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The “organic”
The European consumers’ food regime
understanding and perceptions
of the “organic” food regime 93
The case of aquaculture
Bernt Aarset, Suzanna Beckmann, Enrique Bigne,
Malcolm Beveridge, Trond Bjorndal, Jane Bunting,
Pierre McDonagh, Catherine Mariojouls, James Muir,
Andrea Prothero, Lucia Reisch, Andrew Smith,
Ragnar Tveteras and James Young
(Authors’ afWliations can be found at the end of the article)
Keywords Europeans, Consumers, Organic foods, Regulation
Abstract This paper explores consumer understanding and perception of organic food, with
speciWc reference to the relatively new concept of organic farmed salmon. Key themes associated
with the term “organic”and its meaning, as determined by consumers, are explored and the role of
labelling and regulatory authorities considered. Focus groups in Wve countries (UK, Germany,
Spain, Norway and France) consisting of 196 participants showed that most consumers are
confused about the meaning of the term organic and are largely unaware of the organic
certiWcation and labelling process. Many consumers were unsure, even sceptical about the concept
of organic farmed salmon and display a large amount of distrust in the regulatory process. The
implications for the concept of organic food and salmon production and directions for further
research are discussed.
Introduction
In many EU countries consumers are becoming more anxious about the food
they eat and are increasingly concerned with food production issues such as
food safety (Huang, 1995), quality (Haglund et al., 1999), health (Beharrel and
MacFie, 1991), the environment (Cudjoe and Rees, 1992; Haglund et al., 1999)
and animal welfare (Fearne and Lavelle, 1996). The range of organic produce
now not only contains fruits and vegetables and meat products, but has also
proliferated, extending to pulses, nuts, seeds, Xours, cereals, chocolate, ice
cream, beers, wines, fruit juices and dairy produce in addition to non-foods
such as aromatherapy essential oils, shampoos, conditioners, and cosmetics.
This may in part be attributable not only to consumers’ concern about the
British Food Journal
This research was carried out as part of an ongoing project funded by the European Union FAIR Vol. 106 No. 2, 2004
prgramme (DGXII-ELSA): “Organic Salmon Production and Consumption: Ethics, Consumer pp. 93-105
q Emerald Group Publishing Limited
Perceptions and Regulation – CT98-3372” – Project Co-ordinator: James A. Young, University of 0007-070X
Stirling. DOI 10.1108/00070700410516784
BFJ health aspects of food and food safety (Opinion Research, 1990) but also to other
106,2 products absorbed by the body.
However, the food industry’s responsiveness to the dramatic growth in
consumer demand for organic foods (Eurofood, 1996) has been hampered by
long production lead times and also a widespread opinion that increased
demand is not being met by suppliers (Lactacz-Lahmann and Foster, 1997). In
94
some contrast to the situation in most other food sectors, volume growth in
organics has been dramatic; combined sales in the USA and EU, for example,
were worth US$9 billion in 1997 (Kapp, 1999). Between 1985 and 1990 the UK
market grew tenfold (Mintel, 1991), and by 55 per cent between 1999 and 2000
alone (Soil Association, 2000). In France, the sales of organic foods has risen by
30 per cent between 1995 and 1997 and there have been suggestions that
overall demand for organic produce in Europe has increased by 100 per cent
per annum in recent years (Norberg-Hodge, 2000). It has been estimated that
the European market for organic meats and dairy products will increase from
£1.1 billion in 1996 to £3.2 billion in 2002. Despite this, however, organic
production still only makes up 3 per cent of arable land production in the EU
(Soil Association, 2000).
In some market sectors supply-side constraints have generated trade
imbalances; for instance, most fruit and vegetables in the UK are imported
because of the shortfall of indigenous organic farms (Soil Association, 2000)
and the longer lead times necessary to change production methods for any
farmers so inclined. This UK trade imbalance has been exacerbated by a policy
of organic agricultural support less favourable than in most other European
countries. In Denmark, for example, the success of organic produce is due, at
least partially, to greater assistance from the state; greater governmental
support has also been forthcoming in Germany and the Netherlands (Cudjoe
and Rees, 1992).
Production of organic produce has also been encouraged by consumers’
willingness to pay price premiums. In the UK, this has been estimated to
amount to a 40 per cent mark-up in the case of fruit and vegetables (Source:
Consumers’ Association), a differential that encouraged abandonment of an
earlier sales promotion campaign by some UK supermarkets to match
standard agricultural products prices. Research also suggests consumers are
willing to pay price premiums for organic meat produce (Hutchins and
Greenhalgh, 1995).
In some EU regions, there is evidence that some consumers have become
increasingly concerned about the welfare and treatment of animals in
addition to the impact on their own health of eating meat products. This has
led to the introduction of organic meat and food products and foods
produced with animal welfare as a central proposition, for example, the
“Freedom Food” range monitored by the Royal Society for the Prevention of
Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA) for companies’ treatment of animals in the UK.
More recent revelations concerning malpractice within slaughterhouses, and The “organic”
the scope for transmission of E-coli 1057 have fuelled further consumer food regime
concerns (Smithers and Bowcott, 1997) as well as the recent outbreak of foot
and mouth disease (FMD) in the UK. Yet, in marked contrast, the issue of
organic Wsh has received comparatively little attention. One reason for this
may be the fact that the vast majority of Wsh supplies still tend to come
from wild, capture Wsheries rather than Wsh farms. In this respect, Wsh may
95
still be regarded as somewhat unique. However, as the proportion of farmed
Wsh supplies increases, consumer concerns and awareness are increasingly
likely to mimic those that have emerged in other agricultural sectors (Aarset
et al., 1998; Girling, 2001).
Conclusion
This paper has highlighted the lack of knowledge and confusion among EU
consumers surrounding the term organic as well as potential problems
associated with the continued growth of the organic product portfolio,
particularly with aquaculture. This work also raises a number of generic
questions about consumer education in terms of food production processes.
Clearly, consumers are not as well informed as they might be; this is partly
their own responsibility, but it is also the responsibility of governments,
certifying bodies, producers, retailers and the other actors in the food chain. In
the short term consumer ignorance may well serve the organic and aquaculture
industries well, but in the longer term there is the potential for media driven
exposures of “bad practice” or “deceipt” (Beardsworth, 1990).
The organic movement is left with a real challenge, which is only
exaggerated as the portfolio of products rapidly expands. On this and other
evidence the consumer uses the “organic” label as an heuristic and
BFJ consumption is at least partially driven towards it for negative reasons
106,2 (avoidance of mainstream food). Their knowledge of what it really means and
some of the compromises implicit in the regulations for organic animal
products (in particular) mean that there is a knowledge gap. However, past
research has shown that consumers are both confused by multiple sources of
information and fail to use all information they have been exposed to (Smith
102 et al., 1999; Cowley, 1994). Either the food providers and certiWers make more
efforts to communicate the exact nature of organic animal products or they face
a “reality gap” where unrealistic consumer expectations meet pragmatic
regulations. However, effective communication of complex issues remains
problematic (Yeaton et al., 1990; Bruhn et al., 1992) particularly where multiple
agencies are responsible i.e. producers, retailers, certiWers and industry bodies
(Smith et al., 1999).
This study was part of a project that explored many other related issues
in the consumer discussion groups and interviewed a number of industry
and interest group actors in each country. While the analysis of the latter
data is ongoing, the ultimate aim remains to synthesise the “demand side
view” with the “supply side view” in order to explore the potential for
enhanced consumer education in the future and to identify common ground
or intractable problems (conceptual or practical). The more holistic
perspective that such a synthesis would bring is considered to be
important in terms of both the policy measures and associated strategies
that might accompany new products as they are marketed. For the present,
however, there are a number of pressing questions for future research. What
are the views of other actors in the food chain to the issues raised above?
Are there countries/markets where some of the issues raised have been
resolved? What is the situation in other countries not surveyed? What has
been the impact of the proliferation of (non-organic) quality certiWcation
schemes (e.g. Farm Assured in the UK)? Clearly, there is scope for and a
need for further research in this area.
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About the authors The “organic”
Bernt Aarset is at Foundation for Research in Economics and Business Administration,
Bergen, Norway. food regime
Suzanna Beckmann is at Copenhagen Business School, Frederiksberg, Demark.
Enrique Bigne is at University of Valencie, Valencia, Spain.
Malcolm Beveridge is at University of Stirling, Scotland, UK.
Trond Bjorndal is at Foundation for Research in Economics and Business Administration, 105
Bergen, Norway.
Jane Bunting is at University of Stirling, Scotland, UK.
Pierre McDonagh is at Dublin Institute of Technology, Dublin, Ireland.
Catherine Mariojouls is at Institut National Agronomique Paris Grignon, Paris, France.
James Muir is at University of Stirling, Scotland, UK.
Andrea Prothero is at University College Dublin, Co Dublin, Ireland.
Lucia Reisch is at University of Hohenheim, Hohenheim, Germany.
Andrew Smith is at Nottingham University Business School, Nottingham, UK.
Ragnar Tveteras is at Stavanger College, Stavanger, Norway.
James Young is at Univerity of Stirling, Scotland, UK.