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Special Report Mumbai Diamond a su
Market Report ondhmto as ers
ame nce listustom
Predicting Higher
Diamond Prices What’s hot; what’s available i
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Next Diwali & how much it costs
A yo
Contents
DEcember magazine india retail
Editorial Department
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Vinod Kuriyan
06 Mumbai Diamond Market Report
Strong Dollar, Financial Upheavals Damp Trading Editors Edahn Golan, Danielle Max
In Mumbai IDEX ONLINE RESEARCH Ken Gassman
INTERNATIONAL CORRESPONDENTS
Tamar Katzav, Whitney Hepp
10 Special Report ADMINISTRATION & MARKETING
Predicting Higher Diamond Prices Next Diwali Managing Director Yaron Barzilay
Marketing Manager Kuldip Bedi
SALES MANAGERS
Anish Kuriakose, Osnat Davidov, Tali Kozik, Yaron Barzilay
11 Diamond Retail Benchmark PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION Helena Dorsht, Vera Podolny
A diamond price list to assure your customers ACCOUNT MANAGER Shuly Dori
ART DEPARTMENT
18 Cover Story GRAPHIC DESIGNERS
Boris Mandelis (Red Designer Studio)
Can You Assure Your Customer About The Ilana Akselrod (Red Designer Studio)
Diamond? She’s Sure About the Gold Printed by SAP Printers, Lower Parel, Mumbai 400 013
IDEX BELGIUM
74 LANGE HERENTALSESTRAAT, 2018 ANTWERP, BELGIUM
30 GIA Outreach TEL: +32-3-2341157, FAX: +32-3-2342463
Diamond Treatments IDEX HONG KONG
TEL: +852-28400514, FAX: +852-28400652
12 f o'k "s k f jik Vs Z on application to the editor. All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or
transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written
vkxke h f noky h ij Mk;e.M d h d herk s a e s a permission of the Copyright owner.
o ` f ) d h l a H kkouk Published by Yaron Barzilay for IDEX Online S.A
22 vkoj.k dFkk
Mk;e.M m|k x
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ISSN 0334-6838
IDEX ONLINE 2003 IDEX ONLINE S.A.
B
elief in the intangible requires a lot of work. To It is to the Indian jewellery retail industry’s credit that it
maintain that belief, the believer has to know recognizes this danger and is willing to take immediate
that his or her belief is shared by others and corrective action. But it is faced with a daunting task. It
that there is no variance in this shared belief. Without needs to quickly and collectively institute a nationwide
this certainty, without the assured support of one’s peers system of ensuring that both the assessment and the
in endorsing and participating in the same belief, one perceived value of the diamonds it sells is based on
stands alone and in danger of ridicule. No one wants common systems that will return the same results
to stand alone and no one wants to be ridiculed. anywhere in the country. The grading of diamonds
and the way they are priced need to be standardized
Diamonds are essentially a belief system. Their value is on a common platform. This is far more easily said
in the eye of the beholder and this value is maintained than done and the pitfalls are many.
because enough people around the world perceive that
value as something worth holding. In today’s competitive The very first is the reality that no matter how hard one
world, there are a myriad other luxury products that tries, not everyone can be convinced to make the necessary
all offer the consumer some intangible value -- an change. Which then throws up the first hurdle. Won’t the
experience, the approval of others, some social mark willing adopter of a nationwide system be at a disadvantage
that sets them apart or even a neighbour’s envy. All of in his own market if his nearest rival refuses to accept the
these products carry with them the promise that the system and continues to his own arbitrary rules?
stated attributed, whatever it is, will be delivered without
fail. And all of them make good on that delivery. The answer is yes, in the short term, adopting a standard
grading and pricing system might be a disadvantage
Apart from their symbolism in the relationship between when faced with competition that doesn’t adhere to
men and women, diamonds offer their owners the the same rules. But in the long term, adopting and
perception of great beauty and very importantly, the adhering to standardization is a clear advantage. This
perception of great value. All of these attributes require is borne out by the “one gold price” policy adopted
universal acceptance in order to even exist. Universal by the vast majority of retailers under the umbrella of
acceptance of these attributes is in turn based on the All India Gems & Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF).
widespread and unvarying adherence to a specified Those who have refused to abide by the one-price norm
set of rules in assessing value. Use different rules and have, after enjoying a short advantage, only succeeded
you destroy the attributes themselves because they no in shrinking their own profit margins.
longer have universal acceptance.
So our exhortation is, go for it! Whatever the short-
Diamonds in India are today teetering on the edge of term problems, you’ll be a winner in the end. And if
a dangerous precipice because in different parts of we don’t adopt standardization as an industry, we all
the country, they are assessed and valued differently. stand to lose a great deal more. ■
This is causing a great deal of consumer angst and
poses the poses the imminent threat of the diamond’s
attributes being rejected altogether because they are Vinod Kuriyan
not universally accepted. Editor
IDEX Magazine – India Retail | NO 01: EDITOR 3
Mumbai
Diamond MARKET REPORT
T
he Mumbai diamond market is experiencing resistance from both domestic and international
a slowdown just before Diwali due a buyers, thus stalling transactions.
combination of factors. A prime reason is
the rupee, that has strengthened a great deal against Additionally, the recent bank defaults by some big
the US dollar. Manufacturers who bought rough players have resulted in raids by the tax authorities
some weeks ago, did so when it took over Rs.46 to in the Opera House diamond district, knocking a
buy a single greenback. Today, the dollar is trading lot of momentum out of usual trading. As if this
at just over Rs.44. What this means is that in dollar weren’t enough, there have also been several failures
terms, the same goods fetch manufacturers, who among smaller operators and together with the raids,
have converted rupees to dollars to buy rough and they have damped trading all round.
now want value addition that adds up to a decent
margin in rupee terms, so much less, that in some There is disappointment that the end stretch of
categories, margins would be completely wiped the run-up to Diwali has ended so disappointingly,
out unless polished selling prices were pushed up. particularly as the period from September to mid
Their attempts to do so have been met with strong October had been strong. ■
▲ -0.01 (-2 ) Very good demand for SI+ goods. Shortages & prices are likely to increase. Prices
Good demand for lower piqué goods.Very hot may go up by 2%-3%.
category overall.
▲ -0.02 (+2-6.5) Very good demand for SI+ goods. Shortages & prices are on the rise.Prices may
Good demand for lower piqué goods. Demand go up by 2%-3%..
for +4 sieve is improving.
▲ 0.03-0.07 Good demand for lower piqué & SI+ goods.+8 Has been the hottest category in the recent
(+6.5-11) sieve is the most wanted sieve, though the past. Some signs of prices softening in the near
focus is now shifting to -8 sieve.. future.
▲ 0.08-0.14 (+11-14) Good demand for piqué & SI1+ goods. Activity will remain stable.
▲ 0.15-0.17 Good demand for piqué & SI1+ goods. Activity will remain stable, with shortages of
(+14-15.5) goods.
▲ 0.18-0.22 (1/5) Fair demand for SI1+ goods. Overall, low activity will be seen in this
category.
▲ 0.23-0.29 (1/4) Good demand for VS+ & piqué goods. Due to shortages, price for VS+ goods may go
Demand for VS+ goods mainly for domestic up by 1%-2%.
market.
▲ 0.30 (1/3) Good demand for VS+ & piqué goods. Demand & prices will remain stable.
Demand for VS+ goods mainly for domestic
market. G-J colours in greater demand.
▲ 0.40 (3/8) Good demand for VS+/G-J col. Demand & prices will remain stable.+0.45 ct.
Demand for this category is mainly for the will be difficult to find.
domestic market.
▲ 0.50 (1/2) Good demand for I2+/G-J col. Overall, every Demand & prices will remain stable. Better
clarity in good demand. demand seen for D&F colours.
▲ 0.75 (3/4) Good demand for I1/I2 & VVV/VS clarity.+0.80 Demand for +0.90 ct. expected to increase as
ct. In greater demand. an alternative to 1 carat.
▲ 1.00 (4/4) Overall very good activity across the board. Severe shortages will be seen for I-L colours as
Shortages seen in H & lower colours. northern market is heavily buying these colours
only.
▲ +3.00 Some demand for VVS/VS H-K colours. Demand Demand & activity will depend upon asking
for VS/J-K colours increasing in +5 carat sizes. prices. Higher asking prices may see lower
activity overall.
W
hat will diamond prices be during Diwali to by the fact that the diamond polishing factories in
2011? The diamond and jewellery centres like Surat have not been able to come back up
retailing industries’ overwhelming to full production capacity because the labour that
answer to that question has been “higher”. One left during the recession, has not come back even to
diamond dealer, who requested anonymity, this day. With more likely to walk away from the
noted that higher prices were widely industry, production shortages are only likely
expected for a variety of reasons. First, to get worse.
he said, despite the many publicly
voiced fears of a double-dip recession “The only way this can be remedied,”
in the US, the industry doesn’t this diamond dealer noted, “is if the
really see any major threat to the diamond industry pays its workers
fragile recovery of the American more. And the only way they can
EMERALD JEWEL
economy. This doesn’t mean INDUSTRIES pay their workers more is if either
they expect any growth out of rough prices go down or polished
the US market, but rather that prices go up.” Both of these options,
things will remain stable, with the diamond dealer notes, are tough
no drop from current levels of asks in the current market and so he
demand. This status quo, coupled thinks the result will be a combination
with strong growth in eastern markets, of the two. A limited reduction in polished
particularly China and India’s own domestic prices and a small increase in polished prices.
market, means almost certainly that diamond
prices will be higher by Diwali 2011. Explaining this, he notes that the mining
companies are going to strongly resist going
Another factor that many other diamond dealers down with rough prices, but will probably have
have noted, is that the current shortfalls in diamond to do so to some extent as they will face a sharp
production are likely to be exacerbated as workers fade in demand if cutting centres like India don’t
migrate away from the diamond polishing industry see current prices as being viable. Given the fragile
to agriculture and agriculture-based industries. nature of the recovery in the US market and the
This is because the diamond industry is no longer lack of comparable purchasing power in the growth
the top-paying among comparable industries that markets like India and China, raising polished prices
employed untrained labour and agriculture, with a too is a difficult proposition. However, continued
good monsoon and surging consumer demand, is able growth in the Indian and Chinese consuming markets
to pay comparable or even better prices. Once these coupled with a continued but slow recovery in the
workers, leave, industry watchers note, they never US, will probably allow a small rise in polished prices,
come back to polishing diamonds. This is testified he notes.
Ravinath Mohandas of V.N.M. Jewel Crafts in Srinivasan thinks that by Diwali 2011, diamond prices
Kochi thinks that economic conditions will be in India will be at least 5 percent higher than they
the determining factor for diamond prices in the were during the festival this year.
medium term. “People are, in a small way, turning
to diamonds. Diamond sales won’t match those of Suresh V.N., diamond manager for the Joyalukkas
gold as long as gold prices stay high. However, if group, thinks diamond prices in India will go up due
there is a crash in the price of gold but the economic to the country’s fast-paced growth. “While a weak
conditions are good, diamonds will sell even if dollar against the rupee will affect rough diamond
their prices are higher.” He observes, however, prices,” he says, “the appreciation of the rupee will
that a consumer perception that diamonds aren’t give Indians greater purchasing power and Indian
worth higher prices could be a real damper to any consumers will be able to take a 30 percent rise in
significant price appreciation. This perception could diamond prices. So we are expecting this industry
come about because there is a real chance that other to outperform expectations in the near future.” ■
E 145719 130380 111207 99703 92033 72860 61355 57521 46017 34512 23008 E 167502 149870 127830 114607 105791 83751 70527 66119 52895 39672 26448
F 138050 126546 103537 92033 84364 69025 57521 53686 42182 30678 23008 F 158686 145462 119015 105791 96975 79343 66119 61711 48487 35264 26448
G 126546 111207 95868 84364 72860 61355 53686 49851 38347 30678 19174 G 145462 127830 110199 96975 83751 70527 61711 57303 44079 35264 22040
H 111207 99703 88198 76694 65190 57521 49851 46017 34512 26843 19174 H 127830 114607 101383 88159 74935 66119 57303 52895 39672 30856 22040
I 92033 80529 76694 69025 57521 53686 46017 42182 34512 26843 19174 I 105791 92567 88159 79343 66119 61711 52895 48487 39672 30856 22040
J 69025 65190 61355 53686 49851 46017 42182 38347 30678 26843 15339 J 79343 74935 70527 61711 57303 52895 48487 44079 35264 30856 17632
K 61355 57521 53686 46017 42182 38347 34512 34512 30678 23008 15339 K 70527 66119 61711 52895 48487 44079 39672 39672 35264 26448 17632
L 49851 46017 46017 42182 42182 38347 34512 26843 23008 19174 11504 L 57303 52895 52895 48487 48487 44079 39672 30856 26448 22040 13224
M 42182 42182 38347 34512 34512 30678 26843 23008 19174 15339 11504 M 48487 48487 44079 39672 39672 35264 30856 26448 22040 17632 13224
N 38347 34512 30678 26843 26843 23008 19174 19174 15339 11504 11504 N 44079 39672 35264 30856 30856 26448 22040 22040 17632 13224 13224
IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3 IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3
D 241053 198199 171416 149989 139275 107135 91065 80351 69638 53567 37497 D 279432 236442 204200 182705 150463 118221 107474 96726 75232 59111 42989
E 203556 182129 155346 139275 128562 101778 85708 80351 64281 48211 32140 E 236442 209574 182705 171958 145089 112847 96726 91353 69858 53737 37616
F 192843 176772 144632 128562 117848 96421 80351 74994 58924 42854 32140 F 225695 204200 177332 161211 134342 107474 91353 85979 69858 53737 37616
G 176772 155346 133919 117848 101778 85708 74994 69638 53567 42854 26784 G 204200 177332 155837 139716 118221 102100 85979 80605 64484 48363 32242
H 155346 139275 123205 107135 91065 80351 69638 64281 48211 37497 26784 H 182705 161211 139716 123595 107474 96726 80605 75232 59111 48363 32242
I 128562 112492 107135 96421 80351 74994 64281 58924 48211 37497 26784 I 155837 134342 123595 107474 96726 85979 75232 69858 53737 42989 32242
J 96421 91065 85708 74994 69638 64281 58924 53567 42854 37497 21427 J 123595 112847 107474 91353 80605 75232 69858 64484 48363 42989 26868
K 85708 80351 74994 64281 58924 53567 48211 48211 42854 32140 21427 K 112847 102100 96726 80605 75232 64484 59111 53737 42989 37616 26868
L 69638 64281 64281 58924 58924 53567 48211 37497 32140 26784 16070 L 96726 91353 85979 75232 69858 59111 53737 48363 37616 32242 21495
M 58924 58924 53567 48211 48211 42854 37497 32140 26784 21427 16070 M 80605 75232 69858 64484 59111 53737 48363 42989 32242 26868 21495
N 53567 48211 42854 37497 37497 32140 26784 26784 21427 16070 16070 N 64484 59111 53737 53737 48363 48363 42989 37616 26868 21495 21495
IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3 IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3
D 294323 249042 215082 192442 158482 124521 113201 101881 79241 62261 45280 D 454908 349502 305121 244097 227454 188620 149787 138691 110953 88762 61024
E 249042 220742 192442 181122 152822 118861 101881 96221 73581 56601 39620 E 338407 305121 282930 233001 205263 171977 138691 127596 105405 83215 55477
F 237722 215082 186782 169802 141501 113201 96221 90561 73581 56601 39620 F 305121 282930 260740 221906 194168 155334 127596 116501 99858 77667 55477
G 215082 186782 164142 147161 124521 107541 90561 84901 67921 50941 33960 G 271835 249644 233001 205263 171977 138691 110953 105405 94310 72119 49929
H 192442 169802 147161 130181 113201 101881 84901 79241 62261 50941 33960 H 244097 221906 199716 177525 149787 127596 105405 99858 88762 66572 49929
I 164142 141501 130181 113201 101881 90561 79241 73581 56601 45280 33960 I 199716 183073 166430 144239 127596 110953 99858 94310 83215 66572 49929
J 130181 118861 113201 96221 84901 79241 73581 67921 50941 45280 28300 J 155334 144239 133144 116501 110953 99858 88762 83215 77667 66572 44381
K 118861 107541 101881 84901 79241 67921 62261 56601 45280 39620 28300 K 133144 127596 122048 105405 99858 88762 83215 77667 72119 61024 44381
L 101881 96221 90561 79241 73581 62261 56601 50941 39620 33960 22640 L 116501 110953 105405 99858 94310 83215 77667 72119 61024 55477 38834
M 84901 79241 73581 67921 62261 56601 50941 45280 33960 28300 22640 M 99858 94310 88762 83215 83215 72119 66572 61024 55477 49929 33286
N 67921 62261 56601 56601 50941 50941 45280 39620 28300 22640 22640 N 83215 77667 72119 72119 66572 61024 55477 49929 49929 44381 27738
IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3 IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3
D 561957 429732 369129 325054 297507 253432 225885 187319 159772 104678 66113 D 672760 561516 487354 386705 349623 328434 280758 217190 174812 121838 74163
Round 0.90 (0.90-0.99)
Round 3/4 (0.70-0.89)
E 413204 369129 330563 308525 275469 242413 214866 176300 154263 99169 66113 E 556219 524435 444975 354921 333731 307245 270163 206596 169514 116541 68865
F 369129 336072 308525 286488 258941 225885 198338 170791 148753 93660 60603 F 524435 497948 413191 339029 317839 291353 259569 201298 164217 111244 68865
G 330563 297507 275469 253432 231394 203847 181810 165282 143244 93660 55094 G 444975 407894 349623 312542 291353 270163 238380 190704 158920 105946 63568
H 297507 269960 247922 225885 209357 187319 170791 154263 132225 88150 55094 H 360218 339029 317839 296650 275461 248974 227785 180109 148325 100649 63568
I 247922 231394 220375 203847 187319 170791 148753 137735 126716 82641 55094 I 301947 286055 264866 254272 233082 222488 201298 164217 137730 95352 58271
J 187319 181810 176300 159772 154263 148753 137735 121206 115697 77131 49584 J 248974 238380 227785 217190 201298 196001 180109 148325 127136 90054 58271
K 165282 159772 154263 137735 132225 121206 110188 104678 93660 71622 49584 K 206596 201298 190704 180109 169514 164217 148325 127136 100649 79460 52973
L 137735 132225 126716 121206 115697 110188 99169 93660 71622 60603 44075 L 174812 169514 164217 153622 148325 143028 132433 116541 95352 74163 47676
M 126716 121206 115697 110188 104678 99169 93660 88150 66113 55094 38566 M 158920 153622 148325 143028 137730 132433 121838 105946 90054 68865 47676
N 115697 110188 104678 99169 93660 88150 88150 82641 60603 49584 33056 N 143028 137730 132433 132433 127136 121838 111244 95352 84757 63568 47676
This price list reflects benchmark retail prices for polished diamonds. Diamonds may, and should, sell at discounts compared to this list.
This
For price
morelist reflects suggested
education retaildiscounts
on prices and prices forplease
polished
visitdiamonds. Diamonds may,
www.idexonline.com. and should,
Copyright 2009sell
byatIDEX
discounts
Onlinecompared to thisreserved.
S.A. All rights list. For more
education on prices and discounts please visit www.diamondSRP.com. Copyright 2009 by WFDB and IDEX Online S.A. All rights reserved.
12 DR AF T – DECEMBER 1st 2010
D R A F T – J A N U A R Y 1st 2 0 10
DR AF T – DECEMBER 1 s t 2010
IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3 IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3
D 3833148 2970382 26376002039826 1614606 1066133 788815 517660 443708 234179 129415 D 3833148 2970382 26376002039826 1614606 1066133 788815 517660 443708 234179 129415
Round 3.00 (3.00-3.49)
E 3890140 3550390 3069077 2570777 2134764 1325026 962626 515288 419025 232163 124575 E 543704348939364309051 3730134 2984107 1784496 1265261 620694 459552 268570 137269
F 3510752 3063415 2763302 2378252 1953564 1257076 939976 486975 396375 220838 118913 F 4774571 4297114 3939021 3491405 2566332 1629322 1211547 596821 441648 256633 131301
G 2650052 2378252 2231027 2100789 1715739 1115513 866363 458663 373725 209529 113250 G 3580929 3222836 2966202 2727474 2267921 1503990 1145897 572949 417775 244697 125332
H 2015851 1913926 1783689 1659114 1392976 996601 798413 436013 356738 203850 113250 H 2864743 2596173 2387286 2148557 1796432 1307039 1032501 513266 393902 238729 119364
I 1455263 1381651 1325026 1223101 1070213 832388 707813 413363 339750 192525 107588 I 2065002 1933701 1868051 1671100 1503990 1104120 895232 453584 364061 226792 113396
J 1172138 1115513 1081538 996601 883351 730463 617213 379388 300113 181200 101925 J 1551736 1474149 1372689 1313007 1253325 984755 793772 411807 322284 214856 107428
K 996601 934313 900338 838051 747451 594563 526613 345413 266138 164213 98602 K 1211547 1122024 1068310 1008628 948946 775868 656504 375997 292442 196951 107428
L 685163 651188 622875 594563 526613 424688 368063 288788 215175 158550 92439 L 889264 853455 811677 775868 716186 596821 453584 328252 256633 179046 101460
M 588900 566250 549263 515288 469988 379388 328425 266138 192525 141740 92439 M 769900 734090 704249 674408 644567 537139 405839 292442 220824 161142 101460
N 492638 481313 475650 436013 413363 334088 288788 243488 169875 129415 92439 N 650535 614726 596821 572949 572949 477457 358093 256633 185015 143237 101460
This price list reflects benchmark retail prices for polished diamonds. Diamonds may, and should, sell at discounts compared to this list.
For more education on prices and discounts please visit www.idexonline.com. Copyright 2009 by IDEX Online S.A. All rights reserved.
DR AF T – DECEMBER 1st 2010 13
DR AF T – DECEMBER 1st 2010
E 109230 101696 90397 75331 64031 60265 52731 52731 41432 30132 22599 E 122883 114409 101696 84747 72035 67798 59323 59323 46611 33899 25424
F 101696 94163 79097 67798 60265 56498 48965 48965 37665 26366 18833 F 114409 105934 88984 76272 67798 63560 55086 55086 42374 29661 21187
G 94163 82864 71564 64031 56498 52731 45198 45198 33899 26366 18833 G 105934 93222 80510 72035 63560 59323 50848 50848 38136 29661 21187
H 75331 71564 64031 60265 52731 48965 41432 41432 30132 22599 18833 H 84747 80510 72035 67798 59323 55086 46611 46611 33899 25424 21187
I 60265 56498 52731 52731 48965 45198 37665 37665 30132 22599 15066 I 67798 63560 59323 59323 55086 50848 42374 42374 33899 25424 16949
J 48965 45198 45198 41432 41432 37665 33899 33899 26366 18833 15066 J 55086 50848 50848 46611 46611 42374 38136 38136 29661 21187 16949
K 41432 37665 33899 33899 33899 30132 26366 26366 22599 18833 15066 K 46611 42374 38136 38136 38136 33899 29661 29661 25424 21187 16949
L 37665 33899 33899 30132 30132 30132 26366 22599 15066 15066 11300 L 42374 38136 38136 33899 33899 33899 29661 25424 16949 16949 12712
M 33899 33899 33899 30132 30132 30132 26366 22599 15066 11300 11300 M 38136 38136 38136 33899 33899 33899 29661 25424 16949 12712 12712
N 33899 33899 33899 30132 30132 30132 26366 22599 15066 11300 11300 N 38136 38136 38136 33899 33899 33899 29661 25424 16949 12712 12712
IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3 IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3
D 147490 137974 123701 114185 95155 85639 71366 66608 57093 42820 28546 D 197952 181902 165851 155151 133751 117701 107001 96301 69551 53500 42800
E 137974 128459 114185 95155 80881 76124 66608 66608 52335 38062 28546 E 181902 171201 155151 144451 128401 107001 96301 90951 64201 48150 37450
F 128459 118943 99912 85639 76124 71366 61850 61850 47577 33304 23789 F 171201 160501 144451 133751 123051 101651 90951 85601 58851 42800 32100
G 118943 104670 90397 80881 71366 66608 57093 57093 42820 33304 23789 G 160501 144451 133751 123051 112351 96301 80251 80251 53500 42800 32100
H 95155 90397 80881 76124 66608 61850 52335 52335 38062 28546 23789 H 139101 128401 117701 112351 101651 90951 74901 74901 48150 37450 32100
I 76124 71366 66608 66608 61850 57093 47577 47577 38062 28546 19031 I 112351 107001 101651 96301 85601 80251 69551 69551 48150 37450 26750
J 61850 57093 57093 52335 52335 47577 42820 42820 33304 23789 19031 J 90951 85601 85601 80251 69551 64201 58851 58851 42800 32100 26750
K 52335 47577 42820 42820 42820 38062 33304 33304 28546 23789 19031 K 80251 69551 64201 58851 58851 53500 42800 42800 32100 26750 26750
L 47577 42820 42820 38062 38062 38062 33304 28546 19031 19031 14273 L 69551 64201 58851 53500 53500 48150 42800 37450 32100 26750 21400
M 42820 42820 42820 38062 38062 38062 33304 28546 19031 14273 14273 M 58851 53500 53500 48150 48150 42800 37450 32100 26750 21400 21400
N 42820 42820 42820 38062 38062 38062 33304 28546 19031 14273 14273 N 48150 48150 48150 42800 42800 38062 33304 28546 21400 21403 21400
IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3 IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3
D 197952 181902 165851 155151 133751 117701 107001 96301 69551 53500 42800 D 258686 219639 200115 180592 165949 136664 117141 107379 92736 73213 53690
E 181902 171201 155151 144451 128401 107001 96301 90951 64201 48150 37450 E 224520 200115 185473 161069 146426 122022 97617 97617 87856 68332 48809
F 171201 160501 144451 133751 123051 101651 90951 85601 58851 42800 32100 F 200115 185473 165949 151307 136664 117141 92736 92736 82975 63451 48809
G 160501 144451 133751 123051 112351 96301 80251 80251 53500 42800 32100 G 185473 165949 151307 136664 122022 107379 87856 87856 73213 58570 43928
H 139101 128401 117701 112351 101651 90951 74901 74901 48150 37450 32100 H 165949 151307 141545 126902 117141 92736 82975 82975 68332 53690 43928
I 112351 107001 101651 96301 85601 80251 69551 69551 48150 37450 26750 I 141545 126902 122022 112260 102498 92736 82975 78094 63451 53690 39047
J 90951 85601 85601 80251 69551 64201 58851 58851 42800 32100 26750 J 112260 102498 97617 92736 87856 82975 78094 68332 58570 53690 39047
K 80251 69551 64201 58851 58851 53500 42800 42800 32100 26750 26750 K 87856 78094 78094 73213 73213 68332 63451 63451 53690 48809 34166
L 69551 64201 58851 53500 53500 48150 42800 37450 32100 26750 21400 L 73213 68332 68332 63451 63451 63451 58570 58570 48809 43928 34166
M 58851 53500 53500 48150 48150 42800 37450 32100 26750 21400 21400 M 58851 58570 58570 53690 53690 53690 48809 48809 43928 39047 29285
N 48150 48150 48150 42800 42800 38062 33304 28546 21400 21403 21400 N 48809 48809 48809 43928 43928 43928 39047 39047 39047 34166 24404
IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3 IF VVS1 VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 SI3 I1 I2 I3
D 360744 281677 266852 252027 237202 212493 182843 168018 128484 88951 59300 D 403281 318873 309495290738271980 257912 225087182883 135990 98476 60961
Fancy 0.90 (0.90-0.99)
Fancy 3/4 (0.70-0.89)
E 286619266852256969 237202 217435 187785 163076 153193 123543 84009 54359 E 318873309495290738276670262602243844 211019 173505 131301 93786 56272
F 271794 256969247085 227318 202610 177901 153193 143309 118601 79067 54359 F 309495290738271980 262602248534234466206330 168815 131301 89097 56272
G 256969 242143 227318 207552 187785 158134 143309138368 113659 79067 49417 G 290738 271980 262602253223234466 215709 192262 164126 126612 84408 51582
H 232260 212493 207552 192726 168018 143309 133426128484 103776 74126 49417 H 253223234466225087 215709 201641 192262 168815 154747 117233 84408 51582
I 197668 182843 177901 163076 138368 123543 113659 108717 93892 69184 44475 I 225087 211019 206330 196951 182883 178194 154747 135990 112544 79718 46893
J 158134 148251 143309 133426 128484 118601 98834 93892 79067 64242 44475 J 192262 187573 182883 173505 168815 159437 140679 121922 98476 70340 46893
K 133426 123543 118601 113659 108717 98834 88951 84009 69184 59300 39534 K 154747 150058145369 140679 140679 131301 121922 107854 84408 60961 42204
L 108717 103776 98834 93892 93892 88951 84009 74126 59300 49417 39534 L 121922 117233 112544 107854 107854 103165 98476 89097 65650 51582 39534
M 84009 84009 84009 79067 79067 79067 74126 74126 49417 44475 34592 M 93786 93786 93786 89097 89097 89097 84408 79718 51582 46893 37515
N 69180 69180 69184 64242 64242 64241 64242 39529 39534 39534 29650 N 75029 75029 75029 70340 70340 70340 70340 70340 39534 39534 37515
This price list reflects benchmark retail prices for polished diamonds. Diamonds may, and should, sell at discounts compared to this list.
For more education on prices and discounts please visit www.idexonline.com. Copyright 2009 by IDEX Online S.A. All rights reserved.
14 DR AF T – DECEMBER 1st 2010
DR AF T – DECEMBER 1st 2010
E 2241693 2076199 1940794 1685031 1479417 927770 636901 456362 366093 200599 115344 E 3125387 2911727 268316224148462002434 1252142 814886 516757 382599 223597 124220
F 202604919407941790345 1544611 1313923 867590 616842 431288 346033 190569 110329 F 265831824844092335344 2136592 1734117 1137859 770167 496882 367693 213659 114283
G 1715121 1554641 1424252 1359057 1138399 802396 601797 406213 325973 180539 105314 G 2176342 1987527 186330716893981431020 1018608 735385 477007 347817 203722 109314
H 1399177 1318938 1208608 1123354 947830 702096 531587 371108 305913 170509 100299 H 1888151 1739086 1565178 1431020 1232267 884450 636009 432287 327942 193784 104345
I 1028069 982935 927770 862575 807411 611827 466392 325973 265794 160479 95284 I 1286924 1192516 1117984 1018608 934138 695635 536632 382599 303098 183846 95284
J 747231 717141 692066 651946 621857 496482 406213 280838 225674 150449 85255 J 929169 884450 834761 775136 720479 576383 481975 337880 273285 168940 89439
K 591767 561677 536602 516542 481437 386153 346033 265794 205614 135404 80240 K 740354 705572 670790 621102 596258 472038 402474 313036 248441 154033 84470
L 421258 411228 401198 381138 366093 295883 260779 215644 170509 120359 75225 L 521726 496882 472038 457131 447194 357755 298129 268316 218628 139127 79501
M 330988 315943 305913 295883 290868 240719 210629 175524 140419 110329 70210 M 437256 422350 397505 377630 357755 298129 258379 208690 163971 124220 74532
N 240719 220659 220622 210629 210604 185554 160479 135404 110329 100299 65195 N 352786 347817 322973 298129 268316 238503 218628 149065 110329 109314 69563
This price list reflects benchmark retail prices for polished diamonds. Diamonds may, and should, sell at discounts compared to this list.
For more education on prices and discounts please visit www.idexonline.com. Copyright 2009 by IDEX Online S.A. All rights reserved.
DR AF T – DECEMBER 1st 2010 15
Can You Assure A feature of this
year’s Diwali
Your Customer jewellery sales
About The season has been
the rapid growth
Diamond? of consumer
assurance initiatives
She’s Sure for diamonds all
About the Gold around the country.
And while sales
By Vinod Kuriyan have sparkled,
the call for greater
standardization
in pricing and
assurance schemes
like buy-backs has
never before been
as loud. A report on
the Indian jewellery
retail industry’s
perception of the
need and what’s
being done about it.
measure of standardisation? “The geographic variety of the But there is still a strong need for third-party certification.
Indian market,” says Kanwaljit Singh of Singh Diamond Which is why Bamalwa posed the question to the GJF’s
in Mumbai, “leads to a great variation in the mark-up on general body of whether they should even consider a
diamonds at the retail level. In the northern markets, they government initiative in the matter. The problem with
love diamonds, but they want the biggest bang for their this idea, though, is that government infrastructure has
buck. So the diamonds are the more inexpensive kind -lower been woefully inadequate even with the primary need for
clarities and colours. But the overall cost of the piece is also providing gold hallmarking services around the country.
kept down by using lower karatage for the gold and so the Most of GJF membership present felt that asking the
diamonds still constitute up to 60 percent of the component government to also look after diamond certification was
cost of the jewellery. When you factor in the retail mark-up on something of a hopeless cause from the very outset.
the whole piece after adding making charges, obviously, the
diamond values are marked up by a much higher percentage While agreeing with this Bamalwa noted that this meant that
than in the southern markets, where they take only the retail industry had to collectively do something to provide
highest quality – and thus far more expensive diamonds. this much-needed assurance to the Indian consumer. Most
A comparison of two similar pieces with a exactly the same of the retail industry agrees that collective action needs to
carat weight in diamonds would show a five-fold increase in be taken on a combination of initiatives including third-
the cost of the diamonds for the southern market. Naturally, party certification, good buy-back programs and above all,
when you factor in the total mark-up, the appreciation in standardized pricing for diamonds.
the price of the diamonds is going to be much less. So you
really can’t say that the diamonds are overvalued in one Much of what consumers perceive as value, depends on
market and undervalued in the other. It’s in the nature of their confidence that the perceived value of the product
the consuming pattern in each market.” is uniform throughout the marketplace and that this
value can be unlocked at any time through a standardized
Still, the consuming market could be made to understand mechanism. Building up this confidence is key to enabling
regional differences in prices as long as consumers are diamonds compete successfully with the wide range of
confident of the quality of diamonds they buy. This is luxury products that now aggressively vie for a share of
where the Indian market runs into extremely uncertain the consumer’s wallet.
territory. Bachhraj Bamalwa of Nemichand Bamalwa in
Kolkata, the incoming president of the All India Gems As Gitanjali’s Choksi sums it up, “India is a very big country
& Jewellery Trade Federation (GJF), in his inaugural and the industry must come together to educate the
address at the GJF’s annual general meeting earlier this consumer on diamonds. All the retailers, manufacturers
year, highlighted the need for the jewellery retail industry and associations should come together to do this on a
to convey rock solid quality assurance to consumers when massive scale. In our business, providing an investment
he asked the question, “Does the Indian market need a guarantee of the product is as important as selling it for
regulatory authority to maintain standards among diamond its beauty. There must be trust and confidence created in
grading laboratories?” the consumer’s mind ■
Jewelry by esssenza
for gold expressions
I Love Gold!
Naturally, who doesn’t? Israelis designer, Daphna Jewelry by
daphna simon
Simon tenderly hand-crafts 18 karat into romantic
natural elements that bring a calming and sensual
feel to each piece. Why not think out of the
romance box and count the years of your love
using the metaphor of the rings on a tree?
Metallic l’Amour
In the My Way 2 collection, Italian designer
Goldsprit for Gold Expressions solidly
Jewelry by goldspirit expresses the notes of love with bold hearts
for gold expressions shining bright with metallic sheen. Striking and
passionate, the collection’s depth has avant-garde
characteristics.
Jewelry by al coro
Jewelry by Pacôma
Jewelry by stuller
G
lobal polished diamond prices of diamonds began to fall when Weak Diamond Prices:
prices slipped during the the U.S. dollar’s decline commenced. IDEX Online Issues Early
final week of October, Warning
after holding relatively steady during On a constant currency basis, IDEX The IDEX Online Global Polished
the early part of the month. In fact, Online Research estimates that Price Index, which is based on
prices declined even further due to global polished diamond prices real-time trading data, shows
the weakening of the dollar. since September have fallen by at that polished diamond prices
least 6 percent, if not more, from are softening. In contrast, some
The IDEX Online Polished Diamond levels earlier this year, on a constant polished diamond price information
Price Index averaged 117.8 for currency basis. published by other services suggests
October, ending the month at 117.2, that prices are “stable.”
and remained near that level in the Rising Gold Price Hurts
early days of November. Real Diamond Prices Why this dichotomy? IDEX Online
The U.S. dollar has weakened Research reports diamond prices
The IDEX Online Global Polished substantially against the price of in real time posted by diamond
Price Index decreased a modest gold. Since January, the price of suppliers. There are no “market
0.2 percent from September and gold has risen by 24 percent from adjustments.” IDEX Online neither
increased a strong 8.4 percent over $1,099 to $1,360, although it was owns nor trades diamonds.
the average for October 2009. slightly higher in mid-October.
Consequently, the value of the U.S. Demand in A Few Markets
Uncertain demand for polished dollar has fallen a substantial 24 Remains Relatively Stable
diamonds, especially ahead of the percent when compared to the Globally, the uncertain economy has
all-important holiday season in the global currency of gold. had a negative impact on demand
U.S. market, appeared to have caused
retailers to cancel backup orders
for diamond jewelry. As a result, Graph 1
diamond suppliers with excess 119 Daily IDEX Online Polished Price Index
goods were forced to reduce prices
in an effort to move inventory. 118
(4.7%)
(6.0%) Instead of diamonds and diamond
(8.0%) (6.3%) jewelry, consumers have focused
(8.5%) their spending on less expensive
(10.0%)
silver jewelry and lower-karatage
Euro Rupee Canadian $ SA Rand Australian $
Source: OANDA
gold jewelry. Popular priced fashion
jewelry – mixed metals and a variety
of colored gemstones – seem to
appeal to today’s jewelry shopper.
Graph 3
IDEX Online Polished Diamond Price Index Until demand for diamond jewelry
24 Months solidifies at the retail level in the U.S.
135
Peak August 2008 = 128.9 market, polished diamond prices
130
are expected to trade in a narrow
125 October 2010 = 117.8
range, with little support. Clearly,
120
there is not enough demand to push
115 Average April–November 2009 prices higher. Unfortunately, the risk
108+
110
remains high for downside price
105 movement. ■
100
N D J F M A M J J A S O N D J F M A M J J A S 0
2008 2009 2010
Diam nd
Treatments
P
eople have revered diamond as a precious product Today, penetration with high-energy electrons in a linear
of nature for thousands of years, especially in accelerator is one of two frequently used irradiation techniques.
India where the tradition of diamond trading and Depending on the material and treatment conditions, this
wearing dates back some 3000 years. process usually produces blue or blue-green colors.
In the last half century, scientists have discovered ways to The other technique involves bombardment with neutrons,
alter the appearance of natural diamond: namely to improve usually in a nuclear reactor. Diamonds treated this way usually
clarity and improve or change color. While treatments can become green, blue-green, or dark green.
make difficult-to-sell diamonds more attractive, they do
present identification challenges to the industry if sold Both of these modern processes produce uniform color
undisclosed. without zoning because the electrons and neutrons penetrate
very deeply.
Detection and disclosure is the key. Diamond treatments are
legitimate and can make some diamonds more marketable, Color-modifying irradiation treatment always comes after
but the need for positive, ethical disclosure is essential to a diamond is cut and polished.
protect the trade and consumers.
Irradiated colors are sensitive to heat. Technicians use cold
Treatments For Color running water to prevent color changes during the irradiation
Scientists have experimented with many ways to change process, which generates a lot of heat.
and modify diamond color.
After the gem is set, the heat from jewelry repairs, recutting,
Irradiation or repolishing might also change its color.
Sir William Crookes was the first to change diamond color
A controlled heating and cooling process called annealing,
by irradiation. He buried diamonds with radium salts for
is another way to change diamond color.
one year in 1904, which turned them green. Unfortunately,
it also made them highly radioactive.
ADVERTORIAL
When it follows irradiation in a two-step process, annealing
modifies irradiated colors to produce brown, orange, or Identification of color coatings is often easy with simple 10X
yellow. Rarely, it can also produce shades of pink, red, or magnification. Some visible features were scratches and
purple. In the 1970s, many diamond colors were modified other surface features, such as areas with uncoated spots
this way. or patches.
Coatings Today, more colors can be produced: light blues and light
One of the earliest methods of treatment was to use an pinks that often resemble natural diamonds.
indelible ink, or a dye called gentian violet, on the culet
or the pavilion of the stone. The girdle was marked by
the moistened pencil or the pavilion was dipped in the
Detection
Identifying HPHT diamonds involves specialized laboratory
colored solution. The girdle’s matt surface made it easier
techniques such as spectroscopy and photoluminescence, but
to mark or apply various dyes. This would change the
it might be possible to detect some signs with microscope
apparent color of the diamond to that of the dye color.
examination. Those signs include damage caused by the
extreme heat and pressure conditions, like etched or frosted
Such coatings can usually be seen with a 10x lens because
naturals and fractures that appear frosted or that converted to
they tend to be streaky. They may be removed by water,
graphite, often in areas in fractures and around feathers.
alcohol or a commercial jewellery cleaner.
These coatings are fairly durable, but not permanent. They Want to learn more?
can be damaged by the heat and chemicals used during About GIA Lab Services, email us at lab.giaindia@gia.edu
jewelry repairs and polishing and can also scratch fairly About GIA training programmes, email us at education.
easily. This means detection and disclosure are vital when giaindia@gia.edu
handling coated color-treated diamonds. Website - www.giaindia.in