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Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: Notes o... of Small Switchmode Power Supplies http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_smpsfaq.html
2 of 48 09/07/98 3:41 PM
Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: Notes o... of Small Switchmode Power Supplies http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_smpsfaq.html
Chapter 2) Introduction
Until the 1970s or so, most consumer electronic equipment used a basic
power transformer/rectifier/filter capacitor type of power supply for
converting the AC line into the various voltages needed by internal
circuitry. Even regulation was present only where absolutely needed -
the high voltage supplies of color TV sets, for example. Remember those
old TVs with boat anchor type power transformers? (Of course, if you
recall those, you also recall the fond days of vacuum tube sets and the
corner drugstore with a public tube tester!)
Nowadays, all TVs, monitors, PCs; most laptop and camcorder power packs;
many printers, fax machines, and VCRs; and even certain audio equipment
like portable CD players use this technology to reduce cost, weight, and
size.
Unlike PC system boards where any disasters are likely to only affect
your pocketbook, power supplies, especially line connected switchmode
power supplies (SMPSs) can be dangerous. Read, understand, and
follow the set of safety guidelines provided later in this document
whenever working on line connected power supplies as well as TVs,
monitors, or other similar high voltage equipment.
Having said that, repairing a power supply yourself may in fact be the
only economical option. It is very common for service centers to simply
replace the entire power supply board or module even if the problem is a
25 cent capacitor. It may simply not pay for them to take the bench time
to diagnose down to the component level. Many problems with switchmode
power supplies are easy to find and easy and inexpensive to fix. Not
all, but surprisingly many.
This document will provide you with the knowledge to deal with a large
percentage of the problems you are likely to encounter with the common
small switchmode power supplies found in many types of consumer electronic
equipment including PCs, printers, TVs, computer monitors, and laptop or
camcorder power packs. It will enable you to diagnose problems and
in many cases, correct them as well. With minor exceptions, specific
manufacturers and models will not be covered as there are so many
variations that such a treatment would require a huge and very detailed
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text. Rather, the most common problems will be addressed and enough
basic principles of operation will be provided to enable you to narrow
the problem down and likely determine a course of action for repair.
In many cases, you will be able to do what is required for a fraction
of the cost that would be charged by a repair center - assuming they would
even bother.
Should you still not be able to find a solution, you will have learned a great
deal and be able to ask appropriate questions and supply relevant information
if you decide to post to sci.electronics.repair. It will also be easier to do
further research using a repair text such as the ones listed at the end of
this document. In any case, you will have the satisfaction of knowing you
did as much as you could before taking it in for professional repair.
With your new-found knowledge, you will have the upper hand and will not
easily be snowed by a dishonest or incompetent technician.
The following probably account for 95% or more of the common SMPS ailments:
* Supply dead, fuse blown - shorted switchmode power transistor and other
semiconductors, open fusable resistors, other bad parts. Note: actual
cause of failure may be power surge/brownout/lightning strikes, random
failure, or primary side electrolytic capacitor(s) with greatly reduced
capacity or entirely open - test them before powering up the repaired
unit.
* Supply dead, fuse not blown - bad startup circuit (open startup resistors),
open fusable resistors (due to shorted semiconductors), bad controller
components.
* One or more outputs out of tolerance or with excessive ripple at the line
frequency (50/60 Hz) or twice the line frequency (100/120 Hz) - dried up
main filter capacitor(s) on rectified AC input.
In all cases, bad solder connections are a possibility as well since there
are usually large components in these supplies and soldering to their pins
may not always be perfect. An excessive load can also result in most of
these symptoms or may be the original cause of the failure.
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Some manufacturers have inexpensive flat rate service policies for power
supplies. If you are not inclined or not interested in doing the diagnosis
and repair yourself, it may be worthwhile to look into these. In some cases,
$25 will get you a replacement supply regardless of original condition.
However, this is probably the exception and replacements could run more than
the total original cost of the equipment - especially as in the case of most
TVs and many computer monitors, where the power supply is built onto the main
circuit board.
See the manuals on "Failure Diagnosis and Repair of TVs" and "Failure
Diagnosis and Repair of Computer and Video Monitors" for problems specific
to that type of equipment. For computer power supplies and other general
info, also see: "PC Switchmode Power Supplies". These are all available
at this site under the Repair Menu.
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A typical line connected power supply must perform the following functions:
* Voltage conversion - changing the 115/230 VAC line voltage into one
or more other voltages as determined by application.
A typical linear power supply of the type found in most audio equipment
includes a line power transformer which converts the 115/230 VAC 50/60 Hz
to other (usually lower) voltages (now that most equipment has done away
with vacuum tubes except for CRTs, more on that later). The power
transformer also provides the isolation between the load and the line.
The outputs are rectified by a diode bridge or other solid state
configuration. Filtering is accomplished with electrolytic capacitors
and sometimes inductors or resistors arranged as a low pass filter C-L-C
(pi) or C-R-C or other configuration.
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Most small SMPSs use BJTs or MOSFETs. IGBTs may be found in large systems
and SCRs or triacs are used where their advantages (latching in the on
state and high power capability) outweigh the increased complexity of
the circuitry to assure that they turn off properly (since except for
special Gate Turn Off (GTO) thyristors, the gate input is pretty much
ignored once the device is triggered and the current must go to zero
to reset it to the off state.)
The input to the switches is usually either 150-160 VDC after rectification
of 115 VAC, or 300-320 VDC after doubling of 115 VAC or rectification of
220-240 VAC. Up to this point, there is no line isolation as there is no
line connected (large, bulky, heavy) power transformer.
This high frequency transformer provides the isolation barrier and the
conversion to generate the multiple voltages often provided by a SMPS.
DC-DC convertors are switchmode power supplies without the line input
rectification and filtering. They are commonly found in battery operated
equipment like CD players and laptop computers. They have similar
advantages to SMPSs in being compact, light weight, and highly efficient.
Probably the most common topology for small switchers is the flyback circuit
shown below:
CR1 CR2 L
H o-------|>|---+----+---------+ T1 +-----|>|------+---CCCCC---+---+----o V+
line | | )||( Main +_|_ +_|_ | Main
rect. | / )||( output C ___ LC Pi C ___ | Output
| \ R1 )||( rect. - | filter - | |
AC HV +_|_ / +-+ +--------------+-----------+---|----o V-
Line filter ___ \ | |
in cap - | | |/ +-------+ +-----------+ +-----+
| +-----+--------| PWM |<--| Isolation |<--| REF |
| Q1 |\ +-------+ +-----------+ +-----+
| |
N o-------------+------------+
The input to the supply is the AC line which may have RFI and surge protection
(not shown). There may be several inductors, coupled inductors, and capacitors
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The output rectifier, CR2, must be a high efficiency, high frequency unit - a
1N400X will not work. The pie filter on the output smooths the pulses
provided by CR2. Sometimes, a full wave configuration is used with a
center tapped transformer secondary.
Note that the transformer, T1, is a special type which includes an air gap
in its core (among other things) to provide the inductive characteristics
needed for operation in flyback mode.
A reference circuit monitors the main output and controls the duty
cycle of the switching pulses to maintain a constant output voltage.
(Secondary outputs are not shown in the above schematic.)
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There are many other topologies for switching power supplies. However, the
basic principles are similar but the detail differ depending on application.
The flyback topology described above is one of the most common for small
multi-output supplies. However, you may find other types of circuits
in TVs and monitors. Some are downright strange (to be polite). I sometimes
wonder if engineers are given bonuses based on the uniqueness and difficulty
level of understanding their designs!
* Size and weight - since the transformer and final filter(s) run at a
high frequency (we are talking about 10KHz to 1 MHz or more), they can
be much smaller and lighter than the big bulky components needed for
50/60 Hz operation. Power density for SMPSs compared to LPSs may
easily exceed 20:1.
Since the advent of the laptop computer, cellular phone, and other portable
devices, the importance of optimizing power utilization has increased
dramatically. There are now many ICs for controlling and implementing
SMPSs with relatively few external components. Maxim, Linear Technology,
and Unitrode are just a few of the major manufacturers of controller ICs.
Switch mode power supplies are commonly used in computer and other digital
systems as well as consumer electronics - particularly TVs and newer VCRs
though audio equipment will tend to use linear power supplies due to noise
considerations. You will find SMPSs in:
* Many VCRs.
* Camcorder AC adapters.
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In additional, you will find DC-DC converters which are SMPSs without
the AC line connection, internally in an increasing number of consumer
and industrial applications including things like portable CD players.
The up side is that they are usually quite reliable, efficient, and cool
running.
The down side is that when a failure occurs, it may take out many parts
in the supply, though not usually the equipment being powered unless the
feedback circuitry screws up and there is no overvoltage protection.
4.1) SAFETY
The primary danger to you is from the input side of the supply which is
directly connected to the AC line and will have large electrolytic capacitors
with 320 V or greater DC when powered (often, even if the supply does not work
correctly) and for some time after being unplugged (especially if the power
supply is not working correctly but does not blow fuses).
Warning: the filter capacitors used in many switchmode power supplies can
store an amount of energy that can kill - always discharge and confirm
this before touching anything.
These guidelines are to protect you from potentially deadly electrical shock
hazards as well as the equipment from accidental damage.
Note that the danger to you is not only in your body providing a conducting
path, particularly through your heart. Any involuntary muscle contractions
caused by a shock, while perhaps harmless in themselves, may cause collateral
damage - there are many sharp edges inside this type of equipment as well as
other electrically live parts you may contact accidentally.
The purpose of this set of guidelines is not to frighten you but rather to
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* Always keep one hand in your pocket when anywhere around a powered
line-connected or high voltage system.
* Don't wear any jewelry or other articles that could accidentally contact
circuitry and conduct current, or get caught in moving parts.
* Set up your work area away from possible grounds that you may accidentally
contact.
* Know your equipment: TVs and monitors may use parts of the metal chassis
as ground return yet the chassis may be electrically live with respect to the
earth ground of the AC line. Microwave ovens use the chassis as ground
return for the high voltage. In addition, do not assume that the chassis
is a suitable ground for your test equipment!
* If you need to probe, solder, or otherwise touch circuits with power off,
discharge (across) large power supply filter capacitors with a 2 W or greater
resistor of 5-50 ohms/V approximate value (e.g., for a 200 V capacitor,
use a 1K-10K ohm resistor). Monitor while discharging and/or verify that
there is no residual charge with a suitable voltmeter. In a TV or monitor,
if you are removing the high voltage connection to the CRT (to replace the
flyback transformer for example) first discharge the CRT contact (under the
insulating cup at the end of the fat red wire). Use a 1M-10M ohm 1W or
greater wattage resistor on the end of an insulating stick or the probe
of a high voltage meter. Discharge to the metal frame which is connected
to the outside of the CRT.
* If you must probe live, put electrical tape over all but the last 1/16"
of the test probes to avoid the possibility of an accidental short which
could cause damage to various components. Clip the reference end of the
meter or scope to the appropriate ground return so that you need to only
probe with one hand.
* Perform as many tests as possible with power off and the equipment unplugged.
For example, the semiconductors in the power supply section of a TV or
monitor can be tested for short circuits with an ohmmeter.
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good idea but will not protect you from shock from many points in a line
connected TV or monitor, or the high voltage side of a microwave oven, for
example. (Note however, that, a GFCI may nuisance trip at power-on or at
other random times due to leakage paths (like your scope probe ground) or
the highly capacitive or inductive input characteristics of line powered
equipment.) A fuse or circuit breaker is too slow and insensitive to provide
any protection for you or in many cases, your equipment. However, these
devices may save your scope probe ground wire should you accidentally connect
it to a live chassis.
* Don't attempt repair work when you are tired. Not only will you be more
careless, but your primary diagnostic tool - deductive reasoning - will
not be operating at full capacity.
However, the cause of many problems are immediately obvious and have simple
fixes - the blown chopper transistor or dried up main filter capacitor.
Don't assume your problem is complex and convoluted. Most are not.
You should not avoid attempting a repair just because there is a slight
chance it will be more challenging!
The most valuable piece of test equipment (in addition to your senses)
will be a DMM or VOM. These alone will suffice for most diagnosis of
faulty components (like shorted semiconductors or open fusable resistors).
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These are the little gadgets and homemade testers that are useful for many
repair situations. Here are just a few of the most basic:
* Series light bulb for current limiting during the testing of TVs,
monitors, switching power supplies, audio power amplifiers, etc. I built
a dual outlet box with the outlets wired in series so that a lamp
can be plugged into one outlet and the device under test into the other.
For added versatility, add a regular outlet and 'kill' switch using a
quad box instead. The use of a series load will prevent your expensive
replacement part like a switchmode power transistor from blowing if
there is still some fault in the circuit you have failed to locate.
(Now, if I would only remember to do this more often!). See the section:
"The series light bulb trick".
A working SMPS may discharge its capacitors fairly quickly when it is shut
off but DO NOT count on this. The main filter capacitors may have bleeder
resistors to drain their charge relatively quickly - but resistors can fail
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and the term 'quickly' may be relative to the age of the universe. Don't
depend on them.
For the power supply filter capacitors which might be 400 uF at 200 V, a
2 K ohm 10 W resistor would be suitable. RC=.8 second. 5RC=4 seconds.
A lower wattage resistor (compared to that calculated from V^^2 / R) can
be used since the total energy stored in the capacitor is not that great
(but still potentially lethal).
The discharge tool and circuit described in the next two sections can be
used to provide a visual indication of polarity and charge for TV, monitor,
SMPS, power supply filter capacitors and small electronic flash energy
storage capacitors, and microwave oven high voltage capacitors.
* It will reduce your spouse's stress level in not having to hear those
scary snaps and crackles.
* Solder one end of the appropriate size resistor (for your application)
along with the indicator circuit (if desired) to a well insulated clip
lead about 2-3 feet long. For safety reasons, these connections must be
properly soldered - not just wrapped.
* Solder the other end of the resistor (and discharge circuit) to a well
insulated contact point such as a 2 inch length of bare #14 copper wire
mounted on the end of a 2 foot piece of PVC or Plexiglas rod which will
act as an extension handle.
* Secure everything to the insulating rod with some plastic electrical tape.
This discharge tool will keep you safely clear of the danger area.
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an insulated screwdriver!
Here is a suggested circuit which will discharge the main filter capacitors
in switchmode power supplies, TVs, and monitors. This circuit can be built
into the discharge tool described above.
Safe capability of this circuit with values shown is about 500 V and 1000 uF
maximum. Adjust the component values for your particular application.
(Probe)
<-------+
In 1 |
/
\ 2 K, 25 W Unmarked diodes are 1N400X (where X is 1-7)
/ or other general purpose silicon rectifiers.
\
|
+-------+--------+
__|__ __|__ |
_\_/_ _/_\_ /
| | \ 100 ohms
__|__ __|__ /
_\_/_ _/_\_ |
| | +----------+
__|__ __|__ __|__ __|__ Any general purpose LED type
_\_/_ _/_\_ _\_/_ LED _/_\_ LED without an internal resistor.
| | | + | - Use different colors to indicate
__|__ __|__ +----------+ polarity if desired.
_\_/_ _/_\_ |
In 2 | | |
>-------+-------+--------+
(GND Clip)
The two sets of 4 diodes will maintain a nearly constant voltage drop of about
2.8-3 V across the LED+resistor as long as the input is greater than around
20 V. Note: this means that the brightness of the LED is NOT an indication
of the value of the voltage on the capacitor until it drops below about 20
volts. The brightness will then decrease until it cuts off totally at around
3 volts.
Safety note: always confirm discharge with a voltmeter before touching any
high voltage capacitors!
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When powering up a monitor (or any other modern electronic devices with
expensive power semiconductors) that has had work done on any power circuits,
it is desirable to minimize the chance of blowing your newly installed parts
should there still be a fault. There are two ways of doing this: use of a
Variac to bring up the AC line voltage gradually and the use of a series load
to limit current to power semiconductors.
What you want to do is limit current to the critical parts - usually the
switchmode (chopper) power transistor of an SMPS or horizontal output
transistor (HOT) of a TV or monitor. Most of the time you will get away with
putting it in series with the AC line. However, sometimes, putting a light
bulb directly in the B+ circuit will provide better protection as it will
limit the current out of the main filter capacitors. Actually, an actual
power resistor is probably better as its resistance is constant as opposed
to a light bulb which will vary by 1:10 from cold to hot. The light bulb,
however, provides a nice visual indication of the current drawn by the
circuit under test. For example:
Depending on the power rating of the equipment, these wattages may need to be
increased. However, start low. If the bulb lights at full brightness,
you know there is still a major fault. If it flickers or the TV (or other
device) does not quite come fully up, then it should be safe to go to a
larger bulb. Resist the temptation to immediately remove the bulb at this
point - I have been screwed by doing this. Try a larger one first. The
behavior should improve. If it does not, there is still a fault present.
Note that some TVs and monitors simply will not power up at all with any kind
of series load - at least not with one small enough (in terms of wattage) to
provide any real protection. The microcontroller apparently senses the drop
in voltage and shuts the unit down or continuously cycles power. Fortunately,
these seem to be the exceptions.
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TVs and monitors have at least one SMPS - the horizontal deflection
flyback circuit and may have an additional SMPS to provide the low
voltages or the DC for the horizontal output transistor. Most of the
theory of operation and troubleshooting techniques apply to these as
well. However, manufacturers of TVs and monitors tend to be really
creative (can you say, obscure?) when it comes to these designs so a
little more head scratching is often necessary to decipher the circuit
and get into the mind of the designer. However, the basic failure modes
are similar and the same test procedures may be used.
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Symptoms: In this case the supply will appear totally dead but all
the semiconductors will check out and no fuses will blow. Check the
startup resistors with an ohmmeter - power resistors in the AC line
input section. Warning: there will be full voltage on the main filter
capacitor(s) - 1X or 2X peak or around 160 or 320 VDC depending on design.
Discharge before probing.
Symptoms: The main filter capacitor may dry up or open and cause the
output to be pulsing at 60 (50) or 120 (100) Hz and all kinds of
regulation problems. Measure voltage across main filter capacitor(s).
If the reading is low and drops to a much lower value or 0 instantly
upon pulling the plug, then one of these capacitors may be open or dried
up. If you have an oscilloscope, monitor for ripple (use an isolation
transformer!!). Excess ripple under moderate load is an indication of
a dried up or open capacitor.
Capacitors in the low voltage section may fail causing regulation problems.
Sometimes there are slew rate limiting capacitors which feed from the
primary output to the regulator controller to limit initial in-rush and
overshoot. A failure of one of these may mess up regulation at the very
least. For example, excess leakage may reduce the output of the main
output (and as a consequence, all the others as well).
"I have encountered a bad cap (10uf 35v) on the Vcc input of a UC3842 IC
in the power supply. Turn unit on, get very short burst of power supply
output, then nothing. Every time the 3842 output a pulse, it ran out of
VCC. Small part, big problem."
For Panasonic (and other) VCR power supplies, it has been suggested that
one or more the output filter capacitors commonly fail and replacing all
of them, while perhaps a brute force solution, will fix a whining
supply or one having bad regulation or noise. However, check the
semiconductors as well before applying power.
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Large components like the line filter choke and high frequency transformer
are prone to crack the solder bond at their pins or even break loose from
the circuit board.
Symptoms: almost any kind of behavior is possible. The unit may be erratic,
intermittent, or totally dead. Visually inspect the solder side of the
circuit board with a bright light and magnifying glass if necessary. Gently
prod or twist the circuit board with an insulating stick to see if the
problem can be made to change. Note that a one-time intermittent can
blow many components so inspecting for intermittents is a really good
idea even you believe that all bad components have been replaced.
Symptoms: voltage has changed and adjustment pot if one exists has no
effect or is unable to set voltage to proper value. Check components
in the feedback regulator, particularly the opto-isolator and its associated
circuitry. A weak opto-isolator may allow for excessive output voltage.
A shorted photodiode in the opto-isolator may prevent startup. An open
photodiode may lead to a runaway condition. WARNING: probe these circuits
with care both because of the safety issues but also since any slip of
the probe may lead to a runaway condition and catastrophic failure of
the switchmode transistor and its related parts as well as damage to
any attached equipment.
Note that the high frequency transformer does not make the top 10 list -
failure rates for these components are relatively low. You better hope
so in any case - replacements re usually only available from the original
manufacturer at outrageous cost.
All other parts are readily available from places like MCM Electronics,
Dalbani, Premium Parts, and other national distributors.
Rebuild kits are available for many common supplies used in VCRs, monitors,
terminals. See the section: "Repair parts sources".
3. Determine what the proper output voltages should be. Identify the
main (regulated) output.
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5. Determine an appropriate load for the outputs (if not connected to the
equipment). A typical SMPS will want a minimum of 5% to 20% of full load
current at least on the main output to regulate properly. Others may not
need any load - it depends on the design or they may have an internal
load. Here are some typical load currents:
Since there are usually several fault conditions that can result in
an aborted startup or cycling behavior, the basic troubleshooting
procedure needs to be modified when dealing with SMPS using controller
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Also see the section: "Typical controller ICs found in small switchmode power supplies
* Power cycling - monitor current and voltage sensing and Vcc inputs to
controller to determine which, if any, are at fault. Open or out of
tolerance resistors may result in incorrect sensing. Check for faulty
reference setting components like zener diodes. With the series light
bulb and/or Variac, disable each of the sense inputs by bypassing the
appropriate components. If one of these experiments prevents the cycling
behavior, either that circuit has a faulty component or the controller
IC's input characteristics have changed and it will need to be replaced.
It should be possible to determine if these sensing reference levels are
correct from the controller specifications and thus should be ignored by
the controller as within normal limits.
Once defective parts have been replaced, if possible remove the normal load
from the supply if you have not already done so just in case it decides to
put excessive voltage on its outputs and replace with a dummy load. For a
multiple output supply, the most important output to have a load on is the
one that is used for regulation but some modest load on all the outputs is
preferred. You should be able to determine a suitable value by considering
the application. For something like a VCR, a few hundred mA on the main
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Once you are finished, save your schematic and notes for the future.
For example, multiple models of VCRs even from different manufacturers
use the same basic design, maybe even the same supply.
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Most of the components used in switchmode power supplies are common and
easily identified. However, some may be unfamiliar and unrecognizable.
Others could be totally custom parts - ASICs or hybrid circuits - developed
specifically for a particular model or product line. However, these
rarely fail despite your temptation to blame them specifically *because*
locating a replacement is difficult and most likely expensive.
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Test for shorted and open junctions. These are the most common failures
for the power transistors. Partial failure where there is some leakage or
various parameters change value are unlikely.
* Power MOSFETs (2SK numbers) - many newer supplies are using these rather
than the bipolar type. In some ways they are more robust but testing is
more difficult.
Testing for shorts is still possible but anything more requires additional
equipment beyond a multimeter. However, the original problem did not blow
a fuse or fusable resistor, if the MOSFET is not shorted, there is an good
chance that it is still fine and you should look elsewhere for the problem.
It may be a problem with the startup circuit or controller.
Note: if your supply produces any output (say, more than 10% of rated
voltage), it is unlikely that the chopper transistor is bad as it must
be working to some extent and, as noted, these usually blow totally.
Test for shorted and open junctions with a multimeter. Substitute with
similar known good transistor is best, however. I have seen little
silicon transistors that had developed enough leakage to prevent a
400 W supply from coming up!
Test for shorted and open junctions. However, sometimes, diodes will
only fail with full voltage in-circuit but test good with a multimeter.
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Replacements for the primary side rectifiers are very inexpensive and
readily available. If the unit blows fuses with the switchmode transistor
and main filter capacitors pulled, the rectifiers may indeed be bad.
Test for shorts if output on which SCR is connected is not coming up.
Remove the SCR. Now, using a Variac to bring up the voltage slowly,
see if the relevant output is going over voltage, is still clamped
at a low level, or is the correct voltage (under load). A momentary
overvoltage spike at turn-on could also trip the crowbar. This could be
due to a faulty inrush/slew rate limiting circuit.
Test for shorts but substitution is best. However, with care (using a
Variac AND series light bulb to limit the input current, it is possible
to determine if the circuit in which these are connected is working.
Short across TL431 - supply should either turn off or run at greatly
reduced output. Remove the TL431 - there should be no regulation - outputs
should continue to climb as Variac is increased. By monitoring input to
TL431 it should be possible to determine if it is doing its job.
* Filter capacitors - electrolytic type are used for filtering of the rectified
(possibly doubled) AC line input and for filtering of the various outputs
of the power supply.
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Also see the document: "Testing Capacitors with a Multimeter and Safe Discharging".
Test for shorts - your multimeter will probably not be able to detect
the small capacitance. Substitute if in doubt.
Note that many of these are special high quality low loss types with
regulatory approval for use across the power line in the line filter.
Exact replacements are required for safety.
* Flameproof or fusable resistors (They are the same) - these are often
designated 'FR'. They will look like power resistors but will be colored
blue or gray, or may be rectangular ceramic blocks. They should only be
replaced with flameproof resistors with identical ratings. They serve a
very important safety function: they cannot catch fire when overheated
and will open rather than changing value which implements an overload
protection function.
These usually serve as fuses in addition to any other fuses that may be
present (and in addition to their function as a resistor, though this isn't
always needed). If an FR type resistor has blown, you probably have shorted
semiconductors that will need to be replaced as well. Check all the
transistors and diodes in the power supply with an ohmmeter. You may
find that the main switch mode transistor has decided to turn into
a blob of solder - dead short. Check everything out even if you find one
bad part - many components can fail or cause other components to fail
if you don't locate them all. Check resistors as well, even if they look ok.
The most common location for these in a small SMPS is in the return circuit
of a the switchmode transistor. However, they may be in the power feed
as well. The value may be a fraction of an ohm but can be larger.
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In TVs and monitors, these are often found in the hot power feed to the
main low voltage power supply and in various secondary supply feeds as
well. For the main supply, they will be 5-25 W rectangular ceramic power
resistors. For the secondary supplies, they may be the 1/2-2 W blue or
brown tubular variety.
Test for opens. Those in the return circuits are usually very low
value - a fraction of an ohm to a few ohms - if in the return of the
switchmode (chopper) transistor. The type in the power feeds may be
anywhere from a fraction of an ohm to several K ohms depending on the
circuit load.
For testing ONLY, a normal resistor may be substituted but the proper
replacement MUST be installed before returning the supply to service.
* MOVs - Metal Oxide Varistors - look like brightly colored plastic coated
disk capacitors but not marked with capacitance. These are surge
suppressors. A severe surge or lightning strike may obliterate one or
more of these. There will usually be either 1 between the Hot and Neutral
or 3 across H, N, and safety ground.
If they are visibly damaged in any way, just remove (for now) or replace.
Test with an ohmmeter - resistance should be nearly infinite.
Test when cold and hot (use a hot air gun or hair dryer if not in-circuit).
Resistance should drop from 10s of ohms to a very low value.
The main transformer which provides line isolation and generates the multiple
output voltages from the 150-320 VDC input rail. These are usually custom
wound for each model power supply and replacements are only available from
the manufacturer. However, some distributors will stock replacements for
a few TVs and computer monitors.
Testing for opens is usually easy since connections to the input (chopper)
and output rectifiers are fairly obvious. However, feedback windings may
be involved and these are not readily determined without a schematic or
tracing the circuit (and, possibly not even then.) The good news is that
failures of these transformers is less common than one might fear.
Some supplies use small transformers for feedback rather than optoisolators.
These can be tested for opens but rarely cause problems.
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Output 'pi' filter inductors rarely fail but if you suspect one, just
remove it and jumper across the pads for testing - ripple just won't be
quite as good.
* Coupled Inductors - used as part of the Pi type RFI filter in the AC input
circuit. These look like small transformers but the windings are in series
with the AC line. There are usually 1 or 2 of these on better supplies
and they are very reliable.
These devices generate the PWM pulse control to the switchmode (chopper)
transistor as well as various fault sensing and other control functions.
Parts such as these are now found in many small switchmode power supplies
and provide much more precise control during startup and normal operation, and
better handling of fault conditions compared to most implementations using
discrete circuitry.
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3. A drive switch for low current start-up off of the high voltage line.
The following pin descriptions for the Unitrode UC3840 were derived from a
Unitrode application note. Errors in interpretation are quite possible.
Pin 6: Current threshold This voltage input sets the over-current trigger
levels for the internal comparators.
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exceeded.
Pin 8: Slow start This input limits the maximum PWM duty cycle.
During power-on, an RC delay can therefore
control the rate at which the output ramps up.
The final value limits the maximum PWM duty cycle
during normal operation.
Pin 12: PWM output This is the drive signal to the switchmode
transistor. This is an open collector output
and will normally be used in conjunction with
the Driver bias (Pin 14) signal to provide
total drive to the switchmode transistor.
Pin 14: Driver bias Supplies drive current to external power switch
to provide turn-on bias and pullup during normal
operation. Disabled for shutdown if the Error
Latch is set.
Pin 15: Vcc UC3840 chip supply derived from the DC input rail
during startup and secondary winding on high
frequency transformer during normal operation.
The following pin descriptions for the Unitrode UC3842 were derived from a
Unitrode application note. Errors in interpretation are quite possible.
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Pin 7: Vcc UC3842 chip supply derived from the DC input rail
during startup and secondary winding on high
frequency transformer during normal operation.
Pin 7 is the power supply (Vcc). The oscillator inside the 3842 begins to work
above 16 V on Vcc and stops working when this voltage drops below 11 V. With
a stopped oscillator, the current consumption is very low, around 1 mA; with a
working oscillator, the current is much higher, about 12 mA. (The specific
voltages and currents are typical values for one particular version of the
3842 and can vary from device to device and depending on model.)
Vcc is generally powered in two ways: a high value power (startup) resistor
connected to the main bridge (e.g., +300V) and a from a winding off the
transformer (via a rectifier/filter capacitor). The value of the startup
resistor is selected such that there is more than 16 V with 1 mA but less than
11 V at 12 mA. So the oscillator can't continue to work with only the startup
resistor supplying power.
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Suppose we apply AC power to the supply. The +300V comes on. First, the
3842 consumes only 1 mA, Vcc reaches 16 V, and the oscillator starts up. If
all is well (no overloads), the transformer provides the necessary 12 mA
current to maintain Vcc at more than 11 V.
Tweet-tweet-tweet....
D1
AC o-----+----|>|-------+---------+-----o DC (+)
~| D2 |+ |
+----|<|----+ | +_|_
D3 | | C1 ---
+----|>|----|--+ - |
| D4 | +--o-o--+ +320 VDC to chopper
AC o-----+----|<|----+ - | J1 |
~| | | +_|_
+-----------|----+ C2 ---
| - |
+------------+-----o DC (-)
* With the jumper, J1, installed, the circuit is a voltage doubler for use on
115 VAC. (D3 and D4 never actually conduct because they are always reverse
biased.)
* With the jumper, J1, removed, the circuit is a simple bridge rectifier for
use on 230 VAC.
I don't advise it. There are many factors involved in changing a power
supply unless it is designed for dual voltage or autoswitching. They saved
a few cents if it is not easily switched, what can I say?
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really risky.
Going the other way may be more realistic if (and this is a big if) you
will not be running at anywhere near full capacity. Many switchmode
power supplies will run on much lower than their rated input voltage.
However, regulation may be poor and the switchmode transistor will need
to be passing much higher current to maintain the same power output.
To maintain specifications could require extensive changes to the circuitry
and replacement of the switchmode transistor and possibly transformer and
other parts as well. Again, I do not recommend this.
Surplus PC power supplies are widely available and inexpensive. However, what
do you do if 5 V isn't exactly what you need for a project?
Some of the PC power supplies I've dissected do have pots, by they have a
limited voltage-adjustment range. One interesting thing, every design used a
TL431 chip, which is a 3-pin TO-92 regulating IC, as the voltage reference and
opto-feedback component. Find this chip and trace out the resistors connected
to it to determine which part to change to make a higher voltage.
But, watch out for the SCR over-voltage circuit in some supplies. This is
usually set to trip around 6 to 6.5 volts, and its trip point would need to be
modified as well.
As far as the step-down transformer turns ratio, there's little trouble one
will encounter here, because the power supply is no doubt designed to function
properly with reduced AC line voltages. The penalty one will pay for turning
up the output voltage is a higher minimum AC voltage.
In most designs, the +12 and -12V supplies merely track the 5V supply, and are
not separately regulated. They may soar to higher voltages anyway if
unloaded, but will be additionally increased in voltage by the ratio of 5V
output increase. Even though the rating of the 5V electrolytic may not be
exceeded, and still have a sufficient safety margin, this may not be the case
for the 12V outputs. So that issue should be examined as well.
Finally, a reminder for any reader tempted to break open the box and start
experimenting. Voltages of up to 320 V are present, so be careful. Know what
you're doing. For safety, stay away from open supplies when plugged in, or
always keep one hand behind your back when probing. Remember a the AC bridge
and HV DC and flyback transformer portion of all these supplies is operating
straight from the AC line, so don't connect the ground of your oscilloscope to
any of that circuitry. A battery-operated multimeter is best.
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Should you always use a surge suppressor outlet strip or line circuit?
Sure, it shouldn't hurt. Just don't depend on these to provide protection
under all circumstances. Some are better than others and the marketing
blurb is at best of little help in making an informed selection. Product
literature - unless it is backed up by testing from a reputable lab - is
usually pretty useless and often confusing.
Line filters can also be useful if power in you area is noisy or prone
to spikes or dips.
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Startup is the most stressful time for a typical switchmode power supply.
The output filter capacitors as well as the load must be driven while the
input voltage is changing - possibly wildly. With careful design, these
factors can be taken into consideration. Not all power supplies are designed
carefully or thoroughly tested under all conditions. When power is restored,
surges, dips, brownouts, and multiple on-off cycles are possible. This is
why it is always recommended that electronic equipment be unplugged until
power has been restored and is stable.
Supplies that are autoselecting with respect to input power are vulnerable
to voltages at an intermediate value between their low and high ranges. At
some values, they may autoselect the incorrect input range:
Moral: turn off things with cunning PSUs when brownouts occur (oh yes the
airconditioner units got very hot and tripped out, too)
With non switch mode power supplies (SMPS), it may be ferrous material
(like a metal cover) being drawn toward the power transformer. That's
obvious since pushing on the cover will soften the hum. The frequency is
usually 60Hz or 120Hz.
The only time you should hear a "noise" from a SMPS is during a period of
"unstable" operation (i.e. their "loop" isn't stable and in regulation.)
That's why you may hear them "chirp" or whistle when you first turn them
on or off. It may also indicate a PC type power supply that's overloaded.
In years gone by, I've seen a quiet PC become a whistler after having a
new, big (30 meg, full height!) hard disk added. Sometimes the pitch of
the whistle would change depending on what parts of the system were being
accessed or what software was being executed. (Usually, when the old
Intel AboveBoard was being accessed in this '286, the audible pitch was
lower indicating greater current draw.)
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Substitutions of low ESR caps into circuits which had lousy caps is not
always the good idea that it appears to be.... Caution is advised, as low
ESR caps will not limit surge currents.
I guess what the industry needs is a good capacitor cross reference guide
for aluminum electrolytics!
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3. After eliminating overloads on the outputs check the DC supply to the power
device.
4. Check the bias coming from the feedback. Trace the bias supplied by the
feedback and try to determine what is the correct bias for that situation
(usually no power same as start-up).
* If the bias is wrong and there is no short on the output then concentrate
on why the feedback doesn't supply the expected voltage to bias the
oscillator on.
By using a fixed load and cutting out the feedback it is very easy to
troubleshoot. Don't forget to check the voltages and waveforms in your
test set-up and record them for future reference.
1. I see quite a few where the filter capacitors have failed. Not all
electrolytic capacitors are the same. You should get capacitors that
are rated for high frequency service. Use of "normal" caps that one
finds in the local electronics stores are likely to go bad in about a
year. Not something a professional who values his reputation wants to
see happen. In fact, I suspect that some manufacturer fail to understand
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this and use the wrong caps causing common failures in their units.
Especially units that may be subjected to use in warmer areas. I see
this mostly with specialized devices rather then mass consumer items.
I highly recommend the Panasonic HFS series cap that can be bought from
DigiKey (and other places I'm sure). These unit are specially designed
for good size as well as use in switching supplies. They are also rated
for 105 degrees C as opposed to the more common 85 degrees C temperature
rating. I have never had to replace a HFS cap I installed, where I've had
to replace "common" caps in repair situations. (No I don't sell the HFS
or have stock in DigiKey, I'm just passing some info that has worked
well for me.)
2. SMPS usually try to regulate one of the output voltages by using the
switcher, usually it's the output with the most power, but might be
the one that's most voltage critical. If the filter caps go bad in
the main output voltage, the auxiliary output voltages will go high.
The SMPS may also start to make high-pitched sounds as the ripple messes
with the feedback system. The aux output voltages may go so high that
the secondary regulator may go into foldback to protect itself. I found
this out the hard way. It's really something that can kick you in the
pants because normally one would not check the 5V supply if the problem
seems to be a bad 23.5V regulator.
3. Noisy (whining or buzzing) SMPSs that still work tend to be either bad
main output voltage capacitors or bad electrolytics in the power
oscillator circuit. See the section: "Buzzing or other sounds from SMPSs".
4. Most SMPSs have also have a *minimum* power draw requirement from their
loads. This is especially true of the main output voltage. If not enough
power is drawn from the supply, the supply may not be stable and can not
supply full power on the auxiliary voltages. An example of this is using
a 250W PC power supply just to drive a disk drive. Without the heavy 5V
power draw of a motherboard, the supply may not start up reliable or
provide the needed 12V power for the hard drives.
5. I've also seen cases where one of the voltage doubler caps will open up
causing failure in one of the switching transistor(s). It will short out
a single transistor unit, but in a dual switching unit, the transistor
associated with the good cap will over-work itself and open. An easy way
to test is to remove the other switching transistor (in a dual unit) and
apply power for 2 seconds. (Take all prudent precautions for working around
a live and open unit!) Disconnect power and use your voltmeter to check
the voltage across each of the caps. They should discharge at a roughly
equal rate. A bad cap will lose all it's voltage in less then 2 seconds.
A good cap will hold it's charge much longer.
6. Lastly, some unit that have the switch mode power supply in the same
enclosure as the CRT will have a sync signal that comes from the horizontal
flyback transformer. This keeps the SMPS in sync with the display so that
the small magnetic fields that are created by the SMPS don't create a wavy
pattern on the screen. Something to remember if a newly re-assembled unit
shows a window screen like interference pattern on the display.
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I have a schematic of a 200 Watt PC power supply, and I assure you that there
are enough cost-saving clever shortcuts in the design, that unless you know a
fair amount about the design of switchers, it will just totally and completely
baffle you.
Nearly all 200 W PC power supplies are *identical* knock offs of one-another
(except for the power-good comparator section). The transformer has a +5 V
output which is what is regulated. It also has a +12 V output and a -12 V
output. The -5 V output is derived from the -12 V output using a 7905
regulator. All transformer outputs are related in voltage by the transformer
turns ratio. The power supply topology is a Half Bridge, which normally
requires a "buck section" in each output (namely an inductor, catch diode and
capacitor). To vastly improve the cross regulation between windings, a common
core is used to wind all the 3 output inductors on.
The controller is typically a TI TL494 that operates off the output of the
supply. This means that in order to start, there must already be an output
voltage present! How they do this is really really clever, and also extremely
confusing. The power transformer is itself, self oscillating. This generates
a rudimentary output voltage that allows the thing to bootstrap up to normal
operation, and the controller chip to take over.
The +12 Volt output is what is used to power the PWM chip. Thus, the supply
runs off its own output. This is done to eliminate the need for troublesome
opto-coupler feedback. To boot itself up (after all, there is no initial +12 V
to allow itself to start), the driver transformer is modified (very cleverly)
to form part of a blocking oscillator. Thus the unit initially self oscillates
in a crude fashion until there is enough voltage on the +12 V output to allow
the PWM to start, which then swamps out the self oscillation and normal
operation commences.
Since the controller resides on the output side of the transformer, the drive
to the 2 half-bridge FETs is by a driver transformer (direct connection cannot
be made because the FETs are on the primary side).
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(Some newer supplies may have a +3.3 output as well which may be green).
* PC power supplies (as well as most other switchers) need a minimum load
on +5 and possibly on +12 as well. An amp (e.g., 5 ohms on +5) should be
enough.
I use an old dual beam auto headlight. It adds a touch of class as well
to an otherwise totally boring setup. :-) You can also use auto tail light
bulbs or suitable power resistors or old disk drives you don't really care
about (you know, those boat anchors).
* Pinout for the standard PC and clone connector (some companies like Compaq
do NOT use this type of connector, however.). Black (Gnd) wires together
for the P8 and P9 connectors when installed to mainboard.
* The peripheral connectors are: Pin 1: +12, Pin 2 and 3: Gnd, Pin 4 = +5.
In case you have been lucky enough not to have come across the beast, the
basic idea is:
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1. The first chopper goes short-circuit because it feels like it. The 150V
line jumps to 340V (remember, no isolation, and the inductor/transistor are
in series from the 340V line to the 150V line).
2. The crowbar fires, shorting the output. The primary-side current goes up as
well.
3. The overcurrent trip operates, and the 723 tries to shut down. It removes
the drive from the _first_ chopper. But that's shorted, so removing the
drive doesn't do a darn thing.
6. 340V is now applied across the connections of the ex-0R15 resistor. A few
small transistors and the 723 expire, along with some PCB tracks.
If the solutions to your problems have not been covered in this document,
you still have some options other than replacement.
(Also see the related document: "Sources of Repair Information and General
Comments" as well as "Repair Briefs: an Introduction".)
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Inside cover of the equipment: TVs often have some kind of circuit
diagram pasted inside the back cover. In the old days, this was
a complete schematic. Now, if one exists at all for a monitor, it just
shows part numbers and location for key components - still very useful.
Sams Photofacts: These have been published for over 45 years mostly
for TVs and radios. There are some for VCRs and a few for some early
PC monitors and other pre-Jurassic computers. However, for the power
supplies in TVs, there will nearly always be a Sams with complete
schematics.
Whatever the ultimate outcome, you will have learned a great deal.
Have fun - don't think of this as a chore. Electronic troubleshooting
represents a detective's challenge of the type hat Sherlock Holmes
could not have resisted. You at least have the advantage that the
electronics do not lie or attempt to deceive you (though you may
beg to differ at times). So, what are you waiting for?
Many companies now have very extensive information available via the
World Wide Web. Here are a few sites:
Here are some suggested books with information relating to SMPS and DC-DC
convertor design, testing, troubleshooting, repair, etc.:
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* http:/www/linear-tech.com/
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Then try one of their new data sheets, such as the LT1370, for some modern
circuit configurations, such as SEPIC converters. The above APP notes are all
contained in their Linear Applications handbook, Volume 1, 1990. If you are a
designer they also have a CD-ROM available, which includes some switcher and
filter design software. It's a bit limited, but a great starting point if you
don't need to stretch the boundaries."
The September 1996 (VOL. 17 NO. 9) issue of Nuts & Volts Magazine has a great
article on theory, troubleshooting, and repair of PC power supplies. Their
web site is: http://www.nutsvolts.com.
I have found one of the most useful single sources for general
information on semiconductors to be the ECG Semiconductors Master
Replacement Guide, about $6 from your local Philips distributor.
STK, NTE, and others have similar manuals. The ECG manual will
enable you to look up U.S., foreign, and manufacturer 'house' numbers
and identify device type, pinout, and other information. Note that
I am not necessarily recommending using ECG (or other generic) replacements
if the original replacements are (1) readily available and (2) reasonably
priced. However, the cross reference can save countless hours searching
through databooks or contacting the manufacturers. Even if you have
a wall of databooks, this source is invaluable. A couple of caveats:
(1) ECG crosses have been known to be incorrect - the specifications
of the ECG replacement part were inferior to the original. (2) Don't
assume that the specifications provided for the ECG part are identical
to the original - they may be better in some ways. Thus, using the ECG
to determine the specifications of the parts in your junk bin can be
risky.
Other cross reference guides are available from the parts source listed below.
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For other components, whether a not quite identical substitute will work
reliably or at all depends on many factors. Some deflection circuits are
so carefully matched to a specific horizontal output transistor that no
substitute will be reliable.
1. Fuses - same type (usually normal or fast blow), exact same current rating
and at least equal voltage rating. I have often soldered a normal 3AG size
fuse onto a smaller blown 20 mm long fuse as a substitute.
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as you are not running the supply near full load capacity. Use
of a higher temperature rated capacitor than the original may be
desirable as its life may have been shorteded by a hot environment.
This practice will never hurt.
The following are usually custom parts and substitution of something from
your junk box is unlikely to be successful even for testing: flyback (LOPT)
and SMPS transformers, interstage coils or transformers, microcontrollers,
and other custom programmed chips.
Substituting entire circuit boards and other modules from identical models
is, of course, possible and an excellent troubleshooting aid even if it is
only used to confirm or identify a bad part. However, if the original
failure was catastrophic, you do run some risk of damaging components
on the substitute circuit board as well.
Therefore, using a part with better specifications may save you in the long
run by reducing the number of expensive blown parts. Once all other problems
have been located and repaired, the proper part can be installed.
Where possible, a series load like a light bulb can be used limit the maximum
current to the device and will allow you to power the equipment while checking
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for other faults. Some designs, unfortunately, will not start up under these
conditions. In such cases, substituting a 'better' device may be the best
choice for testing.
I been repairing SMPS of all types but when I started on those using MOSFETs
I was blowning a few of them when replaced because something else was faulty.
Ever since I have been using a BUZ355 on a heat sink I haven't blown it. It
is rated at 800 V, 6 A, and 220 W. it is a TO218 case bigger than a T0220.
It seems the higher ratings allows you to do repair where as a something like
a 2SK1117 or MTP6N60 will just blow.
It was written with TV and monitor horizontal output transistors in mind but
applies to the switchmode/chopper transistors found in line powered SMPSs as
well.
Metal case transistors will be connected to the collector and have a healthy
pulse (>1,200 V peak!) and even with plastic case tab transistors, the tab will
be at this potential. It is best to do this only after the power is off and
the B+ has discharged. In addition, the HOT may be hot enough to burn you.
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The following are good sources for consumer electronics replacement parts,
especially for VCRs, TVs, and other audio and video equipment:
* Studio Sound Service (Rebuild kits for many popular VCR switchmode
power supplies, VCR parts, some components.
U.S. Fax: 1-812-949-7743 They will be happy to identify specific VCR
Email: part numbers as well based on model and
studio.sound@datcom.iglou.com description as well.)
Written by Samuel M. Goldwasser. [Feedback Form] | [mailto]. The most recent version is
available on the WWW server http://www.repairfaq.org/ [Copyright] [Disclaimer]
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