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Pedal Rig Tips

Multi-Effects vs Stomp Pedals

Does Pedal Order Matter?
Easy FX Loops--Finally
Pedalboard "Failures"?
Noise: Types and Causes
"AC Adapters" (and other confusing names for power supplies)
Chassis Style Supplies
How Many mA Do Pedals Really Draw?
Power Chains
True Bypass Truths
Pedaltrain Pedalboards

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Multi-Effects vs Stomp Pedals
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Players often debate whether to go with a multi-effects unit or several stomp pedals. The the positive perception of multi-FX units
is three-fold:

1. All the effects one needs can be had in one unit (true)
2. Fewer pedalboard connections means fewer problems (this is actually misleading; see Pedalboard "Failures")
3. High-end rack FX can be better for some sounds (true, if you can afford them)

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There was a migration towards multi-FX in the 1990's. While PedalSnake works fine with multi-FX, there has been a trend back 
to stomp boxes, which have now made a big comeback. Here are some of the reasons: 

MULTI-FX STOMP BOXES

Have many sounds in one unit You get one sound per stomp box (usually)

A single program can call up many FX at once Each stomp boxes must be stomped individually

Players rarely like all the sounds inside Each stomp box can be chosen for a sound you like

You are stuck with all the sounds the unit It is easy change out stomp boxes, one at a time

Multi-FX are more expensive, and harder to resell Stomp boxes are usually less than $100, easier to resell

Programming with menus is slow and painful Turning a knob on a stomp box is fast and easy

Digital FX can sound unnatural Analog FX in stomp boxes can sound better

Digital modeling of distortion has come a long way, but... The best distortions are still analog

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Pedal Order

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Does it matter? Yes.
 
If you get distortion from the front end of a gain-master type amp, the FX Loop becomes important too.
 
The main idea is that you want time-based FX AFTER any distortion happens.  You do this to "delay the distortion" rather than 
"distort the delay" (using "delay" as an example),
 
The main rules of thumb are:
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If you DO NOT use an FX Loop

 Start with Gain-FX

 Put noisier Gain-FX after quieter ones
 Put Time-Based-FX after Gain-FX

If you DO use an FX Loop

 Put Gain-FX in the AmpInput chain

 Put noisier Gain-FX after quieter ones
 Put Time-Based-FX in the FX Loop chain

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Finally--Easy FX Loops
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This is one of the great benefits of PedalSnake. With PedalSnake, amps with FX Loops are just as easy as amps without them---
you always run only one cable, no matter what your rig contains.
 
You see, in the past players tended to avoid using Loops, even if their amp had one. They hated running the 2 extra guitar cords
(which was somewhat of a pain).
 
Should you use your FX Loop? See Pedal Order above.
 
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Pedalboard "Failures"?
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This sounds weird, but its a fact, and happens all the time. 1. Low current (under 1000mA)
2. Low voltage (under 30V)
A layer of rust (see galvanic corrosion) will slowly form between 3. They are not disconnected or jiggled around
electrical contacts if they experience these 3 conditions... over a long period of time

It just so happens, pedalboards experience all 3 conditions listed
above, so...
 They can occasionally exhibit "pops", "crackles", and "fade-
outs" if the connections are not moved around periodically
 (This is why smacking electronic devices upside the
head will often make them straighten up---the
vibration broke through the thin rust layer).
 Still, perfectly good cables often get thrown away for no
good reason, and folks begin to think "fewer connections
mean fewer failures".
 While this is technically true, it is rarely a factor with
pedalboards...
NOTE  Use cables with standard nickel-
plated plugs (despite marketing claims
about gold, pure copper, etc.). Why?
 The electrical industry's standard
connector contact metal is nickel,
so...
 ...all guitar amps, pedals, etc.
have nickel connectors
 Rust happens faster if 2 contacts are
not the same metal (see dissimilar
metals), like a gold guitar plug going
into the nickel connector on a pedal.

...Why?  ...no matter how many connections you have

on a pedalboard, oxidation of contacts will
cause more failures than anything else if

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 Because they aren't handled or stressed a lot, good quality some periodic "jiggling" is not done. 
cords and cables on pedalboards generally do not break, and,  This is especially true if you live near
 There is a more common reason for pedalboard failures... corrosive "salty ocean air".

To avoid pops and fadeouts at  Use all standard nickel plated plugs
gigs, all you have to do is:   Every 6 months, break any rust layer like this:
 Twist all connectors back and forth several
times
 Move connectors in and out several times
 If you live near the ocean, do this monthly

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Types and Causes of Noise

Guitar rigs are susceptible to 3 types of noise, each with a different cause:

 HUM . A low pitched, smooth bass tone (60Hz).

 If it does go away when you turn the ax down, you are probably using single coil pickups and standing too close
to a power transformer in an amp.
 If it does not go away when your turn the guitar down, it is caused by:
 A ground loop in your rig, and can be fixed (see Grounding and Hum).
 A cheap power supply.  Get a good "audio" supply like SnakePOWER, or a wall wart from Boss, Dunlop,
etc.
 An overloaded supply.  Remove some pedals from the power-chain, or upgrade to SnakePOWER with
500mA---the most of any isolated-transformer 9VDC supply. This is enough current to power 15-20 9V Battery
Pedals without overload.

 BUZZ . Similar to Hum (from 60Hz wall power frequency), but sounds like a "buzz" instead, with a higher pitched
component in the sound
 If does go away when you you turn the guitar down, you are probably using single-coil pickups and getting buzz
from light dimmers, neon lights, color TV's, etc. (these emit radio waves).
 Try turning-off these buzz sources, or move away from them.
 It may help to rewire your pickups and pots properly, and shield the cavity (the manufacturers rarely do),
Stewart-MacDonald has a nice kit, and Shielding a Strat has an excellent guide for proper wiring--take it to a
good tech if you don't do it yourself.
 If it does not go away when you turn the guitar down, you may have
 A damaged (or cheap) amp. Get a better one (we all will one day!)
 Horribly noisy wall power. Try plugging your amp into a good power strip that claims "EMI" filtering on the
package
 HISS . Is just  what it sounds like---a high pitched "white noise".
 Hiss is typically "system" noise, and does not go away when the ax is turned down.
 The most common cause is high gain. Use only enough gain to get the right sound (which can be a lot
sometimes).
 Other than that, hiss is best reduced by getting better amps and FX pedals.
 POWER SUPPLY NOISE  This is like buzz, but is not always based on the 60 Hz "wall power" frequency.  It is based 
on the switching frequency of your pedal's power supplies.
 Power supplies, unless they are expensvie chassis style supplies with "toroid" transformers, can radiate noise as
radio frequencies. This does not imply you need an expensive toroidal power supply, only that you shouldn't put
standard power supplies right up next to your pedals and cables. When moved to a safe distance, there is no
difference in noise between the expensive supplies and the standard wall warts. They isolation and circuitry are the
same, and the typical wall wart will have a higher current rating than most of the outputs provided by the expensive
supply, which makes them better for power chains.  For more, see Chassic Style Supplies below.
 A fun experiment:  Put a typical wall wart on an extension cord, and wave it around your pedals and cables while 
the volume is up loud on your amp. This will give you an idea of how much noise your power supplies contribute, how
far away they need to be, etc.
 This is one reason PedalSnake makes rigs quieter.  Wall wart supplies move to the backline, away from 
your pedals and cables. They even plug in to the same power strip as your amp, which yields a quieter "star
ground".

If you do everything right to prevent noise, and still have problems, you could try a noise gate.  While they may be needed for 
high-gain players, they do alter the sound a bit, and are considered a "band-aid fix".  Its better to try to kill noise at its source. 
This is why most high-gain players use (quieter) humbucker pickups.

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"AC Adapters" (and other confusing names for power supplies)
At PedalSnake, we think power supply, and even wall wart, are less confusing names to use. Other names, like "AC adapter"
or "power adapter", are really misleading terms.  Why?

 Power supplies don't "adapt" anything. . They convert (aka "transform") 120VAC wall-voltage to a low-voltage for pedals
and other electronic stuff.
 Most power supplies do not output "AC" power---most deliver DC power.
 Various types of Power Plug Adapters are also described as "power adapters", which is a better use of the term.

Two types of power supplies:

Wall warts are the most economical way to get clean, quiet power. You just
and have to know how to use them... Some nice characteristics of wall warts
are:
annnnnndWall Warts 
 They almost always have have isolated transformers (like
SnakePOWER, Boss, Dunlop, etc.), so they are very quiet.
 Our tests show that good wall warts, when used properly, are not
only as quiet as more expensive chassis supplies, but as quiet as
batteries!  
 Don't overload the wall wart power supply (it may hum). See
Supply Current Ratings.
 To avoid induced noise, keep wall warts (at least) a few inches
aways from audio connections within your pedals.
(PedalSnake makes this easy).
 Avoid ground loop hum: Be careful with a power chain from
one wall wart that connects to more than one pedal chain.
 Use a "star ground" in your rig...plug your wall warts into the
same power strip as your amp. (PedalSnake makes this
easy).
 For more...see Grounding and Hum.
 They are mass-produced in large volumes, so they are usually 
inexpensive ($20 or less)
 They almost always have an output of 200mA or more. This means:
 They can usually power 6-8 9V Battery Pedals
 They are well-suited for use with PedalSnake PLines and
power-chains

Most wall warts have a cable with a male plug, requiring our MF1-H (or MF2-I) PLine Pigtails Kit.

However, our SnakePOWER has a female jack:

 Requiring MM1 (or MM2-I) PLine Pigtails Kit.  

 At 500mA, SnakePOWER has the highest output in the industry (for 9VDC)
 This easily powers 15-20 9V Battery Pedals

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Chassis Style
Supplies  Wall wart supplies can induce noise when the supply is placed right up against pedals or wiring. The
better chassis style supplies have a toroidal transformer, which keeps noise from being induced this
way, so the supply can be placed quietly right next to the pedals. But, when moved a foot or
 
two away, a wall wart supply is just as quiet, and a LOT cheaper.

In addition, chassis style supplies:

 Have multiple female output jacks in the chassis (no cable/plug like a wall wart). Use MM1 (or
MM2-I) PLine Pigtails.
 Are more expensive than wall warts ($175 or more).
 Are made to be on pedalboards, which requires running that nasty 120VAC power cord to the
pedal area...uuuggghhh.
 Some brands have outputs of only 100mA each, which powers only 3-4 9V Battery Pedals,
taking little advantage of
 Power-chains
 PedalSnake PLines
 Outputs can be isolated from each other, but not always
 Having many isolated outputs can solve some hum problems, but...

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 ...so can adding a 2nd wall wart, which is much more affordable, because wall warts are
isolated too. Usually, isolating each "pedal chain" on its own wall wart works great!

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How Many mA Do Pedals Really Draw?

A pedal will draw a certain amount of current (mA) from a power supply (or battery). This is NOT the same as the "mA rating" of
the supply.  The real current draw of the pedal is usually much less than the supply's current rating (usually printed on the 
supply, in "mA"). So you can usually power-chain several pedals from one supply.

For example, a typical "9V battery" pedal draws less than 20mA. So you can usually power 4-5 of these with a 200mA power
supply without exceeding 50% (100mA) of the supply's current rating. It is a good rule of thumb to not stress your power supply
to the limit of its current rating. Staying at 50% or less will keep the supply running cooler, which will increase its reliability and
extend its life.

For power-chaining purpose, knowing the real current draw of your pedals (or estimating it) can help you determine how many
pedals you can run off the supply.  (You usually get a clue that you are chaining too many if you start to hear hum, or the supply 
gets hot. They usually get warm, so this is a judgment call).

If you can know (or estimate) the current draw of each pedal, you can check the mA rating of the supply and figure about how
many pedals it will power. These resources can help:

PedalSnake defines 4 Current Categories for pedals. This can greatly

Pedal Current Categories simplify your decisions about power-chains and PLines.

If you really want to push the limits of a supply, you may not want to estimate the
The Power List current draw. Many are listed here, by manufacturer.

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Power-Chains
 Reduce the number of power supplies you use 
 Reduce the number of PLines you need for your PedalSnake 

Get a power-chain cable, like

our Daisy4S, and chain power
from one supply to several
pedals of a given voltage (like
9VDC).

Daisy4S has all standard 2.1mm plugs. Power Plug Adapters are available for pedals and for supplies if needed.

Whether you use PedalSnake or not, you must power chain properly to avoid hum. See;

 Grounding and Hum

 Current Rating
 Real Current Draw
 The Power List

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True-Bypass Truths
What is a True-Bypass Pedal?

When a pedal is "true bypass", it means that when it is "off", the input is hardwired to the output with no electrical circuit in
between.  The electrical circuit is completely "bypassed".  It is like the pedal isn't even there.  The signal is just wired straight 

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thru, with no "buffer" circuit supplying the signal to the ouptut. Even when a true-bypass pedal is off, and no battery or power of
any kind is applied, you can still play your guitar thru the pedal. It just becomes a direct connection to the next pedal (or amp)
when it is off.

What is a Non-True-Bypass Pedal?

These are what we call "buffered" pedals. The electronic circuit is not bypassed when the pedal is off---just the "effect" part of
the circuit is turned off. This is done to overcome cable capacitance. The longer the cable, the higher the capacitance. Buffer-
circuits (with lower output impedance) will push the guitar signal thru any cable capacitance better than a guitar pickup. NOTE:
This is why you have to unplug the cable from the input of a buffered pedal to save the battery. Even if the "effect" is stomped
off, the circuit is still on and will continue to drain the battery until you do unplug the cable.

The Truth
The first pedals ever made (1960's) were true-bypass.  But tone-loss was noticed when using longer cables. So, the buffered
pedal was invented.

In the 1990's true-bypass made a come back. Some players were saying buffer circuits "colored" their tone, and they wanted
true-bypass. However, with "all true-bypass", they must be aware of cable capacitance,which means using shorter cables, and
more expensive, low-capacitance cables. (This may all seem a bit strange---true-bypass pedals still turn on the circuit on when
the effect is on).

But...there is a catch to using an all true-bypass pedals: Cable capacitance adds up with cable length (this mainly affects
the pedal-chain that connects to a guitar pickup). So, if you have all true-bypass pedals, and have...

 25' cord from guitar to pedals

 15' of worth of short cables between pedals
 20' cord from pedals to amp

...you are using a "virtual 60-foot cable" (when all pedals are off), and it is being driven by the guitar pickup. This can cause
signal loss (usually heard more as high-frequency "tone loss") no matter how good the cables are.

For this reason, most pedals today are buffered (not true-bypass).  With the buffer (lower output impedance), we don't have to 
worry so much about using expensive short cables. Buffers are usually 200-2,000 ohms, while guitar pickups are usually 6,000-
14,000.  So the "worst buffer" (2,000) will drive 3 times more cable than the best pickup (6,000). 

PedalSnake Recommends

 Becuase PedalSnake G-Lines are of higher capacitance, a player should include at least one good, buffered pedal (like a
tuner) in the pedal-chain that connects to the guitar pickup (the "primary chain").  
 The primary chain is the only one that needs a buffer. FX Sends, wireless outputs, etc., are usually buffered already.
 Once there is one buffer in the primary chain, you are covered. After that, the more true-bypass pedals you have, the
better.  Too many buffers can indeed start to color your sound (but it usually takes at least 6-8 to begin to notice anything).

The Rationale

We have never seen anyone who could hear one good buffered pedal color their tone in a blindfolded A/B test. A few folks out
there may be able to pass such a test (it aint easy), but of those few, there are probably even fewer who actully care. Of course,
WAY too many buffers can be stacked up, and tone loss becomes obvious then.

Overall, we think it is fair to say that a few good buffered pedals will not "color tone" for the vast majority of players. We have a
bunch of Boss pedals, and others, and don't worry too much about it, except not to use too many. A good practical limit may be
4-6 buffered pedals in your rig, but let your ears be the judge.

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Pedaltrain Pedalboards

 Pedaltrains Pedalboards---the best for PedalSnake, or for any rig,

really
 Pedaltrain's raised, tilted design allows...

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and  Easy tie-off of PedalSnake plug n play Pigtails underneath (they even
supply nice velcro!)
and  This yeilds the famous the UltraCool Look for PedalSnake.
 PedalSnake to coil-up in the Pedaltrain case
 Easy stomping
 Elegant in their simplicity, rugged, and affordable
 Tough black powercost finish lasts a lifetime
 Lightweight aluminum alloy construction---super strong
 No gimmicks like "built-in" power supplies or power patch bays to cause
hum problems. Why is this desirable?
 Power supply patchbay outputs are almost always a power-chain;
i.e., not isolated from one another.
 So, to stay hum free, power is best done with individual isolated wall
warts. Usually, when hum occrurs, a 2nd isolated wall wart is needed to
isolate one pedal chain from another. See Grounding and Hum.
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