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http://www.nisearch.com/effect-of-yarn-on-fabric-properties/1/
Conclusions:
The good quality of the Denim fabric is a result of weft plied yarn structure. In fact, the
different types of plied yarns and their properties have several effects on the Denim fabric
properties.
The major differences between the Denim fabrics are the linear density of weft plied
yarns and their types. The Denim fabric made of weft ring plied yarns have the most
important properties than the other types of fabric, this is due to the used of ring plied
yarns which have an improvement of mechanical properties. The hybrid plied yarns (weft
Yd=80 tex and 100 tex) give a more important Denim fabrics elongation than the Open
End plied yarns. The abrasion resistance of weft hybrid plied yarns fabrics were very
important than the others fabrics. Tear resistance and breaking strength of Denim fabrics
made of ring and hybrid plied yarns were very close.
This is a guest post by Harry Mercer. This is a part of the presentation that he made in
the denim seminar held recently at Mexico . It gives various tips about getting better
quality denim fabrics by taking care of parameters at finishing stage.
• Tension that is applied to cotton yarns in weaving results in yarns being stretched
beyond their “natural length”.
• When the denim garment is washed, water and agitation relax the yarns and they
are returned to their minimal length.
• Variations in tension at weaving produce variations in fabric shrinkage.
Finishing Recipes
The basic objectives for a denim recipe are:
Sanforizing Lubricant
2. Sewing Lubricants
• During the garment forming, the needles used for sewing become hot because of
friction.
• This heat damages the needle and can also produce holes in the garments.
• A sewing lubricant reduces needle costs and results in better garment quality.
• The garment cutting is also improved.
Stiffening Agents
• Also known as “hand-builders”, these are necessary to stabilize the fabric during
fabric cutting to avoid “snapback”.
• Snapback occurs when the weft yarns are stretched during cutting, then as the
cutting blade moves up, the garment panel shrinks to a width smaller than
planned, which produces a distorted garment.
Finishing Chemicals
• A non-ionic, fatty-acid softener based on stearic acid produces the best
Sanforizing (8 grams of 100% softener per kilogram of fabric)
• Polyethylene-based sewing lubricants are best. ( 2 grams of 100% per kilogram)
• 40 or 90 fluidity tapioca starch is the best hand-builder used for denim.
Finishing Procedure
• Basic denim finishing chemicals should provide improved fabric surface effects
for Sanforizing, cutting and sewing.
• The finishing chemicals should not penetrate into the fabric, so no heat is required
and no wetting agent is necessary.
• For uniformity of chemical application, a wet pick-up of at least 70% should be
used.
1. Temperature
2. Moisture
3. Quantity of Pressure
4. Time of Pressure
1.Critical Temperature
There are 3 critical temperatures:
• If this temperature is too high or too low, the surface of the rubber-belt is not able
to provide consistent compression.
• Generally, cotton fabrics are processed easily between 105 and 125 degrees C.
• Heavyweight denims which arrive from weaving with 12-15% potential shrinkage
require about 140 degrees.
Separate Sanforizing
3.Pressure (% of Compression )
• Sanforizing is a form of “mechanical shrinkage”.
• If a fabric has 12% shrinkage with 20 weft yarns/cm and 3% at 22/cm, then 10%
compression by the rubber belt will result in the weft being pushed together which
increases the weft yarns from 20-22/cm and reduces the shrinkage by 10 points.
4.Time Of Compression
• Denim has a very high % of shrinkage as it arrives from weaving up to 15%.
• The heat, moisture and time of pressure determine the control of shrinkage. - The
time of pressure is determined by the speed of Sanforizing.
• Heavy denims should not be Sanforized at more than 35 meters/min. Slower
speeds result in better control.
Conclusion
• Denim finishing is the most difficult of all apparel fabrics.
• Control of fabric quality requires a higher level of control which begins at
weaving
• The moisture and temperature must be monitored and controlled at each step.
• Sanforizing is more complicated than it appears and requires the most
attention.
For those who are interested in having deeper knowledge on denim finishing could
perhaps check a new Denim Finishing Manual from Bozetto called “Bozzetto Denim
Finishing Handbook" – which provides indepth information and tips on denim finishing.
Harry Mercer has been an important contributory to this manual . This manual can be
requested from Mr. Giacomo Mussetti at giacomo.mussetti@bozzetto.it