Budget Europe Travel Service’s

EUROPEAN PLANNING & RAIL GUIDE

� call BETS, the

Rail is our specialty!
If you have rail questions, ass
a i l p
r R
Rail Experts! Fo tions,
4 omo r
800-441-9413 Pr o O u
800-441-2387 Go T bsite
www.budgeteuropetravel.com We

“EUROPE
DREAMING” BETS
Express

B udget Inside: Planning Your Trip p. 3

Using European Trains p. 5
E urope
Country Profiles p. 10
T ravel Rail Reservation Tips p. 33
S ervice Packing & Travel Tips p. 35
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
 The BETS Point of View
Thank you for your interest in Budget Europe Travel Service (BETS) and
our European Planning & Rail Guide! This Guide is a useful travel tool
designed to assist you in making the most of your European adventure,
helping you to make the tough decisions about where to go, what to see and
how to get around.
4 BETSʼ #1 Goal • BETS was established
in 1978 to serve the needs of the indepen-
dent, self-reliant traveler. Because weʼre
enthusiastic about European travel, our
goal is to introduce you to the wonders of
Europe and provide the latest in practical,
cost-saving travel insights. Since 1978
we have assisted countless thousands of
our valued clients prepare for their trips;
plan itineraries; cut costs; avoid com-
mon travel problems; get off the beaten
track; purchase railpasses, travel luggage,
moneybelts and other travel accessories
— in short, helping each traveler achieve
a dream vacation. Many of our past clients
say that they couldnʼt have planned a trip
to Europe, let alone embarked on one,
without our European Planning & Rail
Guide. Though we believe that everyone
will immensely enjoy travel in Europe, we
are rewarded in knowing that we at BETS
made a difference! Let us show you how
easy it can be to explore Europe on your
own!
4 BETSʼ Travel Experience and Travel
Research • For ten years we organized
and led our Bike Europe Tours showing
thousands of bicyclists the “backroads”
and “nooks and crannies” of Europe.
And from that time onwards, we have
actively worked at increasing our travel
knowledge through the best way we know
— travel itself ! Even though we are now
“travel veterans,” we continue to take
annual research trips to Europe, travel-
ing with railpasses and continuing to
learn from each trip. The tips we provide
are based on our own current and actual
travel experiences! Through BETS and
the European Planning & Rail Guide, we
have the opportunity to share all that we
learn with our clients.
If you like what you read, please let us know by bringing your friends
and your business our way! We look forward to bringing you the best!
Bon Voyage!
More Info on Our Website
For current prices, rail schedules, hotel
reservations, special rail deals and rail
updates, please go to our website at
www.budgeteuropetravel.com.
2 Budget Europe Travel Service
B udget
E urope
T ravel
S ervice
Published by Budget Europe Travel Service,
4 BETSʼ Travel Philosophy • Travel is one PO Box 130812, Ann Arbor, MI 48113-0812.
of the best teachers we know! Besides Copyright © 2010. All rights reserved. Send
the inevitable learning, broadening and change of address and readerʼs comments to
growth which is inherent in any travel BETS, PO Box 130812, Ann Arbor, MI 48113.
experience, you will also have fun. We Telephone: 734-668-0529; Fax: 734-665-5986.
highly encourage you to see Europe on
your own terms; the European tourist
infrastructure provided to travelers of all Table of Contents
budgets is tremendous. There is no need
to lock yourself into a whirlwind guided 3 Introduction to the European
tour — a “16 countries in 16 days” rigor-
ous program — instead design your own
Rail Network
personalized tour, at your own pace! 3-9 Planning Your Trip
• Optimizing Your Itinerary
4 BETSʼ Independence • We have no
corporate affiliation with any other travel • Railpasses • Point-to-Point Tickets
firm, nor do we accept outside advertis- • The Nuts & Bolts of European Trains
ing — therefore, our perspective is not • Scenic Routes • Luggage Concerns
clouded by a built-in loyalty to any one • Train Reservations • Weather
advertiser or brand name! You can count
on us to tell you the real story as it appears 7 & 9 Suggested Itineraries
to us without any hidden strings attached; 9 Rail Map of Europe
for in the final analysis, our loyalty is to
our clients alone. It is your invaluable 10-32 Country Sketches
input through your calls, faxes, letters and, • Germany - 10 • Switzerland - 12
finally, your purchases that determines our • Austria - 14 • Hungary - 14
future growth and direction. • Italy - 15 • Greece - 17
• Denmark - 19 • Norway - 20
4 BETSʼ Customer Service Policy • Service
is part of our name because we believe our • Sweden - 21 • Finland - 21
• Netherlands - 21 • Belgium - 23
customers always come first! We process
all orders within 24 hours of receipt! • Luxembourg - 23 • France - 24
4 BETSʼ Rail Expertise • As European rail • Spain - 26 • Portugal - 28
travel is our ONLY focus, and our BETS • Great Britain - 28 • Ireland - 31
team has been booking rail for eons and • Czech Republic - 32 • Poland - 32
traveling by rail in Europe for decades, we
pride ourselves as being among the best (if 33 About Rail Reservations
not the best) at providing answers to rail 34 Timetables on the Web
questions. In fact, weʼre so confident in 35 Travel & Packing Tips
our knowledge that we invite you to check
us out — challenge us! And it is our pledge 37 Tips on US Customs
to always recommend the best lowest- 37 Airport Rail Links
costing railpass or ticket for your itinerary!
38 Temperature Chart
38 Scenic Trains
Rail is our Specialty ! Come
Have any European rail or itinerary ‘n’ ride
questions? Call BETS to get the answer! w ith us
800-441-9413 or 800-441-2387
!
Mon-Fri 9am-5pm (Eastern)
BETS — Putting People on the Right Track Since 1978!
 The Thrill of Europe by Rail
E
urope is an adventure — dreamy
castles, medieval-looking cities, out-
door cafés lining cobblestone streets,
elegant shops, spectacular mountain vistas,
sandy beaches strung along shimmering seas
— it has it all ! And there is no better way to
see it than by train. But no matter how you
choose to experience Europe, this Guide will
help you plan an unforgettable vacation.
The first part of the Guide gives a brief
description of the European rail system in-
cluding several suggested itineraries designed
to make the best use of your time. The second
part gives a capsule look at each Western
European country from the viewpoint
of a tourist. There are numerous
thumbnail sketches of all the main
tourist sights, but the emphasis has
been to call attention to the many
unique and off-the-beaten-track places
that dot the European landscape.
These places are often overlooked
when planning a trip; yet from years
of traveling ourselves and by talking
to many others, we have found that
it is the untouristed small village, the
solitude of a high mountain panorama
or the unknown path on a seaside cliff that
turns “just a vacation” into a once-in-a-life-
time memory. All the places described can be
reached by train — most quite easily; for the
few that are more difficult, we have included
a brief description of how to get there.
Tips on packing, changing money, electri-
cal concerns and more — all of which will
prove helpful to anyone planning a visit
to Europe — are located at the end of this
Guide starting on page 35.
BE SMART: CHOOSE TRAINS OVER CARS
Although Americans have a natural in-
clination to want to drive when traveling,
in large part due to the abysmal state of
American trains, most Americans vacation-
ing in Europe will make a wise choice by
taking advantage of the superb European
train system. One of the greatest benefits of
rail travel is that you can relax in worry-free
comfort while being whisked from the heart
of one city to another. While riding a train,
you can read about your next destination,
enjoy a meal, write a postcard, tweet your
trip, or simply let your eyes feast on the
passing scenery. You also maximize time by
riding the high-speed trains between cities,
spending time sightseeing rather than being
stuck for long hours in a car. (For example,
trains take less than three hours to cover the
over 400 miles between Paris and Avignon
in southern France, which would take at
least double that by car!) Whatʼs probably
most rewarding is the chance to meet other
folks: tourists from around the world, with
Rail Questions ? Just Call BETS: 800-441-9413 or 800-441-2387 !
The Amazing European Rail Network
There are more than 150,000 miles of
passenger tracks in Europe, stretching from
the Arctic Circle in Scandinavia to the
Mediterranean beaches of Spain; and from
the Atlantic Coast in the west to the Greek
peninsula in the east. And this is no skeleton
network — nearly every nook and cranny
is accessible by train. With a growing high-
speed network that currently totals more than
3,000 miles of track and trains operating
at speeds of up to 220 mph, between many
cities the train is faster than the plane. Fur-
thermore, the trains are modern, comfortable,
frequent, punctual, fast and easy to use. Typi-
cally, on main lines between principal cities,
there are at least hourly trains, plus overnight
trains run between many major cities.
Planning a European Rail Trip
One of the biggest misconceptions is that
Europe is a small place and that it will be
whom you can swap experiences, and, of
course, Europeans, most of whom go by
train when traveling. By comparison, travel
by car is isolated and often fatiguing: you
must negotiate thick road traffic; the driv-
ing itself is monotonous and tiring (Europe
isnʼt as small as most believe; i.e. itʼs over
900 miles from Paris to Rome); and it is
surprisingly easy to get lost even with GPS
navigation. Then after a long dayʼs drive, it
can be a terrifying horror of congestion to
arrive in an unfamiliar often gridlocked city
like Paris or Rome, where many city streets
are nothing more than narrow alleys, wide
swaths of city centers have been made off-
limits to motorists, and, most frustrating of
all, parking is nearly impossible to find, and
even few city-center hotels offer it (and then
at a pretty penny, up to $30 a day). There is
also a problem of theft from parked cars in
big cities, so you can leave nothing of value
in them. Plus there is the huge problem of
dealing with locals who are legendary for
quick to get to any place on the continent
in a few short hours. But Europe is actu-
ally about half the size of the US, and since
most people now go to Europe for about two
weeks, you need to make choices and limit
yourself geographically. Start off by read-
ing the country sketches that make up the
bulk of this Guide. Once you have made a
preliminary list of countries or places that
might interest you, locate them on a map of
Europe (see our rail map on page 9 showing
the main rail connections and the approxi-
mate time of travel between main cities).
Bearing in mind that you will need two or
three nights for large tourist cities
like Paris, London or Rome, and a
full day at least for smaller cities like
Salzburg, Siena or Brugge, see if you
can comfortably rail between your
desired stopovers in your allotted
vacation time. If not, you may have
to simplify your itinerary leaving
some places to a future trip.
To find the best rail route for your
itinerary, draw the simplest possible
loop between the places you wish
to visit; this allows you to order
your stops without any time-consuming
backtracking. If your circle is large covering
several countries, you can save a travel day
by flying into one city and out of another.
For example, if wishing to visit Paris, Nice,
the Cinque Terre, Florence and Rome, by
flying into Paris and home from Rome, you
save the long return trip to Paris giving you
an extra day of sightseeing in Rome.
Between major cities, there are overnight
trains that leave in the evening and arrive the
their aggressive driving habits, zooming
around these small medieval streets at
breakneck speeds as if they were on a For-
mula One course. Indeed, accident statistics
show that driving in many parts of Europe
is much more dangerous than in the US.
Of course, some places are inaccessible
by rail, and a car is the only practical al-
ternative. For these occasions, we believe
the best idea is to train to the nearest large
city and rent a car for a day or two — you
minimize the drudgery of long drives, but
still benefit from the flexibility of a car for
exploring the local area.
Once you hop aboard a European train,
youʼll probably, like us, become hooked
on them — we canʼt imagine a better way
to travel and heartily recommend that you
skip the car and explore Europe by rail.
Call BETS — the European experts
who have hiked, biked, bused, boated
and railed their way around Europe !
Budget Europe Travel Service 3
 First Class Is Worth the Money !
On the newer airline-style open-seated
trains, first class has two seats on one side
of the aisle and one on the other; second
class has two seats on each side of the
aisle. Of course, like first class on a plane,
first-class seats are wider, more comfort-
able and have increased legroom. And
in first class, couples often can get two
seats that face each other across a small
table for two with each person having a
window and an aisle seat. The practical
difference, however, is that, without a
seat reservation, it is usually much easier
to hop on a train at the last moment and
still find a seat in first class, especially
in the early morning and late afternoon
when commuters often fill second class to
standing room only. And on trains that re-
quire reservations, you have a much bet-
ter chance of getting one in first class at
peak times. The upshot is that if you want
a roomier, more comfortable (and prefer-
able window) seat in a less-crowded car,
we highly recommend first class.
next morning. These make sense if you need
to save time; for example, after visiting Paris
you can travel overnight to Venice, Florence
or Rome while you sleep.
If possible, use a base city where you can
explore the surrounding area via short day
trips; the great plus here is that you can
travel around luggage free, and planning
is easier as you have fewer hotels to book.
For example, from Munich you can easily
visit Salzburg, Neuschwanstein Castle or
Berchtesgaden, returning to your Munich
hotel each night.
How To Rail
Long ago when the railpass first arrived on
the scene, there was only one railpass cover-
ing most of Europe; no thought required, buy
the pass and fly off to Europe. Today, there
are dozens of different types of railpasses
and rail tickets available, and the one or
combination that suits you best often takes
careful planning on your part.
Railpass Bonuses
Railpasses give several significant bo-
nuses, some of which are described later
under the country sketches. A few of the
most popular are free passage on selected
Rhine and Mosel riverboats and a 20% dis-
count on the Romantic and Castle road
buses, all slicing thru castle-studded Ger-
many (with passes valid in Germany); free
cruises on many picturesque Swiss lakes
(with passes valid in Switzerland); free
deck passage on several ferries, including
ones between Italy and Greece (with passes
valid in both Italy and Greece); and 50%
off ferries between Sweden and Finland
(with passes valid in Sweden or Finland).
4 Budget Europe Travel Service
Buy Your Railpass From BETS!
For details on Eurailpasses and the
plethora of regional and single coun-
try passes, please visit our website
or if you have any questions, please
call us.
www.budgeteuropetravel.com
1-800-441-9413 or 1-800-441-2387
Railpasses
The national railroads of Europe offer a
multitude of railpasses that provide unlimited
rail travel within one country; within several
countries; or throughout many countries. For
extensive rail travel, railpasses are an excellent
bargain over point-to-point rail tickets; but
even for travelers planning only a few rides,
passes can cost less than a single point-to-point
ticket (for example, the walk-up round-trip rail
ticket between Paris and Nice costs consider-
ably more than either a respective first-class or
second-class France Saverpass).
Most importantly, railpasses are valid on
Europeʼs high-speed trains, though on most
you must make a seat reservation at an ad-
ditional cost and occasionally pay extra for
an obligatory meal served to first-class pas-
sengers on some deluxe trains. (On Eurostar
trains to/from London, railpass holders get
a special passholder fare; however, it is the
cheapest one-way fare possible.) Note: Seat
reservations can be made 60-90 days before
your travel date; and although they can be
made in Europe at a slightly cheaper price,
they should be made as early as possible as
many peak-time trains limit the number of
seats available to railpass holders, especially
in France.
A great benefit of railpasses is the ease
of use and flexibility. No need to take time
away from sightseeing to visit a train station
to stand in long ticket lines where the agent
behind the window may not speak a word of
English. You can arrive at the last minute and
simply hop aboard most trains; and in first
class, with the exception of peak times, usu-
ally have no problem finding a vacant seat.
This makes it easy to change plans on the
spur of the moment; if, on the day you have
planned to take the train up Mount Jungfrau,
you look out your hotel window to find the
whole Interlaken area shrouded in fog, you
can change your plans easily and take a train
to Luzern or Bern to explore their historic
old towns instead.
And even when a railpass does not save
you money over point-to-point rail tickets,
a pass offers you an intangible benefit — if
for some reason you must change your rail
plans, you can do so without penalty in
contrast with rail tickets which are often
nonrefundable and nonexchangeable. And,
remember, by paying for your rail travel
before leaving home, you protect yourself
against any drop in the dollar; and with all
tickets in hand, you just need to arrive at
the station shortly before departure time and
board your train.
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
Tip! As railpasses often go up in
price every January 1 (about
$20-150), you can beat the price increase
by ordering your pass before the end of the
year at the old price as long as you plan to
start using it within six months of issuance.
Call BETS for Details
Point-to-Point Tickets
These make sense when you plan to take
only one or two short trips or one long trip.
Also a factor is the country in which you are
traveling. In high-priced-ticket countries like
Germany, Switzerland, Britain or France, a
railpass is often the best deal even if not doing
much railing; but in Italy, Greece or Spain,
where point-to-point fares are somewhat
cheaper, individual rail tickets are often the
cheaper option. For example, many people
dream of spending a week or so in Tuscany
enjoying the areaʼs many historic sights. By
staying in Florence, an excellent base city
because of its ambience and superb rail con-
nections, it is easy to visit Siena, Pisa, Prato,
Pistoia, Lucca, the Cinque Terre, Bologna,
Perugia, Arezzo, Cortona or Assisi all as
short day trips; and in this case, as all travel
is on inexpensive local trains, point-to-point
tickets will be the best deal. For up-to-date
rail schedules or current prices of rail tickets
in US dollars, go to www.budgeteuropetravel.
com. Remember that most rail tickets are for
Railpass Discounts
Most railpasses offer group, youth or
senior price reductions.
Saverpasses • Families or groups of
two or more people always traveling
together typically save about 15%. (Ger-
many calls this a “twinpass” and limits it
to just two people.)
Youthpasses • People under 26 get
about a 33% discount. (Note: Student
passes do not exist; any young person
qualifies.)
Senior Passes • Unfortunately, these
exist only for France and Great Britain,
but all is not lost — the saverpass dis-
count available with most passes would
be equal to a senior discount if it were
available.
Children • For most passes, children
ages 4-11 pay half price, and kids under
4 are free. On most saverpasses, children
get the saverpass discount and a child
discount, paying only half the adult
saverpass price.
Families • Two countries, Switzerland
and Great Britain, have family discounts.
In Switzerland, all children under 16
travel free with their parents (unfortu-
nately, not grandparents). In Britain,
the rule is slightly different for children
under 16: one child travels free per adult
or senior (not limited to parents only)
All-Brit or England railpass.
 • Austria & Germany
Plane Versus Train • Austria & Hungary
Unless you need to get from A to B as fast as possible, we highly recommend that you • Austria & Switzerland
travel Europe by rail. You will find this to be an enjoyable and rewarding experience. • Benelux*
The big advantage of trains is the simplicity; you travel from city center to city center
— no transferring to the airport, arriving at least an hour early for check in, enduring the • Benelux* & France
cramped conditions of economy class, waiting for your luggage after arrival and then get- • Benelux* & Germany
ting from the airport into the city center. • Croatia/Slovenia & Hungary
And for train journeys of up to three or four hours, the train will often be quicker than • Czech Republic & Germany
any flight. For example, the one hour flight from London to Paris will take at least four • Denmark & Germany
hours in total transit time when you count the time getting to the airport, checking in and • Denmark & Sweden
then getting back from the airport; and that is if your plane departs on time. Alternatively, • Finland & Sweden
you can jump on the train in the heart of London and hop off in the center of Paris, a little
over two hours later. • France & Germany
Also trains are a joy to ride. Besides a comfortable seat, you will get a panoramic view • France & Italy
of the countryside as it glides past you, unlike on the plane where often all you can see, if • France & Spain
you can peer out the window at all, is the planeʼs wing or the clouds below. • France & Switzerland
When doing a long trip, it is best to break it up into shorter segments. Although this • Germany & Poland
will take much longer than flying, it is the key to a fantastic European vacation. If wish- • Germany & Switzerland
ing to get from Munich to Rome, you could first rail to Innsbruck in Austria, visiting its
• Greece & Italy
charming old town; then train up and over the Brenner Pass, one of Europeʼs most scenic
rail routes thru the Tyrolean Alps, to incomparable Venice; then rail to historic Florence • Great Britain & Ireland
still dominated by the imagination of Michelangelo and many other Renaissance artists; • Hungary & Romania
and, finally, train on to Rome. By flying you would get to Rome fast, but in the cocoon • Italy & Spain
of the plane you would be missing out on the experience of what Europe is truly about: • Norway & Sweden
small mountain villages, the rural pastoral countryside, ancient fishing hamlets clinging to • Portugal & Spain
a rocky seaside coast, small cities with historic old towns dating back hundreds of years
*Benelux = Belgium, Holland & Luxembourg
— in essence, you would be missing out on the real Europe.
Single-Country Passes
one date and time only; and if you miss your frame. A typical pass gives 5 to 10 rail days These are all flexipasses.
train for any reason, you probably will need to to be used within a 1- or 2-month period; its • Austria • Croatia
buy a completely new ticket, losing all of the days donʼt need to be used consecutively; • Czech Republic • Denmark
money (or a substantial portion) you paid for and each rail day gives you unlimited travel
your original ticket — if a railpass costs just • Finland • France
to be used as you like, including stopovers
slightly more, consider getting the railpass or round-trip journeys, as long as you reach • Germany • Great Britain*
for the flexibility in case you miss a train or your final destination prior to midnight. • Greece • Hungary
have to change plans. • Ireland • Italy
Multi-Country Passes • Norway • Poland
If traveling in three or more countries, the • Portugal • Romania
Types of Railpasses best railpass will be one of these railpasses. • Slovenia • Spain
Railpasses come in two formats: the • Eurail Global Pass, which comes as • Sweden • Switzerland**
consecutive-day pass, which allows rail both a consecutive-day pass or a flexipass *Great Britain has several passes: All-Brit (valid
travel on any or all days of the duration of and is valid in 21 countries. in England, Scotland and Wales), England, Scot-
the pass; or the more common flexipass, • Eurail Select Pass, a customizable land and London Plus (valid in the area around
which provides a number of individual travel flexipass that allows you to select 3, 4 or 5 London). The All-Brit and England passes are
days to be used anytime within a longer time bordering countries from a 24-country list also available in consecutive-day versions.
and to also select the number of rail days you **Switzerland also has a consecutive-day pass.
need for your itinerary.
Study Abroad Programs
• Scandinavia Flexipass, valid in Norway, The Nuts and Bolts
Flexipasses, usually valid over a two- Sweden, Denmark and Finland.
month period, often are the ideal pass
for students on study abroad programs, • European East Flexipass, valid in the Railpasses
who typically attend classes Monday thru Czech Republic, Slovakia, Poland, Hungary If you have purchased a railpass, you must
Thursday but have three-day weekends and Austria. “activate” your pass at any rail station be-
for exploring neighboring areas. Besides • Balkans Flexipass, valid in Turkey, fore getting on your first train. At this time,
being able to use the pass during the Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Macedonia, the railroad official will validate your pass,
program, it could also be used to travel Serbia and Montenegro. which are issued open dated, by filling in the
before or after the study abroad pro- beginning and ending dates on your pass.
gram. Many people ask if they can get a Other Multi-Country Passes This should take only a few minutes; how-
flexipass that lasts three or four months, These are all flexipasses and exist in the ever, in a large city like Paris, you may have
but, unfortunately, none exists, so you following combinations. to wait in a lengthy line, so allow plenty of
must spend some time planning how to • Austria & Croatia/Slovenia time. Itʼs best to write your beginning and
make the best use of your flexipass. • Austria & Czech Republic ending dates on a piece of paper to prevent
Also young travelers find the flexipass any problems, such as a rail official filling in
versions to be ideal for those who want to a wrong date — remember to write the day
break up their rail trip by lounging on a More Info About Any Railpass before the month as Europeans do. You must
Greek island, relaxing on a Riviera beach Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com for not fill in the beginning and ending dates
or partying on the Spanish island of Ibiza. details and current prices. on the pass yourself. You will be heavily
fined for traveling with an unvalidated pass,
To Order, Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 ! Budget Europe Travel Service 5

Scenic Routes
There are many scenic rail trips in
Europe; you should try to include in your
itinerary at least one of these. Many take
you thru spectacular mountain scenery,
along rugged seacoasts or thru pictur-
esque river valleys. A few of the more
scenic rides are the Bernina and Glacier
Expresses going thru the Swiss Alps;
the Bergen Express in Norway, which
takes you over mountains and along
fjords; the Kyle of Lochalsh Highland
train in Scotland; and the “Little Yellow
Train,” chugging thru the Pyrenees in
France along the Spanish border. And
not to be missed in Germany are the
Rhine River boat cruises between Co-
logne and Mainz, or in Switzerland the
William Tell steam paddlers on Lake
Luzern. The TGV trains in France are
another kind of thrill — ride the worldʼs
fastest trains, traveling at speeds of up to
220 mph.
All of these are free with Eurail except
the Glacier Express (free with Swiss
passes) and the Kyle of Lochalsh line
(free with All-Brit or Scotland passes).
These scenic rides and several others are
described in more detail in the country
sketches; and on page 38, there is a listing
of some of our favorites.
unless you are training in from a country
not covered by your railpass in which case
the conductor will validate your pass. After
your pass has been validated, just board your
train and show the conductor your pass when
asked. Flexipass holders, before boarding the
first train or ship each day, must also enter
the date of use in ink in the corresponding
calendar box on their flexipass. If you forget
to do this, it is like traveling without a ticket,
and you can be fined as much as 100 euros;
the reason for the fine is that on some rides
a conductor may never get to you, and you
would end up with a free travel day. On
trains requiring seat reservations, these must
also be made prior to boarding your train if
you have not made them with Budget Europe
before leaving home.
Point-to-Point Tickets
If you have purchased your rail ticket thru
Budget Europe, you do not have to do any-
thing in Europe except show up for your train
and find your seat. If buying tickets locally,
you do this at the rail station, either at a ticket
counter or from a ticket machine; sometimes
you can buy a ticket on the train, but usually
at a much higher price. For expensive trips,
buy your ticket as soon as possible as tickets
are often sold in tiers; and when the tickets
allotted to the cheapest tier are gone, you
must go up to the next price level. At the last
minute, you may be paying top dollar; and if
it is a peak-time train, it may be sold out. Be-
sides saving lots of precious sightseeing time,
this is the best reason to buy your tickets
6 Budget Europe Travel Service
before you go, even though ticket prices in
each tier may cost a few dollars more here.
Any tickets purchased in France and Italy
must be stamped in a time-clock-like valida-
tion machine prior to boarding your train;
if you neglect to do this, you can be fined.
Tickets bought in the US are exempt from
this rule.
Schedules
Before You Go • Each country has their
own online timetable, but the best timetable
that works for all of Europe is the online
timetable operated by the German National
Railways (DB); go to the home page at www.
budgeteuropetravel.com for a link to this site
and a brief guide of how to use it. This site
will give you schedules complete with all
pertinent information that you can print out
and take with you to Europe.
The most comprehensive printed schedule
is the Thomas Cook Timetable. Updated
each month, it contains detailed schedules
for all major rail and ferry services. The only
drawback is that it is fairly expensive; but
if doing a lot of railing especially on minor
lines, it is well worth the investment (avail-
able at www.thomascookpublishing.com).
People purchasing railpasses receive a 125-
page abbreviated Eurail Timetable giving
departure and arrival times between the main
cities of Europe. It is easy to use, denoting
where you need to change trains and when
reservations are required.
Once in Europe • At most stations in
Europe, pocket schedules for all trains serv-
ing that station and the surrounding area are
available — itʼs a good idea to pick up these
schedules whenever you arrive at a station.
Most stations also have schedules displayed
on airport-style electronic boards that show
departure/arrival times and platform numbers
of each train. Times are listed using a 24-hour
clock beginning at midnight; for example,
1am is 1:00, 1pm is 13:00, 2pm is 14:00 and
so on. Stations also have large poster time-
tables placed in key spots showing this same
schedule information. And at many stations,
information offices can make you a computer
printout of a complicated schedule.
Finding the Right Train
First locate your train on one of the sched-
ule boards to learn from which platform it
departs. Once on the platform, you will find
a confirmation of your trainʼs specifics, often
via a computerized information sign hanging
over each platform. As trains (especially
long-distance trains) often split en route
with the front portion going to one city and
the rear to another, you must make sure that
the car you board is going to your destina-
tion. On the outside of each car, there is an
identification panel: on the top of this sign is
the city from which the train originated and
on the bottom is the city of final destination.
In between are listed the main stops. Not
all stops are listed; if yours is not there, you
need to determine from the schedule boards
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
Overnight Trains
On most of the long-distance routes,
there are overnight trains that leave in the
evening and arrive early the next morning.
These trains make sense if you need to
economize on time; instead of wasting the
daylight hours in transit, you sleep while
the train takes you from A to B.
Most overnight trains have double com-
partments, which have two single beds
arranged one above the other. There is
also a washbasin and a shaver outlet, but
no plug for a hairdryer. Bedding (pillow,
sheet and blanket) is also provided. There
is storage space for your luggage, and the
cabin door can be locked from the inside.
This mini-bedroom is not cheap, but the
cost is roughly comparable to what you
would have paid for a hotel room — you
save time, not money.
Also available are multi-bedded options:
most trains have either triple or quad
compartments and usually couchettes that
sleep six people in two sets of triple bunk
beds. Prices start at about $35/person for
couchettes.
Some night trains have a very inexpen-
sive option: sleeping chairs (reclining
seats) arranged in rows airline style.
Flexipasses & Overnight Trains
When taking a direct overnight train leav-
ing after 7pm, you have to use only one
flexipass day; you enter only the next
dayʼs date on your pass, giving you up
until midnight the next day to reach your
final destination.
Editorial Comment
We do not recommend that you make
frequent use of night trains. No matter
how deluxe the train, there is a certain
amount of pitching or rolling like on
a ship and occasional noises like the
squeaking of wheels when brakes are
applied; and if you are a light sleeper, you
may not get a full nightʼs sleep, leaving
you dragging while trying to sightsee the
next morning. Also you may miss some
amazing scenery. For example, it initially
seems smart to overnight from Munich to
Venice to give you additional sightseeing
time in Venice; however, this rail route
over the Brenner Pass in the Tyrolean
Alps is one of the most scenic main rail
lines in Europe, and we think it is a real
loss to pass thru while you are asleep.
or from the conductor when and if that stop
is made. There is usually a conductor on the
platform; and if not sure, it is always best
to ask if you are getting on the right train!
Tip: You might want to write down your
destination and show it to the conductor
so as to eliminate a potential communica-
tion gap!
In order to get off at the right stop, you
should know the stop or two before yours or

Tip! Trains donʼt stop long — usually
for a minute or two; be ready to
board your train as soon as possible after
it arrives.
your approximate time of arrival. Though the
stops are often announced over the PA, these
are usually in “garble-ese” and made even
more difficult to understand because of the
European pronunciation.
Finding the Right Train Car
After finding the right train, your next job
is to board the right car. On most trains, cars
are marked first class or second class with
a large “1” or “2” on the side of the car, and
sometimes first-class cars also have a yellow
stripe running along the top of the car. And
for trains that are reservable, each car and
seat are numbered. If you have a reservation,
your best and easiest bet is to walk along the
outside of the train until you locate the cor-
rect numbered car, then board it and look for
the correct numbered seat, rather than traips-
ing through the inside of the train bumping
everyone with your luggage as you look for
the correct car. So as you wait on a platform
while your train pulls in, look at the numbers
(or the markings for first and second class)
ITINERARY IDEAS
These sample itineraries are designed to
illustrate: 1) how you can easily include many
of the lesser-known, but rewarding, off-the-
beaten-track places; and 2) how much ground
can be comfortably covered using the time-
saving Loop and Base City strategies. These
Switzerland
Day Starting and ending in Zürich
1 Train to Luzern (1 h)
2, 3 Sightseeing; excursion to Mt. Pilatus
4 Boat to Flüelen (3 h); train to Lugano (2 h)
5 Sightseeing or day trip to Como, Italy (1 h)
6 Bus to Tirano, Italy (3 h); Bernina Express
train to St. Moritz (2.5 h)
7 Glacier Express train to Zermatt (8 h)
8, 9 Sightseeing; hiking; Matterhorn skiing
10 Train to Lake Geneva: Vevey (2.5 h) or
Geneva (3.5 h); 11 Sightseeing; lake boats
12 Train to Interlaken via Golden Pass Express
13, 14 Day trips to the surrounding mountain
villages by train, cable cars or hiking
15 Train to Zürich via Brünig Pass (3 h)
France • Spain
Day Starting in Paris and ending in Madrid
1- 3 Sightseeing in Paris
4 Train to Avignon (2.75 h); 5 Sightseeing
6 Train to Carcassonne (3 h)
7 Train to Barcelona (4.5 h); 8, 9 Sightseeing
10 Arrive in Granada by overnight train
11 Train to Seville (3 h); 12 Sightseeing
13 Train to Madrid (2.5 h)
14-16 Sightseeing; day trips to Toledo (1.25 h),
Ávila (1.5 h) or Segovia (2 h)
Need Itinerary Planning Help ? Call 800-441-9413 or 800-441-2387 !
on each car so that you know which direction
to head when the train stops.
As an aid to finding your car, many train
platforms are divided into sectors (often A-E)
that are marked with overhead signs and
lines painted on the platform itself. Then
by referring to the train composition board
usually located in a sign box on the platform,
you can find a diagram, also divided into
sectors, showing the layout of your train and
where it will stop along the platform. For
example, if the first-class cars are in Sector B
on the diagram, simply walk down the plat-
form to Sector B; and when the train arrives,
the first-class cars will stop almost right in
front of you.
Changing Trains
Although itʼs common to have to do this,
itʼs usually as simple as getting off one train,
walking across the platform and getting on
another train, though often you will have
to descend one flight of steps, cross under
the tracks and ascend to a platform on the
other side of the tracks. At major interchange
points, trains are usually timed to arrive at
about the same time. If the train is not just
across the platform, look for a schedule
board on which to find the platform number
of the next train to your final destination.
itineraries are not intended to be prescriptive,
but only to assist you in customizing your own
personal tour.
As an aid to planning, the approximate transit
times have been provided here, and all of the
places listed are discussed further in the country-
sketch section. Those touring Britain or Ireland
will find sample itineraries included in the coun-
try sketches. (More itineraries on page 9.)
Italy
Day Starting and ending in Rome
1-3 Sightseeing in Rome
4 Train to Venice (4.5 h)
5 Sightseeing; 6 Take a water bus to the
Venetian islands of Burano and Murano
7 Train to Lake Garda (1.75 h)
8 Lake boat excursion to Sirmione
9 Train to Cinque Terre (5 h)
10 Sightseeing; hiking; beaches
11 Train to Florence (3 h); 12-14 Sightseeing;
day trips to Siena (1.5 h) or Pisa (1 h)
15 Train to Rome (1.5 h)
Scandinavia
Day Starting in Copenhagen and ending in Oslo
1- 3 Sightseeing; day trips to Roskilde (0.5 h),
Helsingør (1 h) or Hillerød (1 h)
4 Train to Stockholm (5 h)
5, 6 Sightseeing
7 Train to Oslo (5 h)
8, 9 Sightseeing
10 Train to Bergen (6.5 h) — scenic rail line
11 Sightseeing
12 Norway in a Nutshell: fjord trip to Flåm
13 Boat to Stavanger (4.5 h)
14 Sightseeing; 15 Train to Oslo (7.75 h)
Tip! If you donʼt have a reservation
but find that a particular train is
crowded, you canʼt just look for the first
empty seat. You need to find one without a
reservation ticket attached to it (for com-
partments, a seating plan is posted outside
on the wall showing the reserved seats).
If there arenʼt any unreserved seats, then
check the reservation ticket to see for which
portion of the journey the seat is reserved —
you can safely sit in it either before or after
the reserved period. For example, on a train
from Zürich to Vienna, many of the seats
may only be reserved to Innsbruck — after
that they are open seats. If you still canʼt
find an unreserved seat, you can wait until
the train is in motion to see if there are any
no-shows — people who missed the train,
took an earlier train, or changed their plans
— then grab the reserved but empty seat.
Borders and Customs
Between most countries in Europe,
customs formalities are almost nonexistent,
and many times you will not even realize
that you have crossed a border. You should,
however, always have your passport with
you. Customs officials may walk the length
of the train looking at each personʼs passport,
though often they make only spot checks.
Grand Tour of Europe
Day Starting in Amsterdam and ending in Paris
1- 3 Sightseeing in Amsterdam
4 Train to Koblenz (4 h)
5 Rhine River cruise: Bingen-Koblenz (4 h)
6 Train to Heidelberg (1.75 h)
7 Take Castle Road Bus to Rothenburg (5 h)
8 Take Romantic Road Bus to Munich (5 h)
9, 10 Sightseeing; day trips to Füssen (2.5 h),
Salzburg (1.75 h) or Dachau (0.5 h)
11 Train to Luzern (5.25 h); 12 Sightseeing
13 Train to Interlaken via Brünig Pass (2 h)
14, 15 Day trips to nearby mountain villages
16 Train to Venice (6.5 h); 17, 18 Sightseeing
19 Train to Florence (3 h)
20, 21 Sightseeing; day trip to Siena (1.5 h)
22 Train to Rome (1.5 h); 23, 24 Sightseeing
25 Train to Nice (9-10 h)
26, 27 Sightseeing; beaches; day trips to
Monaco (0.5 h) or Cannes (0.5 h)
28 Train to Avignon (3 h)
29 Sightseeing; day trips to Arles (0.5 h), Nîmes
(0.5 h) or Pont du Gard (0.5 h)
30 Train to Paris (2.75 h)
France • Italy
Day Starting in Paris and ending in Rome
1- 3 Sightseeing in Paris
4 Train to Avignon (2.75 h) or
Carcassonne (5.5 h); 5 Sightseeing
6 Train to Nice (3 h or 6 h); 7 Sightseeing;
beaches; day trips to Monaco/Cannes (0.5 h)
8 Train to Florence (6.75 h)
9, 10 Sightseeing; day trip to Siena (1.5 h)
11 Train to Sorrento (5 h) & the Amalfi Coast
12-14 Visit Capri, Positano, Pompeii (0.5-1 h)
15 Train to Rome (3 h); 16-18 Sightseeing
Budget Europe Travel Service 7
 Pictograms
Traveling by train is fairly self-explanatory,
even if you donʼt speak a foreign language, as
Europe has adopted an internationally recog-
nized pictogram system. These universal
symbols, similar to our road signs, are easy to
understand. One of the most important sym-
bols is the one for information— i —where
you see one of these, you can find pertinent
information or even help if necessary. Many
larger stations have staffed information coun-
ters at which you can ask questions about
train matters (English is often spoken).
Food
Most long-distance trains have a dining
car; however, meals are expensive. Some-
what cheaper is the snack fare (sandwiches,
etc.) available from the buffet or bar car
present on most trains. As many train sta-
tions have a plethora of quick-food shops
and sometimes even a small grocery store, a
good way to save money with more choice
is to buy your food before boarding and
then eat picnic style on the train as many
Europeans do.
Note: On some premier trains, a meal or
snack served at your seat is included in the
first-class ticket price. This is common on
many Spanish intercity trains; on Thalys
trains between Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam
and Cologne; on Eurostar trains between
London and Paris or Brussels; and on many
X2000 trains in Sweden. Railpass holders
sitting in first class on these trains must pay
for the meal as part of the mandatory seat
reservation fee.
Luggage Concerns
The watchword here is to travel as light as
possible. As there is no porter service at most
European stations and luggage trolleys are
almost always unavailable, youʼll be respon-
sible for carrying your own luggage, and
often this means up and down the stairs to
train platforms (or your hotel room). Travel
light: there is no greater drawback to a
pleasurable vacation than lugging around
unwieldy, heavy luggage.
Choose your luggage wisely. Settle on the
smallest bag possible, as you will have to lift
it and port it yourself. Fortunately, there are
many great bags perfect for train travel. Make
sure that your main bag can roll as some
trains approach a quarter-mile in length.
Luggage on Trains
Travelers are allowed to take on trains as
much luggage as will fit under their seats or
in the luggage racks above their seats; trains
also have racks at the ends of the train cars
where bags can be stowed. The bags, how-
ever, must fit on the racks; for safety reasons,
they can not be left in the aisle, or even par-
tially jutting out into the aisle. So, again, a
small bag fits the bill and is easier to lift onto
the racks. Travelers are responsible for keep-
ing an eye on their own bags.
8 Budget Europe Travel Service
On trains you do not check your luggage,
but take it with you. There are luggage racks
above your seat for small- and medium-sized
pieces, and a storage space at the end of most
rail cars for oversized pieces. One of the ad-
vantages of first class, with its much greater
personal space, is that often you can store
your luggage right at or behind your seat.
Lockers
Many train stations have coin-operated
lockers (often hidden away). These are ideal
for those travelers stopping off en route for
a few hours, or who donʼt want to lug all of
their luggage to their hotel. Pack what you
need to take in a small daypack — a good
idea is to carry an empty, folded-up daypack
inside your luggage for this purpose or to
buy one of the bags with a detachable day-
pack. Lockers are usually readily available in
the smaller stations; however, in a few of the
large stations, empty lockers can be hard to
find. In a pinch you could use the attendant-
operated checkrooms that usually exist in
larger stations. As the charge is per piece of
luggage, this service can be quite expensive.
Note: In Britain lockers are seldom avail-
able; and in France, Italy and Spain, lockers
are usually only available at major stations.
Reservations
Reservations are not formally required
on most trains in Germany, Switzerland,
Austria, Holland, Belgium and Great Britain;
and although you will usually find seats,
especially in first class, it is best to make seat
reservations for long-distance trains. At peak
times without seat reservations, you may
have to sit apart or even stand until a seat
opens up; however, you are always allowed
to board the train regardless of how full it is.
In France, Italy, Spain and on quality
express trains in many other countries, seat
reservations are usually required. Point-to-
point tickets are sold with the reservation
included; for railpasses, the seat reservation
needs to be made separately at an additional
charge.
On local trains, reservations generally canʼt
be made, and seats are occupied on a first-
come, first-served basis. Try to board these
trains as soon as they arrive in the station.
Specialty trains like the Glacier or Bernina
express trains in Switzerland also require
reservations and should be made as soon as
possible in order to get prized window seats.
Reservations can be made 90 days prior to
the departure for Swiss, French, German,
Italian and many international trains, and
60 days out for most other trains.
See page 33 of this Guide for more about
train reservations country by country.
No Smoking on Trains
After a long, hard-fought struggle, smok-
ing is no longer permitted on trains across
nearly all European countries. In many
countries, smoking is not permitted in train
stations or only in designated areas.
To Order, Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
Weather/Tourist Season
Another factor to consider is the time of
the year of your trip. Weather is straight-
forward. Northern Europe has mild sum-
mers with bouts of rain, especially misty
rain, common; while southern Europe
(Greece, Spain, southern France, Italy)
has hot and often humid summers. If
possible, visit the north in the months
of June, July or August; whereas, spring
or fall are ideal for the south. Addition-
ally, most Europeans take their vacations
in July and August with millions of
Northerners heading south to the sun and
beaches of the Mediterranean. If possible,
avoid the Mediterranean area at this time
of the year — youʼll still find it crowded
in September, but at least itʼs manageable
then. June is the least crowded summer
month for the south. In July and August,
trains in the south (and ones heading
there) are packed, and accommodations
can be hard to find — itʼs probably a
good idea to make reservations for any
long-distance train rides.
Even winter travel is not out of the
question, as across much of Europe
winters are fairly mild. The great bonus
of off-season travel is that youʼll have
tourist meccas like Florence or Venice
nearly to yourself and hotel prices can be
considerably cheaper.
See the Temperature and Rainfall
Chart on page 38
When To Arrive at the Station
As ticketing is done on the train, there is no
formal check-in time (except for the Eurostar
trains between London and Paris/Brussels).
We advise getting to the station about 20-30
minutes early so that you can leisurely find
your train without resorting to sprinting and
jumping aboard the trains as it pulls out.
Tips for Reserving in Europe
At the reservation window in the train
station, show the clerk your railpass and,
if you donʼt speak the language, a note
with the following info:
• departure and arrival cities using the
spelling off the Eurail map
(i.e. Milano→Roma)
• travel date using European format
(i.e. 30/12 or 30 Dec)
• departure time using the 24-hour
clock (i.e. 1300 for 1pm)
• number of passengers
• travel class (1 Cl. or 2 Cl. as indicated
on railpass)
• seat info (i.e. window or aisle; some-
times you can ask for forward-facing
seats)
Before leaving, check everything over for
correctness! Note: Reservations made in Eu-
rope often must be self-validated in machines
on the platform before boarding your train!
 More Itineraries
France • Italy • Switzerland Germany • Austria • Italy England • Scotland • Wales
Day Starting in Paris; ending in Paris or Zürich Day Starting in Frankfurt; ending in Rome Day Starting and ending in London
1 Train to Avignon (2.75 h) 1 From airport, train to Heidelberg (1.5 h) 1- 3 Sightseeing
2 Sightseeing 2 Sightseeing 4 Train to York (2 h)
3 Day trip to Arles or Nîmes (0.5 h each) 3 Castle Road Bus to Rothenburg (5 h) 5 Train to Edinburgh (2 h)
4 Train to Nice (3 h) 4 Romantic Road Bus to Munich (5 h) 6, 7 Sightseeing; day trip to Stirling (1 h)
5 Day trip to Cannes and its beach (0.5 h) 5-7 Sightseeing; day trips to Füssen (2 h), 8 Train to Conwy in North Wales (5.75 h)
6 Day trip to Monaco (0.5 h) Salzburg (1.5 h) or Dachau (0.5 h) 9, 10 Sightseeing; excursion to Mt. Snowdonia
7 Train to Florence (6.75 h) 8 Train (4 h) and ferry (0.25 h) to Halstatt 11 Train to Bath (5 h)
8 Sightseeing 9 Sightseeing; hiking 12 Day trip to Salisbury & Stonehenge (1 h)
9 Train to Venice (3 h); 10 Sightseeing 10 Train to Vienna (4 h) 13 Train to London (1.5 h)
11 Train to Tirano (6 h) 11, 12 Sightseeing; day trip to Melk (1.25 h) 14, 15 Day trips to Oxford (1 h), Cambridge (1 h),
12 Bernina Express train to St. Moritz (2.5 h) 13 Train to Venice (8 h) Canterbury (1.5 h) or Windsor (0.75 h)
13 Train to Luzern (4.5 h) 14, 15 Sightseeing; visit Burano and Murano
14 Train to Interlaken via Brünig Pass (2 h)
15 Visit the mountain villages of the Jungfrau
16 Train to Florence (3 h) • 5
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17, 18 Sightseeing; day trip to Siena (1.5 h)
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if passing thru — and no matter where you
go in northern Germany by train you almost
always have to pass thru this busy rail junc-
tion. The main sights are only a few steps
from the station. The massive Kölner Dom,
one of the worldʼs largest cathedrals, is well
worth the visit alone. There is also an im-
pressive archaeological museum displaying
artifacts from Cologneʼs Roman past, and the
cityʼs shopping district is one of the finest in
Germany. (A classic 2-4 hr stop.)
Bonn is a delightful stop between Cologne
and Koblenz. Though a fast-growing city,
Bonn still retains much of its small village
charm. Beethoven was born here, and his
house is open to the public.
Frankfurt is a mega-city with little to
offer the typical traveler beyond its fine
museums; but if youʼre not an art aficionado,
you may find its drab modern appearance
a disappointment, paling in comparison to
such nearby gems as Heidelberg or towns on
the Rhine. So if landing here, consider taking
trains right from the airport to one of those!
10 Budget Europe Travel Service To Order German Flexipasses, Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 !
€
(5 1/2 hrs) SWITZERLAND SALZBURG)
Heidelberg, nestled in the Neckar Valley, is Rhine Valley, especially as a weekend get-
a lively university town with an impressive away for Germans. There is a footpath (and
Altstadt and an imposing castle overlooking chairlift) thru the vineyards, from which there
the city. Its student inns offer interesting are great views of the Rhine. At Rüdesheim
nightlife for young people. If landing in it is easy to catch the Rhine River boats.
Frankfurt, Heidelberg is an ideal place to Baden-Baden, one of Europeʼs most ven-
spend your first night (1 hr from the airport). erable spa towns, is an easy stopover on the
Rüdesheim, wedged between the Rhine way to Switzerland or France. Weary trav-
and steep-terraced vineyards that rise behind elers will want to take a long soak in its
it, is probably the most popular town in the centuries-old thermal baths, a leisurely stroll
Rhine River Steamers
All railpasses valid in Germany give free boat travel on the Rhine between Cologne
and Mainz. Sit back and let the river and its many clifftop castles unfold as you laze on
the deck — perhaps with a picnic lunch and a bottle of local Rhine wine at hand. You can
board or leave the boats at many intermediate points along the route with convenient train
connections. Best Part: For seeing the fabled hilltop castles, go between Koblenz and
Bingen (4-6 hrs). On this stretch is Boppard, a stately river town, and St. Goar, the site
of the Lorelei — a steep cliff rising out of the river where in German mythology a golden-
haired siren lured boatmen to their deaths on the rocks below. Boats are expensive if you
donʼt have a railpass: Koblenz to Bingen, about $40; Cologne to Mainz, about $75.

along its pleasant riverside park promenade,
and a not-to-be-missed guided tour of its
extravagantly lavish casino.
Freiburg is a quaint university town offer-
ing many hikes and excursions into the Black
Forest Region surrounding the town. The
town itself is renowned for both its Münster,
one of Germanyʼs greatest Gothic cathedrals,
and for its famous university at which many
Americans study each year. Scenic trains
run from Freiburg into the Black Forest with
its picture-postcard towns — Freudenstadt
makes a good stop. If heading to Switzer-
land from Freiburg, a most scenic way is
via the sideline thru the Black Forest to
Schaffhausen (Switzerland), which merits a
look not only because of the town but for its
Rhine Falls, a most impressive thundering
waterfall only a short walk from the town.
Basel, where Germany, France and Switzer-
land all meet, is one of Europeʼs largest rail
hubs. From here it is easy to catch a train in
any direction. The Swiss Basel is very pleasant
— well worth a stop.
Stuttgart, an easy stop on the main rail
line between Munich and Frankfurt, lost
much of its touristic appeal when its historic
buildings were decimated in WWII, but
may well be the catʼs meow to car fanatics.
Highlights, besides the first-rate art in the
Staatsgalerie, are the Porsche Museum,
the Mercedes-Benz Museum, as well as a
tour of a M-B auto plant, to see the fancy
cars come off the assembly line and to buy
memorabilia or even a new Mercedes to take
back home!
THE MOSEL VALLEY
The tranquil Mosel River runs in a deep
vineyard-covered gorge from Trier to
Koblenz, where it meets the Rhine. By train
itʼs best seen from Koblenz to Cochem — the
only place the tracks go right along the river.
Itʼs better seen from the boats (free with rail-
passes) that also go from Koblenz to Cochem.
Cochem is the jewel of the many pictur-
esque wine towns that dot the Mosel. Narrow
twisting cobblestone streets lead up to the
castle of your dreams perched high above the
town and river below. At the Hieronimi Winery
or wine stubes (tasting rooms) along the townʼs
riverfront, you can sample the acclaimed
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
Mosel wines. Cochemʼs many zimmers (rooms
in private houses) have soft feather quilts and
prices much lower than in larger cities.
Burg Eltz, one of Europeʼs most majestic
castles, is a short and highly recommended
detour off the river. Sitting high up in the Eifel
Mountains, it is easily reached by local train or
boat from Koblenz or Cochem to Moselkern,
from where itʼs a short and lovely uphill walk
thru the forest.
Trier, Germanyʼs oldest city, has superb
Roman ruins — an amphitheater, baths and
a massive gate — the Porta Nigra — “the
gateway to the northern empire.” Trier also
offers the Karl Marx House (birthplace and
museum), a fine cathedral and great shopping.
If going to France, Luxembourg or Belgium
from the Rhine, the Mosel is an ideal route.
(Koblenz–Luxembourg: 2 hrs; Luxembourg–
Paris: 2 hrs; Luxembourg–Brussels: 3 hrs.)
The Mosel Boats
Try to take the small steamers between
Cochem and Koblenz to best appreciate
the dramatic Mosel Valley and its many
colorful wine-growing villages. You may
consider the Mosel boats as an alternative
to the Rhine boats — the scenery is per-
haps nicer and the boats are not as
crowded. (Boat rides cost $36 one way,
but are free with railpasses.)
BAVARIA
Füssen, a small town at the end of the
Romantic Road in the Bavarian Alps, is
a “must” place to visit because of its two
exceptional castles, Hohenschwangau and
Neuschwanstein. Hohenschwangau, a 12th-
century castle, was lavishly restored in the
1830ʼs, while Neuschwanstein was built
in the 1880ʼs according to the surrealistic
fantasies of “Mad King Ludwig” of “what a
castle should look like.” This castle is liter-
ally a dream castle — inside there are dozens
of rooms of unbelievable beauty and rich-
ness, and outside turrets and towers without
purpose soar into the sky. The neighboring
castles are a two-mile walk thru a forest or a
short bus ride from the station.
From Füssen you can go to Munich by train
(3 hrs) or go on to Austria and Innsbruck
by rail, although you must take a short bus
ride to Reutte in Austria to connect with the
Innsbruck line. Garmisch-Partenkirchen is
on the latter line — this most famous of Ger-
manyʼs mountain resorts makes an interesting
stop. The Reutte–Innsbruck rail ride is a very
scenic mountain line.
Munich (München) can make a great base
city. Not only does it have attractions enough
to fill several days, but there are many
day-trip possibilities. Munichʼs attractions
include several world-famous museums (the
Neue Pinakothek and the Alte Pinakothek
plus the Deutsches Museum, the worldʼs
largest technological museum) and the
famous Glockenspiel in the Marienplatz
where at scheduled times the clock does its
“thing.” Munichʼs pedestrian streets around
the Marienplatz are a shopperʼs paradise. For
relaxing, try the Englischer Garten, a large
park popular with locals since the 18th cen-
tury. There are many walking trails, pavilions
and lakes plus the cityʼs largest beer garden.
Munich is also one of Europeʼs most in-
triguing “night” cities. Beer halls are a Mu-
nich tradition. The Hofbräuhaus is famous
worldwide. Here youʼll see the strong-armed
waitresses carrying an unfathomable number
of heavy beer-laden steins to thirsty cus-
tomers. Besides the beer, these places serve
unpretentious but filling German food, and,
of course, there are the ubiquitous oompah
bands belting out German folk music and
drinking songs. Many people join in the
singing, and the dancing at times jumps to
the table tops. Multi-tiered places like the
Hofbräuhaus seat literally thousands of
merrymakers. The Schwabing — a restau-
rant, club and live music (jazz is a specialty)
ghetto — is one of Europeʼs foremost night
districts famous for its festive ambience. The
party lasts until the early morning.
Day Trips From Munich: Dachau,
30 minutes by train from Munich, is the
site of the infamous (and first) concentra-
tion camp. Now a museum and memorial
to victims of Nazi brutality, Dachau, while
soberly depressing, is a conscious-raising
must. Berchtesgaden (3 hrs from Munich)
is a fun trip for its salt mines. Youʼll don a
minerʼs hat and glide down slides into the old
mines before taking an underground boat trip.
Perched high on the Bavarian Alp of Kehl-
stein (near Berchtesgaden) is Hitlerʼs retreat,
the Eagleʼs Nest. Now converted to a café,
the views remain the same — outstanding!
Herrenchiemsee, “Mad” Ludwigʼs famous is-
land castle, is at Prien (1 hr by train from Mu-
nich or Salzburg). Salzburg and Innsbruck
are also possible day trips being less than two
hours away from Munich by train.
The Romantic Road Bus
A great way to go from the Rhine area
to Bavaria is via this bus line which runs
from Frankfurt and Würzburg to Mu-
nich or Füssen (nestled in the Bavarian
Alps); and with a railpass, you get a 20%
discount off the $125-150 fare. These
comfortable buses, with a running com-
mentary in several languages, take you
along a route sprinkled with old-world
villages. Stops are made at the dreamy
medieval towns of Rothenburg and
Dinkelsbühl. We suggest taking the bus
from Würzburg (excellent rail connec-
tions; and the best part of the route begins
here) to either Munich or Füssen. If
youʼre rushed, you can make the whole
trip in a day, but if possible stay in either
Rothenburg or Dinkelsbühl — two excep-
tional towns. If you can overlook the vo-
luminous hordes of tourists it attracts,
Rothenburg, still surrounded by its an-
cient fortress walls, is the highlight of the
trip, one of the most charming medieval-
looking towns in all of Europe.
Budget Europe Travel Service 11

Oktoberfest
Oktoberfest, running from late September
to early October, is Munichʼs veneration
of the local beer industry and an all-out
party. Set in a park near the train station,
the many large circus tents (each sponsored
by a different brewery) bring out thousands
to enjoy the oompah bands, fattening foods
and, of course, steins of beer. The highlight
for many are the world-famous parades that
kick off the opening weekend.
OTHER CITIES
Germany has an inordinate number of
interesting, lovely-looking towns that are
in some ways more preferable to the highly
touristed places like Munich and Heidelberg.
Space here prohibits a thorough description,
but a brief listing of several of the more
interesting ones follows.
Hamburg, a hub for trains to Scandina-
via, is a large city with few “must” sights,
but has an interesting port area and sailorsʼ
quarter — the St. Pauli district. If you prefer
smaller towns, you should consider visiting
Lübeck to the north or Celle to the south of
Hamburg; both are picturesque historic cities
filled with the old-world charm often lacking
in the big cities. Also worth stops are Goslar
and Göttingen just to the south of Hannover.
Marburg (1 hr north of Frankfurt) is a
fairy-tale town brim full of tall multi-hued
half-timbered buildings. There is also an
impressive castle as well as Germanyʼs old-
est Gothic church (AD 1235).
Ulm, on the main line to Munich, merits a
short stop if only to see and climb the tower
of Germanyʼs tallest cathedral — one of the
countryʼs most famous churches.
Bamberg, on the train line from Munich to
Berlin, is one of Germanyʼs best-preserved
old towns and is filled with architectural
splendors. Give it a stop if looking for a
dream town not inundated by tourists.
Regensburg, set on the banks of the Danube
(90 mins north of Munich), fortunately hasnʼt
12 Budget Europe Travel Service
been marred by the scourges of modern war.
The old quarter of this once-important city
still hosts street upon street of old patrician
homes, ornate Baroque edifices, plus numer-
ous Romanesque and Gothic churches.
Lake Constance (Bodensee) is a beautiful
40-mile-long lake between Germany, Swit-
zerland and Austria. Many picturesque towns
dot its shores — Constance, Überlingen,
Meersburg and Lindau, the latter built on
an island in the lake. If going from Munich
to Zürich, the train line traverses the Lake
Constance area — break your journey here
and enjoy a place few other Americans see.
Berlin
The Wall is gone, and a bustling Berlin
is once again Germanyʼs capital. Major
sights are the recently restored Reichstag,
whose highlight is the trek up to the top
of its famous glass dome; the Branden-
burg Gate (the symbol of Berlin); the av-
enue Unter den Linden leading from the
gate, lined with a collection of impressive
monumental 18th-century buildings; Mu-
seum Island with its extraordinary Per-
gamon Museum (one of the worldʼs
greatest antiquity repositories); the archi-
tecturally thought-provoking Jewish Mu-
seum; and the Baroque Charlottenburg
Castle. Berlinʼs divided past is brought to
vivid life at the East Side Gallery, where
the best remaining stretch of Wall dis-
plays poignant murals, or at the Check-
point Charlie Museum, which docu-
ments the infamous history of the Wall.
WHAT WAS ONCE EAST GERMANY
Potsdam, the former royal seat of the
Prussian Empire, is only an hour southwest
of Berlin. Donʼt miss Sanssouci Park.
Dresden is worth a visit to see its many
great art treasures in the Zwinger (including
the Old Masters Gallery) and the Alberti-
num. Nearby to Dresden is Meissen, famous
for its porcelain. Visit the quaint castle quar-
ter tucked high above the Elbe River. South-
east of Dresden is an area of natural beauty
dubbed Saxon Switzerland, most noted
for its star attractions: the Elbe River Val-
ley, the Bastei Belvedere, the Königstein
Fortress and the riverside spa town of Bad
Schandau.
Leipzig has few tourist attractions, but
serves as a good base as it has many hotels.
Close to Leipzig are Naumburg, a small
medieval charmer, Erfurt, with its fine
old quarter largely undamaged by war, and
Weimar, the town built in a park, where
the houses of Goethe, Schiller and Liszt
can be visited. West of Erfurt is Eisenach,
best known for the mighty-looking crag-top
Wartburg Castle.
Schwerin, between Hamburg and Berlin,
has a picture-perfect Baroque Schloss (castle)
on an island and an immense Gothic Dom.
Rail Itinerary Questions ? Call BETS !
� 800-441-9413 or 800-441-2387 �
To Order Swiss Railpasses, Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 !
SWITZERLAND
Without doubt, Switzerland is the most
beautiful country in Europe, with the Alps
being the high point of any trip. The breath-
taking vistas of sparkling mountain lakes and
waterfalls, lush green valleys and picture-
perfect chalets with their bright flower boxes
are all more impressive than you can imag-
ine. Donʼt bypass the Swiss cities, theyʼre
jewels in themselves. Because itʼs centrally
located, Switzerland can be easily included
in any Eurail trip. Consider basing yourself
and taking day trips to practically anywhere
in the country from your home base.
Trains: The Swiss train system is superb
with departures every half hour to every
major city within Switzerland. Connections
to other countries are also excellent; for
example, Geneva is less than four hours from
Paris. Railpasses are a bargain here in light
of steep ordinary fares, even for short day
trips, and are valid on some outstanding but
expensive private mountain railways and
steamers on many of the idyllic Swiss lakes.
The Swiss Pass and Swiss Flexipass give
unlimited travel on the Swiss national rail
network and many private railways, postal
buses and lake steamers. See our website,
www.budgeteuropetravel.com, for details and
prices of all railpasses valid in Switzerland.
The Alps are most dramatic at Zermatt
with the Matterhorn and at Grindelwald
with the equally famous Jungfrau. Each
area offers magnificent mountains, but
the Jungfrau Region may be your best
bet — for it is more easily reached and offers
many more gentle hiking trails and attractive
mountain villages.
Interlaken, set between two pristine lakes,
attracts crowds of tourists as it is the gateway
to the spectacular Jungfrau Region and the
Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau peaks. After a
quick look at this pleasant but crowded city,
head for the hills!
Glacier Express
A favorite with scenery enthusiasts is
this photog-heaven train ride which tra-
verses the heart of the Alps between
St. Moritz, a glitzy mountain resort, and
Zermatt, a car-less chalet-full village be-
low the princely Matterhorn. From the
glass-domed observation cars on Europeʼs
slowest “express” train, enjoy the rugged
snowcapped Alps, rushing mountain
rivers, thundering waterfalls, and alpine
pastures. (8 hrs; $226 first cl., $136 sec-
ond cl.; free with Swiss Passes only.)
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Grindelwald is a charming village that
allows a closer look at one of the most en-
thralling mountain regions. From here you
can begin your firsthand adventure with one
of the many chair lifts, cable cars or hikes
on well-marked trails. A fabulous trip is
the private Jungfrau Railway that climbs
to 11,333 feet, ending at Europeʼs highest
train station, atop a glacier where the views
are stunning (a hefty $163 round trip from
Interlaken; 25% discount with railpasses).
Lausanne, a “French” Swiss university
town, is set picturesquely on Lake Geneva.
Its famous Cathedral, called one of the finest
Swiss Gothic buildings, has an exquisite rose
window. The city also has one of Europeʼs
most bizarre art museums, Collection dʼArt
Brut, devoted to works by the insane.
A Jungfrau Jaunt
For a rewarding and unforgettable day
in the Jungfrau Region, take one of the
trails (or the gondola) from Grindelwald
(3,392 ft) up to Männlichen (7,687 ft),
then a cable car down to Wengen
(4,180 ft) in the next valley, where you
can catch a train or walk down to Lauter-
brunnen (2,612 ft), another lovely valley
town. From there you can take an incred-
ibly steep funicular and another short
mountain train to Mürren (5,397 ft).
Gimmelwald, a leisurely half-hour walk
from Mürren, is a tiny farm village lost in
the high mountains. Stay overnight in the
mountains or take the cable-car plunge
back to the valley floor and then bus back
to Lauterbrunnen. All of this route can be
done by foot on well-maintained walking
paths requiring no special hiking shoes.
Trails are well marked with directional
signs so that you canʼt get lost. No matter
how you go — on foot, train or by lift —
it will be an uplifting experience!
Railpass or Ticket Prices ?
Golden Pass Line
Not only is this one of Europeʼs most
scenic train rides, but itʼs also an amazing
way to go between Luzern, Interlaken
and Lausanne or Geneva. From Luzern
the train serpentines up and over the steep
Brünig Pass and along a glittering lake to
Interlaken. Then it glides along yet another
glorious lake and more phenomenal moun-
tain countryside until it reaches its grand
finale — its breathtaking descent via a se-
ries of hairpin turns to Lake Geneva at
Montreux, a fab lake resort noted for its
swinging Jazz Festival (in July) and the
neighboring Chillon Castle. Though
other trains run this route, only the
Golden Pass Panoramic trains have glass-
domed observation cars, but the mountain
panoramas are tremendous from any
train. (This five-hour ride is free with
railpasses.)
Geneva is a uniquely cosmopolitan city with
the headquarters of many global organizations,
like the Red Cross, located here. The cityʼs
attractive setting on Lake Geneva with the
Mont Blanc massif rising up from the opposite
shore is memorable. The Jet dʼEau or “Peace
Fountain” that shoots up from the lake is the
worldʼs tallest fountain. Vevey (1 hr from Ge-
neva), a smart resort on Lake Geneva, makes
a great base for discovering the lake area if
you prefer smaller towns. The hilltop village
of Gruyères (1 hr from Montreux and Lake
Geneva) is fabled for its 15th-century Castle
and its cheese — leave time to visit the factory
to see Gruyère cheese being made.
Luzern (Lucerne) with its mountain
backdrop, elegant lake front and fashionable
shops is perhaps the “nicest” of the nice Swiss
towns. Donʼt miss the famous covered wooden
bridges with their 16th- thru 18th-century
paintings and out-of-this-world spider webs. A
Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
walk along the lake is a great way to enjoy the
ring of towering mountains. You can also stroll
atop the town wall and climb the towers.
Bern, an unassuming capital city, has a
wonderful Baroque-looking old town with an
excellent shopping area. Due to its central lo-
cation, Bern is a great base city with easy day
trips to the Rhine Falls (see Germany section)
and many Swiss attractions.
Zürich is a beautiful, opulent large city that
offers a tremendous view of the mountains and
Lake Zürich. The stately Bahnhofstrasse,
called the worldʼs richest street, is lined with
numerous Swiss banks and many of the
worldʼs most luxurious shops and boutiques.
If on a megabuck budget, Zürichʼs for you. If
not, satiate yourself with a quick look, salivate
at the store windows and move on.
Crossing Borders the Scenic Way: If on
your way to France, you can take the spell-
binding Martigny–Chamonix narrow-gauge
line (free with railpasses). This two-hour thrill
ride winds its way up and over a steep moun-
tain pass to Chamonix, a French alpine resort
town near Mont Blanc, Europeʼs highest
mountain. Just before Chamonix, imposing
glaciers seemingly border the tracks. There is
good train service from Chamonix to all parts
of France, and you can even gondola your way
to Italy (see page 25).
For a dramatic ride between Switzerland
and Italy, take the Bernina Express (covered
in our Italy section.)
Centovalli Line
Rail or Swiss-scenery buffs will enjoy
this private narrow-gauge train chugging
thru the Centovalli (“100 valleys”) be-
tween Locarno and Domodossola, Italy.
Locarno, on Lake Maggiore, sports an
Italian flavor replete with palm trees and
makes a good stopover. (This two-hour
ride is free with Eurail and Swiss passes.)
Budget Europe Travel Service 13

AUSTRIA
Austria is one of Europeʼs prettiest coun-
tries with its superb mountain views and
unique-looking cities, such as Salzburg,
Vienna and Innsbruck. Unfortunately, many
people simply pass thru Austria in a few
nonstop hours on the main train line from
Munich to Italy, which traverses a tiny part
of Austria as it goes thru the Brenner Pass.
Donʼt cut Austria short!
Trains: Austrian trains are extremely good
and rarely crowded. Railpasses pay off here
for fares are as high as the Tyrolean Alps.
Nearly every rail line in Austria can be called
scenic. See www.budgeteuropetravel.com
for details and prices of all railpasses valid
in Austria.
Innsbruck offers an engaging historic
center, with the gilded Little Golden Roof,
the imposing Giantʼs Hall in the Imperial
Palace, and the Imperial Church with its
giant bronzes. But the real attraction here is
the easy access to, and the smashing alpine
views of, the surrounding Tyrolean Alps.
For a few Tyrolean wows on Innsbruckʼs
outskirts, ride a mountain tram to the Ren-
aissance Ambras Castle and then on to an
Olympic venue, the small alpine village of
Igls; or ride the funicular railway to Hunger-
burg and then the cable car to Hafelekar.
Salzburg, with an exceedingly enchanting
Baroque look, is one of Europeʼs dreami-
est cities, topped off by a romantic castle to
boot. The City of Mozart stages the world-
renowned Salzburg Festival, which dur-
ing late July and August attracts throngs of
The Best of the “Blue” Danube
An irresistible day trip out of Vienna is
to take a cruise between Melk and Krems,
the best part of the Danube. This two-hour
ride will give you a look at three picture-
postcard towns: Melk with its famous ab-
bey, the Kloster Melk, a Baroque fantasy;
Dürnstein with its castle ruin where Rich-
ard the Lion-Hearted was imprisoned after
returning from the Crusades; and Krems, a
historic wine town (see the wine museum).
A possible day trip is to take a train to
Melk, a boat to Dürnstein or Krems, and
then a train or boat back to Vienna.
14 Budget Europe Travel Service
classical music lovers. Salzburg makes a
good base for excursions into the surround-
ing Salzkammergut, the lovely “Sound of
Music” mountains. For a quick look at the
peaks, consider joining one of the tourist of-
fice bus tours (4 hrs; $55). Or from Salzburg
hop a bus to St. Gilgen (1 hr), then steam
across pristine Lake Wolfgang to picture-
perfect St. Wolfgang (40 mins) and then go
by bus to Bad Ischl (40 mins). At St. Wolf-
gang a thrilling steam train chugs to the
Schafbergspitze summit ($40 round trip).
Hallstatt is in one of Europeʼs most idyl-
lic areas. The reflection of this bewitchingly
beautiful village along with its mountain
backdrop can be seen on a sparkling alpine
lake (pictured on all the Austrian Tourist
Office posters). If coming by train from
Salzburg, change at Attnang-Puchheim to a
gorgeous sideline which takes you into this
mountain area via Bad Ischl (2 hrs from
Salzburg). Reasonably priced Zimmers (bed-
and-breakfasts) abound in local dwellings
here. Wonderful hikes into the surrounding
forests and mountains can be taken on well-
marked, gently sloping trails. If looking for
a quiet spot away from hectic big cities, the
Hallstatt area is it — either as a day trip from
Salzburg or, better, as an overnight stop.
The Innsbruck–Salzburg Train
This ride, one of Austriaʼs most scenic,
takes you thru the heart of the Tyrolean
Alps on its four-hour run. If you wish to
break your journey, stop at Kitzbühel, a
world-famous upscale ski resort, or at Zell
am See, a small mountain-ringed lake-side
town. In the summer you can take super hikes
in the neighboring Alps from either place.
Vienna (Wien) is a city which reflects
a grandiose past and a distinctive central
European flavor. Until WWI, Vienna was
the elegant capital of the powerful Hapsburg
Empire, which ruled over most of Eastern
Europe. Today just the capital city of a small
country, Viennaʼs grand palaces and other
vestiges of its former Empire loom out of
place but still hint at its one-time importance.
Vienna, one of the worldʼs great culture
capitals, is renowned for its State Opera and
Vienna Boysʼ Choir (both on hiatus in sum-
mer) and for three of the worldʼs finest art
collections, the Museum of Fine Arts, the
Albertina, and the Museum of Modern Art
in the Museums Quarter. Another Viennese
institution is the Spanish Riding School and
its famous Lipizzaner Stallions. Though
shows are sold out months in advance, try to
attend one of the daily (and much cheaper)
rehearsals instead. Other Viennese sights
include Sigmund Freudʼs House, with
his office and museum, and the Prater, an
amusement park where you can ride the
Big Wheel (a huge ferris wheel) which has
become the symbol of Vienna. At Grinzing
and other villages on the edge of Vienna, the
heurigen (wine-houses serving only wine
produced on the property) make for festive
and memorable nights.
To Order, Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
South from Vienna: Northern Italy can
be easily reached in a day (Vienna–Venice:
8 hrs). Take the day train so that you wonʼt
miss the mountain scenery. Stop off in
Klagenfurt, a pleasant town set near an idyl-
lic mountain lake, if you wish to break your
journey. Graz, an unusually attractive city
with an Eastern European influence, is worth
a stop even though itʼs just off the main
Vienna-Italy rail line (on the rail line that
branches off to Slovenia and Croatia).
HUNGARY
Hungary, situated east of Austria, is easily
accessible by rail from Vienna — go to Hun-
gary to get an Eastern European experience.
Trains: Service is good between the major
cities. EuroCity (EC) train service between
Vienna and Budapest takes less than three
hours, making a day trip possible. See www.
budgeteuropetravel.com for details and
prices of all railpasses valid in Hungary.
Budapest, the lovely Hungarian capital,
straddles the Danube River — with Buda on
one side and Pest on the other. The heart of
the “old quarter” with its Baroque houses,
inviting cafés and crooked cobblestone
roads is located on Castle Hill (Várhegy) in
Buda. Here youʼll find Mátyás Cathedral,
coronation site of Hungarian royalty; the
Fishermenʼs Bastion (so-called because
fishermen once manned the citadel), which
offers fine views overlooking the city and the
Danube; and the reconstructed Royal Palace,
which houses the Historical Museum and
National Gallery. Contrasting with the “old”
is modern Pest, the cityʼs commercial and
governmental hub, with its wide boulevards,
bustling markets and plentiful shops. The
Parliament, National Museum, Museum of
Fine Arts and Museum of Applied Arts are
all located here. In the middle of the Danube
is the island of Margitsziget — a park with
a sports stadium, pool, lovely gardens and
walking paths. In the summer, many outdoor
plays and concerts are staged here.
Sopron, near the Austrian border (2 hrs
from Vienna), is one of Hungaryʼs loveliest
and best-preserved ancient towns. Amaz-
ingly, it escaped the destruction that devas-
tated much of this region over the centuries,
leaving much of its medieval beauty intact.
Györ, though an industrialized city, has a
surprisingly large and romantic “old town”
at the confluence of the Danube and Rába
rivers. (Itʼs on the Vienna-Budapest rail line;
90 mins from Vienna.)
Balaton Lake, one of the largest lakes in
Europe, and one of the most touristed rec-
reation areas, is easily reached by rail (from
Budapest: 3 hrs; Vienna: 6 hrs). Its 118 miles
of shoreline are dotted with spas, resorts and
cafés. Besides its many beaches and water-
sport possibilities, there are also mineral
springs pouring forth curative waters. The
northern side of the lake with its vineyard-
and forest-covered hills, especially the
Tihany peninsula, is the most beautiful, and
is crowded during “high season.”
 MILAN
SWITZERLAND MILAN to MUNICH VIENNA • Italia trains between Milan, Florence, Rome
and Naples top off at 186 mph. A few jour-
•

€
•
to BASEL (7-8 hrs)

€
(4 hrs) BRIG TIRANO to CHUR
CHAMONIX MILAN
(4.5 hrs) INNSBRUCK AUSTRIA ney times from city center to city center:

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to BASEL

•
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Rome–Milan, just 3 hours; Rome–Florence,

• •
TR BRENNERO
€
(7 hrs) S

€
••• •
BRUCK a. d. MUR
MODA AOSTA VENICE to
only 95 minutes; Rome–Naples, 70 minutes;
•
NE PRÉ. VIENNA

•
CHIASSO TIRANO BOLZANO GRAZ
(8.5 hrs)
and Rome–Venice, less than 4 hours. See
FRANCE

ST. DIDIER

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COMO

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VILLACH

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and prices of all railpasses valid in Italy.
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(10 hrs) hrs
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2.75

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the world-famous gaudy Neoclassic opera
•
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CALVI NG SIENA MARINO SARAJEVO
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TERONTOLA house, La Scala; and the Galleria Vittorio
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Emanuele, an ornate iron and glass shop-
• • •
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PATRAS, GREECE ping arcade, the precursor of the modern

• R•OME
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shopping mall. Milan has frequent trains to
CIVITAVECCHIA ORTE
• nearby Switzerland, with express trains zip-
•• •
PLOCE

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ADRIATIC SEA
•
1hr s
7 hr ping under the Alps thru some of the worldʼs
• •
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from Milan to Tirano, to connect with the
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SARDINIA O TERMOLI
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14

(ITALY)
Bernina Express which will take you up and
• •••
FOGGIA
CAGLIARI over the spectacular Alps.
NAPLES
Lake Maggiore and Lake Como, both
•
POMPEII

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CAPRI BARI to one hour north of Milan on main rail lines
•
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TO

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(15 hrs) between Italy and northern Europe, are good
EN

TYRRHENIAN SEA
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stopovers when going north or south. Catch
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SAPRI BRINDISI boats at Stresa to visit three of Maggioreʼs

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MEDITERRANEAN islands: Bella, with its Borromeo Palace and

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magnificent terraced gardens; Pescatori, an
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•
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• •
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Bus Routes
CA
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sure to wander Comoʼs timeworn cobbled
•
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streets and visit its Cathedral. Enjoy fjord-like
ITALY
AC to MESSINA (35 mins)
Sea Routes US
A
Cable Car
SIRACUSA to MAL
(4 hrs)
TA Lake Garda by boating to its cute resorts,
€

especially fairy-tale Sirmione, with its nifty

castle and remarkable Roman ruins (1 hr from
is missing. The best months are April, May, Milan to the lakeʼs railheads: Desenzano or
ITALY June and September — the weather is de- Peschiera). Worth a look are Parma (90 mins
lightful and the crowds are smaller. from Milan), with its sweet pink-and-white
Although much of Europe is quite modern,
Trains: Italy has improved its rail sys- Baptistry, Cathedral, and the amazing re-
not so in Italy. Even though the country has
tem greatly in recent years. Eurostar Italia created wooden Farnese Theater, or the Pavia
prospered greatly in recent years, its cities
(ES) trains are among the fastest and most Monastery, an art treasure inside and out (rail
still retain an ancient look — much more so
comfortable weʼve seen in Europe. Eurostar to Pavia, 40 mins, then bus 5 miles).
than Northern Europe. Although the major
tourist draws — Rome, Venice and Florence
— get all the attention, there are many other Milan to Switzerland via the Bernina Express
beautiful Italian towns. If the tourist crowds This is one of Europeʼs most scenic train trips. Unlike the main line, this narrow-gauge
in Venice or Florence get to you, escape line climbs over the Alps instead of tunneling thru them. The train climbs steeply to
to one of the other towns — you wonʼt be 7,405 feet, making it the highest railpass-valid line in Europe. Beginning in Tirano (3 hrs
disappointed. A trip to Italy is unique — in by train from Milan via Sondrio), the Bernina Express will take you over a high moun-
many ways, more the Europe of your dreams tain pass (Bernina Pass), where the immense Morteratsch Glacier seems to reach almost to
than other spots. the tracks, before arriving at St. Moritz in Switzerland (2 1/2 hrs from Tirano). As trains
Avoid July or August if at all possible as run hourly in summer, itʼs easy to get off and hike before catching another train; a popular
trains are crowded in both classes and the walk goes between the Alp Grüm and Ospizio Bernina rail stations. St. Moritz makes a
weather is stifling with many days in the pleasant stay or you can continue to Chur, where you re-join the main-line Swiss network
humid 90s. August is also the time of the for fast connections to anywhere in the country.
annual month-long vacation when much If you have time — donʼt miss the Bernina Express. If lucky, youʼll find space in one of
of Italy (apart from Rome, Florence and the open-air cars for a thrill ride thru the rugged snowcapped Alps. We know of no other
Venice) is completely “shuttered.” Hotels more scenic mountain train trip that is free with Eurail (without a railpass: $112/1st cl.;
and tourist sights are open, but the normally $76/2nd cl.). Most similar private mountain rail lines are costly and not free with Eurail.
bustling and lively character of the towns

Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com ! Budget Europe Travel Service 15

 Trento and Bolzano, on the rail route
to Austria or Munich, are nice stops often
ignored by tourists. Here Italian and Aus-
trian cultures meet, with Bolzano reflecting
Germanic values more than Italian as most
people here are of Tyrolean ancestry; in fact,
German is still the predominate language.
Merano (40 mins by train from Bolzano), a
small photogenic alpine resort, is a prime ex-
ample of the Italian Tyrol at its best. Another
tiny mountain delight, Cortina dʼAmpezzo
nestles below the towering Dolomites (3 hrs
from Padua by rail to Calalzo, then 1 hr by
bus). The mountain backdrops make these
towns a pleasant respite from more famous
but crowded Italian towns. From both Mer-
ano and Cortina, an option is to bus north to
railheads to connect with trains to Innsbruck
(Merano–Landeck; Cortina–Dobbiaco).
Genoa, besides having an area of opulent
palaces, is Italyʼs largest port and has an
intriguing (albeit a bit seedy) sailorsʼ quarter.
Featuring incredibly tiny alleys crisscross-
ing one another in a byzantine maze, this
old quarter, with nearly 200 churches, seems
untouched since the Middle Ages.
The Cinque Terre
The Cinque Terre, near La Spezia on the
Italian Riviera di Levante, offers a string of
five picture-perfect seaside villages:
Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Ver-
nazza and Monterosso. Each town has a
train station; but as they are only a few
miles apart, take the scenic footpaths that
wind along the rugged coast from one vil-
lage to another. Everyone can enjoy, at least,
a part of this idyllic walk, as the one-mile
stretch between Riomaggiore and Manarola
is easy; and the views of the glistening sea
are as romantic as your eyes will ever see.
Verona, 90 minutes from Venice by rail, is
well worth a visit. The medieval town around
the nearly intact Roman Arena exudes old-
world charm — many grand churches and
buildings next to colorful outdoor markets
within a maze of narrow streets. The Verona
Opera Festival in July and August offers
nightly outdoor performances held in the Ro-
man Arena; Shakespearean plays are staged
in the ancient Roman Theater.
Venice — thereʼs no place like it in the
world! If going to Italy donʼt miss this unique
city built on wooden piles with canals for its
highways and gondolas for its cars. Actually,
the famed gondolas are beyond the reach of
budget travelers, and most use the vaporetti
(water buses) which ply the canals — take
them to see Venice as itʼs best seen — from
the water. Venice attracts far too many tour-
ists; but if you can escape the tourist hubbub,
youʼll be rewarded by an unspoiled Venice
unchanged in hundreds of years. Avoid the
steady line of tourists trekking straight from
the train station to St. Markʼs Square to
view its famous Basilica. Instead, sneak
up on it via any of the small lanes thru the
residential areas, and youʼll love Venice. Or
16 Budget Europe Travel Service
take a vaporetto to one of the less-touristed
outer islands such as Burano, noted for its
lace making, or Murano, famous for its
handblown glass, which visitors can watch
being crafted at one of the island factories.
Venetian glass is expensive, so donʼt drop
any! Venetian nights intensify the cityʼs
romantic aura. The ubiquitous Venetian string
quartets play nightly in St. Markʼs Square,
which is lined with outdoor cafés. A problem
in Venice is that itʼs flooding more and more
often, especially in fall and winter, when
itʼs not unusual to have to walk around on
special catwalks! Easy rail day trips go to
Padua (30 mins), with its famous Basilica,
numerous Renaissance buildings and count-
less treasured frescoes, or to Vicenza (1 hr),
notable for its Palladian-style architecture and
superb re-created Olympic Theater.
CENTRAL ITALY
Pisa, one hour from Florence, is a beauti-
ful, unspoiled city — with, of course, the
Leaning Tower. Besides gawking at the
amazing tower (and the magnificent Ca-
thedral and Baptistry next to it), make sure
you walk thru the maze of intimate alleys
and markets in the old town center. Walled
Lucca (20 mins from Pisa) is a bastion of
medieval Italian architecture, with some
60 Romanesque churches to wow you.
Bologna boasts an arcaded city center that
many call Europeʼs best-preserved medieval
town. And its university, the oldest in Eu-
rope, adds pizzazz to this lovely town.
Florence, justly one of the worldʼs most
famous tourist cities and a veritable open-
air museum of the Renaissance, is a totally
unique donʼt-miss gem. The townʼs focus
centers around its Duomo, a wondrous
multicolored-marble cathedral topped by a gi-
gantic octagonal dome — climb the 464 steps
to its top for a great view. The nearby world-
renowned Uffizi Museum is stuffed with Ren-
aissance masterpieces, and the neighboring
unique Ponte Vecchio is a medieval bridge
lined with jewelersʼ shops. Michelangeloʼs
David statue and a number of his other works
are housed in the Accademia. Other major
sights include the Bargello Palace and
Museum; San Marco Museum, in a former
monastery, featuring Fra Angelico frescoes;
Medici Palace, with a stunning chapel; Pitti
Palace, and its fine Palatine Gallery; and the
splendid churches of San Lorenzo (and the
nearby Medici Chapel), and Santa Croce,
where Michelangelo, Galileo and other lumi-
naries are entombed (donʼt miss the leather
artisans and their shops in the back hallways).
Trek up to the Piazzale Michelangelo for a
view overlooking Florenceʼs sea of burnt-
sienna roofs far below, and wander the an-
cient narrow streets of the Oltrarno district
across the Arno River. Shoppers will enjoy
Florenceʼs leather markets and droves of
fashionable boutiques.
Siena is exceptional. Old walls connect-
ing medieval watchtowers still encircle this
ancient-looking city. Its Cathedral and town
To Order, Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
square are every bit as impressive as Flor-
enceʼs. Palio, on July 2 and August 16, is a
citywide celebration featuring a wild horse
race with bareback riders in the town center.
San Gimignano is a dreamy-looking
small town often called the best-preserved
medieval town in Tuscany — the area
around Florence and Siena. San Gimignano
is famous for its tall sentinel towers built
by nobles during a period of civil war in
the Middle Ages (72 were built and 14 still
remain). (From Florence, rail to Poggibonsi,
1 hr; then by bus, 20 mins.) To taste yet
another proverbial ancient Tuscan hill town,
head to Montepulciano. (From Florence, rail
to Chiusi, 90 mins; then by bus, 80 mins.)
Perugia, Assisi and Arezzo are historic
hill towns each worth a stop. Situated be-
tween Florence and Rome, they are easy day
trips by train from either. Arezzo is the least
touristed; Perugia plays host to thousands
of foreigners studying Italian each summer
— the town comes alive at night. Gubbio,
Todi, Spoleto and Spello are Umbrian hill
towns par excellence, all easy to visit by rail
or bus.
Rome, with its plethora of diverse major
sights, demands at least three days. The
Vatican itself with the Sistine Chapel and
St. Peterʼs Basilica will claim most of a day.
(Note: The Vatican strictly enforces a con-
servative dress code — no shorts, short skirts
or bare shoulders.) Simply overpowering are
the Michelangelos in the Sistine Chapel; the
frescoes are even more stunning since their
recent restorations. Youʼll also want to see
the Roman antiquities: the Colosseum, Fo-
rum and Pantheon. And then there are the
Catacombs — eerie underground Christian
cemeteries dating from the second century.
(Of the 51 known catacombs, San Callisto
and San Sebastiano are among the most im-
pressive.) But the joy of Rome is not just its
imposing sights, for this is also a fun town,
especially at night when venues such as the
Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps and the
Trevi Fountain (toss a coin in, over your
shoulder, to assure your return to Rome) are
mobbed with strollers. Trastevere, across
the Tiber, is a pleasant restaurant and pizzeria
ghetto. And Rome is a shopperʼs paradise —
the area near the bottom of the Spanish Steps
is one of the swankiest: the Via Condotti is
lined with many fashionable shops. When
you glimpse the Roman meter maids dressed
in top fashions, youʼll understand how seri-
ous fashion is taken here.
Day Trips From Rome: Orvieto (1 hr) is
a hill town famed for the multihued façade
of its Cathedral; Hadrianʼs Villa (45 mins
by bus) is one of Italyʼs most intriguing
archaeological sites; Tivoli (1 hr) is home
to the Villa dʼEste with its medley of splish-
splashing fountains; Ostia Antica (30 mins)
was the port of ancient Rome and today is a
colossal archaeological site.
Naples, 70 minutes south of Rome, has a
flavor unlike other Italian towns. But poverty,
slums and congestion (Europeʼs most densely
populated city) counter its charms — for most
it will be more enjoyable to stay at a nearby
smaller town such as seaside Sorrento while
exploring the amazing ruins at Pompeii and
Herculaneum or climbing Mt. Vesuvius
— the volcano that buried the former cities
under tons of mud and lava centuries ago. A
cinder path circles up to the crater rim where
you can peer into the smoldering behemoth.
Also from Sorrento, be sure to take the hair-
raising bus ride on the cliff-hugging road
along the dramatic Amalfi Coast. Stops worth
making are at Positano, Amalfi and Ravello.
Capri with its famous Blue Grotto is also a
must visit (30 mins from Sorrento via ferry).
Paestum (90 mins south of Naples) is the site
of three well-preserved Greek temples.
THE ADRIATIC COAST
Look elsewhere for your beach vacation as
the waters here are sadly polluted.
Rimini is a large resort catering to hordes
of Europeans each summer. Though it has
a fine beach, come here for pulsating night-
life. Nearby Ravenna is noteworthy for its
glittering mosaics (1 hr north of Rimini by
train). Urbino, a walled hill town, is famous
for its Ducal Palace (train to Pesaro, 30 mins
south of Rimini, then 1 hr by bus).
San Marino, the worldʼs oldest independ-
ent republic, sits remotely in the Apennine
Mountains (1 hr by bus from Rimini). Itʼs
well worth a look to see the tremendous pano-
ramas of the hilly countryside as it slopes
away to the Adriatic Coast. The main city,
oozing medieval charm, is perched on rocky
pinnacles topped by imposing forts.
Brindisi, Bari and Ancona are the embar-
kation points for Greece via the ferries that
are free or discounted with Eurail. Bari has
a unique old town close to the port worth a
few hours look. (Italy–Patras: 15-22 hrs by
boat; Patras–Athens: 4 hrs by train. Without
a railpass, boats cost about $90 for deck pas-
sage; $120 for a sleeping chair.)
SOUTHERN ITALY & ISLANDS
Below Rome, Italy lags economically far
behind that of the industrial and wealthy
North. A quasi-peasant lifestyle still clings to
existence. Come here for a Europe that hasnʼt
changed much in the last few hundred years.
Sicily is only a 35-minute ferry ride (free
with railpasses) from the southern tip of
Railpass or Ticket Prices ?
Italy. Palermo is the islandʼs major city with
a plethora of old churches, a Norman pal-
ace, the ghoulish Capuchin Catacombs and
several lively street markets. The Cathedral
at suburban Monreale is a must for its multi-
colored marbles and mosaics. Cefalù (1 hr
from Palermo), a small beach resort, is pictur-
esquely sandwiched between the sea and the
Rocca, a massive rock outcropping. Segesta,
an impressive Greek temple dating from the
fifth century BC, stands silently alone in the
stark countryside (1 hr by car or tour bus
from Palermo; hard to reach by rail, requiring
a one- or two-mile uphill walk on a shoulder-
less road from the nearest stations). The Val-
ley of the Temples at Agrigento is the mother
lode of Greek temples — you can view parts
of nine surviving structures as you walk along
the Sacred Way. Yet more archaeological treas-
ures, especially its cavernous Greek Theater,
can be seen at Syracuse, one of the greatest
of ancient Greek city-states, whose medi-
eval town is uniquely situated on an island.
Taormina, perched on a lofty terrace over-
looking the sea, is worth visiting for its Greek
Theater and wondrous views of the sea and
Mt. Etna, Europeʼs and one of the worldʼs
largest active volcanos. Trains (not free with
railpasses), leaving from Catania or Riposto,
frequently circle the 10,000-foot-high moun-
tain. From Catania you can approach the top
of Etna by first taking a bus, next a cable car
and, finally, a minibus (of course, suspended
during eruptions).
Stromboli, on the Lipari Islands just off
the Sicilian coast, is Europeʼs most active,
regularly erupting volcano. It can be climbed
via cinder trails only on guided tours.
Sardinia, seven hours by boat from main-
land Italy, is nice but not exceptional. The
scenery is similar to central Italy. There are
good beaches though crowded with tourists
and modern high-rise hotels. Eurailpasses are
valid for trains on the island, but not for ferry
passage to the island ($50-85 each way from
Civitavecchia to Olbia on Sardinia).
Malta is way off the beaten path but only
four hours from Syracuse by boat. Life on
this island nation is much different from
Europe, and the beaches are superb. If look-
ing for an exotic locale easily accessible on a
Eurail trip, try Malta.
Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
GREECE
Even though it is far removed from West-
ern Europe, try not to miss Greece with its
unique character, beautiful beaches and strik-
ing archaeological sites. Most of all, youʼll
appreciate its lower prices.
Trains: Though Greece has useful train
lines allowing you to see several different
regions, service is not on par with the rest
of Europe. Yet taking the intercity and lo-
cal trains will give you a glimpse of Greece
outside the usual tourist bounds. See www.
budgeteuropetravel.com for details and
prices of all railpasses valid in Greece.
Getting There: If not flying into Greece,
you will probably come by overnight
ferry from Italy. Deck passage on selected
boats crossing from Brindisi, Bari or An-
cona to Igoumenitsa or Patras is free with
Eurailpasses valid in Greece and Italy, but
you must pay a $10 port tax all year, a sur-
charge ($15 in June and September; $30 in
July and August), and for any sleeping ac-
commodations if desired. Once you land in
Greece at Patras, you can travel by train to
Athens or, better, train around the Pelopon-
nese to take in some of the better classical
sites before ending up in Athens. From
Athens you can return to Patras direct or via
Delphi and if you have more time, go north
from Delphi to the Meteora Monasteries and
then by bus ($30) to Igoumenitsa to catch
the “Eurail” ferry back to Italy. And donʼt
forget to allot a few days for enjoying one or
more of the Greek islands. Even if you donʼt
use your railpass much in Greece, the fact
that it gets you there and back from Western
Europe is a great travel bargain afforded by
your Eurailpass (saving about a $100 each
way with any railpass valid in Greece and
Italy; holders of either the Greece or Italy
pass get 30% off the fare on certain boats).
“Itʼs Greek to You”
Although the Greek alphabet is com-
pletely different from ours, you will
encounter few language problems here.
Many Greeks speak “tourist” English, and
most tourist information and maps include
both English and Greek alphabet versions.
Budget Europe Travel Service 17
 Corfu (Kerkyra), where some boats stop ROMANIA
•
SOFIA to

€
•

€
€
BUCHAREST
on their cruise between Greece and Italy, of- to VARNA

•
BELGRADE LAPOVO (11 hrs)

fers those on a budget the lures of a tropical ATHENS to BELGRADE (21 hrs) GORNA
BLACK

IA
ORJAHOVITZA
paradise. Mopeds, which are easily rented, ATHENS to VIENNA (29 hrs)

•
SEA
••
POZEGA ATHENS to MUNICH (35 hrs) KAR
N OBA
are the favored way of getting around the
•

BOSN
T

•
TULOVO

• •
island. Snorkeling, cliff-diving, windsurfing NIS
SOFIA ORA
BURGAS
ZAG

YUGOSLAVIA• • •
PLOVDIV STARA
RAD
and other water sports are all popular here. LESKOVAC

BULGARIA • • TURKEY
ENG
SVIL

••
ISTANB
•
DIMITROVGRAD EDIRNE
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CENTRAL GREECE KOSOVO HAYDARPASA

• ••
POLJE AL PIT
DUBROVNIK EX HIO
Athens can be uninviting in summer due to AN

•
N

• •
DR
SKOPJE OP
the torrid heat and suffocating auto pollution.
•
UZUNKÖPRÜ

•
BAR OL
IS

•
SHKODER XANTHI
Besides devastating the summer traveler, the
•
MACEDONIA BANDIRMA
smog has had a terrible effect on the ruins STRIMON

••
TIRANA
of classical Athens. Yet lively, thunderous DU
• •
THESSALONIKI

•
RR
Athens exudes an inexplicable charm. The
•
ES BALIKESIR
ADRIATIC FLORINA

many hectic markets, suave sidewalk cafés at SEA POGRADEC

ALBANIA
Syntagma Square, the delightful night area
in the Plaka with its many bouzouki bars •
BRINDISI • • KAL
KOZANI

ME
TURKEY VO
LESBOS

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• • • •• •
AM TEO

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(where traditional Greek music is played),
•
MANISA
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as well as the impressive ruins such as the SEA PALEOPHARSALOS IZMIR
Y
Agora (the administrative center and market- CORFU
IGOUMENITSA
CHIOS

• ••• •
place of classical Athens) and the Acropolis BRINDISI
BRINDISI
CORFU
CORFU (8.5
to to
(7 hrs) hrs)
DE
LP
HI LEVADI
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IKAR SAMOS
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(with the Parthenon and three other edifices PATRAS
PATRAS (17 hrs)
(13-19 hrs) ANTIRIO ITEA A

•
M
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ATHENS BO
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from the Golden Age of Greece on it) make IONIAN

• •• • •
DIAKOFTO
TINOS
SEA PIRAEUS MYKONOS
Athens a unique world city not to be missed.

•• •
PATRAS CORINTH DELOS
Athensʼ National Archaeological Museum Main KALAVRITA
MYCENAE NAXOS KOS
preserves many of the pieces of the ancient Rail Lines OLYMPIA PAROS PIRAEUS to
PYRGOS RHODES
Secondary
• ••
IOS
ruins, such as the treasures of the tombs of Rail Lines KALAMATA
SPARTA (20 hrs)

RHODES
the Mycenae, including the famous Death MISTRA MILOS

PIRHANIA s)
Bus Routes SANT ORINI

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(11
Mask of Agamemnon.

PI ERA 1.5
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Sea Routes

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There is regular

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Daphni, 30 minutes by bus from Athens,

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to
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offers its famous Monastery with its elabo-

HA
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•
the Greek Islands.
PATRAS to HE

NI
GREECE ••
HERAKLION
rate mosaics and huge Byzantine dome, plus

A
(22-23 hrs)

a nightly wine festival from mid-July thru
early September. A small fee admits you to a
wooded park and unlimited tastings of many
Greek wines. Souvlaki (grilled meats served
in pita bread) and other foods are extra, but
the performing bouzouki musicians and folk-
dance troupes are free.
The Elgin Marbles
In 1801 the Elgin Marbles, the Par-
thenonʼs famous frieze, were sold to a
British man (Elgin) by the Turks, and
removed to Britain. They were later sold
by Elgin to the British Museum where
they remain today! Greece vigorously de-
mands their return, but to no avail so far.
Delphi, four hours from Athens, was
considered the center of the Earth by the
ancient Greeks. The Doric Temple of Apollo
(which housed the famed Delphic Oracle),
a stadium, theater and other ruins are set in
an austere but beautiful mountainous region
overlooking the Gulf of Corinth. To reach
Delphi, train to Levadia where you transfer
to a bus ($5); or take a direct bus from Ath-
ens ($20). If heading north, you can return to
the station at Levadia and train to Kalambaka
Rail Is Our Specialty !
Before Buying Any Railpass,
Call BETS and Make Sure You
Have the Best Pass for You !
1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413
Mon–Fri 9am–5pm (Eastern)
18 Budget Europe Travel Service
•
OMALOS KION
A SFA
CHOR CRETE
and the Meteora Monasteries. If you wish to thru the Taigetos Mountains to Sparta (al-
go to Patras: bus to Antirio, ferry to Rio and most nothing remains of ancient Sparta) and
bus to Patras (total time: 5 hrs). then to Mistra, three miles from Sparta.
Olympia, home of the ancient Olympic
S. GREECE (THE PELOPONNESE) Games, is impressive. See the outstanding
The Peloponnese is the peninsula southwest museum; the Olympic Stadium; and the
of Athens which offers many of the countryʼs Temple of Hera where the ancient Olympic
foremost archaeological sites as well as mar- Flame was housed. Today when the Games
velous coastal and rugged mountain scenery. are to be held, the sacred flame is relit here
Many of the best classical Greek ruins are and carried by torchbearers to the host site.
easily accessible from the main circular train
line which offers good service from both NORTHERN GREECE
Patras and Athens. If coming to Greece by Thessaloniki, Greeceʼs second largest city,
boat from Italy, youʼll arrive in the Pelopon- is a convenient stop on the way to Turkey or,
nese at Patras, four hours from Athens. if heading north, to central or eastern Europe.
Corinth, two hours from Athens, was one
of the most important Greek cities during the The Kalavrita Railway
Golden Age, but was leveled in 146 BC by The Kalavrita Railway is justly included
invading Roman legions and remained un- in our list of Europeʼs top scenic train rides.
inhabited for a 100 years until Julius Caesar From Diakofto, near Patras on the main
constructed a Roman city on the site. Todayʼs line to Athens, this tiny rack-and-pinion
striking ruins at “Old Corinth” are largely railway rises 2,300 feet in 14 miles as it tra-
Roman, except for the impressive Greek verses the spectacular gorge of the Vourai-
Temple of Apollo. kos River to Kalavrita. Get off the train
Mycenae, south of Corinth, is Agamem- on the return journey at Zahlorou to walk
nonʼs citadel city of Homerʼs epic poems and down to Diakofto thru the gorge in a lei-
once the center of the great Mycenaean civi- surely three hours. Near Zahlorou (45 mins
lization. The impressive ruins date back to away by foot or donkey) is the Monastery
1500 BC — often said to be the most impor- of Mega Spileo (Great Cave) which attracts
tant archaeological find in modern times. many pilgrims; only men can stay over-
night here. If you canʼt get to Crete to hike
Mistra is the fascinating site of an aban-
the Samaria Gorge, youʼll find this gorge as
doned and once-powerful Byzantine town impressive and a lot less touristy. (Several
with intact 14th-century buildings. To get
departures daily; 1 hr each way.)
there, take a beautiful bus ride from Kalamata
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
This historic but modern megalopolis offers
some of the worldʼs best examples of Byzan-
tine art and architecture — including Agios
Dimitrios, the largest church in Greece, with
its famous fifth-century mosaics. It also has
one of Greeceʼs finest archaeological mu-
seums and many Roman ruins.
Meteora and its “hanging” Monasteries,
built atop craggy pinnacles on the edge of
the Thessalian Plain, is a magnificent sight.
During religious persecutions in the Middle
Ages, monks built refuges on 24 pinnacles,
some of which soar hundreds of feet above
the plain. Until recently some of the Monas-
teries were only accessible by baskets raised
by ropes and pulleys, or by precarious lad-
ders. Steep stairs are now used to reach the
few remaining Monasteries open for visits.
Meteora is a few miles by bus or foot from
Kalambaka, a lively market town and a
good overnight stop (5-7 hrs by train or bus
from Athens).
Meteora to Igoumenitsa and Italy
Instead of returning to the train at Kalam-
baka, you can continue by bus thru the
rugged mountains of the Epirus Region to
Igoumenitsa where you can catch the
“Eurail” boats to Corfu and Italy. Although
there are some harrowing mountain roads,
the bus ride is exceptionally panoramic.
The area around Metsovo is dubbed the
“Greek Switzerland” due to its alpine
look. A good stopover en route is Ioannina,
still circled by ramparts built in the Middle
Ages. (130 miles; $30; Kalambaka to
Igoumenitsa: 5 hrs.)
THE GREEK ISLANDS
Many people go to Greece only to experi-
ence the wonders of the many islands. The
more popular party islands such as Mykonos,
Santorini, Paros or Ios are several hours
and about $40 ($60 fast ferry) away from
Piraeus, Athensʼ port from ancient times.
To save time when going to the islands, use
one of the many night boats or fly; Olympic
Airways offers economical flights to many of
the islands. The best-known islands are over-
crowded in July and August. In the past the
Greek government has offered free boats to
some of the less popular islands, in an effort
to distribute the tourist crush more evenly.
Mykonos, the most popular of the party
islands, offers splendid beaches and non-
stop nightlife with hundreds of clubs. Itʼs
renowned for its Paradise Beach, Europeʼs
most famous nude beach, as well as its
gay counterpart, Super Paradise Beach.
Boats to Turkey
From Lesbos, Chios, Samos, Kos and
Rhodes, you can catch boats to Turkey
($35-75). But these are subject to inter-
ruptions due to the volatile state of Greek-
Turkish political relations.
BETS: The Rail Experts
� 800-441-9413 or 800-441-2387 � of seating. Overnight trains are available
To Order, Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
The Samaria Gorge
The Samaria Gorge, in southern Crete,
offers one of the best hikes in Europe along
its narrow ten-mile ravine. Catch an early
bus from Hania (on the northern coast) to
Omalos where the trail begins. Enjoy a lei-
surely hike, due to the gradual 2,000-foot
descent, thru the spectacularly “gorgeous”
gorge until you emerge at the sea and a fine
beach. From there, you can catch a boat
back to civilization — to Chora Sfakion
(1 hr), and then bus back to Hania.
Mykonos has long been known as Europeʼs
premier gay vacation spot, though many
vacationers are not gay. Many tourists come
just to see the extraordinary ruins at Delos, a
small uninhabited island only 30 minutes by
boat from Mykonos. The legendary birthplace
of twins Apollo and Artemis, Delos has some
of the most extensive and interesting ruins in
Greece, including the Sanctuary of Apollo
and the famous Terrace of the Delian Lions.
Crete, much larger than the other Greek
islands, has a “South Seas paradise” look.
Crete offers not only heavenly scenery, but
also a host of Minoan civilization ruins and
a quasi-peasant lifestyle no longer found on
many islands. Time may not have stopped,
but it moves slowly in Crete.
The Dalmatian Coast
The Dalmatian Coast is once again
drawing sizable numbers of tourists, and
taking a cruise along the island-strewn
coast is a good way to visit Croatia, part
of the former Yugoslavia. Boats start-
ing at Rijeka make stops at Zadar,
Split, Hvar, Korcula and Dubrovnik,
all of which are difficult or impossible
to get to by train. Highlights en route
are Split, locale of the Roman Emperor
Diocletianʼs Palace and today a signifi-
cant archaeological site; Hvar, offering
extreme beauty and a medieval Venetian-
style village; Korcula, with Marco Poloʼs
House, purportedly the explorerʼs birth-
place; and Dubrovnik, pictured on many
travel posters, a unique walled port city
of unusual beauty and, justifiably, called
the Pearl of the Adriatic. (Boats: Rijeka
to Dubrovnik, nearly daily during the
summer; 17-22 hrs nonstop; $50 for deck
passage. From Dubrovnik there are 1-3
ferries each week to Bari, Italy; 7-10 hrs.)
SCANDINAVIA
Itʼs a joy to travel in Scandinavia as nearly
everyone speaks fluent English, trains are su-
perb, cities spic-and-span and there is never
a tourist crush.
Trains provide a comfortable way to travel
to the major tourist destinations in all four
Scandinavian countries. Intercity express
trains are frequent and punctual; however,
seat reservations are often mandatory. In
Norway most trains have only one class
on most long-distance routes, and sleeping
accommodations are available at affordable
prices. In light of steep fares and long train
rides, railpasses pay off quickly in Scandi-
navia. The Scandinavia, Eurail Global and
Eurail Select passes give unlimited train
travel in Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Fin-
land, plus discounts, usually 50%, on many
ferry crossings; also each Scandinavian
country offers its own railpass; and Sweden
partners with each of the other three in a
two-country combination (all are available
from BETS; see www.budgeteuropetravel.
com or call BETS for details and prices).
DENMARK
Copenhagen can be encompassed into
even the shortest of Eurail trips if youʼre
pressed for time and want a quick taste of
Scandinavia. Famous not only for Tivoli,
Europeʼs most well-known amusement park,
and the Little Mermaid, a bronze sculpture
in the harbor, Copenhagen is one of Europeʼs
nicest strolling cities with many parks and
pedestrian shopping streets. The city is also
known as one of Europeʼs great nightlife
spots. Europeʼs self-acclaimed jazz center,
the city offers all types of live music in its
many pubs and clubs. During the Copenhag-
en Jazz Festival in early July, thousands of
people jam squares, streets, theaters, and jazz
clubs to hear some of the greatest jazz stars
in the world. Becoming very popular with
tourists is the free city of Christiania, per-
haps the most successful of the few surviving
early 70s communes in the world. And the
Carlsberg brewery tour is another fun way
to fill a half-day. But if youʼre a beer drinker,
you may wish to plan an additional half-day
to recuperate from the copious tastings.
Day Trips From Copenhagen: Use the
great suburban train system (S-trains), free
with Eurail/Scandinavia passes, to day-trip to
any of several interesting sights. Helsingør
(Elsinore), 55 minutes north of Copenhagen,
is the site of Kronborg Castle, the legend-
ary home of Shakespeareʼs Hamlet. Helsin-
gør is also a good gateway to or from Swe-
den. Humlebæk, south of Helsingør, has the
Louisiana Museum of Contemporary Art
and Statue Park, one of the best in Europe.
Also near Helsingør is Hillerød, with its
superb Frederiksborg Castle. Set on an
Budget Europe Travel Service 19
island in a lake, itʼs called the best Renais-
NORWAY •
NAR VIK

€
€
sance building in Denmark. If not in a hurry, to
KIRKENES NA
to
RV HAMMERFEST ,
rent a bike in Helsingør and cycle six scenic
SWEDEN
(3 days) IK
KIRKENES &
miles along the coast to the Louisiana Mu-
•
MURMANSK

•
KEMIJÄRVI
RUSSIA
seum at Humlebæk. As the Danish, along
with the Dutch, are Europeʼs most enthusias-
FINLAND •BODØ
GÄLLIVARE

• ROVANIEMI

DENMARK CIRCLE

• • •
tic bikers, the country has many bike paths. ARCTIC HAPARANDA
KEMI

(Few train stations rent bikes, but many BODEN

tourist offices and bike shops do.) Main

ARVIDSJAUR
• •
FINLAND
•
OULU
Roskilde, 20 minutes from Copenhagen, Rail Lines KONTIOMÄKI

was the Danish capital for 500 years. The Secondary STORUMAN
•
•
G

•
Rail Lines

• •
ON
traditional burial place of Danish royalty is GR
YLIVIESKA

•
NURMES
here in Roskilde Cathedral, the countryʼs Bus Routes KOKKOLA IISA
LMI

• • •
R
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most famous cathedral. Also there is the Sea Routes STE
IN
KUOPIO
JOENSUU

Viking Ship Museum exhibiting five vessels

• • • • • •
VAASA PIEK
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that sank here nearly 1,000 years ago. The ÖSTERSUND s JYVÄSKYLÄ

•
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8

• ••
STØREN TR HELL
Roskilde Festival, held in early July, is one ON PARIKKALA

•
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•
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•
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of Europeʼs biggest rock festivals. ÅNGE
ORIVESI

•• • ••
SUNDSVALL

• •
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Bakken, over 400 years old, is Europeʼs SWEDEN TAMPERE KOUV
OLA

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oldest amusement park. It offers everything PORI NIK
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• • •• •
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that Tivoli does (concerts, dance halls,
•
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shows, rides, fireworks) without an admis-

EL
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sion charge and, unlike Tivoli, is not full of VOSS GOL L E 10
4h
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tourists (30 mins from Copenhagen).
••
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CHARLOTTENBERG TALLINN
Frederikshavn is an excellent gateway to 14 hrs

ST.
ESTONIA ERG RUSSIA
Norway or Sweden. The three-hour ferry to NOR W AY
•
SB
HALL
STOCKHOLM
Gothenburg in Sweden is 20% off with • LAXÅ

Eurail/Scan passes (without a pass: $30-60 • STAVANGER

• • LATVIA
one way). Good train connections exist from
• KRISTIANSAND FALKÖPING MJÖLBY

•• • •
N

• • •
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HA
Frederikshavn to Germany via Århus. 4.5 hr hrs GÖTEBORG NÄSSJÖ
OS
KA
RS

•
s 2-3 in HELSINGBORG
LE
JE 25 m
Århus, three hours from Frederikshavn
•
HIRTSHALS LE
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NOR TH TA

•
S ALVESTA GOTLAND

• •
and two and one-half hours from Copenhag- LM

• HA
ÅLBORG
SEA OLM

• • •
EH HUMLEBÆK
SSL
en, is Denmarkʼs foremost university town. It HÄ
ÖLAND

• • •• •
HELSINGBORG HILLERØD
DEN-
• •
REBILD
offers the Museum of Prehistory at subur- STRUER
KARLSKRONA
DENMARK

•
ÅRHUS HELSINGØR LUND
MARK€
ban Moesgård with its 2,000-year-old Grau-
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balle “bogman,” a corpse found in the nearby C BAL TIC TR

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bogs (mummified by the indigenous tannic NH
ODENSE OR

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PADBORG G COPENHAGEN
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•
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45
acid). Be sure to take a walk thru time on the
•
4 hrs
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m
FLENSBURG EN

in
Prehistoric Trackway near the museum, an
•
•€• GERMANY POLAND
PUTTGARDEN E
ROSKILD

•
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avenue of reconstructed pre-Viking settle- LÜBECK to
€

HAMBURG MALMÖ
BERLIN
ments. A popular sight in Århus is the Den COPENHAGEN

Gamle By (old town), a restored village with

to BERLIN (7.5 hrs)

16th- thru 19th-century buildings removed
from their original sites and rebuilt here.
During the Århus Festival in early Septem-
ber, the whole town is alive with jazz, classi-
cal music, street musicians, drama and po-
etry readings. One of the most popular
festivals in Europe, it is especially a magnet
for young people.
Rebild hosts the largest Fourth of July
celebration outside the U.S. at the Danish-
American Emigration Museum, a log cabin
built with logs from every state. Many
Danish-Americans originally came from this
area. Rebild is two miles from the Skørping
stop on the Århus–Frederikshavn rail line.
A Day Trip to Sweden
From Copenhagen, train to Helsingør,
catch the ferry to Helsingborg in Sweden
(25 mins; free with Eurail/Scan passes),
and then rail to Lund, a lively university
town with oodles of charm and a magnifi-
cent Romanesque cathedral. Rail back to
Copenhagen via Malmö, a large city with
a nice old quarter. (Or skip the loop, and
just day-trip to Lund from Copenhagen.)
20 Budget Europe Travel Service
“Legoland,” with its mini-town built of
Lego toy blocks including a harbor with The Oslo–Bergen Railway
model ships, a lilliputian railway and Tita- For outstanding views of Norwayʼs
niaʼs Palace (“the worldʼs most expensive mountains, glaciers, fjords and tundra, take
doll house”), is not on a rail line but is a the Bergen Line, often called Europeʼs
short bus ride from Vejle, south of Århus, to most scenic train line, on its seven-hour
the small town of Billund. run between Oslo and Bergen. At Myrdal
be sure to take the Flåm Line which
plunges dramatically 12 miles to Flåm and
NORWAY Norwayʼs longest fjord. The train makes
“photo” stops at waterfalls and other sights
Osloʼs sights will occupy only a day or along the way. The Bergen Line is free
two for most — make a short stop here on with railpasses, and the Flåm Line is
your way to or from Bergen via the dramatic 30% off (Oslo–Bergen r.t.: $330; Myrdal–
Oslo–Bergen train line. The Viking Ship Flåm r.t.: $92). Trains are timed so that you
House, displaying several ninth-century can easily include the Myrdal–Flåm detour
vessels from the Viking heyday, is the main in a dayʼs journey from Oslo to Bergen.
attraction. Thor Heyerdahlʼs Kon-Tiki, Ra I Alternatively, you could go straight to
and Ra II ships are housed in their own Bergen, leaving time to see Bergenʼs in-
museum near the Viking Ships. Many also triguing medieval wharf area, and then the
enjoy one of Europeʼs outstanding statue next day take the fantabulous and easy Nor-
parks, the Vigeland Sculpture Park — with way in a Nutshell excursion which includes
the Flåm Line and a breathtaking fjord boat
its 150 groups of life-size works, depicting
ride. From Bergen, train to Voss, bus to Gud-
humans from toddlers to the aged. For a vangen, boat to Flåm, train to Myrdal, and
pleasurable outing in the Oslo suburbs, go to rail back to Bergen or on to Oslo; all connec-
the Holmenkollen Ski Jump situated in a tions are easy. From Bergen, you could also
lovely forested area with dramatic views of take a boat directly to Flåm.
Oslo and the fjord below.
To Order: Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
 Bergen to Stavanger by boat is an alterna-
tive way to connect with another scenic rail
route back to Oslo (boat: $120; not free with
Eurail/Scan passes; 4-5 hrs). Stavanger, the
main oil depot for North Sea crude, has few
tourist attractions; but worthy of a gander are
the Cathedral, old quarter and fish market.
Narvik is Europeʼs northernmost outpost
accessible by train. To reach it requires a
great deal of time and crossing the Arctic
Circle — itʼs 1,000 miles from Oslo to Nar-
vik! Narvik is most easily reached from
Stockholm, or Helsinki via Haparanda; nearly
24 hours from either city. If you wish to re-
turn to Oslo via Bodø, you may take a boat
along the rugged coast or ride the Northern
Express Bus to Bodø ($65; not free with
Eurail/Scanrail; 2 daily; 7 hrs) and train from
there to Trondheim. The Nordland Line
from Bodø to Trondheim is especially lovely.
The Midnight Sun shines from late April
to mid-July in northern Scandinavia. (In
winter youʼll find several weeks of nearly
total darkness with the noontime moon.) To
reach 24 hours of daylight, youʼll have to
approach the Arctic Circle — easily done
with a Eurailpass or Scandinavia Pass.
North Cape (Nordkapp) boats from Bodø
will take you to the top of Europe — the
North Cape, a windswept 1,000-foot-high
cliff. These boats are expensive, however
(about $200 per day, including meals and the
cheapest sleeping accommodations; from
Bodø, the journey takes three days); and
frequently, rainy or foggy conditions cloak
the beauty of the rugged coast (like riding
the Maid of the Mist at Niagara Falls).
SWEDEN
Stockholm, one of Europeʼs most physi-
cally attractive cities, is uniquely located on
a series of islands. The narrow cobblestone
streets of the Gamla Stan (old town) date
back to medieval times and surround the
18th-century Royal Palace. East of Gamla
Stan is Skeppsholmen, the site of Stock-
holmʼs famous art museums: the National
Museum and the Museum of Modern Art.
Further east is Stockholmʼs recreation island,
Djurgården, where you can visit Skansen,
“Sweden in Miniature,” an open-air museum
showcasing old Swedish buildings, crafts
and folk dance.
Uppsala is Swedenʼs cultural capital and
grand university town with 40,000 students
(1 hr from Stockholm). It offers Scandinaviaʼs
largest cathedral where most Swedish mon-
archs were crowned and are presently interred.
Gothenburg (Göteborg), Swedenʼs second
largest city and Scandinaviaʼs largest port, is
a charming city that has several daily boats
to Frederikshavn in Denmark (3 hrs; 20% off
with Eurail/Scandinavia passes; without a
pass: $30-60 one way). Take one of the Pad-
dan tour boats in Gothenburg for a relaxed
float thru the cityʼs many canals and port.
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
Donʼt miss the Feskekörka (Fish Church)
which appears to be a church from the out-
side but is actually a fish market inside!
The Lapland and Reindeer Lines
Lapland, the far northern region of Scan-
dinavia, inhabited by the nomadic Lapps
who still tend their herds of reindeer, is one
of the worldʼs few remaining isolated fron-
tiers untouched by “modern man.” The best
bet for seeing this unspoiled arctic area is
from one of two scenic train lines. The
“Lapland Line” (Boden–Narvik: 7 hrs;
free with railpasses), built at great cost to
ferry iron ore from the mines of Kiruna
(tours thru the worldʼs largest underground
iron ore mine are available) to the sea,
travels thru pristine alpine countryside. The
“Reindeer Line” (Gällivare–Östersund:
14 hrs; late June to early August; no dis-
counts with railpasses) offers another look
at remote Lapland and its herds of reindeer.
FINLAND
The ferry from Sweden to Finland, dis-
counted with Eurail, is an astounding ride as it
follows the gorgeous coast and an archipelago
of rocky islands much of the way. Night fer-
ries are comfy; and with the long days, you
can still see the scenery. On board youʼll find
many amenities including saunas and a ca-
sino. (Boats: 10-16 hrs; fares start at $65 each
way; 50% off with Eurail/Scandinavia passes.)
Helsinki, under Russian occupation for
nearly 100 years until WWI, has a Russian
look most visible in the onion-domed Russian
Orthodox Church and the early 19th-century
government buildings. Helsinki is famous for
its modern architecture such as the gleaming
white marble Finlandia Hall, designed by the
famous Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, and the
Temppeliaukio Church (known as the “Rock
Church”), which is built into a rocky hill with
only its copper-domed roof visible from the
street. Worth a look itself is the imposing
Central Train Station, constructed by Eliel
Saarinen, another famous Finnish architect.
More old-world is the colorful handicrafts,
fish and vegetable market by the harbor.
Consider stopping at Turku (2 1/2 hrs
from Helsinki by train) on your way back to
Sweden, and then catch the boat to Stock-
holm from there. Turku was the ancient
Finnish capital before the Imperial Russian
conquerors moved it to Helsinki in 1812.
Midsummer Eve is the celebration of
the coming of summer. All of Scandinavia
lets loose with all-night parties, fireworks
and the traditional bonfires stemming from
heathen days when the fires were thought
to scare evil spirits away from the new
crops. The celebration continues the fol-
lowing day, called Midsummer Day —
usually occurs on the Friday and Saturday
nearest Midsummer Eve; check with the
Scandinavian Tourist Board for exact dates.
THE NETHERLANDS
The Netherlands, popularly known as
“Holland,” offers a host of intriguing cities
as well as Amsterdam, one of the worldʼs
unique cities. The Dutch countryside with its
windmills, canals and unending but idyllic
cow pastures is most pleasant.
Train: Dutch trains are excellent, with two
“exactly-on-time” trains per hour between
most cities. Ordinary fares are expensive. If
you are without a Eurail or Eurail Select
railpass, consider the Benelux Flexipass giv-
ing unlimited rail travel in the Benelux, which
includes all of Belgium, Netherlands and
Luxembourg; or the Benelux & Germany
Flexipass or Benelux & France Flexipass,
adding Germany or France to the mix. All
are available from BETS; see our website,
www.budgeteuropetravel.com, or call BETS
for details and prices.
Bikes, rented by most train stations, are a
perfect way to get into the countryside and
do as the Dutch do — ride on the thousands
of miles of bike paths that even have their
own bicycle traffic signals.
Amsterdam is a city of remarkable physi-
cal beauty — it claims to have more canals
than Venice. The city also has gained a
reputation throughout Europe as being a
wide-open, “anything goes” place. But quite
distinct from this counterculture atmosphere
is the fact that Amsterdam is a visual feast
not to be missed. The heart of the old city is
built on wooden piles over a former marsh.
The extensive system of canals were the city
streets of the 17th-century town. Be sure to
take the canal boat tours to fully appreciate
these amazing waterways lined with stately
townhouses. (Or try the small foot-powered
pedalos if you want your own individual
float around town.) And donʼt miss these
highlights: the Rijksmuseum (with paintings
by Dutch Masters including Rembrandtʼs
The Night Watch); the Van Gogh Museum;
the Stedelijk Modern Art Museum; the
Anne Frank House; the Rembrandt House;
and the Maritime (Scheepvaart) Museum.
Museumed out? Then retreat to the peaceful
courtyard of the Begijnhof, or stroll along
the quaint streets and canals of the Jordaan.
At night Amsterdam moves as much as any
place in Europe. Youʼll find one of Europeʼs
densest cluster of pubs, live music and danc-
ing spots in the Leidseplein. Amsterdamʼs
Budget Europe Travel Service 21
sailorsʼ quarter, the Zeedijk, famous for its
legal red light district featuring prostitutes
behind picture windows, has become a
BELGIUM NOR TH
de rigueur tourist sight, sad as that fact may
be. The Zeedijk is also Amsterdamʼs China
NETHERLANDS SEA
• •
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LEEUWARDEN

•
GRONINGEN

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Town, a good place to sample the Dutch-

•
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DEN HELDER STAVOREN

•
Indonesian rijsttafel, a feast of many spicy
•

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• ••••

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meats and concoctions served with rice. ALKMAAR
ENKHUIZEN MEPPEL

• • •AMSTERDAM•• •
Amsterdamʼs Heineken Brewery is closed! VOLE
NDAM
EDAM
ZWOLLE
AMSTERDAM to
Main Rail Lines MARKEN
But the ever-popular tours are still on; the
ZANDVOORT BERLIN

• €
Secondary Rail Lines

•
HA (7.5 hrs)
draw here is not the tour, but the generous AR

•
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•
Bus Routes LE DEVENTER

• •• • •
LEIDEN M
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free quaffing afterwards in the “hospitality” Sea Routes THE HAGUE AMERSFOORT HEN

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room. HOEK VAN HOLLAND LF NATIONAL PARK

THE NETHERLANDS •
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Outside of Amsterdam: Amsterdam
is NOT Holland as many Dutch folk will ENGLISH
• • • • DORDRECHT
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quickly point out. To visit a real Dutch city, CHANNEL
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consider basing yourself in one of the smaller
•
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towns and commuting to Amsterdam! Satur- LEUVEN AACHEN

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days are especially animated in the provin- LANDEN
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hurdy-gurdy men playing their barrel organs. (6.25 hrs)

•
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Alkmaar and its famous, colorful “old- DINANT MARLOIE AMSTERDAM to

• •
BRUSSELS MONS

•
ANSEREMME BASEL (7.75 hrs)
style” cheese market (mid-April to early (1.5 hrs)
GERMANY JEUMONT
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September) is one of the best cities even if

•
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you canʼt come on Friday mornings when the FRANCE
(4.25 hrs) LIB
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to FRANKFURT
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centuries-old cheese auction is held (30 mins
by rail). Gouda offers a similar market (July •€ BERTRIX ETTEL-
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• • •
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and August) on Thursday (50 mins by train). CHA
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The Hague (Den Haag), 45 minutes by IÈRE
RODANGE

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rail from Amsterdam, is the seat of the Dutch
•
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PARIS

•
C. DE GAULLE AIRPORT

•
to A
PRIS (4 hrs)
Government (while Amsterdam is the official EPERNAY
LONGUYON

capital). One of the most elegant of Euro-

THIONVILLE

pean cities, The Hague with its many foreign

embassies and chic shops has a cosmopolitan
look and feel. Its ornate Binnenhof houses
the Dutch Parliament; and the Mauritshuis,
a 17th-century palace, is the home of a
The Holland of Yesteryear
A nifty day trip from Amsterdam goes
to a trio of dreamy historic port towns set
near each other on the former Zuiderzee,
which, after being diked off from the sea,
is now the freshwater lake Ijsselmeer.
Bus from Amsterdam thru polders (farm-
land reclaimed from the sea) to Marken,
a fishing village where little has changed
in eons, making it a virtual open-air mu-
seum of a bucolic bygone Holland. From
Marken hop a boat to Volendam, explore
its cute old town center, and then bus
back to Amsterdam via nearby Edam,
another quaint ancient town. Adding to
the magic of Marken and Volendam are
the locals who wear traditional costumes.
Easy rail day trips from Amsterdam go
farther up the coast to two more historic
port towns, Hoorn (40 mins) and Enk-
huizen (1 hr). Enkhuizen offers a popu-
lar open-air museum, to which have been
transplanted scores of historical edifices
to re-create an old Zuiderzee village.
world-famous collection of Dutch master- Come here not to see old-world beauty,
pieces. The North Sea Jazz Festival, one of but to see how a city rises from the ashes.
Europeʼs very best, is held here in mid-July. Rotterdam also offers the highly acclaimed
Delft, an hour by rail from Amsterdam or Boymans-van Beuningen Museum, with
10 minutes by rail from The Hague, may be top-notch art, and tours thru its modern port.
the loveliest of the smaller Dutch towns with Utrecht, though a large city, is one of the
its many canals and remarkable market better Dutch towns. For a delightful earful,
square. Climb the 357-foot-high church visit the novel Music Clock and Street Or-
tower for a great view and visit the Porce- gan Museum featuring music boxes and all
leyne Fles factory to see the famous Delft kinds of automated musical instruments from
Blue porcelain being handcrafted. Pick up a the 1700s to the present. But the real beauty
small tile or one of the companyʼs venerated of Utrecht rests in its pedestrian-thronged
Christmas plates for a novel souvenir. shopping area along the old wharves — es-
Rotterdam, the worldʼs largest port, was pecially bustling on Saturdays when it hosts
smashed to smithereens in 1940 — only one a large flea market.
building in the town center was left standing. The North Sea beaches are a short train
ride from Amsterdam. If the rare sunny day
The Kröller-Müller Museum occurs, head for Zandvoort and miles of
For a special interest day trip, take the unspoiled dunes and sandy beaches. But be
train to Arnhem and then bus to nearby careful or be bashful — some sections have
Hoge Veluwe National Park, a large been officially designated nude beaches and
expanse of sand dunes and pine trees and are so marked.
the site of the Kröller-Müller Museum, The tulip fields are in full bloom April to
which offers oodles of Van Goghs, plus early May. Though there are other flowers at
Picassos, Suerats, Monets, Mondrians, all times of summer, nothing is as impressive
contemporary art and an outstanding out- as the miles of tulips undulating in the wind.
door statue garden. Inside the park you Trains from Haarlem to Leiden run thru the
can ride bicycles free of charge on miles heart of the flower belt. In Amsterdam you
of special bike paths. can buy tulip bulbs at the Flower Market

22 Budget Europe Travel Service Rail Questions ? Call 800-441-2387, 800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
and have them shipped home for you. If you
wish to see a flower auction, visit Aalsmeer
(bus from Amsterdam) or Naaldwijk (bus
from The Hague) — the action begins at
7:30 and starts to tail off about 11am. Tulips,
ironically, arenʼt native to Holland but were
imported here by way of Turkey in the 16th
century.
BELGIUM
Donʼt just train thru Belgium when going
from Amsterdam to Paris — the country
offers great historic cities. Although most
people see only Brussels, the real gem of
Belgium is Brugge, one of Europeʼs few
medieval-looking cities. Brussels has its
merits; but if your time is precious, you may
find it is better spent in Brugge, Gent or
Antwerp.
Bilingual Country: The Flemish in north-
ern Belgium speak Dutch; the Walloons in
the south, French. Brussels, where the two
cultures meet, is a bilingual city.
Trains: The Belgian rail system claims to
be the densest in the world. There are two
trains hourly between all large cities. As
Belgium is small, we suggest staying in a
base city and using the superb train system to
day-trip to other places. The Benelux, Eurail
Select, Eurail, Benelux & France and
Benelux & Germany railpasses are all valid
in Belgium. (All are available from BETS;
see www.budgeteuropetravel.com.)
Bikes can be rented at many train stations
and returned to any of these. Youʼll find
numerous bike paths — seek out those along
the many canals for a picturesque ride thru
the flat countryside.
To Britain: Eurostar trains leave frequent-
ly from Brussels to London (2 hrs; special
discounted passholder fares are available for
all passes valid either in Belgium or Great
Britain).
Food Treats: Loosen your belt when com-
ing to Belgium! Belgian cuisine is equal
to the best in the world. Taste the moules
(mussels), carbonnades flamandes (beef
cooked in beer) or anguilles au vert (young
eels served with herbs). Save room in your
tummy for Belgian waffles and the “oh-so-
good” chocolates, many with fancy fillings.
Belgium is the frites (french fries) capital
of the world; surprisingly appetizing are the
copious portions served in huge paper cones
at frite stands seemingly located on every
corner — try the numerous and exotic top-
pings. The Belgians claim to be Europeʼs
biggest beer guzzlers. The country produces
over 100 different brands of beer. Try the
unique “only brewed in Belgium” Trappist
beers (developed by cloistered monks) such
as Gueuze and cherry-flavored Kriek. But
watch out — the sweet innocuous taste of
these brews masks an extremely high alco-
holic content!
Brussels, while an important bureaucratic
city (home of both NATO and the European
Union), offers little of interest for the aver-
age traveler. A few hours can suffice here to
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
see the two “must” sights: the Grandʼ Place,
often (and subjectively) called Europeʼs
finest square, and the Manneken-Pis, a
statue of a small “pee-weeing” boy. Also, the
Museum of Old Masters has an excellent
collection of Flemish art. Nearby Waterloo
is the site of the battlefield where Napoleon
met Wellington and his personal “waterloo”
in 1815 (20 mins from Brussels by suburban
train).
Brugge, with its many canals and
untouched-by-time look, is called the “Venice
of the North.” Thanks to strict preserva-
tion laws, little has changed here since the
Middle Ages. As Brugge is a small city, its
sights can be viewed in a relaxed day trip;
however, try to stay in Brugge as the city is
loveliest at night when the canals, bridges
and old buildings are floodlit. Be sure to
take the canal boats for a unique view of the
city — although the best view is to be had by
climbing the 366 huff-and-puff steps to the
top of the Belfry that dominates the impres-
sive Market Square. And donʼt miss the
serene setting of the 13th-century convent, including the Descent from the Cross. The
Royal Museum of Fine Arts is considered
the Begijnhof. Along with many museums
and churches stuffed with old Flemish master- one of the best Flemish art museums in the
world. Even non-art lovers will revel at Mid-
pieces, youʼll find Michelangeloʼs Madonna
and Child in the Church of Our Lady. delheim, Europeʼs largest statue park, with
many famous (and provocative) sculptures.
Brugge is also famous for its handmade lace,
an easy-to-carry souvenir or gift. The Ardennes area in eastern Belgium
has forested mountains — a dramatic con-
If near Brugge on Ascension Day (40 days
after Easter), be sure to see the Procession trast from the flat “lowlands” in the west.
The train line from Brussels to Luxembourg
of the Holy Blood, held on this day since
thru the Ardennes is most scenic. This area
1303. Youʼll experience a grand parade with
of Belgium was made famous by the Battle
1,500 townspeople dressed in Biblical and
of the Bulge, an important turning point in
medieval Crusader costumes gathered to
WWII. Bastogne is the scene of major battle-
pay homage to the townʼs religious relic, the
fields and the “Nuts” Museum (referring to
Holy Blood (purportedly a vial of Christʼs
the one-word reply made by American Gen-
blood brought back to Brugge by Crusaders
eral McAuliffe to the German ultimatum to
in 1149) — housed today in the Basilica of
surrender — now part of Belgian folklore).
the Holy Blood.
Gent was the second largest city in
northern Europe during the Middle Ages LUXEMBOURG
as evidenced by its many old guild houses, Luxembourg City, the thousand-year-old
churches and Brugge-like neighborhoods. capital of the Grand Duchy and for centuries
St. Bavoʼs Cathedral has the Van Eyck one of the most powerful fortresses in the
brothersʼ famous Adoration of the Mystic world, is one of Europeʼs most physically
Lamb and Rubensʼ Conversion of St. Bavo. striking cities with a deep gorge dramati-
Youʼll also find a thronged shopping area cally bisecting it. The view alone is worth
and the Castle of the Counts of Flanders a stop; though donʼt miss a ramble thru the
with its grim dungeons and torture instru- Casemates, an intriguing 13-mile network
ments. In mid-July the Gent Festival, a of passageways cut from solid rock, or a
citywide street fair, offers numerous parades drink at one of the busy outdoor cafés on the
and free outdoor concerts. popular square — Place dʼArmes. At nearby
Antwerp, much larger than either Brugge Hamm, many Americans visit the U.S.
or Gent, has more than enough to keep Military Cemetery, where General Patton
your interest for a full day if not longer. is buried. The rural parts of the Duchy are
Antwerp is the worldʼs leading diamond very picturesque. The Duchyʼs train system
center — visit the factories, where the gems is surprisingly dense — take a local train
are cut and polished, and the shops where into the countryside to a lovely small town
they are sold. Art lovers will be in heaven in like Clervaux with its dreamy 12th-century
Antwerp. The palatial Rubens House, where castle or Ettelbruck to really get off the
the artist lived and worked for 30 years, was beaten path. (Luxembourg City is 40 mins
built according to his philosophy that it is by train from Trier, Germany, 2 hrs from
not important to live long but to live well. Koblenz and the Rhine. Paris is only 2 hrs
Antwerpʼs superb Gothic Cathedral is a away with trains going via Epernay or Reims
veritable art museum with lovely stained — cities offering excellent tours thru their
glass and three famous Rubensʼ masterpieces many champagne caves.)
Budget Europe Travel Service 23
 FRANCE • • • • BELGIUM
€

€
OOSTENDE
ENGLAND PARIS to LONDON
HOLLAND

•
• • •
(3 hrshrs
(2 .25 via Chunnel)
via chunnel)
DUNKERQUE COLOGNE

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(KÖLN)

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For many, “France” is only Paris. But
LILLE

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Europeʼs largest country is a lot more than
• •
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just the sights of Paris — its real beauty
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to IRELAND
lies in the bucolic countryside punctuated

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by crumbling orange-roofed villages lost in ROUEN

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time. France, the country, like Paris, is not to
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be missed. AVR
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Trains: The French railways are among
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routes out of Paris to many places, such as

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• • • •
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Nice, Bordeaux, Geneva, Brussels and Lon- ES ZÜRICH

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don. If youʼre focusing only on France, the

•
DOLE BERN
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D E . GE

•
POITIERS S-F RM
BEAUNE LAUSANNE
SWITZERLAND
France Flexipass is a true bargain, or check
• •
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• • • •
SÉ - BRIG
Main S
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out the Eurail Select or Global, France & Rail Lines
LA ROCHELLE
MACON

• • • • ••
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Benelux, France & Germany, France & MARTIGNY

•
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Italy, France & Spain or the France &
Secondary
Rail Lines ANGOULEME
€ LIMOGES CLERMONT
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• • • •
PARIS to

•
ST. CHAMBÉRY
Switzerland railpasses for other passes valid
PÉRIGUEUX MILAN

• • • ••
ARVANT ÉTIENNE
Bus Routes (7.5 hrs)

• ITALY
TURIN

•
BRIVE MODANE
in France. These passes also give a discount BO
BERGERAC

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•
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VALENCE BRIANÇON

•
EAU SOUILL
on the Paris–London Eurostar train. (Call AC

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BETS or go to www.budgeteuropetravel.
• • •

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com for details and prices of these passes.)
• BIA

• • • ••• • •
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• ••• • • •
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two to three days: the Louvre (Mona Lisa, LA TOUR SO
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Venus de Milo, etc.), with its eye-catching SPAIN IGN
AN

FRANCE
POR T BOU to

ANDORRA €
€
BARCELONA
(2 hrs)
glass pyramid entrance designed by

I. M. Pei; the Eiffel Tower (be sure to go all
the way to the top for the view of Paris from
1,000 feet high); Notre Dame Cathedral;
the Champs-Élysées and Arc de Triomphe;
Montmartre and its crowning glory the
Sacré Cœur Basilica.
Try to see more than just the “must” sights:
go to some of the smaller museums (Rodin,
Picasso); gaze upon the monumental Opéra
Garnier or Grande Arche de la Défense;
stroll at night or view the passing crowd
from a sidewalk café in the animated Latin
Quarter; watch the sword-swallowers, fire-
eaters and mimes in front of the Pompidou
Center, housing the National Modern Art
Museum; view the city at night by Seine
River boat; people-watch in the Tuileries
or Luxembourg gardens; wander thru the
Sorbonne; catch an organ concert in Notre
The Chateaux of the Loire
Visit at least one of the famous castles
that French nobility built in the Loire
Valley to serve as their lavish country
retreats and private hunting reserves. The
chateaux country is only one hour by
TGV train from Paris to Tours, making
day trips from Paris plausible. Tours,
Blois or Amboise make good bases for
the area. While trains wonʼt take you
right to the gates of most of the castles,
convenient bus service is available. Con-
sider biking from nearby train stations
to several of the chateaux, such as the
“consensus-bests” — Chambord and
Chenonceau. (Note: Bikes or cars can be
easily rented at several area train stations.)
€
PUIGCERDÀ PORT BOU
Dame or climb up to its roof pathways to Reims (30 mins from Paris) is also noted
go eyeball to eyeball with the gargoyles and for its Cathedral, the traditional coronation
stone monsters there; shop the ornate grands site of the French kings, and its champagne
magasins (department stores) such as Gal- tours. But the best champagne “caves” and
eries Lafayette or Au Printemps for Paris tours are in Epernay, less than a half hour
fashions or perfume; take bizarre tours thru from Reims or just over an hour from Paris
the Catacombs, Père Lachaise Cemetery by train — both Epernay and Reims can be
or Les Égouts (the sewers). Tu cabaret? If combined easily into the same day trip. Pick
so, try one of the many nightclubs — Parisʼ champagne tours carefully (ask at the tour-
nightlife never ceases. There are a thousand ist office) to avoid a dry disappointment at
intriguing things to do in Paris! the end — only a few, such as the excellent
Donʼt miss the Orsay Museum, which of- Moët and Chandon tour in Epernay and the
fers an eclectic mix of various 19th-century Mumm tour in Reims, give samples of the
art forms including, without question, the bubbly. Giverny, 50 miles northwest of Paris
worldʼs greatest collection of impressionist (Vernon rail stop), offers the gardens of the
paintings. Apart from the art, itʼs worth the famous impressionist Claude Monet which
price of admission to see the museum build- were the inspiration for many of his paint-
ing itself — originally a circa 1900 Beaux- ings, including his Water Lily series. Van
Arts train station with a huge vaulted glass Gogh devotees will want to buzz out to Au-
and iron roof. Often overlooked by American vers-sur-Oise to tramp the Artists Trail and
tourists, but well worth ferreting out, are literally see this former farm hamlet thru the
Sainte Chapelle, with its fabulous wealth of eyes of the master (1 hr northwest of Paris
sparkling stained glass, as well as the trendy by train). Chantilly, with its elegant chateau
Marais neighborhood, with its inviting (housing over 600 paintings) and vast park,
boutiques, cafés, and the Place des Vosges, is only 30 minutes northeast of Paris by rail.
perhaps the cityʼs most elegant square.
Day Trips From Paris: Versailles, with REGIONAL FRANCE
its wonderfully extravagant palace, fountains Normandyʼs WWII D-Day beaches
and sprawling gardens, is a must! Bring a are near Bayeux (2 hrs from Paris). Take a
picnic, lay back and enjoy the scene. The minibus tour or rent a bike at the station to
day trip to Versailles can be combined get to the U.S. military cemetery and famous
with Chartres, which is only 30 minutes beachheads with memorials and museums.
farther along the same train line. Chartresʼ Arromanches, six miles from Bayeux, has
Cathedral is often called the jewel of all an invasion museum with models of the Al-
medieval European churches; its pellucid- liesʼ artificial Mulberry Harbor, an extraor-
blue stained-glass windows are unrivaled. dinary engineering feat (some of which still

24 Budget Europe Travel Service To Order: Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !

can be seen off the beach). Bayeux itself is NICE to TURIN ITALY

€
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an age-old town famed for its Cathedral
• • •
(8 hrs) Orange via TGV (8-9 hrs) (7.5-8.5 hrs) Tende

• •• •
(4-6 hrs)
(6 hrs)
(7 hrs) St. Auban Saorge
and its Bayeux Tapestry, an 11th-century Châteauneuf-

• • •••
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Abbey, is the most visited French tourist ( 6 Aix-en-Provence St. Raphaël Juan-
les-Pins

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sight outside Paris (4 hrs from Paris). The
Abbey, begun in the 11th century, sits atop a Main Rail Lines
• St. Tropez •

3.5 h
Toulon
rocky island pinnacle one mile off the coast.

2.75 hrs
Secondary Rail Lines
In years past Mont St. Michel became a part

rs
Bus Routes

•
of the mainland at low tide and at high tide Sea Routes
10 hrs
returned to its island state; but due to silt- Breil-
ing up of its bay, Mont St. Michel is only sur-Roya

•
MEDITERRANEAN
an island on rare occasions today. (Nearest FRENCH RIVIERA SEA
CORSICA
Bastia
railhead is at Pontorson, 6 miles away; bus
or taxi from the station, or rent a bike at the
Calvi
•
station.) and Little Venice, or to Baden-Baden, Ger- Day Trips From Avignon: Arles, Nîmes,
many (1 hr), one of Europeʼs most famous St. Rémy and Orange all showcase some
spa towns (see page 10). The Alsace Wine of the best-preserved Roman artifacts in
Route, meandering thru an area between Europe. For an unimaginable thrill, walk
Strasbourg and Mulhouse, traverses a sea across the Pont du Gard, a 2,000-year-old
of vineyards and a string of pretty wine vil- Roman aqueduct that soars 180 feet above
PIX lages, such as Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé. a river valley. Visit Les Baux to see the
Lyon is one of Europeʼs most underrated unusual haunting ruins of an entire medieval
cities. Although a bustling modern metropo- citadel town that cap a dramatic outcrop of
lis, Lyonʼs vieille ville (old town) is unique rock. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, famous for
due to its dark maze of covered alleys and its vineyards, offers tours and free tastings.
isolated courtyards with wrought-iron grills Aix-en-Provence, a venerable university
and spiral iron staircases. Lyon is only two town, may have more sidewalk cafés and
hours from Paris by speedy TGV and makes book shops per capita than any other French
a good stopover on the way to the Riviera. town! (These places are within 30 minutes to
Avignon is an ideal stop between Paris and an hour from Avignon.)
Strasbourg, a great stop when going the Riviera or Spain, and is a great base from Carcassonne, on the way to Spain from
between Paris (2 hrs 15 mins by rail) and which to tour Provence, one of Europeʼs France (1 hr from Toulouse), is often called
nearby Germany, is an oft-overlooked gem top tourist haunts. (The TGV-Med bullet the worldʼs most impressive fortified medi-
set in the Alsace, a region thatʼs a unique train makes the trip from Paris to Avignon in eval town, with its double defensive walls
bilingual blend of Germany and France. under three hours!) Little has changed inside and 52 towers dating from the 13th century.
Explore Strasbourgʼs primo Cathedral and Avignonʼs intact walls since medieval times. It looks even better today than it did during
the neighboring old quarter, and soak in the Be sure to see the famous 14th-century the Middle Ages; for beginning in the mid-
old-time atmosphere in Petite France, an area Palace of the Popes, a huge structure built 1800s, it was completely restored to mint-
lined by half-timbered houses and laced by to house several Popes after they had to flee like condition from the remaining rubble.
lanes, canals and locks. From Strasbourg, from Italy. Come to Avignon, if you can, dur-
easy rail day trips go to Colmar (30 mins), a ing the immensely popular Avignon Festival THE FRENCH RIVIERA
cute town with a fab historic center, includ- (last three weeks of July) when the town is Donʼt miss the French Riviera (Côte
ing its especially quaint Tanners Quarter alive day and night. dʼAzur) as it has an atmosphere and serene
beauty of its own. While most tourists flock
to the well-known resorts of Nice, Monte-
Chamonix to Italy via Cable Car Carlo or Cannes, much of the Rivieraʼs
From Chamonix (3,402 ft) nestled against the base of soaring Mt. Blanc (15,771 ft) — charm lies in the isolated coves and beaches
Europeʼs tallest peak — you may take a novel though expensive téléphérique (cable-car) that stretch for miles along the Mediterra-
ride across the Alps to Italy and experience heart-stopping panoramas! If youʼre not a nean coast. If possible, try to avoid the hectic
“Nervous Nellie,” take the Aiguille du Midi téléphérique, the highest (at 12,605 ft) and August vacation period.
most breathtaking cable-car ride in the world, for a gorgeous but frightening ascent thru the Trains: Rail service along the Riviera is
clouds almost to the top of Mt. Blanc (stay near the windows if youʼre not averse to excellent with two trains an hour hugging the
heights). From there switch to the four-person téléphériques that traverse the “top of the coast from St. Raphaël to the Italian border.
world” across an immense glacial sea of ice. Often youʼll stop for minutes, dangling above These “locals” stop every few miles, mak-
the Antarctic-type terrain before you reach Pt. Helbronner (11,358 ft), an icy outpost of ing the train a great way to explore even the
the French-Italian border. From here you may return to Chamonix or descend to Entrèves most isolated reaches along the coast.
(4,495 ft) in Italy and then bus 25 miles to the nearest major railhead at Aosta. An interest- Beaches: If you want crowds, head for the
ing historic valley town, Aosta is a good place to stay the night. Overall, this will be an un- sands at Cannes, Antibes, Monte-Carlo or
fathomable experience; though not covered by any railpass, chances are youʼll say it was the pebbles at Nice; for seclusion, get off at a
well worth it! (Chamonix–Pt. Helbronner: $95 round trip.) small station like Cap-dʼAil or Éze and find
Chamonix itself, an alpine resort village, is a good jumping-off point for all levels of hik- your own spot in the sun.
ing, mountain climbing and skiing in the area. Itʼs easily reached from Lyon (4-5 hrs) or Nice is the best base city for the area with
Paris (6-7 hrs) and makes a good gateway from France into the Swiss Alps (see Martigny in plentiful accommodations always available,
our Switzerland section). If looking to experience the beauty of the Alps, you may opt to visit even in August. (If on a budget, stick to Nice
the French instead of the Swiss Alps and save yourself a few bucks as prices are a bit cheaper. as other areas are much more upscale than
this more workaday city.) Nice itself merits
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com ! Budget Europe Travel Service 25
 Train Excursions into the Maritime Alps
Consider one of the following two train trips to see the lovely mountainous area inland
from the coast. These trips can be taken as day trips from Nice or can be used as a slowpoke
meandering way of going on to Paris, Switzerland or Italy.
The “Ligne Digne” is a superb ride via a tiny train that twists and tunnels thru the rugged
Maritime Alps. People who have queasy stomachs, however, may wish to stay away as the
ride is washboard rough. Yet this vibrating train will certainly be one of the highlights of
your trip that you wonʼt be able to shake from your mind as it is an incredible voyage thru
magnificent countryside and villages lost in time. If on a day trip, we advise aborting mid-
way and adding in a short hike before returning to Nice. Entrevaux and Annot, towns right
out of the Middle Ages, are good places to do this. A short walk from either town will lead
you to the gushing Var River. If you can survive the whole three hours to Digne, you can SPAIN
transfer there to a bus taking you to St. Auban (a 35-minute ride) to connect with the regular
French rail system (with connections to Paris, or to Switzerland via Grenoble and Geneva). Spain is Europeʼs #1 tourist destination
Stop at Digne, a pleasant spa town, if you wish to break your journey. The “Ligne Digne” is for Europeans. Many come for the beaches
a private railway that is 50% off with any railpass valid in France. and many for the old-world lifestyle that
Nice to Sospel is a smooth one-hour train ride that takes you thru the mountains to Sospel, permeates the country. Nights are especially
a colorful backwater market town very different from the touristy Riviera. (Free with rail- animated as the cities come to life after the
passes. If you wish, continue on this scenic line to Cuneo, Italy and then on to Turin. From afternoon-long siesta. Streets are crowded
Nice: Cuneo 3 hrs; Turin 5 hrs; Milan 6.5 hrs.) with strolling people and musicians; cafés
are full well past midnight — a unique Span-
a whole day for its famous beach, superb St. Tropez, 30 miles by bus from the ish ambience. Paella (a rice dish), sangria
shopping, excellent museums and Roman St. Raphaël train station, was once an exclu- and flamenco dancing are three more pleas-
ruins. At night donʼt miss the vieille ville (old sive beach resort of movie stars, artists and ures of Spanish life. Best of all, the prices in
town) with its tangle of narrow alleys, many the very wealthy. It is quickly becoming a Spain are lower than much of Europe. If pos-
outdoor restaurants and sidewalk cafés. Try plebeian tourist center, much to the disdain sible, avoid travel here in August when many
bouillabaisse (a fish soup) to sample a local of the few remaining jet setters. European vacationers descend en masse on
culinary specialty. If in Nice in mid-July, you The Principality of Monaco offers the the country, trains are most crowded and the
can take in the famous Grande Parade du Princeʼs Palace, acclaimed Oceanographic weather boiling hot.
Jazz, featuring 250 of the worldʼs greatest Museum and superlative Tropical Garden. Trains: RENFE, the Spanish Railways,
jazz musicians. Concerts are held nightly in Rub shoulders with the rich and famous at has improved train quality greatly in recent
the Roman Arena overlooking Nice. the enormous yacht marina or at the ornate years: the hourly AVE trains between Bar-
Monte-Carlo Casino, the queen of all Euro- celona and Madrid and between Madrid and
Walking the French Riviera pean casinos with its rich rococo interior. Seville are superior trains, zipping along at
Hiking is great along much of the Ventimiglia, where the coastal shuttle train speeds of up to 220 mph. Spain, however,
Riviera. For an easy seaside walk from terminates, lets you experience Italy as a day still offers less frequency of service than
the Cap-dʼAil train station, take footpaths trip. San Remo, a bit farther into Italy, offers the rest of Europe — so if planning exten-
along the rocky coast to Monaco, a two- a world-famous flower market and the cha- sive railing here, allow more time than you
mile stroll revealing the natural beauty otic bustle typical of Italy. expect. The many overnight trains make
of the Côte dʼAzur. A similar walk can Corsica, three hours by boat from Nice, is sense due to the long distances. The Spain,
be taken on footpaths from Cap-Martin an Italian-speaking French island. Its idyllic Eurail Select or Global, Spain & Portugal,
back to Monaco. Bring picnic supplies beaches are less crowded than those on the France & Spain and the Italy & Spain
and swimming gear. Even in August, mainland. All railpasses valid in France give railpasses all give unlimited rail travel in
youʼll find few people along the paths. a 50% discount off Corsicaʼs trains, but no Spain. See www.budgeteuropetravel.com for
discounts on boats from the mainland (fares details and prices of all passes valid in Spain.
St. Paul-de-Vence and Éze, easy day trips start at $50 each way). If going on to Italy Spanish-French Border: The tracks in
from Nice, are two superlative ancient ram- from Corsica, catch a boat to Livorno near Spain are wider than those in the rest of
parted hilltop villages. Today, both are brim- Pisa. Europe; but if youʼre on a Spanish Talgo
ming with artsy boutiques and, unfortunately, train going directly to Madrid or Barcelona,
hordes of tourists, but rambling up and down The “Little Yellow Train” youʼll just cruise past the border as they have
their hilly narrow car-free lanes is still a joy. A novel way to go between France and adjustable wheels. On the other hand, if you
The Cannes area gushes with wealth. Spain is to hop the scenic “Little Yel- are riding a French train, youʼll have to leave
Cannes itself, besides its beaches, marinas low Train” (free with railpasses valid the train at the border and transfer to a Span-
filled with colossal yachts, and promenade of in France) going from Perpignan, on ish train. Although this is straightforward, it
expensive boutiques appealing to jet setters, the main coastal rail line, to La Tour is advisable to have made a seat or sleeper
has little of interest for the average tourist. de Carol, high in the Pyrenees on the reservation in advance as all trains in Spain
Grasse, the French perfume capital, offers Spanish border. Here youʼll switch to (except local ones) require them, and reser-
tours thru its perfumeries. Mougins, once the Puigcerdà Line (free with railpasses vation lines at the border can be long. (Res-
the home of Picasso, is a small hilltop vil- valid in Spain), which meanders down ervations can be made as far as 60-90 days
lage with tremendous views overlooking the to Barcelona; or instead opt to go to in advance at most rail stations in Europe or
coast. Antibes and Juan-les-Pins offer some Toulouse on yet another extremely sce- thru BETS; we advise you to reserve early!)
of the areaʼs best sandy beaches. Antibes is nic rail line. For a thrill sit in one of the
CATALONIA
also famous for its Picasso Museum; Juan- open-air cars on the toy-like “Little Yel-
les-Pins for its upscale nightlife. low Train” as it slowly threads its way Barcelona, only two hours from France, is a
thru the mountains of this rugged region. gem that can be easily included in any Eurail
Call BETS — the European experts To add another country to your trip, visit itinerary. For the 1992 Olympics, the city
who have hiked, biked, bused, boated Andorra, 38 miles by bus from La Tour spent billions sprucing up its labyrinth-like,
and railed their way around Europe ! de Carol. centuries-old Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter),
many attractive parks, and amazing collec-
26 Budget Europe Travel Service Rail Questions ? Call 800-441-2387, 800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
tion of edifices by Gaudí (an architect who

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VILA MIRAN- DE CAROL
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old quarter. Outdoor concerts, street dances PUIGCERDÀ

•• • • ••
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and busy sidewalk cafés add to the festive POCINHO
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Day Trips From Barcelona: A one-hour •• SEGOVIA

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house it. The view from Montserrat is per-

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lanes, winding your way up from the river to

the Cathedral, at the top of a monumental
90-step staircase.
Figueras, two hours north of Barcelona
and only 20 minutes by train from the French
border, is famous for its Dalí Museum cel-
ebrating the maestroʼs surrealistic works.
Salvador Dalí and other well-known artists,
such as Magritte, lived at the nearby art
colony, Cadaqués, called the prettiest town
on the Costa Brava — the Mediterranean
coast between Barcelona and France.
THE BASQUE COUNTRY
The mountainous Basque Country (País
Vasco) straddles the French-Spanish border
in northeastern Spain. The exact origin of the
Basque people remains a mystery — they are
not Spanish and their language resembles no
other European tongue. Pelota (jai alai), a
Basque game similar to handball, originated
in this area. Each city has a jai alai frontón
where you can watch and bet on the players.
San Sebastián, near the French border, is a
convenient stop on the Paris–Madrid rail line.
Called the Pearl of the Cantabrian Coast, this
fashionable Basque resort, set on a captivat-
ing seashell-shaped bay, has inviting sandy
beaches, many nightspots, and restaurants
that are a gastronomeʼs delight. Its old quarter
and shoreline promenades make for inspiring
walking venues. A private commuter rail line
(not valid with railpasses) links San Sebastián
to Bilbao, which has the celebrated Guggen-
heim Contemporary Art Museum in an
out-of-this-world titanium-and-glass structure,
Spanish bullfights (corridas) are held
on many Sundays from mid-May to late
September. Though these blood baths
have lost popularity in recent years, they
are still held in most major cities.
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
IN
OS
or to Hendaye, France, where you can con- El Escorial, the “Spanish Versailles,” is on
nect to main-line French trains. the same train line as Ávila. An immense
Pamplona, two hours by train from San 16th-century palace with 300 rooms and
Sebastián, is famous for its Festival of San 2,600 windows, it is called the best Renais-
Fermín, popularly known as the Running sance building in Spain. Segovia, like Ávila,
of the Bulls, which is held each July 6-14. has intact town walls but with only 86 towers.
Made famous by Hemingway in The Sun It also offers a famous Roman Aqueduct,
Also Rises, the nonstop party attracts throngs 40 medieval churches and its Alcázar — a
for the daily 8am encierro, when the bulls Moorish fairy-tale castle of unusual beauty.
are released to run loose thru the streets. Toledo, which sits on a hill overlooking a
Anyone can run ahead of the crazed animals; craggy gorge, is famous for its Cathedral,
however, there are occasional gorings and Synagogue, and its interesting town center
even deaths. Donʼt expect to do much sleep- resembling an Arab casbah with its warren of
ing — the festivities continue thru the night. tiny alleys. Stop in Aranjuez to tour its gran-
diose Royal Palace, with its unique Porce-
CASTILE lain Room and graceful gardens.
Madrid, smoggy and hectic, is not as at- Cáceres, a possible stopover by rail be-
tractive as Barcelona — but, like Barcelona, tween Madrid (4 hrs) and Lisbon (7 hrs), has
its old town and public squares filled with a deliciously preserved historic center, an an-
restaurants, bars, sidewalk cafés and stroll- tique marvel demanding to be photographed.
ing minstrels come alive at night. The cityʼs Salamanca, a university town three hours
few “must” sights need not occupy more from Madrid, is classified as a national his-
than a day or two. The Prado is inevitably toric site due to its citywide untouched look
included in the list of the worldʼs top five and its Plaza Mayor — considered to be one
art museums. Its collections include many of the most beautiful squares in the world.
old Spanish and Flemish masterpieces, such Burgos, on the Paris–Madrid rail line, is
as works by Goya, El Greco, Velázquez, one of Spainʼs most notable centers of Gothic
Murillo and Rubens. Picassoʼs celebrated art and architecture. Its major Gothic Ca-
Guernica hangs in the Centro de Arte thedral — Spainʼs third largest — is Burgosʼ
Reina Sofía along with other 20th-century most famous landmark.
art. The Palacio de Villahermosa houses the León, a bit off the tourist track, has the out-
Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection, said to be standing Gothic Cathedral with acclaimed
the worldʼs second most important private stained glass, San Isidoro Basilicaʼs Royal
art collection (after Queen Elizabeth IIʼs). Pantheon with arresting ceiling frescoes, and
Madridʼs flea market, El Rastro, is one of the former San Marcos Monastery, now a
the most famous in Europe. state-run parador hotel fit for royalty.
Day Trips From Madrid: Madrid is a
great base city for easy day trips to see some GALICIA
nearby jewels. Ávila is still circled by intact Galicia is the remote northwestern area of
ramparts with old town gates and 90 towers. Spain. Although well off the main Eurail
Budget Europe Travel Service 27
lines, if touring Spain extensively, be sure
not to miss Santiago de Compostela, the
third most popular Christian pilgrimage
town in the world after Rome and Jerusalem.
Youʼll find the famous Shrine of St. James
the Apostle in the 11th-century Cathedral.
Besides its centuries-old religious signifi-
cance, Santiago is a bustling university town
that has retained its medieval old quarter
virtually intact — in fact, the entire old quar-
ter has been designated a national historic site.
ANDALUSIA
Once ruled by the Moors, this region of
southern Spain exhibits a strong Arab influ-
ence in its architecture. Exploring Andalusia
will entail traveling in one of Europeʼs hottest
climates — in summer the average high is 97°.
Seville offers not only many Moorish
relics, but also Europeʼs third largest Ca-
thedral, whose richly decorated interior
includes famous paintings by Murillo and
Goya. La Giralda, the symbol of Seville,
is a former minaret of a mosque, but is now
the Cathedralʼs belfry. Climb to the top on
its gently sloping ramp for a good view
of Seville. Also of special interest are the
Alcázar, an exquisite 14th-century royal
palace, and the narrow lanes of the Barrio
de Santa Cruz, with its intimate café-filled
squares. The city also has an energetic night
life and a cosmopolitan flare, perhaps due to
the thousands of foreigners studying here.
Its many flamenco pubs attest to the fact that
Seville was the birthplace of flamenco dance
and music.
Jerez de la Frontera is the home of sherry
wine (a British corruption of “Jerez”), sherry
tours, and the Royal Riding School with its
prancing Andalusian horses.
Córdoba, the capital of Moorish Spain,
was one of the worldʼs greatest cities during
the tenth century. Its extraordinary Mosque
is a vivid reminder of Córdobaʼs Moorish
heritage even though it was later transformed
by the cityʼs Christian conquerors into a
most unique cathedral.
Ronda is famous for its Plaza de Toros,
Spainʼs oldest bullring, where traditional bull-
fights are held each September. The setting
of the town is striking; a canyon splits the old
Moorish section from the new town.
Granada, with its old Arab quarter and
Alhambra, one of the worldʼs finest Moor-
ish palaces with intricate marble carvings
and mosaics, is a “must” if in Andalusia.
The Costa del Sol is a string of modern
beach resorts on Spainʼs southern Mediter-
ranean coast. Torremolinos and Fuengirola
are just two of the beach towns that attract
tremendous numbers of foreigners to fill their
endless line of high-rise hotels — itʼs hard
to find anything Spanish about this region.
Gibraltar, a British colony famous for
its “Rock” and Barbary apes, is at best a
short diversion if you have the time. (No rail
service; frequent buses from Algeciras to
La Línea; then walk across the border.)
28 Budget Europe Travel Service
Algeciras is the gateway to Morocco, with
ferries to Tangier (2 hrs; $60 round trip).
The Costa Blanca makes a convenient and
pleasant stopover between Andalusia and
Barcelona. Alicante is a good bet with its
beautiful beaches and impressive Castillo de
Santa Barbara, a castle perched on a hilltop
overlooking the Mediterranean. The rest of
the coast is full of high-rise beach resorts
catering to the annual tourist invasion.
PORTUGAL
Portugal, vying with Greece for being
Europeʼs cheapest country, is well worth the
detour off the main Eurail routes as it has
a unique charm and lifestyle far different
from the rest of Europe or even neighboring
Spain.
Trains: Because Portugal is remote from
Europe proper, Eurail Global and Eurail
Select railpasses are a good value to get you
there and back, and are valid in Portugal, as
are the Portugal and the Spain & Portugal
railpasses. (Call BETS or go to our website,
www.budgeteuropetravel.com, for details
and prices of these passes.)
Lisbon, with its antique charm, is one of
Europeʼs nicest cities. Donʼt miss the color-
ful Alfama section with its maze of narrow
twisting corridors and turn-of-the-century
trolleys; the great views from the hilltop
St. Georgeʼs Castle; the intricately sculpted
Jerónimos Monastery; the intriguing Na-
tional Coach Museum, one of the worldʼs
finest collections of carriages; and the Baixa
area with its hundreds of restaurants and
sidewalk cafés. Easy day trips from Lisbon
are to Sintra and its fairy-tale palaces; the
beach resorts of Cascais and Estoril; and
magical Óbidos with its castle and white-
washed houses encircled by ancient walls.
Évora is a dream city right out of medieval
times — its charming grid of tiny walled
lanes are still paved with timeworn stones
(2 hrs by train from Lisbon). Its São Fran-
cisco Church includes the bizarre Capela
dos Ossos, a chapel lined with the bones and
skulls of 5,000 departed souls. Évora is a
good stopover if heading to the Algarve in
southern Portugal.
The Algarve, one of Europeʼs most famous
beach areas, is filled with foreigners on pack-
age holidays. Train service from Lisbon to
Faro or Lagos, two of the most popular re-
sorts, is good. For less-touristed beaches, try
the area near Sagres and the stretch between
the fishing villages of Olhão and Tavira. If
going on to Spain, a bus from Faro to Seville
is the easiest option. As there is a rail gap at
the border, going by rail involves switching
to a ferry or bus to cross the Guadiana River
and then changing to a second bus for the
40-mile ride to Huelva in Spain to connect
with trains to Seville.
Nazaré, on the Atlantic, is worth a stop to
see a centuries-old fishing village (rail to Va-
lado, then bus 4 miles). Itʼs easy to day-trip
by bus from Nazaré to the nearby famous
monasteries at Alcobaça and Batalha.
To Order: Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
Tomar is notable for the 12th-century
fortified Convento de Cristo dominating the
town and once the Portuguese headquarters
of the Knights Templars (2 hrs north by rail
from Lisbon). The neighboring pilgrimage
town of Fátima is a short bus ride away.
Porto, with its dramatically breathtaking
setting on the Douro River, oozes old-world
ambience in its old quarter, whose many
buildings are decorated with vibrant azulejo
tiles. Must-do stops are the port-wine tours;
the 12th-century Cathedral and its azulejo-
rich Cloisters; the São Francisco Church,
with a show-stopping exuberant golden in-
terior; and the Bolsa Palaceʼs Arabian Hall,
sporting an intricate Arabian-inspired decor.
Easy day trips are to Guimarães, called the
Cradle of Portugal, to tour the Dos Duques
Palace and climb the Castle Tower; to the ca-
thedral city Braga and the nearby pilgrimage
stop, the Bom Jesus do Monte; to the sea-
side resort Viano do Castelo, which, along
with a fine historic center, has the Santa Lu-
zia Basilica, yet another pilgrimage spot; to
Coimbra to check out its Old Cathedral and
Old University; and a boat or train ride up
the vineyard-clad Douro River Valley. From
Porto you can go on to Santiago in northwest
Spain (5.5 hrs).
GREAT BRITAIN
Britain is one of the most enjoyable countries
to visit by train. Service is fast and frequent
and reaches into nearly every corner of this
historic land. Unfortunately, rail prices have
soared in the past few years, making a BritRail
Pass a valuable ticket even if you are planning
to take only a few rail journeys. (Call BETS or
see www.budgeteuropetravel.com for details
on the All-Brit, England, Scotland, London
Plus and Britain & Ireland railpasses.)
Note: The order of the following thumb-
nail sketches can be used as a rail-loop itin-
erary around Britain starting from London.
Oxford, the city of “dreaming spires,” has
over 600 buildings of architectural and histor-
ical interest within a square mile. Walk thru
the 39 colleges of the University — Magda-
len College, with its 15th-century buildings,
is considered the most beautiful. Blenheim
Palace, home to the Dukes of Marlborough,
eight miles away in Woodstock (frequent
buses), is a must for those interested in seeing
how the royals live. Winston Churchill was
born here and is buried in the nearby Bladon
churchyard. (Oxford: 1 hr from London.)
GREAT BRITAIN
ORKNEY
ISLANDS
Cambridge, more peaceful than Oxford
and
and with a bit more grandeur, is the epitome
of a university town. The highlight of any
LEWIS
THU
RSO ••
visit is Kingʼs College Chapel, an exqui- IRELAND WICK

site structure of stone and glass. Most of

YE
SK
the Universityʼs quadrangles, chapels and
gardens are open to the public — donʼt miss
Trinity College. Punting or rowing on the
• • • KYLE OF INVERNESS

•
LOCHALSH ABERDEEN
MALLAIG
River Cam as it meanders thru the Univer-
• FORT DU

• •••
ND
sityʼs grounds is a popular tourist sport. (1 hr
•
WILLIAM EE

from London.) MULL

OBAN
PERTH

ST
LEUCHARS ST. ANDREWS
Lincoln is a small beautiful city dominated ATLANTIC

•• •

IR
LIN
by one of Englandʼs finest cathedrals. Walk OCEAN

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•
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up the steep cobbled streets to the triple-

GLA
CA BURGH
ST R-
tiered 12th-century Cathedral. Across the AIR

SGO
S
ND
way are extensive remains of the Castle,
• • • • •
LA OT
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one of William the Conquerorʼs. (2 hrs from LONDON- E STRANRAER

•
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Belf
ast
SEA HEXHAM
NEWCASTLE

London.)
••
NOR THERN WHITBY

• • ••
WINDERMERE
IRELAND ISLE OF
York, an important city from Roman SLIG
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times, still has over three miles of its city

• •
BALLINA HOLME SCARBOROUGH

walls intact. Built on Roman foundations •WESTPORT

IRISH • • •
BLACKPOOL
SETTLE
PRESTON YORK

• • •
with medieval gates, you can walk atop the LL LE

• •
ATHLONE AN
GALWAY SEA DU LIVERPOOL
ED
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• • ••
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walls for a different view of the city. York DUBLIN O

• •
PORTA MANCHESTER
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••
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has many historic buildings with its crown-
•
HOLYHEAD CREWE LIN-

••
DINGLE SHANNON CH COLN
AIRPORT -COED EST
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ing glory being York Minster, which con- BALLY- ER
LIMERICK

• •
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• • • • •• • •
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tains some of Europeʼs finest stained-glass SHREWSBURY ICH

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• •
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windows including the largest medieval • • •
••
COVENTRY

• •
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WATERFORD ICH

•
ROSSLARE WARWICK CAM-
window — over 2,000 square feet. Walk
•
ABERYSTWYTH
• CORK

•
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•
KILLARNEY GTON
W ALES
down the Shambles, a cobblestone street
STRATFORD

•
FISHGUARD

• •
F CHELTENHAM

•• • • • ••
SWANSEA IF S OXFORD
with half-timbered houses lurching upwards RING OF
KERRY LONDON CA
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at precarious angles. If you enjoy trains, BR BATH

RAMSGATE

• •• •
CANTERBU
visit the National Railway Museum; and, if RY

• • • L •
SALISBURY
WINCHESTER ER
TAUNTON
shopping is your bag, York rivals any city in SOU
T HAMP T
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• •
BARNSTAPLE
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Europe. (2 hrs from London.)

AL
EXETER

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• •

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SCOTLAND CH ISLE OF

•
TORQUAY
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IS PENZANCE
GL
•
SCILLY
Edinburgh is a physically impressive- EN DIEPPE
looking city with its Castle perched high
atop an extinct volcano. Walk the famed
Main Rail Lines
Secondary Rail Lines
• • GUERNSEY CH
LE HAVRE

FRANCE
E

Royal Mile — the old section of the city Sea Routes

RB
O
JERSEY
UR

that stretches out and down the hill from

G

the Castle to the Palace of Holyrood, the

Queenʼs official Scottish residence. If pos- be made to Stirling to roam its mighty crag- jewel on the shore of Loch Linnhe, makes a
sible, visit during the Edinburgh Festival top Castle; and to St. Andrews (rail stop: much better base for hiking in the Highlands.
(mid-August thru early September). Besides Leuchars), to pay homage to the Old Course Ben Nevis (4,406 ft), Britainʼs highest peak,
classical pursuits, such as opera, orchestra and walk among the ruins of the Castle and is an easy climb, and there are excellent
and ballet, there is the Military Tattoo, a the Cathedral, all along a stunning rugged walks thru the Glen Nevis valley.
myriad of military bands in full regalia with coast.
their bagpipes and drums, plus the famous Inverness is considered the jumping-off BACK TO ENGLAND
Fringe Festival, which is made up of hun- point for the Highlands, and with just that Windermere is the hub city (though of-
dreds of small dance and theater companies in mind, hundreds of hikers “jump off” the ten overcrowded) for the magnificent Lake
presenting a wide diversity of music, dance, train here each day. But in reality there is District. Though many tourists, with the
mime, comedy and more — all at cheap not much here besides Loch Ness and its exception of a quick ride on one of the lake
prices. And the friendly pubs are packed plethora of “Nessie” stories. While Inverness boats, never get far from the cityʼs dozens of
with revelers each night. Easy day hops can itself is a nice city, Fort William, a small boutiques, it is quite easy to enjoy the splen-
did scenery of the surrounding countryside
Britainʼs Most Scenic Rail Ride — See Scotland at its Best in relative isolation as there are many trails
From Inverness take the “Kyle Highland Line” to Kyle of Lochalsh (82 miles; 3 hrs) — lacing Englandʼs premier nature area. (2 hrs
a majestic ride thru lochs, glens, mountains and forests. At Kyle bus across the bridge to the from Glasgow; 3 1/2 hrs from London.)
lovely and mountainous Isle of Skye to spend a day hiking in the Cuillin Hills — walks Blackpool is a Coney-Island-type resort
start from Sligachan. (There is bus service to the islandʼs main city of Portree that goes thru catering to the British working class. With
Sligachan.) When ready to move on, catch a bus to Armadale where you board a ferry its Golden Mile of beaches, amusement
(30 mins) to Mallaig. Here you board the West Highland Line that climbs thru breath- arcades, fish-and-chip shops and, of course,
taking mountain scenery and snakes along small ledges overlooking many lochs including pubs, this is a city dedicated to nothing but
Loch Lomond before ending in Glasgow (164 miles; 5.5 hrs). Fort William makes for a fun — there is no pretense about history
good stopover before continuing on to Glasgow. or culture here. Blackpool is most famous
for its “Illuminations”; in September and

Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com ! Budget Europe Travel Service 29

 summer solstice. It was also a most sacred
Hadrianʼs Wall: An Untouristed Splendor place of worship, which included ritual hu-
Marking the most northern frontier of the Roman Empire, this 14-foot-high wall built by man sacrifices especially on a day such as
the Emperor Hadrian in AD 122 ran for 73 miles across northern England partitioning it the solstice. (1 1/2 hrs from London.)
from barbaric Scotland. Today, you can walk along several surviving stretches much as the Penzance, a seaside village on the tip of
Roman soldiers did almost 2,000 years ago. While somewhat isolated, itʼs also devoid of the Cornwall Peninsula, makes a good base
the hordes of tourists that so often smother even the most beautiful of places. There are for exploring the gorgeous Cornish country-
buses to the wall from Hexham station, on the line from Newcastle to Carlisle. (Hexham side including Landʼs End, the most western
itself is a quaint village with an interesting abbey containing a fine Anglo-Saxon crypt.) If point of the English mainland. Along the
you enjoy walking, there is a scenic three-mile uphill walk to the wall from Bardon Mill coast there are many wonderfully isolated
station, a few stops past Hexham coming from Newcastle. The remains of a Roman fort and wild beach coves to explore; and donʼt
and village, Vindolanda, are along this walk. There are several Roman forts along the wall miss St. Michaelʼs Mount (3 miles from
with the best being Chesters Fort (Cilurnum) at Chollerford about five miles from Hex- Penzance), a smaller but far less touristy
ham. (Hexham is about 1 hr from Carlisle or Newcastle.) version of the Benedictine abbey of Mont St.
Michel in Normandy, France. You reach the
island via causeway or ferry (at high tide).
October, 375,000 bulbs light up the prom- house. At the Royal Shakespeare Theater, (4 hrs from London; 3 hrs from Bath.)
enade each night in a kaleidoscope of shapes the Bardʼs plays are performed from Novem- Winchester is a small lovely town that
and colors. (1 1/2 hrs from Liverpool.) ber thru September, but advance reserva- still retains the flavor of its 2,000-year-old
Chester is one of the prettiest cities in Eng- tions are usually required — there are a few past. The capital of pre-Norman England,
land, yet itʼs largely unknown to foreign tour- “returns” available for each performance for the city contains many historic buildings, the
ists. Chester was established by the Romans in those willing to spend a few hours in line. most magnificent being the 11th-century Ca-
AD 79, and Roman ruins still remain including (1/2 hr from Warwick.) thedral. Jane Austen is buried here. A table
an amphitheater and a two-mile stretch of Bath, Englandʼs most elegant town, has purported to be the legendary Round Table of
wall upon which you can walk. There is a fine been famed for centuries for its hot springs. King Arthur is displayed in the 13th-century
cathedral, but the highlight of Chester is the The Romans founded a spa here, building a Great Hall atop Castle Hill. (1 1/2 hrs from
double-arcaded shopping streets, first built in complex of baths around the springs. Today, London; 1/2 hr from Salisbury.)
the 13th century, known as The Rows. The much of their early engineering is preserved Isle of Wight is ideal for people looking
shops housed within these unique two-tiered in the Roman Baths Museum. Not knowing for something different. This small island
walks are among the best in Britain. (2 1/2 hrs about the Roman baths, the English built a (4 miles from the mainland) has a myriad of
from London; 1/2 hr from Liverpool.) Georgian Pump Room in the 17th century public footpaths, some of which take you to
on the same site. Here the hot spring water the tops of high bluffs overlooking the sea.
A Rail Journey in Wales is still pumped for drinking. The splendor of Take a ferry from Portsmouth on the main-
Starting at Chester, take the train along Bath is in its riches of Georgian architecture land to Ryde and then ride a 1920ʼs London
the scenic north coast to Llandudno, — walk around the city to see the Royal subway car to Shanklin — a good hub vil-
Walesʼ largest resort city. From here Crescent, The Circus (a circle of houses), lage with a beautiful beach, many thatched-
take the Conwy Valley Line that makes and Pulteney Bridge, lined with shops roof cottages, and a spectacular gorge run-
its way up a river valley and thru Snow- on either side. Also of note are the Abbey ning down from the clifftop to the sea. (2 hrs
donia National Park to Betws-y-Coed. Church and the Museum of Costume, from London.)
This small mountain resort makes a good which displays dress from the 17th century Brighton, a seaside resort only an hour
stopover. There are several beautiful to the present. (1 1/4 hrs from London; 1 hr away from London, is notable for its Geor-
walks in the area. Next continue on to the from Birmingham.) gian and Victorian architecture, including its
slate-mining town of Blaenau Ffestiniog Salisbury is noted for its early English exotic Royal Pavilion. But, unfortunately, the
where you transfer to the steam-powered Gothic Cathedral. The spire, the tallest in “boardwalk” area along the beach displays nu-
Ffestiniog Railway. This narrow-gauge England (404 ft), was added as an after- merous signs of decay as many Britons today
line descends thru a mountain valley to thought in 1334, and ever since the church prefer to vacation in sunny Spain, although the
Porthmadog. Here you change to the has been slowly sinking under its massive beach is still crowded on a rare warm day.
Cardigan Bay Line, Britainʼs most sce- weight. One of the four original copies of the Canterbury, the seat of the Anglican
nic seacoast line, continuing on to Bir- Magna Carta is housed in the Cathedralʼs Church, is dominated by its magnificent
mingham via Shrewsbury. (About 7 hrs Chapter House. Two miles north of the Gothic Cathedral with some of the best
total rail time.) Near Birmingham, visit Cathedral is the original site of the town, stained glass in existence. Dating from 1067,
Warwick and Stratford-upon-Avon. known as Old Sarum, which today is an the Cathedral has been an important pilgrim-
archaeological treasure trove containing age destination since Thomas Becket was
Warwick is a quaint town worth visiting remains from the Iron Age to the Norman pe- murdered in the Cathedral in 1170. The town
for its impressive 13th-century Castle, one riod. A few miles farther on is Stonehenge (a has narrow lanes crowded with half-timbered
of the few medieval castles that remains a short bus ride away). While this double cir- houses — making this a fun city for people
residence (the Earl of Warwickʼs). Many of cle of huge stones is one of the most famous who like to amble about dreaming of what
its most magnificent rooms are open to the archaeological sites in the world, it fails to medieval life was like. For added flavor, a
public. The half-timbered buildings lining impress many people when seen firsthand. 13th-century wall atop Roman foundations
the cityʼs narrow-streets, including the super- One needs to imagine the Bronze Age people surrounds part of the city. Perhaps the one
lative 14th-century Lord Leycesterʼs Hospi- who built Stonehenge 3,500 to 4,000 years drawback is the screaming children that
tal, quickly spur your imagination to picture ago. For these people
English town life 500 years ago. (1/2 hr from who worshipped the
Birmingham; 2 1/2 hrs from London.) Sun and Moon as
Stratford-upon-Avon, while an impressive gods, Stonehenge
town, is unfortunately over-touristed. But if probably served as an
you are a Shakespeare buff, you may be will- astronomical calendar
ing to endure the tour-bus hordes; there are to pinpoint celestial
plenty of Shakespeare memorabilia, including events of religious
his birthplace, a 16th-century half-timbered importance like the
30 Budget Europe Travel Service Rail Questions ? Call 800-441-2387, 800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
sometimes overrun the town while on school
outings. (90 mins from London.)
London is a vast city with a bevy of main
sights, including the Tower of London,
London Eye (a 443-foot-high observation
wheel), Buckingham Palace (interior open
August-September), Changing of the Guard,
Kensington Palace, St. Paulʼs Cathedral,
British Museum (literally crammed with
artifacts from across the globe — check out
its touted new atrium courtyard), National
Gallery (one of the worldʼs finest repositories
of European art), Tate Modern Gallery
(whose stellar haul of post-1900 international
art occupies a former power plant), Tate Brit-
ain Gallery (a superb collection of British
art), the eclectic Victoria & Albert Museum,
Shakespeareʼs faithfully rebuilt Globe Thea-
ter, Westminster Abbey, Houses of Parlia-
ment, Big Ben, Madame Tussaudʼs Wax
Museum, Trafalgar Square, oft-thronged
Piccadilly Circus, and Covent Garden Mar-
ket (an ancient market hall now a warren of
boutiques, market stalls and eateries).
But there is much more to London than its
museums — allow a day for just exploring at
will. Visit any of Londonʼs great parks, like
Green Park, St. Jamesʼs Park, Kensington
Gardens, Regentʼs Park, or Hyde Park,
where on Sundays at Speakersʼ Corner
anyone can take to a soapbox and pontificate
to critical crowds. If shopping is your bag,
shop Oxford Street, Londonʼs busiest shop-
ping drag; or Knightsbridge, an area with
spiffy shops, such as Harrods, one of the
worldʼs most elegant department stores; or
colorful street markets like Camden Lock
(weekends), Portobello Road (Saturdays;
antiques) and Petticoat Lane (Sunday morn-
ings). First-rate theater is plentiful; nab half-
price tickets for many plays, except smash
hits, in Leicester Square at the “official”
Society of London Theatre “tkts” Ticket
Booth (Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-4pm
for matinees only; by the Hampshire Hotel;
www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk).
On Londonʼs outskirts are Henry VIIIʼs
dazzling Hampton Court Palace, called
Railpass or Ticket Prices ?
Britainʼs finest palace; Windsor Castle, in
the cute Thames town of Windsor; “flower-
ful” Kew Gardens; Greenwich and its super
Royal Observatory, Old Royal Naval Col-
lege, Queenʼs House, National Maritime
Museum, and Cutty Sark clipper ship.
Britain to the Continent
Eurostar offers frequent direct rail
service running via the Channel Tunnel
or “Chunnel” between London and Paris
or Brussels, speeding from city center to
city center in under three hours. Though
railpasses are not valid on Eurostar, many
passes qualify for special passholder
fares. (For details and prices of Eurostar
tickets, call BETS or go to our website,
www.budgeteuropetravel.com.)
Buy your Eurostar tickets from BETS!
IRELAND
A visit to the Emerald Isle, in many ways, is
like stepping back in time. This is especially
true in the west of Ireland where traditional
ways still endure — it is common to see
horse-drawn carts on the roads, to smell acrid
blue smoke as it rises from the chimneys of
peat-burning stoves, and to hear Gaelic still
being spoken in the shops and pubs. Many
Irish cities still have a 19th-century “Dicken- Cork is Irelandʼs second largest city and
sian” feeling to them. Though visiting Ireland is worthy of a day stop to see this hilly
is certainly a rewarding experience, it requires port city. The city center, set between two
careful planning and much time as itʼs far re- branches of the River Lee, has a romantic
moved from the main European tourist tracks. feel to it. For a great view of the city, climb
Trains: The Irish rail system is not as exten- to St. Annʼs Church, renowned for its lyri-
sive as other Eurail countries, and the frequency cal bells. Plenty of pubs give vitality to Cork
of service is often only once or twice per day. nights — most have entertainment which
The main rail lines, which radiate spoke-like runs the gamut from rock to traditional Irish
out of Dublin, are not well cross-connected; but folk music.
local buses fill in the gaps. With a bit of plan- Blarney, five miles northwest of Cork,
ning, rail travel is still a good way to see Ire- is home to the ruin of Blarney Castle and
land. The Ireland Flexipass, Eurail Global its famous Blarney Stone. The stone is said
and Eurail Select (with Ireland added) provide to give you a “silver tongue” loquacious-
rail travel in both the Republic of Ireland and ness, but only after precariously dangling
Northern Ireland. These railpasses also give backwards over the castle walls and pressing
30% off on the ferry from Rosslare to France your lips up against it!
(sailings about every other day to either Cher- Killarney is the hub city for County
bourg or Roscoff from February thru Decem- Kerry where mountains, quaint villages
ber; $115 one way without Eurail). The Britain and seascapes combine to create a setting of
& Ireland Flexipass gives rail travel in Ireland, magical beauty. There is little in Killarney
Northern Ireland and Britain. (Call BETS or itself — instead rent a bike and explore the
see www.budgeteuropetravel.com for details.) countryside. The Gap of Dunloe (about
As the isolated West Coast of Ireland is ten miles west of Killarney), a picturesque
the desired destination of most, you need to mountain gorge produced by the last Ice
allow a minimum of one week to see Ireland. Age, makes for an interesting destination.
One possible itinerary for seeing Ireland as Also, from Killarney many begin the
part of a Eurail trip is the following loop that 100-mile circular route of the Iveragh Penin-
covers most of Irelandʼs touristic sites. The sula called the Ring of Kerry. Buses ply the
loop begins at Rosslare Harbor, the arrival route of this luscious, mountain-sided sea-
point of most ferryboats from France. coast — unfortunately, itʼs often shrouded in
Waterford, on the rail line form Rosslare a rainy mist.
to Cork, was once a Viking town, and Tralee and the Dingle Peninsula, a bit
11th-century Reginaldʼs Tower stands as further to the north of Killarney, is the heart
testimony to their presence. Waterford, of the Gaelic-speaking region. Tralee at
however, is most famous for its Waterford the end of the rail line is the gateway to the
Glass — visit the factory to observe crafts- peninsula. From here bus to Dingle, a small
men fashioning the much-prized cut crystal. fishing village with over 50 pubs, which
Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com ! Budget Europe Travel Service 31
 Ferries to Britain or France From Ireland CZECH REPUBLIC
Getting to Britain: There is frequent ferry service from Dublin or Dun Laoghaire (15 mins
The Czech Republic, nestled between
from Dublin) to Holyhead in Wales (crossing time: 2 hrs, $45 one way; Holyhead–London:
Germany and Austria in the heart of Europe,
4 hrs by rail). Eurail, valid for trains in Ireland, gives a 30% discount on the ferry, but is not
is today one of Europeʼs most popular tourist
good in Britain; BritRail, valid for trains in Great Britain, is not good for the ferry; the Britain
destinations.
& Ireland Flexipass covers the trains in both countries, but is also not good for the ferry. For
Trains: The rail system is excellent and for
an off-the-beaten-track way to Britain, ferry first to the Isle of Man. Though part of Britain,
those traveling here, “czech out” the Czech
this lovely island, lying in the Irish Sea between Britain and Ireland, is a quasi-independent
Flexipass, which gives unlimited rail travel in
state. Here you can enjoy a beautiful walk along the wild seacoast, take a ride (albeit bumpy)
the Czech Republic; or consider the regional
on the vintage Victorian steam railway (runs 15 miles from one side of the island to the other),
European East Flexipass, which gives
or visit the Manx Cattery, where the famous tailless Manx cats are bred for export.
unlimited rail travel in the Czech Republic,
Getting to France: Irish Ferries cruise from Rosslare, Ireland to Roscoff or Cherbourg
Slovakia, Poland, Hungary and Austria. (See
in France. Boats leave at night and arrive around noon the next day. These ferries are
www.budgeteuropetravel.com for details of
30% off with a Eurailpass, $115 one way without. Ferry service is about every other day to
all passes valid in the Czech Republic.)
either Cherbourg or Roscoff from March thru December.
Prague is without a doubt one of Europeʼs
makes a good base for exploring the peninsula. and St. Johnʼs Cathedral, all surrounded as most beautiful cities; amazingly, in view of
Make sure you walk along the spectacular they were centuries ago by the Barbican, the Europeʼs destructive war history, Prague has
coastline or rent a bike and ride to the end of rebuilt town ramparts. Lazienki Park is home suffered very little damage over the centuries
the peninsula (about ten miles from Dingle) to the Palace on the Water and the Chopin and is an architectural spectacle to behold.
where the Atlantic waves crash against the Monument. The Baroque Wilanów Palace, There are many must sights, but most are
Irish coast. Also in the vicinity, there are many the Versailles of Poland, is as popular and as clustered in two areas, near the Prague
archaeological remains left behind by early- crowded as its French counterpart. Castle and the Old Town Square.
Christian monks. Kraków (3 hrs south of Warsaw), Polandʼs One can spend most of a day exploring the
Limerick, a transportation hub, can serve as medieval capital, should be the prime focus of castle complex, still the official residence of
a convenient base for seeing the West Country any trip to Poland. Must sights are its cobbled the president, and the squares that surround
if your time is short — there are bus day trips old quarter, with its spacious Main Market the castle. Foremost is the Gothic St. Vitus
from here to the surrounding sights at Galway, Square, immense Cloth Hall, 58 churches Cathedral. Under construction for over
the Dingle Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry. including the Gothic St. Maryʼs Church; 600 years, its stained-glass windows are
Shannon Airport is nearby. Wawel Hill crowned with the Royal Castle among the loveliest ever crafted. “Good King”
Dublin should not be your reason for com- and the monumental Wawel Cathedral; and Wenceslas is buried in the cathedral. Close
ing to Ireland; while itʼs the Irish capital, it has Kazimierz, one of Europeʼs most vibrant to the cathedral is the Old Royal Palace, a
little of the splendor usually associated with Jewish quarters prior to WWII, where you can late-Gothic masterpiece. Make sure that you
capital cities. But it makes a good departing visit the Old Synagogue, today a museum of find Golden Lane at the far end of the castle
point for ferrying to Britain and eventually Jewish culture. hill complex. This narrow street, named for al-
the Continent. Dublin is an easy city to see A must day trip from Kraków is to the chemists who supposedly worked here chang-
on foot: start with the most gracious part of notorious Auschwitz Concentration Camp ing lead into gold, consists of tiny little shops
Dublin — Trinity College and the area around (near Oswiecim; 2 hrs). Also worth a visit is and houses built right into the fortress walls.
St. Stephenʼs Green. There are many fine the Wieliczka Salt Mine (30 mins), where Kafka wrote for a time at number 22.
churches with Christ Church Cathedral Polish miners over the centuries have carved The centerpiece of the remarkable Old Town
and St. Patrickʼs Cathedral being the most thousands of salt sculptures including the Square, lined with patrician houses, is Old
famous. The Guinness Brewery, a highlight expansive Blessed St. Kingaʼs Chapel that is Town Hall. On the hour, a crowd gathers to
of any trip to Dublin, not only offers tours but lit by salt-crystal chandeliers. watch the clock in the tower where the Skel-
free stout (during pub hours only). Dublin is Czestochowa (4 hrs southwest of Warsaw) eton of Death rings out the hours.
best known for its night entertainment; there is is world renowned for its Jasna Góra Monas- Charles Bridge, which connects the Old
excellent theater, plenty of dancing spots, plus tery housing the venerated religious icon, the Town with the Lesser Town, is a wonderful
the “singing” pubs where Irish folk music is Black Madonna. place to take a stroll. Day and night, street
on center stage. Malbork Castle (40 mins southeast of musicians, artists and other unique acts display
Gdansk), the headquarters of the Teutonic their talents from one end of the pedestrian
stone bridge to the other. You can see the
POLAND Knights, was destroyed in WWII, but has been
famous red roofs of Prague from the top of the
faithfully rebuilt to its original grandeur.
Poland can easily be added on to a Eurail For a more in-depth Polish experience, tower at the end of the bridge on the Lesser
extravaganza. And with its glut of interest- consider stopping off at any of the following, Town side.
ing historic towns, many of which are still all of which have historic old town centers: Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad), near the German
rarely visited by tourists, Poland can make an Gdansk (3 1/2 hrs northwest of Warsaw border, was one of Europeʼs grand 19th-
intriguing adventure. on the Baltic Sea), Poznan (3 hrs west of century spa towns. You can still try to cure
Trains: The Polish State Railways offers Warsaw), Torun (3 hrs northwest of Warsaw), your ailments at the modern thermal pools
one of the densest rail networks, with frequent Lublin (2 1/2 hrs southeast of Warsaw) and open to the public.
service to most Polish cities. Passes valid for Zamosc (3 hrs southeast of Lublin). Ceske Budejovice, 90 miles south of
travel in Poland are the Poland Flexipass; the The Great Mazurain Lake District (3 hrs Prague, makes a good base from which to
regional European East Flexipass, which north of Warsaw) is a haven for nature lovers, explore much of southern Bohemia, such
gives unlimited rail travel in Poland, Slovakia, as are the Tatra Mountains, which straddle as Cesky Krumlov, a small jewel with an
Hungary, Austria and the Czech Republic; and the border of Poland and Slovakia, with peaks impressive castle and a wonderful old quarter,
the Poland & Germany Flexipass. (Call or go ranging up to 8,000 feet high. Zakopane and Tabor, which also has an interesting
to www.budgeteuropetravel.com for prices.) (3 hrs south of Kraków), with a turn-of-the- historic town center with a castle.
Warsaw, the capital city, though reduced to century rustic look, is Polandʼs winter capital Brno, the capital of Moravia, is worth a look
rubble in WWII, has a miraculously restored and the hub for the Polish Tatras. for its well-preserved old town district.
old quarter with the painstakingly rebuilt
Royal Castle, Old Town Market Square, �� Rail Questions ? Just Call BETS: 800-441-9413 or 800-441-2387 ��
32 Budget Europe Travel Service To Order: Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !

Rail is Our specialty!
Before buying any railpass, call BETS and
make sure you are getting the best pass for
your trip.
• Our rail experts can tell you in a few min-
utes the best rail route for the places you
wish to visit.
• We can make a comparison of the cost of
point-to-point rail tickets versus that of a
railpass, taking into account the cost of any
supplements required with the railpass.
• We can explain the pros and cons of rail
tickets and railpasses.
• We can tell you all about Europe’s most
scenic train rides, and how to fit them into
your itinerary.
• We can tell you about train reservations:
• When they are required.
• Which trains are hard to reserve and
should be booked as early as possible.
• How and where to make them in
Europe.
• About sleeper reservations on night
trains.
• We can answer a host of other rail ques-
tions such as when to get to the station;
how to find your train; what to do with your
luggage; how seats differ in first and second
class; what sleeper trains are like.
Call BETS !
800-441-9413 or 800-441-2387
Mon – Fri 9am – 5pm (Eastern)
Making Seat Reservations
When you buy your railpass or point-
to-point tickets from BETS, we can make
your rail reservations at the same time.
You avoid the hassles of lines, the time
lost, the language difficulties faced
abroad, and, most importantly, you know
far in advance that your travel plans are
guaranteed. Alternatively, if you need to
keep your plans flexible, reservations can
be made in Europe at a rail station, sub-
ject to availability of course. When mak-
ing reservations at the last minute, you
should have a backup plan in case your
desired train is sold out.
Note: BETS will always try to get
your party prized window seats and all
grouped together.
Overnight Trains
As there are not a great number of beds on any given overnight sleeper train, reservations
should be made as soon as possible, especially on popular routes such as the trains from
Paris to Italy and Spain.
Most night trains carry double compartments and triple and/or quad compartments plus
couchettes (6 person compartments). Some night trains also provide reclining seats.
Reservations can be made up to 60 days ahead, but on many international night trains,
berths can be reserved 90 days out.
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
RAIL RESERVATION TIPS
A railpass or open point-to-point ticket pur-
chased here in the US covers the rail fare on
most European trains, but does not guaran-
tee a seat. And though most European trains
do NOT require that you have seat reserva-
tions, nor is there usually a problem finding
an available seat when you hop aboard, you
do have the option on many trains to make
seat reservations, guaranteeing, for example,
a window seat or seats together for your
group on a specific train for a specified date
and time.
Local/Regional Trains
Across all of Europe, local or regional
trains are usually not reservable. At peak
travel times try to board early to get a seat
especially in second class, but you will be
allowed to board even if you have to stand.
Intercity Trains
Seat reservations can be made on all inter-
city trains; however, on many intercity trains,
a seat reservation is not formally required.
That means that if you have a railpass, you
can just board the train and sit any unre-
served seat. And if the train is full, you may
have to sit apart from your traveling partner
or in the worst case scenario even stand until
a seat opens up, but you will be able to get
on the train. A big advantage of a first-class
railpass is that finding a seat is usually not a
problem except at very peak travel times. On
long train rides, you should probably make a
seat reservation just to ensure that youʼre not
surprised to find a very crowded train when
you hop aboard, especially if you are travel-
ing with others and wish to sit together.
In many countries, you must reserve all
intercity or international trains. Getting on
one of these trains without the required seat
reservation will result in being charged a fee
several times the cost of a normal reservation
if there are seats available; if not, you may
be asked to leave the train at the next stop. If
ever needing to board a reserved-only train
without a reservation, always ask, as politely
as possible, the conductor before getting on
the train. He/she will know if there are avail-
able seats and be able to tell you what the
charge will be.
Country by Country Run Down
Austria
Seats may be reserved on all intercity
trains, but they are not required. Reserva-
tions required on trains to Italy.
Belgium
Seat reservations are not available on do-
mestic intercity routes. Thalys trains to Am-
sterdam, Cologne and Paris require the pay-
ment of a passholder reservation fee; higher
in first-class, as an obligatory meal is served
at your seat. If not wishing the meal, first-
class railpass holders can save money by
sitting in second class. ICE trains to and
from Germany also require reservations.
Britain
Reservations are not required, but possible
on most intercity trains; reservations are
normally free of charge when made in Brit-
ain. Eurostar trains to Brussels and Paris
must be reserved and should be done as early
as possible as passholder seats are limited
(can be done as much as nine months in
advance); a special passholder fare applies.
Czech Republic
Reservations are available on most inter-
city trains. International trains to Poland
require reservations. On routes to Germany
and Austria, reservations are advised; how-
ever, between Prague and Vienna, reserva-
tions are required on SuperCity (SC), though
not on the EuroCity (EC) trains.
Denmark
Reservations are available on domestic
intercity trains and strongly recommended at
peak times. EuroCity trains to Hamburg,
Germany and X2000 trains to Sweden re-
quire reservations.
Finland
Reservations are available on all intercity
trains and first-class reservations usually
include the cost of a light meal/snack.
France
Reservations are required on all TGV ser-
vices and on most international trains. For
non-TGV intercity trains, reservations are
mandatory on some routes and only advised
on others. Only by checking the timetables,
can you know if a seat reservation is required.
French Rail slots a limited number of
passholder seats on each train, and it can be
very hard to reserve seats at peak times on
popular routes (especially the Paris-Nice
route) even when trying several weeks in
advance, let alone at the last minute. Reserva-
tions for French trains can be made 90 days
before the trainʼs departure date, and we
strongly advise you to make them as early as
possible if you need to be on a certain train.
Germany
Reservations are available for all intercity
or intercity express (ICE) trains. In first-class
usually finding unreserved seats is not a prob-
lem, but for long trips or at peak travel times
(i.e. morning and afternoon commuting peri-
ods), reservations are advised. Railpasses
cover all supplements for ICE trains, except
for a handful on ICE Sprinters that a tourist
probably would never encounter (they run
usually very early in the morning only be-
tween Frankfurt-Munich/Berlin/Hamburg).
Hungary
Reservations are required on most domes-
tic intercity trains. On trains to Vienna or
Budget Europe Travel Service 33
Prague, reservations are available; trains to
Romania require reservations.
Italy
Reservations are required on most intercity
trains. EuroCity (EC), Cisalpino (CIS) and all
international trains into or out of Italy mandate
seat reservations. On older InterCity (IC)
trains, reservations are not formally required,
but strongly advised because seats are not
marked “reserved” and you may be evicted
from your seat by someone holding a reserva-
tion for that seat.
For the high-speed Eurostar (ES) trains a
reservation is required and it comes at a
higher price as it includes a supplement for
the privilege of riding this deluxe train and
for some extra on-board services (beverage,
newspaper). Eurostars run on many routes,
but can usually be avoided on most routes if
you wish to save money; however, on the
routes between Milan-Florence-Rome and
Venice-Florence-Rome, they are often the
only practical choice. Once you get past the
extra cost, you will enjoy riding these very
comfortable trains.
Norway
Reservations are strongly recommended on
the intercity routes between Oslo-Bergen,
Oslo-Stavanger, Oslo-Trondheim and
Trondheim-Bodø. Reservations are available
on trains to Göteborg and Stockholm in Swe-
den.
Poland
Reservations are required on most interna-
tional and on many domestic intercity trains.
Sweden
Reservations are required on all intercity
X2000 trains and first-class often includes the
price of a meal/snack served at your seat. On
other reservable trains, reserved seats are not
labeled — you may be asked to move when
someone boards holding a reservation for
your seat. Trains to Oslo can also be reserved.
Spain
All intercity trains must be reserved. On
premier trains, such as the AVE, a meal/
snack, appropriate to the time of day, is in-
cluded in the cost of a first-class (preferente)
seat reservation. Reservations in second class
are cheaper as no meal is served and people
with first-class passes can sit in second class
if they donʼt wish the meal. When making a
reservation in Spain always ask what the fee
is before buying — if it is over $20, probably
you are also paying for a meal.
Switzerland
Domestic intercity trains do not require
reservations and because of the high frequen-
cy of service, it is usually not a problem to
get a seat except at peak commuter times.
Reservations are available on international
trains to Austria and Germany and required
on TGV trains to France and all trains to Italy.
Panoramic observation cars, available on
many scenic rail routes, often mandate seat
reservations, but even if optional, you should
reserve if hoping to get a window seat. Ob-
servation cars can be reserved 90 days out.
34 Budget Europe Travel Service
NEED ITINERARY HELP ? Call BETS and Talk to the Rail Experts !
When you call BETS, you will talk to an
expert, NOT a “temp” who doesnʼt even
know where Europe is! The BETS team
have been railpassing in Europe annually
for years. And that is why you will find
us to be your best resource when planning
your trip...because we have actually done
it ourselves! And we are happy to share our
experiences with one and all! So just call!
Most firms will only give you limited ad-
vice before you buy and almost none after
you buy, but weʼll give you our best advice
before and after you buy your pass from
Timetables on the Web
Looking for rail, boat and bus schedules?
Here are a few handy websites that provide
the lowdown.
www.bahn.de • The BETS staffersʼ favor-
ite, and most used, website is provided by the
German Railways, giving schedules for your
specific travel dates for trains in any European
country. Gives you train numbers, travel times,
intermediate stops and reservation require-
ments. It even has a mapping function so that
you can see the route of your train. As there is
a schedule change in December and June of
each year, you might not find a schedule for
a date in September if searching in March; in
this case, use a fake date prior to June for the
same day of the week, and the schedule that
pops up will serve for planning purposes as it
will usually be identical or close to the actual
schedule for your September travel date.
www.nationalrail.co.uk • Provides rail
schedules for England, Scotland and Wales.
www.irishrail.ie • Get rail schedules for
Ireland.
www.buseireann.ie • Provides schedules
for bus service in Ireland.
Tips for Reserving in Europe
At the reservation window in the train
station, show the clerk your railpass and,
if you donʼt speak the language, a note
with the following info:
• departure and arrival cities using the
spelling off the Eurail map
(i.e. Milano→Roma)
• travel date using European format
(i.e. 30/12 or 30 Dec)
• departure time using the 24-hour
clock (i.e. 1300 for 1pm)
• number of passengers
• travel class (1 Cl. or 2 Cl. as indicated
on railpass)
• seat info (i.e. window or aisle; some-
times you can ask for forward-facing
seats)
Before leaving, check everything over
for correctness! Note: Reservations made
in Europe often must be self-validated in
machines on the platform before boarding
your train!
To Order, Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
us! Why not buy from the experts? Weʼve
ridden just about every kind of train from
milk-run locals to premier 200-mile-per-
hour TGVs to overnight sleeper trains. We
have ridden the scenic trains, such as the
Bernina, Glacier, Panoramic and Bergen
“expresses”... enjoyed fabulous cruises on
the Swiss lakes and the Rhine...hiked in
the Alps and along the Cinque Terre...you
name it, weʼve probably done it!
If you need help planning your
rail itinerary, please call BETS!
www.glacierexpress.ch • Gives sched-
ules for the Glacier Express train between
St. Moritz, Chur and Zermatt in Switzerland.
www.rhb.ch • Gives schedules for
the Bernina Express train between Chur,
St. Moritz in Switzerland and Tirano in Italy.
www.goldenpass.ch • Get schedules
for the Golden Pass train between Luzern,
Interlaken and Montreux in Switzerland.
www.jungfraubahn.ch • Get schedules
and details for the train that goes from Inter-
laken via Wengen or Gridelwald to the top of
the Jungfrau glacier in Switzerland.
www.k-d.com • Get schedules for the KD
boats on the Rhine and Mosel rivers.
www.deutsche-touring.com • Gives
schedules and fares for the Romantic Road
bus in Germany.
www.ddsg-blue-danube.at • The DDSG
company provides schedules and fares for
the Danube riverboats in Austria.
www.norwayinanutshell.com • Get rail,
bus and ferry schedules for the “Norway in a
Nutshell” loop.
www.vesuviana.it • Gives schedules for
the regional Circumvesuviana trains in Italy
that connect Naples to Pompeii and Naples
to Sorrento on the Amalfi Peninsula.
www.irishferries.com • The Irish Ferries
company gives schedules and fares for their
France-Ireland ferries.
www.hml.it • The Hellenic Mediterra-
nean Line provides schedules and fares for
their Italy-Greece ferries.
www.bluestarferries.com • The Blue
Star Ferries company gives schedules and
fares for their Italy-Greece ferries.
www.superfast.com • The Superfast Fer-
ries company provides schedules and fares for
their Italy-Greece ferries and other routes.
www.stenaline.com • The Stena Line
gives schedules and fares for their Britain-
Ireland, intra-Scandinavian and other ferries.
www.tallinksilja.com • The Tallink Silja
Line provides schedules and fares for their
Sweden-Finland ferries and other routes.
www.transmediterranea.net • Trans-
mediterranea gives schedules and fares for
their ferries to Morocco, Mallorca and Ibiza.
www.calmac.co.uk • The Caledonian
MacBrayne company provides schedules and
fares for their ferries to the Scottish islands.
 LUGGAGE CONCERNS
• Regardless of the length of your
trip, we highly recommend that you
limit yourself to only a single piece
of medium-sized luggage and that it comes
fitted with a good set of wheels. The wheels
are the key — well-designed packs roll ef-
fortlessly along even over bumpy cobble-
stones. The best ones that we have found for
travel are the style that flight attendants and
pilots use, rather than a duffle bag on wheels
or a large suitcase on wheels. At train sta-
tions, porters or luggage trolleys are seldom
available; and as many trains are a quarter
of a mile in length, having a smoothly roll-
ing bag is more of a necessity rather than a
convenience.
• The size of your travel bag should be
as small as possible, as youʼll have to carry
it! When comparison shopping, donʼt try to
buy the largest bag available, even if it is the
same price as a smaller one. Itʼs a mistake to
think youʼre getting “more for your money”
— stay at or under 4,800 cubic inches. If you
canʼt fit your belongings in a bag of that size
with room to spare, youʼre taking too much!
Anyone who has been to Europe invariably
will say that they over-packed and would
take a lot less the next time!
• Invest in baggage with several outside
pockets to help organize your load, and
make sure itʼs made by a reputable manufac-
turer offering a Lifetime Guarantee — and
you really canʼt go wrong!
• Along with your travel gear, take a small
day bag. Even the lightest of luggage gets
heavy when trudging around a city. When
you arrive in a city, put your baggage into a
train station locker or luggage checkroom,
and take what you need for the day or night
in your small daypack — then youʼll hardly
have to carry your baggage around at all.
And these lockers and luggage checkrooms
are as safe as your hotel or hostel room.
PACKING POINTERS
• Packing light and smart are your #1
goals! Strive to be as self-contained and
practical as possible, for you will be carrying
your “home” in your bag and you will have
to lug and lift it. Bring only those belongings
that you are certain to use often — NEVER
bring anything that will be rarely used. Any-
thing that you forget, or find you need, can
be purchased easily in Europe (though you
should bring an extra supply of prescription
medication, any out-of-the-ordinary sham-
poos or soaps, extra eyeglasses or contacts,
etc.). Aim to pack your bag three-fourths full
in order to leave room for expansion — un-
doubtedly, youʼll be buying souvenirs and
gifts. Remember, most travelers, as they be-
come accustomed to their new transient way
of life, tend to do things differently abroad
than at home and get by with a lot less!
• Take dark-colored, wrinkle-resistant
clothes as they wonʼt show the rigors of
Questions ? Call BETS
We have actually ridden Europe’s
trains, such as the Glacier Express !
Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !
TRAVEL TIPS
travel so quickly. Experts say that cotton-
polyester blends hold up the best.
• Since laundries are less common and
more expensive in Europe, you may find
yourself occasionally washing a few things
by hand — remember this when choosing
what to bring.
• Itʼs OK to splurge and bring more of the
smaller, lightweight items, such as socks,
underwear and shirts; but cut back on the
larger, heavier items, such as trousers, sweat
shirts, polartecs and sweaters. Bring a total
of three pairs of trousers (or two trousers and
one skirt) and two sweaters or sweat shirts.
• For versatility, make sure that you can
mix and match all clothing. Bring clothing
that can be worn casually as well as “out on
the town.” Once again, donʼt bring anything
that will be seldom used.
• Layering is the best approach to the cli-
mate in northern Europe where summers are
cool (highs often only in the 60s and lows
in the 50s), the weather is subject to quick
changes and there is a fair amount of rain.
Wear several light layers — shirt, sweater,
raincoat — then you can easily adjust to any
temperature!
• A lightweight raincoat, a rain hat (or
hood) and/or a small umbrella are essential
if you are touring northern Europe with its
marine-type climate and plentiful rain.
• Two pairs of COMFORTABLE shoes are
a must as most travelers do lots of walking.
Many people find waterproofed dark-colored
walking or athletic shoes ideal; sandals are
nice as your second pair of shoes if touring
southern Europe. DONʼT bring shoes that are
not extremely comfy as they will never see
the light of day! Hiking boots are unneces-
sary unless youʼre planning “serious” hiking;
otherwise theyʼre too bulky and heavy.
• As most folks buy souvenir clothing
when abroad, pack lighter now by leaving at
home types of clothes youʼre likely to buy!
• Miscellaneous essentials: pocket knife
with a corkscrew and can opener; small
flashlight; zip-lock bags in which to store
your “spillables”; first aid kit; needle and
thread; enough prescription or cold-care
medicine to last for your whole trip;
spare eyeglasses or contacts; a small
supply of toiletries like soap, sham-
poo, razors, etc. (all of which can
be easily replenished in Europe). Optional
items: camera; alarm clock; clothes line and
small bottle of detergent; a towel and wash-
cloth; small water bottle; shower thongs.
• A map of the area you are visiting is
useful when planning your itinerary. As
guidebooks are heavy, take only one or two,
or consider copying (or tearing out) just the
sections that are needed. If youʼre not multi-
lingual, a phrase book will come in handy.
USING ELECTRICITY ABROAD
Though you may be traveling to the far
corners of the world, you can still take along
some of the comforts of home, such as a hair
dryer, and use them! Just bring a converter
or a transformer and an adapter plug set!
Because most of the world operates on
220-volt alternating current (220V AC) and
your appliances are designed to operate on
the US 110V AC, it is necessary to convert
the foreign electricity to 110V AC! Failure
to do so will result in one seriously damaged
appliance, one very disgruntled traveler and
a possible electrical fire.
• Converters/Transformers: Youʼll need
a converter or a transformer that will cut
in half the number of volts flowing to your
appliance. Converters do the job for simple
electric appliances, such as hair dryers and
steam irons. Transformers are used with
more complex electronic equipment, such
as computers, stereos, battery chargers, etc.
Though simple electric appliances can be
used with either a transformer or converter,
complex electronic equipment must ONLY
be used with a transformer. Transformers are
capable of continuous use, but converters
should be used only for short periods.
Converters and transformers are designed
to work over a specific wattage range, and
should NOT be used with any appliance
whose rated wattage does not fall within the
specified range. Check carefully the voltage
and wattage information which comes with
your appliance, and use only the type of
converter or transformer designed to work
with the wattage of your appliance, or risk
destroying your appliance!
• Adapter Plugs: As electric wall outlets
around the world differ in shape, arrange-
ment and number of holes, youʼll need
adapter plugs to plug your converter or
transformer and appliance into the wall. Just
check the wall outlet, snap the proper plug
onto the correct converter or transformer,
plug your appliance into the converter or
transformer — and youʼre all set! Remember,
adapter plugs do NOT convert voltage.
• Dual-voltage appliances are designed
to work on either 110V AC or 220V AC; no
need for an additional converter or trans-
former. They are, however, equipped with
US-type plugs, so you must have the proper
adapter plugs to use them abroad.
• Always check the type of current (AC
or DC) and voltage (110V or 220V) of a
foreign outlet before plugging in! Converters
Budget Europe Travel Service 35
or transformers will NOT work with
direct current (DC) which is found
in some countries and on some ships
and planes, nor will they work in a
110V outlet. Both the appliance and
converter or transformer could be damaged
or ruined if used improperly. If unsure of the
voltage or type of current, just ask!
• Some hotels in foreign cities have 110V
outlets marked “For Shavers Only” — do
NOT use these for higher-wattage devices.
• American appliances operate on 60 cy-
cles, while foreign electricity uses 50 cycles.
Though your electric appliance may oper-
ate slightly slower than normal, it wonʼt be
harmed. This, however, can be a problem
for some electronic devices; check with the
manufacturer before using these overseas.
• For more info, read Foreign Electricity
Travel Advice at www.austinhouse.com.
PASSPORTS & MONEY MATTERS
• Passports, valid for ten years (five years
if under 16), are mandatory for entry into all
European countries and for re-entry into your
own country. For details on passport require-
ments, call your main post office or county
clerkʼs office, or go to the travel.state.gov
web site. To obtain your first passport, you
must apply in person (with two passport
photos and your birth certificate) at a US
passport agency office, post office or county
clerkʼs office in your area. Unless you live
near one of the few cities with a walk-in US
passport agency office, allow at least two
months for processing your passport applica-
tion. Faster processing may be achieved if
you pay for express mail delivery and a hefty
expedited-processing fee!
• Always carry dollar travelerʼs checks
when traveling instead of a large amount of
cash. If your checks are lost or stolen, they
can be replaced — cash cannot be replaced!
When you purchase travelerʼs checks, be
sure to get a list of European phone numbers
to call in the event of loss. All major brands
of checks are accepted at European banks.
Protect Your Valuables
A moneybelt or neck pouch is essential
to protect yourself against loss or theft of
your valuables — be smart, donʼt be sorry
— always wear one! Carry your passport,
travelerʼs checks, cash, railpass, charge
cards, etc., comfortably concealed under
your clothing in a moneybelt or neck
pouch AT ALL TIMES, even if youʼre just
going down the hallway to the toilet or
shower. For maximum protection, wear
it hidden on the front of your body so
that if necessary you can keep your eyes
on it or fold your arms across it. Though
pickpocketing and other thefts are not
a major problem everywhere, always
exercise caution, especially in crowded
places — such as subways, train stations,
street markets and other heavily trafficked
areas. Remember, it is a hassle to have
to replace your passport and travelerʼs
checks — so try to avoid it by not being
an easy target! (See page C-13 to choose
your moneybelt or neck pouch.)
36 Budget Europe Travel Service
TRAVEL TIPS
• Always carry a small amount of cash
either in US dollars or another major cur-
rency in case you need to exchange only a
little bit of money. If you find that your funds
are running low just before youʼre ready to
leave a country, you may opt to exchange
a small sum of cash instead of a single $20
travelerʼs check so as to avoid the $3-6 check
transaction fee that some countries charge.
• Charge cards such as VISA, American
Express and MasterCard are widely accepted
in Europe, but NOT at many smaller or
budget stores, restaurants or hotels! The
exchange rates used by the credit card com-
panies are usually among the best, but check
with your card company as some add foreign
exchange fees. Cash advances are also easy
to get — but beware that these transactions
are subject to predatory interest rates from
the moment you receive the cash.
The Euro
A single currency, the euro, is now being
used in Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Finland,
France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Lux-
embourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Portugal,
Slovakia, Slovenia and Spain. All other coun-
tries still use their own unique currencies.
• Bank ATMs (automated teller machines)
are all over Europe. Many are affiliated with
the Cirrus and Plus networks that we use at
home, allowing you to withdraw funds from
a European bank ATM in that countryʼs cur-
rency while your checking account at home
is debited in dollars. A fee per transaction is
charged, but the exchange is carried out at
the “interbank rate” — the best rate possible.
Cirrus and Plus now cover most of Europe,
but, as there are still a few gaps, contact your
local bank for ATM locations abroad. At
most bank ATMs, you can also use your Visa
or MasterCard to obtain foreign currency;
but, beware, Visa and MasterCard treat these
transactions as cash advances and charge
interest from the execution date.
• Foreign currency travelerʼs checks are
not necessary for the average traveler visit-
ing several countries. Itʼs best to exchange
dollar travelerʼs checks and/or use bank
ATMs to get cash in the local currency.
• Donʼt exchange dollars for foreign
currency or foreign currency travelerʼs
checks before leaving home! This is one
of the best money-saving tips we can give
you. American banks weʼve checked, espe-
cially those at American airports, pay lower
exchange rates compared to rates in Europe
and will tack on an additional service charge
that could otherwise be avoided. In Europe,
however, the airport banks or airport bank
ATMs pay higher rates and WILL ALWAYS
BE OPEN when your flight lands — youʼll
be dollars ahead by changing there.
• How often should you change money?
Because in most countries you are charged
a transaction fee each time you change
To Order, Call 1-800-441-2387 or 1-800-441-9413 or 734-668-0529 !
money, the best rule of thumb is to
change money as few times as pos-
sible per currency so as to minimize
the expense of transaction fees and
maximize your return! Of course, you must
consider the number of days using the cur-
rency and the amount of cash you wish to
carry. Your best bet is to project your costs
for your stay (daily cost multiplied by num-
ber of days using that specific currency) and
change money only once or twice per cur-
rency if staying a short time. Your goal is to
cover your expenses without running out of
money or having much leftover foreign cur-
rency to reconvert.
• In Europe, use banks or bank ATMs
whenever possible to get cash in the local
currency. The exchange rates offered and
transaction fees charged at banks are optimal
when compared to other non-bank money-
exchange agencies in airports, train stations
and other touristed areas. As nearly every
bank changes money, you may wish to com-
pare exchange rates and fees between banks
to locate the best deal — but for the average
traveler, exchanging relatively small amounts
of money, the cash saved may be negligible.
• Avoid private non-bank money-
exchange agencies! Outside of banking
hours in most large cities, you can usually
find non-bank agencies open if youʼre in
a bind, but the exchange rates offered are
generally lower and transaction fees charged
higher. Although they may be OK in a pinch,
be sure to compare rates — many of these
advertise “deceitfully” high rates without
mentioning their hefty transaction charges.
• Wiring funds abroad can be easily done;
but since the fees are steep, donʼt rely on this
method unless you are totally out of funds.
American Express and Western Union both
offer such services.
Theft-Proof Travel
In most of the tales of thievery weʼve
heard, carelessness contributed to the
theft. Besides wearing a moneybelt or
neck pouch, there are a few other theft
prevention measures to practice. No mat-
ter what type of day bag you choose, it
should never be worn out of your view,
especially in very crowded surroundings
— donʼt make a pickpocketʼs day easy!
When in a bustling hubbub, move your
daypack to the side or front of your body
and firmly grasp it under your arm. Youʼll
prevent a would-be thief from easily
removing a valuable item out of your pack
unbeknownst to you. Never stow valuable
items in outer pockets or near pocket
openings of your day bag, instead “bury”
such items at the bottom of your bag.
Travelers should always avoid carrying
purses or purse-like bags or fanny/waist
packs as thieves will assume they contain
cash, and may roughly snatch them.
When traveling by train, always keep
your luggage nearby within view and
away from the aisle or doorway — this
will discourage the casual walk-by theft.
If you plan to sleep on the train, you might
wish to use your baggage as a pillow!

US CUSTOMS
Your Personal Exemption
Each person who has been out of the US for
at least 48 hours can bring back items totaling
up to $800 without paying any duty (sub-
ject to limitations on alcohol, cigarettes and
cigars); this exemption can be used only once
every 30 days. If the value of your goods
exceeds that, youʼll pay a flat 3% duty on the
next $1,000 worth of merchandise. Duty on
articles over this $1,800 amount varies for
different goods. Families may combine their
personal exemptions. Thus, a family of four
may bring back $3,200 in goods without pay-
ing duty, even if the articles were all acquired
by a single family member. (Children are
permitted the same exemptions as adults,
except for alcoholic beverages.)
When purchasing any expensive item, be
sure to keep the receipt to show Customs, if
asked. Warning! Donʼt try to “fool” Customs
officials with fake receipts or by wearing
your “excess goods.” Undeclared items that
should have been declared can be confiscated,
and youʼll be liable for a penalty equal to
the value of the item. And if you understate
the value of an article, youʼll have to pay the
duty, and a penalty may be due.
For more information on how excess
amounts or very expensive items are taxed,
consult the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of
the United States, available at most public
libraries, or contact any US Customs office.
For a copy of Know Before You Go, which
gives more details, contact the US Customs
Service at 202-354-1000, or you can visit
their web site (www.customs.gov).
A Few Restricted Articles
Alcohol • People 21 and over can bring
in free of duty one liter (33.8 fl. oz.) of
alcohol. You are subject to paying duty on
any excess. Many states, however, restrict
the amount of alcohol you can import. States
may also collect a booze tax on all alcohol
brought back. Customs enforces the policy
of the state where you enter the US.
Tobacco • Duty-free limit: 100 cigars and
200 cigarettes. Cigarettes, however, may be
subject to a tax imposed by the state and lo-
cal authorities of where you enter the US.
Plants, Fruits and Vegetables • Most
seeds, bulbs, plants, fruits and vegetables
are strictly prohibited from entry unless they
Order From BETS
With your railpass order, we give
• A FREE Rail Map of Europe
• A FREE European Timetable
• NO Handling Fees on ANY Pass
• FREE Shipping* for Most Passes
(* Order 3 weeks prior to departure;
nominal fee for rush FedEx service
within 3 weeks of departure; see
Shipping Details box below.)
800-441-2387 or 800-441-9413
in Ann Arbor, Call 734-668-0529
Mon–Fri 9am-5pm (Eastern)
Rail is Our Specialty !
are certified as being pest-free (they must
have USDA approval) or you have an import
permit — all such items must be declared
to Customs. For more information, contact
the US Department of Agriculture (USDA)
by phone at 301-734-8645, 877-770-5990
or 866-723-4827, or go to their web site at
www.aphis.usda.gov/travel.

AIRPORTS THAT HAVE RAIL LINKS TO THE CITY CENTER

AIRPORT DISTANCE TRAIN TRAVEL DESTINATION STATION IN CITY CENTER
TO CENTER FREQUENCY TIME
Amsterdam-Schiphol 11 miles Every 10 mins 20 mins Central Station
Barcelona-El Prat 9 miles Every 30 mins 20 mins Sants Station & Franca Station
Berlin-Schönefeld 15 miles Every 30 mins 27 mins Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)
Brussels-Zaventem 8 miles Every 20 mins 25 mins Midi / Zuid, Central & Nord Stations
Budapest-Ferihegy 11 miles Every 10-30 mins 25 mins Nyugati Station
Copenhagen-Kastrup 8 miles Every 10 mins 15 mins Hovedbanegård (Main Station)
Frankfurt 6 miles Every 10-15 mins 15 mins Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)
Geneva 3 miles Every 15 mins 9 mins Cornavin Station (Main Station)
London-Heathrow 15 miles Every 15 mins 15 mins Heathrow Express to Paddington Station
Every 10 mins 58 mins Tube to St. Pancras/Kings Cross Station
London-Gatwick 28 miles Every 15 mins 30 mins Gatwick Express to Victoria Station
Every 15-30 mins 50 mins Local Train to St. Pancras Station
London-Luton 31 miles Every 10 mins 35 mins St. Pancras Station (at airport, shuttle bus to rail station)
London-Stanstead 34 miles Every 15 mins 46 mins Liverpool Street Station
Milan-Malpensa 28 miles Every 30 mins 40 mins Cardona Station (there is a bus link to Central Station; 1 hr)
Munich-International 23 miles Every 10 mins 40 mins Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)
Oslo-Gardermoen 30 miles Every 15-30 mins 19 mins Central Station
Paris-Charles de Gaulle 16 miles Every 10-15 mins 35 mins RER (Line B) to Nord Station
Rome-Fiumicino 16 miles Every 30 mins 31 mins Leonardo Express to Termini Station
Every 30 mins 42 mins Local Train to Ostiense & Tiburtina Stations
Stockholm-Arlanda 27 miles Every 15 mins 20 mins Central Station
Vienna-Schwechat 13 miles Every 30 mins 16 mins City Airport Train (CAT) to Mitte Station
Every 30 mins 25 mins Local Train to Mitte Station
Zürich 6 miles Every 10 mins 13 mins Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)

Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com ! Budget Europe Travel Service 37

 Temperature and Rainfall Chart
Note: The first figure is the maximum daily temperature in degrees Fahrenheit; the second is the minimum. Annual rainfall is in inches.
City Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Rainfall
Amsterdam 41/30 43/30 46/30 54/39 63/34 68/52 70/54 70/54 64/48 57/43 46/37 43/34 25.6
Athens 54/43 55/43 61/46 66/52 77/61 84/66 90/72 90/72 82/66 73/61 64/52 57/46 15.1
Berlin 36/27 37/27 46/32 55/37 64/46 70/52 73/55 72/54 66/48 55/41 43/34 37/28 23.1
Brussels 41/28 45/32 50/37 57/41 64/46 72/52 72/54 70/54 68/50 59/46 46/36 41/32 33.0
Budapest 34/25 39/28 50/36 63/45 72/52 79/59 82/61 81/61 73/54 61/45 46/37 39/30 24.2
Copenhagen 36/28 36/28 41/30 50/37 61/45 66/52 72/55 70/54 63/48 54/43 43/36 37/32 23.3
Dublin 48/41 48/41 50/41 54/43 59/48 64/54 66/57 64/55 63/52 57/46 52/45 50/41 29.7
Edinburgh 43/34 43/34 46/37 50/39 55/43 61/48 64/52 63/52 59/48 54/45 48/39 45/36 27.6
Lisbon 55/46 57/46 61/48 64/52 70/55 75/61 79/63 81/64 75/63 70/57 63/52 57/46 27.0
London 46/39 48/39 52/41 57/43 64/48 68/54 73/57 72/57 66/52 59/46 52/41 46/37 23.8
Madrid 48/34 54/34 61/37 66/43 75/48 84/55 93/61 91/61 82/55 68/46 57/39 48/34 16.5
Munich 36/25 39/25 48/30 55/39 64/45 72/50 75/55 73/54 68/48 57/41 41/32 36/28 34.1
Nice 57/43 57/43 61/46 64/50 70/57 77/63 82/68 82/68 79/63 72/57 63/50 57/45 32.3
Oslo 28/21 30/21 37/27 48/34 61/43 70/50 73/55 68/52 61/45 48/37 37/28 30/25 26.9
Paris 45/34 45/34 54/36 61/41 66/46 72/54 75/57 75/55 70/52 61/45 50/39 43/34 22.3
Prague 36/28 39/30 46/36 55/43 66/50 72/57 75/61 73/59 64/54 54/46 45/37 36/30 19.3
Rome 52/37 55/39 59/43 64/48 72/55 81/61 88/64 86/64 79/61 72/54 61/46 54/39 25.7
Stockholm 30/23 30/21 37/27 45/32 57/41 64/48 70/55 66/54 57/46 48/39 37/30 34/27 22.4
Venice 43/32 46/34 54/41 63/48 70/57 77/63 82/66 82/66 77/61 64/52 54/43 46/36 28.6
Vienna 32/23 37/27 45/30 57/39 64/46 72/54 75/57 73/55 66/50 55/41 43/34 34/27 25.6
Warsaw 28/23 39/30 46/36 57/43 66/50 72/57 73/61 72/59 64/54 54/46 43/39 36/30 22.0
Zürich 36/25 43/28 52/34 61/41 68/48 73/54 79/57 77/57 70/52 57/45 45/36 37/28 43.9

Some Scenic Trains Across Europe

There are dozens of scenic rail lin

★ Perpignan to La Tour de across Europe, but we have chosen
Carol and then on to Toulouse: the, in no particular order,
Mountain vistas in the Pyrenees in
southwestern France
bause they are among the most
★ Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh and scenic and can easily fit into
Mallaig to Fort William: Lochs, glens and many of the most common
mountains in Scotlandʼs Highlands
★ Oslo to Bergen and Myrdal to Flåm: rail itinerari.
BE
TS

Fabulous mountain and fjord scenery in Norway

★ Koblenz to Mainz: Impressive views
of the Rhine River Valley in Germany ★ St. Moritz EX
★ Freiburg to Donaueschingen: Enjoy- or Chur to PRES
S
able ride thru the Black Forest of Germany Zermatt: The ultra-
★ Munich to Garmisch-Partenkirchen famous Glacier Express
to Innsbruck and then on to Verona: route across southern Switzerland
Great ride over the Bavarian and Tyrolean ★ Brig to Thun: This scenic route is easy Luzern area, climbs over the
Alps between Germany, Austria and Italy to fit into your trip as it is on the main rail Brünig Pass to Interlaken, and
★ Salzburg to Villach: Gorgeous route line thru the Alps between Italy, the Inter- then zigzags thru more lake and mountain
via the Tyrolean Alps between Austria and laken area in Switzerland and Germany country to Montreux on Lake Geneva
Venice, Italy ★ Interlaken Area: Every mountain ★ Martigny to Chamonix: This
★ Domodossola to Locarno: Majestic train in the area, such as to Grindelwald, awesome route snakes up and over a
Centovalli (“100 Valleys”) route thru the Mürren or Wengen, and especially the steep mountain pass from Switzerland to
Italian-Swiss Alps Jungfrau Railway, to the top of a glacier, Chamonix, France at the base of Mt. Blanc
★ Tirano to St. Moritz or Chur: The are astounding rides ★ Gmunden to Stainach-Irdning:
famed Bernina Express route between Italy ★ Luzern to Interlaken to Montreux: Scenic route thru the “Sound of Music”
and Switzerland via the Bernina Pass The Golden Pass route leaves the Lake Salzkammergut region in Austria
38 Budget Europe Travel Service Railpass or Ticket Prices ? Go to www.budgeteuropetravel.com !