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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

SECTION 10

PART I

RAW MATERIAL AND FINISHED PRODUCT

PERFORMANCE AND TESTING PROCEDURES

STANDARDS & PROCEDURES


ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

TABLE OF CONTENTS
PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT .............................................................................................................................. 3
CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM ............................................................................................................... 3
Spinner’s Certificate .......................................................................................................................................................4
Fur and Faux Fur ...........................................................................................................................................................5
Shearling ........................................................................................................................................................................5
RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES COMPLIANCE ...............................................................................................................6
RETESTING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE.....................................................................................................................6
ANN TAYLOR RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST .......................................................................................................7
DEVELOPMENT TESTING ............................................................................................................................................. 13
Trim Component Testing - Development ......................................................................................................................13
Yarn Testing – Development (Basic Yarn Test Package) ...............................................................................................14
Yarn in Yarn Form .......................................................................................................................................................14
Yarn in Knit Form ........................................................................................................................................................15
Fabric Testing - Development .......................................................................................................................................16
PRODUCTION TESTING ................................................................................................................................................ 17
Trim Component Testing (including test protocols) ......................................................................................................17
Yarn Testing - Production ............................................................................................................................................26
Yarn in Yarn Form .......................................................................................................................................................27
Yarn in Knitted Form ...................................................................................................................................................28
Fabric Production Testing ............................................................................................................................................29
Garment Production Testing .........................................................................................................................................31
TEST REQUEST PROCEDURES..................................................................................................................................... 33
APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES PRODUCTS ................................................................ 36
ANN TAYLOR TEST PACKAGE PRICES – SOFTLINES .................................................................................................. 40
ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES ..................................................................................................................... 42
Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—TRIM................................................................................................................ 44
Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—FABRIC/ YARN ................................................................................................ 45
Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—GARMENT ....................................................................................................... 46
PRODUCT PERFORMANCE .......................................................................................................................................... 47
TESTING PROTOCOLS .................................................................................................................................................. 50
BOTTOMS (#001) ........................................................................................................................................................51
TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002) (CAREER/CASUAL) .............................................................................................54
SUITS/COORDINATES (#003) (CAREER/CASUAL) .....................................................................................................57
OUTERWEAR (#004) ...................................................................................................................................................60
DENIM APPAREL (#005) .............................................................................................................................................63
INTIMATES (#006) .......................................................................................................................................................66
SLEEPWEAR (#007) ....................................................................................................................................................69
TESTING ACTIVE/SWIMWEAR (#008) ........................................................................................................................72
SWEATERS (#009).......................................................................................................................................................76
LEATHER (#010) ..........................................................................................................................................................79
ADDITIONAL TESTING (#011) .....................................................................................................................................81
Basic Care Labels ........................................................................................................................................................... 83
Branded & Co-Branded Product ..................................................................................................................................... 84
BOTTOMS (#001A) ......................................................................................................................................................85
TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002A) ...........................................................................................................................87
SUITS/COORDINATES (#003A) ...................................................................................................................................89
OUTERWEAR (#004A) .................................................................................................................................................91
DENIM APPAREL (#005A) ...........................................................................................................................................93
INTIMATES (#006A).....................................................................................................................................................96
SWEATERS (#009A) ....................................................................................................................................................98

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 2


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT


• Each fabric/yarn that is considered for development is required to be accompanied by a
“Fabric/Yarn Information Sheet (FIS/YIS)”. This form is to be completed by the Mill and a copy
• is to be sent to the appropriate Ann Taylor Product Developer. According to the information that
the Mills supply, New York Sourcing will decide to either pursue or drop/substitute the quality,
depending on the end use.
• If deemed suitable for the product, new fabrics will be evaluated, prior to making bulk commits,
to make sure all standards can be met (See “Development Testing” for details).

CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM


• Ann Taylor has established a basic testing program to monitor and ensure compliance with applicable
legislation and corporate quality standards. Basic test packages have been developed for products
and components, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and garments.

• All products, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and garments must be tested at Production
stage prior to shipment. Each supplier is solely responsible for ensuring that prior to shipment each
product has been tested in accordance with the applicable basic testing package. All finished
products care and content must be appropriately labeled in accordance with United States Federal
Trade Commission Regulations.

• Each supplier is responsible for the submission of the required number of samples, in all styles and
all colors purchased, for evaluation. The supplier is required to submit the required number of
samples to the laboratory accompanied by the completed Ann Taylor Test Request Form (see pages
44-46).

• Ann Taylor will be monitoring to ensure that all products are tested.

• Ann Taylor will pay for all development testing when it is specifically requested by the appropriate
Ann Taylor buying agent, Merchandise Manager, or Product Manager.
Note: If the item developed is purchased for production, the supplier will be required to pay
the development testing charges.

• All suppliers who provide textiles and finished products to Ann Taylor, or to other Ann Taylor suppliers
for confirmed Ann Taylor orders, are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the
cost of merchandise destroyed during the process. This independent testing is required to verify that
all products are in compliance with all applicable legislation and established performance standards.
Suppliers will be invoiced directly for the testing charges by the Ann Taylor approved testing laboratory.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 3


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Spinner’s Certificate

1. Spinner’s certificate is a document used by spinner to confirm a certain type of fiber, including
trademarks, used in spinning.

2. Types of fibers that require spinner’s certificate include the followings:

- Merino wool

- Lambs’ wool

- Shetland wool

- Angora rabbit hair

- Premium cotton fibers such as Pima, Egyptian, Sea Island etc.

- Fiber trademarks such as Lycra®, Elite®, Tencel® etc.

3. Apart from the spinner’s certificate, additional supporting tests will be performed by BV or ITS Shanghai
on claimed fiber type or fiber trademarks (e.g. Antron), where applicable.

4. Information on date of issue, client's address, authorized signature, yarn description, RMID (Raw
Material Identification) number, etc. must be included on the document.

5. Spinner’s certificate is valid ONLY for 12 months from date of issue.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 4


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Fur and Faux Fur

Genuine Fur

Ann Taylor Stores Corporation has a “no-fur” policy for all brands. This excludes shearling.

Garment Containing Faux Fur

In order to ensure compliance with the corporate policy on real fur, items that contain faux fur must be
accompanied by a test report confirming this prior to shipping.

Shearling
Garment Containing Shearling (not fur)

All shearling furs require fiber content test performed on bulk raw material. This test must be performed
by a CCMI approved laboratory and submitted to Ann Taylor prior to shipping.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 5


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES COMPLIANCE

It is critically important for Ann Taylor to know that our products are safe for customer’s end use.
To accomplish this, we have created a restricted substances list with implementation dates. It is
mandatory that all raw materials shipped by September 1, 2008, and finished products by
November 1, 2008 are in full compliance.

RETESTING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE

Any raw material that fails initial testing for restricted substances must indicate on subsequent
test request form what corrective action has been taken to ensure compliance with Ann Taylor’s
standards.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 6


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

ANN TAYLOR RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST


June 2008 Version
Standard Reason for
CAS Number Chemical Name/Color Index Name Ann Taylor Limits Test Method Compliance Date
Origin Restriction

DYES
AZO Dyes which, by reductive cleavage of one or more AZO groups, may release one or more of the following aromatic amines.

60-09-3 4-Amino azobenzene1 Not Detected European Legislated Textiles (EU): Immediate
97-56-3 o-Aminoazotoluene Union & EN 14362-1
(below China
92-67-1 4-Aminodiphenyl detection Polyester(EU):
99-55-8 2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene limits - see test EN 14362-2
90-04-0 o-Anisidine method)
92-87-5 Benzidine Leather(EU):
CEN ISO/TS 17234
106-47-8 p-Chloroaniline
95-69-2 4-Chloro-o-toluidine Textiles(China)
120-71-8 p-Cresidine GB/T 17592-2006
615-05-4 2,4-Diaminoanisole Test
101-77-9 4,4'-Diamino-diphenylmethane Method for 4-
91-94-1 3,3'-Dichlorobenzidine Aminoazobenzene
(pAAB)
119-90-4 3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine
119-93-7 3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine confirmation § 64
838-88-0 3,3'-Dimethyl-4,4'-diamino-diphenylmethane LFGB 8 82.02-9
101-14-4 4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline)
91-59-8 2-Naphthylamine
101-80-4 4,4'-Oxydianiline
139-65-1 4,4'-Thiodianiline
95-80-7 2,4-Toluenediamine
95-53-4 o-Toluidine
137-17-7 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline
95-68-1 2,4-Xylidine2
87-62-7 2,6-Xylidine2
Footnotes:
1. Applicable in the European Union Regulation Only
2. Applicable in the Chinese Regulation only
Disperse Dyes
2475-45-8 Disperse Blue 1 Not Detected Germany Legislated DIN 54231 Immediate
56524-77-7 or Disperse Blue 35 Disperse Dyes
56524-76-6 (below
detection levels -
12223-01-7 Disperse Blue 106
see
61951-51-7 Disperse Blue 124 regulation)
730-40-5 Disperse Orange 3
13301-61-6 Disperse Orange 37/76
2872-52-8 Disperse Red 1
2832-40-8 Disperse Yellow 3
Other Dyes
118685-33-9 Navy Blue 0.1% by mass European Legislated Solvent extraction Immediate
Union and GC-MS or LC
MS

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 7


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

SOLVENTS (Aliphatic Chlorohydrocarbons)


76-01-7 Pentachloroethane 0.1%(mass) - Germany Legislated Headspace All raw materials shipped by
56-23-5 Carbon Tetrachloride total and Japan GC-MS 9/1/08 and finished product by
11/1/08
630-20-6 1,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane
79-34-5 1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane
67-66-3 Chloroform
79-00-5 1,1,2-Trichloroethane
75-35-4 1,1-Dichloroethylene
71-55-6 1,1,1-Trichloroethane
127-18-4 Tetrachloroethylene3
Footnotes:
3. Applicable in the Japan Regulation Only

PESTICIDES
93-72-1 2-(2,4,5-trichlorophenoxy) propionic acid, its Not Switzerland Legislated U.S. EPA Method All raw materials shipped by
salts and compounds Detected & Finland 8081A/8151A 9/1/08 and finished product by
(those 11/1/08
pesticides
without
93-76-5 2,4,5-trichlorophenoxyacetic acid, its salts and indication
compounds are regulated
309-00-2 Aldrin (both Switzerland and Finland) under
57-74-9 Chlordane (both Switzerland and Finland) Switzerland)
72-54-8 Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethane (DDD)
72-55-9 Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethylene (DDE)
50-29-3 Dichloro-diphenyl-tichloro ethane (DDT) (both
Switzerland and Finland)
60-57-1 Dieldrin (5) Also Japan (both Switzerland and
Finland
72-20-8 Endrine (both Switzerland and Finland)
76-44-8 Heptachlorine (both Switzerland and Finland)
1024-57-3 Epoxy-heptachlorine
118-74-1 Hexachlorobenzene (both Switzerland and
Finland)
608-73-1 Hexachlorocyclohexane (HCH, all isomers)
except gamma-hexachlorocyclohexane (except
linande [58-89-9] in medical products)
465-73-6 Isodrin
4234-79-1 Kelevane
143-50-0 Kepone (Chlordecone)
58-89-8 Lindane
72-43-5 Methoxychlor
2385-85-5 Mirex (Finland only)
72-56-0 Perthane
82-68-8 Quintozene
8001-50-1 Strobane
297-78-9 Telodrin
8001-35-2 Toxaphene (both Switzerland and Finland)
1336-36-3 Halogenated biphenyls, including
53469-21-9 Polycholorinated biphenyl (PCB) (both
and various Switzerland and Finland)

Various Halogenated terphenols, including


Polychlorinated terphenyl (PCT)
Various Halogentaed naphthalenes
Various Halogentaed diarylalkanes
Halogenated diphenyl methanes, including
99688-47-8 Monomethyl-dibromo-diphenyl methane
81161-70-8 Monomethyl-dichloro-diphenyl methane
76253-60-6 Monomethyl-tetrachloro-diphenyl methane
87-86-5 Pentachlorophenol (PCP), its salts and
compounds
25167-83-3 Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP), its salts and
compounds

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 8


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

DIOXINS And FURANS


Group 1 Sum of Germany Legislated US EPA 8290 All raw materials shipped by
1746-01-6 2,3,7,8-Tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin Group 1: 9/1/08 and finished product
40321-76-4 1,2,3,7,8-Pentachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1 µg/kg by 11/1/08
51207-31-9 2,3,7,8-Tetrachlorodibenzofuran
57117-31-4 2,3,4,7,8-Pentachlorodibenzofuran

39227-28-6 Group 2 Sum of


19408-74-3 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin Group 1 &
57653-85-7 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 2:
57117-41-6 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 5 µg/kg
70648-26-9 1,2,3,7,8-pentachlorodibenzofuran
72918-21-9 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran
57117-44-9 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexachlorodibenzofuran
60851-34-5 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran
2,3,4,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran

Group 3 Sum of
35822-46-9 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin Group 1, 2
3268-87-9 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin & 3:
67562-39-4 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzofuran 100 µg/kg
55673-89-7 1,2,3,4,7,8,9-Heptachlorodibenzofuran
39001-02-0 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzofuran

Group 4 Sum of
50585-41-6 2,3,7,8-Tetabromodibenzo-p-dioxin Group
109333-34-8 1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzo-p-dlox n 4:
67933-57-7 2,3,7,8-Tetrabromodibenzofuran 1 µg/kg
131166-92-2 2,3,4,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran

Group 5 Sum of
107555-93-1 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin Group
no CAS #'s 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 4 & 5:
available 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin
1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran 5 µg/kg

ASBESTOS
77536-66-4 Actinolite Not European Legislated Microscopic All raw materials shipped by
12172-73-5 Amosite etected Union examination; 9/1/08 and finished product
77536-67-5 Anthrophyllite minimum by 11/1/08
12001-29-5 Chrysotile magnification 1
12001-28-4 Crocidolite 250, polarized
77536-68-6 Tremolite light filter
attached; ratio of
fiber length to
diameter is at
least 3:1

FLUORINATED GREENHOUSE GASES


2551-62-4 Sulphur hexafluoride - S F 6 Not European Legislated Headspace for All raw materials shipped by
detected Union GC/MS 9/1/08 and finished product
Hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs): by 11/1/08
75-46-7 HFC-23 - CHF 3 Thermal
Adsorption GC/MS
75-10-5 HFC-32 - CH2F2

593-53-3 HFC-41 - CH3F

138495-42-8 HFC-43-10mee - C5H2F 1 0

354-33-6 HFC-125 - C2HF5

359-35-3 HFC-134 - C2H2F4

811-97-2 HFC-134a - C H 2F C F 3

75-37-6 HFC-152a - C2H4F2

420-46-2 European
Union
470-46-6 HFC-143a - C2H3F3

431-89-0 HFC-227ea - C3HF7

HFC-236cb - CH2F C F 2CF3

431-63-0 HFC-236ea - CHF 2CHFCF 3

690-39-1 HFC-236fa - C3H2F6

679-86-7 HFC-245ca - C3H3F5

460-73-1 HFC-245fa - CHF 2C H 2CF3

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 9


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

406-58-6 HFC-365mfc - CF3CH2CF2CH3

Per-fluorocarbons (PFCs):
75-73-0 Perfluoromethane - CF4

76-16-4 Pertluoroethane - C2F6

76-19-7 Perfluoropropane - C3F8

355-25-9 Perfluorobutane - C4F10

67-8-26-2 Perfluoropentane - C5F12

355-42-0 Pertluorohaxane - C6F14


115-25-3 Perfluorocyclobutane - c-C4F8

FLAME RETARDANTS
85535-84-8 Chlorinated paraffins (C10-C13) May not be European Legislated Solvent extraction Immediate
used Union and GC-MS or
LC-MS
Methanol
59536-65-1 Polybrominated biphenyls (PBBs) May not be European Legislated extraction:
used Union analysis by GC-
MS or LC-MS
Solvent extraction
and analysis by
GC-MS or LC-MS
32534-81-9 Penta-bromodiphenyl ether (pentaBDE) May not be European Legislated
used Union

32536-52-0 Octa-bromodiphenyl ether (octaBDE)

126-72-7 Tris (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate (TRIS) Not Detected European Legislated


Union

5412-25-9 Bis (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate Not Detected Japan Legislated

545-55-1 Tris (1-aziridinyl)-phosphine oxide (TEPA) Not Detected European Legislated


Union

1163-19-5 Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE) 0.1% by weight Sweden Legislated

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 10


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METALS
Restrictions for Textiles
7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 100 ppm Netherlands Legislated Total Digestion
Immediate

18540-29-9 Chromium (Cr+6) – hexavalent Not detected Germany Legislated DIN 53314; C18
(below filtration and
detection reanalysis of all
limits - see test positive results
method)

7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) PVC 30 ppm United Legislated Total


PU 100 ppm States San Francisco digestion
Superior Court,
317256, CGC-02-
403328, and CGC-05-
440721
Restrictions for Leather
7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 100 ppm Netherlands Legislated Total digestion Immediate
7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 100 ppm Denmark Legislated Total digestion
18540-29-9 Chromium (Cr+6) - hexavalent Not detected Germany Legislated DIN 53314; C18
(below filtration and
detection reanalysis of all
limits - see test positive results.
method)

Restrictions for Metal Parts


7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) 100 ppm Denmark Legislated Total digestion Immediate
7440-02-0 Nickel (Ni) (in metal items) 0.5 European Legislated Nickel release by Immediate
µg/cm2/week Union EN 1811 Abrasion
of coated items by
EN 12472

Restrictions for Heavy Metals


7440-43-9 Antimony 60 ppm European Legislated EN 71, Part III Immediate
Arsenic 25 ppm Union ASTM F963
Barium 1000 ppm
7440-43-9 Cadmium 75 ppm
18540-29-9 Chromium 60 ppm
7439-92-1 Lead 90 ppm
Mercury 60 ppm
Selenium 500 ppm
Restrictions for Plastics, Plastic Film, Surface Coatings and Printing
7440-43-9 Cadmium (Cd) 100 ppm European Legislated EN 1122 Immediate
Union
7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) in Paint/Surface Coating 600 ppm CPSC Legislated 16 CFR 1303; Lead in PU
ASTM E613/1645
(mod.) All raw materials shipped by
9/1/08.,and finished product
7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) in PVC Ca Prop 65 Legislated EPA 3051B/3051 by 11/1/08
San Francisco
Handbag, small leather goods, picture frame, 200 ppm Superior Court,
mirror compact, jewelry, trinket box, season 317256, CGC-02-
ornaments 403328, and CGC-05-
440721
Gloves, scarves, hats, socks, footwear, hair 30 ppm
accessories, belts, sunglasses, reading
glasses

7439-92-1 Lead (Pb) in PU 100 ppm Germany Legislated EPA 3051B/3051

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 11


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Restrictions for Adult Jewelry


7439-92-1 Lead (Pb)

Class 1 No requirement Ca Prop 65 Legislated EPA 3051B/3051 Immediate

Class 2

Other Metal 100,000 ppm


(Electroplated) 60,000 ppm After 12/31//08

Other Metal (Unplated) 15,000 ppm

Plastic/rubber(including PVC) 600 ppm


200 ppm After 12/31//08

Dyes & Surface Coating 600 ppm

Class 3

Not Class 1 or 2 600 ppm

ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS
56573-85-4 Tributyltin (TBT) Not Detected Japan Legislated Performance All raw materials shipped by
(0.5 ppm based method of 9/1/08.,and finished product
each) ethanol extraction by 11/1/08
derivitization and
analysis by GC
668-34-8 Triphenyltin (TPhT) MS or LC-MS
ISO 17353-2004

MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS
50-00-0 Formaldehyde Not detected Japan Legislated ISO 14184-1 or Immediate
0-36 months (below JIS L1041 (Law
detection 112) or
limits - see DIN 53315
test
method)
>36 months (with direct skin contact 75 ppm Japan Legislated ISO 14184-1 or
JIS L1041 (Law
112) or
DIN 53315

Phthalates <1,000 ppm European Legislated Determination of Immediate


84-74-2 Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) (0.1% by Union defined Ortho
85-68-7 Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) Phthalic Esters in
117-81-7 Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP)
weight). Synthetic Fibers
117-84-0 Di-n-ocyl phthalate (DNOP) and
26761-40- Di-iso-decyl-phthalate (DIDP) Thermoplastics by
428553-12-0 Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP) LC-DAD-MS or
GC-MS

Confirmation of
failure by
fragmentation
HPLC-MS

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DEVELOPMENT TESTING
The Development Testing Program has been established to test products and evaluate specific
performance characteristics of “questionable” or “new” trims, components, yarns, or textiles prior to
confirming the bulk production order. Conducting a test during the development stages of production
does not exempt the supplier from testing bulk production in accordance with the full basic testing
packages.

For On-going/carryover qualities


• No testing required.

For New qualities


• At minimum, test those select qualities which are considered most critical
• NY Product Development, in conjunction with the appropriate buying office, will decide which new
qualities are to be tested. Fabric information sheets (FIS), past history, as well as any additional
information from the supplier should be used as resources.
• Product Development always has the option of testing all new qualities.

Trim Component Testing - Development


• Specialized trim and embellishment components, both functional and decorative, may be tested in
the development stage (see above for details) in accordance with the full Basic Trim Component
Testing Package prior to placing the order with the trim supplier. This would assure that the trim
component meets the requirements prior to selection for production.

• Trim Testing Exemptions

Zippers: Ann Taylor does not require testing to be performed on Coats, Ideal Fasteners & YKK
zipper components for audits

Certain trim components: Ann Taylor does not require testing to be performed on Scovill shanks,
rivets, and snaps components for adults.

Remark: Testing is still required on infant and toddler items.

• For suggested testing, please see “Trim Component Testing--Production”.

• Ann Taylor is responsible for charges incurred at development stage.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 13


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Yarn Testing – Development (Basic Yarn Test Package)

(If requested)
st
Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1 color minimum width 36”
1 yard each additional color minimum width 36”
1 cone, 10 yards minimum
Yarn in Yarn Form
To be performed by country sourcing the yarn (i.e. unfinished).
• Development yarn should be submitted as fully processed product.

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
AATCC 20/20A Single fiber: no tolerance Test one solid and all top-
FIBER CONTENT
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3% dyed mélanges.
YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% One color only
Against claimed
TWIST PER INCH ASTM D1423 As specified One color only
by yarn supplier
YARN STRENGTH ASTM D2256 As specified One color only
by yarn supplier

Note 1:
Colorfastness testing is not part of the development protocol. However, Ann Taylor Production/Product
Development, yarn mill, and dyer should identify potential issues with respect to colorfastness at the earliest possible
stage.

Note 2:
Additional testing may be required upon request.

Note 3:
For 100% Cashmere only, add the following tests on the fiber itself:

1. Diameter of Fiber (ASTM D2130)


2. Fiber Length (ASTM D1575)

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Yarn in Knit Form


• To be performed by country manufacturing the garment (If requested)
• Can be garment or knit down – discussed with NY PD.
• Should be performed in every stitch and gauge.

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


PERFORMANCE
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
See “Performance
Specifications -
Flammability” for
details
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum(psi) One color only
Fabric Weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 40
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 55
Lace: 35
Sweaters: 40
PILLING ASTM D3512 All others: 3.5 One color only
Random Tumble Polyester/nylon: 3
(30 minutes)

BS EN ISO Sweaters and Animal Fibers:


12945 Part 1
Specialty animal 3.5
fibers: 2 hours
Other animal 3.5
fibers: 4 hours
STRETCH AND ASTM D2594 In stretch direction only : Stretch only
RECOVERY use “Growth” For samples with elastic content > One color only
for pass/fail 10% (60 sec.)
determination; Recovery: 85%
“Recovery” for Growth: 5%
informational For samples with elastic content <
purposes only 10% (1hr.)
Recovery: 70%; Growth: 7%
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 135, Length x width (max. %) One color only
STABILITY TO 3 cycles Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
WASHING (as per care Rayon/blends -5/+5 Washable fabrics;
instructions) Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x - Dryclean only (hand
7/+3 wash)
For “dryclean Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3
only” fabrics: Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3
Hand wash, line Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 x -8/+3
dry or flat dry Sweaters: -5/+3 x -5/+3
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 158, Length x Width (max.%) One color only
STABILITY TO 1 cycle -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
DRYCLEANING Sweaters: -5/+2 x -5/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, Color change: 4 One color only
WASHING/ as per care Self-staining: 4.5
DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/1cycle) No visual change in appearance
DIMENSIONAL Coteco Length x Width (max.%) One color only
STABILITY AFTER -3/+2 x -3/+2 (not required for
STEAM PRESS sweaters)
Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 15
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Fabric Testing - Development


(If requested)
st
Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1 color, minimum width 36”
1 yard each additional color, minimum width 36”

Any fabric submitted for testing must be representative of all finishing processes it will be subject to
during manufacturing (i.e.: durable water repellents, sanding/brushing, flocking, printing, etc).

For washed programs (such as indigo-dyed denim and heavy garment washed fabrics):
• The fabric supplier/manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric
“before-wash/finish”.
• Ann Taylor is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “after-wash/finish”.
• The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the garments after the
wash/finish.

Basic Development Test Package


• *Dimensional stability and Appearance after 3 launderings or 1 dryclean
• *Dimensional stability after steam press
• Fabric count
• Fabric weight
• Fiber content
• Flammability (see “Performance Specifications—Flammability” for details)
• *pH–denim, leather, washed garments
• Bursting strength (knits)
• Pile retention (corduroy, velvet, velour only)
• Pilling resistance (knits / wovens)
• Abrasion—denims only
• Seam slippage (wovens)
• Spirality (knits) / Torqueing (wovens)
• Stretch and Recovery (fabrics containing stretch fibers, such as Spandex, Lastol, Elasterell-p )
• Tearing strength (wovens / leather)
• Tensile strength (wovens / leather)
• Yarn size (only if requested)
• Spray Test—only if claiming “water repellent”
• Rain Test—only if classifying as “Rainwear”

* For washed programs—these tests are not needed in the “before-wash” state.

See “Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols” for standards and test methods.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 16


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PRODUCTION TESTING
The Production Testing Program has been established to test products and evaluate specific performance
characteristics of trim, yarn, textile, or garment prior to shipment. Note: if the final fabric has mechanical
(wash)/chemical finish, the basic test package must be performed on finished fabric.

Trim Component Testing (including test protocols)


All trim components, both functional and decorative (with the exception of adult Coats, Ideal & YKK zipper
components), are required to be tested in accordance with the following protocols.

Non-metallic Trim (page 1 of 2) Specification #812


Examples: buttons, ball stoppers, etc.
(Excluding: metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather)

Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces)

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


Flammability 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(fabric trims) (see “Performance
Specifications - Flammability
for details)
Appearance After AATCC 150 No breaking, cracking, Test any one color,
Laundering/ 5X Home chipping or dulling of the three representative
Drycleaning Laundering surface sizes/shapes
(machine wash (i.e. large, medium, small,
warm, tumble dry circle, square, heart, etc.)
medium)
If failures, may need to test
AATCC158 additional sizes/shapes.
3X Commercial
Drycleaning Does not have to be
performed if the colorfastness
tests under “dyed to match”
are performed.
Steam press Coteco Staining min. 4.5 Test any one color, at least
No visual change in three representative
appearance sizes/shapes
(i.e. large, medium, small)

If dyed to match (instead of internal dyed)


add the following tests (test all colors):
Color fastness to AATCC 61 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors, at least three
washing IIA Staining: min. 4 representative sizes/shapes
(i.e. large, medium, small)
Color fastness to AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors, at least three
drycleaning Staining: min. 4 representative sizes
(i.e. large, medium, small)
Colorfastness to AATCC 116 Dry: min. 4.5 Test all colors,
crocking Wet: min. 4 any one size

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 17


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Non-metallic Trim (page 2 of 2) Specification #812


Excluding metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather
If coated or painted
add the following tests
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes

Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM ppm) lead content based on
E1613/E1645 the weight of the dried
(Mod.) paint or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these limits
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 (ppm) for soluble migrated
Barium: 1000 element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than Only if supplier indicated that the
EN12472 0.5. micrograms per square item is “nickel-free”.
(report results centimeter per week
with and without (Nickel is possible in coatings or
coating) special colors)

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)

Required Test Test Method Required Standard Notes

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, PU 100 ppm
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

If Button
add the following tests

Center Strength
a. Shank/2 & 4 holes BS 4162 Section Up to 16 ligne: 16 lbf Test all shapes/sizes.
plastic & wooden 4.0 (modified) Up to 25 ligne: 20 lbf One color only.
buttons Larger than 25 ligne: 30 lbf

b. Shell buttons 15 lbf

c. Horn button 18 lbf

If Snap
add the following test

Snap Action ASTM D4846 Min: 2 lbs Test all sizes/shapes. One
BV-S 1045 Max: 5 lbs color only.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 18


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Trim made of metal Specification #813


Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces)

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes

Corrosion ASTM B117 G85 (Mod) No visual change in appearance Test any one size
Resistance 24 hours in 1% Salt Spray No signs of staining, corrosion, All colors and finishes
(Fog) oxidation or discoloration.
Nickel test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5 Only if supplier
EN 12472 micrograms per square centimeter per indicated that the item
Report results with and week is “nickel-free”.
without coating

Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed


ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 these limits (ppm) for
Barium: 1000 soluble migrated
Cadmium: 75 element
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500

If coated or painted
add the following tests

Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% All colors


ASTM E1613/E1645 (600 ppm) lead content based
(Mod.) on the weight of the dried
paint or coating film
Appearance After AATCC 150 No cracking, chipping or dulling Test any one color,
Laundering/ 5X Home Laundering of the surface three representative sizes
Drycleaning (machine wash warm, (i.e. large, medium, small)
tumble dry medium)
Note: Trim to be applied on
AATCC158 fabric or mock-up garment after
3X Commercial testing.
Drycleaning

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)

Required Test Test Method Required Standard Notes

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, PU 100 ppm
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

If Snap
Add the following test
Snap Action BV S1045 Min: 2 lbs Test all sizes. One color only.
Max: 5 lbs

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 19


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Zippers (page 1 of 2) Specification #814


Use: A = jeans, B= bottoms, C= dresses/tops, D= outerwear (for pockets “C” can be used)

Minimum sample requirement: 120 (at least 6” in length)

Required Standard (lbf)


Required test Test Method Use Use Use Use Notes
A B C D

Crosswise chain ASTM 2061 80 60 50 75


strength (14.1)
Top stop holding ASTM 2061 20 16 16 20
(22.2)
Bottom stop holding ASTM 2061 16 12 12 20 Non separating zipper only.
(stringer separation) (22.5) Lower standards are acceptable
if zipper bottom is secured by
appropriate sewing in garment.

Fixed retainer ASTM 2061 NA NA 16 20 Separating zippers only.


pull off (30.2)
Separable pin ASTM 2061 NA NA 16 20 Separating zippers only.
pull off (30.1)
Holding strength of ASTM 2061 12 6 4 7 Only if locking slider.
slider lock (82-91) Report any failure
Examine all components after
testing and report any damage
(i.e. elements, etc.).

Color fastness to AATCC 61 Color change: min. 4 Slider and stringer


washing IIA Staining: min. 4 Test each color
Color fastness to AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Slider and stringer
drycleaning Staining: min. 4 Test each color.

Colorfastness to ASTM 2054 Dry: min. 4.5 Test each color.


Crocking AATCC 116 Wet: min. 4 Tape only.
Colorfastness to Coteco Staining min. 4.5 Complete zipper
Steam Press Color change: 4 and Test each color
no visual change in
appearance.
Operability ASTM D2062 No sticking Test 3 different zippers

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 20


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
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Zippers (page 2 of 2) Specification #814

Required test Test Method Required Standard (lbf) Notes


Nickel test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than Nickel is possible in coatings or
EN 12472 0.5. micrograms per special colors
Report results square centimeter per
with and week
without
coating

If used for swimwear

Colorfastness and AATCC 106 Color change: min. 4 Stringer and slider
appearance after (modify if Staining: min. 4 Test each color.
exposure to necessary) Appearance: No visual
sea water change.
Colorfastness and AATCC 162 Color change: min. 4 Stringer and slider
appearance after Appearance: No visual Test each color.
exposure to change
chlorinated pool
water

If painted or coated
Add the following tests

Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% All colors


ASTM (600 ppm) lead content
E1613/E1645 based on the weight of
(mod.) the dried paint or coating
film
Heavy Metals ASTM F963 Maximums If metal--all with or without
EN 71, Part III See “Accessories made surface coating. If coated, test
of metal” coating in each color.

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)

Required Test Test Method Required Standard Notes

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, PU 100 ppm
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

If made of metal

Heavy Metals ASTM F963 See above See above


EN 71 Part III
Corrosion Resistance ASTM B117 No visual change in Test any one size
G85 (mod) appearance All colors and finishes
24 hrs in 1% No signs of staining,
salt spray corrosion, oxidation or
(fog) discoloration.

Note: Exempt from the above tests are Coats, Ideal Fasteners & YKK zipper components for adults.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 21


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Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (Page 1 of 2) Specification #815


Made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, leather patches, etc.

Minimum sample requirement: 1 yard (if in fabric form of at least 40” in width) OR 4 yards (taping)

Required test Test method Required Standard Notes

Colorfastness and AATCC 61, IIA Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after Staining: min. 4
washing Self staining: min. 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
Colorfastness and AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after Staining: min. 4
drycleaning Self staining: min. 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
Colorfastness to AATCC 8 Dry: min. 4 Test all colors
crocking or Wet: min. 3 Report which test procedure
AATCC 116 was used
If item is too
small

If item is a tape, ribbon, elastic, etc. add the following tests:

Dimensional stability AATCC 135 Report actual shrinkage. Test one color only
to laundering Acceptance depends on Three launderings
compatibility with fabric in
specific garment
Dimensional stability AATCC 158 Report actual shrinkage. Test one color only
to drycleaning Acceptance depends on One drycleaning only
compatibility with fabric in
specific garment

If used on inside of garment add the following test:

Color fastness to AATCC 15 Color change: min. 3.5 Example: neck tape, etc.
perspiration Staining: min. 4 Test all colors.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 22


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Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (page 2 of 2) Specification #815


Made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, etc.

If used in swimwear add the following tests:

Required test Test method Required Std. Notes

Colorfastness and AATCC 106 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after Staining: min. 4
exposure to sea water Self staining: min. 4.5
No visible change in appearance
Colorfastness and AATCC 162 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after No visible change in appearance
exposure to
chlorinated pool water

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)

Required Test Test Method Required Notes


Standard

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC- PU 100 ppm
02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

Down and Feather Testing Specification #816


Minimum sample requirement: 300 grams of down and one garment or mock-up.

Required Test Test Method Required standard Notes

PENETRATION IDFB, Method 5530 Minimum 4 Fabric against actual filling


RESISTANCE FTM 191, Method One color only
5530 (mod.)
FEATHER/DOWN IDFB Method 3 No more than: For labeling, “USA Standards -
COMPOSITION Fed Standard 148a 10% down fiber Down and Feather Products
10% feather fibers Labeling Guidelines”
2% landfowl feathers
2% damaged feathers
2% residue
FILL POWER IDFB 10, IDFB 32 Minimum
(tumble dry method) 550 cubic inches/oz
OXYGEN IDFB 21 Less than 10
NUMBER
TURBIDITY IDFB 22 Minimum
550 mm

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 23


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
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Rubber and soft plastic patches Specification #817


Minimum sample requirement: 40 pieces

Required test Test number Required Standard Notes

Colorfastness and AATCC 61 IIA Color change: min. 4 All colors


appearance after Staining: min. 4 Add appearance to evaluation
washing No brittleness, cracking or
chipping
Colorfastness and AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Not for rubber (known to fail,
appearance after Staining: min. 4 use “do not dryclean” label)
drycleaning No brittleness, cracking or All colors
chipping Add appearance to evaluation
Ageing under 48 hrs under No discoloration, staining, Any one color
hot/humid conditions 50C (120F) and brittleness, cracking or
95% rh chipping
Ageing under cold 48 hrs under 0 No brittleness, cracking or Any one color
conditions C (32 F) chipping Note: test sample must be
evaluated immediately, while
still cold.
Phthalates (in PVC) Solvent <1000 ppm of listed PVC
extraction with substances - see Test all colors
LC-MS or GC- “Standards”
MS Analysis
Cadmium Content EN 1122 <0.01% by weight PVC, Pigment Coated/Painted
plastic
BHT content ASTM 4275 Less than 25 ppm Phenol compounds (foam,
plastic, etc.)

If used for swimwear add the following tests:

Colorfastness and AATCC 106 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after Staining: min. 4
exposure to sea water No visible change in
appearance
Colorfastness and AATCC 162 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
appearance after No visible change in
exposure to chlorinated appearance.
pool water

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)

Required Test Test Method Required Standard Notes

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, PU 100 ppm
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 24


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
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LABELS

Number of labels required for testing: 25 labels minimum SPECIFICATION #560

# OF
TEST DESCRIPTION REQUIREMENTS TEST METHOD SAMPLINGS/
READINGS
1. Durability to 50 launderings and No adverse effects AATCC 135/158 3
5 drycleaning (washing conditions as
per care instructions)
2. Colorfastness to Laundering AATCC 61
- color change 4.0 minimum 1
- staining 3.5 minimum
3. Colorfastness to Drycleaning AATCC 132
- color change 4.0 minimum 1
- staining 3.5 minimum
4. Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach 4.0 minimum AATCC TS001 1
5. Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach 4.0 minimum AATCC TS001 2
6. Colorfastness to Crocking (dry/wet) 4.0 minimum/3.0 minimum AATCC 116 1
7. Colorfastness to Perspiration 4.0 minimum AATCC 15 1
- color change 3.0 minimum
- staining
8. Colorfastness to Water: Sea (swimwear) AATCC 106 1
- color change 4.0 minimum
- staining 3.0 minimum
9. Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool AATCC 162 1
(swimwear)
- color change 4.0 minimum

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)

Required Test Test Method Required Standard Notes

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, PU 100 ppm
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

Size Stickers SPECIFICATION #561

Sample Required: 20 sticker labels and one (1) yard fabric of each color in garment order. Lab. may request
additional labels if necessary.
Note: Sticker label MUST NOT be pre-applied on fabric.

Required Test Test Method Required Standard Notes

Ageing Test (under BV S1052 No noticeable change on sticker All color fabrics in garment
hot/humid conditions) and residual adhesive left on order
test fabric.

BHT Content ASTM D4275 Less than 25 ppm Each sticker type

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Yarn Testing - Production


st
Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1 color minimum width 36”
1 yard each additional color minimum width 36”
1 cone, 10 yards minimum
Yarn in Yarn Form
Production Stage (including yarn testing protocol)

• All yarns purchased by Ann Taylor must be tested in accordance with the full Basic Yarn Testing
Package and include the (Basic Yarn Test Package) prior to shipment from the suppliers.

• Samples in all colors from the first bulk production must be submitted to an Ann Taylor approved
testing laboratory for evaluation.

• “Unfinished” yarn
o To be performed by country sourcing the yarn and only required if sourcing country is different
than country manufacturing the garment

o Physical testing—cone of yarn should be submitted to the laboratory.

o Colorfastness testing--basic jersey knitdown should be submitted to the laboratory

• “Finished” Yarn:

o To be performed by country manufacturing the garment.

o Production yarn must be submitted as a knitdown in the correct color, stitch/gauge and finish
{washing, brushing, printing, etc} to the laboratory for evaluation.

• For 100% Cashmere only, add the following tests on the fiber itself:
Diameter of Fiber (ASTM D2130)
Fiber Length (ASTM D1575)

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Yarn in Yarn Form - Production Specification #719

Required test Test Method Required Notes


Standard
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single fiber: No Test one solid and all top-dyed
ASTMD276/629 tolerance mélanges.
Blends: +/- 3%

YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% One color only


against claimed
TWIST PER INCH ASTM D1423 As specified One color only
by yarn supplier
YARN STRENGTH ASTM D2256 As specified One color only
by yarn supplier
COLORFASTNESS/
PERFORMANCE
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), All colors
Wool/wool blends:
4.5-7
Others: 6-8
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm

AATCC 132
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 Washable fabrics
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 Washable fabrics
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except white)
CROCKING Light: 3/4 Lab discretion on light colors and
Medium/dark: certain neutrals
2.5/3.5
Pigment/ sulfur 2/3
sueded (brushed,
peached, sanded)
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All colors
Option 3 Light/neutral colors: (except lining/pocketing fabrics)
20 hours 3.5
All others: 4

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Yarn in Knitted Form
Testing at Production Stage. Full Garment to be performed by country manufacturing the garment.

- Must be performed on a finished garment at manufacturing stage.


- One color per style
- Every stitch and gauge Specification #720

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


PHYSICAL
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTM D276/629 Blends: +/- 3% When applicable, due to
construction, embellishments,
trims, etc,
PERFORMANCE
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(See“Performance Specifications-
Flammability for details)
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) One color only
Fabric Weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 40
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 55
Lace: 35
Sweaters: 50
PILLING ASTM D3512 All others: 3.5 Woven/knit: One color only
Random Tumble Polyester/nylon: 3 Knit/sweater only: If failure, test 2
(30 minutes) additional colors
Sweaters and
Animal Fibers:
BS EN ISO 12945
Part 1 (4 hours) Class 3.5
Specialty animal
fibers: 2 hours Class 3.5
STRETCH AND ASTM D2594 In stretch direction only : Stretch only
RECOVERY use “Growth” for For samples with elastic content One color only
pass/fail > 10% (60 sec.)
determination; Recovery: 85%
“Recovery” for Growth: 5%
informational For samples with elastic content
purposes only < 10% (1hr.)
Recovery: 70%
Growth: 7%
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 135, 3 Length x Width (max. %) One color only
TO WASHING cycles Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
(as per care Rayon -5/+5 Washable fabrics;
instructions) Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 Dryclean only (hand wash)
x -7/+3
For “dryclean only” Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3
fabrics: Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3
Hand wash, line dry Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
or flat dry Sweaters: -5/+3 x -5/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 158, Length x Width (max. %) One color only
TO DRYCLEANING 1 cycle -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
Sweaters: -5/+2 x -5/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as Color change: 4 One color only
WASHING/ per care Self-staining: 4.5
DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in appearance
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in appearance Dryclean/dryclean only garments
/APPEARANCE AFTER Length x Width (max %) One color only
STEAM PRESS -3/+2 x -3/+2 Not required for sweaters

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Fabric Production Testing


Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1st color, minimum width 36”.1 yard each additional
color, Minimum width 36”

Responsibility of Fabric Suppliers


• The fabric supplier is responsible for testing all fabrics according to the Ann Taylor requirements prior
to shipment from the mill and for the costs of such tests.

• The full basic textile package must be done on the first production dye lot of each fabric. Test report
will be valid for two seasons. (Ann Taylor will specify if any additional tests must be done depending
on the fabric).
For each quality textile, only one color is required to be fully tested in accordance with the full basic
textile testing package. Each additional color of the same quality is only required to be tested for all
applicable colorfastness tests (see “Performance Specification Sheets/Testing Protocols” for details).

• The tests must be done by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. All required fabric
information must be given to the laboratory (see “Ann Taylor Test Request Form—Fabric”).

• In addition, the fabric supplier must test each dye lot internally to assure that all fabrics meet the
requirements. These test reports do not have to be submitted to Ann Taylor, but the supplier must
keep them for review by Ann Taylor personnel if problems arise.

• For garments produced at vertically integrated manufacturing plants, the factory is required to submit
both the textiles and garments independently for evaluation in accordance with both the full basic
textile and garment testing packages.

Note: All colors must be tested prior to ordering care labels. Labels may vary per color and must
be ordered per lab test report recommendations. Final care label depends on how the garment as
whole performs (and confirmed by the garment test).

General Fabric Testing Requirements


• All fabric testing must be done according to the Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols
(including “Additional Testing”, when applicable).

• The fabric supplier must submit all fabrics from the first production dye lot each season.

• Any care label referenced must be selected from the list of Ann Taylor standard care labels. Any
deviation must be approved by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing.

• Fabric used for trim, lining, etc. must undergo the same testing procedures as regular fabrics.

• All tests must be performed according to the test procedures listed (i.e. AATCC, ASTM, etc.).

• All fabrics submitted must be representative of all finishing processes it will be subject to during
manufacturing (i.e., stone/antique washing, garment washing, flocking, printing, etc).

• For washed programs (such as indigo-dyed denim and heavy garment washed fabrics), before- and
after- wash testing are required (see below for details).

Before-Wash Testing
• Bursting strength (knits)
• Fabric weight
• Fabric count
• Fiber content

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• Flammability (see “Performance Specifications—Flammability” for details)


• Pile retention (corduroy, velvet, velour only)
• Pilling resistance (knits / wovens)
• Abrasion—denim only
• Seam slippage (wovens)
• Stretch and Recovery (fabrics containing stretch fibers, such as Spandex,
Lastol, Elasterell-p)
• Tearing strength (wovens)
• Tensile strength (wovens)
• Yarn size (only if requested)
• Spray Test—only
if claiming “water
repellent”
• Rain Test—only if classified rainwear”

SEE “PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATION SHEETS/TEST PROTOCOLS” FOR STANDARDS AND TEST METHODS.

After-Wash/Finish Testing
See “Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols” for full testing, standards, and test
methods.

Note 1: The fabric supplier/manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the
fabric “before-wash/finish” (see below).
Note 2: The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric
“after-wash/finish” (see Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols).
Note 3: The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the
garments after the wash/finish.

• All colorfastness tests are done against AATCC multifiber #10 (except crocking) unless otherwise
stated in the testing protocols. Multifiber #1 should be used if rayon or silk is present in the fabric.
Multifiber # 10 & #1 will be used if acrylic and silk and/or rayon are present in the fabric.
(Note: If the results are marginal and the fabric is used in a critical combination, then the tests should
be repeated against the actual component fabrics used in a garment).

• For color-blocked items, it is recommended that mock-ups be made in all colorways and submitted for
colorfastness testing before fabric shipment.

• Fabrics must be washed/dried three times, or drycleaned one time for all shrinkage and appearance
tests.
• Please review carefully the requirements for flammability testing in this section.

• Colorfastness to laundering:
Hand washables: AATCC 61-1A
Hand wash cold: test performed at 40 C
Hand wash warm: test performed at 49 C
Machine washables: AATCC 61-2A
Machine wash cold: test performed at 40 C
Machine wash warm: test performed at 49 C

• All Fabrics containing metal/metallic, in addition to all applicable basic tests must also be subject to
further construction analysis: 1) number of yarns used to weave/knit fabric & number of plies/yarn and
2) fiber content by weight of each yarn.

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Garment Production Testing

Number of Samples Required for Testing: 3 Garments

Responsibility of Garment Suppliers


The garment supplier is responsible for all garments to be tested according to the Ann Taylor
requirements (full Basic Garment Testing Package) and for the costs of such tests.

The factory must send a representative garment from the beginning of their bulk production to an
Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory.
• All the required garment information must be given to the laboratory (see “Ann Taylor
Test Request Form—Garment”)
• Additional garments must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab).

*NOTE: Production garments must have all production trim/embellishments attached. If a total
of 3 garments are not sent, the testing lab will contact the requestor for the additional garment.
The testing lab will not proceed with the garment test until both garments have been received.

Garment Test
The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a garment together
while being cleaned three times (one time for drycleaning) according to the care label. We are
looking for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage, or anything that would make the garment
look or feel undesirable. Special attention should be paid to trims, accessories, and garment
prints.

Care labels submitted must be taken from the Ann Taylor standard care labels. Any deviation
must be approved by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing.

The garment test will also evaluate the strength of all seams, stress points, and trim
attachments, as well as verify the care instructions and fiber content labeling. For fiber content
label, fiber content must be tested in fabric stage and verified at garment stage on all styles prior
to order labels.

For zipper(s) that is/are attached to the garment, the operability, chain crosswise, top stop
holding, bottom stop holding and holding strength of slider lock tests are required.

The garment test must be performed by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. See
“Approved Laboratories for AT Softline Product”.

Production textiles in all colors must be tested prior to submitting samples for garment testing.
The garment testing does not replace the required fabric tests but is in addition to these. The
fabric tests are important because problems with such items as tensile strength, light fastness,
colorfastness to perspiration, chlorine, seawater, etc. are not revealed by our garment test.

Garments must be tested in the production stage and test report will be valid for two seasons.
The testing must be done after the garment is completely finished, including “garment wash”,
“enzyme wash”, “stone wash”, etc, if applicable.

See “Performance Specification Sheets/Testing Protocols” for a list of the required tests.
If garment dye/garment finished – need to add colorfastness tests.

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Colorfastness to crocking test is required to be performed on all denim production garments. If


dry crocking does not meet dry crocking Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash garment 1X
according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. If the crocking improves to a
satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted provided that the care instruction is modified to
include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions).

The cost of the testing is the responsibility of the garment supplier.

This procedure does not relieve the garment supplier of his responsibility to assure the
performance of the garments by total internal quality control throughout the production cycle.

Each type/style of garment must be tested (in the correct textile quality), especially if different
kinds of trim and different fabrics are used together in the same garment.
• It is not necessary to test every color combination, but all critical color combinations
must be tested
o Combinations of bright/deep colors with white/cream.
o Pay special attention to contrasting trim
o All combinations of “red” with other light colors must always be tested because
this is the color most like to bleed.
o All color contrast combinations with fabrics that are known to be marginal in
colorfastness (from fabric tests) must be tested.

• For color-blocked items, it is recommended that mock-ups be made in all colorways


and submitted for colorfastness testing before fabric shipment.

If the same garment style is made by more than one supplier, it must be tested individually from
each supplier.

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TEST REQUEST PROCEDURES


PROCEDURE FOR REQUESTING TESTING SERVICES
The following is the standard operating procedure for processing test requests.

Ann Taylor Request Form


In order to process your requests as quickly as possible, it is imperative that all testing be
submitted on an Ann Taylor Test Request Form (see page 35-37) to an approved testing
laboratory (see “Approved Laboratories for Ann Taylor Softlines Product”). Request forms
must be filled out completely and accurately at the time of submission, including:
• Fiber Content – Do not abbreviate. Must use proper FTC generic names for fiber(s).
If the product contains a trade name fiber, it must be listed in conjunction with the
appropriate FTC generic name.
• Quality/Style Number – For trim, yarn, and textiles, use the raw material supplier’s
quality identification number. For garments/finished products, use the assigned Ann
Taylor style number.
• Color – Identify using Ann Taylor approved name(s) and number(s).
• AT Division – Must indicate as appropriate--either Stores, Loft, or Factory Stores.
• AT Department number - Must indicate appropriate 2 digit AT department number.
• All trim, fabric, and garment details as listed on the test request forms.
• Requestor name/telephone/fax/e-mail – Must indicate the full name of person
requesting testing including telephone number, fax number, and e-mail address.
• Proposed Care Instructions – Must be included, and should reference AT standard
care instructions. If proposed care instructions indicate laundering, must include wash
temperature and cycle, bleaching instructions, dry temperature and cycle, and ironing
instructions. If care instructions are unknown, please indicate “lab to provide”. .
• Service requested –Check appropriate box.
• Requested testing
1) Must advise if sample is Development or Production.
2) Must select type of testing.
a) Basic Test Package - no additional information is required.
b) Additional Color Test Only – must also advise previous full basic test report
number.
c) Retest - must also advise previous report number and the failed property
(properties) that are to be re-tested.
d) Other - must specify requested test(s).
e) Garment Test -must also advise corresponding fabric and trim test report
numbers.
• Product Category - Check all appropriate boxes.
• Billing Information - Must be fully completed including: company name, address,
contact name, telephone number and fax number.
• AT Contact Name - Must be included

Note: Request forms must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process
your request. It is important to note that the information provided on the request form is
required by Ann Taylor for product tracking purposes and will determine which performance
standard to apply to your product.

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Requests received without all the required information cannot be processed and will be
handled as follows:
• Testing Services Coordinator will contact the supplier via telephone, fax and/or e-mail and
request the required information.
• The requestor will be notified and a “Hold” status will be placed on the request.
• The sample and all paperwork will be held for two working days.
• Should the supplier fail to reply within the two-day time period, the request will be
“Canceled” and the requestor will be notified for disposition of samples.
• Upon receipt of required information/samples, the request will be reprocessed and
the “revised date” will appear on the Request form as well as on the Test report.

Processing Routine Requests for Testing:


The following summarizes the standard procedure for processing routine test requests. The
Testing Service will test only what is requested in accordance with Ann Taylor standards and
policy. When a submission is received that does not fall within the guidelines below, the
requestor will be notified prior to the start of testing.

I. Initial Submissions:

Testing service will test only what is requested by the supplier, as stated in the request
form!
• Requests for all “Basic Package” testing will override all other requests for testing.
• In cases where fabric and/or garment package testing does not include all special testing
requested, the additional tests will be included along with the standard test package.
• In cases where fabric and/or garment package testing has not been requested, only the
tests specified will be performed.
• Please state weight in fabric oz/sq. yd, g/m2 or sweater garment lbs/dz. Do not
abbreviate care instructions or fiber content.
• Garment testing and additional colorway testing must have the original report numbers
referenced, otherwise the requests will be placed on “Hold”.

II. Retest Submissions:

For retest submissions include previous report number and specify which test needs to be
performed. Retest submissions received without a previous report number listed and without
specific instructions included, will be handled using the “Hold” criteria listed above.

Note: Any variations to standard BV testing procedures will be outlined in the “executive
summary” section of the corresponding test report.

III. Ann Taylor Testing Service Options:

The network of testing laboratories makes every effort to evaluate products in the shortest
possible time.
• Regular Service: 3 working days, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the
samples. (Normal fee applied)
• Priority Service: 2 working days, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the
samples. (Normal fee + 40% surcharge applied)
• Express Service: 1 working day, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the
samples. This only applies to tests that can be processed and submitted within 1 working
day (normal fee + 50% surcharge applied).

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Testing for “Priority” and “Express” services are limited only to those tests that can be
completed within the specified service time. Requests received, with either of these services
selected, requiring a test(s) that falls outside of the service parameters, will follow on a separate
report and the vendor and appropriate requestor personnel will be notified. Use the express
service option only when necessary to minimize reporting delays created by a significant increase
in "special" service requests. Full package testing cannot be completed with Express Service.

*Notes:
• If due to tests required, more than the requested service is needed to complete
testing, the lab must communicate to the requestor within 24 hours of receipt of the
sample what the expected completion date will be.

• All package program testing will be completed within the regular service except:
1) Swimwear: colorfastness to light (40 hours) – require 5 days
2) Products containing feather/down – require 7 days
3) Leather Products – require 7 days
4) Products made of fiber or fiber blends requiring microscopic analysis – require 5
days.
5) Trim testing that involves nickel release test---require 10 days
6) Labels: durability to 50 launderings and 5 drycleanings – require 5 days.
7) Washable Merino Wool – 10 Washes requires 4 days
8) Easy Care in 5x, 10x, 25x washes requires 8 days minimum

Ann Taylor Test Result Ratings

Each test property as well as the overall rating of the final report will be based on the following
Ann Taylor established rating system:

APPROVED
APPROVED WITH TOLERANCE - may proceed.
REJECTED - should not proceed.

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APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES


PRODUCTS
APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES PRODUCTS

Ann Taylor has selected Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Services, Inc. (BVCPS) as the primary service
provider. Ann Taylor also recognizes test reports from Intertek Labtest Testing Services (ITS) when pre-
approved by Director of Fabric and Testing, New York. Except in the above situation, all product testing
should be directed to Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Testing Services Group.
In certain countries where Bureau Veritas Product Services does not have an approved testing laboratory,
testing should be directed to the nearest approved Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services laboratory.
The following laboratories have been approved by Ann Taylor to conduct laboratory consumer testing in
accordance to Ann Taylor performance standards. The approved laboratory and contact information is listed
below. Please note that not all laboratories are approved to conduct all tests, see (*).

CHINA
Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Services (Shanghai)
Softline Divisions
Address: No.168, Guanghua Road, Zhuanqiao Town, Minhang,
Shanghai, China. Post Code: 201108
Tel: 86-21-2408188
Fax: 86-21-64890042
E-mail: bvcps_sh_info@cn.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Alvin Fung

Intertek Testing Services Shanghai Ltd.


(Exclusively on specialty & luxury animal fiber products such as alpaca, cashmere, camel hair, mohair,
Angora rabbit, mink etc.)
Address: 2nd Floor, Nr. 2 Building, Shanghai Comalong Industrial Park
Nr. 9 Yishan Road,
Shanghai, China 200233
Tel: 86-21-6120-6060
Fax: 86-21-6485-0592
Contact: Ms. Linda Shi, General Manager
Email: linda.shi@intertek.com
HONG KONG
Bureau Veritas Hong Kong Ltd.
Consumer Product Services (Kwai Chung Office)
Address: Unit 1314, Vantas Industrial Centre,
21-33 Tai Lin Pai Road, Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong
Tel: 852-2418-1222
Fax: 852-2485-1125
E-mail: bvcps_softline@hk.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Bonnie Chung
INDIA - NOIDA
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (India) Pvt. Ltd.
Address: F-5, Sector VIII, Noida 201 301, Gautam Buddnagar
Uttar Pradesh, India
Tel: 91-120-2424878
Fax: 91-120-2424880
E-mail: paromita.roy@in.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Paromita Roy

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INDIA - BANGALORE
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (India) Pvt. Ltd.
Add: 1-2-3, Mereside Heights (1st floor), Pai Layout, Old Madras Road
Benniganahalli, Bangalore—16, Karnataka—India
Tel: 0091-80-28531432
Fax: 0091-80-28531397
Email: niraj.singh@in.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Niraj Singh

INDONESIA
PT. Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services Indonesia
Mailing Address
Add: Jl. Cideng Timur No.38
Gedung KKM, 2nd Floor, Jakarta Pusat 10130, Indonesia
Tel: 62-21-634-8877
Fax: 62-21-634-8838
E-mail: bvcps_jkt_general_inquires@id.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Darwi Tandiono

ITALY
ICQ Global SRL
Add: Via Europa N. 28, 22060, Cabiate (CO) Italy
Tel: 39-031-768-403
Fax: 39-031-756-106
E-mail: Pamelavilla@icqglobal.com
Contact: Pamela Villa

Bureau Veritas/Brachi Lab.


Laboratio di Analisi Prove e Ricereche Tessil
Add : Via Fonda di Mezzana
61/L 59100 Prato
Tel : +0574591343
Fax : +0574593975
Main Contact in Brachi: Giancarlo DI BLASI (0574 – 591343)
malto:bv.giancarlo@brachi.it

Main Contact in BV (Milano): Stefano Vaccari (02 – 27091 214)


mailto:stefano.vaccari@it.bureauveritas.com

BUZZI - Textile Laboratory


(Exclusively on specialty & luxury animal fiber products such as alpaca, cashmere, camel hair, mohair,
Angora rabbit, mink etc.)
Add: Viale della Repubblica, 9-59100 Prato - Italy
Tel: 39-0574-589-887
Fax: 39-0574-589-890
E-mail: g.bartolini@buzzilab.it

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JAPAN-TOKYO
c/o Japan Synthetic Textile Inspection Institute Foundation
Add: 4-4-20, Hongokucho, Nihonbashi, Chuo-Ku,
Tokyo 103-0021, Japan
Tel: 81-3-3241-7319
Fax: 81-3-3245-0773
E-mail: kikaku-info@kaken.or.jp
Contact: Mr. Takuo Ishizuka

JAPAN-OSAKA
c/o Japan Synthetic Textile Inspection Institute Foundation
Add: 2-5-19, Edobori, Nishi-Ku, Osaka 550-0002, Japan
Tel: 81-6-6441-0310
Fax: 81-6-6441-0323
E-mail: t-okubo@kaken.or.jp
Contact: Norihiko Nakayama

KOREA
KOTITI (Softlines Only)
Add: 819-5, Yoksam-1Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Korea
Tel: 822-3451-7000
Fax: 822-3451-7172
E-mail: kyu_huh@kotiti.re.kr, young_kim@kotiti.re.kr
Contact: Mr. Kyu Huh, Dr. Young Kim

KEMTI (Hardlines Only)


Add: 459-28, Gasan-Dong, Geumcheon-Gu, Seoul, Korea
Tel: 82-2-2102-2553, 2554
Fax: 82-2-856-6181
E-mail: komtri@chol.net
Contact Person: Hoyoung Kim, Dongjoon Kim

PHILIPPINES
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services Philippines Inc.
Add: 8439 S. Super Highway, West Service Road
Paranaque City, Philippines
Tel: 632-824-2825
Fax: 632-824-1430
E-mail: criselda.de-jesus@ph.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Ms. Carmela Babor

SINGAPORE
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Pte) Ltd.
Add: 11 UBI Road 1, Meiban Industrial Building,
#07-01 Singapore 408723
Tel: 65-6283-8366
Fax: 65-6283-8966
E-mail: joeie.tsang@sg.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Ms. Joeie Tsang

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SRI LANKA
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Lanka) Private Ltd.
Add: 270 Dehiwela Road, Bellanwila, Sri Lanka
Tel: 94-11-2739546
Fax: 94-11-2739548
E-mail: chanaki.de-costa@lk.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Ms. Chanaki De Costa

TAIWAN
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Hong Kong) Ltd.
– Taiwan Branch
Add: The AETNA Tower, 2F(2A1), No. 37, Zhongyang S. Road, Sec. 2,
Beitou, Taipei, 112, Taiwan R.O.C.
Tel: 886-2-2895-3666
Fax: 886-2-2895-6999
E-mail: General.twcps@tw.bureauveritas.com
Contact: Jane Lo

THAILAND
Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Thailand) Ltd.
Add: 2410 Sukhumvit Road
Phrahanong, Bangkok 10206, Thailand
Tel: 662-7447200
Fax: 662-7447202
E-mail: poomthavatch.sukanhaketu@th.bureaveritas.com
Contact: Mr. Poomthavatch Sukanhaketu (Poom)

TURKEY
BVCPS Test Laboratuvarlari Ltd. Sti.
Add: Mehmet Akif Mah., Express Cad., Can Sok., No: 31, KAT:3, Ikitelli, Istanbul, Turkey
Tel: 90-212-4943535
Fax: 90-212-494-3560
E-mail: Atanur.Dikmen@bvcps.com.tr
Contact: Atanur Dikmen

USA
Currently no nominated Lab in the USA.

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

ANN TAYLOR TEST PACKAGE PRICES – SOFTLINES


DESCRIPTION EUROPE FAR EAST / MEXICO
Yarn
Development $115* $92*
Production $145* $112*
-Additional Color (initial submit) $41 $31
-Separate Color Submit $77 $62
Fabric
Development $125* $105*
Production (Before Wash – for $75* $55*
washed programs)
Production (After Wash) $160* $135*
-Additional Color (initial submit) $47 $35
-Separate Color Submit $77 $62
Garment $77* $62*
(excluding leather cleaning cost)
- Denim - $70*
- Others $77* $62*
Trims
Non-Metallic $70* $46*
Metal $290* $152*
Zippers $140* $65*
Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc $60* $24*
Down and Feather $345* $285*
Rubber and Soft Plastic Patches $125* $85*
Size Sticker - $154*

* Does not include additional charges see below:

ADDITIONAL CHARGES FOR USA / EUROPE FAR EAST / MEXICO


YARN & TEXTILE
Quantitative Fiber Analysis
Per Fiber (Chemical) $47 $13
-Each Additional fiber (chemical) $47 $13
Per Fiber (Microscopic) $232 $98
-Each Additional fiber (microscopic) $72 $36
Fiber Content/Yarn–Metallic Fabrics Only $47 per fiber $26 per fiber
Fiber Length $150 $102
Flammability $88 $30
Ozone (1 cycle) $80 $23
Burnt Gas fumes (1 cycle) $90 $23
pH $26 $16
Stretch & Recovery $78 $16
Narrow Elastic Performance $55 $16
Bra Band Elongation $55 $10
Pile Retention $36 $14
Shedding Propensity $55 $32
Colorfastness to Sea Water $21 $7
Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool $21 $11
Formaldehyde (Quantitative) $78 $32
Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 40
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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

ADDITIONAL CHARGES FOR TRIMS EUROPE FAR EAST / MEXICO


Dimensional Stability to Laundering $57 $32
Dimensional Stability to Drycleaning $42 $22
Colorfastness and Appearance after $70 $45 (including 3 sizes/shapes)
Washing
Colorfastness and Appearance after $78 $55 (including 3 sizes/shapes)
Drycleaning
Colorfastness to Crocking $16 $10
Colorfastness to Perspiration $21 $15
Colorfastness and Appearance after $25 $15
Exposure to Sea Water
Colorfastness and Appearance after $30 $20
Exposure to Chlorinated Pool Water
Durability to Impact during Laundering $60 $35 (including 3 sizes/shapes)
Button Centre Strength $25 $12
Snap Action $25 $11
Heavy Metal $125 $45
Nickel Test (Complete) $125 per component $58 per component
Nickel Test (Pre Abrasion) $17 per component $13 per component
Corrosion Resistance $60 $38
Phthalates (in PVC) $150 $85
Cadmium Content $75 $24
BHT Content $125 $82
Lead Content $52 per color $24 per color

NOTE: 1. PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTIFICATION


2. MINIMUM CHARGE PER REPORT: $50.00

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ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES


SOFTLINES (All prices are in US Dollar)
FAR
TEST ITEM TEST METHOD USA/EUROPE
EAST/MEXICO
Fabric Weight Yield ASTM D3776 $21 $12
Twist Per Inch ASTM D3775 $52 $15
Thread Count ASTM D3775 $16 $14
Yarn Size ASTM D1059 / $31 $18
D1907
Fabric Type / Weave Visual $11 $11
Yarn Structure Visual $11 $11
Dimensional Stability
3 Handwashes $44
3 M/C Washes / 5 M/C Washes AATCC 135 /150 $57 / $78 $37 / $48
1 Drycleaning Commercial $42 $23
Flammability
General Apparel 16 CFR PART $88 $46
1610
Abrasion Resistance ASTM D3886 $31 $16
Pilling Resistance
Random Tumble ASTM D3512 $36 $17
Tensile Strength (Length / Width) ASTM D5034 $31 $16
Tear Strength (Length / Width) ASTM D1424 / $31 $16
D2261
Bursting Strength ASTM D3787 $26 $16
pH AATCC 81 $26 $17
Seam Strength ASTM D1683 $31 $12 Per Seam
Yarn Slippage ASTM D1683 $47 $34
Seam Stretchability AATCC TS 015 $31 $12 Per Seam
Stretch & Recovery ASTM D3107/ $78 $26
ASTM D2594
Spray Test AATCC 22 $21 $14
Rain Test
Rain Test AATCC 35 $40 $31
Wash / Drycleaning AATCC 35 $55 $42
Effects of Washing
3 /5/10/25 Washes Per Care Label $47 / $67 / $129/$295 $42 / $59 / $98/
$233
Each Additional Wash $11 $9
Effects of Drycleaning Per Care Label $36 $30

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ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES


SOFTLINES (ALL PRICES ARE IN US DOLLAR)
FAR EAST/
TEST ITEM TEST METHOD EUROPE
MEXICO
Colorfastness Properties
Laundering AATCC 61 $26 $12
Drycleaning AATCC 132 $26 $16
Light AATCC 16E (10 hours) $20 $12
(20 Hours) $31 $18
(40 Hours) $62 $34
Perspiration AATCC 15 $21 $15
Water AATCC 107 $21 $10
Crocking (Dry / Wet) AATCC 8/116 $16 $10
Sea Water AATCC 106 $21 $12
Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 $21 $18
Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS-001 $21 $10
Non-Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS-001 $21 $13
Burnt Gas fumes (1 Cycle) AATCC 23 $75 $23
Ozone (1 Cycle) AATCC 109 $75 $23
Fiber Content
Chemical Method AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 $47/Fiber $14
Microscopic Method AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 $232 / First $100
ASTM D2130 $72 / Additional $37
Air Permeability ASTM D737 $85 $26
Breathability ASTM E96 $150 $23
Absorbency AATCC 79 $50 $12
Wicking BV Method $64 $12
UV Transmittance ASTM D6603 $150 $10
Lead Content 16 CFR 1303, ASTM $52 / Color $25
E1613/E1645 (Mod.)
Heat Aging BV S-1052 - $72
Formaldehyde
Qualitative Spot Test - $16
Quantitative JIS L1041 - $48
Type of Dye / Finish / Coating IR SPECTRA $129 $60
AZO DYE EN14362-2 $129 $57
Wrinkle Free
Fabric / Seams AATCC 143 $98 $82
Fabric only AATCC 124 $55 $42
Fit Properties
Socks HTC Method $98 / Size
Pantyhose HTC Method $129 / Size
Snap Action ASTM D4846 52 (first garment/10 $43
snaps)
36 (add'l garment/ 10 $31
snaps)

NOTE: 1. PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTIFICATION


2. MINIMUM CHARGE PER REPORT: $50.00

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 43


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

ANN TAYLOR ADULT TEST REQUEST FORM—TRIM


Service Requested: Regular (3 working days) Priority (2 working days on selective tests)
Contact Information
Division
Department #
Vendor/Supplier
Vendor Code #
Requestor Name
Telephone
Fax
E-mail
AT Office/Agent Contact

Trim Information
Season
Trim Supplier
Garment Facility/ Factory
Supplier Trim Number
Detailed Sample Description
Sample Style Number
P.O. Number
Color/ Color Combination
Internally Dyed/ Dyed to Match
Coating/ Paint
Size
Material
Nickel-free (Yes/No)
Submitted Care Instructions

Sample Status Trim Test Requested


Retest* - Test Item(s)
Basic Package
Previous Test Report #

Development Additional Color or Size * Must explain below what improvement was made if
retest is for previous restricted substances failure(s)
Production Other (Specify tests: )

Non-Metallic Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc. Feather & Down


Metallic Rubber and soft plastic patches Label
Zippers Other (Please specify) Size Sticker

Required Additional Information


Previous Complete Report #
Comments/Special Instructions

Billing information
Company: Contact:
Address: Telephone: Fax:

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to
incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of
lab receipt at 40% surcharge.

Applicant’s Test Order Number: __________

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 44


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

ANN TAYLOR ADULT TEST REQUEST FORM—FABRIC/ YARN


Service Requested: Regular (3 working days) Priority (2 working days on selective tests)

Contact Information
Division
Department #
Vendor/Supplier
Vendor Code #
Requestor Name
Telephone
Fax
E-mail
AT Office/Agent Contact

Fabric Information
Season
Fabric (or Yarn) Supplier
RMID #/Fabric Quality/Style Number
P.O. Number
Type of Fabric (Woven/Knit)
Construction (i.e. twill, jersey, etc.)
Fabric Weight
Fiber Content
Yarn Dye/Piece Dye
Finishing Applied
Color(s)
Submitted Care Instructions

Sample Status Item(s) to be Tested Fabric Test Requested

Retest * - Test Item(s)


Fabric Basic Package Previous Test Report #
Development
Yarn (in yarn form) Additional Color * Must explain below what
Production improvement was made if retest is for
Yarn (in knitted form) Other (Specify tests: ) previous restricted substances failure(s)

Product Category
Top/Dress/Jacket Bottom Sweater Active/ Swim
Outerwear Intimate Sleepwear
Denim Leather Suits/ Coordinates

Required Additional Information


Previous Complete Test Report #
Comments/Special Instructions

Billing information
Company: Contact:
Address: Telephone: Fax:

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to
incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of
lab receipt at 40% surcharge.
Note: This request form must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process your request. Any incomplete
data results in time delay.

Applicant’s Test Order Number: ___________

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 45


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

ANN TAYLOR ADULT TEST REQUEST FORM—GARMENT


Service Requested: Regular (3 working days) Priority (2 working days on selective test(s)

Contact Information
Division
Department #
Vendor/Supplier
Vendor Code #
Requestor Name
Telephone
Fax
E-mail
AT Office/Agent Contact

Garment Information
Season
Garment Facility (factory)
Style Number
P.O. Number
Reference Style # (if applicable)
Garment Description
Fiber Content
Color/ Color Combination
Garment Finish (i.e. garment wash, etc.)
Submitted Care Instructions

Sample Status Garment Test Requested


Retest * - Test Item(s)
Development Basic Package Previous Test Report #

* Must explain below what improvement was made if


Production Other (Specify tests: ) retest is for previous restricted substances failure(s)

Product Category
Top/Dress/Jacket Bottom Sweater Suits/ Coordinates
Denim Intimate Sleepwear Active/ Swim
Outerwear Leather

Required Additional Information


Previous Complete Test Report #
Comments/Special Instructions

Billing information
Company: Contact:
Address: Telephone: Fax:

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to
incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of
lab receipt at 40% surcharge.
Note: This request form must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process your request. Any incomplete
data results in time delay.

Applicant’s Test Order Number: ______________

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 46


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

PRODUCT PERFORMANCE
The following performance standards and testing protocols were developed to effectively analyze
and monitor the physical characteristics of trims, yarns, textiles, and garments to ensure their
compliance with all federal, state, international and local requirements. The standards and
procedures were developed based on actual physical test data and in accordance with guidelines
established by the:

• American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)


• American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM)
• British Standards (BS)
• Code of Federal Regulations (CFR)
• Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
• Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA)
• Federal Trade Commission (FTC)
• Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

These specifications will be updated periodically to reflect changes in technology and data
available or as new fibers / fabrications are developed.

The fabric performance standards listed in this manual are generally suitable for the garment
applications stated. However, each individual garment must be reviewed for special
requirements.

All suppliers are required to ensure that their products meet these performance specifications. If
a product cannot meet these specifications, the supplier is required to notify Ann Taylor in writing
prior to the placement of an order for that product.

The garment manufacturer must report any problems with the fabric, trim, accessories, or the
design/construction of the garment to the regional Ann Taylor Production Office/Agent and
suggest ways to correct the problem.

COLORFASTNESS:

The supplier must take every possible step to assure that the colorfastness requirements are
met.
Such steps include, but are not limited to, the selection of the best dyestuffs available, extra
rinsing,
dye fixation, etc.
Note: All cotton fabrics must be dyed with reactive or vat dyes. Indigo dyes can be used
where applicable. Sulfur or direct dyes are not acceptable, unless specifically requested by
Ann Taylor for special effects.

WATER RESISTANCE:

In order for a garment to qualify for the special “water resistance” classification/duty, it must be
coated with a rubber or plastic application AND pass a water resistance test (AATCC 35; < 1
gram). The water resistance MUST be a direct result of the rubber or plastic application.

FIBER CONTENT

All analyses for fiber content are to use AATCC 20, 20A, ASTM D276 & D629.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 47


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

FLAMMABILITY

All fabrics and (fabric) trims must meet the requirements of the United States Flammable Fabrics Act,
Class 1 (Consumer Product Safety Commission, Standard 16 CFR 1610).

Note 1: If “anti-flammability” chemical finishes are used, then the supplier must notify Ann Taylor.
Special testing will be required.
Note 2: Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and/or
garment stage, it is the supplier's responsibility to make sure all applicable trims would comply
with the normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a
larger form before proceeding with production.

a. All fabrics with an “intentionally raised fiber or yarn surface” must be tested for flammability, if
such surface is “exposed” on the garment. These are fabrics that are sanded, napped, brushed,
tufted, etc. It does not matter if the raising of the fibers is done in yarn or fabric form.

The test must always be performed on the fabric side that has the raised surface, no matter which
side of the fabric will be used as the “face side”.

Even if the raised surface is to be used as the inside of the garment it should be tested, if there is
the possibility of a consumer exposing it by the way the garment is worn (i.e. turn up the sleeves
for wearing). If the garment will be lined so that the raised surface cannot be exposed, then it
need not be tested.

Note: As it is not clear on the term “raised yarn surface”, such fabrics as french terry, terry, and
very coarse or loose knit sweaters or coarse sweaters with loose floats should also be tested.

Exceptions: Fabrics with a raised surface do not have to be tested if they are manufactured entirely
with these fibers, or blends including only these specific fibers, regardless of weight: Acrylic,
Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, or Wool.

b. All fabrics weighing less than 2.6 oz/square yard (88 grms/square meter) must be tested unless
composed entirely of the following fibers: Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Wool

c. Plain surface fabrics, regardless of fiber content, weighting 2.6 oz/square yard (88 grms/square
meter) or more, do not have to be tested for flammability.

d. Hats (if they do not cover the face or neck), gloves, footwear, and interlinings are exempt from
flammability testing.

e. The testing requirement applies to all parts of the garment, including trim.

f. Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and /or garment
stage, it is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure all applicable trim would comply with the
normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger
form before proceeding with production.

g. If incorrect fiber content is claimed by the supplier, but through actual fiber analysis by the lab it is
determined that flammability testing is in fact required, this test will automatically be performed by
the laboratory.

h. Anti-flammability chemicals: If such chemical finishes are used, then the supplier must notify Ann
Taylor, and special testing will be required.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 48


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Feather and down material must be:


• tested for composition
• properly cleaned and disinfected.

Penetration Resistance of fabric:


• All fabrics intended for use in feather and down garments must pass “Penetration
Resistance of cloth to feather and down”: FTMS 191, method 5530 (modified) or IDFB
Method 5530.
o The test must be done with actual down/feather mix that will be used (instead of
the standard 60/40 feather/down mix)
o The test report must state the down/feather composition used for the test.

• If any other fiber fill is used (i.e. polyfill or fiber batten), a representative sample of the
construction must be tested.

Nickel
Any metal part that comes in prolonged contact with the skin must be “free of nickel”.

Nickel-free: The requirement is a “transfer to the skin” measurement, and the standard is: <0.5
micrograms per square centimeter per week.

Examples of various types of skin contact:


• Metal accessories on outerwear usually do not come in contact with the skin except
maybe the back of snaps on the cuffs, etc.
• The back of rivets on pants can come in contact with the skin (but not the part of the rivet
that is on the outside of the garment).
• The back of snaps on a shirt definitely can be in contact with the skin (but not the part of
the snap that is on the outside of the garment).
• Metal zippers on outerwear usually do not come in contact with the skin.
• Metal zippers on a sweatshirt will come in contact with the skin (unless it has a cover flap
underneath).

The garment manufacturer must order items as “nickel-free” if required.

Lead
a. In accordance with 16 CFR 1303, any paint or coating used must not contain more than
0.06% (600 ppm) of lead.
Examples:
• Painted buttons, snaps, zippers, etc.
• Pigment prints and dyes
• Coating and lamination of fabric

b. In accordance with EPA 3051 modified (San Francisco Supreme Court 317256, CGC-02-
403328 and CGC-05-440721), material containing PVC must not contain more than 30
ppm of lead.

Examples:
• PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats.
• Decals and attachment on clothing

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 49


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

TESTING PROTOCOLS

Ann Taylor Corporate


1. Bottoms (Career/Casual Skirt/Short/Pant) 001
2. Tops, Dresses, Jackets (Career/Casual) 002
3. Suits and Coordinates (Career/Casual) 003
4. Outerwear 004
5. Denim Apparel (Indigo-dyed) 005
6. Intimates (including bras, camisoles, panties) 006
7. Sleepwear 007
8. Active/Swim Wear (incl. leotards, sweatshirts/tops, 008
sweatpants/shorts)Sweaters
9. Sweaters 009
10. Leather 010
11. Additional Testing (as applicable) 011
12. Non-Metallic Trim 812
13. Trims made of metal 813
14. Zippers 814
15. Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc. 815
16. Down and Feather 816
17. Rubber and Soft Plastic Patches 817
18. Labels 560
19. Size Sticker 561
20. Yarn in Yarn Form 719
21.Yarn in Knitted Form 720
Branded & Co-branded
1. Bottoms (Career/Casual Skirt/Short/Pant) 001A
2. Tops, Dresses, Jackets (Career/Casual) 002A
3. Suits and Coordinates (Career/Casual) 003A
4. Outerwear 004A
5. Denim Apparel (Indigo-dyed) 005A
6. Intimates (including bras, camisoles, panties) 006A
9. Sweaters 009A

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 50


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

BOTTOMS (#001)
Page 1 of 3
(CAREER/CASUAL SKIRT/SHORT/PANT)

FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon
request
(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(see “Performance
Specifications -
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
TO WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
fabrics: Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand
Hand wash, line dry or Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: wash)
flat dry -7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
TO DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING care Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
(3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance

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Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Bottoms #001 (page 2 of 3)


Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Performance (cont’d)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in One color only
/APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM appearance
PRESS Length x Width (max %)
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3% One color only
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
< 4 oz/sq yard: 25
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 40
Lining/pocketing: 20
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
<4 oz/sq yard: 2.0
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0
Lining: 1.8
Pocketing: 2.0
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D434 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
(6 mm slippage) 20

Prototype seam Lining: 15


Pocketing: 20
PILLING ASTM D3512 Minimum: Knit/woven: One color only
Random Tumble All others: 3.5 Knits only: If failure, test 2
Knits: 30 minutes Brushed/peached: 3 additional colors.
Wovens: 1 hour Polyester/nylon: 3

BS EN ISO 12945 Part


1 3.5
Specialty animal fibers: 3.5
2 hours
Other animal fibers: 4
hours
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Knits: One color only
Fabric Weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 40
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 55
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4

COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All colors


CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4

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Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Colorfastness, cont’d Bottoms #001 (page 3 of 3)
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except white)
CROCKING Light: 3/4 Lab discretion on light colors
Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 and certain neutrals
Pigment/ sulfur 2/3
Sueded (brushed,
peached, sanded)
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All colors
Option 3, 20 hours Light/neutral colors: 3.5 (except lining/pocketing
Silk:10 hours All others: 4 fabrics)

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Minimum (lbs): 20 Actual seams; all
BV S1027 Stress Points: 15 seams
BV S1029 Pockets (decorative/functional):
10/20
Belt loops/pleats: 10
Lining: 15 lbs
TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
(Attachment strength Snap BV S1044
attachment strength Hook &
Eye/Bar attachment strength)

ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands


Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 53


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Page 1 of 3

TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002) (CAREER/CASUAL)

FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%

YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request


(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(See “Performance
Specifications -Flammability
for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven-One color only
WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits—all colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
Hand wash, line dry or flat Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand wash)
dry Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-
10/+3
Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven - -One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits—all colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in One color only
/APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM appearance
PRESS Length x Width (max %)
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

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Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Tops/Dresses #002, page 2 of 3


Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Performance, continued
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3% One color only
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color
General fabrics: only
< 4 oz/sq yard: 20
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 40
Lining/pocketing: 20 lbs
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color
Fabric Weight: only
<4 oz/sq yard: 1.8
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0
Lining: 1.8
Pocketing: 2.0
SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH ASTM D434 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color
(6 mm slippage and strength) 15 only
Prototype seam Lining: 15
Pocketing: 20
PILLING ASTM D3512 Minimum Knit/woven: One color
Random Tumble All others: 3.5 only
Knits: 30 minutes Brushed/peached: 3 Knits only: If failure,
Wovens: 1 hour Polyester/nylon: 3 test 2 additional
colors.
BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1
Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs 3.5
Other animal fibers: 4 hrs 3.5
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Knits: One color only
Fabric Weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 40
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 55
Lace: 35
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except
CROCKING Light: 3/4 white)
Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Lab discretion on light
Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3 colors and certain
Sueded (brushed, peached, neutrals
sanded)
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All colors
Option 3, 20 hours Light/neutral colors: 3.5 (except
Silk:10 hours All others: 4 lining/pocketing
fabrics)

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Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
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GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 X -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Seams/Stress points: 15 Actual seams; all seams
BV S1027 Pockets
(Decorative/Functional): 5/10
BV S1029 Pleats/belt loops: 10
Lining: 15
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider
lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. #814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 56


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

SUITS/COORDINATES (#003) (CAREER/CASUAL)

FABRIC TESTING Page 1 of 3


Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber:-no tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: -+/- 3%

YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request


(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
Hand wash, line dry or flat Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand
dry Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: wash)
-7/+3 X -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle: -10/+3 X-
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others: -3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in One color only
/APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM appearance
PRESS Length x Width (max %)
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 57


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Suits/Coordinates #003, Page 2 of 3
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Performance (cont’d)
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3% One color only
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
< 4 oz/sq yard: 25
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 40
Lining/pocketing: 20
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
<4 oz/sq yard: 2
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0
Lining: 1.8
Pocketing: 2.0
SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH ASTM D434 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
(6 mm slippage and 15
strength) Lining: 15
Prototype seam Pocketing: 20
PILLING ASTM D3512 Minimum Knit/woven: One color
Random Tumble All others: 3.5 only
Knits: 30 minutes Brushed/peached: 3 Knits only: If failure, test 2
Wovens: 1 hour Polyester/nylon: 3 additional colors.

BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1


Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs 3.5
Other animal fibers: 4 hrs 3.5
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Knits: One color only
Fabric Weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 40
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 55
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61 / AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 58


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Suits/Coordinates #003,
Page 3 of 3
Colorfastness (con’t)
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except white)
CROCKING Light: 3/4 Lab discretion on light
Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 colors and certain neutrals
Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3
Sueded (brushed, peached,
sanded)
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All colors
Option 3, 20 hours Light/neutral colors: 3.5 (except lining/pocketing
Silk: 10 hours All others: 4 fabrics)

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Minimum (lbs) Actual seams; all seams
BV S 1027 Seams/stress points: 15
BV S 1029 Pockets (decorative/functional):
5/10
Pleats/belt loops: 10
Lining: 15
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 59


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

OUTERWEAR (#004)

FABRIC TESTING Page 1 of 3


Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request
(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(See “Performance
Specifications-
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
Hand wash, line dry or flat Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand
dry Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: wash)
-7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in One color only
/APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM appearance
PRESS Length x Width (max %)
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 60


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Outerwear #004, Page 2 of 3


Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Performance (cont’d)
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3% One color only
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
< 6 oz/sq yard: 40
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 50
Lining/pocketing: 20
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
<6 oz/sq yard: 2.5
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0
Lining: 1.8
Pocketing: 2.0
SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH ASTM D434 (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
(6 mm slippage and 25
strength) Lining: 15
Prototype seam Pocketing: 20
PILLING ASTM D3512 Minimum Knit/woven: One color only
Random Tumble All others: 3.5 Knits only: If failure, test 2
Knits: 30 minutes Brushed/peached: 3 additional colors.
Wovens: 1 hour Polyester/nylon: 3

BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1


Specialty animal fibers:2 hrs 3.5
Other animal fibers: 4 hrs 3.5
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Knits: One color only
Fabric Weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 40
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 55
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO WATER AATCC 107 Minimum All colors (except white)
Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; all colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; all colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except white)
CROCKING Light: 3/4 Lab discretion on light
Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 colors and certain neutrals
Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3
Sueded (brushed, peached,
sanded)
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All colors
Option 3 Light/neutral colors: 3.5 (except lining/pocketing
20 hours All others: 4 fabrics)

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 61


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
STABILITY TO (as per care Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
WASHING/ instructions) Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
DRYCLEANING
Rayon/blends -5/+5
For “dryclean only”
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3
fabrics: x -7/+3
Hand wash, line dry Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3
or flat dry Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Length x Width (max. %)
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
WASHING/ care Self-staining: 4.5
DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRY Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
CLEANING
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM ASTM D1683 Seams: 25 Actual seams; all seams
STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE BV S 1027 Stress Points: 20
BV S1029 Pockets
(decorative/functional): 10/20
Pleats/belt loops: 10
Lining; 15
DOWNPROOFNESS IDFL 5530 Minimum 4 If down product
(Tumbling Method)
FTM 191, Method 5530
(modified)
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment (not limited to buttons
strength and snaps)
Snap attachment strength
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 62


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

DENIM APPAREL (#005)


Page 1 of 3

(All tests are to be done after the final wash treatment)


Note: For “before-wash” required tests, see “Textile Production Testing”, pages 20-21

FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% All washes, one color
(oz/sq yard) only
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% All washes, one color
only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends-: +/- 3%
YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request

PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative For all “washes” - one
MTL C1007 color only.

If positive, proceed with 75 ppm


JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 4.5-7 After final wash
treatments; all
“colors/washes”
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 (See “Performance
Specifications-
Flammability for details)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Washable fabrics
WASHING (as per care instructions) -3/+3 x -3/+3 All washes, one color
only.
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Dryclean fabrics
DRYCLEANING -2/+2 x -2/+2 All washes, one color
only
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 All washes, one color
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 only
No visual change in
appearance
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in All washes, one color
/APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM appearance only
PRESS Length x Width (max %)
-2/+2 x -2/+2
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 3% All washes, one color only
LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 63


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Denim #005, Page 2 of 3
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Performance, con’t
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) All washes, one color only
Fabric Weight:
<5 oz/sq yard: 30
5-7.9 oz/sq yard: 40
8-9.9 oz/sq yard: 50
10-11.9 oz/sq yard: 60
>12 oz/sq yard: 70
Lining/pocketing: 20
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) All washes, one color only
Fabric Weight:
ASTM D2261 (>10 oz/yd2) <5 oz/sq yard: 2
5-7.9 oz/sq yard: 3
8-9.9 oz/sq yard: 4
10-11.9 oz/sq yard:5
>12: 6
Lining: 1.8
Pocketing: 2
SEAM SLIPPAGE/ ASTM D434 (min. lbs)
STRENGTH Prototype seam Fabric Weight: All washes, one color only
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 15
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 25
Lining: 15
Pocketing: 20
ABRASION ASTM D3886 No rupture of yarn. All washes, one color only
300 cycles
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum: All washes, all colors
LAUNDERING / Hand washables: 1A Color change: 4 (as applicable)
DRYCLEANING Machine washables: 2A Color staining: 3
Warm:49C Cold: 40C Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 Washable fabrics;
CHLORINE BLEACH All washes, all colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 Washable fabrics; all
CHLORINE BLEACH washes, all colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All washes, all colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum: All washes, all colors
CROCKING Dry: 3; Wet 2
If dry crocking does not
meet Class 3, or wet
crocking class 2, wash 1X
according to the care label of
garment and repeat crocking
test.
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All washes, all colors
Option 3 Light colors: 3.5 Except lining/ pocketing
20 hours All others: 4 fabrics
COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE AATCC 109 (1 cycle) Minimum 4 All washes, all colors
COLORFASTNESS TO BURNT AATCC 23 (1 cycle) Minimum 4 All washes, all colors
GAS FUMES

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 64


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Denim #005, Page 3 of 3


GARMENT TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Compliance to regulation;
Verification of label
CARE LABEL 16 CFR 423 Compliance to regulation;
Verification of label
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO As per care instructions Length x Width (max %)
HOME LAUNDERING/ Laundering: 3 cycles Washing: -3/+3 x -3/+3
DRYCLEANING Dryclean: 1cycle Dryclean: -2/+2 x -2/+2
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Dry: 3; Wet: 2 All washes, all colors
CROCKING Remark: If dry crocking does
not meet Class 3, or wet
crocking class 2, wash
garment 1X according to the
care label of garment and
repeat crocking test.
If the crocking improves to a
satisfactory rating, the fabric
can be accepted, provided
that the care instruction is
modified to include “wash
before wearing” (before all
other instructions).
APPEARANCE AFTER As per care instructions Color change: 4
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Laundering: 3 cycles No visible staining
Dryclean: 1cycle Appearance satisfactory
TWIST AFTER AATCC 179 Maximum 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2
SEAM STRENGTH/ SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Minimum (lbs) All seams
BV S1027 Fabric Weight:
BV S1029 <4 oz/sq yard: 15
4.1-8 oz/sq yard: 20
>8.1 oz/sq yard: 25
Pockets: 20
Belt loops: 10
Lining: 15
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider
lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 65


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

INTIMATES (#006)
(Including Bras, Camisoles, Panties)

Page 1 of 3

FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%

YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request


(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(see “Performance
Specifications - Flammability
for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
Hand wash, line dry or flat Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand wash)
dry Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in One color only
/APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM appearance
PRESS Length x Width (max %)
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 66


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Intimates #006, Page 2 of 3

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


Performance (cont’d)
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3% One color only
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
< 4 oz/sq yard: 20
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 40
Lining/Pocketing: 20
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
<4 oz/sq yard: 1.8
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0
Lining: 1.8
Pocketing: 2
SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH ASTM D434 (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
(6 mm slippage and Fabric Weight:
strength) <4 oz/sq yard: 15
Prototype seam 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 25
Lining: 15
Pocketing: 20
PILLING ASTM D3512 Minimum Knit/woven: One color only
Random Tumble All others: 3.5 Knits only: If failure, test 2
Knits: 30 minutes Brushed/peached: 3 additional colors.
Wovens: 1 hour Polyester/nylon: 3

BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1


Specialty animal fibers: 2 3.5
hrs
Other animal fibers: 4 3.5
hrs
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Knits: One color only
Fabric Weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 40
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 55
Lace: 35
NARROW ELASTICS ASTM D4964 85% Recovery As required for narrow
PERFORMANCE elastics
BRA BAND ELONGATION BV S1019 Maximum setting: 2.4-3.5 lbs Bra bands only
Minimum setting: 1.5-2.5 lbs
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm

COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All colors


BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; all colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 67


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Intimates #006, Page 3 of 3
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Colorfastness (cont’d)
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Multifiber 49 Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except white)
Light: 3/4 Lab discretion on light colors
Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 and certain neutrals
Pigment/ sulfur 2/3
Sueded (brushed, peached,
sanded)

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
DRYCLEANING care Self-staining: 4.5
(3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 <4 oz/sq yard: 15 Actual seams; all seams
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 25
Bras:
Strap joining/Cup Seam/Front:
15 lbs or 40% elongation
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum: 15 lbs. All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons
Snap attachment strength and snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. #814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 68


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

SLEEPWEAR (#007)
Page 1 of 3

FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber:: No tolerance One color only
ASTM D276/629 Blends: +/- 3%

YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request


(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
Blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(see “Performance
Specifications - Flammability for
details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
WASHING (as per care Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
instructions) Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
For “dryclean only” Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand wash)
fabrics: Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
Hand wash, line dry or -7/+3 x -7/+3
flat dry Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING care Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
(3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in One color only


/APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM appearance
PRESS Length x Width (max %)
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 69


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Sleepwear #007, Page 2 of 3

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


Performance (cont’d)
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3% One color only
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
< 4 oz/sq yard: 25
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 40
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
<4 oz/sq yard: 2.0
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0
SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH ASTM D434 (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
(6 mm slippage and Fabric Weight:
strength) <4 oz/sq yard: 15
Prototype seam 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 25
PILLING ASTM D3512 Minimum Knit/woven: One color only
Random Tumble All others: 3.5 Knits only: If failure, test 2
Knits: 30 minutes Brushed/peached: 3 additional colors.
Wovens: 1 hour Polyester/nylon: 3

BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1


Specialty animal fibers: 2 3.5
hrs
Other animal fibers: 4 3.5
hrs
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Knits: One color only
Fabric Weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 40
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 55
Lace: 35
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; all colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All colors
BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (Wet/Dry) All colors (except white)
Light: 3/4 Lab discretion on light colors
Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 and certain neutrals
Pigment/ sulfur 2/3
Sueded (brushed, peached,
sanded).

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 70


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Sleepwear # 007, Page 3 of 3
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -
10/+3
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 <4 oz/sq yard: 15 Actual seams; all seams
BV S1027 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20
BV S1029 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25
Pockets
(decorative/functional): 5/10
Belt loops: 10
Lining: 15
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum: 15 lbs. All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider
lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 71


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

TESTING ACTIVE/SWIMWEAR (#008)


(Including Leotards, Sweatshirts/tops, sweatpants/shorts)
Page 1 of 4
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)

FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only


FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%

YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request


(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(See “Performance
Specifications - Flammability
for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (Max. %) Woven: One color only
WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
Hand wash, line dry or flat Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand wash)
dry Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x --
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco No visual change in One color only
/APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM appearance Note: This test does not
PRESSING Length x Width (max. %) apply to swimwear fabrics
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 72


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Active/Swim #008, Page 2 of 4


Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Performance (cont’d)
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3% One color only
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
< 4 oz/sq yard: 25
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 40
Lining/pocketing: 20
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
General fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
<4 oz/sq yard: 2
4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0
Lining: 1.8
Pocketing: 2
SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH ASTM D434 (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
(6 mm slippage and Fabric Weight:
strength) <4 oz/sq yard: 15
Prototype seam 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 25
Lining: 15
Pocketing: 20
PILLING ASTM D3512 Minimum Knit/woven: One color only
Random Tumble All others: 3.5 Knits only: If failure, test 2
Knits: 30 minutes Brushed/peached: 3 additional colors.
Wovens: 1 hour Polyester/nylon: 3

BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1


Animal fibers: 4 hrs 3.5
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Knits: One color only
Fabric Weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 40
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 55
Lace: 35
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO WATER AATCC 107 Minimum All colors (except white)
Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 All colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 All colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 73


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Active/Swim #008, Page 3 of 4
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Colorfastness, con’t
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except white)
CROCKING Light: 3/4 Lab discretion on light colors
Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 and certain neutrals
Pigment/ sulfur 2/3
Sueded (brushed, peached,
sanded)
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All colors
Option 3 Light/neutral colors: 3.5 (except lining/pocketing
Activewear: 20 hours All others: 4 fabrics)
Swimwear: 40 hours Neon: 2.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 162 Minimum color change: All colors
CHLORINATED POOL WATER All others: 4 Swimwear only
Pigment dye/prints: 3.5
Self-staining: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 106 Minimum All colors
SEAWATER Color change: 4 Swimwear only
(Pigment dyes/prints: 3.5)
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4

**If making additional “claims” on the garment (such as “breathable”, “absorbent”, “wicking”,
etc.), additional testing will be required. Consult with Director of Fabric and Testing and see
“Additional Testing”.

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
AATCC 150, 1 cycle -3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 <4 oz/sq yard: 15 Actual seams; all seams
BV S1027 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20
BV S1029 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25

Stress Points: 20
Pockets
(decorative/functional):10/20
Pleats/belt loops: 10
Lining: 15

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 74


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Active/Swim #008, Page 4 of 4
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
Garment Testing (cont’d)

TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum: 15 lbs. All on garment


BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider
lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 75


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

SWEATERS (#009)
Page 1 of 3
FABRIC TESTING
(Performed after final factory garment wash)

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only

FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTM D276/629 Blends: +/- 3%

YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request


(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(See “Performance
Specifications-
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) All colors
WASHING (as per care instructions) Rayon/blends: -5/+5
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Washable fabrics;
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Dryclean only (hand
Hand wash, line dry or flat Others -5/+3 wash)
dry
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (Max. %) All colors
DRYCLEANING -5/+2 x -5/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 76


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Sweaters #009, Page 2 of 3

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


Performance (cont’d)
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Maximum 3% One color only
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Method 1, Option 2
PILLING BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Minimum One color only
Specialty animal fibers: 2 3.5 If failure, test 2
hrs additional colors.
Other animal fibers: 4 hrs 3.5
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) 40 One color only
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except white)
CROCKING Light: 3/4 Lab discretion on light
Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 colors and certain
Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 neutrals
Sueded (brushed, peached,
sanded)
COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All colors
Option 3, 20 hours Light/neutral colors: 3.5
Silk:10 hours All others: 4

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 77


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Sweaters #009, Page 3 of 3

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
GARMENT WEIGHT Standard Measure Report Actual - lbs per dozen

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)


WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Rayon/blends: -5/+5
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Others: -5/+3
-5/+2 x -5/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation All seams, stress points,
pockets (decorative/
functional)
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider
lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 78


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

LEATHER (#010)
Page 1 of 3
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
MATERIAL IDENTIFICATION Microscopic Verify leather material One color only
Leather Shell (man-made; genuine; etc)

FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Verify content of lining. One color only
Lining Fabric ASTMD276/629

MATERIAL WEIGHT One color only


Leather Shell ASTM D3776 +/- 5%
Lining Fabric
LEATHER THICKNESS ASTM D1813 +/- 5% One color only
PERFORMANCE
pH AATCC 81 Leather, wool/wool blends, All colors
bleached white fabric: 4.5-7

Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
Leather (See “Performance
Lining Fabric Specifications-
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO Professional Leather Length x Width (max. %) Leather: One color only
LEATHER CLEANING Cleaning, 1 cycle Leather: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Woven:: One color only
Knits: All colors
Lining fabric: Lining Fabric
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knit: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER Professional Leather Clean, Color change: 4 As above
LEATHER CLEANING 1 cycle Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance.

BREAKING STRENGTH OF ASTM D2208 Minimum (lbs): 25 One color only


LEATHER
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 Minimum (lbs): 20 Wovens: one color only
(of lining fabric)
TEAR STRENGTH OF ASTM D4704 Minimum (lbs) : 2 One color only
LEATHER
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 Min. lbs Wovens: one color only
(of lining fabric) 1.8
DURABILITY OF LEATHER ASTM D6182 Rank 1 One color only
FINISH (no damage)
(flexing method)

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 79


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Leather #010, Page 2 of 3


Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Color change: 4 Lining fabric only
PERSPIRATION Color staining: 3.5 All colors
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (wet/dry) All colors (except white)
CROCKING 2/3 Lab discretion on light
Lining: colors and certain neutrals
2.5/3.5: med/dark colors
3 / 4: light colors

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT AATCC 16 Minimum All colors


Option 3; 20 hours Light colors: 3.5 (Leather and trim, except
All others: 4 lining fabrics).

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO Professional Leather Length x Width (Max. %)
LEATHER CLEANING Cleaning, 1 cycle -2/+2 x -2/+2
(INCLUDING DIFFERENTIAL
SHRINKAGE)
APPEARANCE AFTER Professional Leather Color change: 4
LEATHER CLEANING Cleaning, 1 cycle Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE ASTM D1683 Minimum (lbs)
Lining to garment: 15
Other seams: 20
Stress points:20
Pockets
(Decorative/Functional):
10/20
Lining: 15
TRIM PERFORMANCE BV S1023 Minimum (lbs): 15 All on garment
BV S1044
(Button Attachment strength (not limited to buttons and
Snap attachment strength snaps)
Hook & Eye/Bar attachment
strength)
ZIPPER TEST ASTM D2061 Zipper Operability All zipper brands
Chain Crosswise Strength
Top Stop Holding
Holding Strength of slider
lock
Bottom Stop Holding (if
applicable)
Note: See spec. # 814 for
requirements.
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 For trim, if applicable
16 CFR 1611 (See “Performance
Specifications-
Flammability for details)
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 80


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

ADDITIONAL TESTING (#011)


Page 1 of 1
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
PILE RETENTION ASTM D4685 Option A: Corduroy, velvet, velour
(use CS-10 Abradant) Face : Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles One color only
Option A Back: Min Class 4.0 @ 100 cycles
Fabric >7.0 oz/sq yard:
Option B:
500g head weight Face – Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles
Option B Back – Min Class 4.0 @ 50 cycles
Fabric <7.0 oz/sq yard
250g headweight
ADHESION TEST/FIBER BV S1036 Fiber removal maximum Faux fur only
SHEDDING PROPENSITY 50 x 10-3 grams
STRETCH ASTM D2594 KNIT: One color only (must submit
AND RECOVERY / use “Growth” for F or samples with elastic content > FABRIC for testing)
TENSION AND pass/fail determination. 10% (60 sec.)
Growth: 5%
ELONGATION OF
Recovery: 85% (information only)
ELASTIC FABRICS For samples with elastic content
< 10% (1hr.)
Growth: 7%
Recovery: 70% (information only)

Swimwear / Action Wear:


Elongation: One color only (must submit
Warp Knit: Lengthwise 120% min.
ASTM D4964 FABRIC for testing)
Widthwise 75% min.
Weft Knit: Lengthwise 75% min.
Widthwise 120% min.
Recovery:
85% minimum
ASTM D3107 WOVEN: One color on stretch direction
For samples with elastic content > only (must submit FABRIC for
10% (30 sec.) testing)
Recovery: 85%
Growth: 5%
For samples with elastic content <
10% (1hr.)
Recovery: 70%
Growth: 7%
ASTM D4964 Narrow Fabrics As required for narrow elastics
85% recovery (intimates, etc.)
RAIN TEST AATCC 35 Coated fabric: “Rainwear” only;
(2 ft, 2 min) Maximum One color
1 gram of water penetration Test before and after coating,
since the water-resistance
Uncoated fabric: must be a direct result of the
>1 gram of water penetration coating, and not any prior
finish.
SPRAY TEST AATCC 22 Original: 90 ISO Only if claimed to be “water
Washed (3X): 70 ISO resistant”
Drycleaned (1X) One color only
(as per care instructions)
AIR PERMEABILITY ASTM D737 Minimum: 10 If claiming “windproof”

COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 109, 1 cycle Minimum: 4 Indigo and whites only


OZONE
GAS FUMES FADING AATCC 23, 1 cycle Minimum: 4 Indigo and whites only

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 81


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

BREATHABILITY ASTM E96 > 500 gr/sq.mt./24 hr If claiming “moisture


management”

ABSORBENCY AATCC 79 Max 30 sec If claiming “moisture


management”

WICKING BV S 1038 Min 3 inches at 30 min. If claiming “moisture


management”

UV TRANSMITTANCE ASTM D6603 Lab to advise standards If claiming “UV resistant”

DOWNPROOFNESS IDFL 5530 (Tumbling Minimum 4 Down products only


Method)
FTMS 191, Method 5530
(modified)
AFTER WASH CROCKING AATCC 8 If dry crocking does not meet Denim, pigment, sulphur,
TEST Class 3.5, or wet crocking suede, etc.
class 2.0 wash 1X according to
the care label and repeat test.
If the crocking improves to a
satisfactory rating, the fabric
can be accepted, provided that
the care instruction is modified
to include “wash before
wearing” (before all other
instructions).

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco
Superior Court,
317256, CGC-02-
403328, and CGC-05-
440721)
Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PU 100 ppm All Colors

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 82


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

BASIC CARE LABELS

AT01 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry cool iron if
needed.
AT02 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, do not iron or
dryclean.
AT03 Machine wash cold, do not bleach, tumble dry low, warm iron if needed.
AT04 Machine wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if needed.
AT05 Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low
remove promptly, warm iron if needed.
AT06 Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed.
AT07 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if
needed.
AT08 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if
needed.
AT09 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed tumble dry low, warm iron if
needed.
AT10 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat , cool iron if needed.
AT11 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean.
AT12 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm iron if needed.
AT13 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean.
AT14 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove
promptly, warm iron if needed.
AT15 Machine wash warm, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or
dryclean.
AT16 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove
promptly, do not iron.
AT17 Machine wash warm, only non-chorine bleach when needed, tumble dry medium remove
promptly, warm iron if needed.
AT18 Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove
promptly, cool iron if needed.
AT19 Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed.
AT20 Dryclean
AT21 Professionally leather clean only
AT22 Dryclean only
AT23 Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if
needed.
AT24 Dryclean, do not steam press.

Remark: “Wash with like colors” maybe used on SOLID COLOR garments if color staining on multifiber
strip does not exceed class 2.5 in the colorfastness to washing test.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 83


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

BRANDED & CO-BRANDED PRODUCT

Ann Taylor will also engage in the retailing of branded and co-branded product. In order to
ensure corporate and regulatory compliance, such products must be tested by an
independent testing laboratory prior to delivery.

Test protocols for branded and co-branded product can be found on pages 83 to 96 of
this manual.
Note: These are not the same as test protocols for Ann Taylor Corporate.

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 84


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

BRANDED & CO-BRANDED


BOTTOMS (#001A)
Page 1 of 2
(CAREER/CASUAL SKIRT/SHORT/PANT)
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(see “Performance
Specifications -
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
TO WASHING (as per care Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
instructions) Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
For “dryclean only” Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand
fabrics: Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: - wash)
Hand wash, line dry or 7/+3 x -7/+3
flat dry Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
TO DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING care Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
(3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance

COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors

COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001


CHLORINE BLEACH Minimum Washable fabrics; All
Color change: 4 colors

FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only


MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 85


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
GARMENT TESTING

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
APPEARANCE AFTER
care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING
No visual change in appearance
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried paint
or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. Only if supplier indicated
EN12472 micrograms per square that the item is “nickel-
(report results with and centimeter per week free”.
without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special colors)

For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on
clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior
Court, 317256, CGC-02-
403328, and CGC-05-
440721)
Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PU 100 ppm All Colors

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 86


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

BRANDED & CO-BRANDED


TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002A)
(CAREER/CASUAL)
FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(See “Performance
Specifications -Flammability
for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven-One color only
WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits—all colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
Hand wash, line dry or flat Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand wash)
dry Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-
10/+3
Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven - -One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits—all colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance

COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4

FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only


MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 87


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
-7/+3 X -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried
paint or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than Only if supplier
EN12472 0.5. micrograms per square indicated that the item
(report results with and centimeter per week is “nickel-free”.
without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special
colors)

If material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and
attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage.
Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PU 100 ppm All Colors

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 88


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

BRANDED & CO-BRANDED


SUITS/COORDINATES (#003A)
(CAREER/CASUAL)
FABRIC TESTING Page 1 of 2
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber:-no tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: -+/- 3%

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only


(See “Performance
Specifications -
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
Hand wash, line dry or flat Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand
dry Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: wash)
-7/+3 X -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle: -10/+3 X-
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others: -3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance

COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61 / AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40 C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors

FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only


MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), Wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8

Page 2 of 2

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 89


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in appearance
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes

Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried paint
or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. Only if supplier
EN12472 micrograms per square indicated that the item
(report results with and centimeter per week is “nickel-free”.
without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special
colors)

For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and
attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PU 100 ppm All Colors

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 90


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

BRANDED & CO-BRANDED


OUTERWEAR (#004A)

FABRIC TESTING Page 1 of 2


Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only
(See “Performance
Specifications-
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
Knits:
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
Hand wash, line dry or flat Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand
dry Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: wash)
-7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance

COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; all colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; all colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), All colors
Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 91


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Page 2 of 2

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
STABILITY TO (as per care Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
WASHING/ instructions) Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
DRYCLEANING
Rayon/blends -5/+5
For “dryclean only”
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3
fabrics: x -7/+3
Hand wash, line dry Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3
or flat dry Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Length x Width (max. %)
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
WASHING/ care Self-staining: 4.5
DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in appearance
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes

Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 lead content based on the
(Mod.) weight of the dried paint or
coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. Only if supplier indicated
EN12472 micrograms per square that the item is “nickel-
(report results with centimeter per week free”.
and without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special
colors)

For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on
clothing), add the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)
Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PU 100 ppm All Colors

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 92


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

BRANDED & CO-BRANDED


DENIM APPAREL (#005A)
Page 1 of 3

(All tests are to be done after the final wash treatment)


Note: For “before-wash” required tests, see “Textile Production Testing”, pages 20-21

FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends-: +/- 3%
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 (See “Performance
Specifications-
Flammability for details)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Washable fabrics
WASHING (as per care instructions) -3/+3 x -3/+3 All washes, one color
only.
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Dryclean fabrics
DRYCLEANING -2/+2 x -2/+2 All washes, one color
only
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 All washes, one color
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 only
No visual change in
appearance
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum: All washes, all colors
LAUNDERING / Hand washables: 1A Color change: 4 (as applicable)
DRYCLEANING Machine washables: 2A Color staining: 3
Warm:49C Cold: 40C Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 Washable fabrics;
CHLORINE BLEACH All washes, all colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 Washable fabrics; all
CHLORINE BLEACH washes, all colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum: All washes, all colors
CROCKING Dry: 3; Wet 2
If dry crocking does not
meet Class 3, or wet
crocking class 2, wash 1X
according to the care label of
garment and repeat crocking
test.
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative For all “washes” - one
MTL C1007 color only.

If positive, proceed with 75 ppm


JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 4.5-7 After final wash
treatments; all
“colors/washes”

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 93


Performance & Testing Procedures June 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
Page 2 of 3
GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO As per care instructions Length x Width (max %)
HOME LAUNDERING/ Laundering: 3 cycles Washing: -3/+3 x -3/+3
DRYCLEANING Dryclean: 1cycle Dryclean: -2/+2 x -2/+2
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Dry: 3; Wet: 2 All washes, all colors
CROCKING Remark: If dry crocking does
not meet Class 3, or wet
crocking class 2, wash
garment 1X according to the
care label of garment and
repeat crocking test.
If the crocking improves to a
satisfactory rating, the fabric
can be accepted, provided
that the care instruction is
modified to include “wash
before wearing” (before all
other instructions).
APPEARANCE AFTER As per care instructions Color change: 4
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING Laundering: 3 cycles No visible staining
Dryclean: 1cycle Appearance satisfactory
FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Compliance to regulation;
Verification of label
CARE LABEL 16 CFR 423 Compliance to regulation;
Verification of label

For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes

Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried paint
or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 these limits (ppm) for
Barium: 1000 soluble migrated
Cadmium: 75 element
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than Only if supplier
EN12472 0.5. micrograms per square indicated that the
(report results with and centimeter per week item is “nickel-free”.
without coating) (Nickel is possible in
coatings or special
colors)

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Page 2 of 3

For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on
clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PU 100 ppm All Colors

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 95


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BRANDED & CO-BRANDED


INTIMATES (#006A)
(Including Bras, Camisoles, Panties)

Page 1 of 2

FABRIC TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTMD276/629 Blends: +/- 3%

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only


(see “Performance
Specifications - Flammability
for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
WASHING (as per care Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: All colors
instructions) Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Washable fabrics;
For “dryclean only” Rayon/blends -5/+5 Dryclean only (hand wash)
fabrics: Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle:
Hand wash, line dry or -7/+3 x -7/+3
flat dry Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -
10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x
-3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven: One color only
DRYCLEANING Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: All colors
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING care Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
(3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance

COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49 C - warm

COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; All colors


BLEACH Color change: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics; all colors
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4

FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only


MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), wool/wool All colors
blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8

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Page 2 of 2

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3
Knits:
Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3
Rayon/blends -5/+5
Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -
7/+3 x -7/+3
Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3
Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -
AATCC 158, 1 cycle 3/+3
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ AATCC 150/158, as per Color change: 4
DRYCLEANING care Self-staining: 4.5
(3 cycles/ 1 cycle) No visual change in appearance
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried paint
or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. Only if supplier indicated
EN12472 micrograms per square that the item is “nickel-
(report results with and centimeter per week free”.
without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special colors)

For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add
the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)
Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PU 100 ppm All Colors

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 97


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BRANDED & CO-BRANDED

SWEATERS (#009A)
Page 1 of 2
FABRIC TESTING
(Performed after final factory garment wash)

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber: No tolerance One color only
ASTM D276/629 Blends: +/- 3%

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only


(See “Performance
Specifications-
Flammability for details)
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) All colors
WASHING (as per care instructions) Rayon/blends: -5/+5
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Washable fabrics;
For “dryclean only” fabrics: Dryclean only (hand
Hand wash, line dry or flat Others -5/+3 wash)
dry
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (Max. %) All colors
DRYCLEANING -5/+2 x -5/+2 Dryclean fabrics
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per care Color change: 4 Additional evaluation of
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5 sample(s) tested for
No visual change in dimensional stability.
appearance

COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Minimum All colors
LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING 1A - hand wash Color change: 4 (as applicable)
2A - machine wash Color staining: 3.5
40C - cold Self-staining: 4.5
49C - warm
COLORFASTNESS TO NON- AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS-001 Minimum Washable fabrics: All
CHLORINE BLEACH Color change: 4 colors
FORMALDEHYDE Spot Test Negative One color only
MTL C1007
If positive, proceed with 75 ppm
JIS L1041
pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), All colors
Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7
Others: 6-8

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 98


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Page 2 of 2

GARMENT TESTING
Required test Test Method Required standard Notes
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO AATCC 150, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
WASHING/DRYCLEANING (as per care instructions) Rayon/blends: -5/+5
Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3
AATCC 158, 1 cycle Others: -5/+3
-5/+2 x -5/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158, as per care Color change: 4
WASHING/ DRYCLEANING (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) Self-staining: 4.5
No visual change in
appearance
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3%
LAUNDERING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation All seams, stress points,
pockets (decorative/
functional)
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content claims

For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on
(Mod.) the weight of the dried
paint or coating film
Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these
ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 limits (ppm) for soluble
Barium: 1000 migrated element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than Only if supplier
EN12472 0.5. micrograms per square indicated that the item
(report results with and centimeter per week is “nickel-free”.
without coating)
(Nickel is possible in
coatings or special
colors)

For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add
the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Required Test Test Method Required Standard Notes

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PVC 30 ppm All Colors


(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

Lead Content EPA 3051 (Modified) PU 100 ppm All Colors

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product 99


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Infant/Toddler/Children Requirements and Testing


Safety First .................................................................................................................................................. 2
Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children ...................................................................................................... 3
Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children (cont’d).................................................................................. 3
Flammability ............................................................................................................................................................................. 3
Lead content.............................................................................................................................................................................. 3
Nickel........................................................................................................................................................................................ 3
Azo dyes ................................................................................................................................................................................... 4
Formaldehyde: .......................................................................................................................................................................... 4
Phthalates: (in PVC) ................................................................................................................................................................. 4
Stuffing materials...................................................................................................................................................................... 4
Colorfastness (general) ............................................................................................................................................................. 4
Colorfastness to Saliva.............................................................................................................................................................. 4
Sharp edges, sharp points.......................................................................................................................................................... 5
Small Parts ................................................................................................................................................................................ 5
Stuffed Toy and Rattle Requirements....................................................................................................................................... 6
Test Request Form ..................................................................................................................................... 8
Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Trim ..................................................................................... 8
Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Fabric ................................................................................... 9
Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Garment ............................................................................. 10
Trim Testing.............................................................................................................................................. 11
Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ...................................................................................................................................... 11
Trim Testing Protocols ........................................................................................................................................................... 12
Fabric Testing ........................................................................................................................................... 20
Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ...................................................................................................................................... 20
Fabric Testing Protocol - Development .................................................................................................................................. 21
Fabric Testing Protocol - Production...................................................................................................................................... 24
Garment Testing ....................................................................................................................................... 29
Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ...................................................................................................................................... 29
Garment Testing Protocol ....................................................................................................................................................... 30
Construction and Manufacturing Requirements .................................................................................. 34
Zippers .................................................................................................................................................................................... 34
Appliqués, Decorations, etc. ................................................................................................................................................... 35
Snap Control ........................................................................................................................................................................... 35
Buttons (functional and non-functional)................................................................................................................................. 36
Hasps and Sliders.................................................................................................................................................................... 36
Factory Requirements (Small Parts) ....................................................................................................................................... 37
Loops and Hangers ................................................................................................................................................................. 38
Drawstring Requirements ....................................................................................................................................................... 38
Neck Stretch............................................................................................................................................................................ 38
Sewing Needle Control........................................................................................................................................................... 39
Metal Pins, Wires, and Staples Control .................................................................................................................................. 40
Sewing Thread ........................................................................................................................................................................ 40
Flame Retardant Finishes on Fabrics ...................................................................................................................................... 40
Stone Washing ........................................................................................................................................................................ 40
Appendix
A……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………41

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Safety First
The safety of children
is our #1 Priority!

In addition to the construction and manufacturing requirements listed, reasonable judgment and care
must be exercised by the garment manufacturers to avoid any latent hazard. Ann Taylor must be
notified if, in the opinion of the manufacturer, the design of the garment cannot be executed without
creating a potential hazard.

The tests and requirements cited were developed by the following government offices and industry
associations:
Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
Federal Trade Commission (FTC)
American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM)
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
The International Organization for Standardization (ISO)
German Institute for Standardization (DIN)

Note:
Individual states may have additional requirements.

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children (cont’d)

Flammability
All fabric must meet the normal flammability standards with the added requirement.

Requirement: 16 CFR 1610, Class 1

Flame Retardant finishes may not be applied to any garment without written approval from NY Production
and NY Director of Fabric and Testing.

Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the responsibility of New
York design and Production to assure that none of the garments could be “classified as sleepwear” (even
though they are not intended to be). See details in Appendix A.

Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be
classified as “sleepwear”.

Lead Content
16 CFR 1303
Requirement: Less than 0.06% (600 ppm), based on the total weight of the dried paint or coating film.

Required for all painted, coated, and printed surfaces, including decals

Nickel
Metal accessories must be “Nickel-free” even if the item does not come in contact with the skin (nickel
usually triggers the needle detectors, a mandatory process for these garment sizes).

“Nickel free” requirement:


Transfer to the skin measurement of <0.5 micrograms per square centimeter per week

Exception: Small metal items (i.e. snaps, small buttons, etc.) with a low amount of nickel may pass
through the needle detector without an alarm. If the garment manufacturer confirms that an item does
not trigger the alarm then such nickel containing items can be used provided that they do not come in
prolonged contact with the skin.

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Azo dyes
All fabrics, trims and accessories must be free of the AZO dyes (including Blue colourant #611-070-00-2)
and pigments that are banned (see Appendix B). This also applies to leather and other components.
(testing upon request only)

Formaldehyde
JIS L-1041

Requirement: Less than 20 ppm (direct or indirect contact with skin)

Phthalates: (in PVC)


1. Dibutyl phthalate (DBP)
2. Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP)
3. Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP)
4. Di-n-ocyl phthalate (DNOP)
5. Di-iso-decyl-phthalate (DIDP)
6. Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP)

Requirement: Less than 1000 ppm (0.1% by weight) of the above substances.

Stuffing Materials

ASTM F963
Requirement: Material must be disclosed. All filling material must be new and free of contaminants such
as splinters, metal chips etc.

Colorfastness
The supplier must take every possible step to assure that Ann Taylor’s colorfastness requirements are met.
Such steps include, but are not limited to, the selection of the best dyestuffs available, extra rinsing, dye
fixation, etc.
Note: All cotton fabrics must be dyed with reactive or vat dyes. Indigo dyes can be used where
applicable. Sulfur or direct dyes are not accepted, unless specifically requested by Ann Taylor for special
effects.

Colorfastness to Saliva
LMBG 82.10 Section 35 (German Industrial Norm)
Requirement: Solution #1 only. Minimum class 4.5 per AATCC Gray Scale.

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Sharp Edges and Sharp Points


ASTM F963
All parts that are hard or stiff, such as metal parts, buttons, appliqués, velcro-type fasteners, labels, etc.
must not have any sharp edges and points. All corners must be rounded.

No needles or parts of needles can be left in any garment. No pins allowed in packaging. Must use needle
detector and needle control system in factory. (See Construction and Manufacturing Requirements,
“Sewing Needle Control”)

Small Parts

• “Small parts” on toys or other articles (i.e. garments) pose choking, aspiration, and ingestion hazards to
young children. Some examples include, but are not limited to, functional and non-functional buttons, snaps,
and decorative items.

• It is necessary to ensure that all buttons, snaps, and decorative items (i.e. small parts) are attached to the
garments securely and appropriately so that they will withstand the reasonable use and abuse of the children
and infants who wear them.

• Articles must undergo use and abuse tests to simulate the “normal use and reasonable foreseeable damage
and abuse” which articles may undergo under ordinary conditions.

Removal of small parts “use and abuse” testing (age group up to 8 years)

ASTM F963/16 CFR 1500.50-53

Required for any part that:


• fits entirely within the prescribed “small parts cylinder” (see drawing)
- thus a “substantial product hazard”.

• a child can grasp with the thumb and forefinger or the teeth,
Examples: appliqués, bows, poms, buckles, buttons, snaps, zipper pulls, etc.

Note: Yarns and textile fabric are exempt from requirement; however, these items must be reviewed
on an individual basis, as exempt items can also be considered “substantial product hazards”.

See “Garment Testing Protocol”

• Any piece that detaches from the article due to these “use and abuse” testing procedures must then be
evaluated to determine if it complies with the small parts standard (16 CFR 1501). If the detached article fits
into the small parts cylinder, it can be considered a “substantial product hazard”.

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Stuffed Toy and Rattle


Rattle Requirement:
• 16 CFR. Part 1510 - pertaining to the penetrability of a rattle into the mouth and throat.

Small Parts, Sharp Points, and Sharp Edges


• 16 C.F.R. Part 1501 - Small parts standards
• 16 C.F.R. Part 1500.48 - Sharp point standards
• 16 C.F.R. Part 1500.49 - Sharp edges standard
• 16 C.F.R. Part 1500.50-53 – Use and abuse testing

No small parts, sharp points, or sharp edges before or after “use and abuse” testing.

Lead Paint:

16 CFR 1303
Requirement: Less than 0.06% (600 ppm), based on the total weight of the dried paint or coating film.

Additional Heavy Metals


ASTM F963
Requirements: Must not exceed the following limits for soluble migrated element:

Antimony 60 ppm
Arsenic 25 ppm
Barium 1000 ppm
Cadmium 75 ppm
Chromium 60 ppm
Lead 90 ppm
Mercury 60 ppm
Selenium 500 ppm

Phthalates: (if toy contains PVC)

Requirements: Less than 1000 ppm (0.1% by weight) of the following substances:

1. DINP (di-iso-nonyl phthalate)


2. DEHP (di (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate)
3. DNOP (di-n-octyl phthalate)
4. DIDP (di-iso-decyl phthalate)
5. BBP (butylbenzyl phthalate)
6. DBP (dibutyl phthalate)

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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Azo Dyes

All items must be free of the AZO dyes and pigments that are banned (see Appendix B).

Flammability

16 CFR Part 1500.3 and 1500.44 (as for “rigid or pliable solids”).

Pennsylvania Stuffed Toys Regulation:


(Title 34, Chapter 47, Section 47.317); ASTM F963

Must not contain the following:


• Previously-used material
• Less than 1% oil or grease
• Dirt and/or other foreign matter >1% by weight
• Less than 0.002% lead
• Less than 0.0002% arsenic
• Less than 5% ammonia
• Less than 1% urea
• Stones or other hard materials having jagged or sharp edges
• Material with electrostatic charge with adherence characteristics
• Filler which surface burns at a rate <3 seconds per 12 square inches.

Note: Each toy must also be evaluated on an individual basis for additional tests that might be necessary.
Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing when needed.

Polybags for Toys


(ASTM F963-96a)

Requirement: Actual thickness shall not be less than 0.00125 in. (0.03175 mm).

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form - Trim


Service: □ Regular □ Priority (2 working days on selective items)
Contact Information
Division
Department Number
Vendor/Supplier
Vendor Code Number
Requestor Name:
Telephone
Fax:
E-mail:
AT Office/Agent Contact

Trim Information
Season
Trim Supplier
Garment Facility/Factory
Supplier Trim Number
P.O. Number
Detailed Description
Color/Color Combination
Internally Dyed/Dyed to match
Coating/Paint
Size
Material (i.e. melamine, polyester, metal composition, etc.)
Nickel content (i.e. “nickel-free”)

Sample Status Trim Tests Requested


□ Development □ Non-Metallic □ Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc. □ Other
□ Production □ Metallic □ Rubber and soft plastic patches □ Additional color or size
□ Zippers □ Down and Feather □ Retest

Required Additional Information


Retest of report #
Property(ies) to be retested
Comments/special instructions

Billing Information
Company Contact
Address Telephone
Fax

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to
incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Rush service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab
receipt at 40% surcharge.

Applicant’s Test Order Number: ______________________

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


8 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form - Fabric


Service: □ Regular (3 days) □ Priority (2 working days on selective items)
Contact Information
Division
Department Number
Vendor/Supplier
Vendor Code Number
Requestor Name:
Telephone
Fax:
E-mail:
AT Office/Agent Contact

Fabric Information
Season
Fabric Supplier
RMID #/Fabric Quality Number
P.O. Number
Type of Fabric (woven/knit)
Construction (i.e. twill, jersey, pique, etc)
Fiber Content
Yarn Dye/Piece Dye
Fabric Finish (ie coated, washed, water repellent, etc)
Resin-treated?
Color(s)
Anticipated Care Instructions:

Sample Status Fabric Tests Requested


□ Development □ Development Package □ Other
□ Production □ Production Package □ Retest
□ Additional Color

Required Additional Information


Previous full test report #
Retest of report #
Property(ies) to be retested
Comments/special instructions
Billing Information
Company Contact
Address Telephone
Fax
Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required
to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Rush service is available upon request after 48 hours of
lab receipt at 40% surcharge.

Applicant’s Test Order Number: ____________________

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


9 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form - Garment


Service: □ Regular (3 days) □ Priority (2 working days on selective items)
Contact Information
Division
Department Number
Vendor/Supplier
Vendor Code Number
Requestor Name:
Telephone
Fax:
E-mail:
AT Office/Agent Contact

Garment Information
Season
Garment Facility (factory)
Style number (of garment actually sent in for testing)
Reference Style numbers (if applicable)
P.O. Number
Garment Description
Fiber Content
Color/Color Combination
Garment Finish (i.e. garment wash, etc.)
Care Instructions:

Sample Status Garment Tests Requested


□ Development □ Garment Test Package (Infant/Toddler/Children) □ Other
□ Production □ Retest

Required Additional Information


Previous full test report #’s
(i.e. fabric/trim)
Retest of report # (if applicable)
Property(ies) to be retested
Comments/special instructions

Billing Information
Company Contact
Address Telephone
Fax

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required
to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process.
Development testing will be charged back to your department. Rush service is available upon request after 48 hours of
lab receipt at 40% surcharge.

Applicant’s Test Order Number: ____________________

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


10 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

TRIM TESTING

Responsibility of Garment Suppliers


1. The garment supplier is responsible for all trims to be tested according to the Ann Taylor
requirements and for the cost of such tests.
2. Trim testing is required to be performed each season, at Production stage only. Development
testing may still be performed upon request on an exception basis.

3. The factory must send representative trims (prior to garment production) to an Ann Taylor
designated commercial laboratory (see section VI-D of Apparel Manual for complete listing).
• All the required trim information must be given to the laboratory (See Ann Taylor Test
Request Form--Trim).
• Make sure to mark which Ann Taylor division this trim is for and a contact, as the lab
will send the test reports directly to the regional production office.
• Additional trims must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab).

4. Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and/or garment
stage, it is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure all applicable trims would comply with the
normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger
form before proceeding with production.

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

PRODUCTION
Trim Testing Protocols

Non-metallic Trim (ITC Spec. #812)


Examples: buttons, ball stoppers, etc. (excluding: metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather)

Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces)


Page 1 of 2

Required Test Test Method Requirement Notes


Flammability 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only (see “Responsibility
(fabric trims) of Garment Supplier” – Trim Testing
for details)
DURABILITY TO AATCC 61-3A / No breaking, cracking, chipping Test any one color,
IMPACT DURING AATCC 86 or dulling of the surface three representative sizes/shapes
LAUNDERING / (i.e. large, medium, small, circle,
DRYCLEANING square, heart, etc.)

If failures, may need to test additional


sizes/shapes.

Does not have to be performed if the


colorfastness tests under “dyed to
match” are performed.
STEAM PRESS Coteco Staining min. 4-5 Test any one color, at least three
No visual change in appearance representative sizes/shapes
(i.e. large, medium, small)

If dyed to match (instead of internal dyed)


add the following tests (test all colors, one size only):
COLOR FASTNESS TO AATCC 61, IIA Color change: min. 4 Test all colors, at least three
WASHING Staining: min. 4 representative sizes/shapes
(i.e. large, medium, small)
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors, at least three
DRYCLEANING Staining: min. 4 representative sizes
(i.e. large, medium, small)
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 116 Dry: min. 4.5 Test all colors, any one size
CROCKING Wet: min. 4
(if applicable for button
having a flat surface)

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Page 2 of 2

Non-metallic Trim (excluding metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather)


If coated or painted add the following tests

Required Test Test Method Requirement Notes

LEAD CONTENT 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 All colors
ASTM 1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on the
(mod.) weight of the dried paint or
coating film
HEAVY METALS EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these limits
Arsenic: 25 (ppm) for soluble migrated
Barium: 1000 element
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500
NICKEL TEST EN 1811; EN12472 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. Only if supplier indicated that the
(report results with micrograms per square item is “nickel-free”.
and without centimeter per week (Nickel is possible in coatings or
coating) special colors)

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)

Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 30 ppm All Colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)

Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All Colors

If button, add the following tests


CENTER
STRENGTH
a) Shank / 2 & 4 S 4162 Section 4.0 Up to 16 ligne: 16 lbf Test all shapes/sizes.
holes plastic & (modified) Up to 25 ligne: 20 lbf One color only.
wooden buttons Larger than 25ligne: 30 lbf

b) Shell buttons
15 lbf
c) Horn buttons
18 lbf

If Snap, add the following tests

SNAP ACTION ASTM D4846 Min: 2 lbs Test all sizes/shapes. One color
BV-S 1045 Max: 5 lbs only.

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Metal Trim (ITC Spec. #813)


Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces)
Page 1 of 1

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes

CORROSION ASTM B117 (mod) No visual change in Test any one size
RESISTANCE 24 hours in 1% Salt appearance All colors and finishes
Spray (Fog) No signs of staining,
corrosion, oxidation or
discoloration.

NICKEL TEST EN 1811, EN 12472 Transfer to skin less Only if supplier indicated that the
Report results with than 0.5. micrograms item is “nickel-free”.
and without coating per square centimeter
per week
HEAVY METALS EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Must not exceed these limits (ppm)
Arsenic: 25 for soluble migrated element
Barium: 1000
Cadmium: 75
Chromium: 60
Lead: 90
Mercury: 60
Selenium: 500

If coated or painted, add the following tests


LEAD CONTENT 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 (600 ppm) lead
(mod.) content based on the
weight of the dried
paint or coating film
DURABILITY TO AATCC 150 No cracking, chipping Test any one color,
IMPACT DURING 5X Home Laundering or dulling of the three representative sizes
LAUNDERING / (machine wash warm, surface (i.e. large, medium, small)
DRYCLEANING tumble dry medium)

AATCC158 (3X
Commercial Dryclean

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)
Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (Modified) 30 ppm All Colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)
Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All Colors

If Snap, add the following test


SNAP ACTION BV S-1045/ Min: 2 lbs Test all sizes. One color only.
ASTM D4846 Max: 5 lbs

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14 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Zippers (ITC Spec. #814)


Use: A = jeans, B= bottoms, C= dresses/tops, D= outerwear (for pockets “C” can be used)
Minimum sample requirement: 120 (at least 6” in length)
Page 1 of 2

Requirement (lbf)
Required test Test Method Use Use Use Use Notes
A B C D

CROSSWISE CHAIN ASTM D2061 80 60 50 75


STRENGTH (14.1)
TOP STOP HOLDING ASTM D2061 20 16 16 20
(22.2)
BOTTOM STOP ASTM D2061 16 12 12 20 Non separating zipper only.
HOLDING (22.5) Lower standards are acceptable if
(STRINGER zipper bottom is secured by
SEPARATION) appropriate sewing in garment.
FIXED RETAINER ASTM D2061 NA NA 16 20 Separating zippers only.
PULL OFF (30.2)
SEPARABLE PIN ASTM D2061 NA NA 16 20 Separating zippers only.
PULL OFF (30.1)
HOLDING ASTM D2061 12 6 4 7 Only if locking slider.
STRENGTH OF (82) Report any failure
SLIDER LOCK Examine all components after
testing and report any damage (i.e.
elements, etc.).
COLOR FASTNESS AATCC 61 Color change: min. 4 Slider and stringer
TO WASHING IIA Staining: min. 4 Test each color.
Appearance: No visual
change.
COLORFASTNESS AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Slider and stringer
TO DRYCLEANING Staining: min. 4 Test each color.
Appearance: No visual
change.
COLORFASTNESS ASTM D2054 Dry: min. 4.5 Test each color.
TO CROCKING AATCC 116 Wet: min. 4 Tape only.
RESISTANCE TO Staining min. 4-5 Complete zipper
STEAM PRESS Coteco Color change: 4 Test each color.
No visual change in
appearance.
OPERA0BILITY ASTM D2062 < 1.5 lb Test 3 different zippers

ZIPPER TORQUE 16 CFR 1500 4 in-lb Test each color

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Zippers (cont’d) Page 2 of 2

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes


NICKEL TEST EN 1811, EN 12472 Transfer to skin less than Nickel is possible in coatings or
Report results with 0.5. micrograms per special colors
and without coating square centimeter per
week.

If used for swimwear


COLORFASTNESS AATCC 106 Color change: min. 4 Stringer and slider
AND APPEARANCE (modify if necessary) Staining: min. 4 Test each color.
AFTER EXPOSURE Appearance: No visual
TO SEA WATER. change
COLORFASTNESS AATCC 162 Color change: min. 4 Stringer and slider
AND APPEARANCE (Modified, no multi- Appearance: No visual Test each color.
AFTER EXPOSURE fiber swatch used) change
TO CHLORINATED
POOL WATER

If painted or coated
Add the following tests
LEAD CONTENT 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% All colors
ASTM E1613/E1645 (600 ppm) lead content
(mod.) based on the weight of the
dried paint or coating
film
HEAVY METALS ASTM F963 Maximums If metal, all with or without
See “Accessories made of surface coating. If coated, test
metal” coating in each color.

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)
Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 30 ppm All colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)
Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All colors

If made of metal
HEAVY METALS EN 71 Part III See above See above

CORROSION ASTM B117 No visual change in Test any one size


RESISTANCE G85 (mod) appearance All colors and finishes
24 hrs in 1% salt spray No signs of staining,
(fog) corrosion, oxidation or
discoloration.

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16 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (ITC Spec. #815)


Made of fibers, including Velcro, dyed elastic, leather patches, etc.

Minimum sample requirement: 1 yard (if in fabric form of at least 40” in width) OR 4 yards (taping)

Page 1 of 2

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 One color only (see


(fabric trims) “Responsibility of Garment
Supplier” - Trim Testing for
details)
COLORFASTNESS AATCC 61, IIA Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
TO WASHING Staining: min. 4
Self staining: min. 4.5

COLORFASTNESS AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors


TO DRYCLEANING Staining: min. 4
Self staining: min. 4.5

COLORFASTNESS AATCC 107 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors


TO WATER Staining: min. 4
Self staining: min. 4.5
COLORFASTNESS AATCC 8/116 Dry: min. 4 Test all colors
TO CROCKING Wet: min. 3 Report which test procedure was
used

If item is a tape, ribbon, elastic, etc. add the following tests

DIMENSIONAL AATCC 135 Report actual shrinkage. Test one color only
STABILITY TO Acceptance depends on Three launderings
LAUNDERING compatibility with fabric in
specific garment
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 158 Report actual shrinkage. Test one color only
STABILITY TO Acceptance depends on One dryclean only
DRYCLEANING compatibility with fabric in
specific garment.

If used on inside of garment add the following test:

COLOR FASTNESS AATCC 15 Color change: min. 3.5


TO PERSPIRATION Staining: min. 4 Example: neck tape, etc.
Test all colors

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (cont’d)


(made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, etc.)
Page 2 of 2

If used in swimwear add the following tests:

Required test Test method Requirement Notes


COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 106 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
SEA WATER Staining: min. 4
Self staining: min. 4.5

COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 162 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors


CHLORINATED (modified, no
POOL WATER multi-fiber
swatch used)

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)
Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 30 ppm All colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)
Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All colors

Down and Feather Testing (ITC Spec. #816)


Minimum sample requirement: 300 grams of down and one garment or mock-up.

Required Test Test Method Requirement Notes


DOWNPROOFNESS IDFB, Method Minimum 4 Fabric against actual filling
5530 (tumbling One color only
method)
FEATHER/DOWN IDFB Method 3 No more than: For labeling, “USA Standards—
COMPOSITION Fed Standard 10% down fiber Down and Feather Products
148a 10% feather fibers Labeling Guidelines”
2% land fowl feathers
2% damaged feathers
2% residue
FILL POWER IDFB 10, IDFB Minimum
32 (tumble dry 550 cubic inches/oz
method)
OXYGEN NUMBER IDFB 21 General: Less than 10
Hypoallergenic/Super Clean
Claim: <5
TURBIDITY IDFB 22 Minimum
General: 300 mm
Hypoallergenic/Super Clean
Claim: 500 mm

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Rubber & Soft Plastic Patches (ITC Spec. #817)


Minimum sample requirement: 40 pieces
Page 1 of 1

Required test Test number Required Standard Notes

COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61 IIA Color change: min. 4 All colors


WASHING Staining: min. 4 Add appearance to evaluation
No brittleness, cracking or
chipping
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Not for rubber (known to fail, use
DRYCLEANING Staining: min. 4 “do not dry clean” label)
No brittleness, cracking or All colors
chipping. Add appearance to evaluation
o
AGEING UNDER 48 hrs under50 C No discoloration, staining, Any one color
HOT/HUMID (120oF) and 95% RH brittleness, cracking or
CONDITIONS chipping
AGEING UNDER 48 hrs under 0oC No brittleness, cracking or Any one color
COLD CONDITIONS (32oF) chipping Note: test sample must be
evaluated immediately, while still
cold.
PHTHALATES (IN Solvent extraction <1000 ppm of listed PVC
PVC) with LC-MS or GC- substances see “Standards” Test all colors
MS Analysis
CADMIUM CONTENT EN 1122 <0.01% by weight PVC, pigment coated/painted
plastic

If used for swimwear add the following tests:

COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 106 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors


SEA WATER Staining: min. 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 162 Color change: min. 4 Test all colors
CHLORINATED POOL
WATER

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments
on clothing)
Lead in PVC
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 30 ppm All colors
(San Francisco Superior Court, 317256,
CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)
Lead in PU
LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All colors

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19 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Fabric Testing
Responsibility of Suppliers
1. The fabric supplier is responsible for testing all fabrics according to the Ann Taylor requirements and for
the cost of such tests.

2. Fabric tests must be done at development stage and on the first production dye lot of each fabric, each
season. See testing protocols for development and production fabric. Ann Taylor will specify if any
additional tests must be done depending on the fabric.

3. The tests must be done by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory (see section VI-D in Apparel
Manual for complete listing). All required fabric information must be given to the laboratory (see Ann Taylor
Test Request Form - Fabric).

4. In addition, the fabric supplier must test each dye lot internally to assure that all fabrics meet the
requirements. These test reports do not have to be submitted to Ann Taylor but the supplier must keep them
for review by Ann Taylor personnel if any problems arise.

5. “Yarn” testing for sweaters should be done in knitted fabric form.

6. All denim testing must be done after the final wash treatment. Testing is not required on non-wash (i.e.
rigid) denim.

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

DEVELOPMENT
Fabric Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #001)
(For all fabrics and fabrics used as trim)
Sample required: 2.5 yards
Page 1 of 3

Required Test Test Method Requirement Notes


FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only

FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 All colors

FORMALDEHYDE JIS L1041 <20 ppm One color only

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) One color only
TO WASHING (as per care instructions)
Cold: 80F (27C) Wovens: Washable fabrics;
Warm: 105F (40C) General: -3%x-3%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Fabrics where “dry clean
Stretch w/spandex: -4%x-4%(CVC),
-3%x-3%(CVS)
only” is recommended
For “dry clean only” Corduroy, velvet, terry, flannel:
fabrics: Hand wash, line -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-4%(CVS)
dry or flat dry. Dobby, jacquard, basket, pique:
-6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS)
wool/silk
-4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-3%(CVS)
Growth: +1% maximum

Knits:
General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -4%x-4%(CVS)
Stretch w/spandex: -6%x-5%(CVC),
-5%x-4%(CVS)
Fleece, Sherpa, french terry:
-6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS)
Rib/waffle/pique:
-6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS)
Jersey, interlock, pointelle: -6%x -5%(CVC),
-5%x-5%(CVS)
Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -7%x-7%(CVS)
Wool (washable): -5%x-5%
Silk (washable): -6%x-6%
Growth: +3% maximum
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) One color only
TO DRYCLEANING Wovens: Dry clean fabrics
-2.0%x-2.0%
Growth: No growth allowed

Knits:
-3.0% x -3.0%
Growth: No growth allowed
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per No obvious defects/observations
WASHING/DRYCLEANING care (3 cycles/1cycle) affecting the end product
performance/appearance, color
change/staining. Satisfactory
performance of the components and
trims. List all observations.

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21 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Page 2 of 3

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes


TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Maximum One color only
LAUNDERING Method 1, Woven: 3%
Option 2 Knit: 5%
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 Length x Width (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
General Fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
<2.4 oz/sq yard: 15
2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 25
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 30
> 6.0 oz/sq yard: 40
Pocketing: 20 lbs
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 Length x Width (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
General Fabrics:
Fabric Weight:
<2.4 oz/sq yard: 1.5
2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 3.0
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 4.0
Lining and pocketing fabrics:
Fabric Weight
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 1.5
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 2.5
SEAM SLIPPAGE/ ASTM D1683 Length x Width (min. lbs) Wovens: One color only
STRENGTH (6 mm slippage Fabric Weight:
and strength) <2.4 oz/sq yard: 10
2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 15
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20
Prototype seam > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 25
PILLING ASTM D3512 Minimum One color only
Random Tumble Wovens & knits:
Knits: 30 minutes All others: 3.5
Wovens: 1 hour Brushed/peached: 3
Polyester/nylon: 3
Animal Fibers: BS
EN ISO 12945 Animal Fibers:
Part 1 (4 hours) 3.5
(Specialty animal
fibers: 2 hours)
PILE RETENTION ASTM D4685 Option A: Corduroy, velvet, velour
(use CS-10 Face – Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles One color only
Abradant) Back – Min Class 4.0 @ 100 cycles
Option A
Fabric >7.0 oz/sq Option B:
yard: 500g head Face – Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles
weight Back – Min Class 4.0 @ 50 Cycles
Option B
Fabric <7.0 oz/sq
yard 250g
headweight
STRETCH AND ASTM D3107 - In stretch direction only, for : Stretch only
RECOVERY Wovens Knit: One color only
ASTM D2594 - For samples with elastic content
Knits > 10% (60 sec.)
Requirements for Recovery: 85%
Requirements for Growth: 5%
Use “Growth” For samples with elastic content

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

for pass/fail < 10% (1hr.)


determination Requirements for recovery: 70%
Requirements for growth: 7%
Woven:
For samples with elastic content
> 10% (30 sec.)
Requirements for recovery: 85%
Requirements for growth: 5%
For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.)
Requirements for recovery: 70%
Requirements for growth: 7%
BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Knits: One color only
Fabric weight:
<3.0 oz/sq yard: 30
>3.0 oz/sq yard: 45
Highly stretch fabric: 40
Lace/mesh: 20
RAIN TEST AATCC 35 After coating: Rainwear only. One color
(2 ft, 2 min) Max. 1 gm of water penetration Test before and after
Before coating: coating, since the water-
> 1 gram of water penetration resistance must be a direct
result of the coating, and
not any prior finish (i.e.
cire, etc.)

Page 3 of 3

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

PRODUCTION

Fabric Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #002)


(For all fabrics and fabrics used as trim)
Sample requirement: 4 yards Page 1 of 5

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes


PHYSICAL
CHARACTERISTICS
FABRIC WEIGHT ASTM D3776 +/- 5% One color only
(oz/sq yard)
FABRIC COUNT ASTM D3775/D3887 +/- 5% One color only

FIBER CONTENT AATCC 20/20A Single Fiber : No tolerance One color only
Blends: +/- 3%
YARN SIZE ASTM D1059 +/- 10% Non-stretch upon request
(one color only)
PERFORMANCE
FORMALDEHYDE JIS L1041 <20 ppm One color only

pH AATCC 81 White (bleached), wool/wool All colors


blends/leather/indigo: 4.5-7 (after final wash treatment)
Others: 6-8
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610 Class 1 All colors

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %) Woven - one color only
TO WASHING (as per care instructions) Wovens: General: -3%x- Knits - all colors
3%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS)
Cold: 80F (27C) Stretch w/spandex: -4%x- Washable fabrics;
4%(CVC),
Warm: 105F (40C) -3%x-3%(CVS)
Fabrics where “dry clean
Corduroy, velvet, terry, flannel: only” is recommended
For “dry clean only” -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-4%(CVS)
fabrics: Dobby, jacquard, basket, pique:
Hand wash, line dry or flat -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS)
dry Wool/silk
-4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-3%(CVS)
Growth: +1% maximum

Knits:
General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -4%x-
4%(CVS)
Stretch w/spandex: -6%x-
5%(CVC),
-5%x-4%(CVS)
Fleece, sherpa, french terry:
-6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x-
5%(CVS)
Rib,waffle, pique:
-6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS)
Jersey, interlock, pointelle: -
6%x-5%(CVC),
-5%x-5%(CVS)
Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


24 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL
7%x-7%(CVS)
Wool (washable): -5%x-5%
Silk (washable): -6%x-6%
Growth: +3% maximum
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x Width (max. %) Woven - one color only
TO DRYCLEANING Wovens: Knits - all colors
-2.0%x-2.0% Dryclean fabrics
Growth: No growth allowed
Knits:
-3.0%x-3.0%
Growth: No growth allowed
APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 135/158, as per No obvious
WASHING/DRYCLEANING care (3 cycles/1cycle) defects/observations
affecting the end product
performance/appearance,
color change/staining
satisfactory performance of
the components and trims.
List all observations.
DIMENSIONAL STABILITY Coteco Length x Width (max %) One color only
AFTER STEAM PRESS Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2
APPEARANCE AFTER Coteco No visual change in appearance One color only
STEAM PRESS Self-staining: 4.5
Color change: 4
TWISTING AFTER AATCC 179 Woven: 3% One color only
LAUNDERING Method 1, Option 2 Knit: 5%
TENSILE STRENGTH ASTM D5034 Length x Width (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
General fabrics:
Fabric weight:
<2.4 oz/sq yard: 15
2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 25
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 30
> 6.0 oz/sq yard: 40
Pocketing: 20 lbs
TEAR STRENGTH ASTM D1424 Length x Width (min.lbs) Wovens: one color only
General fabrics:
Fabric weight:
<2.4 oz/sq yard: 1.5
2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 3.0
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 4.0
Lining and pocketing fabrics:
Fabric weight
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 1.5
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 2.5

Page 2 of 5

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


25 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Required test Test Method Requirement Notes


SEAM SLIPPAGE/ ASTM D1683 Length x Width (min. lbs) Wovens: one color only
STRENGTH (6 mm slippage and Fabric weight:
strength) <2.4 oz/sq yard: 10
2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 15
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20
Prototype seam > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 25
PILLING ASTM D3512 Minimum One color only
Random tumble Wovens & Knits: If failure, test 2 additional
Knits: 30 minutes All others: 3.5 colors.
Wovens: 1 hour Brushed/peached: 3
Polyester/nylon: 3
Animal Fibers: BS EN ISO
12945 Part 1 (4 hours) Animal Fibers:
(Specialty animal fibers: 2 3.5
hours)
PILE RETENTION ASTM D4685 Option A: Corduroy, Velvet, Velour
(use CS-10 abradant) Face: Min class 3.0 @ 300 cycles One color only
Option A Back – Min class 4.0 @ 100
Fabric >7.0 oz/sq yard: 500g cycles
head weight
Option B Option B:
Fabric <7.0 oz/sq yard 250g Face: Min class 3.0 @ 300 cycles
headweight Back - Min class 4.0 @ 50 cycles
ADHESION TEST/FIBER BV S-1036 Fiber removal maximum Faux fur only
SHEDDING PROPENSITY 50 x 10-3 grams
STRETCH ASTM D3107 - wovens In stretch direction only, for : Stretch only
AND RECOVERY ASTM D2594 -knits Knit: One color only
For samples with elastic content
> 10% (60 sec.)
Requirements for recovery: 85%
Requirements for growth: 5%
For samples with elastic content
< 10% (1hr.)
Requirements for recovery: 70%
Requirements for growth: 7%
Woven:
For samples with elastic content
> 10% (30 sec.)
Requirements for recovery: 85%
Requirements for growth: 5%
For samples with elastic content
< 10% (1hr.)
Requirements for recovery: 70%
Requirements for growth: 7%

Page 3 of 5

Page 4 of 5

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children


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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Required test Test Method Requirements Notes


BURSTING STRENGTH ASTM D3786 Minimum (psi) Knits: One color only
Fabric weight:
<3.0 oz/sq yard: 30
>3.0 oz/sq yard: 45
Highly stretch fabric: 40
Lace/mesh: 20
RAIN TEST AATCC 35 After coating: “Rainwear” only;
(2 ft, 2 min) Maximum: 1 gm of water One color. Test before and
penetration after coating, since the
Before coating: water-resistance must be a
>1 gram of water penetration direct result of the coating,
and not any prior finish (i.e.
cire, etc.)
SPRAY TEST AATCC 22 Original: 90 (ISO 4) Only if claimed to be “water
Washed (3x) or dry clean resistant”
(1x): 70 (ISO 2) One color only
(as per care instructions)
COLORFASTNESS
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Minimum: All colors
LAUNDERING / Hand washables: 1A Color change: 4 Indigo: after the final wash
DRYCLEANING Machine washables: 2A Color staining: 3.5 treatment
Warm:49C Cold: 40C Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 All colors
NON-CHLORINE BLEACH
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC TS 001 Minimum 4 All colors
CHLORINE BLEACH
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 107 Minimum All colors (except white)
WATER Color change: 4 Indigo: after the final wash
Color staining: 3.5 treatment
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 15 Minimum All colors
PERSPIRATION Color change: 4 Indigo: after the final wash
Color staining: 3.5 treatment
Self-staining: 4.5
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 8, 116 Minimum (Wet/dry) All colors (except white)
CROCKING Light: 3.5 Indigo: after the final wash
Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 treatment
Pigment/indigo 2/3 Lab discretion on light colors
Sulfur/sueded and certain neutrals
If dry crocking does not meet
Class 3.5, or wet crocking
Class 2.0, wash 1X
according to the care label
and repeat test.
If the crocking improves to a
satisfactory rating, the fabric
can be accepted, provided
that the care instruction is
modified to include “wash
before wearing” (before all
other instructions)

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Required test Test Method Requirement Notes


COLORFASTNESS TO Section 35 LMBG 82.10 Minimum All colors (except white)
SALIVA AATCC Grey Scale: 4.5 Indigo: after the final wash
treatment
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 16; Option 3 Minimum All colors
LIGHT Silk:10 hours Light colors: 3.5 Indigo: after the final wash
Others:20 hours All others: 4 treatment
Swimwear: 40 hours Neon swim: 2.5 @ 40 hours
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 109 (1 cycle) Minimum 4 “Indigo” and “whites” only
OZONE After final wash treatment
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 23 (1 cycle) Minimum 4 “Indigo” and “whites” only
BURNT GAS FUMES After final wash treatment
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 162 Minimum color change: All colors
CHLORINATED POOL All others: 4 Swimwear only
WATER Pigment dye/prints: 3.5
Self-staining: 4
COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 106 Minimum All colors
SEAWATER Color change: 4 Swimwear only
(Pigment dyes/prints: 3.5)
Color staining: 3.5
Self-staining: 4

Note: Garment-dyed: all tests should be performed on the dyed garments after final garment wash.
Severe “garment-wash” programs: all tests should be performed after the final garment wash.

Page 5 of 5

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GARMENT TESTING
Responsibility of Garment Suppliers
1. The garment supplier is responsible for all garments to be tested according to the Ann Taylor
requirements and for the cost of such tests.
2. The factory must send a representative garment (at least 5 samples) from the beginning of
their bulk production to an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory.
• All the required garment information must be given to the laboratory (see Ann Taylor
Test Request Form--Garment)
• Additional garments must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab).
3. All tests for sweaters (including fabric) should be done after the final factory garment wash.
4. Garment dye, stone/enzyme washing:
• The garment supplier is responsible to perform all fabric tests in addition to the garment
tests (after the garments are completely finished). This does not apply to regular garment
wash.
• It is the garment manufacturer's responsibility to test all fabrics and trim for bleeding and
other problems during this process before starting garment production.
• If necessary the garment supplier must modify his washing procedure to avoid staining or
other problems.

Garment Testing
1. The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a garment together
while being cleaned 3 times (1 time if dry cleaned) according to the care label. We are looking
for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage, seam strength, or anything that would make the
garment look or feel undesirable. Pay special attention to trims, accessories and garment prints.
2. The garment construction is also reviewed at this time to ensure compliance with all
Infant/Toddler/Children safety requirements (such as drawstrings, sharp edges, sharp points,
zipper guards, etc.).
3. The garment test must be performed by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory (See
section VI-D of Apparel Manual for complete listing).
4. Garments must be tested once each season in the production stage. Testing at development stage
may also be requested on an exception basis. The testing must be done after the garment is
completely finished, including “Garment wash”, “Enzyme wash”, “Stone wash”, etc. if
applicable.
• The cost of the testing is the responsibility of the garment supplier.
• This procedure does not relieve the garment supplier of his responsibility to assure the
performance of the garments by total internal quality control throughout the production
cycle.

5. Each garment style must be tested.

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• It is not necessary to test every color combination, but the most critical color combination must be
selected for testing (i.e. combination of bright/deep colors with white or cream). Pay special
attention to contrasting trim and/or accessories.
• Additional colorway testing may be required at Ann Taylor’s request.

6. If the same garment style is made by more than one supplier, it must be tested individually from each
supplier.

7. Hats and gloves are exempt from care labeling and do not have to be tested unless specifically requested.
However if a care label is requested by NY then the item must be tested just like any other garment.

Garment Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #003)


1. The laboratory will clean the garment three times (3x) according to the care label (1X for
drycleaning). All instructions should be followed. i.e. If the care label states “low heat iron, if
necessary”, ironing at low heat setting should be performed, even if the garment does not appear
to need ironing.

2. Garment construction review and testing to ensure compliance with all Infant/Toddler/Children
safety requirements.

Required test Test Method Required standard Notes


DIMENSIONAL AATCC 135, 3 cycles Length x Width (max. %)
STABILITY TO WASHING Garment Form Wovens: Washable garments;
(as per care instructions) General: -3%x-3%(CVC), - Fabrics where “dry clean
3%x-3%(CVS) only” is recommended
Stretch w/spandex: -4%x-
Cold: 80F (27C) 4%(CVC),
Warm: 105F (40C) -3%x-3%(CVS)
Corduroy, velvet, terry,flannel:
For dry clean only fabrics: -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-
Hand wash, line dry or flat 4%(CVS)
dry Dobby, Jacquard, Basket,
Pique:
-6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-
5%(CVS)
Wool/Silk
-4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-
3%(CVS)
Growth: +1% maximum
Knits:
General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -
4%x-4%(CVS)
Stretch w/spandex: -6%x-
5%(CVC),
-5%x-4%(CVS)
Fleece, sherpa, french terry:
-6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x-
5%(CVS)
Rib, waffle, pique:
-6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-
5%(CVS)
Jersey, interlock, pointelle: -
6%x-5%(CVC),

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-5%x-5%(CVS)
Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -
7%x-7%(CVS)
Wool (washable): -5%x-5%
Silk (washable): -6%x-6%
Growth: +3% maximum
DIMENSIONAL AATCC 158, 1 cycle Length x width (max. %) Dry clean garments
STABILITY TO Garment Form Wovens:
DRYCLEANING -2/+2 x -2/+2
Knits:
-3/+2 x -3/+2
TORQUE/SPIRALITY AATCC 179; Method 1, Knits:5%
Option 2 Wovens:3%

APPEARANCE AFTER AATCC 150/158. as per care No obvious


LAUNDERING/ (3 cycles/1 cycle) defects/observations
DRYCLEANING affecting the end product
performance/appearance,
color change/staining
satisfactory performance of
the components and trims.
List all observations.
FLAMMABILITY 16 CFR 1610/1611 Class 1 For trim, if applicable

COLORFASTNESS TO Section 35 LMBG 82.10 Minimum For trim, if applicable


SALIVA AATCC Grey Scale: 4.5
SEAM ASTM D1683 Length x width (min. lbs) Wovens only
STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE Fabric weight:
<4.0 oz/sq yard: 15 All seams
4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20
>6.1 oz/sq yard: 25

SEAM STRETCHABILITY AATCC TS 015 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Knits only
All seams
DOWNPROOFNESS IDFB 5530 Minimum 4 If down product
(tumbling method)
CARE INSTRUCTIONS 16 CFR 423 Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT 16 CFR 303 Verify all fiber content


claims
Mechanical Hazards
ABUSE TEST * (SEE 16 CFR 1500 Torque: Min 4 inch-pounds Includes all buttons, snaps,
BELOW) Tension: Min 16 lbs, 10 sec zipper pulls, and any
Flexure: Min 16 lbs applicable decorative trim

SHARP POINTS/SHARP 16 CFR 1500 Sharp points/edges shall not


EDGES be accessible before and
after use and abuse tests

SMALL PARTS 16 CFR 1500 Small parts shall not be


16 CFR 1501 present after use and abuse
tests

DRAWSTRING/CORDS See “Construction and


LOOPS/HANGERS Manufacturing
Requirements”

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ZIPPER GUARDS See “Construction and


Manufacturing
Requirements”

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* All Small Parts (zippers, buttons, snaps, bows, etc.) must be tested for removal by the
laboratory. Use and Abuse Testing

• Small Parts testing should be done on the sample in both its original and after-wash (3x) or -
dryclean (1x) states.

• Small parts testing performed on garment in original state should be done on a separate
garment (i.e. one garment for testing small parts in original state, and another garment for
testing Care Label wash test and after-wash small parts). Results must be reported
accordingly.

• All small parts on each garment submitted must be evaluated. For example, if a garment is
submitted that contains 6 snaps, all 6 snaps must be tested.

• If “small parts” detach during the washing process itself, there is no need to then perform the
test after 3X washing, as it would already be considered a major failure at this stage.

• Any failure at laboratory stage must be reported (by the regional office) to the NY Director
of Fabric and Testing and the NY Production department. Any failure requires 5 additional
garments to be sent from the vendor for retesting.

If the additional 5 garments are necessary, 4 garments must be tested for “small parts” in the
original state, while only 1 garment must be washed 3X and tested for “small parts” after
wash.

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Construction and Manufacturing Requirements


Note: Any deviation from these requirements must be approved by the New York Production Head
and by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing.
In addition to the construction and manufacturing requirements listed,
reasonable judgment and care must be exercised by the garment manufacturers to avoid any
latent hazard. Ann Taylor must be notified if, in the opinion of the manufacturer, the design
of the garment cannot be executed without creating a potential hazard.

Zippers
• Only zippers (including all parts) from suppliers approved by Ann Taylor can be used --
currently only YKK.

• Zipper protection is required on all garments. This requirement is specifically for any
"functional" zipper (serving as a closure), with the exception of pocket zippers.

Following are examples of acceptable forms of zipper protection:

1. Traditional zipper guard


• Minimum of 3/4 inch facing

2. Double placket/placket flange


• Used for reversible garments

3. Neck Zipper Guard Tab


• Used for piece at top neck

4. Molded Top Stop - Coil Zipper (coil zipper with an enclosed back)

Note: Invisible zippers exempt from above requirements.

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Appliqués, Decorations, etc.


Appliqués and other similar decorations must be stitched or bar-tacked with reinforcement
for added security.

Snap Control
Snap fasteners (functional and non-functional):
• Only snap fasteners from suppliers approved by Ann Taylor can be used --currently only
YKK, Scovill (Acotex), and Prym.
• The guidelines for snap attachment that are issued by YKK/Scovill/Prym must be
followed.
• Snap fasteners must not be applied over seams, fabric joints or uneven fabric thickness.
• The best construction is two plies of fabric and one ply of interlining. If interlining is
used, it must be sewn or fused onto the garment before snap application.
• A sample of each garment style must be sent to snap manufacturer for evaluation and
recommendation of product and machine setting (pinch setting, etc).
• Snap fasteners with uncovered prongs (no socket) are not allowed.
• Prongs must be long enough to properly attach and secure the snap to the seam. Snaps
with the leg of prong exposed are unacceptable.
• Ball and socket of snap must be accurately aligned.
• Grippers must be firmly attached, with no clearance between fabric and gripper.
• The bottom of the post must be flat
• The cap and post must be curled properly.
• The two staples must be completely curled.
• The cap or button must not turn around easily.
• Reused snaps are unacceptable.

• Snap attachment machines

• It is highly recommended for the factories to use YKK/Scovill/Prym machines,


as these are specially designed to maintain all settings properly.

• It is permissible however to use a machine other than the one recommended provided
that:

1) The dies are made by YKK/Scovill/Prym to specifically fit the machine


2) YKK/Scovill/Prym technicians evaluate the setting of the snaps
3) The factory checks the adjustment of the machine twice daily
4) No poorly set snaps are found in random inspections by our QA
5) The machine must be pneumatic or electric press. No manually operated
hand/foot press or electric flywheel type presses are allowed.

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ƒ The vendor must check the snap machine at least 2 times each day during
production to ensure the snaps are secure and consistent.
ƒ The snap machine must be tested 2 times each day using the tension testing
instrument to officially measure attachment strength. All snaps on actual
garments must be tested.

• Vendor must keep a record of daily inspections, which must be available to Ann Taylor
QA upon request.
• Vendor must have on hand a digital caliber to measure the total pinch setting on a regular
basis. If beyond +/-0.003 inches (of recommendation), snap supplier technicians should
be consulted.
• Data sheet must be kept by factory indicating evaluation of pinch setting anytime there is
a break in the production process (i.e. before work, after lunch, before overtime starts,
etc.).
• Vendor is responsible for 100% inspection of all snaps. Every garment must be
unsnapped and snapped at least 3 times to insure proper attachment.
• Vendor must perform “Removal of small parts” test on actual garments on a random basis
(See Factory Requirements—Small Parts)

Buttons (functional and non-functional)


Buttons smaller than 15 ligne should be of two-hole configuration.
Buttons larger than 15 ligne should be of four-hole configuration.
Buttons that crack, chip, or break cannot be used.
Only lock stitch button attachment machines can be used.
Buttons should be attached with a minimum of 15 needle passes.
A polyester thread should be used.

Hasps and Sliders


Wire diameter must be a minimum of 12 gauge (0.1046 inches)
All seams must be welded, no sharp points or edges.

Exception:
Hasps can be constructed with a cover plate over the wire joint, provided that the construction
prevents exposure of the wire ends.
This must be tested by repeated twisting and pulling with a minimum force of 16 lbs.

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Factory Requirements (Small Parts)

• Each manufacturer of Infant/Toddler/Children garments must have access to at least one


precise small parts cylinder.

• Each manufacturer of Infant/Toddler/Children garments must have a tension testing


instrument (“pull tester”) at the factory for random testing.

• Tension test is to be done on the actual garment on a random basis by the factory before shipping
and by the Ann Taylor QA person during the regular visits and inspections. (See Garment
Testing-Small Parts).

• If the garment is after-treated (stone, enzyme wash, etc.) the garments must be tested on a random
basis after they are completely finished.

• If the garments are not after-treated (regular garment wash or no wash) then occasionally some
garments should be washed (3X) according to the care label and tested after the washes.

• If a commercial laboratory failure is observed (See Garment Testing), then the factory must:
⇒ Provide an explanation for the poorly set snap, button, etc.
⇒ Indicate units in quarantine because of problem.
⇒ Indicate measures taken to resolve the problem
⇒ Send an additional 5 garments to the laboratory for testing.
If there are any failures in these next 5 garments, then Ann Taylor requires:
An additional 5 garments sent to the laboratory for testing (that must pass)
AND
Written documentation that 100% inspection has been performed by the factory.
Such documentation to be kept by Corporate QC as part of the final inspection report.

Note: Any failures are to be reported to the NY Director of Fabric and Testing and
Production.

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Loops and Hangers


Loops and hangers that could catch on something and tighten the neck opening, causing the child to
suffocate, must not be used in the collar and neck area.

Drawstring Requirements

1. No drawstrings will be allowed on hoods or around the neck area of any garments.

2. Drawstrings in any other area, including waist and bottoms, must not be exposed for more
than 3 inches from where the strings extend out of the garment when it is expanded to the
fullest.
In addition such draw cords must be securely fastened in the middle by bar tacking so that
they cannot be removed entirely.

3. No toggles, stoppers or knots can be used at the ends of drawstrings. If cords are made of
100% Polyester or Nylon, the ends should be heat-sealed. (Sharp points must not be created
by this method!). The ends of the drawstrings may be dipped in liquid plastic or tacked in to
prevent fraying.
Plastic tips (such as on shoelaces) may be used provided that they are continuously checked
for tight adherence. If any loose tips are found the whole shipment must be rejected.

Note: When plastic tipping is used at the ends of drawstrings, the tips must withstand a pull-
off force of at least 21 lbs.

Neck Stretch
Up to 12-18 months: 21”

18-24 months to 5T: 22”

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Sewing Needle Control

Needle detectors must be used before packing the garments.


“Needle Detector Control” form must be filled out by the factory and stored by Corporate QC for a
minimum of 3 years.

A conveyer-type machine or device is preferable.


The needle detectors must be properly calibrated and frequently checked.
(see Appendix C)

In addition, proper controls over needles and broken needle parts must be maintained in the sewing
operation to prevent such parts from remaining accidentally in the garment.

In-line needle control at factory

Note: Factory is responsible for implementing, monitoring, and maintaining the


following needle-control program.

Machine:
• No spare needles at any sewing machines
• All stock and spare needles must be kept by an appointed production person.
• When there is a needle breakage, production cannot be resumed until all remaining
needle parts are found. Before receiving a replacement needle, sewing machine operator
must submit all pieces of needle.
• Appointed production person is the only one authorized to replace needles. Machine
operators cannot replace needles on their own.
• If all parts of needle cannot be found, then the garment (s) being sewn must be
completely inspected (i.e. hand-held needle detection device). If lost parts still cannot be
found, then garment (s) must be destroyed.
• A “Needle Log” must be kept by the factory to record all broken needles. This log
should list date, time, machine type, operation, product type, and customer’s name. All
broken parts of the needle must be attached to the “Needle Log”. Supervisors must sign
and indicate what course of action was taken if the log shows that some part of the needle
was not found.
• All “Needle Logs” must be available for review by Ann Taylor QA during their regularly
scheduled factory visits and by Ann Taylor offices and/or agents upon request.

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Hand:
• Needles must be “checked-out” by the operator at the beginning of each shift
• An operator cannot keep additional needles at his/her location unless noted on the
“check-out” sheet.
• All needles must be “checked-in” at the end of each work shift.
• If an operator has not turned in every needle he/she checked-out, then the operator’s
entire production must be inspected. If the missing needle is still not found, then the
operator’s entire day’s production must be destroyed.

Metal Pins, Wires, and Staples Control

No metal pins, wires, or staples may be used in any part of the production process for
bundling, tacking, or securing components.

Sewing Thread

Monofilament thread must not be used on any garment. Any other kind of continuous
filament thread is also undesirable.

Flame Retardant Finishes

Flame retardant finishes can only be applied if specifically permitted in writing by Ann
Taylor on a case by case basis. Flammability testing must be adjusted accordingly if flame
retardants are used.

Stone Washing

If actual stones are used:


All pockets on garments that will be stonewashed must be stitched closed so that no stones can get into the
pockets and accidentally remain there.

In order to facilitate the removal of the seam after stone washing:


a.) Use the smallest number of stitches/inch that is technically possible (no more than 5-6)
b.) Use the loosest thread tension possible
c.) Use a cotton thread that is strong enough to withstand stone washing but can be broken by the
consumer. The thread should be a different shade from the fabric to be easily seen but not a different
color that would detract from the look of the garment.

A hang tag should be used on all such garments to advise the consumer that the pockets are stitched shut for
protection during stone washing and for the consumer to remove the threads and open the pockets.

Note: If the pocket stitching is removed prior to shipping, 100% inspection must be performed by the factory to
make sure no stones remain in the pockets.

Plastic Bag Warning


Plastic bags with width and length both larger than 5 inches and are sold with the product shall have the
following statement or its equivalent present on the bag:

"WARNING: Plastic bags can be dangerous. To avoid danger of suffocation, keep this bag away from babies
and children." The letter height shall be a minimum of 1/8 inch.

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APPENDIX A

Children’s Sleepwear
Children’s Sleepwear classification Guidelines

Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the
responsibility of New York design and production to assure that none of the garments could
be “classified as sleepwear” (even though they are not intended to be).

Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment
could be “classified as sleepwear”.

Sleepwear:

Any product or wearing apparel intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities
related to sleeping. Such “activities” include those that a child is involved in while getting
ready for bed or while wearing sleepwear garments before going to bed or after getting up
in the morning.

The classification of sleepwear is very subjective. The Consumer Product Safety


Commission (CPSC) determinations may be made on the following criteria:
• The subjective evaluation of a garments’ suitability as sleepwear
• The manner in which the garment is marketed, advertised, and displayed
• The likelihood that a garment will be purchased and used as sleepwear

Note: Hang tags or labels that state that a garment is not intended to be used for sleepwear
are not sufficient and cannot be used to avoid special testing requirements.

Can this garment be classified as sleepwear?

1. Compare to sleepwear garment silhouettes (see “Sleepwear Silhouettes”)


• One-piece footed garments
• One piece non-footed garments
• Two piece footed garments
• Two piece non-footed garments
• Gown with drawstring bottom
• Gown with open bottom
• Robes (unless clearly intended for pool/beach use)

Note: if a garment does not match a silhouette, it is not automatically considered


“playwear” (as opposed to “sleepwear”).

2. Is the garment loose fitting, non-restrictive, and made from comfortable fabric (common
characteristics of sleepwear garments)?

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3. Is it constructed of typical sleepwear fabric (see “Traditional Sleepwear Fabric”)?

4. Do the colors or designs indicate sleepwear?

5. Does the marketing imply sleepwear?

6. Is there excessive ornamentation or trim?

• the greater the amount of ornamentation or trim, the greater the likelihood that a
garment will not be considered sleepwear.

Even if a particular garment matches a silhouette, is suitable for use as sleepwear, and is
made from traditional sleepwear fabric, other factors will influence the CPSC decision—such
as:
Design modifications: i.e. snap-shoulder closures are viewed as playwear, not
sleepwear features.

All criteria are subjectively evaluated by the CPSC.

*Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment
could be classified as sleepwear

Note: Customs tariff/quota classification of these garments may not correspond with those
of the CPSC.

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Sleepwear Exceptions

(Note: All of below “Sleepwear Exceptions” must still meet the regular flammability
standards, 16 CFR 1610, Class 1)

1. Infants’ 0-9 months (effective January 1, 1997)


Exempt because studies have shown that infants in this age range lack mobility, which reduces the risk of injury
from clothing burns significantly.
• May be sold as sleepwear without having to meet the additional sleepwear flammability
standards and testing.
• Covers one-piece and two-piece garments
• Covers footed and non-footed garments
• No restriction on fabric construction or content
• Must not exceed maximum length measurements:
one-piece garments (25.75 in/64.8 cm --maximum)
two-piece garments (15.75 in/40 cm --maximum)
• Must be size-labeled, with label visible to consumer at point of purchase(on garment or
package)
• Can be marketed as sleepwear

2. Skin Tight Garments for over 9 months


Exempt because studies indicate that tight-fitting garments are a much less flammability risk than loose fitting
garments such as nightgowns, robes, and pajamas.
• May be sold as sleepwear without having to meet the additional sleepwear flammability
standards and testing.
• Covers one-piece and two-piece garments
• Covers footed and non-footed garments
• No restriction on fabric construction or content
• Must be tapered at ankles and wrists
• Must not exceed maximum dimensions in seven critical areas (see “Maximum
Dimensions for Tight Fitting Garments”).
• Must be size-labeled
• Ornamentation is limited-cannot extend more than ¼ in. from point of attachment to outer
surface
• Can be marketed as sleepwear

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3. Long Underwear---must match silhouette in Diagram D (2-piece non-footed garments in


sizes 0-14) and adhere to the following:
• Garment must be designed to be skin tight
• Garment must be made of fabric traditionally used in long underwear
• Garment must be clearly promoted as underwear
• Garment must not be decorated with a large amount of trim such as ribbons, lace, etc.
• Specific sizing standards (equal to or less) used by the CPSC to determine skin
tightness for long underwear—(see “Long Underwear, Critical Dimensions”).
• Wrist and ankle cuffs must be tight enough to secure the underwear in place as a child
pulls an outer garment over it.
• Sleep-related motifs are not permissible, as this type of decoration may lead the
consumer to believe the items can be used as sleepwear.
• Long-underwear features, like rib-knit cuffs and exposed elastic waistbands, are
highly recommended.

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Sleepwear Silhouettes

A. One-Piece Footed Garments:

B. One-Piece Non-Footed Garments:

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C. Two-Piece Footed Garments: D. Two-Piece Non-Footed Garments:

E. Gown with Drawstring Bottom:

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F. Gown with Open Bottom:

Robe:

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Traditional Sleepwear Fabric


(CPSC Guidelines)

Type of Fabric Weight Range (oz/yd2)

Jersey Knit 2.4-5.2


Blanket Weight Fleece 5.0-7.0
Brushed Jersey 5.7-6.7
Stretch Terry 5.5-7.7
Interlock and Rib Knit 4.0-6.0
Warp Knit Flannel 2.6-4.2

Note: Use of fabrics outside these weight ranges and/or constructions does not guarantee that a
garment will be considered “playwear”.

Fabrics that are not traditionally used in sleepwear include:


• Corduroy
• Velours
• French terry
• Waffle knits
• Sweatshirt fleece
• Woven twills

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Long Underwear:

Critical Dimensions for Two-Piece Non-Footed Garments


Pursuant to the CPSC guidelines, "decorative" long underwear and similar garments

are considered to be "skin tight" if their critical dimensions are equal to or less than the

standard garment measurements published by the National Institute for Standards and

Technology covering garments in all sizes. If a garment is sized in "ranges", such as Small

(5), Medium (M) and Large (L), the standard measurement used for comparison will be that

of the smallest size within the range. For example, if a “Small” covers sizes 4 to 6, the size

4 standards will be used by the CPSC to determine whether the garment is skin tight.

It is important to note that the CPSC will measure garments prior to shrinkage (i.e.,

prior to washing in accordance with care instructions) in determining critical dimensions.

The following charts set forth the critical dimensions evaluated by the CPSC:

A. Chest Measurements
B. Hip Measurements
C. Thigh Measurements

A) CHEST—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES

INFANT SIZES -- 3 mos. 6 mos. 12 mos. (Size 1) 18 mos.

17 18 19 20

CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 3 4 5 6 6X

21 22 23 24 25 25.5

How to measure:
The chest is measured horizontally across the front of the garment from underarm to underarm. This
measurement is then doubled to arrive at the chest circumference. In each size listed, the chest
circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the
garment to be considered skin tight.

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ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

B) HIPS—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES

INFANT SIZES -- 3 mos. 6 mos. 12 mos. (Size 1) 18 mos.

Waist to Hip 3 7/8 3 7/8 3 7/8 3 7/8


Hip 21 ½ 21 ½ 21 ½ 21 ½

CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 3 4 5 6 6X


Waist to Hip 3 7/8 4 3/8 4¾ 5 1/8 5½ 5¾
Hip 21 ½ 22 ½ 23 ½ 24 ½ 25 ½ 26 ½

Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes
of long underwear critical dimensions for hips.

How to measure: The hip is first located by using the size standards labeled “Waist to Hip.” For
example, the hip on a size 4 garment will be located exactly 4 ¾ inches from the waistband. Once
the hip is located, it is measured across the front of the garment, and this measurement is doubled to
arrive at the hip circumference. In each size listed, the hip circumference must be equal to, or less
than, the above standard measurements in order for the garment to be considered skin tight.

C) THIGHS—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES

INFANT SIZES -- 3 mos. 6 mos. 12 mos. (Size 1) 18 mos.

12 12 12 12

CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 3 4 5 6 6X

12 12 ½ 13 13 ½ 14 14 ½

Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes
of long underwear critical dimensions for Thighs.

How to measure: The thigh is measured horizontally across the upper leg area to the crotch. The
measurement is doubled to arrive at the thigh circumference. In each size listed, the thigh
circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the
garment to be considered skin tight.

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51 April 2008
ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

Maximum Dimensions for Tight-Fitting Garments


(In Centimeters (CM) and Inches (IN))

CHEST WAIST SEAT UPPER THIGH WRIST ANKLE


ARM
CM IN CM IN CM IN CM IN CM IN CM IN CM IN

9-12 mos. 48.3 19 48.3 19 48.3 19 14.3 5.625 26.7 10.5 10.5 4.125 13 5.125
12-18 mos 49.5 19.5 49.5 19.5 50.8 20 14.9 5.875 28.3 11.125 10.5 4.125 13.1 5.125
18-24 mos 52.1 20.5 50.8 20 53.3 21 15.6 6.125 29.5 11.625 11 4.25 13.6 5.375
Size 2 52.1 20.5 50.8 20 53.3 21 15.6 6.125 29.8 11.75 11.4 4.5 14 5.5
Size 3 53.3 21 52.1 20.5 56 22 16.2 6.375 31.4 12.375 11.7 4.625 14.9 5.875
Size 4 56 22 53.3 21 58.4 23 16.8 6.625 33 13 12.1 4.75 15.9 6.25
Size 5 58.4 23 54.6 21.5 61 24 17.5 6.875 34.6 13.625 12.4 4.875 16.8 6.625
Size 6 61 24 55.9 22 63.5 25 18.1 7.125 36.2 14.25 12.7 5 17.8 7
Size 6X 62.9 24.75 57.2 22.5 65.4 25.75 18.7 7.375 37.8 14.875 13 5.125 18.7 7.375

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52 April 2008
APPENDIX B

Needle Detectors
100% NEEDLE DETECTION IS A REQUIREMENT FOR GARMENTS SHIPPED IN SIZES INFANTS
AND TODDLERS.

Broken needles are a common problem at factory level, and it is crucial that no sharp points or sharp
edges be found in these garments.

1. A conveyer type needle detector is highly recommended


• Belt speed must be set at manufacturer’s setting, and must not be altered.
• Manual use of machine is not acceptable

2. The sensitivity of the machine must be set to a 1.2mm iron sphere.

The iron sphere is an industry accepted practice for calibration, since:


• most needles are made of an iron alloy
• a sphere produces a constant signal and is not affected by orientation.

1.2 mm is used, since:


• the majority of the breaks occur at the eye of the needle, leaving the tips embedded in the
garment.
• It has been determined that the smallest size of a needle tip would be 1.2 mm in diameter.

3. Calibration
• Calibration is performed by using a 1.2 mm iron sphere.
• Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed for proper calibration.
• Frequent calibrations---at least twice and day, and always before switching from one garment style
to another. A daily record must be kept by the factory and available to Ann Taylor Corporate QC
upon request.
Note: The weakest point of sensitivity is in the middle of the aperture (#5 in below diagram);
however the iron sphere must be placed through the machine in all 9 areas for calibration purposes.

POINTS OF CALIBRATION
Cross Section of Needle Detector Tunnel

7 8 9
Top
4 5 6
Middle
1 2 3
Bottom

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Requirements and Testing 53 December 2007
The machine operator must be trained by the needle detector manufacturer to ensure its proper use. Such
documentation must be on file.

4. If hand-held or table top needle detectors are used, operators must follow the correct operating
procedure and manufacturer’s guidelines. Sensitivity of the machine must still be set to a 1.2 mm iron
sphere.

5. For optimal performance, the needle detector machine should be placed:


• in a metal free zone
• in a stable working environment (i.e. vibration-free, temperature 0-40 C, no
humidity/condensation)

6. The following materials/processes may adversely effect the needle detecting process
• Stonewashing
• Pigments prints that contain iron
• Packing material that contains iron
• Closed loop accessory (for example, a hasp)
• Motor operated machine

Section 10 - Infant and Toddler


Requirements and Testing 54 December 2007

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