Introduction to various machines in production floor:

MACHINE:

 Single Needle Lockstitch Machine: Single Needle Lockstitch

Machine is used to create lock stitch to hold two pieces of fabric
together.
Parts of SNLS are:
• Spool Holder
• Tension guides
• Take- up lever
• Tension Disc
• Needle clamp
• Throat plate.

Function:
• PEDAL: Sewing machines are powered by a small electric motor. The
speed of the motor is controlled by a foot pedal.
• PRESSER FOOT: The presser foot holds the fabric onto a metal plate
below and has a hole that the needle passes through as the fabric is sewn.
The presser foot can be raised and lowered using a simple lever.
• TENSION DISC: Tension discs inside the assembly control how much slack
the thread has during sewing. Tension adjustment is important and is
accomplished through dials or selectors on the body of the machine.

Overlock Machine
 Double Needle Lockstitch Machine
 Button- Hole machine
 Button Attaching Machine
 Bartack Machine

Factors to be considered while giving training:

Identifying all the machine parts
Bobbin threading
Bobbin winding
Checking bobbin thread tension
Machine threading
Needle attaching
Presser foot attaching

PAPER EXERCISE:

Purpose:
• Train operators for Machine handling
• Train operators for Machine control
 • Run machine so as to stitch different shapes

How the train is to be given?

Papers with different shapes drawn on it are given to the operator

according to the complexity:
• Straight line: For smooth running of the machine.
• Break line: For machine control so as to stop at certain points
• Semi-circle: For parts which needs turning like armhole etc.
• Ups and down (Curves): For parts which has curves.
• Diamond shape: For parts where needle has to be lowered and
parts has to be turned eg: Pockets
• Full circle: For full movement of parts 360 degree.

STITCHES:
SEAM:

Seam that are used in the industry are:

• Plain Seam

• Piped Seam
1. Measure the seam that is to be decorated and add 4 inches,
using a measuring tape. Cut the piping cord to this length.
2. Wrap the ends of the cord with masking tape to keep it from
unraveling during the project, and set aside.
3. Spread the fabric used for the piping cover on a flat surface, and
fold the fabric diagonally so the long, straight edge is parallel to
the selvage edge. The selvage edge is the edge where the fabric
was originally attached to the loom, and is usually printed with
manufacturing information
4. Mark strips that are twice as wide as the cord, plus 1 inch, using
a chalk and ruler and the diagonal edge as a guide. The extra
inch allows for a 1/2-inch seam allowance on each side of the
cord. Cut out the strips.
5. Sew the strips together, matching opposite-angled ends, until the
combined strip is long enough to cover the length of cord.
6. Spread the strip on a flat surface wrong-side-up, and place the
cord in the middle. Fold the strip over until the two cut sides are
even, and pin the cord as far into the fold as possible.
7. Sew the two sides of the strip together as close to the cord as
possible, with the zipper foot on the sewing machine. Leave the
last inch or so of each end unsewn.
8. Spread one layer of the material the piping will be attached to on
a flat surface, right-side-up. Run the covered cord around the
edge, with the seam allowance facing away from the center of
the fabric. Pin in place.
9. Cut notches in the seam allowance at curves and corners until
the piping and the seam allowance both lie flat.
10. Sew the piping in place, using the zipper foot on the
sewing machine.
11. Uncover the very ends of the cording, pushing back the fabric
covering. Trim the ends of the cording so the raw edges meet

exactly. Do not cut the fabric. When the box panel is sewn
onto the top panel, the excess fabric ends on the piping can be
tucked neatly into the seam and sewn in place

• French Seam:

1. First, place the edges of the fabric to be sewn, wrong sides

together, along the seam. If your fabric is slippery, you'll need
to pin carefully.
 2. Sew up the seam 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric. If your
fabric ravels easily, use a zig-zag stitch. The zig-zag should fit
completely into the 1/4-inch area.

3. Press the seams. Fold the material along the seam and press
it the other way, right sides of the fabric together this time.

4. Sew the seam again, this time 3/8 inch from the edge. You will
then have your first seam sewn inside your other seam.

5. Carefully press the seams to one side.

• Bias Seam:

Instructions for Bias Tape Casings

1. Measure your garment to determine the length of the casing.

2. Cut the bias tape 1/2 inch longer than this measurement, to
create 1/4-inch seam allowances on each end of the casing. Fold
one of the 1/4-inch seam allowances to the inside of the casing
(the side with the long folded edges) and iron in place.
3. Pin the bias tape to the garment, centering the bias tape over
the location where you want the casing, and overlapping the
folded 1/4-inch edge over the unfolded edge.
4. Stitch in place using a straight stitch 1/8 inch or less from the
long edges of the casing. Do not stitch the short ends.
5. Cut the elastic to the desired length, plus 1/2 inch for
overlapping and securing the elastic into a loop.
6. Thread the elastic through the casing, being sure not to allow the
end of the elastic to slip into the casing. Once completed, both
ends should stick out of the casing. Overlap the elastic by 1/2
inch and stitch ends together to secure.
7. Fold the elastic completely into the casing and stitch the
overlapped short edge of the casing closed, using a straight
stitch.
Instructions for Bound Seams
1. Grade your sewn seam to reduce bulk by cutting off 1/4 inch of
one side of the seam allowance.
2. Unfold one of the long edge folds of your bias tape. Holding the
seam allowance together, pin the unfolded bias tape to the
seam, with the raw edge toward the raw edge of the seam
allowance and the outside of the seam tape against the seam
allowance fabric. Stitch along the crease line, through the single
thickness of the bias tape and both thicknesses of the seam
allowance.
3. Wrap the bias tape around the seam allowance and pin the
folded side of the bias tape to the other side of the seam
allowance.
4. Topstitch along the edge of the bias tape, securing it to the seam
allowance.

• Welt Seam
1. Place right side together and sew 1.5cm (5/8”) in from the edge (this is the
standard seam width, adjust if needed).
2. Trim one side of the seam to 5mm (2/8”).
3. Neaten the edge of the un-trimmed side using preferred method.
4. Press seam to one side so the longer edge is uppermost.
5. On outside sew 1cm (1/4”) from the first row of stitching.
6. Press for a neat finish.