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Objective: -
The objective of the study is to the Retail Market and its constituents.
To evaluate the options of retailing in leather industry.
Research Methodology: -
Qualitative methodology: -
We have done qualitative research in which we have collected the data from the
tailor made sources.
India’s estimated 33 million retail outlets, big and small, provide employment to
15 percent of employable Indians and are perhaps the largest contributor to
India’s gross domestic product after services. During the next decade, retailing
is expected to generate one million additional jobs in the newly-emergent
organized retail trade. Therefore there’s a premium on trained personnel,
urgently needed to sustain the growth of this sector.
"Retailing is one of the oldest business activities in India. But until the
liberalization and deregulation of the Indian economy in the 1990s, it was
dominated by small one-man retail units. However since the past five years, it
has become more structured and formalized and is moving towards
international standards. Today, the organized retail sector is an industry.
Retailers have started investing in large and quality spaces and shopping malls
have sprung up across the country, combining retailing with entertainment,
transforming shopping into a pleasurable experience. Currently India has over
300 large shopping malls and the number is multiplying at a phenomenal pace,"
says Chandru Chandiramani, deputy general manager (retail) of the textiles
division of Raymond Ltd. This textiles major is among the largest integrated
manufacturers of worsted fabrics with diversified operations including
engineering, steel files and specialty steels, toiletries and cosmetics, ring denim,
prophylactics and the recently launched national chain of stores retailing prêt
fashionwear under the brand name Be.
Indian retailing
- Largest employer after agriculture - 8%* of
population
- Highest outlet density in world
- Around 12 million outlets
- Still evolving as an industry
- Long way to go
E vo
Historic/R
Reach
Evolution of Indian Retail
Informal retailing Sector
- Typically small retailers.
- Evasion of taxes
- Difficulty in enforcing tax collection mechanisms
- No monitoring of labor laws.
Hypermarket
Big Bazaar
Giants
Shoprite
Star
Department store
Lifestyle
Pantaloons
Piramyds
Shoppers Stop
Trent
Entertainment
Fame Adlabs
Fun Republic
Inox
PVR
Industry Dynamics
Low domestic competition
- Because of fragmented nature of industry
Organized retail in India is only two per cent of the total US$ 215 billion
retail industry
Growth Prospects
Organized trade in India is very underdeveloped when compared with other
emerging markets in Asia, Latin America and eastern Europe. Figures show
that developed markets like the US are far, far ahead. (Tables 1 and 2)
Table 1
China India
Parameter
1996 2003 2005
Per capita GDP (USD) 675 1,109 710
Size of retail market (USD billion) 225 400 215
Share of organised trade (per cent) 7-8 ~17 <4
Table 2
Country Share of organized trade (per cent) (2003)
India 4
China 17
Poland 20
Indonesia 30
Russia 33
Brazil 35
Thailand 40
Malaysia 55
USA 85
90
80 India
70 China
60 Poland
50 Indonesia
40 Russia
30 Brazil
20
Thailand
10
Malaysia
0
USA
Share of organised trade (per cent) (2003)
Organized retail
In conclusion, the retail market in India offers an opportunity for a large player
to build a Rs 40,000-crore retail business spanning multiple categories by 2015
(at current prices). Compared to this, the revenue of the largest Indian retailer,
Pantaloon, grossed only Rs 1,085 crore in 2005. Little wonder that large
domestic business houses and international retailers have expressed a keen
interest to enter the retail sector in India. To capitalise on the opportunity,
however, players need to be aggressive in outlook and build scale quickly.
CHARACTERISTICS UNDER STUDY
i) FDI in retail
Current Indian FDI Regime
- Private labels
- Hi-Tech items / items requiring specialized after sales
service
- Medical and diagnostic items
- Items sourced from the Indian small sector (manufactured
with technology provided by the foreign collaborator)
- For 2 year test marketing (simultaneous commencement
of investment in manufacturing facility required)
Food world
4) Investment in technology
5) Better lifestyle
300
n
The 7 P’s of Marketing
a) Product –
One need to see his own product from the consultant point of view.
As though you are an outside marketing consultant brought in by the
company to check whether this is the right business at this time. One
need to answer such questions like “Are these products are
frequently used by the customer?” because Frequent Buying is one of
the major driving force in the Retail Industry.
b) Prices –
In the countries like India, the economy is still price sensitive. The
price is the driver for the specialized retailers who had established
themselves in the market like Big Bazaar, Reliance Fresh. Also
relating to the price the customer perception come into the picture,
i.e., many of the people do not visit the retail outlets because they
perceive these as very costlier outlets. This ‘Myth’ about the price
was broken by Big Bazaar; Big Bazaar gives a full page advertise in
the leading news paper of local area highlighting individual prices of
the products in it. Thus, the people realize that the products in the
retail outlets are actually cheaper than their nearest grocery shops.
c) Place –
e) People –
The people are very important part in the retail sector as a whole
because the retail concept is taking its own shape and the trends are
not stable at all. (As it is very new concept in India). So, the retail
organization has to monitor those trends and the workforce has to
change its style of retailing. Within the time span of few weeks.
f) Process –
g) Physical Evidence –
P H Y S I C A L
E N V I R O N M E N T
A M B I E N C I EN F R A S T R U CH OT US PR IE T A L I T Y
Consumer Behavior
CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE OPTIMIZATION
Your customers have conscious and unconscious experiences each and every
time they walk into your store, open your catalogue or visit you online. Good,
bad or indifferent, these experiences create multiple impressions, some rational
and some emotional. The purposeful management of the customer experience
builds deep emotional connections leading to strong brand preference,
increased loyalty, repeat business and ultimately, profitable growth.
The reality:
The solution: New products are more successful when designers analyze usage
patterns earlier to determine the product’s key success factors. Once identified,
these key success factors should be optimized and streamlined to create a
consumer-grade experience that will attract mass consumer success.
Myth 2: The more consumers see it, the more successful it will
be
The problem: Many companies believe in their product so much that they can’t
understand why it isn’t successful. They assume that the problem is that others
don’t know about the product, so they increase their marketing budget.
However, they soon spend themselves out of business because consumers
attracted to the product don’t stay to become long-term, loyal users.
The reality:
If the offering isn’t attractive, there is no point in getting more users to see it.
The Consumer Adoption Funnel demonstrates how users progress through their
experience with a new product or service.
The solution: Using marketing to attract more users won’t change how these
users behave once they arrive—marketing is only the first gate of four in the
Consumer Adoption Funnel. You can coax users into trying your product or
service, but you can’t compel them to use it long term. Stickiness (value versus
cost) must be optimized before users will increase their usage.
The reality:
Consumers don’t have your knowledge or your motivation when trying your
product.
The Consumer Bell Curve demonstrates where the bulk of users are relative to
their skill levels and willingness to proactively find value in a product.
The solution: Study your average consumer behavior and accept that it won’t
match yours. Understand that you are a power user, while most of your
consumers are not. Look for unnecessary complexities and customization
requirements or long installation processes that are probably hurting your
product’s success. Don’t add settings or preferences to your product as a way to
solve design disputes. Design for your users’ skill levels, not your skill level.
Myth 4: Consumers will find a product’s value
The problem: Most companies feel that it is best to have lots of features so that
users can navigate to and use whichever features fit their needs. These
companies are usually disappointed, as users don’t look for the features they
want. Instead, users struggle to find value and give up.
The reality:
The solution: Instead of focusing on how to get more users to your product or
trying to design more features for more segments of users, focus on removing or
hiding rarely used features and highlighting your key features and value.
The reality:
Consumers only want a few key features, and they want them to work well.
The solution: Before shipping a product, all you have is your professional
training and experience to aid you in designing a product. But once you have
built and shipped the product, you have access to a wealth of consumer usage
information that can help drive future design decisions. Use this data to tell you
where your value really is and focus on continuously improving that value.
Supply Chain Management in Retail
Supply chain and retail: The means to the end
A retail revolution is happening in the country. For global giants looking at
newer markets, India presents exciting opportunities on account of its vast
middle-class and a virtually untapped retail industry.
The Indian retail sector has seen unprecedented growth in the last few years.
The KPMG report, `Consumer Markets in India: the next big thing?, has
predicted that the organized retail sector is expected to grow at rate higher than
GDP growth in the next five years. The AT Kearney's 2006 Global Retail
Development Index positions India as a leading destination for retail
investment.
The retail boom promises to give an impetus to a host of allied sectors and the
logistics industry, as the backbone of the retail sector, stands to gain the
maximum.
In India, the logistics market is mainly thought to mean transportation. But the
major elements of logistics cost for industries include transportation,
warehousing, inventory management, courier and other valued-added services
such as packaging.
The logistics costs account for 13 per cent of GDP. The industry is currently on
an upswing and is poised for a growth of 20 per cent in the coming years.
Network critical
Industry experts opine that in India too the large retail chains will follow the
global model of outsourcing their logistics so as to better manage complex
supply chains and focus on their core business.
For the retail chains in agri-produce, efficiency of logistics is critical and can
indeed leverage the brand to a great extent.
The main asset
Retailers realize that knowing what is selling and what is not can improve the
inventory processes. Inventory is the biggest cost factor, and if not managed
well, it can also be the biggest drain. That's why retailers and their trading
partners today set store by the inventory process and its impact. Effective SCM
enables:
Averting problems:
Stores easily identify potential stock-outs and request replenishment before the
inventory drops to zero. Deciding to de-list or replace a product is easier.
Four R’s
Follow the 4 `R's of SCM — Right time, Right place, Right price, Right quantity
— to reap the advantages of:
Sustained inventory reduction by as much as 60 per cent for both the buyer
and seller.
The key players in the logistics industry are gearing up to meet the challenges
by initiating both organic and inorganic growth to leverage the retail
opportunity. Logistics firms have also started focusing on related services such
as Customs clearing and forwarding, inbound warehousing, labeling and
packaging, fleet management, order picking and inventory management.
Cold Chain
The booming retail sector has set off growth in the cold chain segment as well. It
is a highly specialized service and caters to time sensitive and perishable items.
The cold chain industry is growing at 20-25 per cent. However, there is an
urgent need to establish the necessary infrastructure for an effective cold chain.
Manufacturing - This is the step where raw materials are turned into
finished goods. Tools for determining which involves machines,
processes, and personnel should perform these tasks may be used to
provide more efficiency
Producing - Goods producing industries are primarily associated with
the production of goods. However, these sectors may also produce some
services
Delivery - It is also known as supply chain fulfillment, this step entails
getting the finished products to the dealers or end users. It takes into
account how the products will be shipped, including the means of
transportation and how products may be consolidated to cut down on
shipping expenses
MERCHANDISING OPTIMIZATION
2. The retailer chooses firm-owned, outside, regularly used and/or new supply
sources of merchandise.
3. The merchandise under consideration is evaluated through inspection,
sampling and/or description.
4. Purchase terms are set. They may have to be negotiated in their entirety or
through uniform contracts.
5. The purchase conclusion is made-manually or automatically.
6. Merchandise handling decisions are taken relating to receiving & storing,
price & inventory marking, displays, pilferage control etc.
7. Reordering decisions are made.
8. Re-evaluation of merchandising plans takes place.
• Operational assessment
• Implementation of customized Best Practices
• Customer service measurement and improvement
• Conversion rate assessment and improvement
• Analytics/metrics/benchmarking
• Labor management and scheduling solutions
• Workload / task balancing
• Functional schedules
• Procedural documentation
• Chain-wide rollout programs
BRANDING IN RETAIL
The Global Retail Scenario Large format retail businesses dominate the retail
landscape in the United States and across Europe, in terms of retail space,
categories, range, brands, and volumes. Indian retail industry cannot hope to
learn much by merely looking at the Western success stories in retail. Their
scales of operations are very huge, the profit margins that they earn are also
much higher and they operate in multiple formats like discount stores,
warehouses, supermarkets, departmental stores, hyper-markets, convenience
stores and specialty stores.. The economy and lifestyle of the West is not in line
with that of India and hence the retailing scene in India has not evolved in the
same format as the West nor can we learn valuable lessons from their style of
operations.
In retailing, the conventional wisdom used to be, that, the critical success factor
was location. But precise location no longer matters and geo-demographics is
increasingly becoming irrelevant. The leading multiple chain retailers,
superstores and malls create their own centers of gravity, attracting customers
by car, bus, train or even by plane to wherever they are located.
The growth of multiple chain retailers has been relentless for many years in the
west and this has been accompanied by the development of retail names as
brands in their own right. Discount retailer Walmart has catapulted to the top
of the Fortune 500 rankings in the U.S. with a turnover of $258 billions (2003
revenues – the basis for 2004 rankings), ahead even of oil major Exxon Mobil
and the mammoth manufacturing giant General Electric. A ruthless policy, of,
‘Always Low prices. Always.’ has brought Walmart to the top. On the day after
Thanksgiving in November 2002, Wal-Mart sales hit $1.43 billion in one single
day.
Walmart and Nordstrom in the U.S. and Sainsbury’s and Marks & Spencer in
the U.K. have grown by rapid geographic expansion in their own countries.
Specialists like Benetton of Italy and IKEA of Sweden and The Body Shop of
the UK are international and the fast food chains like McDonald’s and Pizza
Hut are everywhere. The same products are increasingly available from the
same names on every continent. Retailers worldwide have immensely benefited
from the sustained growth of the disposable income of their global consumers.
Geographic saturation
The end of the nineties has signified a turning tide of retailer power. The limit
to retail ambition is geographic saturation. There is already a fear that the U.S
is ‘over-malled’, that available shopping space exceeds customer demand for
products. The retailer logic that ‘if we build new stores they will come’, is being
belied. Many retailers have started postponing their store expansion plans. The
track record of some of their international store expansions is also not
promising.
The threat of saturation is accompanied by a new competition from the low cost
category killers. Specialist competition is eating away at the market share and
forcing down the prices and gross margins of the multiple chains. The success of
the giant killers in the toys segment – Toys R Us and in home furnishings –
Home Depot, in the are a case in point.
The newest retail format that is showing growth in the U.S., and is more
frightening for retailers than for consumers, is the Internet. The potential for
on-line shopping which is growing in the U.S. questions retailers’ investments in
more physical sites and stores and makes it imperative that they too explore the
new agenda of ‘E-retailing’ or ‘e-tailing’.
THE INDIAN RETAIL SCENE
India is the country having the most unorganized retail market. Traditionally it
is a family’s livelihood, with their shop in the front and house at the back, while
they run the retail business. More than 99% retailers function in less than 500
square feet of shopping space. Global retail consultants KSA Technopak, have
estimated that organized retailing in India is expected to touch Rs 35,000 crore
in the year 2005-06. The Indian retail sector is estimated at around Rs 900,000
crore, of which the organized sector accounts for a mere 2 per cent indicating a
huge potential market opportunity that is lying in the waiting for the consumer-
savvy organized retailer.
There is no doubt that the Indian retail scene is booming. A number of large
corporate houses — Tata’s, Raheja’s, Piramals’s, Goenka’s — have already
made their foray into this arena, with beauty and health stores, supermarkets,
self-service music stores, new- age book stores, every-day-low-price stores,
computers and peripherals stores, office equipment stores and home/building
construction stores. Every retail category has been attacked, by the organized
players today. The Indian retail scene has witnessed too many players in too
short a time, crowding several categories without looking at their core
competencies, or having a well thought out branding strategy. To illustrate, the
Indian lifestyle/fashion retail scene is already exhibiting the following
characteristics, which do not augur well for its future:
Leading retail stores like Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Ebony, Globus, and
Piramyd, offer common brands, similar ambience, and a commitment to
improved service. Where is the scope for differentiation and brand building?
Can these retailers hope that location and ambience alone will do the trick?
Merchandising muddle:
The organized new generation Indian retailers (Shoppers Stop and Westside)
have recruited senior retail persons from abroad, who have the expertise in
setting up systems and procedures, but they are going to take a long while to
tune into the psyche of the Indian consumer.
Lack of labels/suppliers:
Discounting:
Given widespread availability of the same brands, large retailers have to cope
with the phenomenon of discounts offered by the smaller retailers. Large stores
are able wrangle larger margins from most suppliers, but these margins are
retained to meet the higher operating cost. Small retailers are tempted to pass
on the lower overhead in the form of a discount to the customer to get them to
their stores. In a middle class- dominated, price-sensitive market like India,
price manipulation is a strong weapon in the arsenal of the small independent
retailer.
The large retailers themselves further dilute the strength of the retail market.
With promotions becoming the order of the day, they too have entered into
price wars against each other. ‘Up to 50% off’ sales and ‘Two for one’ price
offers have now become commonplace even at the top retail outlets across our
country. Deep price cuts may not be the answer to maintain their relevance
against the small retailers nor does it auger well for the brand building of the
store.
In recent years, it would seem that the consumer has thrown the adage ‘time is
money’ to the winds. The customer is willing to spend more time if he/she is
getting a better deal. Scarcity of time seems to be the prerogative only of a few
consumers. The crowds inside Sarvana Stores or Jayachandran textiles in
Pondy Bazaar in Chennai, drive home the point that consumers are prepared to
travel to reach stores that promise best prices. The Indian model of organized
retailing is still in a stage of evolution, and retailers need to understand the
value of retail as a brand rather than remaining as retailers selling brands.
However, the characteristics of the branding process, which are of interest to
the retailers, are still the characteristics of the traditional product brands – they
are simply extended to the intangible part of the business. Thus, the
characteristics of a branded product, are simply applied in a different space.
What are the fundamental characteristics of a brand? While a myriad of
characteristics have been catalogued by several researchers on this subject, five
characteristics deserve mention:
(1) Recognizability:
A true brand is instantly recognized and identified. The brand name passes into
every day use (Nike’s ‘Just do it’) or becomes satirized (‘Don’t be such a
Duracell’) or appropriated (‘Make a Xerox of this document’). Indian retailers
like Shoppers Stop, the RPG Group’s Food World and Music World have
already earned national recognition. Subiksha in Tamilnadu and ‘Margin Free’
supermarkets in Kerala are household names in the two states.
(3) Legitimacy:
The meaning of the brand should be obviously appropriated by the target
customer group. Legitimacy rests on authority, earned by the brand and
granted by the customers. Lessons can be learned from social organizations like
Greenpeace, Medicins sans frontiers, CRY and Helpage India. In this case,
legitimacy rests on moral authority. In retail businesses it may rest on an
emotional authority (a unique shopping experience, a store filled with warmth
and friendliness.)
(5) Proximity:
The brand building process should culminate with assuring the brand’s
proximity to the consumer. The brand’s definition gets expanded by opening
stores in a number of locations to make it convenient to the consumer.
Retail brand building
Product brands make life easier. They make it possible to recognize products,
which simplifies the decision making process. Furthermore, product brands
make the consumer a part of a group, they create a sense of belonging. But
retail brands do even more than that. These brands are visible platforms for
kindred spirits: the physical shop is a container for the entire retail formula and
therefore constitutes a large part of the retail brand. The tangible nature of
retail makes the familiar slogan ‘experiencing the brand’ most logical of all, in a
physical store.
Retail brands have gained in popularity in the past few years. Indeed, they have
a number of advantages above product brands. In the first place, they are closer
to the consumer. The physical store space offers the possibility of literally and
figuratively communicating with consumers at the moment of purchase (one-to-
one marketing). Retailers can show who they are and what they stand for
through the store formula. Moreover, in principle, retailers are neutral, because
the choice of product brand (or store brand, if present) is left to the consumers.
Retailers help consumers because they make a shrewd pre-selection and present
their product assortment in a specific manner. Once a consumer knows and
trusts a retailer and has good experiences and memories about a store, the
foundation has been laid for a long-lasting relationship that will ultimately lead
to customer loyalty.
Contrast this with a store like Food World, for example. Because of its direct
contact with the end-user, it must effectively live up to its brand reputation in
every aspect, every day. It is impossible for retailers to escape the need to
continually sustain the store brand. In a store, the entire retail organization is
revealed and the true nature of a company can be experienced. A retail store, as
said earlier, is the container that holds the entire formula. All the elements of
the formula (including the elements of the marketing mix) come together in-
store. The formula should be deliberately shaped from the standpoint of
identity (the ‘brand’ of the retail organization) with mutual coordination of the
elements being important. What might it then mean, when branding is applied
to retailing? The issue is not of retailers selling brands but branding the retail
business itself, like the grocery supermarket chain or the fashion store. A
hypermarket or department store, may offer several well-known brands, but in
today’s competitive world cannot afford to rest on its strategic product
assortment and pricing initiatives to bring in the customers. The retailer must
attempt to brand himself differently, especially when today’s product brands
are being launched through their product brand’s own shops. (Examples in the
shoe segment – Nike, Adidas and Reebok. Jeans segment – Lee and Wrangler,
Perfumes –Hugo Boss. )
A retail organization, like any other corporate company, will have to ensure
that its own brand includes the characteristics of product brands detailed
above.
Retailers need to work on three dimensions to achieve this:
( 1 ) Brand value:
The retail brand has to embody and transmit clear values to the customer. (Like
‘value for money’, ‘Luxury shopping redefined’). Some companies have
attempted to define this in their mission statements but they are often too vague
and not actionable. For example the U.K. Virgin brand has the value of
challenging conventions and the U.S. retailer Nordstrom has a built a value of
customer service. While many Indian product brands have successfully weaved
values around their brands (Hamam on ‘trust’, Godrej on ‘quality’ and TVS on
‘service’) retailers are yet to develop a consistent value across their businesses.
The view that retailer brands offer a cheaper alternative to manufacturer brand
is no longer valid. There is even scope for retailers to develop alternative types
of ‘own labels’ targeted at different consumer groups in their outlets. An
essential ingredient for success, in such cases, must be consumer-relevant added
values – not just lower prices. It is only a minority of consumers, today, who are
prepared to trade off added values for lower prices. Experienced consumers are
no longer primarily motivated by low prices.
( 3) Brand structure :
Operational levels of the retail business have to be held together to integrate the
whole brand proposal. At this level, marketing, human resources, distribution,
logistics, administration and sales have to work towards a common brand value
that has to be communicated to the consumer. The retail brand’s messages must
be weaved into the every day experiences that the consumer has with the retail
brand.
Brand building constitutes a way in which the main value of the retail store
shifts to what has been traditionally called an intangible.
Indian Retailing is coming of age and needs to have a clear brand proposition to
offer the discerning Indian consumer. There is no doubt that the retail business
is gravitating from high street towards destination shopping (mall development)
with an estimated 10million square feet of mall space expected to hit the metros
and mini-metros across the country this year.
The critical lesson for mall developers is, to invest some quality effort in
understanding the shopping-needs of customers in their targeted areas, and
then build a carefully planned portfolio of retail options that can meet the needs
of these targeted customers. Mall developers also have to create distinctive
(brand) identities for their specific malls.
It is equally important for the would-be retailer tenants, to realize that merely
moving into a mall does not build their brand or guarantee business for them.
They have to work as hard to draw consumers to their own stores once the
latter have entered the mall, and then have the right value proposition for them,
to get them converted into customers, and then to become repeat customers.
Building a differentiating brand identity would work for both the mall owner
and the mall retailer.
We are also seeing organized Indian retailing in several businesses that speaks
volumes of the staggering potential for the expansion of this sunrise sector in
our country. But here again, the early initiatives in the sectors illustrated below
seem to rely more on novelty and excitement of newer ambiences rather than
truly investing in brand building .
Lifestyle retailing :
Chennai has witnessed a manifold increase in the total retail space devoted to
non-grocery or lifestyle retail. The four major lifestyle retailers — LifeStyle,
Westside, Shoppers' Stop, and Globus — alone account for a little over 200,000
square feet of retail space. Add to that the retail space of the traditional apparel
retailers such as Nalli's and Kumarans and the recent entrants such as Pothy's,
R.M.K.V and Chennai Silks and that of the scores of multi-brand outlets, the
figure shoots up. The reasonable real estate prices, overall lower cost of
operations and accessibility to consumers vis-à-vis other metros, have spurned
the growth of organized retail at Chennai. But, on the brand building front, the
story is no different. A retail analyst has already observed that Chennai is over-
retailed in the lifestyle segment, with little differentiation among the players.
There is no doubt that the Indian retail shopping experience has been enhanced
by giant superstores and shopping malls across our country. They should
however learn quickly to build the retail brand directly and not look to factors
like prime location, value pricing or product assortment to build their
businesses. Indian retailers, to build a strong retail brand presence, can use the
following strategies.
Successful retailing has always been said to be, about getting the nitty-gritty
right of merchandising, forecasting, the supply chain, training and recruitment
of high quality personnel and category management. Building retail brands that
offer value will, in future, overshadow all these areas, and emerge as the
dominant reason for the success of the organized Indian retailer. Indian
retailers should also understand that the retail experience has become a popular
leisure activity and they are vulnerable to any new competition for customers’
entertainment. Indian retailers must build their brands with images that seek to
entertain and involve their customers. It is the quality and value of the retail
brands that they have sought to establish that will determine the loyalty of the
retail shopper in future.
AN OVERVIEW OF INDIAN LEATHER INDUSTRY
Anti-dumping duties slammed on China and Vietnam recently has given India
an opportunity to enter high-volume, low-value footwear market, informed the
Minister.
To reach the U.S. market India would require to expand its capacity, said Union
Minister for Communications and Information Technology Dayanidhi Maran,
who inaugurated the fair.
State governments should encourage the industry as the U.K. market may
require 10,000 pairs of shoes per order the U.S. on the other hand would
require production of 100,000 to 200,000 pairs.
For India to compete with China in the U.S. footwear market, logistics needed
to be improved and Shipping Ministry would require to start a direct container
shipping link from Chennai port to the U.S. and Europe which presently gets
routed through Colombo or Singapore.
It was also important to generate half a million new jobs in leather sector while
attempting to reach leather exports target of $7 billion by 2011, Ramesh said.
Council for Leather Exports' (CLE) Rs 7 crore project being carried out in
Kancheepuram district was lauded by Ramesh.
CLE should also establish such centres in Tamil Nadu, Uttar Pradesh, West
Bengal, Andhra Pradesh and Punjab, besides focusing on Bihar and Assam, he
said.
Indian leather industry poised to double its global share by
2010
Chennai, Feb.3 (ANI): Indian leather exports is poised to double its global
market share by 2010, an industry representative said during the 22nd India
International Leather Fair here on Saturday.
India currently has a share of 2.51 percent in the 97.606 dollars billion global
leather market.
"We have a big plan. Today, the industry has exports of about three billion
dollars and, we have a plan to increase it to seven billion dollars in the next four
to five years. Today the share of leather industry in the world leather trade is
about 2.5 percent, and when we will have seven billion dollars worth of export,
the share will go up to five percent," said, Mukhtar-ul Amin, the Chairman of
the Council of Leather Exporters.
India however still has a long way to go to match its rival China, which
dominates the global leather market with over 20 per cent share.
Industry representatives however, say the country needs to boost its animal
husbandry to match China's capability.
"We do not have any organized farming in India, like we have in England,
Holland or ay European country we got to have animal farming. America and
Brazil are biggest meat exporters only because of animal farming. We have to
take care of animal husbandry the quality of animal has to be improved," said
Anil K Sodhi, a leather exporter.
They are hopeful of benefiting from India's growing retail sector to boost its
domestic market especially in footwear.
The four-day annual leather fair organized here, was an attempt to showcase
India's technological advancement in the field.
"From the manufacturing point of view I think India has a very much advanced
skills and technology and is able to compete in the world market with its
finished goods," said, Christopher Breuninger, a German exporter showcasing
his products at the fair.
The United States, single largest buyer of Indian leather goods, accounts for 18
percent of the country's leather exports.
The huge size of the Indian market, the easy availability of skilled labour, the
abundance of high quality raw material and a strategic location have attracted
various international players in the leather industry.
Indian leather, which is among the top eight foreign exchange earners, employs
around 2.5 million people, 30 percent of whom are women. (ANI).
Bhattacharjee, sharing the dais with the visiting Italian Prime Minister,
Romano Prodi, said The regional leather industry is a major partner for Indian
leather goods production and the leather complex (at Bantola) can benefit
greatly through Italian expertise.
Besides leather and food processing, Italian businesses are exploring sectors of
mutual interest too.
Leather Exports' vision map for 2010-2011 by Council for Leather Exports
(CLE) chairman Mukhtarhul Amin.
1. The road map of CLE for increasing the exports from $ 3bn to $ 7bn
Two Tanning clusters are planned for increasing the tanning capacity. One to
be implemented by the Government of Andhra Pradesh near Nellore is yet to
take off. Once the issues concerning the water sources is sorted out, a tanning
park in about 300 acres of land would be developed by ILFS for the government
of Andhra Pradesh. With regard to the another park, we would discuss and
decide the location.
4. Special economic zones for production
The Council for Leather Exports has identified USA as a focus market for
Footwear. CLE has also identified Scandinavian countries as other focus
countries.
6. Targeting big global brands and top companies and aggressively going after
them to make an investment in India Council is planning to attract investments
from some of the major producers in the east and west. Some of the major
footwear manufacturers from China are already planning to invest in India. We
would in the next two or three years would like to have investments from some
of the western European countries as the leather industry there is increasingly
facing problems due to labor cost. In this regard, Council would formulate
strategy for presenting the country’s credentials as an investing destination.
8. Shift of focus from men's shoes to women and children Of late there is
considerable shift towards ladies shoes from the traditional way of making more
men’s shoes. In the year 1998-99, men: ladies used to be 71 : 29 and the same in
the year 2005-06 was 56 : 44. This clearly indicated the shift in favor of ladies
shoes to men’s shoes.
10. Changes in fashion requirements for export market Fashion keeps changing
every season. For ladies wears the fashion changes every season and for men’s
wears the fashion changes a bit slower. Therefore, for the makers of the ladies
fashions, they need to keep in tune with the changing fashions more frequently
than the others.
Europeans turn to Indian leather as China gets tough
Interest about Indian leather goods is increasingly been shown by Italy, which
as the world leader in leather products is becoming more active in stitching up
joint manufacturing and sourcing ties with India.
Reflecting Italy’s interest in India as one of the sourcing hubs for leather goods,
a 10-member consortium of buyers from Italian Leather Goods Manufacturing
Association (ILGMA) is coming to Kolkata, a key leather processing centre,
between February 23-25, to participate in a leather fair.
The consortium represents around 100 retail outlets in Italy. The exhibition is
part of an annual event organised by Indian Leather Products Association
(ILPA), in association with Indian Trade Promotion Organisation (ITPO) and
Council of Leather Exports (CLE).
Apart from Italy, 35 buyers from Spain, Germany, the UK, the US and a couple
of Latin American countries will also participate in the fair. Incidentally, a
separate team of Italian buyers also visited another leather hub, Chennai,
between January 31 and February 2 to forge similar alliances.
“These Italian companies control about 100 retail leather goods outlets in their
country, their participation in the fair is expected to generate export orders for
West Bengal based leather goods units,” said Yogesh Gupta, chairman of trade
development subcommittee under ILPA.
Buyers are essentially looking at sourcing high quality but low volume leather
accessories like bags, wallets and laptop cases, mobile phone covers. “China
specialises in low cost, high volume output, which is completely reverse in case
of India. This is yet another factor that seems to be working in our favour,” he
added.
ILPA is counting heavily on ILGMA participation in the fair because Italy as
the largest manufacturing hub of leather goods in Europe is more interested to
source leather goods from India in the wake of uncertainties of getting steady
supply of such goods from China owing to the recent shut-down of several
tanneries in that country, said Paresh Rajda, former president of ILPA.
Apart from facilitating a buyers-sellers meet in the fair, ILPA is also organising
a series of workshops to make Indian producers aware about country-specific
environmental laws, security measures in packaging and social auditing.
West Bengal, with exports of Rs 1,800 crore, is the largest exporter of leather
goods in the country. With this, the state contributes more than 60% of the
country’s leather exports.
Indian leather goods as a whole for its better quality and designs are fast
improving acceptability in the global market. Price-wise, goods are positioned
in the middle-segment of the market, which is higher than low quality Chinese
goods, but lower than internationally acclaimed global brands.
ratna.ganguli@timesgroup.com
The Indian leather industry comprises the following key sub-sectors - tanning
and finishing, footwear, footwear components, leather garments and leather
goods and accessories. A large part (nearly 60-65 per cent) of the production is
done by the small/cottage sector.
Hides and skins are the basic raw materials for the leather industry, which
originate from the source of livestock. There was an upsurge in the number of
bovine animals and goats and kids during 1990-2005, while population of sheep
and lambs was on a decline. Developing countries accounted for around 78% of
the total population of bovine animals and 93% of world population of goats
and kids in 2005. World bovine animals population stood at 1,529 million heads
in 2005. India had the largest number of bovine animals (283 million heads)
with a share of 19% followed by Brazil (13%), China (9%) and USA (6%).
World sheep and lambs population stood at 1,079 million heads in 2005. With a
total population of 170 million heads, China had a share of 16% in the world
sheep and lambs population. India (6%) lagged behind at third position, with a
population of 62 million heads. World goats and kids population stood at 807
million heads in 2005. China has the highest population of goats and kids, which
stood at 195 million heads in 2005. Although in 1990, India had the highest
population of goats and kids (21% of the total), it was overtaken by China in
1995 and the gap between the two countries has been widening.
World Raw Hides and Skins Production
World production of raw hides and skins was nearly 7 million metric tonnes, of
which production of bovine hides and skins alone accounted for 90% in 2004.
Developing countries are the major producers of raw hides and skins. China
played a significant role in turning developing countries as the major source of
global imports of raw hides and skins.
World Leather Exports
World leather exports grew moderately, by a CAGR of 7.3%, from US$ 46
billion in 2000 to US$ 61 billion in 2004. World leather exports can be
categorised in to raw hides and skins (40%), leather articles (49%) and furskins
(11%).China, Hong Kong, Italy, USA and France are major exporters of leather
in the world. World leather articles exports increased by a CAGR of 8.06%,
from US$ 22 billion in 2000 to US$ 30 billion in 2004. China constitutes 34% of
the total leather articles exports. Hong Kong (17%), Italy (11%) and France
(9%) are other major exporters. India’s exports of leather articles have
stabilized around US$ 1,033 million in 2004.
India’s major export markets for leather handbags are USA, Germany, UK and
Spain. In UK and Spain, Italy is the top exporting country of leather handbags.
However, China has overtaken Italy and emerged as major exporter in markets
like USA, Canada, Hong Kong and Russia. India has lot of potential in these
markets, as it has unique advantage of economies of scale and capability of
producing niche products. Footwear is a critical segment for the Indian leather
industry as this is expected to be the engine of growth for the Indian leather
sector. Currently, the trend in export of Indian footwear has been encouraging;
however the trend for footwear components exports has been declining. India’s
exports of footwear components have dropped from US$ 238 million in 2000-01
to US$ 164 million in 2004-05. Top importers of leather footwear uppers in the
world are China, United Kingdom and Canada. World leather garments
exports have increased over the years. USA, Germany and Japan were the
largest importers of leather garments in the world in 2004. India was placed
among the top three exporting countries of leather garments in these markets.
Further, India is the largest sourcing partner of leather garments to Spain and
Italy, which are the major markets for Indian leather
garments. India’s other major export markets are Germany, USA and France.
But, India must be cautious of China, as its unit price of leather garments is
cheaper than that of India.
Major Issues Affecting the Sector
The issues that are hindering the export growth of the Indian leather industry
are as follows:
Environmental Issues
The leather industry is traditionally considered as a polluting industry in the
tanning and finishing stages of the production chain. Global standards set by
importing countries affect the entry and increase the cost of market access to
products of developing countries. Usage of many chemicals has been banned by
various countries. The product specifications for leather are constantly under
review, leading to greater stringency.
Impact of PETA
Campaigns by NGOs, such as People for Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA),
related to cruelty against animals have led to boycott of Indian leather products
by many foreign companies.
Cost Escalation
Leather exporters have to meet domestic as well international environmental
norms. Testing and certification requirements add to the costs of leather
manufacturers. However, it is observed that small supplier firms may not be
able to comply with stringent environmental standards. High costs of
compliance impose real economic costs on firms.
Chinese Competition
Chinese leather industry ranks top on the raw material resources, product yield
and import and export trade in the world. China is one of the major
competitors to India’s leather sector as it has the capability to produce large
volume at low price. Chinese leather exports have increased by three-fold after
its entry into WTO.
Competitive Advantages
The leather industry can benefit from several characteristics of the Indian
market and the corresponding advantages they offer.
Some of these advantages are:
India is the largest livestock holding country with 21 per cent of the large
animals and 11 per cent of small animals in the world. The large population of
cattle, buffaloes, goat and sheep that the country possesses ensures that India
has ten per cent of the world’s raw material base. In addition, some of the
leather available in India is premium quality and much sought after.
India has institutions that support the leather industry in specific areas such as
product development, design and R&D. These institutions enable capability
building in the industry and help it become globally competitive.
• Product development/ design
India has a large and growing consuming class (with an annual income of US$
449 or above), that constitutes the largest segment of the population today. This
segment is estimated to constitute nearly 90 million households by 2006-07, up
from just 32.5 million households in 1997-98 – a CAGR of over 12 per cent.
Coupled with relatively lower penetration levels - penetration levels for
footwear has been estimated to be about 60 per cent – this represents a large
and growing market for leather goods.
Government Regulation & Support
The Government of India has announced various initiatives to make the leather
industry more competitive. Key policy initiatives include:
• De-licensing of integrated tanneries that convert raw hides and skins into
finished leather.
• Several leather goods have been de-reserved from the Small Scale sector.
• Free import of raw hides & skins, semi-finished and finished leather.
• Concessional duty on imported machinery and chemicals.
• Free export of raw hides & skins, semi-finished and finished leather and
leather products.
• Policies to facilitate modernisation / upgradation: In June 2005 the
government initiated a US$ 64 million ‘modernising scheme’ called the
‘Integrated Leather Development Programme’, whereby all leather
tanning and product units will be eligible for modernisation assistance.
The assistance will be to the extent of 30 per cent of project cost for SSI
units and 20 per cent for non-SSI units, subject to a ceiling of US$ 110
thousand per unit.
• Setting up of leather parks: An outlay of US$ 24.5 million for setting up
five leather parks — two in Chennai and one each in Nellore, Agra and
Kolkata. 12 The Council for Leather Exports has estimated that this
scheme will generate a total investment of US$ 267 million in about three
years.
• Establishment of ‘design centres’ at individual manufacturing units, to
facilitate improvement in design capabilities: Under this scheme, 25 per
cent of the project cost is provided to the units under the market access
initiative scheme of the Ministry of Commerce and Industry. Several
individual units have come forward to establish their own design centres.
Licensing policy
After the dereservation of 11 items in the leather sector, which include semi-
finished hides and skins, leather shoes, leather washers and laces, moulded
rubber soles and heels for footwear, flexible polyurethane foam, polyurethane
shoe soles, shoe-tacks & eyelets and leather pickers and other leather
accessories for textile industry, vide Notification No. SO 603(E) dated 29 June,
2001; no Industrial Licence is required to manufacture of most of the items of
the leather industry. The location of industrial projects will, however, be subject
to central or state environmental laws or regulations including local zoning and
land use laws and regulations. Industrial undertakings desiring to set up
industrial undertakings for manufacture of these items have to only file an
Industrial Entrepreneurs’ Memorandum (IEM), in the prescribed format, with
requisite fees to Secretariat for Industrial Assistance in the Department of
Industrial Policy & Promotion, Government of India, Udyog Bhawan, New
Delhi-110011. Some of the items of the leather industry, viz. leather shoe uppers
(closed), leather sandals and chappals, leather garments, industrial leather
gloves, leather suitcase and travel goods, leather purses and hand bag, fancy
leather goods and novelty items, watch straps and leather straps of all types are
still reserved for exclusive manufacture by the small scale sector. Small scale
sector units are defined in terms of investment in plant and machinery. Non-
small scale units can manufacture these items after obtaining industrial licence,
which is granted subject to an export obligation of 50 per cent of the production
each year.
Key Domestic & Foreign Players
Superhouse Leathers
Superhouse Leathers Ltd. was incorporated in 1980 by a private Indian party to
produce shoe uppers. The company has plants at Jaimau (Kanpur Dehat, Uttar
Pradesh) producing leather goods, at Kanpur (Uttar Pradesh); shoe uppers, at
Noida (Ghaziabad, Uttar Pradesh); leather and textile garments, at Sikandra
(Agra, Uttar Pradesh); shoes at Unnao (Uttar Pradesh) shoes and sole leather,
at Unnao (2 plants; in Uttar Pradesh) producing chrome leather and chrome
leather (skins). Revenue for the year 2004-05 was US$ 45 million. Mirza
International Mirza Tanners Ltd. was incorporated in 1979 by the Mirza
Tanners Group to produce leather shoes. The company has plants at Juhi,
Kanpur Nagar (in Uttar Pradesh), for manufacturing shoe uppers and shoes; at
Magarwara, Unnao (Uttar Pradesh) for bags, finished leather, shoe uppers and
shoes; at Noida, Ghaziabad, in Uttar Pradesh, which produces shoe uppers and
shoes and another at Shahjani, Unnao (Uttar Pradesh) which produces bags,
finished leather, shoe uppers and shoes. Its revenue for the year 2004-05 stood
at US$ 57 million.
Future outlook
India has distinct advantages in the leather industry. These are primarily low
costs, widely available raw material and well-developed quality and research
and development facilities. These have enabled India to ecome a significant
player in the world leather market, with exports growing at 8 per cent CAGR.
Multinational companies in this sector are increasingly looking at India and
many of them have also entered India in different ways. For example:
• The Forward group has entered into a joint venture with Conceria
Virginia Italy (CVI), a 10-year-old Italian tannery specialising in
leathers for shoes and leather goods; the joint venture has set up a six
million sq. ft state of- theart leather manufacturing facility in Chennai.
With the government keen to support the industry to modernise and grow and
double exports by 2010, the outlook for the leather industry in India is quite
positive.
Strategies for Indian Leather Sector
The Indian leather industry is targeting over US$ 5 billion exports by 2010 and
is expected to add about additional 1 million direct and indirect jobs during this
period. At present, the industry employs 2.5 million people directly and
indirectly.
Government Support
Technology upgradation and modernization of the entire leather value chain
should be given priority. Recently, the Government has approved Rs. 290 crores
for modernisation and technology upgradation programme.
New Markets
Diversification of export markets is another important strategy for Indian
leather industry. Consolidation in new markets such as Croatia, Slovakia and
Serbia would sustain the export growth momentum for the Indian leather
industry. Imports of leather articles by these countries have increased in the
range of 20-30% in a period of five years.
New Trends
The industry needs to keep itself abreast with latest fashion trends in the sector.
It is observed that Italian buyers pay attention not only to the quality of the
leather products but also to the accessories used in the garments. It is
imperative that adequate care is taken about the packing material.
Enabling Infrastructure
The development of the Calcutta Leather Complex is a positive sign as all
amenities are available at one place. Such exclusive leather complexes could be
developed in other major production centers. Improvements in efficiency of
ports, internal transport, customs procedures and supply chain management
are necessary for augmenting the productivity and exports in this sector.
Training Facilities
Training programmes should enable the industry to foresee and adapt to
changing trends and technology. It is imperative that the staff is skilled and well
qualified to train the students. Further, programmes need to be conducted to
make Indian exporters aware of different standards and requirements in the
global market to ensure that Indian exports do not get rejected due to
environmental norms.
The contents of the census are based on information available with Export-Import Bank of
India and primary desk research through published information of various agencies. Due
care has been taken to ensure that the information provided in the publication is correct.
CONTRIBUTION OF INDIAN STATES IN
INDIAN LEATHER INDUSTRY
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES in TAMIL NADU
KARNATAKA
Karnataka is keen to promote itself as the destination for domestic and foreign
investment to catalyse industrial growth. The State Policy aims to achieve a
consistent economic growth rate of 8-9 per cent over the next decade. Policy
makers propose to create employment opportunities through industrial growth
in the state and several sectors have been identified as thrust areas. The state
offers incentives such as tax exemptions for investment in these sectors. These
sectors are electronics, telecommunication, informatics, precision tooling and
tool room industries, readymade garments including leather garments
(excluding leather tanning), units manufacturing pollution control and effluent
treatment plants, equipment and appliances and biotechnology.
MADHYA PRADESH
UTTAR PRADESH
Kanpur, Ghaziabad and Lucknow have an established traditional industry. The
large livestock population allowed the leather industry to flourish in the state.
Kanpur and Agra emerged as the hubs for leather goods in the country. Uttar
Pradesh has a well-developed leather industry. The state has one of the largest
livestock populations in the country, which provides a strong raw material base
required for the industry. The number of leather and leather products
industries in the state are to the tune of 11,500, of which Kanpur and Agra are
the two famous
production centres. Agra is the biggest centre for shoe manufacturing in the
country. Kanpur is the sole producer of saddlery products. It is a prominent
centre for leather processing. Kanpur tanneries specialise in processing hides
into heavy leather (sole, harness and industrial leather). Uttar Pradesh plans to
develop a special economic zone at Kanpur to cater to the leather goods
industry. In addition to traditional centres for leather and leather products in
the state, Noida has emerged as a major centre especially for leather footwear
and leather garments.
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES
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