current) results in the torque (depicted by the green
arrows) that makes the armature spin. A single,
180-degree turn is all you would get out of this motor if
it weren't for the split-ring commutator — the circular
metal device split into halves (shown here in red and
blue) that connects the armature to the circuit.
Electricity flows from the positive terminal of the
battery through the circuit, passes through a copper brush to the commutator, then to the armature. But
this flow is reversed midway through every full rotation, thanks to the two gaps in the commutator. This
is a clever trick: For the first half of every rotation, current flows into the armature via the blue portion of
the commutator, causing current to flow in a specific direction. For the second half of the rotation,
though, electricity enters through the red half of the commutator, causing current to flow into and
through the armature in the opposite direction. This constant reversal essentially turns the battery's DC
power supply into alternating current, allowing the armature to experience torque in the right direction
at the right time to keep it spinning.
What is a Brushless DC Motor? Due to the physical contact the
brushes have with the commutator in a brushed motor, the
parts wear down quite quickly which is why brushless DC
motors that use electrical sensors to change the current flow
and require no contact have become more popular. With
brushed motors, an electronic sensor turns the magnetic
fields (permanent magnets) on and off in succession, driving
the rotating magnets (mounted on the rotor) to line up with
the next electromagnetic field, creating a continuous turning
motion. Brushless motors are more efficient because they use
sensors and not brushes which create friction.
Mid-drive Motors
Mid-drive motors are usually installed between the main frame triangle of the bike and attach directly to
the bike chain. The advantage of a mid-drive motor is that because the motor is tied into the chain drive,
shifting the gears will also change the motor equivalent output. Mid-drive systems do have their
disadvantages however and need regular maintenance. Your bike chain is more likely to break with a
mid drive motor and they are more loud than most other motor types. Pros: Multiple gear ratios, cheaper,
customizable. Cons: complicated, harder to install, loud, more maintenance. These types of motor are
not recommended for e-bike beginners.
Friction Drive Motors
Friction drive motors are pretty janky pieces of kit and I would say should only really be used if all the
other options are too expensive. Friction drive motors work by making contact with the back wheel, the
friction created by the motor and pressure on the wheel makes it spin. They are easy to install, but
require regular maintenance and you will have to replace your tyre frequently as the friction will wear it
out very quickly. Pros: relatively simple, cheapest. Cons: wears out tyres quickly, lower power, inefficient.
Hub Motors
Hubmotors are the most common motors for ebikes. They are simple to install, but do have limitations.
They are limited to a single gear meaning that they work well on flat ground, but begin to struggle when
going uphill. Hub motors of 250-350 watts (which are legal under UK regulation) struggle in situations
such as this. Pros: easy install, quiet, little maintenance. Cons: heavy, only one gear ratio, expensive.
Direct Drive
There are two main types of hub motor which are: The geared
hub motor and the direct drive motor. Direct drive motors
(sometimes called gearless) are the simpler of the two.
Direct drive hub motors can deliver more power and are
more suited to heavier bikes than a geared motor. In a direct
drive hub motor, the axle that passes through the center of
the motor is actually the axle of the motor itself, with the
copper windings fixed to the axle. An image of a direct drive
hub motor.
Geared Hub motors
Geared Hub motors work by using a series of gears to
move the axle indirectly. Geared hub motors are lighter
than the direct drive hub motor and are often found on
road bikes. The downside is that they are less powerful
and can wear out more quickly than hub motors. Most
geared hubmotors are only rated to around 350watts,
but some, produced by the company Bafang have been
rated for up to 500watts. And image of the interior of a
geared hub motor
I will want to go for a Direct Drive Hub motor as my bike will be heavy and I want it to go fast!
Motor Power
The main difference between a higher and lower power motor is its hill climbing and greater off the line
acceleration. For example, a 350watt motor will be able to achieve a steady 20mph on flat ground,
however when it comes to climbing a hill of around 5% incline this will drop to around 8mph. A 1000watt
motor on the other hand will be able to achieve around the same speed on the flat of around 20mph, but
when climbing that 5% incline it will be able to maintain around 15mph.
Front or Rear hub motor?
It is generally suggested that a rear hub motor is safer and is able
to deliver more power. Rear hub motors have more traction than
front ones as the weight of the rider is pushing down mostly on
the rear wheel. Front motors can make steering quite difficult,
especially when you are going from standstill to moving as they
have a tendency to skid if there is not enough weight on the front
to create enough traction. The bike opposite has a motor on the
front and back!
I have decided to go with a front hub motor. There are a few
reasons for this:
I need my rear hub to be 110mm wide to fit within the frame. All
rear hub motors have 135mm plus O.L.D (Over-Lock-nut Distance)
to accommodate the motor and sprocket hub. The rear frame will
be wooden (with steel dropouts of course). As I am using metal
forks from a donor bike, I feel these will be better equipped to hold the motor in place. The headcase has
also been designed to ensure that the pulling force of the motor will be dissipated throughout the frame
(hopefully).
Here are some motor statistics from some other e-bikes:
My Esel Tourer Bike
Weight of Bike: 3 Stone
Battery: 400Wh
Average Speed:
Top Speed:
Motor Size: 250w rear hub (geared)
motor
Range: 68 miles (pedal assist)
It is listed as a “Pedalec” motor which
is: “A pedelec (from pedal electric
cycle) is a type of electric bicycle where
the rider's pedalling is assisted by a
small electric motor; thus it is a type
of low-powered e-bike.”
My Motor
The motor I have chosen to go with is the Smart Pie 4. This motor has the controller inside the motor
itself (most are outside and have to be wired into the battery + motor). If paired with a 36v battery, it's a
250w motor, though this can be decreased/increased depending on battery size. My motor will be
controlled by a thumb throttle and connected to by 36v 15Ah battery.
Bike Seat
The bike seat is an important part of the design, beyond giving you somewhere to sit, it is also a focal
point of the bike and so it is important that it compliments the design aesthetic as a whole. Though I
now can’t have the bracing plates for the bike made out of brass, the seat is somewhere I can afford to
have some brass details. I really love the combination of brass and wood together so I was very excited
to have this as a design element on my bike.
I began by researching how real
motorcycle seats are made. The
pictures opposite show plastic being
vacuformed over a seat buck.
Pattern Making
I will also need to make a pattern for the seat cover so it
follows the contours of the foam seat. A common method
for doing this is illustrated below: Start by applying tape (or
cheap fabric) over your foam seat.
On Top of this you draw your fabric pattern. The lines
you draw a mark where you want the seam lines to be.
You then cut the template away from the seat,
leaving you with the fabric pattern pieces.
Then you trace around the pattern pieces onto your
fabric.
Many scrambler motorcycle seats have a raised portion at the
end which I want to replicate in my design.
The base of my seat is going to be made from copper pipe, joined
together with copper elbow and obtuse fittings.
The frame will be glued together with epoxy. Holes will be drilled to accept copper rods that will support
the seat.
There will be two layers of heat shaped polypropylene as the seat base. The first will be attached to the
copper rods and the second will be the base for the foam seat.
The finished seat
I do not have a sewing machine so I will have to hand sew the seat. I really like the quilted look a lot of
seats have, but without a sewing machine this will be quite a difficult thing to achieve. Instead, I have
bought some faux leather which has a quilt like pattern already sewed into it. I will use upholstery foam
for the seat cushion.
My Design
Now that I have completed the design process for all the component parts, it’s time to start on the
frame. This began with sketches and comparing reference material of scrambler motorcycles and
bicycle design.
Bike Measurements
Bike Fork Measurements
Motorcycle Dimensions in 1:20 scale
Initial shape designs with my bike forks for reference
White circles for 26” wheel reference
Another Frame Drawing..
Photoshop experiments..
Moving to Rhino with bike forks and 26” wheel for reference. Looking at seat height, drop outs, fork rake.
Forks from my old bike are too small (fork research and travel height considered). Still looking at
different seat heights and fork rake.
Person for scale
Looking at other e-bikes for size reference and ergonomics. This is a super 73 with 20” tyres. This is
helping me find the correct seat height to pedal ratio.
This is the Vintage Electric Scrambler with 26” wheels
A normal bike (the seats are so high!).
My bike with the SR250 behind for reference.
Decided on using the Huck e-bike for my main source of reference in regards to seat/pedal height. New
forks from the new donor bike added.
Frame is too low..
Changing frame height and shape and experimenting with battery placement (I like how it looks similar
to a motorcycle petrol tank)
Frame design expanded and criss cross pattern developed. Also looking at rear hub placement and
headcase design.
Headcase design, drop out placement and bottom bracket placement being finalized
Headcase and dropout braces added.
Seat, handlebars and color added.
The Final Design...