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POCKET GUIDE D I V E

THAILAND
INCLUDING THE M E RG U I A RC H I P E L A G O

www.diveguidethailand.com

PAUL LEES 2011 -12 EDITION

Australia A$17.60 (incl. GST) Europe €11 Singapore S$22.50 (incl. GST)
Thailand B450 UK £8.50 USA US$14.50 Sweden SEK105
See listing on Page 85
POCKET GUIDE
Dive Thailand

Cover photo & above: Red sea trout and soft corals

CONTENTS
Map of Thailand & the region 10
About the author 12
About Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand 14
Introduction to Thailand 22
Travelling to & around Thailand 28
Health & safety for divers 35
Diving & snorkelling in & around Thailand 40
Learning to Dive in Thailand 54
The Andaman Sea
Phuket 72
Khao Lak 90
Mu Koh Similan Marine National Park 98
Mu Koh Surin Marine National Park 105
The Mergui Archipelago 107
Krabi 110
Koh Phi Phi 118
Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park 126
The Gulf of Thailand
Western Seaboard
Koh Tao 139
Koh Phangan 148
Koh Samui 154
Eastern Seaboard
Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park 162
Alphabetical index 170
Published by Sun Offa Beach Co., Ltd., 29/116 Moo 2, Chuan Chuen Lagoon,
T. Koh Kaew, A. Muang, Phuket 83000, Thailand, in cooperation with Phuket
Publicity Services Part., Ltd. EDITOR: Wilai Suksalee.
info@diveguidethailand.com, www.diveguidethailand.com
PRINTER: Siam Offset Co., Ltd, 9/1 Soi Sriaksorn Tungmahamek, Bangkok 10120
©2011 Sun Offa Beach Co., Ltd and Phuket Publicity Services Part., Ltd. All rights
reserved. The contents of this book may not be reproduced or copied in any form
– printed, electronic, photocopy or otherwise – except for excerpts used in reviews,
without the written permission of the copyright holders. Text & photography, © Paul
Lees (unless otherwise stated in the book). Design & layout, © Grenville Fordham.
8
OVERVIEW MAPS
Dive Thailand

Thailand & neighbouring countries

Principal diving destinations in Thailand

http://www.facebook.com/PG.Dive.Thailand

http://twitter.com/PGDiveThailand

10
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Paul Lees

B
ritish born writer and photographer, Paul Lees, has
travelled extensively throughout Asia, gaining first-hand
insight and absorbing local perspective along the way.
Numerous valuable experiences have been stored in the
form of pictures and words, which have since appeared in
i v i n g
ut D
many internationally acclaimed publications including New
Holland’s best selling coffee table presentations Top Dive
Sites of the Indian Ocean, The Dive Atlas of the World and
a b o
Diving with Giants, as well as Dorling Kindersley’s Eyewitness
just
Not
Guide to Thailand.
Aside from spearheading the Pocket Guide series, Paul holds
the qualification of Master Instructor under two scuba diving
training agencies and Open Water Instructor in a third. He
also specialises in underwater photography and is a regular
contributor to regional and international scuba diving
magazines.
He has also been bringing the underwater world to the
surface in the form of natural history documentaries and TV
shows, including ABC Kane’s The Living Edens and the BBC’s
Really Wild Show.
When not engrossed with the range of Pocket Guide titles, he
continues to pay attention to expanding his extensive image
Launching November 2011
library on subjects both above and below the ocean surface.
Nov-May:,IBP-BLt.FSHVJ
He also coordinates and runs his own special brand of
underwater digital photography workshops and training 1IVLFUt4JNJMBOT
courses at a number of the most popular diving destinations
throughout the Asia Pacific region, including Indonesia,
Malaysia and Thailand.
Paul currently lives in Thailand with his family.

Make your dreams a reality...


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photo by Wilai Suksalee

BSAC & PADI Instruction


+66 (0)85 475 0447
www.blueworldsafaris.com
mike.blueworldsafaris@gmail.com
12
ABOUT POCKET GUIDE
Dive Thailand
A WOR
WORLD
R APART

T
he 2011-12 edition of Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand, follows
the Pocket Guide philosophy: “Written by experts who
are passionate about their subject and widely distributed
to reach active, travelling divers and those interested in taking
up the sport, providing an informative, quality publication.”

The contents start with a series of introduction sections:


‘Introduction to Thailand’, ‘Travelling to & around Thailand’,
‘Diving & snorkelling in & around Thailand’, ‘Health & safety
for divers and ‘Learning to dive in Thailand’.

The book then covers the different diving regions, each with
its own introduction and map, plus descriptions of featured
dive sites. These are followed by detailed listings of featured
dive operators and a regional directory of local services and
travelling logistics. Each dive operator listing and directory has
a uniform layout to maintain the high standard and profile that
are the hallmarks of a Pocket Guide publication.

Although every effort has been made in putting together this


edition of Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand, conditions at dive
sites or facilities can change after going to print. If you find
that we’ve misrepresented any details, please send an email.
Your input will help us correct errors for the next edition.
Comments to: info@diveguidethailand.com.

If you have enjoyed this title, or we trust found it useful, there F100 P
F1 PRO
RO
are other topic-specific guides in the series. A new era for closed-heel fins.
Pocket Guide GOLF Thailand gives an in-depth overview t/FXSVCCFSJOTFSUTPOCMBEFUPQSFWFOUXFBSBCSBTJPOT
of each of the golfing regions around the country including
featured courses and how best to play them. These are t/FXFSHPOPNJDBMMZGPSNFEGPPUQPDLFU
complemented by, amongst others, informative sections
t/FXCMBEFJODMJOBUJPO EFUFSNJOFECZ3%
covering golfing tips and tricks, healthy playing, golf for  UPQSPWJEFCFTUQFSGPSNBODFXJUINJOJNBMFåPSU
all the family and living the golfing lifestyle. A worthy
companion to any player’s scorecard! t/FXCMBEFJOTFSUTPGBUIJSENBUFSJBMPQUJNJ[F
 TOBQBDUJPO
Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand (due for release first quarter
2011) is packed with signature dish recipes and how to
create them from top restaurants around Thailand. There are
also sections covering regional flavours, different cooking
styles, preparation and presentation techniques,
as well as healthy and alternative ingredient
suggestions making it an ideal meal planner
and food shopping guide where ever you are. SINCE 1971
After all, everyone has to eat!

Pocket Guides are available


on Bangkok Airways and Bangkok, Koh Chang
Nok Air flights and/or in the Distribuited by Koh Tao, Koh Samui
airline hospitality lounges www.divesupply.com Phuket

14
POCKET GUIDE... the Series PG
get with OUR programme
hit YOUR targets
where less really is

MORE DIVE Thailand


www.facebook.com/PG.Dive.Thailand
GOLF Thailand
www.facebook.com/Golf.Thailand
Pocket Guide... FOOD Thailand
www.facebook.com/Food.Thailand
DIVE Thailand
GOLF Thailand DIVE Thailand

FOOD Thailand
http://twitter.com/PGDiveThailand
GOLF Thailand
http://twitter.com/PGGolfThailand
FOOD Thailand
http://twitter.com/PGFoodThailand
nothing but hard information
compiled by experts in each to book advertising or to get listed in
field and read by the people the guides that everyone keeps
in his or her pocket, email:
that matter info@pocketguideonline.com
Britain’s
favourite
10th ANNIVERSARY at ExCeL
spring
dive site

FEATURING a host
ExCeL of new attractions,
SHOW attractions at LIDS 2011 will include:
➤ World-class diving speakers

LONDON this year’s


10th-anniversary
➤ New dive gear – on display, and to buy
➤ Latest diving holidays – in Red Sea, Maldives,
Caribbean, Far East, Africa and worldwide
London International
Saturday 26 March ➤ British Isles Experience; PhotoZone; NoTanx
Dive Show at the Free-Dive Simulator; TEK 2011; PADI Diving Theatre!
9.30am-6pm
Capital’s biggest and ➤ Try-dive and rebreather pools
Sunday 27 March most state-of-the-art
9.30am-5pm ➤ Dive training advice from top instructors
exhibition venue will
Advance Tickets: £7.50 be a truly unmissable LIDS 2011 will feature the Asia-Pacific Showcase,
At the gate: £10.50 organised in association with Pocket Guide,
Under 14s: FREE
event. Whether
which will also be a prominent show feature at
you're just starting DIVE 2011
out in diving or a
seasoned expert,
at the NEC, Birmingham, UK
on 22/23 October 2011.
DıVE
2 11
INCORPORATING there will be no
better way to kick off For further information and to book online visit
the new season. www.diveshows.co.uk
INTRODUCTION
to Thailand

A
t the heart of South East Asia, Thailand is an independent
kingdom combining 20th-century sophistication with an
ancient culture that has evolved over the past 700 years.

Covering just over 500,000 sq km it is bordered by Malaysia


to the south, Myanmar to the west, Laos to the north and
Cambodia to the east. It is unique amongst Southeast Asian
nations in that it has never been occupied by a foreign
colonial power. Largely as a result, it has maintained a
cohesive sense of national identity and traditional culture.

Tourism
With over five million annual visitors, Thailand is one of the
most popular tourist destinations in Asia. It has an enormous
amount to offer, from ancient temples to rainforests and
remote islands with palm-fringed beaches – and, of course,
coral reefs teeming with life for divers and snorkellers. Tourism
is an important part of the kingdom’s service economy.

The country has also recently become a bit of a golfers’


paradise. In relation to its neighbours, Singapore, Hong Kong,

Red Mountain Golf Course - Phuket

22
INTRODUCTION POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
THAILAND - INTRODUCTION
to Thailand

Taiwan, Korea and Japan, it’s excellent value for money. As Isan
a result, many Asian and European tourists now visit in the Separated from Laos by the Mekong River, the northeast
winter months from November to March and enjoy a wide plateau is dominated by agriculture (rice, fruit and vegetables)
range of impressive golf facilities all around the country. and is one of the poorest regions in the country.

For the best information and insight on where, when and Known as Isan, this region has a distinct culture and dialect
how to play, see Pocket Guide GOLF Thailand and its online (reflecting its proximity to Laos), and although it is the least
version, www.golfguidethailand.com developed area in Thailand, this part of the country is well
worth visiting, with ancient stone temples dating back
Bangkok and the regions of Thailand almost 10 centuries. Isan is growing in importance as the
The population of Thailand is around 60 million, with gateway to Laos.
approximately 10 million people living in the capital,
Bangkok. This massive, vibrant, traffic-bound city dominates Central Plains
the country’s central region and functions as the cultural, The central plains are another important rice-growing area
religious, economic and political centre of the country. and, although most visitors tend to pass them by on their
way further north, there are ancient cities, such as Ayutthaya
Thailand is divided into four distinct regions: the mountainous and Sukhothai, which repay exploration.
north, the vast northeast plateau, the central plains, and the
narrow Isthmus of Kra to the south, stretching down to the The Andaman Sea
border with Malaysia. It’s the islands and beaches of southern Thailand that hold the
greatest appeal for tourists and, whether you’re looking for
Once covered in teakwood forests, the mountainous solitude or sophisticated nightlife, there is plenty of choice.
northern region appeals to the adventurous traveller, with
one of the main attractions being the prospect of trekking The Andaman coastline, to the west of the Kra Isthmus,
through remote – and not so remote – villages inhabited by a boasts fabulous scenery and dazzling beaches. The largest
diversity of tribal peoples. The main focal point for the region and best-known of the island destinations here is Phuket,
is the growing centre of Chiang Mai, Thailand’s ‘second’ city. which has been attracting tourists for a number of years and
is now in full swing, high-rise hotels appear inexorably above
Clear mountain streams are a common sight
the palm trees.

Further south, the island of Koh Phi Phi and the beaches
around Krabi on the mainland are slowly but surely building a
foothold on the tourist map and, although not as established
as Phuket, they are geared up to welcome all visitors – from
independent travellers to families – as is the more remote
and charming island of Koh Lanta Yai further south.

The Gulf of Thailand


In the Gulf of Thailand, on the other side of the Kra Isthmus,
the most established destination is the island of Koh
Samui; the other islands within the Samui Archipelago, Koh
Phangan and Koh Tao, are also popular tourist and diving
destinations.

To the east of Bangkok, the beach resort of Pattaya bears


little resemblance to the real Thailand and has a notorious
reputation, but further east still there are several virtually
untouched islands awaiting the adventurous traveller – Koh
Chang, for instance, which is the country’s second largest
island offers miles of beaches and unexplored forest along
with its less developed neighbour, Koh Kut.
24 25
DISCOVER WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MISSING.
In this wonderful country where smiles seem to be the national language,
where welcomes are always heartfelt, and where making new friends is so easy,
here you’ll discover true warmth.
TRAVELLING
to & around Thailand

Getting there
More than 50 international airlines serve the country with
daily direct flights to Bangkok from most major cities in
Europe, USA and Australia. There are also frequent flights
from all over South East Asia to Bangkok and Phuket.

You can drive into Thailand from Malaysia and Laos – the
latter journey takes you over the famous Thai-Laos Friendship
Bridge across the Mekong, at Nong Khai. If you are coming
into the country from Singapore or Malaysia – and if you
have a great deal of money to spare – think about the 34hr
journey on the luxurious Eastern & Oriental Express, sister to
the legendary Orient Express.

Visas
People of most nationalities can obtain free visas, valid 30
days, on arrival at Bangkok International Airport and other
entry points; these will be issued only if you have a current
passport and ticket to take you out of the country at the end
of your stay. Longer-stay visas are available, for a fee, from Thai
embassies and consulates around the world: specify whether
you want a transit visa (valid 30 days), a tourist visa (valid 60
days) or a non-immigrant visa (valid 90 days and difficult to
obtain). If you have a tourist visa you can, once in Thailand,
apply for a 30 day extension. If you plan to leave Thailand
temporarily during your stay, you must obtain a re-entry visa,
available from the Immigration Department in Bangkok. These
rules are subject to change so check current regulations prior
to departure

Customs
Customs are usually no trouble, unless you are carrying
pornography, political propaganda, firearms, large amounts of
cash (over $10,000), or illicit drugs – for possession of which

Ao Nang Bay, Krabi

28
TRAVELLING
to & around Thailand

the penalties are draconian. The allowances for the usual


luxury goods – perfume, alcohol and the like – vary, so check
them before departure. Please note that you are required to
bring a minimum amount of currency into the country which
varies depending on your visa.

Getting around
For longer distances air travel is the easiest option and
not prohibitively expensive. Nok Air and Thai Airways
International both have extensive domestic networks;
Bangkok Airways has a smaller one. Recent years have seen
deregulation of air travel in Thailand and a number of new
low-cost domestic carriers. Reliability may be factor.

Thailand has a good rail service: the fares are inexpensive,


timetables are usually adhered to, and the trains themselves
are comfortable and clean – with four classes covering
four main lines; Northern, North-eastern, Southern and
Eastern – so that you can choose between economy and air
conditioned luxury. One pitfall to avoid is that of not booking
early enough: on the trunk routes you should do so at least
a month in advance. The main railway station in Bangkok
serving all destinations is Hua Lumphong Railway Station.

Long-distance buses are a cheaper alternative, but you take


your life in your hands on one of these; the driving is often
atrocious. If you decide to risk it, opt for an air-conditioned
service; the comparatively small cost difference is worth it. In
remote areas you may be able to go to the opposite extreme
Pocket Guides present the Asia Pacific Showcase at many international dive shows

30 See listing on Page 87


TRAVELLING
to & around Thailand

– from air-conditioning to just plain air – by travelling on a


Songthaew. This is essentially an open-backed pick-up truck
with a couple of wooden benches in the back.

Taxis, Tuk tuks (3-wheeled scooters) and pedal-tricycles


operate in many parts of Thailand. You use these much as
you would a taxi at home, except that you should negotiate
a price before setting off – try to bargain good-naturedly. Do
note that in many areas the drivers may not speak English, so
to avoid confusion, get your hotel receptionist to write down
your destination in Thai and show it to the driver. Ask at your
hotel what a reasonable fare to the destination might be.

Alternatively, self-drive is an option and by law, an


International driving license will need to be produced.

Money
The unit of currency is the Thai Baht, which comprises 100
satang. All major credit cards are widely accepted. If you
prefer travellers’ cheques, obtain them in either Sterling,
Euros or US dollars.

Currency exchange can be done either at banks or, in the


major tourist areas, at currency exchange counters. The
larger hotels will also change money, but usually give a poor
rate of exchange. Daily exchange rates are published in two
English language newspapers — the Bangkok Post and the
Nation.

Tipping
The majority of major hotels include a service charge
and local taxes, however a tip of 10-15 per cent for an
appreciated service should be considered in restaurants and
after liveaboard excursions.

Health
No particular vaccinations or inoculations are officially required
before you enter the country, unless you do so from an area
where an infection is rife. Check your route with your local
consulate or embassy in case there are necessary inoculations.
Ask to be protected against hepatitis A and B, tetanus, malaria
and typhoid. Once in Thailand, do not drink tap water.

Venereal diseases – notably AIDS – are extremely prevalent


so avoid casual liaisons. Rabies is likewise: If bitten by any
animal, seek medical attention immediately.

The standard of medical services in Thailand is generally high


– certainly in Bangkok and other big cities and in the major
tourist centres. A note of warning: Even if you take anti-
malarial tablets before travelling, it’s still possible to contract
malaria, so if you feel feverish when you return home contact
32
TRAVELLING POCKET
HEALTHGUIDE
& SAFETY
DIVE THAILAND

to & around Thailand for divers

D
your doctor immediately and have a check-up, mentioning ecompression Illnesses (DCI) or ‘the bends’, occurs when
that you have been in Thailand. bubbles of gas are trapped inside the body of a diver.
Symptoms include muscle and joint pain, skin rashes,
Key facts tingling sensations and in more serious cases neurological
Electricity: The supply is 220v AC 50Hz. Two-pin plugs with problems and even paralysis.
either round or flat pins are used, so carry an adaptor
Mean temperatures: Air – 30-400C. Sea – 27-310C Initial symptoms can be very subtle but gradually worsen
Time zone: GMT + 7hr over time, and can occur within a few minutes to 48 hours
Clothing: Lightweight clothes are most suitable. Long after the dive. Thankfully DCI is extremely rare with only
trousers guard ankles from mosquito bites during the a small percentage of divers needing to be treated each
evenings and are strongly recommended, as are waterproofs year. Statistics show that only a very small fraction of the
for long dive-boat journeys thousands who dive in Thailand every year are treated for
DCI.
Diving agencies: Recreational – CMAS, PADI, SSI, some BSAC
and NAUI. Technical – ANDI, IANTD and TDI.
It’s important to remember that Decompression Illness can
Diving gear: Included in the price of diving courses and some be difficult to diagnose and in many cases DCI symptoms
dive trips; larger dive centres all provide a full rental service. are similar to a lot of other medical problems that don’t
require treatment inside a hyperbaric chamber. This is why
Dialling codes it’s important for an injured diver to visit a hospital to be
The IDD for Thailand is: +66 completely checked out and diagnosed correctly.
To dial IDD from within Thailand, use 001 (or+)
If a diver has DCI then they will need to breathe oxygen under
Local dialling codes within Thailand need to be added for all pressure in a hyperbaric chamber. This helps break down the
calls, even those made within the same area. When calling bubbles of gas that are trapped in their body. The time they
from outside Thailand omit the prefix ‘0’. Smaller islands need to spend inside the chamber can vary between 2 to 5 or
have mobile phone numbers and are not on a network. more hours depending on the severity of the symptoms. On
Dialling codes within Thailand are: average a patient needs to receive 2 treatments inside the
• Bangkok 02 chamber before their symptoms completely disappear.
• Koh Samui, Koh Phangan & Koh Tao 077 Five Badalveda Diving Medicine Centres are operating in Bangkok, Koh Tao, Koh Samui,
• Phuket & Khao Lak 076 Koh Phuket and Pattaya
• Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi & Krabi 075
• Pattaya 038
• Koh Chang 039

Public holidays 2011-12


Apr 6 Chakri Memorial Day Oct 24 Chulalongkorn Day
Apr 13-15 Songkran (substitution)
May 1 (Sun) Labour Day Dec 5 HM The King’s
May 2 Labour Day Birthday/Father’s Day
(substitution) Dec 10 (Sat) Constitution Day
May 5 Coronation Day Dec 12 Constitution Day
May 17 Visakha Bucha* (substitution)
Jul 15 Asarnha Bucha* Dec 31 New Year’s Eve
Jul 16 Khao Phansa Jan 1 (Sun) New Year’s Day
(Buddhist Lent)* Jan 2 New Year’s Day
Aug 12 HM The Queen’s (substitution)
Birthday/Mother’s Day Mar 7 Makha Bucha
Oct 23 (Sun) Chulalongkorn Day*Holidays marked * are
Day governed by the phases of
the moon. Check the dates.

34 35
HEALTH & SAFETY
for divers

Time delay is the most common factor contributing to an


unsatisfactory outcome of Decompression Illness treatment.
Badalveda places its network of hyperbaric chambers,
ambulances and diving medicine emergency procedures
to provide timely evacuation and hyperbaric treatment to
every diver with suspected DCI from any of the diving spots
in Thailand for the best chance of recovery.

For more information on Badalveda talk to your


local dive centre or call the Diving Medicine Hotline:
+66 (0)81 989 9482.

Divers can call these numbers 24 hours a day for advice


and assistance about diving injuries, evacuation services or
general diving medicine questions, but please bear in mind
that these are emergency contact numbers!

36
HEALTH & SAFETY
for divers

There are a number of medical problems that affect a person’s


fitness to dive. While someone may feel fine and may be
taking medication to treat an illness, it can be very difficult
to determine what will happen when he or she is placed in a
by Composite Catamarans
situation with increased pressure. Diving with a pre-existing N GU
t4MFFQT
medical condition may not only put the diver in danger, but D&63 4"*-"8":
also his or her dive partners.

It’s imperative always to answer truthfully on any diving


medical questionnaire and be cleared by a doctor if there are
any doubts. As a rough guide, any diver with the following
conditions should consult a doctor before commencing a
dive.

• Asthma
• Epilepsy
• Cardiovascular disease
• History of lung injury or disease
• High blood pressure / Hypertension
• Middle air or chronic sinus problems
• Gastrointestinal problems

It’s also important that divers receive clearance for any


medication they may be taking. It can be extremely
hazardous to dive with certain drugs in your system and you
should always consult with a doctor specialising in diving
before going ahead to dive.

ALSO AVAILABLE FOR CHARTER

www.catamaransailingphuket.com
sales@catamaransailingphuket.com
mob. +66 (0)81 797 9754, ph. +66 (0) 7626 4491
38
DIVING & SNORKELLING
in & around Thailand

T
hailand has much to offer the visiting diver and
snorkeller. There is a vast range of exhilarating sites of
many different kinds, providing something for both
recreational and technical divers alike, regardless of their
qualification levels or experience.

With over 2,000km of coastline and hundreds of offshore


islands, the variety is phenomenal, encompassing everything
from extensive fringing reefs to deep drop-offs and wrecks,
dramatic granite walls, caves and tunnels, coral-covered
pinnacles and open ocean seamounts. Spectacular hard and
soft corals abound and the marine life is prolific, ranging
from minute colourful reef dwellers to manta rays, sharks
and pelagic visitors such as giant barracuda, tuna, trevally
and the mighty whale shark.

With the Andaman Sea to the west and the Gulf of Thailand
to the east, Thailand is unique in that it borders two distinct
oceanic zones, each with their own peculiarities and marine
life. Many dive sites all around the coast share common
species, but on others the underwater terrain and reef
communities show marked differences between the two
sides of the peninsula’s coastline.

Andaman Sea
Extending from Myanmar down the west coast of Thailand to
beyond the Malaysian border, the Andaman Sea forms part of
the Indian Ocean. Many of the 155 islands in the Andaman Sea
are uninhabited (apart from communities of Chao Ley – ‘sea
gypsies’), and are crowned by lush primary vegetation tumbling
down to shorelines punctuated by idyllic sandy beaches.

Most of the diving in this region is organized from the popular


holiday island destination of Phuket, with a wide variety of
operators offering recreational and technical training, day
trips, and liveaboard options. The best time for diving is
between October and May.

In general the Andaman Sea has more extensive coral reefs


but similar visibility to the Gulf of Thailand, with most of
the reefs around the offshore islands occurring on the east
sides of the islands, due to the influence of the southwest
monsoon; the west coasts tend to have rocky slopes
descending to 10-30m in depth.

Towards the northern end of the Thai coastline, a series of


granitic outcrops lie in deep, clear water with reefs descending
to 25-30m and beyond in depth. These are the Similan and
Surin Islands, whose breathtaking underwater scenery and
great diversity of marine life have gained them a considerable
reputation in the diving community.
40
DIVING & SNORKELLING POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVING - INTRODUCTION
in & around Thailand

Given their proximity to Phuket, it is not surprising that these great visibility complemented with a rich variety of corals and
two island groups are among the country’s most popular marine life; shallow fringing and patch reefs are an added
destinations for day trips and liveaboard excursions. attraction for snorkellers.

Further to the north in Myanmar is the Mergui Archipelago, The most southerly established dive sites in the country are
recently opened to foreigners, offering real wilderness diving to the south of Koh Lanta. They feature pristine corals and
over unusual underwater terrain, with the added attraction spectacular fringing reefs in potentially excellent visibility.
of shark encounters. Here are some of the finest dive sites in the country, such
as Hin Mouang, which features the deepest drop-off in
The coastline of Phuket itself offers little for the experienced Thailand, with depths in excess of 70m, and Hin Daeng, one
diver, although there are dive sites that can be (and are) used of the few remaining dive sites where both manta rays and
for training and are also a good option if bad weather prevents whale sharks are regularly encountered.
boats getting to the better sites.
Another dive destination in the Andaman Sea that is still in
These offshore sites are mostly to the south, and can be its infancy is Mu Koh Tarutao Marine National Park (just north
reached by relatively short boat rides of between one and of the Malaysian border), where dugongs have been seen.
two hours. They are all well worth the journey, but two in
particular (Shark Point and Anemone Reef) stand out as The Gulf of Thailand
being special in terms of the abundance of marine life. The Gulf of Thailand coast, at 1,840km well over twice as
long as the Andaman Sea coastline, follows a great parabola
Further south, the coastline at Krabi offers shallow fringing from the border with Malaysia on the south coast around to
reefs around impressive limestone formations (ranging in Cambodia and the southwest tip of Vietnam. The Gulf itself
size from underwater pillars to whole islands). Some of the is a vast, shallow depression – generally less than 60m deep
best snorkelling sites in the country are to be found here. and reaching a maximum of 85m – which, while incredibly
productive, does not have continually great visibility.
Offshore, the Phi Phi islands, with their palm-fringed beaches,
have been growing in popularity as a dive base for the last two This is largely due to the turbid waters from river outlets being
decades. This is not surprising as the local waters experience trapped in the Gulf by an underwater shelf that stretches
across the mouth of the Gulf from Malaysia to Vietnam. True
A small crab takes refuge in a crinoid reefs do not occur further north than those found in the Ban
Krut area in Prachuap Khiri Khan Province, just over 300km
south of Bangkok.

There are 112 islands in the offshore waters of the Gulf, many
with fringing reefs interspersed with rocks and soft seabed.
Visibility around their shorelines tends to be better than
the mainland, where inshore waters are affected not only
by turbidity but by freshwater runoff and urban/industrial
pollution. The offshore reefs have a lower diversity than the
reefs of the Andaman Sea, but marine life is still prolific, with
Indo-Pacific species predominating.

Some of the best dive sites in the Gulf of Thailand are around
Koh Tao, 80km from the mainland. Sheer wall dives around
submerged pinnacles, tunnels and archways carpeted with
radiant hard and soft corals, colourful schools of reef fish
and an exciting selection of visiting pelagics, including
giant barracuda, sharks and whale sharks. Easy snorkelling
from the beaches over impressive coral gardens is another
highlight of Koh Tao.

42 43
DIVING & SNORKELLING POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVING - INTRODUCTION
in & around Thailand

Koh Phangan, 47km south of Koh Tao, is a Bohemian paradise. Thailand’s easternmost diving and snorkelling area covers
The fringing reefs around the island are of limited appeal, but the waters around and to the south of Koh Chang, in Trat
two sites to the north – Sail Rock and Samran Pinnacles – are province. This is an up and coming destination and one
truly world-class, spectacular wall dives, acting as a magnet for well worth visiting. Aside from a great diversity of dive sites
numerous schools of pelagics. including reefs, walls and pinnacles the associated marine
life is as diverse as it is high and includes regular encounters
Koh Samui, further south, has a well developed tourist with all sizes of marine life from minute invertebrates up to
infrastructure and some enjoyable dive sites on its fringing enormous whale sharks.
reefs. Visibility around Koh Samui is only slightly better
than that around Koh Phangan, and most people use it as Diving seasons
a convenient (and fun) base from which to dive sites to the The weather on either side of the Kra Isthmus and diving
north of Koh Phangan or around Koh Tao. conditions in the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand
are dominated by two opposing monsoons, the northeast
Further to the south, the clear waters around Koh Losin, located and southwest monsoons. The northeast monsoon sweeps
above the Malaysian border, are occasionally dived from across the Gulf of Thailand between mid October and mid
liveaboard excursions and are a great place for encountering December, bringing heavy rain and strong winds – some dive
manta rays, whale sharks and large schools of trevally. sites become inaccessible during this time as they suffer from
strong currents and reduced visibility. It’s during this period
Working eastwards from Bangkok, Pattaya has a well that many tourists switch, as if by magic, to the west coast.
developed dive industry for both recreational and technical
divers. The nearest dive sites here are located around the ‘Far Those that stay on in the Gulf during this short time will find
Islands’ group, offering fringing reefs of hard and soft corals themselves on nearly empty beaches, with the sun regularly
and a selection of four enjoyable wrecks. Pattaya’s dive sites appearing from behind the clouds. An anomaly is that the
also include the islands and islets off the small fishing village easternmost diving regions in Trat province remain sheltered
of Samaesan 17kms further south. during this period.
A cornucopia of colour awaits below
photo by © Mark Strickland

44 45
PAUL LEES PRESENTS
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DIVING & SNORKELLING POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVING - INTRODUCTION
in & around Thailand

The Andaman Sea is sheltered from the worst effects of the Dive operators
northeast monsoon, and diving and snorkelling is at its best There are many top-notch dive centres in both the Andaman
from November to April. Underwater visibility ranges from 5m Sea and the Gulf of Thailand. PADI and SSI are the main
to 30m or more during this period. From May to October the certification agencies, in both recreational and technical
southwest monsoon strikes this region, bringing in its wake diving tuition. There are also a number of BSAC, CMAS and
towering seas and strong currents and increased turbidity. NAUI training facilities along with IANTD, ANDI and TDI
for the ‘Tekkies’. Entry-level courses through to Instructor
Conversely, the dive sites in the Gulf of Thailand are at their programmes and specialities like cave diving and underwater
best during this season, with only minimal winds and light photography are widely available.
showers to disturb the tranquillity of the beaches and seas.
Visibility can sometimes equal that of the Andaman Sea Most of the larger and better-established dive operators
during this period. There are always dive sites on either maintain their equipment to high standards, with a good
side of the Isthmus that are sheltered enough to be dived selection of sizes. BCDs, masks, fins, regulator and pressure
whatever the weather so, if you find in the wrong place at the consoles are obtainable everywhere; however, wetsuits,
wrong time, don’t despair! diving computers and underwater cameras are generally
only available at the more established facilities.
Water temperatures in Thailand generally range from 27˚C to
31˚C. A thin wetsuit or lycra suit is recommended, not simply Renting equipment
for protection from exposure but also as a barrier to marine When you rent equipment − for your own safety and
hazards such as stinging cells which can be present. Oceanic comfort − you should remember to check the following:
sites (such as the Similans and the Burma Banks) are subject Buoyancy Control Device (BCD)
to sudden cold currents or thermoclines which can chill the • Select the correct size. The last thing you want is a
water by up to 10˚C and, although these temperature dips BCD that restricts your breathing because it is too tight.
are localized, most divers still prefer to don 3-4mm wetsuits Conversely, if it is too large, you may feel you are about to
for thermal protection. slip out of it.
Stand to attention, that nudibranch! • Select a style or make that you are familiar with and take
into consideration belts, buckles and fastenings.
• Check there are no leaks.
• Ensure that the low-pressure inflator connector is securely
tightened.
• Ensure that both the deflator and power inflator buttons
function correctly and do not stick.
Mask
• Ensure the mask fits correctly and does not leak.
• Check the skirt for damage or tears.
• Check the strap for signs of wear and tear. Bear in mind
that if you lose the mask you might have to pay for it.
• Ask for an optical mask if required. Some larger operators
carry a wide selection of prescription lenses.
Regulators
• Check ease of breathing through both regulators.
• Ensure regulators mouthpieces are in good condition and
that the bite lobes are okay.
• Purge regulator before putting it in your mouth – in the
tropics, you never know what might have crawled inside!
• Check the pressure gauge; satisfy yourself that it does not
stick.
Fins and booties
• Be careful to get the size right: too small can result in
cramp, too large and they may fall off.
50 51
LEARNING TO DIVE POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
LEARNING TO DIVE
in Thailand

“T
here’s never been a better time to learn to dive!” you All the top training agencies are omnipresent in Thailand
seem to hear it everywhere around Thailand these and, wherever there’s diving, there will be dive centres
days; in coastal resorts, on boats during passages to affiliated to one of them. Training comes under The British
coral fringed tropical islands and even in the larger cities! Sub Aqua Club (BSAC), The Professional Association of Diving
Instructors (PADI) and Scuba Schools International (SSI).
But when talking about taking that memorable first breath CMAS and Naui are here too, but with a much smaller
underwater, the sales pitch is not only inaccurate, it can be presence.
seen as intimidating − to say the least. A much better approach
is: “It’s always a great time to learn to dive in Thailand.” Why? Starting slowly
Simple. The water is clear and warm and filled with exciting Not everyone feels comfortable or has the time to jump
adventures and creatures to meet and explore. Golden in at the deep end and enrol in a multi-day commitment
opportunities arise all year round and your dive course will be without first getting a taste of the fun. But not to worry as,
fun and relaxing without the hustle and bustle of city life. in appreciation of this, the major training agencies offer
non-certified experience programmes. These are still under
What with great training facilities and calm and warm waters the guidance of a qualified dive professional and obviously
complemented by a second-to-none diversity of marine life, follow the highest of safety standards.
all readily available in many picture-postcard destinations,
this has to be one of the world’s top places to learn, continue Experiences range from taking that first breath underwater
learning or even create a career based around the planet’s in a swimming pool or just off the beach, to going on a dive
fastest growing recreational pastime of scuba diving. with an instructor in the open ocean. No corners are cut and
training covers all the basic skills needed to submerge and
Instruction is available in a number of forms, from freelance ascend safely. The only difference between these experience
instructors providing a small and personal service up to programmes and a certifying course is that, after completion,
five-star training centres with self-contained resort facilities you must still be accompanied by a diving professional at all
offering career development services allowing those who times and you cannot dive anywhere else. The advantage
want to learn to choose the style that best suits them. is that the course takes a short time and, even better, your
experience may count toward your certification (depending
Learning to dive is not something that can be self-taught. on the training agency) and you’ll be more than ready to sign
Instruction is essential and standard safety practices need up for a certifying course when time permits.
to be applied and upheld throughout, no matter the size of
operation. Thankfully this is the case in Thailand. There are For the family
also a number of award-winning facilities around the country As the interest and participation in scuba is on the increase,
proudly displaying their credentials − fine role models for images of black rubber-clad men immersing themselves
others to follow. in the abyss, whilst groups of ladies anxiously look on, are

Pre-dive briefing [photos x 2 courtesy of BSAC Thailand] In-water training starts in shallow & sheltered conditions

54 55
See listings on Pages 80 & 81
LEARNING TO DIVE POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
LEARNING TO DIVE
in Thailand

thankfully a vision of the past; nowadays the ladies are more


likely to be buddies! Diving couples have been coming to Originating in the UK, the
enjoy the tropical waters here for some time, some so regularly BSAC was formed in 1953,
that they’re now being accompanied by their families. making it the world’s largest
dive club, with 1,000s of branches and over 33,000
And the youngsters are not left out at all. Special programmes members worldwide, making it one of the most
give boys and girls aged eight years upwards the opportunity, experienced diving agencies.
under professional guidance, to enjoy an exciting scuba
The ethos of the BSAC is to train divers to a level where
experience whilst learning some cool underwater tricks into
they are competent to dive in UK waters. Courses are
the bargain. Programmes last around an hour or two in the safe
comprehensive in their content, but this doesn’t mean
surroundings of a swimming pool or similar water conditions
they are any more difficult to complete.
in a protected area, and are a great way to get the youngsters
hooked, either with or without their parents in tow! These Over the last few years the BSAC has been steadily
fabulous introductions to the underwater world are a great growing throughout Asia. There are now over 16 BSAC
way for kids to share valuable learning experiences, whilst centres in Thailand located both on the east and west
meeting new friends along the way, and are widely available coasts.
in all of Thailand’s diving destinations.
Learn more about the BSAC at: www.bsacthailand.com
Convenience PADI was founded in 1966. It is the
Thailand flaunts a comprehensive range of dive centres world’s largest recreational diving
and services, the majority in the southern provinces, membership organisation. The
but with several in Pattaya and Koh Chang too. There’s membership includes dive businesses,
also a small selection in Bangkok (generally branches or resort facilities, academic institutions,
booking offices). Having a city base is particularly useful instructor trainers, dive educators,
for providing academic and shallow in-water tuition to divers, snorkellers and other water
the local community or to those that have not yet reached sports enthusiasts.
their intended diving destination and are taking their time
checking out the city sights first. The one factor these Professional PADI members teach the vast majority of
dive centres all have in common is the equally impressive the world’s recreational divers, issuing approximately
selection of courses they offer. a million certifications every year, whilst maintaining
the highest industry standards for dive training, safety
For those working in full-time jobs and therefore tied up and customer service. The total number of PADI dive
during office hours, knowledge development training can be centres and resorts (IRRA Members) located worldwide
completed on line and practical training can be completed is approximately 5,300, with over 1,000 of these in the
Asia-Pacific region and over 250 located in Thailand.
A pair of students go through their Buddy Check [photo courtesy of BSAC Thailand]
SSI is a worldwide diver certification
agency and educational support
organisation and is recognised as an
innovative leader in diver education.
Founded in 1970, SSI provides state-of-
the-art training programmes, standards and materials
for all levels of diver education. Courses are flexible,
allowing instructors to tailor training to individual
students’ needs.
Permanent certification cards are issued at the dive
centre on completion of courses, which is handy for
long term travellers. The first SSI regional centre in
South East Asia opened in 1983 and is currently one of
over 2,000 facilities in over 90 countries.

58 59
See listings on Pages 144 & 158
LEARNING TO DIVE POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
LEARNING TO DIVE
in Thailand

in the evenings or over a weekend, whichever is most alongside those in other popular diving destinations around
convenient. Once the required skills and knowledge have the world. Very few compare favourably to Thailand.
been mastered, students can then be referred to an affiliated
branch or dive centre to complete the open water sections Courses
of the course, or any other uncompleted part of it for that At the end of the day, whichever training agency you adopt,
matter! they all operate to high safety standards.

Continuation does not need to be done immediately but there Entry level courses introduce students to the underwater
is a timescale involved; the instructor will advise how long the environment and how to comfortably adapt to the new-
completed training is valid for before it would need repeating. found surroundings, how to use the unfamiliar equipment
On a broader scale, this popular option of splitting the training and above all else – how to dive safely and relax.
(known as a referral) over more than one destination is
available internationally. On successful completion the newly certified divers are
qualified to dive unaccompanied by a diving professional, in
As long as all the training is completed within the designated the same conditions and to the maximum depth experienced
period and successful completion of the initial training can during training. However, with the great selection of dive
be proved, students from literally anywhere in the world centres around, you have the choice of joining any number
can complete their courses here, taking advantage of what of daily trips with the option of dives being led by trained
diving in Thailand has to offer, without committing to a full diving professionals.
course during their stay.
There’s no extra charge for this service as it’s included as
However, the majority of visitors opt to do the whole course standard in the dive trip price and it’s a great way to build
here – a sensible decision, as prices are extremely competitive confidence and familiarity for novice divers. Plus, if you don’t

Students repeating safety skills in the ocean [photo courtesy of SSI Thailand] [photo courtesy of PADI] Learning to dive is a fun experience

62 63
LEARNING TO DIVE POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
LEARNING TO DIVE
in Thailand

have a buddy, one will be provided for you. So now you’ve ‘Enriched Air Diver’. After all, dives are not likely to be cut
learnt to dive in warm and inviting waters, are seeing things short or be few and far between due to cold conditions!
you once could only dream of and are rapidly making new The list of speciality topics is endless; there are even special
friends – not a bad start really. It’s no wonder diving is so courses that have been individually written to suit the very
popular! surroundings. Just ask at the dive centre to find out what’s on
offer! But don’t expect to get signed up for any ice diving!
The next step is to fine-tune those skills already learned, and
be introduced to new ones. Advanced diving courses are Next on the list are rescue courses which should seriously
really great underwater adventures. Even though the term be mandatory for every diver. Course topics covered include
‘advanced’ may imply they are demanding and stressful – in self-rescue, problem management and how to help divers in
reality they are quite the opposite. stressful situations and, better still, how to avoid them in the
first place.
Safety and fun are high on the agenda and the results are
extremely rewarding. In fact, it’s surprising they aren’t As any diver will know, you should never dive without a
compulsory, especially as some dive sites are restricted to buddy unless trained to do so! But are you both actually
divers certified as advanced and above. capable of looking after each other? If not, then learn! The
rescue diver courses are great value in Thailand and are just
There’s a stream of associated speciality courses that open up as comprehensive as they are anywhere else in the world.
the chance to take the knowledge learned during advanced Certification requires CPR and First Aid training, which is also
training to an even more in-depth level. Thailand’s tropical available alongside the course. In a nutshell, what you learn is
waters make particular courses extremely attractive; for all you need to know in order to look after yourself and others,
instance, the warm waters are more appealing to deep and both under the water and on the surface during everyday life.
night diving enthusiasts; the water has been exposed to high So you might as well learn in comfort and at a good price.
levels of warming sunlight during the day, thus reducing the
likelihood of uncomfortable chilly encounters. The highest level of recreational diver certification is ‘Master
Scuba Diver’ or equivalent, depending on the training
The generally high water clarity opens up splendid vistas of agency’s certification title. To achieve this rating, or status,
colourful reefs and curious inhabitants, making ideal subject divers need to complete all the above courses and be certified
matter for underwater photographers and videographers, in a predetermined number of different specialities, as well as
two more popular choices of speciality dive courses on offer have completed a designated number of dives. There’s also a
at many of Thailand’s dive centres. ‘Junior Master Scuba Diver’ rating for the over 12-year-olds!

With such enjoyment on the cards, divers may wish to Thailand also provides a comprehensive range of technical
increase their safety levels and obtain the qualification of diving courses, from using enriched air up to diving on

Success - another happy qualified diver [photo courtesy of PADI] [photo courtesy of SSI Thailand] Underwater navigation is an invaluable skill to master

64 65
LEARNING TO DIVE POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
LEARNING TO DIVE
in Thailand

mixed gases and cave diving. The use of rebreathers is also


becoming more common. Without this type of training, Underwater Digital Photography Courses
a number of Thailand’s wrecks and deep reefs would be One ever-more-popular underwater pastime is
inaccessible to divers. There’s a handful of training agencies photography, albeit in the form of video or stills.
around Thailand that are solely dedicated to technical diving However, these days it’s becoming increasingly rare
and offer certification courses. to come across divers using film as their medium of
choice – it’s all going digital.
Becoming a Professional
Job done and it’s time to consider the world of the The demand for, and indeed the popularity of, this
professional diver and, yes, this does actually mean getting newly found medium is increasing at an exponential
paid to go diving and getting the chance to get all the cash rate, as is the technology itself. Just keeping up with the
invested in the courses back again – several times over! latest equipment releases and new terms introduced
on an almost daily basis is challenge enough!
The entry level course is the ‘Dive Master’ or, depending on It’s no wonder, then, that digital underwater
training agency, ‘Dive Leader’. These are extremely popular photography is a popular recreational diving course.
in Thailand. Courses run over a number of days and can be All the three training agencies listed on page 59 offer
certification courses in one form or another.
The ‘Giant Stride’ is a great way to enter the water from large boats
The entry level for the courses varies from absolute
beginner to those requiring advanced training in
image manipulation and editing techniques. In other
words, opportunities for all to benefit – including
professional photographers!

Photo courtesy of PADI


Both certification and non-certification courses are
also offered by a number of renowned underwater
photographers.
Dive THAILAND author, Paul Lees, is qualified to
provide courses under all three training agencies
and has also authored his own brand of photography
programme which is tailored to suit individual needs
at all levels, whether it be just guidance, advice,
critique or full hands-on training. To find out more
about Paul’s photography training programmes and
courses either visit his facebook page http://www.
facebook.com/Pauls.Photography.Programme or
email him at paul@pocketguideonline.com.

66 67
LEARNING TO DIVE POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
LEARNING TO DIVE
in Thailand

Many operators include complimentary accommodation


taught over a longer period, thus allowing participants to gain
for the duration of a diving course, especially for beginners.
some work experience along the way. As the whole focus of
However, a number of the larger centres have taken
the qualification is based around taking care and control of
things one step further and created tailor-made internship
others, rather than just to display a badge of completion, this
packages which, in some cases, include everything needed
is a great way to learn. And, with plenty of places in which do
to sign up as a non-diver and leave as a qualified diving
a course, it’s a popular option indeed.
professional complete with a job, either locally or in another
country!
Setting up a temporary base in one of the diving destinations
is not really a problem − more of a dream. The weather’s good,
These packages can also be joined at anytime during a
the food tasty, the social life usually relaxed and friendly −
diver’s career, no matter where they are qualification-wise;
and prices for everything are reasonable. In fact, the perfect
and, as they can include equipment and accommodation in
conditions in which take the next step of qualifying to be a
the overall ‘package’, it’s a great opportunity to focus on the
diving instructor.
matter in hand without all the worry of having to plan day-
to-day expenses and practicalities.
There are several levels of instructor, with the top of the ladder
being a ‘Course Director’ or ‘National Instructor’ depending
The standard of training is high, as is the essential advice on how
on which training agency you follow. Course Directors can’t
to survive in the diving industry after completion. Once again,
certify instructors; this is done by examiners from the actual
these centres are situated in all major diving destinations.
training agency itself. National Instructors, on the other hand,
are qualified to independently certify instructors themselves.
In fact the only thing difficult about learning to dive in
Thailand is deciding where to sign up!
Instructor courses, termed as Instructor Development
Courses, or IDCs for short, are scheduled on a regular basis,
as are the Instructor Examinations (IE).
Instructor training [Photo courtesy of BSAC Thailand]

68 69
DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
Phuket

2
3 5
4 6
7

10
• South African owned and managed
11 • Privately owned spacious day trip dive boat
12 • Offices in Chalong and Patong
• Visiting all popular dive sites in the Andaman Sea
• State of the art Bauer ‘Pure Air’ Compressors
• All food freshly prepared onboard by our Thai chef
Thailand’s largest island, Phuket, is the second most • Diving equipment for sale and rental
developed (after Pattaya) of the country’s tourist destinations • PADI Dive Center with training pool & classrooms
and is separated from the mainland by a narrow bridged • Complete range of PADI diving courses
strait. • Extensive dive deck with a lot of space for kitting up
• Relax on our air conditioned level and upper deck
The island’s west and south coastlines are liberally sprinkled
with beaches, many of them long, curving arcs of golden “We look forward to welcoming you aboard”
sand with mounds of boulders separating them from the
neighbouring beaches. With an international airport and
good transport links to the rest of the country, Phuket makes
a good base for exploring further afield or as the jumping-off
point for other popular destinations such as Khao Lak, Koh
Phi Phi and Koh Lanta.

Diving around Phuket


Phuket is the largest dive centre in Thailand and the
main base for liveaboards heading for destinations in the
Andaman Sea. For those not having the free time to join a
72 See listing on Page 82 73
DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - PHUKET
Phuket
dive boat to the sites further afield, all is not lost as there are 4 Koh Dok Mai
a few good dive sites off the shores of Phuket Island itself. Location: 10km west of Shark Point.
These local sites also open up opportunities for night diving Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 31m
and polishing up those diving skills. The east side of the island offers a wall rich in invertebrates
and a good representation of tube corals. There are large
Conditions improve considerably around the outcrops, moray eels, black-banded sea kraits, honeycomb groupers
islets and islands off the south of Phuket; the currents here and angelfish, and you’ve a good chance of seeing leopard
carry away algae and silt and the corals have more chance sharks out on the sand. Bivalves cling to sea whips along the
of flourishing. The reefs are generally in a healthy condition deeper sections of the wall, which also features two caves.
with good hard, as well as colourful soft, corals. Marine life is The walls and ceiling of the larger one are rich in soft corals,
plentiful, with visits from large pelagics adding spice to the but it’s best to remain outside, exploring the cave’s interior
diving. Some sites are quite deep with ripping currents often safely by torch light. The western side of the island features
present, but there are plenty of other locations suitable for all a steeply sloping reef rather than the sheer drops that
levels of both recreational and technical divers. dominate elsewhere. Black-tip and white-tip reef sharks can
be seen. There are healthy sea fans and barrel and encrusting
1 Meridien Reef sponges. Visiting pelagics often pass by.
Location: Between Patong and Karon Beaches.
Depth: Average 7m / Maximum 18m 5 Anemone Reef
This site has comparatively few hard and soft corals and fish-
Location: 30km east of Chalong Bay on Phuket.
life is only sporadically present – although you might discover
Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 26m
a blue-spotted ribbontail ray hiding beneath one of the rocks,
Anemone Reef is a small submerged rocky plateau about 4-7m
and very occasionally may encounter a small white-tip reef
deep at the shallowest parts. The top of the reef is smothered
shark. However, the site is a very good one for training or for
in sea anemones; there are many resident clownfish, shrimps
introducing new divers to scuba: students can concentrate on
and porcelain crabs. Elsewhere you find large clusters of soft
learning to dive, without their attention being distracted by
corals and enormous gorgonian sea fans – the latter sheltering
deep waters, strong currents or too many fish!
dense groupings of Indian lionfish. There’s a healthy cross-
section of marine life. At its deepest point a solitary rock is
2 Kata House Reef home to a number of juvenile moray eels.
Location: Western end of Kata Beach.
Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 12m
6 Shark Point
Entry to the site off the beach brings you to the fringing
Location: 1km southeast of Anemone Reef.
reef, at a depth of 5m. As you follow it around the headland
Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 24m
the depth gradually increases to 12m. This is a training and
This site was named for the leopard sharks that are often found
introduction site similar to meridian reef, but shallower
either resting on the sandy sections around the perimeter of
and slightly more enjoyable. Barracuda, tuna, and trevally
the main structure or freely swimming around the surrounding
are often present. The reef just breaks the surface in low
waters. Three pinnacles are dense with colourful marine
water. Blue-spotted ribbontail rays and white-tip reef sharks
life, from impressive sea fans to honeycomb groupers,
are sometimes seen. Reef-fish are present but tend to be
vivid encrusting sponges, moray eels, lobsters, lionfish and
scattered over the area rather than dominating particular
harlequin ghost pipefish. Slightly to the west of the northern
areas. The site is accessible during inclement weather
pinnacle is a large, spectacular arch saturated in the brilliant
conditions and suitable for night-diving enthusiasts.
colours of the soft corals growing on its surfaces. The reefs
here also display bushy black corals, sea whips and gorgonian
3 Koh Pu sea fans, with barracuda, snapper, trevally and mackerel all
Location: Approx 1km west of Kata House Reef.
patrolling the fringes.
Depth: Average 18m / Maximum 24m
The island is fringed with fallen rocks; these are larger around 7 King Cruiser Wreck
the northwest area, and are the main feature of the site.
Location: 1 km southeast of Anemone Reef.
The gaps between some of the rocks offer swim-throughs;
Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 32m
beneath the rocks are heaps of broken oyster shells, obscure
In 1997 the King Cruiser, a car ferry operating between Phuket
nudibranchs and a few cowrie shells. There are no pelagics or
and Koh Phi Phi, bottomed on Anemone Reef, splitting it in
big fish of note, but you’re likely to see small schools of fusiliers
two. The impact also tore a large hole in the vessel’s hull.
and snappers, moorish idols, squirrelfish and rabbitfish.
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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - PHUKET
Phuket
The sunken vessel attracts a high diversity of marine life; of encountering mating cuttlefish along with a greater display
invertebrates have taken up residence and juvenile reef fish of reef creatures, including good-sized titan triggerfish, moray
hover around the now barnacle-encrusted frame. Daylight eels and octopus; plus on a smaller scale, a better selection of
penetrates the majority of the wreck, though there are some colourful fish and invertebrates. Leopard sharks and hawksbill
areas that can only be explored with an artificial light source. turtles are occasionally seen around this coastline.
Beware that quite a few areas have collapsed ceilings – these
should not be entered at all. 11 Koh Racha Noi – Northern Tip
Location: Approximately two hours from Chalong Bay.
8 Coral Island Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 30m
Location: Outer of two islands south of Chalong Bay. A reasonable multi-level dive site, which takes divers around
Depth: Average 14m / Maximum 20m pinnacles and large rocks. There’s a fair display of hard and
The south of the island is the best area to dive at this primarily soft corals and the usual reef-fish are present in reasonable
training site, not only in terms of safety (no threat from erratic quantities. If you’re lucky you should be able to sight small
jet-skiers!) but also because there’s a more diverse presence reef sharks, but the main attraction is probably the presence
of marine life, plus it displays the healthiest corals which are of large bullethead parrotfish. However, diving here can be
mainly foliaceous interspersed with bubble, staghorn and star. extremely hazardous because of the hostile currents under
no circumstances should this site be attempted by any but
9 Koh Racha Yai – Bungalow Bay experienced divers.
Location: 90 minutes from Chalong Bay.
Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 30m 12 Koh Racha Noi – Southern Tip
This site can be split; you can opt to follow either of the bay’s Location: Just over two hours from Bay Chalong Bay.
shorelines. The rocky formations visible above the surface Depth: Average 23m / Maximum 40m+
continue underwater, with a good presence of reef-fish. This is a great dive for experienced divers – in fact, good
Around the rocks swim surgeonfish and fusiliers, while below operators will bring only divers of advanced level and above!
you can see inquisitive paired goatfish, nudibranchs, urchins The underwater terrain is similar to that around the island’s
and plenty of blue-spotted ribbontail rays. northern tip, but much deeper – the shallowest part of
any consequence is at 18m. Fine soft corals highlight the
10 Koh Racha Yai – Eastern Coast smooth-sided boulders. Crinoids and featherstars are well
Location: 90 minutes from Chalong Bay. represented. There are fairly plentiful, reasonably sized
Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 22m fish, including lionfish, parrotfish, wrasse and triggerfish, as
This is a popular diving destination and is suitable for all levels well as large visiting pelagics such as barracuda, rainbow
of diver. There’s also enjoyable snorkelling around the rocks runners and trevally. Manta and marbled rays are frequently
in the shallow waters off the island’s coastline. The shallower seen here, as are whale sharks – although with slightly less
sections of the reef feature tables and smaller examples regularity. All in all, this site can be compared with some sites
of leaf corals; the deeper waters have similar species, but found around Mu Koh Similan Marine National park.
larger. There are many featherstars, lionfish, puffers and a few
parrotfish and wrasse. The site’s southern end has the bonus SHARK POINT MARINE SANCTUARY
Harlequin ghostpipefish Shark Point Marine Sanctuary consists of Shark Point
and Anemone Reef, 1km to the north-west. Since 1997
it has included the wreck of the King Cruiser car ferry.
Designated a Marine Sanctuary in 1992, the sheer
profusion of marine life here is justification enough for
protected status. The marine park zone covers a radius
of 2.5km around the western limit of Shark Point and
all commercial fishing, collecting of marine life, or other
harmful activity is prohibited.
Official mooring buoys have been installed but if they
are in use (which is often the case, given the popularity
of these sites), divers must execute a live-boat dive. On
no account should anchors be dropped here.

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DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - PHUKET
Phuket

ALL 4 DIVING ALL 4 DIVING ACADAMEY


Patong Beach Patong Beach
Tel. +66 (0)76 344611 Tel. +66 (0)76 341595
Fax. +66 (0)76 343015 Fax. + 66 (0)76 342510
e. info@all4diving.com
w. www.all4diving.com
e. info@seaworld-phuket.com, w. www.seaworld-phuket.com
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental
Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental
Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
Being a member of the Andaman Diving Group, All 4 Diving
take care of their visitors and guests from the moment they With its motto of, “Our first priority is your satisfaction”, All
arrive on Phuket until departure. 4 Diving Academy by Sea World Dive Team is a member of
the Andaman Diving Team, and is a 5 Star PADI IDC Center
This is the largest and most comprehensive dive centre located right in the heart of Patong Beach. Sea World Dive
on the island and is run by divers for divers. All of the Team is an Aqualung Partner Center.
knowledgeable staff are either Thai Nationals or long-time
Phuket residents who combined, are more than capable of The professional, multilingual team of diving instructors
helping with virtually all aspects of diving in Thailand. regularly schedules the full range of diving courses, from
beginner up to, and including, the professional level of
All 4 Diving provides an extensive range of liveaboard and instructor. All courses are conducted in the centre’s air-
day trip diving options, as well as conducting the full range conditioned classrooms with the in-water training modules
of PADI dive courses. On top of all that the centre has the taking place in the purpose built on-site training pool.
largest retail selection in the country, which includes most As well as organising day-trip diving to all the best local
major and popular brands, all of which can be promptly sites, Sea World Dive Team offers liveaboard excursions
serviced at the onsite service centre. to all the prime diving destinations in the Andaman Sea,
including Thailand’s legendary Similan Islands and the Mergui
Archipelago to the west of Myanmar (Burma). Trips are also
scheduled around the diving Mecca of Komodo in Indonesia.

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DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - PHUKET
Phuket

ANDAMAN OCEAN SAFARIS INDEPTH DIVE COLLEGE (IDC)


Chalong Chalong
Tel. +66 (0)76 383988 Tel. +66 (0)81 862 8267
Fax. +66 (0)76 383989 Tel/fax. +66 (0)76 384381
e. info@idcphuket.com,
e. info@andamanoceansafaris.com chris@indepth-instruction.com
w. www.andamanoceansafaris.com w. www.idcphuket.com
www.indepth-instruction.com
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental
Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation Indepth Dive College PADI 5* IDC S-36108, formed in 2002,
is owned and managed by British PADI Course Director Chris
With offices in Chalong and Patong, Andaman Ocean Safaris
Owen, with 19 years experience of diving and managing dive
is a South African owned and managed dive centre with
centres in both the Gulf of Thailand and on the Andaman coast.
its own training facility, including a diver training pool and
Chris has been conducting hugely successful PADI Instructor
classrooms.
Development Courses and scuba diving internship packages
They are fully licensed with the Tourism Authority of Thailand for over 10 years and offers a full range of PADI, DAN and DSAT
and carry comprehensive insurance for all their customers. courses from beginner up to Instructor in most languages.
PADI dive courses are also on offer as well as an extensive
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental
range of diving equipment for sale and for rent.
Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation | Tech diving
Daily diving charters all offer three dives aboard their
privately owned dive boat Chok Som Boon, which carries up Indepth Dive College (IDC) is located in Chalong and consists
to 45 passengers in the utmost comfort. of a purpose built dive centre with uniquely designed state
of the art classrooms, complete with full multimedia support
Dive trips range from the magnificent Phi Phi islands to the using the very latest instructional tools and technology.
beauty of Racha Noi and Racha Yai and all food is freshly Indepth Dive College (IDC) works with a Dive Resort only
prepared onboard daily by their Thai chef. minutes away with a purpose-built 3m deep training pool to
offer you the very best scuba diving training available.
Andaman Ocean Safaris is proud to offer high levels of safety
equipment, including two 25-man life rafts and ‘Bauer Pure Air’ IDC offers a complete range of daily dive trips to the
with Securus monitoring providing the purest air possible. surrounding dive sites, including Phi Phi, as well as liveaboard
trips to suit all budgets.
Speed boat trips and kayaking tours are also available.

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DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - PHUKET
Phuket

MERMAID LIVEABOARDS SCUBA CAT DIVING


Patong Beach Patong Beach
Booking Centre Tel. +66 (0)76 293120/121
+66 (0)76 344612 Fax. +66 (0)76 293122
Hotline e. info@scubacat.com
+66 (0)87 274 8348 w. www.scubacat.com
e. info@mermaid-liveaboards.com Scuba Cat Diving was established
w. www.mermaid-liveaboards.com in 1992. Under British ownership, with a multinational
management team running the day-to-day operations, the
Instruction | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental | Snorkelling company operates as a PADI 5 Star CDC Center, Go ECO Operator
Accommodation and Reef Check Centre. Its goal is to provide a specialised quality
Mermaid Liveaboards – Asia’s premier liveaboard fleet – owns service in relaxed, friendly surroundings and to ensure guests
and operates two liveaboard vessels, M/V Mermaid I and M/V get the most out of their holiday all year round.
Mermaid II. Large spacious dive decks and dive platforms are a
treat. Photographers are catered for with large rinse tubs and Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental
camera tables on the deck. Both vessels are equipped with Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
full safety equipment, dinghies and life rafts. Air-conditioned If you want to further your dive education, Scuba Cat regularly
comfort, sundecks, saloon and party deck with lounges and schedules the full range of PADI Courses from Bubble Maker
restaurant-style dining. Mermaid, a member of the Andaman for the kiddies, right up to the professional certification of
Diving Group, offers a choice of CMAS & PADI diver training. Instructor, with either of their two resident Course Directors,
Combine this luxury with the experienced dive crew and you one of whom is an award winning PADI Platinum Course
will enjoy a liveaboard trip of a lifetime. Director. They also run special underwater photography
workshops for those wishing to top up their shooting skills!
Scheduling offers a choice of cruises from 2 days/3 nights
up to 9 days/9 nights; you can combine cruises to enjoy a Scuba Cat has two liveaboard boats. Enjoy the world-
discount and the best diving throughout the Andaman renowned Similan Islands following your own personal
Sea at sites including the Similans, Richelieu Rock, Mergui schedule onboard MV Scuba Cat or join a regular excursion on
Archipelago and Hin Daeng, Phi Phi and Koh Ha to the south. MV Scuba Adventure, which includes the sites further afield.
Or join a trip in Indonesia which departs from Bali every
Saturday from June to October to dive Nusa Tenggara and
Komodo, including walking with Komodo Dragons in the
World Heritage Komodo National Park.

84 85
DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - PHUKET
Phuket

SEA BEES DIVING WATER WORLD ASIA


Chalong Patong Beach
Tel. +66 (0)76 381765 Tel. +66 (0)76 342511
Fax. +66 (0)76 280467 Fax. +66 (0)76 342512
e. info@sea-bees.com e. info@waterworldasia.com
w. www.sea-bees.com w. www.waterworldasia.com
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox Water World Asia is centrally located
Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation on Rat-U-Thit road in the heart of Patong, with friendly and
professional staff to welcome you to probably Thailand’s
The Sea Bees international team of dive guides and instructors largest and most complete dive centre.
are highly experienced and trained to the highest standards.
Each has a minimum of 250 dives, so divers are in safe hands. Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox
Also, their knowledge of the local dive sites and aquatic life is Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Service Centre
second to none. Sea Bees has a fleet of six dive boats which are
individually kitted out for day trips or liveaboard excursions. They provide daily trips to divers and snorkellers to all the local
sites by speedboat or large dive boat. Liveaboard excursions
The comprehensive dive centre in Chalong is equipped to the Similan and Surin Islands and Myanmar (Burma) to
with a customer service centre, comfortable reception area, the north as well as Koh Haa, Hin Daeng and Hin Mouang to
workshop, and equipment room where guests can store their the south, depart on a near daily basis between October and
own equipment. April, giving the option to join a selection of trips.
Their resort, the Palm Garden Resort is unique in that was built As a PADI 5 Star Center they offer courses from a SCUBA
to house the See Bees Dive Academy which offers a complete experience through to professional levels. With courses starting
range of courses from beginner to a variety of Instructor every day, they can give professional advice on how to start
qualifications. The Acadamy has its own purpose-built 3m diving as well as continuing diving education – personalising
training pool with four air-conditioned classrooms complete programmes to get the most out of your time in Phuket.
with full multimedia support.
With a full selection of all major brands of diving and snorkelling
equipment and accessories in their 350m2 dive centre, you can
be sure of the best advice on equipment. Qualified technicians
also carry out servicing of all major brands.

86 87
DIRECTORY POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIRECTORY - PHUKET
Phuket
How to get there two full tanks, weight system and – if required – Divemaster
Phuket can be reached directly by air, road and sea. services. Equipment rental and Nitrox fills can be extra. Divers
who have been out of the water for over six months either
By air: It’s possible to directly access the island’s international follow a refresher course or accompany an instructor during
airport from a number of neighbouring countries, or via their first dive; there’s a minimal charge for this important
Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Bangkok’s and necessary service.
Don Muang Airport also operates flights to Phuket.
Liveaboard excursions
A few budget airlines serve the Bangkok–Phuket route but Many divers come to Phuket for the selection of liveaboard
timetables change regularly. There are also direct flights excursions, giving access to far-off dive sites. Excursion
between Koh Samui and Pattaya. The three main carriers are: styles differ, but all share high standards. Prices include
Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside diving, meals/snacks and accommodation, but not alcoholic
Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Nok Air: Within Thailand, beverages or scuba equipment.
Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai
Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111.
Hospitals
By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok’s Bangkok Hospital Phuket, in Phuket City
Southern Bus Terminal daily to Phuket City. Trip time is 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from
around 14 hours. At Phuket City bus terminal visitors continue outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 254425
their journeys by taxi or local bus, unless a pick-up by their Phuket International Hospital, on by-pass road, between
dive operator has been arranged. For further information on Tesco Lotus & Central Festival
bus services, contact Bangkok Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. Emergency Ambulance: Tel. +66 (0)76 210935
+66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200.
Recompression chambers
Where to eat Badalveda Diving Medicine Network in Bangkok
Hospital Phuket, Phuket City
There are countless restaurants across the island; for the
Diving Medicine Hotline
best up-to-date information on the island’s eateries, look
Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482
for Image Asia’s comprehensive publication Where to Eat in
vedainfo@badalveda.com | www.badalveda.com
Phuket. It’s also an online at: www.wheretoeat-phuket.com.
Hyperbaric Services of Thailand, in Phuket International
For more information and insight on where and what to eat, Hospital
see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of Hotline Tel. +66 (0)89 871 2335
2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com

Dive facilities Dive courses


Scuba diving here is big business. The larger centres cater Local diver training follows BSAC, CMAS, PADI and SSI systems.
for divers from all over the world; courses and dive trips are The majority of internationally-recognised certifications are
generally supervised by multilingual staff, but English remains accepted in any of the dive centres; certification cards and log
the main language. Several larger centres provide a transfer books will be requested. The course price structures are mostly
service to and from Phuket International Airport. the same at different operators. The open water sections of
the courses can be completed locally or amalgamated with a
Dive Trips liveaboard excursion.
There are two main types of dive trip available. All operators Generally prices are inclusive of instruction, study materials,
run daily trips, and the larger, more established, schedule equipment, dive trips and certification. Introduction courses
regular liveaboard excursions on their own boats around the include full equipment, whereas other courses are inclusive of
Similan and Surin island groups and the Mergui Archipelago. tanks and weight systems only. Additional equipment can be
Some arrange short excursions to southern destinations rented from all centres at a discounted price. You’ll need two
around Koh Rok and Hin Daeng. passport sized photographs for certification in all courses.
All these trips differ in style and duration with enough
variations to suit anyone. Daily dive trip prices include transfers For more information on Phuket, contact Tourism Authority of
to and from resorts, light refreshments and beverages, lunch, Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036
88 89
DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE
DIVE CENTRES
DIVE THAILAND

Khao Lak Khao Lak

IQ DIVE
Khao Lak
Tel. +66 (0)76 485614
Page 105 Fax. +66 (0)76 485613
Page 106 e. info@iq-dive.com
w. www.iq-dive.com
iQ-DIVE is a PADI 5 Star Dive School
located in the centre of Khao Lak,
opposite McDonald’s, just 80 km
north of Phuket International Airport, and offers scuba diving
Page 104 and snorkelling day-trips, overnight and Live aboard cruises
to the famous Similan Islands, Koh Bon, Koh Tachai, Richelieu
Rock, Myanmar (Burma) and of course the complete PADI
educational programme from beginner to pro-level.
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox
Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
Page 104
iQ-DIVE, successfully operating in Khao Lak, on Thailand’s
West coast, since 1996, is managed by Swiss scuba instructor
Ernst Schläpfer and his Thai wife, Meaw. Their fleet consists of
two boats: A fast 23-metre day trip boat visiting the Similan
Islands, Koh Bon and Koh Tachai and a traditional Thai Longtail
boat that visits nearby Boonsung, Premchai, the Sea Chart
Wreck and Khao Na Yak reef just outside Taplamu harbour.
Page 98
iQ-Dive’s professional and very experienced team of
multilingual PADI Instructors and dive masters will assure
that all of your dives are safe and most joyful experiences.

Khao Lak Marine National Park boasts 12km of casuarinas and


palm fringed coastline. Behind the glorious beaches are palm
and rubber plantations, which continue to meet green foothills
and mountainous terrain divided by cascading waterfalls.

One thing that sets Khao Lak aside from many other seaside
destinations is that you don’t have to cross a road to reach
the beach! Tourism is slowly but surely taking off here,
particularly for divers, which is hardly surprising as some of
the county’s best diving is right on its doorstep.

Diving around Khao Lak


The majority of diving trips offered here visit the sites around
the Mu Koh Similan and Surin Marine National Parks in the
form of both day trips and liveaboard excursions, with the
latter also being offered to the Mergui Archipelago.

There are also a couple of wrecks of tin mining boats; the


‘Boonsong’ lies just off the coast and can be a real treat to
dive. All manner of marine life can be encountered from tiny
and endemic nudibranchs up to, on the odd occasion, whale
sharks. The second wreck, the ‘Premchai’, lies upside down
but remains in one piece allowing penetration.

90 91
DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - KHAO LAK
Khao Lak

SEA BEES DIVING SEA DRAGON DIVE CENTER


Khao Lak Khao Lak
Tel. +66 (0)76 485174 Tel. +66 (0)76 485420
Fax. +66 (0)76 485175 Fax. +66 (0)76 485418
e. khaolak@sea-bees.com
w. www.sea-bees.com
e. info@seadragondivecenter.com
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox w. www.seadragondivecenter.com
Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Gear rental
Sea Bees Khao Lak’s all-inclusive service includes a unique Retail | Snorkelling
way of diving the Similans, onboard their own spacious Founded in 1993, Sea Dragon is Khao Lak’s longest established
catamaran providing fast and comfortable day trips to dive centre. They own and operate a fleet of boats ranging
the island group. The trips, and also multi-day liveaboard from a luxury day trip boat to a selection of liveaboards
excursions, onboard M/V Genesis, conveniently depart visiting the Similan & Surin Island Marine National Parks -
from nearby Thap Lamu. The staff here all have a minimum Thailand’s finest dive sites.
of 250 dives and are highly experienced and trained to the
uppermost standards so divers are in safe hands. Sea Dragon’s three unique liveaboards were specifically
designed and refurbished to reflect their individual
The comprehensive dive centre supports its resort in Khao characters and offer a choice of five different trips ranging
Lak, the Palm Garden Resort, which has comfortable rooms, from 3-6 days, with an emphasis on high safety standards,
a good restaurant and purpose-built diver training pool, personalised service and lots of fun.
making it a great base either before or after liveaboard
excursions. It is also an ideal place for the whole family, Additionally they offer a selection of day dive trip packages
particularly if anyone is undertaking training, which is done to local reef and wrecks, including Similan day trips onboard
on site. Courses from beginner to a variety of instructor their spacious and comfortable boat, the Nam Sai. And for
qualifications are all regularly scheduled. those who wish to begin or advance their diving, the friendly
and professional staff at this custom built PADI 5 Star IDC
Center conduct the full range of PADI dive courses in many
languages, from beginner through to Instructor.

92 93
DIVE CENTRES
Khao Lak

SIAM ADVENTURE DIVERS


Khao Lak
Office Tel.
+66 (0)76 486366
Hotline.
+66 (0)81 874 3262
Fax. +66 (0)76 486365
e. info@siamadventuredivers.com
w. www.siamadventuredivers.com
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox
Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling
Siam Adventure Divers is a British owned and operated
company that has been servicing the diving community,
and in fact all water enthusiasts, for over seven years in
and around Thai waters. They have continually changed to
accommodate the styles of all water activities and adopt
flexible schedules in order to fit in with their guests’ budgets
and, just as importantly, their travel plans.
From November through May, Siam Adventures have an
array of vessels to transport divers and holiday-makers
to the tropical paradise of the Similan islands. The range
of packages on offer includes speedboat transfers and
snorkelling trips, day-boat diving, overnight packages and
liveaboard safaris to both the Similan islands & the Mergui
Archipelago in Myanmar.

94
DIRECTORY POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIRECTORY - KHAO LAK
Khao Lak
How to get there Dive facilities
Khao Lak can be reached directly by road and indirectly by air. Scuba diving here is very popular. To cater for the high demand
there’s is a string of dive centres along the main highway,
Phuket, the main gateway to the area, is a 90-minute drive many of which have booking offices or their own facilities in
away. Phuket’s international airport is directly accessible from the larger hotels and resorts. Several centres provide their
most neighbouring countries, or via Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi own, or can arrange, transfers to and from Phuket and Krabi.
International Airport. Domestic flights are also scheduled
between Phuket and Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport. Dive trips
Both daily trips and multi-day liveaboard excursions visit
By air: A few budget airlines serve the Bangkok–Phuket route the sites around Mu Koh Similan and Surin Marine National
but their timetables change regularly. There are also direct Parks as well as the local wrecks and the Mergui Archipelago.
flights between Koh Samui and Pattaya. The three main All trips include transfers to and from resorts, tanks, weight
carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; system and Divemaster services, light refreshments and
from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5678. Nok Air: Within beverages. Day trips include lunch.
Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900
9955. Thai Airways International: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111.
Hospitals & Recompression Chambers
By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok’s Bangkok Hospital Phuket has a permanent ambulance
Southern Bus Terminal daily to the bus terminal in Phuket stationed in Khao Lak which serves the area. Tel. 1719
City. Trip time is around 14 hours. At Phuket City bus terminal The nearest recompression chambers are those on
visitors may continue their journeys by taxi or local bus, unless Phuket. For details see page 88.
a pick-up by their dive operator has been arranged. For further
information on bus services contact Bangkok Southern Bus
Dive courses
Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200.
The full range of PADI and SSI programmes, up to and
Where to eat including the professional level of Instructor, are available and
in several languages. Prices generally include instruction, study
The majority of local hotels and resorts have their own eateries
materials, equipment, dive trips and certification. The in-water
with international and local menus. However, those wishing
sections of the courses can be completed during day trips or
to sample the local fare outside of these will find a range of
amalgamated with a liveaboard excursion. The majority of
worthy bakeries, restaurants, coffee shops and snack bars
internationally-recognised certifications are accepted in any
along the main highway running parallel to the beach.
of the dive centres; certification cards and log books will be
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, requested as proof of certification and experience.
see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of
2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com For more information on Khao Lak, contact Tourism
Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036.
Bang Niang beach, Khao Lak

96 97
DIVE SITES
Mu Koh Similan

1
2
3

5 11

6
10

This archipelago of nine granitic islands sits 90km northwest


of Phuket. The islands cover an area of about 128 sq km,
featuring lush rainforests inhabited by squirrels and bats and
a variety of bird-life.

There are two staffed park offices (on Islands #4 and #8), but
otherwise the islands are uninhabited.

Two dive sites around the northern islands of Koh Bon and
Koh Tachai are also included in this section.

A noticeable characteristic of the Similans is the contrast


between the east and west coastlines. The east is subject to
the relatively gentle north-easterly monsoons, and features
superb sandy beaches and sheltered bays. The western
coasts, however, experience the full force of the harsh south-
westerly monsoons and are more commonly characterized
by rugged weather-beaten boulders, a pattern that continues
underwater.

98 See listing on Page 84


DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - SIMILANS
Mu Koh Similan
Diving around the Similans 1 North Point
The Similans can certainly lay claim to being one of the Asia Location: The northern apex of island #9.
Pacific’s top dive destinations. The dramatic underwater Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 34m
terrain is highlighted by thriving reefs and abundant soft The walls and sides of large boulders are highlighted by
corals, and the tremendous diversity of marine life includes radiant soft corals. Around these are numerous parrotfish of
many of the more exciting, larger pelagics. all sizes, small dog-faced pufferfish and larger solitary clown
triggerfish. Sharing the area are mixed amounts of leafy, brain,
During late March and early April, Thailand’s hottest period, slipper and lip corals. Further down, giant sea cucumbers and
rising sea temperatures cause plankton blooms, which attracts blue seastars decorate the rocky surfaces. The prolific fish-
a wealth of the larger animals into the area, resulting in life includes varieties of butterflyfish, parrotfish, lionfish and
chance encounters with, amongst others, schooling chevron wrasse. To the north, manta rays and barracuda are frequent.
barracuda, giant trevally, rainbow runners and reef sharks.
There’s also a selection of rays including eagle, marbled and 2 Breakfast Bend
enormous but graceful manta. Location: South-eastern apex of island #9.
Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 34m
In general, the east-facing dive sites feature gently Breakfast Bend is so-called because it is generally the first
sloping reefs and drop-offs with impressive gardens of sea dive on a live-aboard excursion – after breakfast! The western
anemones, flourishing hard and soft corals, and teeming fish section is relatively shallow, averaging 8m; its sandy bottom
populations. With negligible currents and mostly moderate is punctuated with scattered rocks. Southeast of here are
depths, these sites are suitable for any level of diver. The the beginnings of a reef flat, primarily staghorns; these
sheltered conditions are also ideal for snorkelling. eventually achieve garden-like proportions. They are bigger
but much less frequent on the steep reef-slope.
The archipelago’s western sites are quite the opposite. Here
giant boulders tumble down to the seabed in depths of 40m The reef-slope – also formed by small boulders and coral
or more. Currents have kept the gaps between the boulders shelves, with many branches of tree, leafy and brain corals.
free from build-ups of sand, leading to the development of Moorish idols, raccoon butterflyfish and Indian lionfish –
tunnels, archways and caverns that provide exciting swim- paired rather than solitary – are all present en masse. Colonies
throughs. The currents also provide nutrients for masses of of garden eels can be seen on the sandy patches. The seabed
gorgonians, crinoids, sea fans and lush soft corals. has widespread coral mounds.

The Similans are dived as both multi-day liveaboard 3 Donald Duck Bay
excursions and daily dive trips, scheduled from Phuket and Location: In the small sheltered bay on the northwest coast
Khao Lak. For details of dive centres, see pages 80-87 (Phuket) of island #8.
and 91-94 (Khao Lak). Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 14m
Common garden eel A popular night diving site. Scattered coral mounds and
boulders provide sleeping quarters for a host of marine life,
but their formation forces the nocturnal creatures into areas
of open sand in search of sustenance. Thus night-divers can
observe them with much greater ease and frequency and in
larger numbers. Attracted by the lights of dive boats, cuttlefish
and squid are often everywhere. Crabs, small lobsters and a
wealth of other invertebrates scurry across the sand at night.

4 Beacon Beach
Location: The reef spans the length of the south-eastern
coastline of island #8, about 200m offshore.
Depth: Average 12-18m / Maximum 34m
The reef-flat is in just over 5m and features many small
boulders of lesser star and brain corals, interspersed with
familiar clusters of staghorns, all rich in colourful reef-fish like
damsels, wrasse, parrotfish and surgeonfish, as well as large
numbers of inquisitive triggerfish.
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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - SIMILANS
Mu Koh Similan
To the north are areas of foliaceous corals, such as lettuce 7 East of Eden
and carnation, with many colourful reef-fish: bird and lunar Location: South-eastern fringing reef of island #7.
wrasse, powder-blue surgeonfish, squirrelfish, soldierfish Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 34m
and Indian lionfish are all plentiful. The bottom is punctuated This is a steep sloping hard coral reef consisting of mostly hard-
with large, impressive coral mounds and rocks, which are coral laminates. Unusually for an east-facing reef, there are
covered with soft corals in diverse hues, encrusting sponges soft corals in the shallower waters at about 12m. Also on view
and various tubeworms and featherstars. are schools of snappers and fusiliers, and occasionally turtles
and leopard sharks. There’s a stunning bommie (coral head)
5 Beacon Point in the middle of the reef, starting in around 9m and going
Location: The southern extension of Beacon Beach Reef. down to 30m; it features one of the finest concentrations of
Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 55m corals in the Similans and should not be missed.
The site is very like Beacon Beach Reef but with more fish
and larger corals, especially in the deeper waters. Also, you 8 Shark Fin Reef
have a good chance of seeing manta and eagle rays, plus Location: Around the rocks that break the water at low tide;
large pelagics, in the deeper southern waters, away from 3km southeast of island #3.
the headland. The reef-flat features many small boulders of Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 40m
lesser star and brain corals, interspersed with familiar clusters The north-eastern side features a sloping reef, whereas the
of staghorn corals, all rich in colourful reef-fish like chromis, south-western side is a more dramatic sheer drop-off: rocks
wrasse, parrotfish and surgeonfish. The coral cover remains resembling fallen hexagonal pillars, are the highlight of this
constant around the apex, with individuals increasing in size side of the site. At the south-eastern end of these formations
with depth – especially gorgonian sea fans at about 30m. is a large swim-through; this provides an almost purpose-
built opening to the site’s opposite side. Large Napoleon
6 Elephant Head wrasse have also been seen around this section as have
Location: The giant rocky outcrop off island #8’s southern tip. passing sharks and rays.
As you approach the site from the west the outcrop resembles
a partially submerged elephant – hence the name. 9 Boulder City
Depth: Average 24m / Maximum 70m Location: Immediately south of Shark Fin Reef.
Huge boulders, some with frames measuring over 30m, sit Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 32m
individually or are stacked to form daring swim-throughs The site consists of a collection of enormous submerged
comprising arches, caverns, gullies and tunnels at all depths. granite boulders running southeast-northwest, which are
more typical of a west-facing coastal rock formation. They
There’s plenty of marine life residing in the site’s shallower fancifully resemble rocky mountains separated by wide
sections. Around the boulders are angelfish, triggerfish and valleys, their sheer sides punctuated occasionally by clusters
schools of fusiliers and juvenile snappers. This is an ideal of soft coral and radiant crinoids; with small crevices housing
place for spotting small reef sharks. a diversity of marine life.
Donald Duck Bay on Koh Similan

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DIVE SITES DIVE SITES
Mu Koh Similan Mu Koh Surin
10 Koh Bon
Location: Off the south west corner of Koh Bon.
Depth: Average 21m / Maximum 40m
The island’s perimeter here takes the form of a series of small
wall-like sections which drop to meet a fringing reef at 32m
before sharply dropping to 40m to reach gently sloping
sand. Huge sponges and sea fans can be found along the
reef in depths of 30-40m.

The wall sections are covered with a mixture of sea anemones


encrusting sponges and sea whips. Concealed within the
narrow rocky gorges and crevices are octopus, resting
cuttlefish, and coral trout being attended to at one of the
many cleaning stations around this site. On closer inspection
a variety of cleaner shrimps can be witnessed as they tend to
their willing hosts.

To the southwest a splendid reef tapers down to the sites


1
maximum depth and is covered in corals teeming with
marine life. This is also a great location for regular encounters 2
with manta rays and leopard sharks.
3
11 Koh Tachai
Location: 40km south of Koh Surin Tai.
Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 30m
This submerged plateau is divided into three reefs, each
dominating a different depth with different structures and
reef inhabitants. Mu Koh Surin Marine National Park is located 80km due west
of Ranong Province along Thailand’s west coast.
Off the island’s southern point, two submerged pinnacles The largest island is Koh Surin Nua which has an area of
stand proud of many large boulders and smaller rocks, 19 sq. km and a highest point 240m above sea level. To its
providing great swim-throughs. This, the southernmost area immediate southwest lies the slightly smaller Koh Surin Tai;
of the site, is part of the deepest of the three reefs, ranging between the two is a strait only 200m wide, which can be
from 25m to 30m. This section is a fairly reliable spot for crossed on foot during low waters.
catching glimpses of manta rays and whale sharks which
both frequent the area. The only residents on Koh Surin Nua are the park officials,
although Koh Surin Tai has small communities of Chao Ley
The second, or central, section of the reef is slightly shallower sea gypsies on some of its eastern beaches.
and is constructed mainly of hard corals and large rocks,
around which schools of spadefish – such as pinnate batfish Diving around Surin
– are tended to by common cleanerfish. Clinging to the rocks Sites follow along fringing reefs that slope gently to the sea-
are gorgonian sea fans, featherstars, colourful crinoids and bed and in contrast along the walls of sheer pinnacles. The
areas of carpet sea anemones. Large bullethead parrotfish reefs and their inhabitants are thankfully now protected,
and even larger Napoleon wrasse share these waters with but this hasn’t always been the case. Sadly there are isolated
moorish idols, schooling bannerfish, juvenile snappers and a areas of damage which have restricted the selection of listed
variety of triggerfish, including titan and orange-striped. sites. However, the jurisdiction extends to include the whale
shark magnet of Richelieu Rock.
The third and shallowest section of the site sits in 12m. Here
you will encounter many Indian lionfish amongst backdrops The sites are dived as both multi-day liveaboard excursions
of gorgonian sea fans and giant clams. Other schooling fish from Phuket and Khao Lak, as well as daily dive trips from
life includes batfish, sweetlips and juvenile yellowtail and Khao Lak. For details of dive centres, see pages 80-87 (Phuket)
chevron barracuda. and 91-94 (Khao Lak).
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DIVE SITES DIVE SITES
Mu Koh Surin Mergui Archipelago
1 Turtle Ledge
Location: Koh Surin Tai’s south-eastern coastline.
Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 20m
The site was awarded its name from the frequent sightings of
turtles. It is also excellent for night-diving.

The higher portions of the reef-slope have numerous


gardens of carpet anemones, below which are solitary
magnificent sea anemones inhabited by a variety of
1
anemonefish. Clusters of stag and elkhorn corals shelter
giant clams and encrusting sponges from the predation
of bullethead parrotfish. Green turtles are frequently
encountered here.

2 Koh Torinla 2
Location: Off the southwest tip of Koh Surin Tai.
Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 27m
3
The eastern area has a small garden of magnificent sea
anemones which are hosted by pink skunk and Clark’s
anemonefish. Small groupers and coral trout shelter beneath
many fine flower corals. Beyond these gardens, are numerous
smooth porous corals – including lesser and greater star –
4
with schools of bicolour parrotfish, blue-spotted groupers
and pairs of Emporer angelfish all venturing between the
rocks.
In 1997 the Mergui Archipelago in the south of Myanmar
The rocks in the shallows host hermit crabs, urchins and (Burma) was opened up to foreigners for the first time in over
cleaner shrimps, and are rich with colourful featherstars. fifty years. Back in the 17th Century the port of Mergui used
This is one of the few locations in Thai waters where large to be the main gateway to the Gulf of Siam and beyond – all
numbers of bumphead parrotfish are still frequently seen. passing boats came to the port to offload cargo or replenish
supplies.
3 Richelieu Rock
Location: 14km east of Koh Surin Nua and Tai. Since then the Mergui Archipelago has been left largely alone
Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 45m and today it is an area of some mystery. Numerous islands
As this is the only food source in the immediate area, it is remain unexplored, and the region presents the possibility
excellent for encountering large pelagics. Rainbow runners, of hundreds of exciting new dive sites. Even now, trips here
great and chevron barracuda, trevallies and tuna are all maintain an exploratory feel, with visitors being amongst the
frequently seen. The rock is also among the world’s top listed first foreign faces ever seen by local nomadic Moken people
locations for sighting whale sharks. (Burmese sea gypsies).

Predominantly, this is a wall-dive which follows around a Diving the Mergui Archipelago
main outcrop surrounded by smaller submerged pinnacles Coral representation is sporadic, and the underwater terrain
whose peaks range from 3m to 10m below the surface. In the is quite rugged and not as colourful as that around Mu Koh
deeper waters around the three southernmost pinnacles is a Similan Marine National Park. However, the area’s waters
collection of large gorgonian sea fans, immediately beneath are certainly not without their own special attractions.
radiant hermetypic corals. Sites such as Black Rock attract a variety of sharks as well as
manta, eagle and marbled rays, whilst The Three Islets has
Around the corals is a wide diversity of marine life: residents a healthy array of smaller reef life which is second to none.
include schooling bannerfish, a variety of snappers and Virtually all the diving around the Archipelago is done from
lionfish, moorish idols, titan triggerfish, and even shovelnose liveaboard excursions operating out of Phuket and Khao
rays. Also present are bearded scorpionfish, stonefish, moray Lak. For details of dive centres, see pages 80-87 (Phuket) and
eels, seahorses, shrimps, crabs and nudibranchs. 91-94 (Khao Lak).
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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - MERGUI ARCHIPELAGO
Mergui Archipelago
1 Black Rock dog-faced pufferfish have also taken up residency. The waters
Location: A 50m wide outcrop equidistant between North away from the island appear to be part of one of the many
Eastern Little Torres and North Twin Island. routes for great barracudas and small white-tip reef sharks.
Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 40m+ The barracuda in particular often come in close to check out
This is a tremendously exciting dive site, with frequent divers and on occasion escort them round the site.
possibilities of spotting sharks of different sizes and species. It
is primarily a wall dive, underlined with small boulders. This is 3 Three Islets
the place to observe larger apex predators such as scalloped Location: These three rocky outcrops lie 30 km to the
hammerheads, bull, grey reef and white tips. The sharks patrol southeast of North Twin Island.
the waters away from the rocky mass, passing through and Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 30m
around patch reefs and boulders that have settled to form This is the favourite site in the archipelago as there’s simply
wide U-shaped gullies on the seabed. so much to see. The islet is split in two from west to east by
a canyon and is a great place to encounter grey reef sharks
Large barracudas provide a wake-up call for any divers and marbled rays as they pass through. The whole site is
thinking of investigating the rocks in the deeper waters. Reef literally teeming with shrimps, eels, seahorses, anglerfish
fish are prolific all around this open ocean site as are minute and basketstars. Macro photographers could spend days
reef creatures such as nudibranchs, shrimps and crabs. The here and still not photograph everything.
rarely seen Rhinopia, or lacy scorpionfish has been seen along
the northern slopes of this site. 4 Western Rocky
Location: A collection of small rocky outcrops 82km
2 North Twin southwest of the departure point of Kaw Thaung.
Location: 36km to the south of Black Rock. Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 30m
Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 22m The underwater terrain here consists of pinnacles, both
A wide plateau at 20m, covered by numerous hard and soft outcropping and submerged. The largest outcrop has a cave
corals, crinoids and small reef fish. Eggshell and tiger cowries that cuts right through it and branches into a narrow and
sit on display, while small groups of goatfish fidget about low exit; the tunnel itself is filled with painted lobsters, crabs
between the rocks and over the coral substrate bottom. and small invertebrates. The smaller exit of the tunnel is best
Juvenile harlequin sweetlips are in evidence, and around avoided since its exit is occasionally blocked by a couple
one particularly compact cluster of sea fans, schools of of large though harmless resident tawny nurse sharks. The
checkerboard wrasse and small fish fry congregate. presence of tiny invertebrates continues around the other
pinnacles in the form of porcelain crabs, harlequin shrimps
There are larger table corals and porite mounds dotted with and squat lobsters. There’s also a variety of other smaller
multicoloured plume worms, and below the mounds crayfish attractions around this site, including cowrie shells, seahorses
concealed in darker overhangs. Parrotfish, spiny foot and and ribbon eels. A variety of small reef sharks can be seen in
the deeper waters.
South Mergui

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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - KRABI
Krabi
1 Koh Ma Tang Ming
Location: Immediately north of Koh Podah Nai.
Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 14m
Although this is not one of the area’s better sites, it merits a
mention as it has reasonable diversities of both marine life and
hard corals making it a rewarding introduction dive to the area.
Close inspection of the submerged rocks is recommended,
as numerous members of the scorpaenidae family – such as
bearded scorpionfish and stonefish – are concealed on the
rocky ledges. Small yellow boxfish, rock basslets, moorish idols
and bannerfish add colour, as do trees of soft corals.
1
Hard corals are represented by staghorn, brain and some small
2
boulders of coral porites. The best area for snorkellers is around
the eastern side where, close to the rock, there are many sea
3 whips, large plate corals and associated reef inhabitants.
4
5 7 2 Koh Podah Nai
6 8 Location: The largest of the offshore islands and islets, just
9 over 6Km south of Ao Nang Beach.
10
Warning: Due to high volume of boat traffic, extreme care must
be taken when snorkelling at this site.
Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 12m
Had Nopparat Marine National Park The northern beach of Koh Podah Nai slopes gently down to
Krabi Province is 940km south of Bangkok and has long been an extensive reef-flat, which continues outwards for a further
a popular destination for budget travellers. An international 50m before it reaches an almost sheer slope which drops to
airport and high end resorts attract a broad spectrum of 12m. At high tide the corals are covered with only 2m of water
visitors to the beaches, particularly families. or less; at lower tides many coral heads actually break the
surface. These conditions render the particular area suitable
The area features some of Thailand’s most stunning landscape. only for snorkelling.
Sheer limestone cliffs are crowned with elevated jungles and
coconut palms clad the hillsides above glorious beaches. Better corals and marine life are found a little way out. The
The rugged cliff-faces are scarred with numerous caves and reef consists mainly of small clusters of staghorn, cauliflower
crevices, many of which are climbed by adventurous sports and a number of leaf and plate corals. There are many narrow
climbers. crevices and ledges that cut into the rocky walls of the island
itself, these are well worth investigating as tigertail seahorses
Diving around Krabi often conceal themselves within.
Directly off Ao Nang there are two islands, Koh Podah Nai 3 Koh Podah Nok (Chicken Island)
and Koh Podah Nok, and a handful of limestone outcrops.
Location: 500m due south of Koh Podah Nai.
The area’s local diving concentrates around these, as well
Depth: Average 1m / Maximum 4m
as the sites at Koh Phi Phi, Shark Point Marine Sanctuary and
This site is immensely popular for snorkelling, and as the
Hin Daeng and Mouang. Divers can enjoy an abundance
maximum depth dictates, not really a suitable dive site.
of radiant soft corals and a tremendous diversity of marine
The marine life around this picturesque islet is more prolific
life. There are gently sloping reefs, caves and exciting swim-
round the eastern shore, particularly off the northern end of
throughs.
the beach.
The shallow reefs also offer opportunities for some
The seascape is liberally punctuated with rocky boulder
tremendous snorkelling. The local sites are accessed in
and coral laminates with lots of small colourful reef-
around 20 minutes whilst those further afield take over an
fish, reasonably sized giant clams and a wealth of small
hour.
invertebrates. Its best to swim from the beach itself as there
are also many black-spined sea urchins.
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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - KRABI
Krabi
4 Koh Mae Urai 7 Koh Kom
Location: 1km southwest of Koh Podah Nai. Location: Outcrop to the southeast of Podah Nok.
Depth: Average 9m / Maximum16m Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m
This rocky outcrop features two underwater tunnels. As you The seascape around the western side of the outcrop features
pass through the easternmost tunnel its exit acts as a natural numerous terraced shelves which drop down to an area of
frame for glorious soft corals in whites, pinks, blues, oranges large rocks. The gaps between the rocks act as shelters for a
and yellows. Beyond this coral garden, the sea-bed tapers selection of medium-sized vertebrates, including large dog-
gradually down past shelves of rocks crowned with colourful faced pufferfish and groupers. Moorish idols and schooling
featherstars and orange encrusting sponges. Magnificent bannerfish patrol among many sea whips and bushy black
sea anemones host a variety of anemonefish. corals.

5 Hin Bia Rhlua There’s also a small cave, the shallower exit of which leads
Location: 500m southeast of Koh Mae Urai. to an elevated rocky plateau dense with magnificent sea
Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 16m anemones, themselves occupied by groups of saddleback
A local favourite. The southern side of the main outcrop is the and tomato anemonefish.
deepest section of the dive, which gradually gets shallower
heading north and is dominated by terraces of foliaceous 8 Koh Ya Wa Bon
corals. Below these are many small boulders of lesser and Location: To the west of Koh Podah Nok.
greater star corals with the familiar punctuation of plume Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m
worms and sea whips. Along the floor of a narrow gorge in the In the north of this site an impressive archway cuts through
northern apex of this site, parrotfish peck away at hard corals the face of the rock for about 10m; there are two entrances at
and black-banded sea kraits weave in and out of the nooks and 6m and 12m. This is a good swim through, although it is only
crannies along its walls. Some sections of this site are relatively wide enough for a single diver at a time. The site’s northern
shallow, and are suitable for snorkellers to enjoy. area gradually slopes down over coral laminates interspersed
with sea anemones (with a variety of tenants) and rocks.
6 Koh Ya Wa Sam
Location: About 2km west of Podah Nok. Away from the reef are three large submerged boulders, whose
Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 17m southern faces are carpeted in anemones; their many crevices
The reef-slope off the southern outcrop climbs over many act as homes and lairs to a variety of invertebrates, including
rocks which provide the main structure of the site. Juvenile banded, boxing and hinge shrimps. This is also a good location
black-tip reef and grey nurse sharks often rest among the for spotting juvenile snowflake morays and black-banded sea
rocks, with leopard sharks out on the sand. kraits as they meander in and out of the rocks.
Koh Ma Tang Ming in Ao Nang Bay

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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - KRABI
Krabi
9 Koh See
Location: Three outcrops south of Koh Ya Wa Sam.
AQUA VISION
Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 16m Ao Nang Beach
There’s a tremendous diversity of corals and marine life here. Klong Muang – Sheraton Beach
Off the eastern face you find a wall. To the west this gradually Klong Muang Dive Shop
declines into close formations of large rocks. Back along the Tel. +66 (0)81 797 3924
reef-slope itself, at a steady depth of 11m, a ribbon like effect Ao Nang Beach Scuba Center
is created by a series of brain corals which have anchored Tel. +66 (0)89 652 2474
themselves into the limestone. e. info@aqua-vision.net,
w. www.aqua-vision.net, www.diving-krabi.com
The coral assortment changes towards the site’s western Facebook.Scuba-Diving-Krabi-Thailand
section where the familiar hard species are replaced by Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental
bubble corals and zoanthids. These continue back to the Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
western apex, which is highlighted by a spectacular shelved
slope of leaf corals. There’s a fair representation of reef The scuba diving and snorkelling specialists for both Ao
fish around Koh See, including titan and yellow-margined Nang and Klong Muang Beaches, Aqua Vision are one of the
most highly rated, professional and friendly dive centres in
triggerfish, moorish idols, dog faced pufferfish, lunar wrasse Krabi. They are also the only dive school in mainland Krabi
and harlequin sweetlips. that offers one day whale shark and manta ray diving aboard
their own dive boats.
10 Koh Haa
Location: Outcrop to the southeast of Koh See. Diving on Aqua Vision’s speedboats offers the benefit of
small group diving, the ability to dive sites before they
Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m
become crowded, plus regular visits to sites that are out of
Two large rocks in a depth of 9m are covered in soft corals, range of the big boats, including the outstanding sites at Hin
with oysters clinging to the rocky surface and also to sea Daeng, Hin Mouang and the Racha Islands.
whip corals. The craggy surfaces of these small pinnacles host
various moray eels. There are many sea anemones, mainly Aqua Vision’s Dive Shop at the Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort
magnificent and gigantic; there’s an equally impressive and Scuba Center on Ao Nang Beach offer half day diving
at Phi Phi, Koh Ha Caverns, Shark Point, King Cruiser, plus
number of tenant anemonefish. If you look closely at the
snorkel tours and the complete range of PADI dive courses in
anemones you usually find other, smaller hosts such as amongst others, English, French, German, Russian, Spanish
anemone crabs and translucent shrimps. This is also a good and Swedish languages.
site for spotting colourful mantis shrimps in their burrows in
the coral substrate.
A curious blenny

114 115
DIRECTORY POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIRECTORY - KRABI
Krabi
How to get there Dive facilities
Krabi can be reached directly by air, road and sea. Most of the area’s diving services are on Ao Nang Beach, either
as stand-alone dive centres or associated with the larger
By air: Krabi International Airport can be accessed from resorts or hotels. There is also one listed operator on Railae
a number of neighbouring countries, or via Bangkok’s West Beach. All the operators offer diving instruction and daily
Suvarnabhumi International Airport. Domestic flights are diving trips to the local sites and those further afield.
also scheduled between Krabi and Bangkok’s Don Muang
Airport. Domestic flight times average 80 minutes. There are Dive trips
also flights between Krabi and Koh Samui. Dive trips run on a daily basis. All trips depart from Ao Nang
with pick-ups from Railae on the way to the dive sites, and
The three main carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within include light refreshments, fruit, drinking water, lunch and
Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 Divemaster services. On the majority of the local diving trips,
265 5555. Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside the surface interval can be spent on the island of Koh Podah
Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai Airways International: Nai. Snorkellers can enjoy the reefs around this and Chicken
Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. Island.
By boat: Longtail boats from Krabi Town to Ao Nang and Day trips to the further destinations of Shark Point, Anemone
Railae take 40 minutes to reach Railae and another 5 minutes Reef, King Cruiser Wreck and the Phi Phi Islands are also
to Ao Nang. Longtail boats also provide a regular service available on a daily basis and snorkellers and non-divers are
between the two beaches. welcome to join any of the trips. Hin Daeng and Mouang are
also visited.
Large passenger boats depart daily from Ao Nang, Railae
and Krabi Town to Koh Phi Phi, and to Koh Lanta from Krabi
Town. Hospitals
Krabi Provincial Hospital
By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Southern This hospital is in Krabi Town, but it’s basic.
Bus Terminal daily. The local bus terminal is just outside Krabi Tel. +66 (0)75 611227-8. If you do require treatment it’s
Town and takes 12 hours to reach. For further information advisable to get to Phuket.
regarding any bus services contact Bangkok Southern Bus
Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. The Bangkok Hospital Phuket has a permanent
ambulance based in Krabi Town which serves the area.
Where to eat Emergency Ambulance: Tel. 1719
Ao Nang Beach: The larger hotels and resorts at Ao Nang all Diving Medicine Hotline
have their own restaurants, but that’s not to say that they Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482
are the only option for lunch or dinner. There are many Recompression chambers
good eateries along the beach road, as well as along a
walkway that continues on at its northern end. The nearest recompression chambers are those on
Phuket. For details see page 88.
At the opposite end of the beach, nestled amongst the shady
trees directly behind the beach, is the Last Café. This is an
ideal and unique place if you’re looking for light meals and Dive courses
beach snacks during the day. Courses for the complete beginner are very popular here,
as there’s a good selection of shallow sites. Local instruction
Railae: This beach differs from Ao Nang in that virtually all follows CMAS, NAUI, PADI or SSI diver training programs and
the restaurants are associated with individual beach resorts. is available in a variety of languages; the prices are similar
Family-run rustic-style cafés serve fantastic seafood dishes. and are fully inclusive of all equipment and certification.

For best information and insight on where and what to eat,


see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of For more information on the Krabi area contact Tourism
2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com Authority of Thailand, Tel. 076 212213, 076 211036.

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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - KOH PHI PHI
Koh Phi Phi
Diving around Koh Phi Phi
Koh Phi Phi offers a splendid variety of different types of
diving on its local reefs, with abundant hard and soft corals
and rich diversity of marine life – suitable for all levels of divers.
Trips also visit Shark Point Marine Sanctuary, Hin Daeng and
Mouang. Snorkelling around Phi Phi is second to none, with
plenty of shallow coral gardens crowning the fringing reefs,
which are alive with colourful fish.

1 Ao Nui
1 Location: On the northwest coast of Koh Phi Phi Don.
Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 21m
The dive circumnavigates the large rocky outcrop just outside
the bay and is a truly enjoyable dive. The waters around the
eastern face are shallow and ideal for snorkelling: there are
lots of corals and colourful reef fish among small boulders
and rocks, which are encrusted with patches of sponges and
2 interspersed with a multitude of plume worms.

3 In contrast, the western section comprises a wall that descends


to 20m to meet a jumble of rocks. The wall features a wealth of
4
marine life including moray eels, lionfish, angelfish, butterflyfish
and even harlequin ghost pipefish. The northwestern apex of
the reef features large boulders, balanced on top of each other,
5
6
between which the more experienced divers can explore a
number of relatively tight swim-throughs.
7

2 Hin Dot
Location: Submerged pinnacle off Koh Phi Phi Don’s
8
southwestern headlands.
Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 28m
The pinnacle is dominated by three interesting shelves
which provide ample and varied underwater scenery as you
spiral upwards. There are good soft corals at all depths. The
Mu Koh Phi Phi Marine National Park hard corals are represented by tubes and laminates. The
50 km to the south west of Krabi, the Phi Phi island group
deeper sections have numerous oysters and clams. Many
has been drawing visitors from all four corners of the globe
reef-fish are in evidence, including lunar wrasse, parrotfish,
for over a decade. It is an extremely popular international
honeycomb groupers and spotfin and Indian lionfish. There
destination, and one that is well and truly established on
are also bearded scorpionfish lurking among the rocks as
Thailand’s diving and snorkelling map.
they await their prey of tiny fish.
The islands’ raw natural beauty, fabulous beaches and ease of
3 Table Coral City
access all together add to the lure of this family destination,
Location: Off the eastern side of Phi Phi Ley next to the
which continues to flourish without the eyesore of high-rise
Viking Cave.
development.
Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 28m
This is an interesting place to dive, and there is much to see.
The topography of the larger and only inhabited island of
The topography of the site is a sloping reef with sand and
Koh Phi Phi Don comprises two dramatic limestone outcrops
coral patches interspersed with a range of pinnacles. In the
divided by a narrow flat isthmus. This stretch of land is where
shallower reefs, there are some excellent examples of sea
the vast majority of the island’s amenities and services are
fans, whips and table corals, under the larger of which a
found, of which there are plenty to choose from.
resident hawksbill turtle can usually be seen.

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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - KOH PHI PHI
Koh Phi Phi
There is also an artificial reef comprising of 100 cement variety of marine life, including small reef sharks, schooling
blocks stacked from 18m to around 6m covered with algae pelagics (barracudas, trevally, kingfish and tuna) and, for shark-
and an increasing amount of sea anemones. Regular marine spotters, bamboo, black-tip reef and leopard sharks. Reef
life encounters include leopard sharks, scorpionfish, ghost inhabitants include angel and butterflyfish, morays, octopus,
pipefish, peacock flounders, tiger tail seahorses and a variety seahorses and the occasional turtle!
of nudibranchs.
7 Koh Bida Nok
4 Ao Maya Location: Outer outcrop directly south of Phi Phi Ley.
Location: West coast of Koh Phi Phi Ley. Depth: Average 19m / Maximum 30m
Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 24m Gorgonian sea fans, sea whips and colourful soft corals
The dive follows the coast along a steep shelved reef, with abound. Small scorpionfish disguise themselves amid the
occasional sections of wall; hard corals, sea whips and various rocks; lionfish hover between. Varying sizes and species of
species of sea anemones cover the elevated shelves. There are colourful parrotfish and wrasse, along with large schools of
also small offshore pinnacles and submerged rocks to explore. moorish idols and hunting trumpetfish, are at all depths. On
Wrasse, moorish idols and bannerfish constantly pass by. the higher ledges are numerous sea anemones populated by
clownfish. Expect encounters with leopard sharks and, on a
5 Ao Losamah grander scale, manta rays and whale sharks.
Location: The southern bay of Koh Phi Phi Ley.
Depth: Average 14m / Maximum 20m 8 Hin Bida
The sandy bottom is punctuated by rocky ledges among Location: Outcrop 8km southeast of Koh Phi Phi Ley.
which are numerous bearded scorpionfish. Fringing the Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 18m
rocks are sea whips, some bent over by the aggregations of Relatively shallow at around 5m, the area due north of the
wing oysters clinging to them. The southern section of the outcrop is covered with scattered rocks; in calm conditions
site is deeper, at 20m, and follows a wall where many bivalves snorkellers and divers can enjoy schools of colourful reef-
and clusters of soft corals are in evidence. Pairs of large blue- fish, including blue-lined snappers and harlequin sweetlips,
ringed angelfish explore the nooks and crannies. and more static attractions like multicoloured plume worms,
featherstars and crinoids.
6 Koh Bida Nai
Location: The nearer of the two outcrops directly south of This location’s secondary name (Phi Phi’s Shark Point) refers
Phi Phi Ley. to the overwhelming presence of leopard sharks. There
Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 35m are also lots of cuttlefish, squid and titan triggerfish. Large
A hugely diverse range of hard and soft corals. One area, known undulated and golden morays, spiny lobsters and octopi
as Fantasy Reef, comprises mostly branching and hard coral attempt to obscure themselves within the many craggy
laminates, punctuated with soft corals. The reef attracts a high holes and crevices.
Ton Sai Bay, Phi Phi Don Short-nose hawkfish

120 121
DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - KOH PHI PHI
Koh Phi Phi

PHI PHI SCUBA DIVING CENTER VIKING DIVERS


Ton Sai Bay Ton Sai Bay
Tel. +66 (0)75 601148 Dive Centre.
e. ppscuba@gmail.com +66 (0)75 601273
w. www.ppscuba.com Hotline. +66 (0)81 719 3375
Just a minute and a half’s e. vikingdivers@hotmail.com,
stroll from the pier, the bright yellow 2-storey dive centre w. www.vikingdiversthailand.com
covers all aspects of diving service whilst maintaining a
sociable relaxed atmosphere. Viking Divers believe you will not find a better partner for
your diving needs and over the years they have gained a
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Gear rental good reputation as a friendly professional dive centre.
Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
Instruction | Day trips | Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling
Established in 1989 Phi Phi Scuba has plenty of experience Accomodation
and with six dive boats and a power boat chartering
service they offer a choice of diving destinations every day, They are mentioned in the Rough Guide and Lonely Planet
separating boats for qualified and student divers. Trips visit as well as several other well known guide books, their aim is
all the local dive sites, including the King Cruiser Wreck and to give customers the best possible service and experience
the manta ray and whale shark magnets of Hin Daeng and Hin underwater that they can. To ensure that they meet this,
Mouang. These sites are perfect for advanced and speciality group sizes are kept to no more than four people on any
dives, such as underwater photography and videography, diving course or guided dive trip.
two services offered by centre. PADI and SSI dive courses start on a daily basis along with
PADI and SSI dive courses up to and including the professional three different scheduled dive trips to the local sites, the wreck
certification of instructor start daily in a variety of languages of the King Cruiser or Hin Daeng and Hin Mouang, all of which
with classes being kept to small groups, providing students are visited onboard the centre’s two custom built dive boats.
with a comforting introduction to the Andaman Sea. Dive
professional internship packages are also available.
Above the dive centre, the ‘Deco Bar’ is a great place for
logging dives and relaxing whilst wrapping up a great day
of diving.

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DIRECTORY POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIRECTORY - KOH PHI PHI
Koh Phi Phi
How to get there
Hospitals
There are daily boat transfers to and from Krabi, Koh Lanta The nearest hospitals are those in Krabi Town and on
and Phuket. For information on how to get to: Krabi see Phuket. It’s advisable, if possible, to get to one of the
p140, Koh Lanta p160 and Phuket p106. hospitals on Phuket.
Where to eat Krabi Provincial Hospital: Tel. +66 (0)75 611227-8
Narrow streets and walkways on Koh Phi Phi Don traverse Recompression chambers
both the isthmus and follow along the two coastlines and The nearest recompression chambers are on Phuket.
are substantially punctuated by a range of restaurants, cafes For details see page 88.
and bakeries purveying a broad selection of European and
Thai menus. Pizzerias, hamburger and steak joints, ice cream
parlours and, as you would expect, seafood restaurants are
For more information on Koh Phi Phi contact Tourism
all but a short stroll away from each other.
Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036.
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, Hand-painted korlae fishing boat
see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of
2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com

Dive facilities
The majority of Koh Phi Phi’s dive operators are located in
the small, and only, town in Ton Sai Bay on Koh Phi Phi Don.
Diving is a big attraction here and there are plenty of dive
centres in order to cater for the demand. The standard of service
is high with virtually all the major languages being spoken.

A number of the more established centres carry a good


selection of equipment for sale and provide servicing too.
There are two liveaboard boats operated from the island.
The Koh Phi Phi dive sites are also visited as daily excursions
by the operators located in Krabi, and on the islands of Koh
Lanta and Phuket.

Dive trips
Trips run twice daily, departing at around 08.00hrs and 14.00hrs:
most offer light refreshments, fruit, lunch and Divemaster
services. Not all operators include equipment in the price.

The larger dive boats carry fresh water tanks for rinsing
photographic equipment, but longtail boats do not.
Snorkellers and non-divers are welcome to join any of the
scheduled diving trips; masks and fins are available for hire.

If you want to organise your own snorkelling trip you can hire
a longtail from Ao Ton Sai or Hat Yao for a reasonable charge.

Dive courses
Courses for the complete beginner are very popular here, as
there is a good selection of shallow sites. Local instruction
follows CMAS, PADI, NAUI and SSI diver training programmes;
prices are similar and are fully inclusive of all equipment and
certification.
124 125
DIVE SITES
Koh Lanta

Pak Meng

1
3
2

5
6

Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park


There are dozens of islands off the Krabi coast. Of these,
15 make up the Mu Koh Lanta Marine National Park, which
covers about 135 sq km across four main island groups – Koh
Lanta Yai and Koh Lanta Noi, Koh Muk, Koh Rok Nok and Koh
Rok Nai, and the Koh Ha group of islands.

The most tourist facilities are found on Koh Lanta Yai; there
are numerous bungalow resorts and even a couple of luxury
spa and hotel complexes – and even more on the way.

The island is around 25km long, with a hilly central section


and a string of superb sandy beaches along its western
coastline. The main hub of activity on the island remains at
the northern port of Saladan. Here you will find a post office,
clinic and banking facilities. There is also a nice selection
of restaurants and, of course, a number of the island’s dive
operators.

Diving around Koh Lanta


The diving to the south of Koh Lanta and the adjacent islands
is exceptionally good. This is regarded as one of the best
areas in Thailand. There’s a great variety of walls, fringing
reefs, caves and a wreck to explore around the offshore
islands, islets and rocks.

Marine life is abundant, with a healthy cross-section of reef


species and pelagics. Only the local operators and a few from
Krabi, Koh Phi Phi and Phuket currently utilise these sites, so
they remain uncrowded.

126 See listing on Page 132


DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - KOH LANTA
Koh Lanta
1 Koh Ha Nua overhangs, but the latter is the most interesting. More
Location: Northernmost outcrop of the Koh Ha island group. significant than the diving on offer, there’s an interesting
Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 34m adventure for snorkellers – assuming they feel brave
One point of individuality is that the site is characterised enough to navigate the winding cave/tunnel, 60m long,
by a scattering of geometrically shaped rocks. Sea whips which has been cut through the western rocky cliff.
and sea fans are much in evidence, as are featherstars and
nudibranchs. This is as good a place as any to see Indian and Known as Morukut (Emerald Cave), this penetrates the
spotfin lionfish, bearded scorpionfish and imperial angelfish. mountain and eventually emerges into a beautiful lagoon,
There is a small cave off the southwest wall, which twists about 60m across, fringed by tropical forest, and with a
down to its exit in a lovely area of large submerged boulders superb beach. The tunnel affords the only access by water
carpeted in radiant soft corals and large gorgonian sea fans. to this lagoon; the water at its entrance is only about 4m
The gaps between offer exciting swim-through experiences. deep and becomes shallower as the tunnel goes deeper into
the mountain, while there is always at least 1m airspace and
2 Koh Ha Yai sometimes as much as 15m.
Location: Southernmost of the Koh Ha island group.
Depth: Average 18m / Maximum 25m 4 Koh Kraden wreck
There is excellent adventure here. The south western face Location: Off the southwest coast of Koh Kraden.
has a cave with two large entrances. The western of these is a Depth: Average 24m / Maximum 28m
hole in the rock at a depth of 5m. This immediately enters the The wreck is believed to be of a 60-70m Japanese destroyer
larger of two connected cathedrals, which rise an impressive sunk by air attack in 1944. It sits in 28m of water. As the
30m above sea-level. The other entrance/exit, at the eastern visibility here generally worsens below 20m, the way to find
end, is deeper, at 16m. It is not dark in the cathedrals; light the wreck is to follow the many fish that frequent what has
enters from the waters below. Directly in front of the cave become an artificial reef. Those experienced in wreck-diving
are a number of large rocks highlighted by sea fans and soft can penetrate the bow sections, but it is not advisable to
corals. There are also plenty of sea whips, which are worth attempt entry to the stern section, which is draped with
closer inspection as it will reveal a variety of tiny camouflaged fishing nets and subject to much silting.
invertebrates.
5 Koh Rok Nai
3 Koh Muk Location: The northern of the two Koh Rok islands.
Location: Outcrop off Koh Muk’s northwest point. Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 20m
Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 10m This is a good site at all depths. The diving is around the
The rock is covered in splendid purple and red soft corals, southern coast, heading slightly northeast. This is also a
with holes and cracks providing hiding places for reef reasonable snorkelling site, and offers good night-diving,
inhabitants. You can head either south along the west since conditions are almost always calm at night. The reef
coast or east along the north coast – both options offer slopes gently and there are lots of hard corals, including
Collare butterflyfish brain and table staghorn, and many barrel sponges. The reef-
fish are reasonably plenteous; they include bannerfish, large
schools of moorish idols, a good variety of anemonefish and
on occasion, turtles. Away from the reef, large barracuda,
tuna and jacks pass by.

6 Koh Rok Nok


Location: The southern of the two Koh Rok islands.
Depth: Average 14m / Maximum 20m
Around the wall, look out for morays, lionfish, invertebrates
and nudibranchs, plus many zigzag oysters. Further around
the headland you come across a terrain of big boulders that
extends all the way to the cliff face. This section is interesting
in that a freshwater stream has, because of its high iron
content, coloured the rocks bright orange; for the same
reason, though, healthy coral growth is restricted.

128 129
DIVE SITES DIVE CENTRES
Koh Lanta Koh Lanta
7 Hin Daeng
Location: 500m from Hin Mouang.
KO LANTA DIVING CENTER
Depth: Average 25m / Maximum 35m Saladan
A series of wall dives with intermittent shelves at varying Dive Centre. +66 (0)75 668065
depths. There are more soft corals than hard, but the main e. info@kolantadivingcenter.com
attraction is the seemingly endless diversity of marine
w. www.kolantadivingcenter.com
inhabitants, including leopard sharks, turtles, moray eels,
lionfish, bannerfish, angelfish, butterflyfish, pipefish, sea kraits,
crabs, shrimps and lobsters. This is due to the fact that this, and Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Rebreather
neighbouring Hin Mouang, are the only reef-type communities Cave diving | Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling
or feeding grounds within the area. Individually, though, they Accommodation
have different attractions. For instance, the deeper waters Ko Lanta Diving Center was the first dive shop on the island
around this site are one of the few remaining places in the and was established in 1992 by underwater photographer
country where grey reef sharks can be encountered. Manta and author Christian Mietz. They were the first TDA Diving
rays and whale sharks are also regular visitors. Association member and CMAS 5 Star Examiner Academy in
the country. They are also a CMAS 5 Star TEC Academy.
8 Hin Mouang The full range of recreational and TEC diving courses up to
Location: 27km west of Koh Rok. Instructor level are available including Nitrox and rebreather
Depth: Average 23m / Maximum 70m+ courses.
This is one of the best dive sites in Thai waters. A series of six or Daily trips visit all the best spots in the southern Andaman
more submerged pinnacles heads southwest, the shallowest Sea including Hin Daeng and Mouang and the Koh Ha group
being about 8m beneath the surface. The site gets its name of Islands onboard their purpose built 20m diving boat M/V
courtesy of the carpet of purple sea anemones which cloak Choksomboon 1.
its upper surfaces. This is a very colourful and exciting site. Diving is conducted in small led groups, or those experienced
Large pelagics often visit, including enormous barracuda enough can explore the reefs without direct guidance. Nitrox
and very large tuna. Manta rays and whale sharks regularly and rebreathers are available for qualified divers.
frequent the surrounding waters, as do large stingrays. Special cave diving tours around the provinces of Phang Nga
Corals on Hin Mouang and Krabi are also scheduled.

130 131
DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - KOH LANTA
Koh Lanta

LANTA DIVER PALM BEACH DIVERS


Saladan Long Beach & Klong Khong Beach
Dive Centre. +66 (0)75 668058 Tel/fax.
Hotline. +66 (0)87 891 4141 +66 (0)75 684603
Fax. +66 (0)75 684057 Hotline.
e. scuba@lantadiver.com +66 (0)87 806 4314
w. www.lantadiver.com e. info@palmbeachdivers.com
Established in 1998, Lanta Diver are w. www.palmbeachdivers.com
a PADI 5 Star IDC Center, offering a Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental
full range of PADI courses (up to and
Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
including the level of Instructor),
liveaboard excursions and daily diving trips to a number of At Palm Beach Divers the heart and focus is both on fun and
the best dive sites and reefs in Thailand. They are also a Reef diving. The centre is located in the beautiful resort of Lanta
Check Centre. Palm Beach where they specialize in the personal approach
by offering diving services to fit everybody’s wishes.
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox
Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation As a PADI 5 Star IDC Center dive courses are conducted by a
team of experienced instructors who are all passionate about
Lanta Diver specializes in quality education, small groups and diving. All courses are conducted around their students with
diver safety. Lanta Diver’s Instructors, Divemasters and staff particular attention being paid on Divemaster and Instructor
are all highly experienced professionals, who aim to ensure certifications. Allowing students to take their career in diving
that your diving holiday is as enjoyable and safe as possible. to the limit. Packages including accommodation are possible.
Lanta Diver has the largest and best stocked equipment retail Dive trips are limited to small groups and depart directly from
store on the island, is an authorized dealer for all major brand the beach on the centre’s own large and fast dive boat, Lila.
names, and is able to service and repair most equipment in They are run by experienced international staff who ensure
its comprehensive service centre. high service and safety standards and – above all – lots of fun
Accommodation, snorkelling and other activities on Koh and adventure!
Lanta can also be booked through the dive centre. They can The centre is an Aqua Lung Partner Center and therefore
also take care of travel and accommodation reservations stocks high standard diving gear at competitive prices.
elsewhere in Thailand.

132 133
DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - KOH LANTA
Koh Lanta

SCUBAFISH SEA BEES DIVING


Kantiang Bay & Pak Meng
Klong Nin Beach Tel. +66 (0)8 0533 6360
Tel. +66 (0)869 468 262 e. pakmeng@sea-bees.com
+66 (0)75 665 095 w. www.sea-bees.com
fax. +66 (0)75 665 096 facebook: www.facebook.com/seabeesdiving
e. info@scuba-fish.com
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox
w. www.scuba-fish.com
Gear rental | Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
Scubafish is a small & personal,
eco-friendly, PADI 5 Star IDC Dive Resort. If comfort, safety Only an hour from Krabi International airport on the mainland,
and small groups are important to you, this has to be the dive the Sea Bees international team of professional dive guides
centre of choice. and instructors is highly experienced with a minimum of 250
dives and trained to meet Sea Bees Diving highest standards
Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental – so you’ll be in safe and secure hands as they guide you
Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation through the fascinating underwater world. Their knowledge
Departing directly from the beach in Kantiang Bay, their 2 of the local dive sites and aquatic life is second to none, which
luxury dive boats offer the shortest journey times to some all ensures maximum enjoyment during your diving holiday.
of Thailand’s top dive sites. A relaxed and professional
atmosphere, genuine commitment to the environment and Their brand new speedboat, Trinity, represents the perfect
experienced guides who know the dive sites and their secrets symbiosis between speed, safety and comfort. This unique
will ensure this dive holiday will rank as one of your best. speedboat – designed by Sea Bees to suit local requirements
– affords generous space for diving equipment, fresh water
Winners of the 2010 Project AWARE Environmental shower, toilet and comfortable seating – all to meet the high
Achievement Award, EU Sustainable Tourism Award and standards of the Sea Bees fleet. Even the faraway dive sites,
recommended by Lonely Planet, TripAdvisor & Scubadviser, such as Hin Daeng and Hin Mouang, can be comfortably
Scubafish are an ideal dive base, whether you or your kids are reached in about one hour.
starting out, fun diving or continuing your dive-education.
Scubafish is the dive centre of choice for divers in the south of
Koh Lanta and returning guests to this area.

134 135
DIRECTORY POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIRECTORY - KOH LANTA
Koh Lanta
How to get there Dive facilities
Koh Lanta Yai can be reached by scheduled boat services The majority of the local operators are in Saladan on Koh
from Krabi Town, Koh Phi Phi Don, Phuket and Ban Baw Lanta Yai, although the more established also have centres
Muang pier northwest of Trang Town. To reach the island via at a number of the island’s resorts. There’s also one dive
the town, transfer by minibus or taxi to the pier at Ban Baw centre in Pak Meng on the mainland.
Muang, around 40km north of town. The recommended way
to access Koh Lanta Yai is to arrive at Krabi Town and transfer All the local operators offer dive education and daily dive
to the boat service or arrive at the airport and have the dive trips, while some of the more established dive centres carry
operator arrange the connecting road transfer. a retail selection.

By air: Koh Lanta can be reached from the nearby airports Dive trips
in Krabi and Trang. Whichever airport is used, a transfer will
All trips depart from the northern fishing port of Saladan
need to be arranged to the island. This takes around an hour
at around 08.00hrs and return during the late afternoon.
from either airport and is best arranged in advance through
Included in the price are refreshments, fruit, drinking water,
one of the dive operators.
lunch and Divemaster(s) services.
Via Trang. Daily flights depart Bangkok’s Don Muang airport.
Flight time is 90 minutes. For more information contact The cost of day trips varies depending on the destination.
Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand, Snorkellers and non-divers are welcome to join scheduled
Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. diving trips; snorkelling equipment is available. The larger
Via Krabi. Daily flights depart Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi dive boats will carry fresh water tanks for rinsing diving and
International and Don Muang airports. Flight times average photographic equipment.
80 minutes. There are also flights from Koh Samui. The
three main carriers are: Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand,
Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Hospitals
Nok Air: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside Thailand,
The nearest hospitals are in Trang Town.
Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Thai Airways International: Tel. +66
(0)2 356 1111. Racha Damnern Hospital, Tel. +66 (0)75 211203
Watana Pat Hospital, Tel. +66 (0)75 218332
By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Southern
Bus Terminal twice daily. Journey time is 17hrs. For Trang Chatasongkroh Hospital, Tel. +66 (0)75 218060
information on the bus service contact Bangkok Southern Note that, if possible, it is better to head for the amenities
Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. and emergency services on Phuket. The Bangkok Hospital
Phuket has a permanent ambulance based in Krabi Town
By Boat: There are daily boat transfers to and from Krabi
which serves Koh Lanta, Tel. 1719
Town, Koh Phi Phi and Phuket.
By train: Three types of service run from Bangkok to Trang Recompression chambers
and as it is a 15hr journey it is advisable to travel sleeper The nearest recompression chambers are on Phuket.
class. Trains can be booked up to 90 days in advance – For details see page 88.
recommended as they fill up quickly. For information
regarding train service contact Hua Lumphong Railway
Station, Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010.
Dive courses
Where to eat Local instruction has a choice of CMAS, PADI and SSI training
Virtually all the island’s resorts have their own eateries. If programmes, the complete range of which is available,
they don’t, it’s only a short stroll along the beach to one that including the professional levels of Divemaster and Instructor.
does! There are a few independent restaurants and bakeries There are also a number of speciality courses, which run over
around the island. The port of Saladan has a worthy selection two to three days. The courses’ timetables are structured to
of local fare, seafood restaurants, pizzerias and bakeries. suit both students and dive centres.

For best information and insight on where and what to eat,


see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of For more information on Koh Lanta contact Tourism Authority
2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)76 212213, (0)76 211036.
136 137
POCKET GUIDE
DIVEDIVESITES
THAILAND

Koh Tao

1 4
5
6

Koh Tao – or Turtle Island as it’s affectionately referred to


– is the northernmost and smallest in the chain of the three
‘inhabited’ islands in the Samui Archipelago, with an area
of 21 sq km. The south and west coastlines are dotted with
white sandy beaches: the north and east coasts have a couple
of small sandy bays but are predominantly formed by large
granite boulders stacked high above the water and rising to
fringe the island’s forests.

The island’s single town, Mae Haad, is located on the


western coast. There’s a bold selection of restaurants with
international and local menus, and a post office, internet
services, general provisions shops and a handful of diving
centres and credible retail outlets purveying diving
equipment and accessories.

Diving around Koh Tao


The diving around Koh Tao is amongst the best in the Gulf
of Thailand with enough variety to satisfy all levels of divers.
There are deep shipwrecks, (some only suitable for technical
divers) and towering submerged pinnacles, with their craggy
rock faces seemingly alive with various hard and soft corals.
These sites are constantly visited by large pelagics. In contrast
are dives along gentle sloping coral reefs. These are good
places to see many different species of laminate and foliaceous
corals and a rich diversity of marine life. There’s a few good
snorkelling sites which can be reached off the beach of Nang
Yuan island.

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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - KOH TAO
Koh Tao
1 Chumphon Pinnacles 4 Nang Yuan – Japanese Gardens
Location: About 5km northwest of Nang Yuan. Location: Nang Yuan’s southeastern bay.
Depth: Average 20m / Maximum 36m Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m
This is Koh Tao’s most impressive site, and without doubt Although the general conditions may be the same, this site is
one of the most popular. Divers revisiting the island not a replica of the previous site. As you head south towards
always ask when the earliest scheduled trip to Chumphon the rocks, the sand is slowly replaced by boulder corals rich
Pinnacles is! in small bivalves and plume worms. Beyond the boulder
corals is a shallow sloping reef formed of table staghorns
The site consists of four interconnected underwater and various leaf corals; black-banded sea kraits intertwine
pinnacles which tower up from around 34m; the highest around the branches, while pufferfish and damselfish create
peaks are 16m Below the surface. This is an ideal place to their own blankets of colour.
spot many pelagics. Large schools of great barracuda, big-
eyed jacks, tuna, mackerel, goldbody and giant trevally Following the reef east, you approach a number of small
are all frequent visitors. Whale sharks, with accompanying caves and overhangs; these serve as shelters for many
striped remoras and pilot fish are sighted here with more blue-spotted ribbontail rays. A good selection of Phyllidia
frequency than any other site in the Gulf. Bulky grey reef nudibranchs feed on the rock-encrusting sponges. This is a
sharks are seen in the depths away from the base of the good site for observing passing turtles.
rocky structure.
5 White Rock
2 Green Rock Location: About 1km south of Nang Yuan.
Location: 50m off the northern shore of Nang Yuan. Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 22m
Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 25m This is a very enjoyable dive, suitable for both novice
Divers come here for the tremendous selection of and experienced divers. The site consists mainly of two
adventurous swimthroughs provided by large archways, submerged pinnacles, the higher of which is covered by only
caverns, caves and crevices which cut through the matrix of 2m of water.
submerged rocks. There are many groupers, blue-spotted
ribbontail rays and yellowmargin triggerfish, which can be The surfaces are broken by a number of elevated shelves
aggressive – especially if protecting their nests during the graced with a host of honeycomb groupers, long-spined
spawning season. black sea urchins, nudibranchs and various sea anemones.
Radiant trees of soft corals mix with knob and pore corals, and
This is a good place to see green and hawksbill turtles. are rich with colourful plume worms. Small moray eels, crabs
Green Rock makes an interesting night-dive. The triggerfish and shrimps have taken up residence in the many cracks and
secure themselves in the smaller crevices for the night and crannies of the rock faces. There are also many titan triggerfish,
the parrotfish sleep in their cocoons while the nocturnal some of which occasionally act quite aggressively. White
community comes to life. Rock is the area’s most popular night-diving destination. You
can see a large resident green turtle, hermit crabs and giant
3 Nang Yuan – Northwest Bay barracuda, attracted to the rock by smaller fish.
Location: Northwest bay off Nang Yuan.
Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m 6 Hin Wong
Follow the rocks northwards to find large numbers of black Location: About 100m off Hin Wong Bay.
sea cucumbers scattered around rocks and lesser star Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 26m
boulder corals, heavily pitted with multicoloured plume The site consists mainly of a large tabletop rock formation
worms and bivalves. The larger rocks, rich in foliaceous with an array of soft corals scattered over the surrounding
and soft corals, provide small-scale wall-dives and swim- area. The rocky plateau is almost completely obscured by fire
arounds. Neptune barrel sponges are covered in long white corals. East of it, the sandy bottom slopes steeply down to
alabaster tubeworms. The rocks are interspersed with small the site’s maximum depth past other, slightly smaller granite
elevated sections hosting gardens of sea anemones. structures.

Around and beyond the rocks the fish life becomes more The resident fish are dominated by blue-spotted and red
prolific. There are lots of bullethead parrotfish, checkerboard coral groupers, bannerfish and moorish idols. Fusiliers and
wrasse, red-tailed butterflyfish and emperor angelfish, and snappers are found in small groups in the deeper waters. This
large white snappers, cuttlefish and jacks. is a fairly reliable place to see green and hawksbill turtles.
140 141
DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE
DIVE CENTRES
DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - KOH TAO
Koh Tao Koh Tao
7 Ao Leuk
Location: Koh Tao’s southeast coast.
BANS DIVING RESORT
Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m Sairee Beach
This is really a diver-training site, and provides an excellent Tel. +66 (0) 77 456466
alternative to the two at Nang Yuan: if weather makes one Fax. +66 (0) 77 456057
inaccessible, the other will not be. The seascape is ideal for e. info@bansdivingresort.com
those taking their first breaths beneath the ocean’s surface. w. www.bansdivingresort.com
This leading PADI 5 Star Career
The sand is broken by small mounds of staghorn corals Development Centre (CDC) and Go Eco Operator has been
and numerous patches of long-spined black sea urchins. consistently awarded for its ‘Outstanding Contribution to
Mushroom corals lie individually scattered, as do small Diving’, including most recently, in 2009 and 2010. They
sponge-encrusted rocks. offer the full range of diving courses from beginner through
instructor in every major language. All Instructor Development
The dominating species among the many fish around these Course’s (IDC) are led by Platinum Course Director, Tim Hunt.
undulating rocks are parrotfish, wrasse, juvenile snappers, Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental
squirrelfish and soldierfish. Away from the rocks, numbers of Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation | Tech diving
yellowtail barracuda and schooling bannerfish pass by.
Bans Diving Resort has unmatched facilities including
two swimming pools, 4 large dive boats, 7 air-conditioned
8 Red Rock (Shark Island) classrooms beach bar and restaurant and accommodation to
Location: 1km off the southern tip of Koh Tao. suit all budgets - from standard pool view rooms to ocean
Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 28m view apartments. Other services include snorkelling trips,
The good thing about this site, provided access is possible, technical dive training & daily fun dives along with travel
is that you can virtually always have a pleasant dive; it also booking and internet services.
offers very good night-diving. The site consists of a steeply Their sister centre, ‘Sunshine Divers’, is situated at the
sloping reef. southern tip of the island in relaxing surroundings. Both
locations pride themselves on new equipment, international
The shallower part, around the northeast section, varies and professional instruction as well as a truly fun atmosphere
from 4m to 2m and is an excellent place to snorkel. Lavish in which to dive.
sea anemone gardens and table corals are interspersed
with large flat-topped rocks, providing a playground for a
multitude of reef-fish: titan triggerfish, pairs of blue-ringed
angelfish, lunar and bicolour wrasse, large parrotfish and
fusiliers. In the sand, blue-spotted stingrays can be seen.
There have also been reliable sightings of hawksbill and
green turtles, and as the name implies, reef sharks!

9 Southwest Pinnacles
Location: About 7km southwest of Koh Tao.
Depth: Average 17m / Maximum 28m
These three submerged pinnacles represent a series of short
wall-dives. The more noticeable of the surrounding reef-life
includes groupers, schooling bannerfish, moorish idols and
humpback snappers. In the gullies between the rocks are
many bushy black corals, sea whips and gorgonian sea fans,
all in relatively good health. Butterflyfish, including raccoon
and threadfin, share these waters. The walls of the pinnacles
have many Neptune barrel sponges, which increase in size the
deeper they are.

Away from the rocks there are many pelagics, including great
barracuda and juvenile yellowtails, mackerel, trevallies, dog-
faced tuna, rainbow runners and big-eye jacks.
142 143
DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - KOH TAO
Koh Tao

PLANET SCUBA SCUBA JUNCTION


Mae Haad Sairee Beach
Tel. +66 (0)77 456164
Tel/fax. +66 (0)77 456110
Fax. +66 (0)77 456013
e. tao@planetscuba.net
w. www.planetscuba.net e. info@scuba-junction.com, w. www.scuba-junction.com
Planet Scuba, a PADI 5 Star IDC Center, Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental
has over 25 years experience in scuba Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
diver education and dive tours in
Thailand. Nitrox for Free is the latest addition to their Scuba Junction is an SSI Platinum and PADI Palm Resort and,
services. since opening 16 years ago, the centre’s emphasis has been
on quality, service and safety. They have a newly designed
Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental dive shop, equipment room and free internet service. ALL dive
Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation groups are limited to FOUR divers, with new dive computers
being supplied to every diver. The full range of prescription
Regular diving courses, from beginner to professional, lenses are also available. All equipment has just been
conducted with the highest level of instruction, are all purchased new (February 2011) and is serviced every six
available on a daily basis. The ‘Go Pro’ entry level to Instructor months to the highest EUROPEAN Standards.
packages can take participants from complete beginner up
to diving professional. The team has been brought together through mutual friends.
All are long-standing members and all are qualified to teach
Planet Scuba also offers unbeatable diving and both PADI and SSI courses from beginner to professional.
accommodation deals with a choice of fan-cooled rooms They’ve been nominated by www.i-escape.com five straight
right on the beach, deluxe garden bungalows with cable years as ‘Best Dive Operator on Koh Tao’ and are highly
TV and hot water or air-conditioned superior sea view recommended by www.lonleyplanet.com, www.tripadvisor.
studio suites and up to 6 boat dives per day from the 37m com and www.facebook.com
Waverunner. Whatever your budget, they are committed in
taking good care of you. Scuba Junction takes marine conservation close to their heart;
being an active member of Green Fins Thailand, they help to
promote sustainable dive tourism, eco friendly dive techniques
and conduct regular beach and underwater clean-ups.

144 145
DIRECTORY POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIRECTORY - KOH TAO
Koh Tao
How to get there For best information and insight on where and what to eat,
Koh Tao can be reached directly by sea and indirectly by air, see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of
rail and road. 2010 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com

By air: There are no airports on Koh Tao, but flights to Dive facilities
neighbouring Koh Samui provide relatively easy access to the
Many operators display high certifications of merit from their
island. Flight routes are as follows:
various affiliated training agencies for all-round service, and
Bangkok Airways: Daily flights from (domestic) Krabi, Phuket rightly so; the average standards found throughout the island’s
and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport and from diving community are impressive. All operators have their
(international) Hong Kong and Singapore to Koh Samui. own, or are associated to a nearby source of, accommodation.
Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, The larger resorts all have their own restaurants. If they don’t
Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. there’s one close by. Internet services are also becoming more
Thai Airways International: Daily flights from Bangkok’s commonplace in the island’s dive centres.
Suvarnabhumi International Airport to Koh Samui and Surat
Thani (on the mainland). Contact: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111. Dive trips
Nok Air: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to Most of the diving facilities have their own dive boats. Some
Surat Thani. Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside trips include fruit and soft beverages whereas others provide
Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. only drinking water. Weather permitting, local dive sites are
Transfer to connecting boat services is by air-conditioned visited twice daily, once in the morning and again in the
minibus. Two high speed catamarans depart twice daily afternoon. Day trips to Sail Rock and the Samran Pinnacles
(weather permitting). Both boats stop off at Koh Phangan to leave only in the morning and include lunch. All trips offer
pick up and drop off passengers. The overall trip takes around two dives and include equipment.
two hours and is the preferred way to reach Koh Tao from
the neighbouring islands. The catamarans also sail between
Hospitals & recompression chambers
Chumphon and Koh Tao on a daily basis. For further information
contact Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran: Tel. +66(0)77 The nearest hospitals and recompression chambers are
247401 or Seatran Discovery: Tel. +66 (0)77 246086-8. those located on Koh Samui. See page 183 for details.
By bus and boat: All-in packages from Bangkok to Koh Although hospitals do not exist on Koh Tao, there’s a
Tao are available daily. They generally depart Khao San physicians clinic on Sairee Beach which is affiliated with
Road early evening and travel overnight to arrive on Koh the Bangkok Hospital Samui on Koh Samui. The clinic’s
Tao the following morning. Packages include both bus resident doctor is proficient in diving medicine and regularly
and boat. For more information contact Seatran Discovery: consults with the Badalveda Diving Medicine Network.
Tel. +66 (0)77 246086-8.
Alternatively, VIP air-conditioned buses travel from Bangkok The clinic has a number of beds and there’s an evacuation
daily. The journey breaks in Chumphon Town; the passenger procedure to the recompression chamber at Bangkok
ferry pier on the Thapao River is 30 minutes by local bus or Hospital Samui, which can be contacted via the Diving
taxi. For more information on bus services contact Bangkok Medicine Hotline. Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482
Southern Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, 02 435 1200.
By train and boat: Express and Sprinter trains depart
Bangkok Hua Lumphong Railway Station daily. For further Dive courses
information regarding train services contact Hua Lumphong This is a great place to indulge in diver training; the facilities
Railway Station: Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010. are good, the accommodation comfortable and the courses
are both enjoyable and economical. Instruction on the island
Where to eat follows BSAC, CMAS, PADI and SSI training structures. It’s
The majority of the dive resorts are self-contained with their possible to become certified to all levels of recreational and
own restaurants. If they’re not, it’s a short walk to the nearest technical training, including instructor.
eatery – and it’s not all local fare! If you fancy sampling a
delicious meal of international favourites, including Indian,
Italian and Mexican, drop into one of the many restaurants in For more information on Koh Tao, contact Tourism Authority
Mae Haad and on Sairee Beach. of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)77 281828.
146 147
DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - KOH PHANGAN
Koh Phangan
1 Koh Ma
Location: Off the northwest coast of Koh Phangan.
Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 30m
This is considered the most interesting Koh Phangan site.
1 The marine life is good and the corals reasonably healthy.
Away from the reef are schools of fusiliers, red snappers and
blue-striped grunts; groups of cuttlefish occasionally mingle
with pairs of Imperial and blue-ringed angelfish. Honeycomb
KOH PHANGAN groupers, parrotfish, wrasse and butterflyfish stay closer to
the reefs, and anemones and sponges encrust it. The reef itself
consists mainly of numerous boulders of lesser star, double
2
star and brain corals of varying sizes; the deeper waters have
black corals dividing up the rocky borderline.

3 2 Koh Tae Nok


Location: Outer of the two islands off the west coast.
4
Depth: Average 16m / Maximum 25m
When the visibility is good this rarely dived site can be very
As Koh Samui has gradually succumbed to mainstream enjoyable. There is little coral damage around this site, and
tourism, Koh Phangan remains the most popular backpackers’ the specimens are reasonably healthy. The reef-flat consists
island in the Gulf of Thailand. Covering around 190 sq km, its of various table corals and small boulders of star corals pitted
mountainous terrain is covered in dense jungle, with granite with bivalves. The waters provide interesting snorkelling, a
outcrops scattered around the coast. There are plenty of nice rainbow of colours being added by wrasse, parrotfish and
beaches, many in small, picturesque bays. Most of the island’s various chromis and damselfish. The steep, sometimes
amenities are found in around the town of Thong Sala and the sheer reef here consists mainly of gorgonian sea fans and
two Haad Rin beaches. encrusting coraline.

It was not until the inauguration of the island’s infamous On the wall-like reef-slope are many barrel sponges covered
‘Full Moon’ parties in the 1980s that travellers began arriving in tubeworms and these continue right down to the sea-bed,
in large numbers. Clubbers and ravers stayed on, earning which they share with black sea cucumbers and patches of
Koh Phangan its reputation as the ‘Ibiza of the Orient’ but sea urchins. Fusiliers, rabbitfish and snappers hang in mid-
there is also a well established alternative scene, with Tai Chi, water and black-tip reef sharks occasionally sweep past.
meditation, open-air yoga and other New Age pursuits. Most A tiny translucent shrimp in a featherstar
of these activities are centred on the Haad Rin beaches on
the southeast coast.

Diving around Koh Phangan


Koh Phangan, like Koh Samui, is an ideal departure point
for sites in the Ang Thong Marine National Park, the Samran
Pinnacles and Sail Rock. But, as they are nearer, divers benefit
from shorter journey times and being first to arrive at the
sites. It also exclusively opens up night diving opportunities
at Sail Rock! Two-day excursions run to the sites around Koh
Tao. It takes about 3hrs to reach Koh Tao’s southern sites.

Visibility around Koh Phangan averages only about four


metres; the highest expectancy is 25m. Marine life around
the reefs is fair, particularly with small-medium sized fish,
but sites are seldom visited by large pelagics. There are
occasional sightings of small juvenile reef sharks, turtles and
stingrays.

148 149
DIVE SITES DIVE CENTRES
Koh Phangan Koh Phangan
3 Haad Yuan
Location: The headland at the north end of Haad Rin.
SAIL ROCK DIVERS
Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 12m Chaloklum
Primarily used as a diver-training site, this is in fact quite an Tel. +66 (0)86 470 9325
acceptable dive around a wide, shallow undulating reef. Fax. +66 (0)77 374321
It is broken by many large domed rocks that lie in forests
of black sea whips. Many of the rocks are, in addition, e. info@sailrockdiversresort.com
highlighted by small trees of soft coral. This makes a suitable w. sailrockdiversresort.com
area for snorkellers, who will also enjoy its array of colourful Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental
reef-fish and diverse invertebrates, including featherstars, Retail | Snorkelling | Tech diving
nudibranchs and several species of cowrie shells. Chaloklum’s first 5 STAR Instructor Development Center,
Sail Rock Divers has other offices in Salad Beach Resort and
The usual reef-fish, like parrotfish and wrasse, are present but Haad Rin – and is the only school on the island with a Course
in small numbers. Nurse sharks and blue-spotted ribbontail Director on staff and 3m deep training pool.
stingrays are sometimes seen away from the reef. For those All courses, from Bubble Maker for the kids up to Instructor,
trained in cave diving, is a narrow dog-legged cave, 15m are available as are 7-month Go Pro packages. A team of
long. award winning MASTER INSTRUCTORS guarantee safety and
enjoyment with groups no larger than four students.
4 Koh Kon Rin
The centre’s purpose built luxury dive boat and fast
Location: South of Koh Phangan’s southeastern cape. speedboat serve the dive sites around Koh Tao, Chumphon
Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 27m and Sail Rock without having to spend all day travelling!
The eastern half of this dive circumnavigates a large rocky
outcrop; the rock’s northern side has an average depth Nitrox is available to all qualified in enriched diving and
of 12m while the southern face drops off to the site’s training is available for those wishing to learn. A FREE pick up
service, pool try dives and advice are all offered. After diving,
maximum depth. This, the best section of the site, is a finish your day with a delicious cocktail at the poolside bar.
wall with numerous barrel sponges, oysters and clams on
the rock face. Spiny lobsters and moray eels can often be
seen concealing themselves in the nooks and crannies. As
you head east the wall disappears and you find instead,
at about 15m, an area of large rocks intermixed with sea
whips. Black-tip reef sharks have been spotted along the
site’s southern perimeter.
Triplefin

150 151
DIRECTORY POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIRECTORY - KOH PHANGAN
Koh Phangan
How to get there For best information and insight on where and what to eat,
Koh Phangan can be reached indirectly by air, rail and road see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of
and directly by sea. 2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com

By air: There are no airports on Koh Phangan, but flights to Dive facilities
neighbouring Koh Samui provide relatively easy access to the
Koh Phangan is becoming an increasingly popular diving
island. Flight routes are as follows:
destination and there’s a selection of facilities on the island
Bangkok Airways: Daily flights from (domestic) Krabi, Phuket ranging from small dive centres up to 5-star resort operations
and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport and from to meet the growing demand. These are backed up by
(international) Hong Kong and Singapore to Koh Samui. numerous booking offices, which − although found along the
Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, island’s beaches − mainly concentrate along the west coast.
Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555.
Thai Airways International: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Dive trips
Suvarnabhumi International Airport to Koh Samui and Surat
The price per diver for visiting the local sites is inclusive of all
Thani (on the mainland). Contact: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111.
equipment, boat, Divemaster, fruit and soft drinks. Day trips to
Nok Air: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to Ang Thong Marine Park, the Samran Pinnacles and Sail Rock
Surat Thani. Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside are also all-inclusive and you even get lunch and breakfast!
Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. Local dive trips include a number of sites accessed directly off
By bus: Daily VIP air-conditioned buses from Bangkok’s the beach as well as some dived from Longtail boats.
Southern Bus Terminal. The journey to Surat Thani takes 12
hours. Buses connect with the Express Boat in Surat Thani, Hospitals & recompression chambers
or continue for an extra hour’s journey to join the ferry boat The nearest hospitals and recompression chambers are
in Donsak. For information contact Bangkok Southern Bus those located on Koh Samui. See page 183 for details.
Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200.
Phangan Medical Center in Ban Tai, to the south of Thong
By boat: Express boats depart five times daily from Surat Sala, is run by Bangkok Hospital Samui and is open 24
Thani pier, and there is a passenger ferry (day and night) from hours. Tel. +66 (0)75 239599
Donsak, east of Surat Thani town. The journey to Koh Phangan Diving Medicine Hotline Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482
takes two and a half hours. All boats arrive at Thong Sala jetty.
Express Boats leave Na Thon pier regularly between 07.00hrs
and 17.00hrs and arrive at Thong Sala 45 minutes later.
Dive courses
The full range of dive courses is available on the island, up to
Boats also depart from Koh Samui’s Bo Phut pier and arrive at and including the level of Instructor. There is also a range of
Haad Rin beach 30 minutes later. Two high speed catamarans technical diver training. Course prices are typical of the area
depart Koh Samui twice daily (weather permitting). For further and there are good deals available for group and multiple
more contact Seatran Discovery: Tel. +66 (0)77 246086-8 or bookings. Courses are available in a variety of languages.
Lomprayah High Speed Catamaran: Tel. +66(0)77 247401.
By train: There are two worthy train services from Bangkok For more information on Koh Phangan contact Tourism
to Surat Thani. The ‘Express’ train, which leaves Bangkok Hua Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)77 281828.
Lumphong Railway Station every hour or so and takes around Sail Rock
12 hours, and the ‘Sprinter’ train, which departs five times
daily and takes around nine hours. For further information
regarding train services, contact Hua Lumphong Railway
Station: Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010.

Where to eat
Aside from all the eateries and bustling activity found at the
two Haad Rin beaches, the majority of the island’s resorts
have their own restaurants. Most have a good selection of
dishes following Thai and European recipes, and of course
there’s always the delicious local seafood.
152 153
DIVE SITES
Koh Samui
2
1

i v i n g
a b o ut D
t ju s t
No
3

5
6
4

Launching May 2011


May-Oct: Koh Samui

The fabulous beaches of Koh Samui have been attracting


visitors for decades. The island – the third largest in Thailand
– is now firmly on the international tourist map. Covering
247 sq km, the island lies 35km off the coast of Surat Thani.
Koh Samui’s central region, comprising almost two-thirds of
the island, consists of thickly wooded mountainous terrain,
with coconut palms interspersed by gushing streams and Make your dreams a reality...
waterfalls.
diving, snorkelling, kayaking, cocktail bar,
Finding somewhere to stay on the island couldn’t be spa treatments, sunbathing, sunset cruises,
easier and you don’t have to look far to find luxury hotels, gourmet beach picnics
boutique resorts, villas and natural spas; unexpectedly
most are reasonably priced. There’s also all manner of major
retail chains and fast food outlets nestled under a blaze of World class divingtSpeed tComfort
neon signs. Thankfully, that’s not the case all around the BSAC & PADI Instruction
island. In a nutshell, these changes have transformed Koh
Samui from what was once a ‘backpacker haven’ to a ‘family +66 (0)85 475 0447
friendly’ resort island. www.blueworldsafaris.com
mike.blueworldsafaris@gmail.com
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DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - SAMUI
Koh Samui
Diving around Koh Samui 3 Matlang Island
There are several enjoyable dives to be had around Koh Samui Location: Off Chaweng Beach’s northern apex.
itself, all but one of which are reached by 10-90 minutes boat Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 9m
trips. However, the best sites are further north, requiring The reef-flat is built up mainly of table staghorns, interspersed
boat trips. More experienced divers can enjoy exciting and with gardens of sea anemones. The waters above these
exhilarating deep wall-dives; divers of all levels can enjoy a structures provide some enjoyable snorkelling.
variety of fringing reefs.
The dive continues along a shallow, sloping reef consisting
1 Samran Pinnacles mainly of elkhorn, vase and foliaceous corals. Small rocks
Location: About 19km north of Koh Phangan. play both anchor and host to numerous gorgonian sea fans
Depth: Average 18m / Maximum 28m and whips. The marine life is sporadic but, at the eastern
Pelagic enthusiasts will find this site terrific, as you encounter point of the reef, you can occasionally see black-tip reef
school after school of great barracuda, threadfin trevally, big- sharks passing by.
eyed jacks, Spanish mackerel and dog-faced tuna. There are
three main pinnacles – the top of the tallest is 12m below the 4 Chaweng Reef
surface – plus a mountainous terrain of scattered rocks large Location: Towards the northern end of Chaweng Beach.
enough to swim around and explore. The larger of these Depth: Average 5m / Maximum 7m
rocks are obscured by healthy masses of soft corals, featuring A very simple, shallow dive and the only one on the island
shimmering whites, reds, oranges and yellows. Marine life that is accessed directly from the beach. The reef-flat is
around the pinnacles consists mainly of honeycomb groupers, popular with snorkellers as there is plenty to see. The corals
juvenile morays and schooling bannerfish. Large red and white have sustained slight damage from boats and siltation, but
snappers and fusiliers wander in the deeper waters. are still fairly healthy. Parrotfish, wrasse and groupers are all
common residents, with the larger specimens being more
2 Sail Rock apparent towards the northern end of the reef.
Location: 8km east of the Samran Pinnacles.
Depth: Average 22m / Maximum 34m 5 Hin Nippon – Japanese Rock
This site is probably the finest in the Gulf of Thailand. It is a wall- Location: Northernmost point of the Ang Thong Marine
dive surrounded by a number of smaller but still impressive National Park.
pinnacles. On the northern wall; at a depth of 16m, is a great Depth: Average 12m / Maximum 30m
example of a Neptune barrel sponge. This impressive section Many large fallen rocks and boulders form alleyways for
of the wall is also heavily encrusted with orange sponges; adventurous swim-throughs. Closer inspection reveals a
many oysters and clams cling to the craggy surface. diversity of invertebrates and crustaceans. The rocks are
dominated by a gradually sloping reef of healthy coral
The southeast face has a natural chimney eroded into the laminates. Jacks, tuna and juvenile yellowtail barracuda are
rock. You enter a wide orifice at 18m and ascend the chimney familiar passers-by.
to come out at 10m. Poisonous bearded scorpionfish and sea
urchins abound, so dive slowly and carefully, and pay special 6 Koh Wao
attention to your buoyancy! Location: To the southwest of Hin Nippon
Depth: Average 6m / Maximum 20m
Next to the chimney lies an elevated plateau busy with many The bottom composition comprises of small mounds of
forms of marine life. There are gardens of sea anemones lesser star boulder corals punctuated with plume worms:
tenanted by pink anemonefish. Winding yellow margined there are also mixed table staghorns and good examples of
morays explore the holes and crevices, while cleaner and cauliflower, lettuce and vase corals. Into the deeper waters,
painted shrimp, along with medium-sized reef crabs, remain the reef becomes steeper. There are many sea anemones,
in their shelters. and pink anemonefish.

At the eastern end of the wall you can often see great Among the selection of colourful butterflyfish are raccoon,
barracuda – occasionally 3m long – patrolling the depths. red-tailed and copperband. Around the island’s northern tip
Schools of big-eye jacks, tuna and rainbow runners mingle are schools of snappers and fusiliers, and you may be able to
with threadfin trevally in the shallower waters. Whale sharks watch great barracuda and trevallies patrolling the depths.
are often spotted here. During January and February this is a good place to observe
mating cuttlefish.
156 157
DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE CENTRES - KOH SAMUI
Koh Samui

PLANET SCUBA THE DIVE ACADEMY


Chaweng Beach Bophut & North
Chaweng: Tel. +66 (0)77 413049-50 Chaweng
Fax. +66 (0)77 417453 Tel. +66 (0)89 288 4912
Bangrak Pier: Tel. (66) (0) 77 417451 Fax. +66 (0)77 428802
e. sam@planetscuba.net e. info@thediveacademysamui.com
w. www.planetscuba.net w. www.thediveacademysamui.com

Planet Scuba has over 25 years Instruction | Day trips | Nitrox | Gear rental
experience in scuba diver education and dive tours in Thailand Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation
and operates full service dive centres on Koh Samui, offering
personal attention, high quality dive tours, professional The Dive Academy is an English owned PADI 5 Star Instructor
education and an extensive range of retail products. ‘Nitrox Development Centre which can introduce you to your very
for Free’ is the latest addition to their services. Whatever your first breaths underwater up to the opportunity to change
diving needs, the team will do its utmost to ensure you have a your life and live the dream by becoming a PADI Instructor.
diving experience of a lifetime. The Dive Academy provide the highest levels of customer
service and professionalism. They follow the strictest of
Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental training standards put in place by PADI as well as sticking to
Retail | Snorkelling | Accommodation their own very high standards of customer care.
Planet Scuba were the first in South East Asia to be awarded The Dive Academy have arguably the best facilities of
the prestigious PADI Career Development Center Rating any dive school on Koh Samui and their modern, air-
(CDC). The GoPro Entry level to Instructor packages can conditioned classrooms allow you to learn in a relaxed
take participants from complete beginner up to a diving and comfortable environment. They have experienced and
professional. friendly staff who can teach in a number of languages and
Planet Scuba run both daily and overnight tours to all the who will make sure your diving is as safe, fun and enjoyable
popular dive destinations, ranging from the depths of Sail as it could possibly be.
Rock, frequently home to the illusive whale shark, to the Ang
Thong National Marine Park and Koh Tao with their sloping
coral reefs and abundance of exotic and colourful marine life.

158 159
DIVE CENTRES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIRECTORY - KOH SAMUI
Koh Samui
How to get there Dive facilities
Koh Samui can be reached indirectly by air (Surat Thani Koh Samui has a small selection of dive operators, most
airport), rail and road and directly by air and sea. provide diving education in some form or another.
By air: Flight routes are as follows:
Dive trips
Bangkok Airways: Daily flights from (domestic) Krabi, Phuket
and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport and from Daily dive trips and 2-day/1-night excursions to Koh Tao are
(international) Hong Kong and Singapore to Koh Samui. available. All trips include transfers between the dive boat and
Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, resort, light refreshments, fruit and drinks throughout the trip,
Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. lunch, Divemaster(s) services, equipment and 2 full tanks.
Thai Airways International: Daily flights from Bangkok’s
Included in Koh Tao trips are meals and accommodation
Suvarnabhumi International Airport to Koh Samui and Surat
on the island. Snorkellers and non-divers are welcome
Thani (on the mainland). Contact: Tel. +66 (0)2 356 1111.
on scheduled dive trips – equipment and instruction are
Nok Air: Daily flights from Bangkok’s Don Muang Airport to available. Many dive boats carry fresh water for rinsing
Surat Thani. Contact: Within Thailand, Tel. 1318; from outside diving and photographic equipment. Most have toilets and
Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 900 9955. a sheltered area away from the sun, however not all dive
By bus: VIP air-conditioned buses leave Bangkok’s Southern centres run their own boats.
Bus Terminal daily. The journey to Surat Thani takes 12 hours.
Buses connect with boats services as described below. For Hospitals
further information on buses contact Bangkok Southern There are four hospitals on Koh Samui. The better two
Bus Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 435 1199, (0)2 435 1200. are listed here.
Bangkok Hospital Samui just outside Chaweng Beach.
By boat: Express boats depart five times daily from Surat Tel. +66 (0)77 429500
Thani pier for the two and a half hour journey to Na Thon on Samui International Hospital on Chaweng Beach
Koh Samui. Car and passenger ferries depart every half hour Tel. +66(0)77 230781-2
from Donsak, east of Surat Thani town, and take 90 minutes
to the piers at Ban Na Sai and Na Thon. Both are met by local Recompression chambers
transfer buses. From Koh Phangan to Koh Samui there are Badalveda Diving Medicine Network in Bangkok
regular Express Boat and speedboat services from Thong Hospital Samui
Sala and Haad Rin Beach, and two high speed catamarans Diving Medicine Hotline Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482
from Thong Sala twice daily. e. vedainfo@badalveda.com, w. www.badalveda.com
By train: There are two main train services from Bangkok Hyperbaric Services of Thailand on Big Buddha Beach
to Surat Thani. The ‘Express’ train leaves Bangkok Hua Tel. +66 (0)77 427427.
Lumphong Railway Station every hour or so and takes
around 12 hours. The ‘Sprinter’ train departs five times Dive courses
daily and takes around nine hours. For further information Courses for the complete beginner are very popular here
regarding train services contact Hua Lumphong Railway and there’s a good selection of suitable locations for that first
Station: Tel. +66 (0)2 223 7010. experience of breathing underwater. Courses are available
right up to professional qualifications. All the instruction on
Where to eat the island is taught by qualified instructors following BSAC,
There are hundreds of restaurants on the island, mostly CMAS, PADI and SSI diver training programs.
around the beaches. Chaweng has a selection of International
restaurants as do Bo Phut and Lamai. Service can be slow Course prices on the island remain generally relatively stable.
but the food is good and reasonably priced. Koh Samui Due to the location of the better dive sites, courses are slightly
is particularly noted for its delicious seafood and creamy more expensive here than they are on the two neighbouring
coconut dishes. Resorts also have their own restaurants and islands, but most people are happy to pay extra to stay on
many are worth a visit. the more comfortable and lively island of Koh Samui.
For best information and insight on where and what to eat,
see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of For more information on Koh Samui contact Tourism
2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)77 281828.
160 161
DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - KOH CHANG
Koh Chang
The islands amenities mainly focus around the perimeter,
particularly the larger beaches which are all easily accessed by
road. Getting around the island is simple as there are plenty
of pickup trucks and taxis, as well as minibuses travelling to
and from Trat airport. There are also tourist amenities and
accommodation on the island of Koh Mak.

Diving around Koh Chang


The diving here still has an exciting exploratory feel to it and,
1
as they’re spread over a large area, the sites are uncrowded.
Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park has a large selection of
healthy fringing reefs, pinnacles and walls, as well as several
very enjoyable snorkelling sites.

2
In general, visibility averages around 10m, although it can be
in excess of 20m, especially at the sites further south. Marine
life is also more prolific in these areas. There are plenty of
3
colourful reef-dwellers, from minute invertebrates up to
4
5
giant clams. The waters also attract many large pelagics, rays
6
and – quite regularly – whale sharks.

1 Hin Saam Sao


Location: About 1km west of Chai Chet.
7 Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m
9 8
Off the northwest coast of Koh Chang, this dive site has some
10
11 nice corals and rich fish life, but sometimes has poor visibility
due of its close proximity to land. One side of the reef was
destroyed by dynamite but it is recovering nicely.

2 Hin Luk Bat


Mu Koh Chang Marine National Park Location: Around 3km southwest of Koh Chang.
In the country’s easternmost province of Trat, the Mu Koh Depth: Average 11m / Maximum 18m
Chang Marine National Park comprises 52 islands scattered This is one of the prime dive sites around Koh Chang. The
along the coastline close to the Cambodian border. dive is around a pinnacle that acts as refuge to plenty of
schooling fish, making it enjoyable for snorkellers too. The
Established in 1982, it covers just over 650 sq km and is one steeply sloping walls feature numerous barrel sponges and
of Thailand’s least visited national parks. Koh Chang is the shelves of relatively healthy soft corals, colour is added by
second largest island in Thailand, with a footprint covering large areas of Christmas tree worms.
240 sq. km.
The pinnacle itself is surrounded by huge boulders that offer
Blanketed in almost impenetrable virgin rainforest, the hilly great swim-throughs. In the deeper waters are crown of thorn
interior rises to a peak at Khao Join Prasat, which climbs to starfish, bushy black corals, sea whips and small gorgonian
reach 744m as it dominates the centre of the island. Although sea fans. The plankton-enriched waters afford a good diversity
wildlife is sparse, there are wild boars, hornbills, parrots and of marine life, including angelfish, bannerfish, butterflyfish,
sunbirds − all of which can be seen in the forest. fusiliers, groupers, parrotfish, snappers, morays, stingrays, and
barracuda. This is also a good site for night diving.
Many of the island’s inhabitants still make their living from
fishing, although tourism is increasingly making its mark. 3 Hin Rua Tek
Nowadays quite a few of the once-familiar small resorts of Location: 3km south of koh Chang.
bungalows and bamboo huts are being replaced, or joined, Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 20m
by high-end hotels, resorts and spas. This rocky dive site, also referred to as Banana Rock, is in
nice surroundings, which also makes it a popular snorkelling
162 163
DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIVE SITES - KOH CHANG
Koh Chang
destination. Many crevices shelter small critters such as The best features are at depths shallower than 12m, making
shrimps, lobsters and nudibranchs. Although corals are not the site suitable for the less experienced.
in abundance there is a good variety including large tables of
staghorns, gorgonian sea fans, soft corals and sponges. The shallower parts of the reef are characterised by a plentiful
range of reef-fish and small invertebrates. An attraction of
4 Blueberry Hill the deeper waters is that you may be lucky enough to spot
Location: Around 5km south of Koh Chang. a leopard shark or a stingray on the sandy bottom. Being
Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m reasonably sheltered, this is a fine site for night diving.
This site is best described as a bare rock full of fish, although
the south side does have corals! However, this is a great 7 Koh Kra
place for spotting nudibranchs, batfish, groupers, stingrays Location: Off the northeast shore of Koh Rang Yai.
and morays making it well worth visiting. Depth: Average 7m / Maximum 12m
Although snorkelling is the major appeal here, these islands
5 Hin Rap also offer some beautiful diving. The rocks are pitted with
Location: Around 300m south of Blueberry Hill. numerous crevasses rich in marine life, and the corals are
Depth: Average 11m / Maximum 16m very healthy and varied, including big tables of staghorn
This site can be divided into two dives. The first is around the corals co-existing with anemones of all sizes and colours.
rock, and is a good place to spot turtles, batfish, stonefish, Further down, on the sandy bottom, you should be able to
porcupine fish, stingrays, and morays amongst both hard and spot a blue-spotted ribbontail and blotched rays idling.
soft corals. Away from the reef barracudas frequently pass by.
The second, northern section is a bit deeper and displays more 8 Koh Tien West
corals along with a lovely small canyon. Fish life in evidence Location: Off the northwest coast of Koh Rang.
includes anemonefish, angelfish, groupers, parrotfish and Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m
triggerfish. Rays and morays are also regular encounters as is On the south side of the island is an enormous staghorn coral
the occasional turtle. The waters here are more often than not formation well worth exploring, as many fish shelter amongst
very clear and are popular with snorkellers. the sharp coral branches. Also a great snorkelling site.

6 Koh Wai 9 Koh Rang Pinnacles


Location: Immediately east of Koh Khlum. Location: West of Koh Tien West.
Depth: Average 9m / Maximum 20m Depth: Average 15m / Maximum 30m
This is a nice shallow fringing reef, consisting of mainly hard A great multi-level site and a strong favourite with underwater
corals with soft corals along the deeper part of the reef-slope. photographers. Of the two main pinnacles, one is at 12m, the
The Koh Chang Archipelago’s clear waters are perfect for snorkelling too.

164 165
DIVE SITES POCKET GUIDE
DIVE CENTRES
DIVE THAILAND

Koh Chang Koh Chang


other at 5m; the seabed between them is at 21m. There is a
good shelf of coral on the deeper pinnacle, at about 15m.
SCUBA ZONE
The site’s western side consists of coral drop-offs. Parrotfish White Sand Beach, Kai Bae
are plentiful and reef sharks are often spotted. Smaller blue- & Lonely Beach
spotted ribbontail rays are on view at about 12m. Pelagics Tel. +66 (0)80 094 7111, 7222
often intrude into the surrounding waters, most of which are e. info@scuba-kohchang.com
barracuda, but there are also cobias. w. www.scuba-zone.com

10 Koh Yak and Koh Laun Re-branded from Scuba Evolution


this English owned and operated
Location: About 1 km to the east of Koh Rang.
5 Star PADI Dive Center has been ahead of the competition
Depth: Average 8m / Maximum 12m for years, offering everything from snorkelling to rebreather
These small islands are fringed with a very beautiful coral diving to all their loyal customers as well as new!
reef, with a rich diversity of marine life. Both islands are small
enough to dive around, and due to the shallow depths there Instruction | Day trips | Liveaboard | Nitrox | Gear rental
should be enough time to explore them in detail. Retail | Snorkelling | Tech diving | Accommodation
The dive centre’s are all very customer orientated, and offer
11 Hin Kuak Ma a great service with good value for money in all aspects of
Location: About 1km east Koh Yak and Koh Laun. diving, including a comprehensive range of PADI and TDI
Depth: Average 10m / Maximum 16m courses as well as daily dive trips.
This is one of the best dives in this area. The south side of
The spacious dive boat has many comfortable features
the site is a rocky wall, where it is good to spot a variety of including a large kitting up area, carpeted upper deck for
marine life such as eels, nudibranchs and stonefish. The relaxing and even a great chef that cooks between dives! All
opposite side of the rock is a slope, covered in coral, and rental equipment is less than a tear old and is well maintained.
with an abundance of fish. Amongst the common residents There’s also a large selection of retail equipment.
of reef fishes, blue-spotted ribbontail rays and morays are
Experience the difference and enjoy all the wonderful corals
occasionally encountered, along with bamboo sharks and
and marine life Koh Chang’s Marine National Park has to
turtles. The waters around this site, also referred to as Three offer. See more fish and not other divers!
Finger Rock, are good for snorkelling.
Anemone crab in magnificent sea anemone

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DIRECTORY POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
DIRECTORY - KOH CHANG
Koh Chang

How to get there Nitrox is available for those qualified, and for those not,
Koh Chang can be reached indirectly by air and road and instruction is available. Night diving is offered, but its best
directly by sea. to enquire in advance as timetables vary. Overnight diving
safaris to the area are occasionally organized by Pattaya Dive
By air: Bangkok Airways fly to Trat airport on a daily basis, Centre in Pattaya City (See listing on Page 189).
where taxis can be arranged for the transfer to the island. For
more information contact Bangkok Airways: Within Thailand,
Dive courses
Tel. 1771; from outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)2 265 5555. Dive courses are available in several languages. Full
equipment and certification is included in all the course
By bus: Air-conditioned buses leave daily from Bangkok’s prices. Courses available are non-certification try-out
Eastern Bus Terminal. The journey to Trat Town takes around experiences as well as the full range of recreational courses
five hours. On arrival, passengers transfer to the pier as Laem from beginner up to the professional level of instructor are
Ngop. For further information contact Bangkok Eastern Bus scheduled on a daily basis.
Terminal: Tel. +66 (0)2 391 4900.

By boat: Car and passenger ferries depart every 30 minutes Hospitals


from Laem Ngop for the short crossing. There is one hospital and one international clinic on Koh
Chang.
Where to eat Koh Chang Government Hospital in Ban Dan Mai, on
The island’s resorts have their own eating facilities, and most the northern section of the western coast
have a good choice of local seafood dishes and a European Tel. +66 (0)39 521657, (0)39 586131.
menu. There are also plenty of independent eateries on all Koh Chang International Clinic on White Sand Beach
the main beaches and dotted along the roads in-between. (associated with the Bangkok Hospital Trat)
Tel. +66 (0)39 551151-2, (0)81 863 3609.
One particular place worth checking out is the series of Bangkok Hospital Trat in Trat Town on the mainland
seafood restaurants along the narrow jetty at Bang Bao, here 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from
you can pick and choose your menu from what’s on display. outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)39 532735
For best information and insight on where and what to eat, Recompression chambers
see Pocket Guide FOOD Thailand − launching first quarter of There is a hyperbaric chamber in the Koh Chang
2011 − and its online version, www.foodguidethailand.com Government Hospital, with a trained nurse on standby,
but not a qualified doctor.
Dive facilities
Koh Chang Government Hospital
There’s a good selection of operators, large and small, mainly Tel. +66 (0)39 521657, (0)39 586131.
down the western coastline. Most have associated booking
The next nearest chamber is located over 160km away
offices and facilities in various resorts and shopping plazas.
in Pattaya’s Bangkok Hospital Pattaya and is part of the
Badalveda Diving Medicine Network.
Testament to the warm, friendly atmosphere is the high level
of repeat business making up a large part of the clientele. Many Bangkok Hospital Pattaya
dive centres also offer a retail selection; if they don’t have an 24 Hr Contacts Centre: Within Thailand, Tel. 1719; from
item in stock, they can have it delivered on the same day. outside Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)38 259999

Dive trips Diving Medicine Hotline Tel. +66 (0)81 989 9482
vedainfo@badalveda.com | www.badalveda.com
Dive trips visit all the local sites, either on dedicated dive
boats or speedboats. Trips commence in the morning
when divers and snorkellers are collected from the various
resorts around the island and taken to the awaiting dive
boats. Trips return in the afternoon at various times For more information on Koh Chang, contact Tourism
depending on which destination has been visited. Authority of Thailand, Tel. +66 (0)38 427662.
168 169
ALPHABETICAL INDEX POCKET GUIDE DIVE THAILAND
ALPHABETICAL INDEX

Dive Centres Destination introductions


All 4 Diving Acadamey, Phuket .......................................................................... 81 Chang (Koh) ................................................................................................................... 162
All 4 Diving, Phuket ................................................................................................... 80 KhaoLak............................................................................................................................... .. 90
Andaman Ocean Safaris, Phuket .................................................................... 82 Krabi............................................................................................................................... ...... 110

Aqua Vision, Krabi ................................................................................................... 115 Lanta (Koh) ...................................................................................................................... 126


Mergui Archipelago ( The)....................................................................................... 107
Bans Diving Resort, Koh Tao ............................................................................ 143
Phangan (Koh) ............................................................................................................... 148
Dive Academy (The), Phuket .............................................................................. 159
Phi Phi (Koh) .................................................................................................................... 118
In Depth Dive College, Phuket ............................................................................ 83 Phuket............................................................................................................................... .... 72
iQ Dive, Khao Lak ......................................................................................................... 91 Samui (Koh) ..................................................................................................................... 154
Ko Lanta Diving Center, Koh Lanta ................................................................ 131 Similan Marine National Park (Mu Koh) ............................................................ 98
Lanta Diver, Koh Lanta ........................................................................................... 132 Surin Marine National Park (Mu Koh) ............................................................... 105
Tao (Koh) ........................................................................................................................... 139
Mermaid Liveaboards, Phuket ............................................................................. 84
Palm Beach Divers, Koh Lanta .......................................................................... 133 Destination directories
Phi Phi Scuba Diving Center, Koh Phi Phi ................................................... 122 Chang (Koh) ................................................................................................................... 168

Planet Scuba, Koh Samui ..................................................................................... 158 Khao Lak .............................................................................................................................. 96


Krabi............................................................................................................................... ...... 116
Planet Scuba, Koh Tao ........................................................................................... 144
Lanta (Koh) ...................................................................................................................... 136
Sail Rock Divers, Koh Phangan .......................................................................... 151
Phangan (Koh) ............................................................................................................... 152
Scuba Cat Diving, Phuket ...................................................................................... 85 Phi Phi (Koh) .................................................................................................................... 124
Scuba Junction, Koh Tao ..................................................................................... 145 Phuket .................................................................................................................................. 88
Scuba Zone, Koh Chang ....................................................................................... 167 Samui (Koh) ..................................................................................................................... 160
Scubafish, Koh Lanta ............................................................................................... 134 Tao (Koh) ........................................................................................................................... 146

Sea Bees Diving, Khao Lak ...................................................................................... 92 Features


Sea Bees Diving, Koh Lanta ................................................................................. 135 About Pocket Guide DIVE Thailand ................................................................... 14
Sea Bees Diving, Phuket .......................................................................................... 86 About the author ............................................................................................................ 12

Sea Dragon Dive Center, Khao Lak .................................................................. 93 Diving and snorkelling in and around Thailand .......................................... 40
Health and safety for divers ..................................................................................... 35
Siam Adventure Divers, Khao Lak .................................................................... 94
Introduction to Thailand ............................................................................................. 22
Viking Divers, Koh Phi Phi .................................................................................... 123
Learning to dive in Thailand .................................................................................... 54
Water World Asia, Phuket ....................................................................................... 87 Travelling to and around Thailand ....................................................................... 28

170 171

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