FERTILIZER

This report all the things that a educated person must know about the
fertilizers so that he may use it properly and let other know its actual
TERM
use. PAPER
Abstract

There are three basic needs off human life, those are food
,shelter and clothes. And you all know that the basic
requirement to posses these all things is land or to be more
precise I will call it a {fertile land} that is able to generate the
the raw material for fulfilling all these basic needs of human
life.
So ,various decades ago our land was fertile enough to
generate all these things for the handful of people but now
the population is growing at a loud speed and the pressure
on land is increasing gradually and hence the fertility of land
is increasing as we are not giving it time to recover it’s
nutrients but continuously growing the crops on it,
sometimes for the need and sometime for the greed.
So the substitute we used for these natural nutrients are
{FERTILIZERS}.
In simple words Fertilizers are the nutrients which are
required by the soil for the heavy production of the crops
and all other useful things.
But the greed of human to score more and more is
compelling him to use more and more fertilizers which is
degrading the value of the land and also polluting the
environment.
So in this report we will study about the different types of
fertilizers, actual use of the fertilizers, working of the
fertilizes, merits and demerits of the fertilizers and at last we
will discuss that what we can do for avoiding the wrong use
fertilizers.
NOTE these all the discussions will be done with the
chemistry point of view.
Introduction {fertilizers}
Why the fertilizers r required?
Change that occurred along a long period in the world of
fertilizers.
Types of fertilizers on different basis.
Advantageous of fertilizers
Disadvantageous of fertilizers
What can de done to improve the fertilizers use?
Conclusion.
Intro duction
Fertilizers (or fertilisers) are substances that supply plant nutrients or amend soil fertility. They are the
most effective (30 -80 per cent increase in yields)[quantify] means of increasing crop production and of
improving the quality of food and fodder. Fertilizers are used in order to supplement nutrient supply in the
soil, especially to correct yield-limiting factors.

Fertilizer
Fertilizers are chemicals given to plants with the intention of promoting growth; they are usually
applied either via the soil or by foliar spraying.

Fertilizers typically provide, in varying proportions, the three major plant

nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), the secondary plant
nutrients (calcium, sulfur, magnesium), and sometimes trace elements (or micronutrients) with a role
in plant nutrition: boron, manganese, iron, zinc,copper and molybdenum.

The three primary ingredients of fertilizers are listed on the fertilizer bags as
nitrogen, phosphate and potash as three numbers, indicating the ratios in that order. Thus a 5-10-5
fertilizer would have 10 per cent phosphate in its ingredients.

Manure was once the dominant fertilizer, and is still used, but its role is greatly diminished. Fertilizer
can be created either from natural organic material such as manure or compost (see also organic
gardening), or artificially as through the Haber-Bosch process which produces ammonia. This
ammonia is used to produce nitric acid. A reaction product of ammonia and nitric acid already
gives Ammonium nitrate which is a fertilizer product. The nitric acid and ammonia also can be used in
the Odda Process to produce compound fertilizers such as 15-15-15.

The Haber-Bosch process uses about one percent of the Earth's total energy supply in order to provide
half of the nitrogen needed in agriculture. Organic material has the advantage of adding carbon
compounds to the soil. A major source of soil fertility is the decomposing crop residue from prior
years, though this is not considered "fertilizer."

Justus von Liebig wrote in 1840 the law of the minimum required by the plant.

Over-use of fertilizer can lead to algal blooms in lakes and streams that receive run-off from crop
lands, and lead to long-term degradation of the soil; see in this regard eutrophication and nutrients.
For these reasons, it is recommended that knowledge of the nutrient requirements of the soil vis-a-
visthe crop precede applications of commercial fertilizer. In short, excess nutrient elements can cause
local soil and off-site damage, as well as waste money.

Organic Matter
Organic gardening is the practice of using only organic matter in your garden. Organic matter is quite
diverse, it is the living and dead particles found in organic soil.
  Living particles: – these are the organisms like earthworms, insects and micro organisms
such as bacteria and fungi found in organic soil. All living particles are fundamental factors in
creating fertile soil.
 Dead particles: – these are the decaying remains of old, once-living plants and animals and
include bird droppings, grass cuttings, leaves, and even dead, decaying animal remains.

Soil color can be very deceiving. You will find that soil color does not always indicate the fertility; and the
darkest of garden soil may be poor in nutrients. Experienced gardeners make a soil testand make the
appropriate soil amendments by adding organic soil conditioners into their garden soils to encourage
healthy root growth and improve soil aeration. They also maintain the soil texture by adding organic
fertilizer and organic matter. For us to become good gardeners, we need to follow this example.
How does one add dead and living organic matter? Organic soil amendments like organic compost,
manure, leaf mould, peat moss, sawdust, bark, etc. is the answer. The micro-organisms that occur
in organic soil will break down the organic matter and will thus produce Nitrogen, Phosphate and
compounds of Potassium, Calcium and other elements that are all essential for healthy plant growth.
However, these micro-organisms themselves require Nitrogen, air, water and warmth. Organic
compost is part of the natural cycle of plant growth, where dead and decayed organic matter is returned
to the soil, broken down by micro-organisms, and is thus recycled. By adding organic compost to your
garden soil you are actually imitating nature. Compost soil isfertile soil. In rare cases organic matter may
not supply sufficient plant nutrients and chemical fertilizers are thus required to supplement the nutrient
value of the garden soil. The key factor is to make use of organic fertilizer as much as possible and only
use chemical fertilizer where organic fertilizer is insufficient.
COMPOST OR HUMUS?
According to Wikipedia the definition of humus in agriculture simply means mature compost, or natural
compost extracted from a forest or other spontaneous source for use to amend garden soil. Compost is
regarded as the gardener's best friend and can be described as well-rotted organic matter that is
absorbent, humus-rich and friable and will result in improved soil fertility, structure and water-holding
capacity when applied to soil – in other words think of compost as an organic fertilizer. Incidentally
compost is formed in nature all the time as plants and animals die and decompose. This natural compost
is generally called humus. Dedicated, well-seasoned and good gardeners sometimes prefer making their
own compost or humus while other will go and purchase commercial compost at garden centers,
hardware stores, and the like to save on the time aspect of making one's one compost. You can make
your own humus soil by gathering organic materials such as fruit or vegetable scraps, grass clippings, old
papers and raked, fallen leaves, into a heap in a secluded part of your yard. Our page on Making
Organic Compost will provide you with more information on this, and with a recipe for compost making.
You will find that compost recipes are varied and can become complicated. However you will also find
that it does not take a rocket scientist to make one's own compost making use of this compost recipe.
After all; this site is dedicated to the novice gardener and will stick to the simple and uncomplicated in
most cases.

Benefits of compost

 Improved water retention –humus soil and organic compost will hold water well, and will
also absorb water well due to its fibrous texture. This is especially beneficial for garden soil
that is sandy in nature and in areas where water is a scare commodity. As mentioned in the
following benefit, humus soil will also combat soil erosion. For a greener world we need to
all strive towards organic gardening and being soil conservationists.
 Improved soil texture – soil compaction is prevented due to the soft, fibrous nature
of organic compost. The fibrous nature of humus soil keeps the smaller soil particles
apart and prevents compaction. Organic compost can also help to bind larger soil particles
and prevent soil erosion and water loss, while facilitating rapid root development.
 Increased nutrient value – organic compost contains high percentages of macro- and
micro-nutrients, akin to a "natural" organic fertilizer.
 Improved nutrient holding capacity – due to the nature of organic compost, the structure
of the compost will allow it to hold on to nutrients which could easily be leached away in soil
 that is not composted or sandy soil and will thus also help in addressing drainage
problems. Plenty compost thus equates increased soil fertility.
 Improved plant health – there are many beneficial micro-organisms, fungi and bacteria in
organic compost that will help to break down organic matter. This then results in adding new
life to soil and thus improving plant health – really in keeping with the soil
conservation sentiment.

GREEN MANURE
If your budget does not allow you to indulge in spending copious amounts of money on purchasing
organic fertilizer, then green manure is the answer. It is essentially a supplementary means of adding
organic matter to the soil. Green manure provides a great inexpensive way to get organic matter into the
soil where it is required. The types of soil that stand to gain most by green manure is the light sandy
soils. Green manure is achieved by growing a crop on the site where organic matter is needed and
worked directly into the garden soil without having to go via the whole process of decomposing first. The
green-manure crop supplies organic matter as well as additional nitrogen. Crops like legumes are
especially suited for green manure purposes. Legumes can be cut down and left as an organic mulch on
the ground as well. In this way the green manure crops also perform a protective action against erosion
and leaching.

The best legumes to use as green manure are the lupins, beans, cowpeas, alfalfa, clover, cereals grains
like oats and Italian rye grass. Green manure plants are usually grown for a season and just after the first
flowers before seeds are formed, these plants are worked into the garden soil. However for the proper
rotting of the green manure, it is essential that the green manure crop should be succulent and there
should be adequate moisture in the soil. When incorporating a green manure crop into your garden soil
when the crop is at the flowering stage, you will allow for the quick liberation of nitrogen in the available
form. This is mainly due to the fact that all plants at the flowering stage contain the greatest bulk of
succulent organic matter with a low carbon to nitrogen ratio.
MULCH

Organic Mulch

Organic mulch is quite a loose term that describes coarse organic compost or organic matter that is
spread over the surface of the soil. Organic mulch can consist of materials such as compost, peat moss,
leaves, grass clippings, bark chips, nutshells, decomposed animal manure, pine needles, wood shavings,
sawdust and even straw. Organic mulching holds a multitude of benefits.
Benefits of mulching

 Organic mulch adds organic matter to depleted garden soil.

 Organic mulching increases microbial activity.
 Organic mulching serves as protection against harsh sunlight that dries out the soil, and
against soil erosion.
 Organic mulching reduces the need for irrigation as it preserves soil moisture.
 Organic mulch acts as a weed deterrent because it inhibits the growth of unwanted plants.
 Organic mulch protects plants from cold damage as it acts like a blanket.
 Organic mulch is visually appealing since it makes the garden look neat and cared for.
 Organic mulch is also beneficial in that it increases crop production and helps to cultivate
chemical free food with higher nutritional value.

You should however take care that the materials used for mulching is dry and old. As far as possible
avoid making use of thick layers of green materials such as leaves as it will draw nitrogenaway from the
plants that are being mulched. Your plants need nitrogen as it is required for green growth. Only
incorporate well-rotted, old mulch into the garden soil.

Making organic compost

Making compost presents the gardener with an economic and easy way to recycle disease-free garden,
kitchen and general waste. Nowadays there are many ways in which organic compost can be made.
Commercially available you get compost equipment like compost drums, compost turners, compost
aerators, compost makers, compost containers, compost barrels, and compost tumblers. However, since
we are making the assumption that we are gardening on a shoestring budget our compost recipe for
making compost will not require these, sometimes expensive, compost equipment. Instead our organic
compost recipe willshow you how to make compost using a compost heap. Organic compost can be
made in many ways and this compost recipe will be a guideline only.
THE INGREDIENTS FOR MAKING COMPOST
The most suitable materials for composting are all organic materials that will rot or decay easily. These
materials will include:

 Garden waste: non-woody garden prunings, grass cuttings, leaves, flowers, and vegetable
remains.
 Kitchen waste: vegetable peels and leaves, fruit peels and cores, nutshells, cooked table
scraps, tea leaves, egg shells, even stale bread.
 General waste: torn-up newspaper and cardboard boxes, sawdust and wood-shavings,
animal manure, wood-fire ash, and kelp or seaweed.

Unsuitable materials, albeit organic, for the compost heap will be materials such as garden waste that has
been treated with pesticides, kikuyu grass, woody garden clippings, pine needles, rose cuttings and other
cuttings with thorns, bulbs, seeds, runners, toilet waste or septic tank sludge, diseased animal carcasses
and diseased plants, as well as materials such as metals, glass and plastic as they do not decompose
easily. (Tip: Avoid using the same type of organic matter, for example just grass clippings from the lawn
or leaves alone because it has a tendency to form a mat with poor aeration.)
BUILDING THE COMPOST HEAP

 Depending on the amount of compost that you want to make, we recommend digging a
trench into the ground approximately 2 meters by 2 meters.
 Mix the organic materials well and chop up any big pieces.
 Put down about 10 cm of mixed organic material. Start with carbon materials such as wood-
shavings and twigs, follow this by a layer of nitrogenous material like grass clippings and
leaves.
  Add a compost activator to speed up the decomposition process. Commercial compost
activators are available at garden centers and reputable nurseries. Alternatively you may
use a bucketful of mature compost, animal manure, or bone meal as these work the same
as compost activators. (Compost activators are micro-organisms that break down the
organic matter.)
 You can also add garden soil to the growing heap. Garden soil contains many organisms
that will multiply and help the rotting process. Garden soil also contains useful nematodes
such as earthworms. Earthworms are valuable members of the compost heap community.
They eat plant material and produce worm castes that are very rich in nutrients. They also
help to mix the compost ingredients and put air into the heap thereby speeding up the
process of decay.
 Repeat the layering of the compost heap in 10 cm increments. (Tip: The last layer should be
garden soil, dry grass, leaves, or sawdust, as this will keep smells in and not attract flies.)

TURNING THE COMPOST HEAP

When approximately one week has passed, push your hand into the compost heap and you will feel the
heat generated by the decomposition process. After a few weeks the compost heap will have cooled
down. This cooled down compost heap means that you need to turn the compost heap so as to allow it to
heat up again. The heat will kill weed seeds and fly larvae. (Tip: Make use of a compost thermometer.
These are available from garden centers and nurseries.)
To speed up the compost formation in the compost heap it should be turned. Turning encourages
decomposition. The time between 'turnings' of the heap depends on the speed at which decomposition
takes place, and this in turn depends on the ingredients in the heap, and the weather. The correct
temperature range is necessary for composting. The rate of decomposition is much faster during the hot
and humid summer months.
WATERING THE COMPOST HEAP
Organisms require oxygen and moisture to decompose organic matter. So keep the heap moist, but not
water-logged as this inhibits decomposition and will make the compost smell. If it does get too wet, add
absorbent material such as sawdust, straw, or manure, and turn the heap. A badly aerated compost heap
has an unpleasant smell and it is thus necessary to turn the heap over every two to three weeks to help
with aeration. (Tip: The compost heap should be damp, not soggy.)
CONTROLLING PESTS ON THE COMPOST HEAP
A correctly cared for compost heap should not create fly, rat or mouse problems in the garden. Flies can
be controlled in a compost heap by immediately covering new material with dry soil, sawdust, grass or
leaves. Since flies breed in compost, it is necessary to turn the compost heap frequently so that enough
heat is generated to destroy fly eggs and pupae. If you do find large white worms in the compost, destroy
them. They are the larvae of the large black and yellow fruit beetle which does much damage in the
garden.
Do not add meat scraps to the compost as this will attract rats and mice.
Do not use any poisons such as insecticides to control pests as these will stop the decomposition process
by killing the organisms responsible for decomposition, e.g. fungi, earthworms, bacteria.
TROUBLESHOOTING THE COMPOST HEAP
Making compost is really quite easy, but having too much of a certain material or letting the compost get
too wet or too dry can cause problems.
The compost heap is damp and warm in the middle only
This could be the case if the compost heap is too small, or the weather might be too cold and composting
is this slowed down. Ensure that your compost heap is at least 1 meter high and 1 meter wide (1 meter
equals approximately 3 feet.) The compost heap may be smaller if you make use of a compost bin.
The compost heap is stagnant; it does not heat up at all
There are several reasons why the compost heap can appear stagnant. Insufficient nitrogen, insufficient
oxygen, insufficient moisture, cold weather, or simply the compost is finished. In the case of insufficient
nitrogen you should make sure that you have enough nitrogen rich sources like manure, grass clippings
or food scraps. In case of insufficient oxygen you should mix up the compost heap so as to allow it to
breathe. In the case of insufficient moisture you should mix up the compost heap and water it to introduce
some moisture into the compost heap as a dry heap will not compost. In the case of cold weather it is
advisable to wait for spring, cover the heap or make use of a compost bin.
The matted leaves and grass clippings do not decompose
The main reason would be that there is poor aeration of lack of moisture in the compost heap. Address
the situation by avoiding thick layers of just one type of material. Break up the layers and mix up the
compost heap so that the materials mix. Do shred the big materials that are not breaking down well.
The compost heap stinks like vinegar or rotten egg
The main reason for a stinking compost heap could be that there is insufficient oxygen or the compost
heap is too wet or compacted. Aerate the compost heap by mixing it up to enable the compost heap to
breathe. If the problem is caused by too much moisture then add dry materials such as straw, hay or
leaves to soak up all the excess moisture. If the smell is too bad then add dry materials on top of the
compost heap and wait till it dries out before attempting to mix up the compost heap.
The compost heap smells like ammonia
The ammonia smell is caused by insufficient carbon. Remedy the situation by adding brown materials
such as leaves, straw, hay, shredded or torn-up newspaper, etc.
The compost heap is attracting rats, mice, flies, etc
These animals can be attracted by the addition of inappropriate materials to the compost heap. These
materials include items like meat, oil, and bones. Else it can be a situation where the food-like materials
are too close to the surface of the compost heap. You should bury kitchen scraps near the center of the
compost heap. You also should not add inappropriate materials to the compost heap. Alternatively you
can make use of a rodent-proof closed compost bin.
There are fire ants in the compost heap
Fire ants can make their appearance if the compost heap is too dry, or not hot enough, or the kitchen
scraps are too close to the surface of the compost heap. You should make sure that the compost heap
has a good mixture that will heat up and you should keep the compost heap moist.
The compost heap attracts insects, millipedes, slugs, etc
This is a normal situation and part of the natural process of composting. This is not problematic.
HOW TO COMPOST YOUR GARDEN
Compost is mature and ready to use when it looks crumbly and has an earthy smell. It can then be dug
into the top-soil of garden beds or spread as a mulch under trees and bushes. Compost also makes a
very good potting soil mixture for houseplants or seedling trays. (Tip: Under ideal conditions your compost
should be ready after six weeks.) The following are the recommended ways in which to use organic
compost.

 For bed preparation: – the most beneficial way of adding organic compost to the garden is
to add it into the flower bed prior to planting. You should dig over the garden soil. (Tip: Dig
the soil to a depth of about 60 cm, or two spade depths.) Remove root and rubble. Work the
compost into the soil at a ratio of 1 to 2 parts compost to 3 parts of garden soil. (In other
words 30-50% compost per soil area.) Add super-phosphate, hoof- and horn meal or bone
meal at the same time so as to stimulate root growth. If you prepare whole beds, the new
plants will establish much quicker and evenly.
 For individual planting: – you will require a well-prepared hole if you wish to plant in
established beds, or in areas where there is already lawn or paving. Make the whole as
large as possible and place the soil to one side. Add 1 part compost and 2 parts of the soil,
and the required fertilizer (depending on the plants) and mix. Use this mixture to fill the hole
and spread the rest of the mixture around your new plant. (Tip: Do not place a layer of
compost at the bottom of the hole as it may cause root burn.
 For potting and bagging purposes: – making your own potting soil is easy. All that is
required is adding a measly 30% compost to soil. Too much compost will be too rich and
might cause root burn or hold too much water.
 For soil enhancement purposes after planting: – soil amendments have to be made on a
regular basis to keep plants healthy. Soil amendment is best made by placing a layer of
compost approximately 10 cm thick over the flower bed and working it into the soil with a
 garden fork. Many people opt to use their mulch from the last season in this fashion and
then add a new layer for the new season.

Plant Nutrition
Plants require nutrients to grow and develop, much the same like people. We eat so our bodies can get
the vital nutrients and minerals to grow healthy. This brings to mind the saying "you are what you eat" and
it is the same with plants. Poor feeding and low nutrient levels will result in poor or diminished growth and
low food, flowering and fruit production. As mentioned in organic matter we need to supplement the
nutrient value of the garden soil by making soil amendments in the form of adding fertilizers, preferably
organic fertilizer. These nutrients include Carbon, Nitrogen, Calcium, Hydrogen, Phosphorous,
Magnesium, Oxygen, Potassium, Sulphur, Iron, Zinc, Chlorine, Manganese, Boron, Copper, and
Molybdenum. Soil is the most important source of plant food.
These nutrients, present in both chemical and organic fertilizer comes in two major categories: macro
elements and micro elements.
MACRO ELEMENTS
Macro elements refer to the main elements that are required by the plant for its basic functioning. These
main elements are:

 Oxygen and Hydrogen which can be found readily available in water as well as the air.

 Nitrogen and Carbon which can be found in the air and in organic soil. (Especially the
carbon dioxide present in the air.)
 Potassium and Phosphorous which can also be found in organic soil.

Of these macro elements Carbon, which is obtained from carbon dioxide of the air; Oxygen, which is
obtained from air and water; and Hydrogen, which is obtained from water, are required by plants to build
its basic cell structure. Thus it is most fortunate that these elements are the most commonly found
elements and are required by all living creatures, therefore it is seldom that you need to provide additional
carbon, oxygen or hydrogen. Potassium, Phosphorous and Nitrogen, on the other hand, are usually
lacking and supplements of these need to be provided for the plants. These are thus the main ingredients
in the most basic chemical and organic fertilizer.

Nitrogen (N)
The role of Nitrogen in plants cannot be emphasized enough; Nitrogen encourages development of
plants, it is responsible for healthy green leaf growth which is the result of the formation of chlorophyll,
which is the main unit for the production of carbohydrates, proteins and oxygen. Therefore, plants that
exhibit a Nitrogen deficiency will show symptoms like stunted growth and pale green and yellow leaves.
There are also claims that Nitrogen controls, the efficient utilization of phosphorous and Potassium. The
plant's dependency on Nitrogen can also lead to retarded root growth and resulting in the foliage turning
yellow and pale green and increasing the plant’s susceptibility to disease.

Phosphorous (P)
Phosphorous is responsible for cell development and the promotion of good root growth, particularly in
fibrous roots, the vigor of the plant. Plants that suffer from a phosphorous deficiencywill have poor root
development and show symptoms like stunted growth, though it is not as easily recognizable at those
symptoms of Nitrogen deficiency. Phosphorous deficiency is also manifested in the leaves that turn
purplish in color when it is not the natural foliage or leaf color of that plant, mainly due to the abnormal
increase in the sugar content and the formation ofanthocyanin.
Potassium (K)
Potassium is responsible for chlorophyll formation which plays an important part in the strength of cells
and encourages flower and fruit formation. Thus Potassium can enhance the ability of the plant to resist
plant diseases, insect attacks and cold conditions as Potassium performs a vital role in the formation of
starch as well the production and translocation of sugars in the plant. Plants that exhibit symptoms
of Potassium deficiency will have like weak stems. Other symptoms of Potassium deficiency include
older leaves that are floppy with yellow tips and brown margins.

A note of caution though; an excess of Potassium may tend to delay maturity, though, not to be the same
extent as nitrogen.

Secondary macro elements

There are also secondary macro nutrients such as Calcium, Magnesium and Sulfur.
Calcium (Ca)
Calcium is responsible for the construction of cell walls and promoting proper functioning of growing
tissue. Fortunately Calcium occurs naturally in organic soil and there is usually no need for any calcium
supplements to be added to organic garden soil. A Calcium deficiency in soil only coccurs in
extremely acid soil. This is why most plants struggle to grow in acid soil. Usually, treating and amending
the soil pH level will alleviate the Calcium deficiency.
Magnesium (Mg)
Magnesium (Mg) also occurs naturally in organic soil which usually makes adding any magnesium
supplements to garden soil rather superfluous. Magnesium deficiency symptoms are manifested as the
yellowing of older leaves. Magnesium is part of chlorophyll and thus plays a role in photosynthesis.
Sulfur (S)
Sulfur (S) or Flowers of Sulfur as it is known also occur naturally in organic soil. Most chemical and
organic fertilizer also contains Sulfur which makes Sulfur deficiency very rare. If Sulfur deficiency does
occur, it shows up in the form of stunted growth and yellow foliage, much the same as nitrogen deficiency
as Sulfur forms part of plant protein and plays a role in the formation of chlorophyll.
MICRO ELEMENTS
Micro elements are also known as trace elements and sometimes people even call them the "multi
vitamins" for plants. The micro elements of plants are made up
of Iron (Fe), Zinc (Zn),Manganese (MN), Boron (B), Molybdenum (Mo) and Copper (Cu). A
Molybdenum deficiency produces whip-tail in some vegetable crops such as cauliflower, broccoli and
other Brassica species. The Molybdenum deficiency will reduce the activity of the symbiotic and non-
symbiotic nitrogen-fixing micro-organisms. A Boron deficiency can manifest itself in varying forms that are
dependent on the type of plants and the age of the particular plants afflicted with the deficiency, the
particular type of conditions in which the plants is cultivated, etc. Each type of crop produces its
characteristic growth abnormalities associated with boron deficiency: a few examples can be seen as the
die-back and corking of apples, the yellowing and resetting of Lucerne crops and related grass type
crops, the corking and pitting of tomatoes, even the hollow stem and bronzing of curd in brassica types,
etc. It is seldom that a micro element deficiency occurs. Many plant foodformulations contain these trace
elements. However, if there is a deficiency it is normally manifested as discolored foliage, poor leaf
maturation and poor fruiting.
To prevent all these deficiencies from ruining your garden experience and to ensure healthy growth and
abundant flowering and fruiting you should make sure that your garden has all twelve of these elements
available to them. By practicing organic gardening and keeping your garden soil healthy these
deficiencies are addressed by means of organic soil amendments. (TIP: Ensure that your garden
receives all of them through your plants' growth season, generally either the winter or the summer cycle.)
What is inorganic fertilizer? An inorganic fertilizer is one derived from mineral or chemical
substances, such as phosphate rock, potash salts, and nitrate salts (nitrate of soda).

What is organic fertilizer? An organic fertilizer is one which is derived from organic materials -
plant or animal substances. All are compounds of carbon. Some of these materials, such as
cottonseed meal, bone meal, tankage, and castor pomace, may add small amounts of humus as
well as nutrients to the soil. Others, such as urea or ureaform, may not add humus

Organic fertilizers are those that are made by making use of the substances that occur naturally. They
also include the wasteful remains of the animals as well as dead plants. Organic fertilizers are known for
being chemically rich as they contain nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus in large quantities. 

An inorganic fertilizer, also known as a chemical fertilizer or a synthetic fertilizer is artificially made in the
labs and contains all the vital nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphors and potassium, which are present in
the organic fertilizers. Unlike organic fertilizers, inorganic fertilizers do not have to be broken down before
being absorbed by plants as the nutrients present in them are easily absorbed.

norganic Fertilizers: Advantages and Disadvantages

The main advantage that inorganic fertilizers have over organic fertilizers is that they can be used
immediately to rescue dying plants. This is because the nutrients present in them are easily absorbed by
the plants and unlike the nutrients present in organic fertilizers, do not need to be broken into primary
nutrients for absorption by plants. Organic fertilizers effects can get delayed and by that time a plant can
die completely. 

Another advantage that inorganic fertilizers have over organic fertilizers is that they are easily available at
most gardening stores and hence, are quite convenient to use. On the other hand, making inorganic
fertilizers can take a lot of time as well as effort. Decomposition process in making organic fertilizers is
time consuming, which delays the making of organic fertilizers. 

The main disadvantage of inorganic fertilizers is that it costs much higher than the organic fertilizers. So, if
someone is using fertilizers in bulk, organic fertilizers are much more cost effective. The second
disadvantage of using inorganic fertilizers is the problem of leeching, i.e. the fertilizer and the nutrients
getting washed away, is much more prevalent when inorganic fertilizers are used. This is because in
inorganic fertilizers, the nutrients are already in their most basic components, and hence, can be washed
away easily, if the plant roots are over watered or watered with force. 

Another disadvantage of inorganic fertilizers is that besides the essential nutrients required by plants, they
contain certain compounds and salts which a plant is unable to absorb and hence, are left behind in the
soil. With time, these compounds build up in the soil and can even change its chemistry. This can render
the soil less than ideal for future plantations. Lastly, over usage of inorganic fertilizers can prove to be
detrimental for the plants. Too much of it can burn or destroy the plant structures, including the roots,
which can hamper the plant's over all development. 
advantage of organic

These days, there is so much hype about organic fertilizers and its benefits. Most of us who
have gotten used to chemical fertilizers are still skeptical whether facts are stretched too
much to make it more appealing. Let us take a quick look at some of the advantages of
using organic fertilizers so that you can decide whether it is really necessary to switch to
organic fertilizer and organic gardening.

Long before the existence of synthetic fertilizers, plants obtained nutrients from
decomposed organic matter such as bone, blood, fish and other organic waste, however it
was the growth of farming and crop production that brought about so called "need" for
synthetic fertilizers. As more research and studies have been conducted, the detrimental
effects of chemical fertilizers are being made aware and more people and environmental
groups are beginning to tout the advantages of the organic fertilizers that are readily
available now.

Probably the most noteworthy advantage of organic fertilizers is the fact that they are
mostly insoluble and therefore are slower to release nutrients to the plant. This reduces the
leaching effect that results from most chemical fertilizers that causes so many problems.
Plants can only uptake so many nutrients at a time and in most cases the plants will not
uptake all of the nutrients from a synthetic fertilizer application. Additionally, the likelihood
of burning plants due to the overuses is almost non-existent as the overuse of chemical
fertilizers can result in the burning and even killing of plants and turf.

Organic fertilizers also help to improve soil quality. Poor soil can only be improved through
the introduction of organic matter, which is what organic fertilizer is. The consistent use of
chemicals creates plant life dependent upon synthetic fertilization as these fertilizers only
work at the plant level. Consequently you may see fluctuations in the vibrance and quality
of the plant in between fertilizations. Through the introduction of organic matter and
resulting improvement of the soil and stimulation of soil microbial activity, an environment
can be created to better support plant life and provide a slow and consistent flow of
nutrients to the plant thus creating a harmonious balance between soil and plant.

The other part about using organic fertilizers is selecting the right one as there are so many.
Typically organic fertilizers will only be high in one of the 3 key plant nutrients, Nitrogen,
Phosphorous and Potassium (NPK). For this reason it is important to understand the needs
of your plant to help determine which organic fertilizer or combination of organic fertilizers
you should choose to provide the necessary nutrients. Or, you may simply want to add
organic fertilizers to improve your soil quality, in which cases there are products better
suited for that too.

No matter how you slice it, organic fertilizers are the only option for creating a long lasting
and healthy plant/ soil environment that is ecologically responsible economically viable for
the long run.

The use of organic fertilizers is currently the topic of hot debates in most gardening circles. Many who still support the
use of chemical fertilizers believe that while organic fertilizers may be naturally derived they do not have many other
advantages over chemical fertilizers. On the contrary, organic fertilizers do have many advantages over chemical
fertilizers and we present, for the benefit of the naysayers, the top five advantages of organic fertilizers.
1.    Slow Release of Nutrients.
When fertilizers are mixed into the soil, the nutrients are absorbed from the soil by the roots of the plant. In chemical
fertilizers, these nutrients are in ready to use form and when mixed into the soil, can be immediately absorbed by the
roots and hence, the plant. There is however a real danger that the roots absorb more nutrients than necessary,
causing the roots and plant to burn up. On the other hand, organic fertilizers do not contain nutrients in easily usable
form. When they are mixed into the soil, the microorganisms like bacteria that are in the soil, have to work on the
fertilizer, break it up and release the nutrients. This is a slow process and so there is no danger that too many
nutrients are ever available to the plant. As such there is no chance for a ‘plant burn’ when organic fertilizers are
used.
2.    Long-term Benefits to the Soil.
Chemical fertilizers are manufactured with the sole purpose of helping the growth of a plant. As a result while they
may contain a betterbalance of all the major nutrients that a plant needs, they also contain certain harmful elements
that can cause acidity in the soil. This can kill the helpful microbes that live in the soil and studies indicate that long-
term use of chemical fertilizers can cause great damage to the soil. On the other hand, since organic fertilizers need
these microbes to work on them to release the nutrients, they end up stimulating the growth of these microorganisms,
ensuring long-term fertility of the soil.
3.    Long-term Benefits to the Environment.
Chemical fertilizers also tend to release many chemicals into the soil that contain nutrients helpful to soil but may also
contain elements that are not easily biodegradable. These may go on to contaminate our lands and our water. On the
other hand, by definition, organic fertilizers almost always have only biodegradable contents.
4.    Cheap and Cost-Effective.
Organic Fertilizers can be produced at home or on farms by using a mix of cow, sheep and horse manure along with
wastes like leaves and dead plants. This is a great way of getting rid of waste from your garden or farm and certainly
a cheaper alternative to purchasingchemical fertilizers.
5.    Safety.
When lawns and gardens are sprayed with chemical fertilizers, one has to be careful that the family members,
especially kids and pets who often play on lawns, do not ingest the harmful chemicals. However, there is no
preventing from local wildlife from being affected.Organic fertilizers raise no such concerns and can be used safely.

The Disadvantages of Using Organic Fertilizers

Takes longer time

Some plants grow sick and are malnourished. Some are even on the verge of dying. AT this point, plants
need an immediate intervention. Meaning it needs high doses of nutrients fast. This is possible with the
use of an organic fertilizer but not with an organic fertilizer. The slow and sustained release of nutrients by
the organic fertilizer cannot be made to hasten in order to meet the needs of a dying plant. If you wait for
the organic fertilizer to release everything it has stored, the plant may die during the long wait.

Organic fertilizers are broken down into basic nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
These are not available in appropriate proportions. It could be that the nitrogen is more abundant than the
rest. The plants may end up absorbing a lot of one nutrient over the others. This is similar to having an
unbalanced diet. Plants will not grow beautifully.

High demand, low supply

If you have a big garden it is advisable to use organic fertilizers so that it will not be too costly. However,
organic fertilizers enough for a big garden is not readily available. While you can make you on organic
fertilizer by composting, you really need a lot to fertilize a big garden. The wastes from the house can only
make so much organic fertilizers that it is not enough. Furthermore, it takes awhile to prepare organic
fertilizers.

Simple but messy and inconvenient

It is very simple to make compost. There are even a lot of recipes for organic fertilizers available.
However, whipping it up can get messy not to mention it may also smell unpleasant from the rotting of the
organic ingredients. A lot of people find making compost far more trouble than what it’s worth. Hence,
they’d rather pay a price for a little bit of convenience.

Organic fertilizers indeed offer a lot of benefits but it has its drawbacks as well. Better consider the pros
and cons before even deciding on which path to go.

Advantages of Using Organic Fertilizers

All natural

Organic fertilizers usually composts are made by decomposing biodegradable wastes. These wastes may
include paper, leaves, fruit peelings, leftover foods and even fruit juices. These are all natural and the
process of decomposing them needs no chemicals either. An abundance of worms are all it takes to
decompose these wastes and turn it into organic fertilizer. You don’t have to worry about build up of toxic
wastes because that is not happening with an all natural source of ingredients.

Make the soil rich

Organic fertilizers make a good addition to the soil. It makes the soil rich and ideal for planting. With a
good soil, plants will get the nutrients that they need. Furthermore, organic fertilizers do not upset the
balance in the soil as it does not leave behind any artificial compounds.

Transforms unhealthy soil

If the soil in your garden is not the rich and loamy type, but instead it is sandy or may have a lot of tiny
gravel in it or a high concentration pf clay perhaps are not a good area for planting. Sandy soil does not
hold water and not even the roots of the plants. Clay tends to clump. Adding organic fertilizers to these
will improve the content and quality of the soil making it more suitable for planting.

Corrects imbalances

As the soil goes through the plants cycle of planting and harvesting and de-cropping, it becomes stripped
bare of nutrients and the pH balance is also affected as well. Organic fertilizers help correct these
imbalances in the soil pH to make it more suitable for plant growth.
Delivers nutrients in a slow but sustained rate

Organic fertilizers are yet to be broken down completely into nutrients that the plants will absorb. Nutrients
are delivered slowly in small increments as the organic fertilizer is slowly breaking down. The plants do
not get shocked by a sudden high dose of nutrients being delivered that comes with using inorganic
fertilizers. Over fertilizing which can be harmful to the plants can be avoided. Furthermore incidents where
the roots get burned from direct application of high hoses of fertilizer can also be avoided.
Cost- effective

The raw material needed to make an organic fertilizer can be found even in our homes. Biodegradable
wastes can be recycled and turned into compost.

Advantages of Using Inorganic Fertilizers

• Works immediately

Inorganic fertilizers are usually given as a “rescue treatment” to plants that are malnourished, unhealthy
or even dying. Inorganic fertilizers are appropriate in this situation because the nutrients needed by the
plants are readily available. In comparison, using an organic fertilizer would mean that the plant has to
wait until the components of the organic fertilizer have been broken down first into its primary nutrients.
By then, the plant could be dead already.

• Contains all necessary nutrients that are ready to use

Inorganic fertilizers are designed to give plants all the nutrients-Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium
that they need in appropriate proportions and amounts. Hence, plants do not get more of one can of
nutrient over the other. Instead it has a balance of all the nutrients it needs and are readily available at a
given time. Adding inorganic fertilizers into the soil to be planted makes the soil ideal for planting as it is
already enriched with nutrients.

• Affordable

You do not have to spend much on buying an inorganic fertilizer because it is relatively cheap. Of course,
it is not as cost-effective when compared to using compost. Yet, for the convenience that it gives you
when it comes to caring for your plants, an inorganic fertilizer is a very good deal already.

• Convenient to use

It takes awhile to make your own organic fertilizer. Though the process is relatively easy to do, still you
need to delegate enough time to do the task and wait for the decomposition part to take place. It takes
awhile. With an inorganic fertilizer, you save a lot of time and effort. Inorganic fertilizers are quite cheap
and even easier to use and prepare. They are available at almost every gardening store.

The Disadvantages of Using Inorganic Fertilizers

• Leeching happens

Inorganic fertilizers contain nutrients that have been broken down already into the most basic of its
components for easy absorption by the plants. Yet, it can also be washed away easily when watering or
irrigating the plants. This is called leeching. Leeching happens very often as you water your plants.
Hence, a lot of the fertilizer goes to waste. Nitrogen is one of the elements that easily get washed away
since it usually settles below the roots of the plants quickly.This is called leeching, and it happens very
often. When you’re using inorganic fertilizers you need to pay special attention to the roots of the plant
when you’re watering it and not over water the area so that you’re not encouraging the leeching of the
nutrients in the soil.

• Some are not affordable

Generally, inorganic fertilizers are inexpensive. Yet, some specially formulated inorganic fertilizers come
at a cost that are considerably higher than most.

• Accumulation of toxic wastes

Inorganic fertilizers are not entirely composed of the nutrients needed by the plants. It also contains salts
and other compounds. These are not absorbed by the plants so they are left behind in the soil and build
up over time. When found in large amounts in the soils, these compounds can alter the chemistry of the
soil that makes it less ideal for planting. Often times, the soil needs to be neutralized using other
substances to return it to a normal state that is suitable for planting. Furthermore, these toxic compounds
may also get washed away when you water your plants and seep into groundwater. It has been reported
that the toxic wastes from fertilizers contaminating the water we drink is bad for the health.

• Too much is not a good thing

Fertilizers are good sources of nutrients for plants. However, too much of it can also be harmful to the
plants. Applying the fertilizer directly to the plants may burn the delicate plant structures such as the roots.
This could affect the over-all development of the plant.

Inorganic fertilizers have both good and bad points. Should you consider using them, better maximize and
the advantages and try to prevent all its avoidable disadvantages.

Organic Fertilizers
Naturally occurring fertilizers include:

 Manure
 Worm castings
  Peat moss
 Seaweed
 Sewage
 Guano
Organic fertilizers are used to enrich soil through nitrogen
fixation from the atmosphere by bacterial nodules on plant roots,
as well as phosphorus content of soils. Processed organic
materials from natural sources include compost, blood meal
powdered blood, and bone (crushed ground bones) meal from
organic meat production facilities, and seaweed extracts.
There is more diversity with organic fertilizers, so choosing the
right one is not always easy. In general organic fertilizers cannot
cause plant burns, get into ground water, affect surrounding
growth, and do not need as strict of watering schedules.
Benefits of Organic Material
By nature organic fertilizers provide increased physical and
biological storage mechanisms to soils, reducing risks of over
fertilization. Organic fertilizers nutrient content, solubility, and
nutrient release rates are typically much lower than inorganic
fertilizers. Over fertilization of a vital nutrient can be as
detrimental as under fertilization to a plant. Fertilizer burn can
occur when to much fertilizer is applied resulting in the drying
out of roots along with damage and even death to plants. All
organic fertilizers are classified as slow release fertilizers.
Studies have found that organic fertilizers:
  Release between 25% to 60% of nitrogen as inorganic.
 Controlled release fertilizers had a relatively constant rate
of release.
 Soluble fertilizer released most of its nitrogen content at the
first leaching.

Inorganic Fertilizers
Naturally occurring inorganic fertilizers include sodium nitrate,
mined rock phosphate and lime stone which is used to raise pH
and calcium sources.
Macronutrients and Micronutrients
Fertilizers can be divided into macronutrients and micronutrients
based on their concentration levels in dry plant matter. There are
six macronutrients; nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (3 main
primary elements), calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.
Macronutrient Fertilizers
Synthesized materials are also called artificial, and may also be
called straight were a product contains the three primary
elements of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Fertilizers are
named according to the content of the three elements in the
fertilizer. If the main ingredient in the fertilizer is nitrogen, then
the fertilizer will be described as a nitrogen fertilizer. But
regardless of the name of the fertilizer they are labeled
according to the amounts of each of these primary elements, by
their weight.
The amount of nitrogen will encourage growth of stems and
leaves by promoting protein and chlorophyll. More Flowers,
bigger fruits, and healthier roots will result from added
phosphorus, and it will also help plants resist certain diseases.
Potassium thickens stems and leaves by fostering protein
development, meaning the vegetables would prefer a different
potassium ratio than flowers or fruit plants would.

Fertilizer Types
Soil amendments are made by adding fertilizer to the soil but there are different types of fertilizers. There
is bulky organic fertilizer such as cow manure, bat guano, bone meal, organic compost and green
manure crops. And then there is also chemical fertilizer which is also referred to as inorganic
fertilizer and is made up with different formulations to suit a variety of specified uses. Though many
governments and agricultural departments go to great lengths to increase the supply of organic fertilizers,
such as bulky organic manures and composting materials, there is just not enough of these fertilizers
available to meet the existing and future fertilizer needs. Compared to organic compost, chemical or
inorganic fertilizers also have the added advantage of being less bulky. Being less bulky makes chemical
fertilizer easier to transport, both overland and from the soil into the plants itself, because they get to be
available to the plant relatively quickly when incorporated as part of the plant-food constituents. Chemical
fertilizer usually comes in either granular or powder form in bags and boxes, or in liquid formulations in
bottles. The different types of chemical fertilizers are usually classified according to the three principal
elements, namely Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K), and may, therefore, be included
in more than one group.
ORGANIC AND INORGANIC CHEMICAL NITROGENOUS FERTILIZER TYPES
This type of fertilizer is divided into different groups according to the manner in which the Nitrogen
combines with other elements. These groups are:

 Sodium Nitrates,
 Ammonium Sulphate and ammonium salts,
 Chemical compounds that contains Nitrogen in amide form, and
 Animal and plant by products.
Sodium Nitrates
Sodium Nitrates are also known as Chilates or Chilean nitrate. The Nitrogen contained in Sodium Nitrate
is refined and amounts to 16%. This means that the Nitrogen is immediately available to plants and as
such is a valuable source of Nitrogen in a type of fertilizer. When one makes a soil amendment using
Sodium Nitrates as a type of fertilizer in the garden, it is usually as a top- and side-dressing. Particularly
when nursing young plants and garden vegetables. In soil that is acidic Sodium Nitrate is quite useful as a
type of fertilizer. However, the excess use of Sodium Nitrate may cause deflocculation.

Ammonium Sulphate
This fertilizer type comes in a white crystalline salt form, containing 20 to 21% ammonia cal nitrogen. It
is easy to handle and it stores well under dry conditions. However, during the rainy season, it sometimes,
forms lumps. (TIP: When these lumps do occur you should grind them down to a powered form before
use.) Though this fertilizer type is soluble in water, its nitrogen is not readily lost in drainage, because the
ammonium ion is retained by the soil particles. A note of caution: Ammonium sulphate may have an acid
effect on garden soil. Over time, the long-continued use of this type of fertilizer will increase soil acidity
and thus lower the yield. (TIP: It is advisable to use this fertilizer type together with bulky organic manures
to safeguard against the ill effects of continued application of ammonium sulphate.)

The application of Ammonium sulphate fertilizer can be done before sowing, at sowing time, or even as a
top-dressing to the growing crop. Do however take care NOT to apply it along with, or too close to, the
seed, because in concentrated form, it affects seed germination very adversely.

Ammonium Nitrate
This fertilizer type also comes in white crystalline salts. Ammonium Nitrate salts contains 33 to
35% nitrogen, of which half is nitrate nitrogen and the other half in the ammonium form. As part of the
ammonium form, this type of fertilizer cannot be easily leached from the soil. This fertilizer is quick-acting,
but highly hygroscopic thus making it unfit for storage. (TIP: Coagulation and Granulation of this fertilizer
can be combated with a light coating of the granules with oil.) On a note of caution: Ammonium Nitrate
also has an acid effect on the soil, in addition this type of fertilizer can be explosive under certain
conditions, and, should thus be handled with care.

'Nitro Chalk' is the trade name of a product formed by mixing ammonium nitrate with about 40% lime-
stone or dolomite. This fertilizer is granulated, non-hazardous and less hygroscopic. The lime content of
this fertilizer type makes it useful for application to acidic garden soils.

Ammonium Sulphate Nitrate

This fertilizer type is available as a mixture of ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulphate and is
recognizable as a white crystal or as dirty-white granules. This fertilizer contains 26% nitrogen, three-
fourths of it in the ammoniac form and the remainder (i.e. 6.5%) as nitrate nitrogen. Ammonium Sulphate
Nitrate is non-explosive, readily soluble in water and is very quick-acting. Because this type of fertilizer
keeps well, it is very useful for all crops. Though it can also render garden soil acidic, the acidifying effects
is only one-half of that of ammonium sulphate on garden soil. Application of this fertilizer type can be
done before sowing, at sowing time or as a top-dressing, but it should not be applied along the seed.

Ammonium Chloride
This fertilizer type comes in a white crystalline compound, which contains a good physical condition
and 26% ammoniac nitrogen. In general, Ammonium Chloride is similar to ammonium sulphate in action.
(TIP: Do not use this type of fertilizer on crops such as tomatoes because the chorine may harm your
crop.)

Urea
This type of fertilizer usually is available to the public in a white, crystalline, organic form. It is a highly
concentrated nitrogenous fertilizer and fairly hygroscopic. This also means that this fertilizer can be quite
difficult to apply. Urea is also produced in granular or pellet forms and is coated with a non-hygroscopic
inert material. It is highly soluble in water and therefore, subject to rapid leaching. It is, however, quick-
acting and produces quick results. When applied to the soil, its nitrogen is rapidly changed into ammonia.
Similar to ammonium nitrate, urea supplies nothing but nitrogen and the application of Urea as fertilizer
can be done at sowing time or as a top-dressing, but should not be allowed to come into contact with the
seed.

Ammonia
This fertilizer type is a gas that is made up of about 80% of nitrogen and comes in a liquid form as well
because under the right conditions regarding temperature and pressure, Ammonia becomes liquid
(anhydrous ammonia). Another form, 'aqueous ammonia', results from the absorption of Ammonia gas
into water, in which it is soluble. Ammonia is used as a fertilizer in both these forms. The anhydrous liquid
form of Ammonia can be applied by introducing it into irrigation water, or directly into the soil from special
containers. Not really suitable for the home gardener as this renders the use of ammonia as a fertilizer
very expensive.

Organic Nitrogenous Fertilizers

Organic Nitrogenous fertilizer is the type of fertilizer that includes plant and animal by-products. These
by-products can be anything from oil cakes, to fish manure and even to dried blood. The Nitrogen
available in organic nitrogenous fertilizer types first has to be converted before the plants can use it. This
conversion occurs through bacterial action and is thus a slow process. The upside of this situation is that
the supply of available nitrogen lasts so much longer AND the amounts of this type of fertilizer may
contain small amounts of organic stimulants that contain other minor elements that might also be needed
by the plants that are being fertilized. Furthermore, they may also small amounts of organic stimulants
that they may contain, or of some of the minor elements needed by plant. Oil-cakes contain not only
nitrogen but also some phosphoric and potash, besides a large quantity of organic matter. This type of
fertilizer is used in conjunction with quicker-acting chemical fertilizers.

Then there is also blood meal which contains 10 to 12% highly available Nitrogen as well as 1 to
2% Phosphoric acid. Blood meal, used in much the same way as oilcakes, makes for a quick remedy and
can effectively be used on all types of soil as a type of fertilizer.

Fish meal which can be dried fish, fish-meal or even powder is extracted in areas where fish oil is
extracted. The resulting residue is used as a fertilizer type. Obviously depending on the type of fish used,
the available Nitrogen can be between 5 and 8% and the Phosphoric content can be from 4 to 6%. Fish
meal also constitutes a fast-acting fertilizer type which is suitable for most soil types and crops. (TIP: In
powder form it is at its best.)
ORGANIC AND INORGANIC CHEMICAL PHOSPHATE FERTILIZER TYPES
The Phosphate fertilizers are categorized as natural phosphates, either treated or processed, and also by
products of phosphates and chemical phosphates.

Rock Phosphate
As a type of fertilizer, rock phosphate occurs as natural deposits in some countries. This fertilizer type
has its advantages and disadvantages. The advantage is that with adequate rainfall this fertilizer results in
a long growing period which can enhance crops. Powdered phosphate fertilizer is an excellent remedy for
soils that are acidic and has a phosphorous deficiency and requires soil amendments.

However, the disadvantage is that although phosphate fertilizer such as rock phosphate contains 25 to
35% phosphoric acid, the phosphorous is insoluble in water. It has to be pulverized to be used as a type
of fertilizer before rendering satisfactory results in garden soil. Thus it is not surprising that Rock
Phosphate is used to manufacture superphosphate which makes the Phosphoric acid water soluble.

Superphosphate
Superphosphate is a fertilizer type that most gardeners are familiar with. As a fertilizer type one can get
superphosphate in three different grades, depending on the manufacturing process. The following is a
short description of the different superphosphate fertilizer grades:
  Single superphosphate containing 16 to 20% phosphoric acid;
 Dicalcium phosphate containing 35 to 38% phosphoric acid; and
 Triple superphosphate containing 44 to 49% phosphoric acid.

Triple superphosphate is used mostly in the manufacture of concentrated mixed fertilizer types.

The greatest advantage to be had of using Superphosphate as a fertilizer is that the phosphoric acid is
fully water soluble, but when Superphosphate is applied to the soil, it is converted into soluble phosphate.
This is due to precipitation as calcium, iron or aluminum phosphate, which is dependent on the soil type to
which the fertilizer is added, be it alkaline or acidic garden soil. All garden soil types can benefit from the
application of Superphosphate as a fertilizer. Used in conjunction with an organic fertilizer, it should be
applied at sowing or transplant time.

Slag
Basic slag is a by-product of steel mills and is used as a fertilizer to a lesser extent than Superphosphate.
Slag is an excellent fertilizer that can be used to amend soils that are acidic because of its alkaline
reaction. For slag application to be an effective fertilizer it has to be pulverized first.

Bonemeal
Bonemeal as a fertilizer type needs no introduction. Bone-meal is used as a phosphate fertilizer type and
is available in two types: raw and steamed. The raw bone-meal contains 4% organic Nitrogen that is
slow acting, and 20 to 25% phosphoric acid that is not soluble in water. The steamed bone-meal on the
other hand has all the fats, greases, nitrogen and glue-making substances removed as a result of high
pressure steaming. But it is more brittle and can be ground into a powder form. In powder form this
fertilizer is of great advantage to the gardener in that the rate of availability of the phosphoric acid
depends on its pulverization. This fertilizer is particularly suitable as a soil amendment for acid soil and
should be applied either at sowing time or even a few days prior to sowing. (TIP: As a fertilizer type, bone-
meal is slow acting and should be incorporated into the soil and not as a top-dressing.)
ORGANIC AND INORGANIC CHEMICAL POTASSIUM FERTILIZER TYPES
Chemical Potassium fertilizer should only be added when there is absolute certainty that there is
a Potassium deficiency in your garden soil. Potassium fertilizers also work well in sandy garden soil that
responds to their application. Crops such as chilies, potato and fruit trees all benefit from this type of
fertilizer since it improves the quality and appearance of the produce. There are basically two different
types of potassium fertilizers:

 Muriate of potash (Potassium chloride) and

 Sulphate of potash (Potassium sulphate).

Both muriate of potash and sulphate of potash are salts that make up part of the waters of the oceans and
inland seas as well as inland saline deposits.

Muriate Of Potash
Muriate of potash is a gray crystal type of fertilizer that consists of 50 to 60% potash. All the potash in
this fertilizer type is readily available to plants because it is highly soluble in water. Even so, it does not
leach away deep into the soil since the potash is absorbed on the colloidal surfaces. (TIP: Apply muriate
of potash at sowing time or prior to sowing.)

Sulphate Of Potash
Sulphate of potash is a fertilizer type manufactured when potassium chloride is treated with magnesium
sulphate. It dissolves readily in water and can be applied to the garden soil at any time up to sowing.
Some gardeners prefer using sulphate of potash over muriate of potash.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF FERTILIZERS
The different types of fertilizers with all its specifications and cautions that should be kept in mind should
not detract us from the joys of gardening. Thus to make it easier on most gardeners and since this
website is dedicated to the home gardener and growing our own gardens the following section is geared
towards the home gardener.

The different types of chemical and organic fertilizers that are usually commercially available in most
countries can be categorized further into:

 Complete inorganic fertilizers: – these types of inorganic fertilizers contain all three major
macronutrients, Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K). On the containers you
will find that these macronutrients are depicted as a ratio, e.g. 2:3:2 (22). Complete
inorganic fertilizers are usually applied at a rate of 60g/m2 or roughly 4 tablespoons per
square meter.
 Special purpose fertilizer: – these types of fertilizer are formulated especially to target
certain plants' requirements or certain soil deficiencies. Of the examples that come to mind
here are the Blue Hydrangea Food, and straight fertilizer that is made up of one particular
plant nutrient for example lawn fertilizer.
 Liquid fertilizers: – these types of fertilizer come in a variety of formulations and even
include organic fertilizer, complete fertilizer as well as special purpose fertilizer. Some
examples of liquid fertilizer are Nitrosol and African Violet Food.
 Slow-release fertilizer: – these types of fertilizer are formulated to release their nitrogen at
a steady pace. On the packs of this fertilizer that are available commercially it will usually be
depicted as 3:1:5 (SR) where the SR indicates slow-release.
 Fertilizer with insecticide: – these types of fertilizer that are prepared and combined with
an insecticide. One such example is Wonder 4:1:1 (21) + Karbaspray.

The reason why there are so many different types of chemical fertilizers in different formulations is
because different plants require different nutrients and different pH levels in the soil. However, organic
fertilizers have more diversity, and these types of fertilizers do not burn plant roots, get into ground water,
or affect surrounding growth as is the case when using the different types of chemical fertilizer and NPK
amendments.

In our next section we'll discuss how to apply the differnt types of fertilizers in much more detail

Application
Synthetic fertilizers are commonly used to treat fields used for growing maize, followed
by barley, sorghum, rapeseed, soy and sunflower[citation needed]. One study has shown that application of
nitrogen fertilizer on off-season cover crops can increase the biomass (and subsequent green
manure value) of these crops, while having a beneficial effect on soil nitrogen levels for the main crop
planted during the summer season.[8]

Nutrients in soil can be thrown out of balance with high concentrations of fertilizers. The
interconnectedness and complexity of this soil ‘food web’ means any appraisal of soil function must
necessarily take into account interactions with the living communities that exist within the soil. Stability of
the system is reduced by the use of nitrogen-containing fertilizers, which cause soil acidification[citation needed].
Applying excessive amounts of fertilizer has environmental impacts, and wastes the growers time and
money. To avoid over application, the nutrient status of crops can be assessed. Nutrient deficiency can
be detected by visually assessing the physical symptoms of the crop. Nitrogen deficiency, for example
has a distinctive presentation in some species. However, quantitative tests are more reliable for detecting
nutrient deficiency before it has significantly affected the crop. Both soil tests and and Plant Tissue
Tests are used in agriculture to fine-tune nutrient management to the crops needs.

Haber
Sometimes called the most important technological advance of this century, the Haber-
Bosch process allows the economical mass synthesis of ammonia (NH3) from nitrogen and hydrogen. It
was developed immediately prior to World War I by Fritz Haber and Carl Bosch, German
chemists. Haber won the Nobel Prize for Chemistry in 1918 for his discoveries, while Bosch shared a
Nobel Prize with Friedrich Bergius in 1931 for his work on high-pressure chemical reactions. At first a
German national secret, the chemistry and techniques behind the effective synthesis of ammonia spread
to the rest of the world in the 20s and 30s.

Ammonia is important because it is the primary ingredient in artificial fertilizers, without which modern-day
agricultural yields would be impossible. Sometimes called the "Haber Ammonia process," the Haber-
Bosch process was the first industrial chemical process to make use of extremely high pressures (200 to
400 atmospheres). In addition to high pressures, high temperatures (750 to 1200 degrees Fahrenheit or
400 to 650 degrees Celsius) are used. The efficiency of the reaction is a function of pressure and
temperature - greater yields are produced at higher pressures and lower temperatures.

Haber process
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The Haber process, also called the Haber–Bosch process, is the nitrogen fixation reaction of nitrogen

gas and hydrogen gas, over an enriched iron or ruthenium catalyst, which is used to industrially
produce ammonia.[1][2][3][4]

Despite the fact that 78.1% of the air we breathe is nitrogen, the gas is relatively unreactive because nitrogen
molecules are held together by strong triple bonds. It was not until the early 20th century that this method was
developed to harness the atmospheric abundance of nitrogen to create ammonia, which can then
be oxidized to make the nitrates and nitrites essential for the production of nitratefertilizer and explosives.

The Haber process is important because previous to its discovery, ammonia had been difficult to produce on an
industrial scale, and fertilizer generated from ammonia today is responsible for sustaining one-third of the
Earth's population.[5] It is estimated that half of the protein within human beings globally is made of nitrogen that
was originally fixed by this process, the remainder was produced bynitrogen fixing bacteria.[6]
 Contents

1 History

2 The process

o 2.1 Synthesis gas preparation

o 2.2 Ammonia synthesis –

Haber process

3 Reaction rate and equilibrium

4 Catalysts

5 Economic and environmental aspects

6 See also

7 References

8 External links

[edit]History

Fritz Haber, 1918

Early in the twentieth century several chemists tried and failed to produce ammonia from atmospheric nitrogen.
The enormous technical problems associated with the process were first solved by German chemist Fritz
Haber (with the invaluable help of Robert Le Rossignol, who developed and built the necessary high-pressure
devices). They first demonstrated their success in the summer of 1909, producing ammonia from air drop by
drop, at the rate of about a cup every two hours. The process was purchased by the German chemical
company BASF, which assigned Carl Bosch the difficult task of scaling up Haber's tabletop machine to
industrial-level production.[2]Haber and Bosch were later awarded Nobel prizes, in 1918 and 1931 respectively,
for their work in overcoming the chemical and engineering problems posed by the use of large-scale,
continuous-flow, high-pressure technology. Ammonia was first manufactured using the Haber process on an
industrial scale in 1913 in BASF's Oppau plant in Germany. During World War I, production was shifted from
fertilizer to explosives, particularly through the conversion of ammonia into a synthetic form of Chile saltpeter,
which could then be changed into other substances for the production of gunpowder and high explosives (the
Allies had access to large amounts of saltpeter from naturalnitrate deposits in Chile that belonged almost totally
to British industries; Germany had to produce its own). It has been suggested that without this process,
Germany would not have fought in the war,[7] or would have had to surrender years earlier.

[edit]The process

Flow diagram for the Haber Bosch process

By far the major source of the hydrogen required for the Haber-Bosch process is methane from natural gas,
obtained through a heterogeneous catalytic process, which requires far less external energy than the process
used initially by Bosch at BASF, the electrolysis of water. Far less commonly, in some countries, coal is used
as source of hydrogen through a process called coal gasification. However, the source of the hydrogen makes
no difference to the Haber-Bosch process, which is only concerned with synthesizing ammonia from nitrogen
and hydrogen.

[edit]Synthesis gas preparation

Main article:  Hydrogen production

First, the methane is cleaned, mainly to remove sulfur oxide and hydrogen sulfide impurities that would poison
the catalysts.

The clean methane is then reacted with steam over a catalyst of nickel oxide. This is called steam reforming:

CH4 + H2O → CO + 3 H2

Secondary reforming then takes place with the addition of air to convert the methane that did not react
during steam reforming.

2 CH4 + O2 → 2 CO + 4 H2

CH4 + 2 O2 → CO2 + 2 H2O

Then the water gas shift reaction yields more hydrogen from CO and steam.

CO + H2O → CO2 + H2
 The gas mixture is now passed into a methanator[8] which converts most of the
remaining CO into methane for recycling:

CO + 3 H2 → CH4 + H2O

This last step is necessary as carbon monoxide poisons the catalyst. (Note, this
reaction is the reverse of steam reforming). The overall reaction so far turns
methane and steam into carbon dioxide, steam, and hydrogen.

[edit]Ammonia synthesis – Haber process

The final stage, which is the actual Haber process, is the synthesis of ammonia
using an iron catalyst promoted with K2O, CaO and Al2O3:

N2 (g) + 3 H2 (g) ⇌ 2 NH3 (g)   (ΔH = −92.22 kJ·mol−1)

This is done at 15–25 MPa (150–250 bar) and between 300 and 550 °C,

passing the gases over four beds of catalyst, with cooling between each
pass to maintain a reasonable equilibrium constant. On each pass only
about 15% conversion occurs, but any unreacted gases are recycled, so that
eventually an overall conversion of 98% can be achieved.

The steam reforming, shift conversion, carbon dioxide removal, and

methanation steps each operate at absolute pressures of about 2.5–3.5 MPa
(25–35 bar), and the ammonia synthesis loop operates at absolute pressures
ranging from 6–18 MPa (60–180 bar), depending upon which proprietary
design is used.

There are many engineering and construction companies that offer

proprietary designs for ammonia synthesis plants. Haldor Topsoe of
Denmark, Lurgi AG of Germany, Uhde of Germany,Saipem/Snamprogetti of
Italy and Kellogg, Brown and Root of the United States are among the most
experienced companies in that field.[citation needed]

[edit]Reaction rate and equilibrium

There are two opposing considerations in this synthesis: the position of the
equilibrium and the rate of reaction. At room temperature, the reaction is
slow and the obvious solution is to raise the temperature. This may increase
the rate of the reaction but, since the reaction is exothermic, it also has the
effect, according to Le Chatelier's principle, of favouring the reverse reaction
and thus reducing the amount of product, given by:
 Variation in Keq for the Equilibrium
N2 (g) + 3H2 (g)   2NH3 (g)
as a Function of Temperature[9]

Temperature (°C) Keq

300 4.34 x 10−3

As the temperature increases, the equilibrium is shifted and hence, the
amount of product drops dramatically according to the Van't Hoff 400 1.64 x 10−4
equation. Thus one might suppose that a low temperature is to be used
450 4.51 x 10−5
and some other means to increase rate. However, the catalyst itself
requires a temperature of at least 400 °C to be efficient. 500 1.45 x 10−5

Pressure is the obvious choice to favour the forward reaction because 550 5.38 x 10−6
there are 4 moles of reactant for every 2 moles of product
(see entropy), and the pressure used (around 200 atm) alters the 600 2.25 x 10−6

equilibrium concentrations to give a profitable yield.

Economically, though, pressure is an expensive commodity. Pipes and

reaction vessels need to be strengthened, valves more rigorous, and
there are safety considerations of working at 200 atm. In addition,
running pumps and compressors takes considerable energy. Thus the
compromise used gives a single pass yield of around 15%.

Another way to increase the yield of the reaction would be to remove

the product (i.e. ammonia gas) from the system. In practice, gaseous
ammonia is not removed from the reactor itself, since the temperature
is too high; but it is removed from the equilibrium mixture of gases
leaving the reaction vessel. The hot gases are cooled enough, whilst
maintaining a high pressure, for the ammonia to condense and be
removed as liquid. Unreacted hydrogen and nitrogen gases are then
returned to the reaction vessel to undergo further reaction.

[edit]Catalysts

The catalyst has no effect on the position of chemical equilibrium;

rather, it provides an alternative pathway with lower activation
energy and hence increases the reaction rate, while remaining
chemically unchanged at the end of the reaction. The first Haber–
Bosch reaction chambers used osmium and ruthenium as catalysts.
However, under Bosch's direction in 1909, the BASF researcherAlwin
Mittasch discovered a much less expensive iron-based catalyst that is
still used today. Part of the industrial production now takes place with a
ruthenium rather than an iron catalyst (the KAAP process), because
this more active catalyst allows reduced operating pressures.

In industrial practice, the iron catalyst is prepared by exposing a mass

of magnetite, an iron oxide, to the hot hydrogen feedstock. This
reduces some of the magnetite to metallic iron, removing oxygenin the
process. However, the catalyst maintains most of its bulk volume
during the reduction, and so the result is a highly porous material
whose large surface area aids its effectiveness as a catalyst. Other
minor components of the catalyst include calcium and aluminium
oxides, which support the porous iron catalyst and help it maintain its
surface area over time, and potassium, which increases
the electron density of the catalyst and so improves its activity.

The reaction mechanism, involving the heterogeneous catalyst, is

believed to be as follows:

1. N2 (g) → N2 (adsorbed)

2. N2 (adsorbed) → 2 N (adsorbed)

3. H2(g) → H2 (adsorbed)

4. H2 (adsorbed) → 2 H (adsorbed)

5. N (adsorbed) + 3 H(adsorbed)→ NH3 (adsorbed)

6. NH3 (adsorbed) → NH3 (g)

Reaction 5 occurs in three steps, forming NH, NH2, and then NH3.
Experimental evidence points to reaction 2 as being the slow, rate-
determining step.

A major contributor to the elucidation of this mechanism is Gerhard

Ertl.[10][11][12][13]

[edit]Economic and environmental aspects

The Haber process now produces 100 million tons of

nitrogen fertilizer per year, mostly in the form of
anhydrous ammonia, ammonium nitrate, and urea. 3–5% of world
natural gas production is consumed in the Haber process (~1–2% of
the world's annual energy supply).[1][14][15][16] That fertilizer is responsible
for sustaining one-third of the Earth's population, as well as various
deleterious environmental consequences.[2][5] Hydrogen
production using electrolysis of water powered by renewable energy is
not yet competitive cost-wise with hydrogen from fossil fuels, such as
natural gas, and so has been responsible for only 4% of current
hydrogen production (almost all as a byproduct of the chloralkali
process). Notably, the rise of the Haber industrial process led to the
"Nitrate Crisis" in Chile when the natural nitrate mines were no longer
profitable and were closed, leaving a large unemployed Chilean
population behind.