Seam Engineering in

Apparels

By:
Neelam Srivastava
 Seam Engineering in Apparels
By: Neelam Srivastava

When apparel industry is concerned, we first start thinking, how apparels are generated, which engineering
is playing an important role into it. Right from the beginning of conceiving an idea for designing arrangement
and finished with a brand name. The tiniest unit of a garment is fibre which, further takes shape to yarn and
threads.

Threads similarly play a vital role in Apparel Industry in construction and stitching of garment. Now, here we
will talk ‘what is seam engineering.’

Seam Engineering

It includes seam and stitch construction. The more thread a stitch consumes, the greater is the strength.
This is clearly visible when we compare lock stitch and chain stitch. Lock stitch is one in which thread is
locked both sides of the fabric and starts with 301 lock stitch. It undergoes more shearing as compared to
chain stitch and over edge stitch. As in lockstitch threads are interlocked rather than inter-looped.

Another concept attached to seam strength is SPI (stitch per inch)- this again goes back to the words that
more is the thread in the seam, the more is the strength of the seam. This again varies as per the fabrics
where, too many stitches might damage the fabric as picking at one place increases, leading to weakening
of the yarn. However, it also leads to production loss with increase in the puckering number.

How to estimate seam Strength

Now, for estimating the strength there are certain formulas that are developed for different kinds of fabric
strength.

1) 301 lock stitch formula 401 chain stitch formula

SPI* Thd. strength*1.5* = estimated seam strength
For e.g. 10*4.01 bs*1.5 = 601 bs
2) For apparels, normal loop strength
SPI*Thd. strength*1.7 = estimated Seam Strength
For e.g. 10*4.01 bs*1.7 = 681 bs
3) For Woven Fabrics
Stitch Type- 301 lock stitch or 401 chain stitch
Thread strength- Single end breaking strength of the threads measured in Pounds.

Machine Adjustments for stitch tensions

Greater seam strength can be obtained by adjusting the sewing…threads tensions, threads controls and
eyelets etc.

More of sewing machine thread tension will lead to reduce of the seam strength along with many sewing
problems.

Factors for Seam Strength

Abrasion Resistance: this is an important factor for upholstery, footwear and in carpet manufacturing as
well as into apparels. This includes fiber type, fibre size and shape, thread construction and, thread size.

Stitch and seam construction: Present quality measurement standards of apparels ASTN, AATCC for
evaluating the toughness of sewing threads. They are conducting comprehensive test using a modified
crokometer.

Threads of various types are now available and each one has its own tickets no. and weight through which it
is identified. A manufacturer should be more careful while making a choice of thread for a garment.

Revolution in thread manufacturing has ensured the availability of thread quality as per the fabric demands.
One who is aware of quality, parameters of threads and, machine type, lubrication of machine and to thread
can successfully lead adding quality to apparels and its manufacturing.
About the Author:

The author is the Principal of J. D. Institute of Fashion Technology.

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