Boostlogic T67 Installation Guide

Thanks to Mike Lee for taking the time to do this writeup.

Installation Tips

- Refer to the manual for torque specs and other information, if needed.

- Loosely fit everything first, the last thing you want to do is torque
everything down and have something not fit right.

- Use common sense, and make sure no electrical connections or hoses are
directly in contact with the manifold or downpipe.

The following is a set of instructions for installing a Boostlogic turbo kit.

Removing the stock twins

If you still have stock twins, then you will soon find out that removing them is
a lot of work. There are many resources available on
http://www.supraforums.com/ for removing the stock turbos.

This is where we will begin the installation process. Your engine should pretty
much look like this with the stock turbos removed:

Before proceeding, now would be a good time to clean your engine block, as
more of it will be exposed after a single turbo conversion. Just make sure you
plug your exhaust ports so nothing accidentally goes in there!
Now lets take care of a few things before putting the manifold on.

Oil return line

Your kit should have came with the fittings required for the oil feed and
return lines. On the exhaust side of the engine, right above the oil pan, there
is a flange that has a long pipe connected to it, running along the side of the
block. This is the stock oil return. This pipe is going to be removed
completely.

- Remove the two 12mm nuts, and take off the whole pipe. Preserve the
metal gasket, as it will be used for the new oil return line.

The hole in the center of the picture is what you should have now once you
remove the hose.

One of the two flanges(the oval flange) supplied with the kit will be used
here, along with the blue 45-degree AN fitting. Use teflon paste or tape on
the NPT side of the fitting. Make sure you screw in the AN fitting to the flange
first, since it will be difficult to turn it once you bolt the flange on. When the
AN fitting screwed in, make sure it is facing upwards, like in the picture.
Otherwise, you may have some fitment issues when you screw the AN-10 line
in. Insert the flange onto the two studs, and secure using the factory nuts you
removed earlier. You now have setup the oil return port on the block. USE
FACTORY GASKET!

Torque specs: Hand Tight

Oil feed line

In your kit, you should have a bolt where the AN-3 braided line screws into.
The other side of this bolt screws into the block. There are two ports on the
block, one in the front and one in the rear. These ports had banjo bolts going
to them. Now, we will use the FRONT port to feed oil to the turbo. Using the
supplied bolt, screw it into the front oil feed port. There is a bolt that is
supplied for the rear port. Use this bolt to plug the hole. Use the stock crush
washer to prevent oil leaks!!

Block Rear Oil Port

Towards the rear of the block, you will find an oil port that used to have a
banjo bolt going inside it. This is going to be blocked off (#1 in the picture),
since will only use the front oil port to feed oil to the turbo. The kit came with
a black bolt (it may look like it was cut) that will be inserted into this port. Put
a stock crush washer on from the factory banjo bolt. The other nipple, #2 in
the picture below, is a drain plug. It doesn't need to be capped off, since the
bolt directly to the left of it controls that, but I capped mine off anyway.

Heater Hose Modification

Now if you look towards the rear of the engine, you will see some heater
hoses that look like a giant mess of spaghetti. I went to Autozone and
purchased a couple new hoses to clean this mess up. Remove all of the hoses
first, and you should see two ports on the firewall after doing so. Rerun a new
hose from the rear of the engine (the arrow on the far right) to the LEFT
firewall port. Then run another hose from the coolant pipe to the RIGHT
firewall port. Make sure these hoses are clamped down good, but be careful
not to bend the delicate coolant nipples on the firewall. Also, make sure the
heater hose doesn't come near the downpipe. In our situation, the hose
curved immediately after connecting to the coolant pipe, so it doesn't travel
behind the DP. It may even be wise to wrap these hoses in heat insulation
material.

Block off existing coolant ports

You will find a bunch of nipples left over after removing the stock turbos.
These most likely are coolant ports that need to be capped off. Use a rubber
hose and put a bolt through one end with some good sealant, then clamp the
other end of the hose down on the nipple. Make sure the bolt fits into the
hose tightly, or it will leak. We grinded the threads down to a smooth finish so
coolant couldn't run through the threads. Don't use vacuum caps to seal off
coolant ports! They crack after time!

Towards the front of the engine, there are 3 coolant ports that need to be
blocked off. For the water neck pipe with the 2 nipples on it, we temporarily
connected a hose to both ports and clamped the hose down, until we can get
a replacement pipe that has the nipples welded shut. The other port is
towards the top of the alternator. Make sure these is sealed really good, since
we don't want anything leaking onto the alternator.

Now block off 3 ports (the 3 arrows on the left side of the picture) towards the
rear of the block, two which only require vacuum caps that lead to the
unused pressure tank on the other side of the engine. The 3rd port, is hard to
see since it is behind the heater hose, but make sure this gets blocked off,
and use a clamp. The vacuum caps don't require clamps since the pressure
tank will not be used. Edited by Kean: The port off the engine block (the
rightmost arrow) doesn't need to be blocked like it is in the picture. It is a
drain for the block and does not drain any fluid until you loosen the drain
bolt.
Now double check everything to make sure all hoses are clamped down and
all plugs / bolts are torqued down. These will be more difficult to access once
the manifold is on. Any last minute cleaning should be done now as well.

Manifold Fitment

-Mount the wastegate to the manifold now. Make sure the gasket that was
supplied is used. When bolting the wastegate on, face the open side of the
wastegate away from the manifold. It should be pointing directly opposite of
the header (see pic). Leave the dump tube off for now. Also, use two NPT
fittings that were supplied to screw into the holes towards the buttom and
side of the wastegate. Be sure to use teflon past or tape on these NPT
fittings! These will be your vacuum line for a boost controller. Make sure the
nipple is facing away from the enginge block and downpipe. Route the boost
hose beneath the motor mount towards the front of the car, then to your
boost controller solenoid. It is important that these hoses are kept away from
major sources of heat, such as the turbo manifold, wastegate dump tube and
downpipe.

Torque Specs for wastegate bolts: Hand Tight

Grinding manifold studs

In order for the manifold to fit properly, you will need to grind down the heads
of a few studs that the manifold will slide into. Most likely, you will need to
grind down the #2, #4,#5 and #6 studs, with #1 being the stud closest to
the front of the car. If this is not done, then tightening the manifold can cause
the studs to hit the manifold. About 1/8" needs to be shaved off from the
stud, but it can vary. It is best to fit the manifold and determine how much
the studs need to be grinded down for better accuracy.

Tightening down the Manifold

Now that all prepping is done, the manifold can be bolted on and torqued
down. The existing exhaust manifold gasket can be re-used, since it is a multi
layered metal gasket. Go ahead and put the manifold on and screw the nuts
on. The easiest way to get the nuts on is to tilt the manifold and start with the
bottom studs first. Once those have been started, you can move to the top
studs.

Torque Specs: Factory exhaust manifold specs from the manual

Turbo Install

Now we are ready to install the turbo! The kit came with a bunch of nuts and
bolts. There is a stud that has no head on it. This will screw into the rear hole
closest to the engine. Go ahead and screw this in fairly tight, as it will be
used to secure the turbo.

Now remove the turbo compressor/wheel from the exhaust housing. Simply
undo the bolts surrounding the exhaust housing and pull the wheel out.

It is easiest to start with installing just the exhaust housing, and working from
there. Take the exhaust housing and bolt it to the manifold. Use the bolts and
lock-washers supplied with the kit. There should be 3 shorter bolts that will be
used, and one nut. Don't forget the gasket that was supplied with the kit!

Once bolting down the exhaust housing, you should see this:

Make sure all bolts and the one nut are torqued down extremely well.

Now put the compressor back into the exhaust housing and secure it with the
bolts previously removed. These bolts should be relatively tight, but don't
over-tigthen.

Now fasten the oil return and oil feed lines. If you haven't already done so,
bolt the flange w/ the NPT/AN adapter fitting to the turbo. Make sure the
fitting is facing outward and make sure it is tight. Use a teflon sealant for this
fitting.

Install turbo housing

Simply place the housing over the compressor, and use the supplied brackets
to hold it in place. You may want to test fit the intercooler piping before
torquing down.
Install wastegate dump tube

-Use the supplied dump tube, and face it away from the engine towards the
ground. There is only one direction to mount it. If your car is a 97 or 98, then
you have to grind down one of the suspension brackets. If you have a 93-96
supra, you shouldn't have to modify anything.

Suspension support bracket (needs to be grinded down for 97-98 supras.

Install downpipe

Now you can install the downpipe.Use the supplied clamp to secure it in
place. Make sure the downpipe is centered between the wastegate and body
of the car before tightening. You don't want this touching anything.

-secure downpipe with clamp

-screw the two studs w/ hex key ends into the o2 sensor bung

Place stock o2 sensor and gasket on the bung and secure with the factory
nuts.
Install Intake & Intercooler piping

- go ahead and install the intake pipe and air filter. Use the supplied hose
clamps to tighten down. Also repeat this process for the intercooler pipe to go
onto a Greddy 3-row. A 4-row requires some modifications, but Kean can
hook you up.

Install boost controller

On the compressor housing there is a vacuum port, take one of the fittings
supplied and screw it in. Run a hose from the side port of the wastegate to
the turbo, go into a T and run the other end to the "in" of the boost controller.
Then run a separate hose from the top of the wastegate to the "out" port of
the boost controller. Most boost controllers require you to swtich the
controller from actuatore to external wastegate. Make sure you check this or
else you may not be able to regulate boost. Your boost controller solenoid
may vary, so use the manual.