2009

PanelDiscussionon SustainableTextileforSustainableDevelopment

PanelDiscussionon SustainableTextileforSustainableDevelopment & LaunchofBaselineStudies PromotingEcofriendlyTextilesandCrafts 9November2009 IndiaInternationalCentre,NewDelhi

Context AIACA in partnership with Traidcraft, UK's leading fair trade organization is working on a fouryearprojecttoexploreenvironmentalandhealthandsafetyissuesrelatingtothecrafts and textile sector in India. The project seeks to promote sustainable production (i.e. developmentoflesspollutingandmoreresourceefficientproducts,processesandservices) andsustainableconsumptionpatternsinthecraftsandtextileindustryinIndia.Asapartof research component of this project, two studies have been commissioned. While the first one titled Domestic Market Research for EcoFriendly and Sustainable Textile Products enquires and explores the understanding and potential of marketability of ecofriendly products,thesecondonetitledEnvironment,OccupationalHealthandSafetyissuesinthe crafts sector in India looks into environment, health and safety hazards confronting the sustainability of the craft sector in general and the craftworkers in particular. The draft reports of these two studies have been submitted and it is in this context that AIACA (All India Artisans and Craftworkers welfare Association) organised a panel discussion on Monday, 9th November 2009 to solicit views and comments of eminent people from the sector. InauguralSession The event started with welcome address by Nupur Bahl, Manager, Switch Asia Project brieflyoutliningtheobjectivesandthekeycomponentsoftheprojectfollowedbyinaugural remarks from Laila Tyab Ji, a leading figure in the handicrafts sector in India and also the ChairpersonofDastkar,apremiercraftsupportorganization.Ms.TyabJiinherbriefspeech invited the attention towards the fast changing world and the enormous challenges confrontingthecraftsectorrequiringmoreinnovativeandeffectiveresponses.Shesaidthat craft is an area which is diverse and different and therefore no formulaic treatment will work. We need strategic investment in this sector, and not blanket subsidies she said. DrawingexperiencesfromherassociationwiththePrimeMinistersskillDevelopmentTask Force, she emphasised on the urgent need to have proper data and rigorous research. Furtherdwellingonthesignificanceoftheecofriendlinessinthecraftsector,sheillustrated thecaseofadexterous,hardworkingandalmostphysicallycrippledpotternamedGiriraj andhighlightedtheneedformajorinterventionandrethinkingbythegovernmentaswell

asthecraftcommunityasissueslikehealthhazardstocraftworkersaredoingirreparable damagetothesectorandlivelihoodsofthecraftcommunity. SessionI: Thediscussionsduringthefirstsession,moderatedbyAdarshKumar,EDAIACA,essentially addressed the two key questions .One, what are environmentally friendly products? and two, what is the market potential for such products in India? Adarsh in his initialremarks saidthattheworldtodayisinterestedinecofriendlyproductsandhencethereisaneedto restructurethecraftsectorandlookintofundamentalquestionsastowhatisthenatureof consumer. The technical issues like what is the margin, what are viable market strategies and what are the effective methods; have assumed significance in the light of the new emergingchallenges. In the first session, two presentations were made: one by Nikhil Mathur from Kaarak DevelopmentEnterprisesandthesecondbyHughRoss,aTraidcraftConsultant. The study titled Domestic Market Research for EcoFriendly and Sustainable Textile Products ,based on review of relevant secondary sources and consumer survey including respondentsfromalltherelevantsegmentssuchasAIACA/Craftmarkmembers,Producers /Manufacturers, Suppliers/Buying Houses/Exporters across 4 major cities of India, pointed out that there exists a multiple definition of ecofriendly product and only very limited number of large and very large retailers show interest in ecofriendly products as the majority of retailers are tiny boutiquetype or small shops. The prevalent trends suggest that Ecofriendly products have very short distribution chains with producers/ manufacturers retailing themselves. Exporters are entering domestic markets and Green ideologyseemstobedrivingseveralentrepreneursbutnotbusinessasyet.Themaineco friendlyproductsaregarments,bags,bedlinen;whilenontextileitemsincludecosmetics, gift items, and food. Highlighting the main pitch of the ecofriendly product , the study indicatedanumberofattributessuchastheyarenatural,organic,certified,traditionally Indian,comfortable,handcrafted,biodegradable,theinthing,rural/tribal,directsourcing fromartisansetc. On the sales strategy of ecofriendly products, the study revealed that pricing of Eco friendliness are not translating into premiums and it is being decided as per the product quality visvis customer segment. People do buy ecofriendly products and are ready to pay upto 10 %premium if the product quality is good. However, hardly any promotional strategies are in place and mostly are through word of mouth/exhibitions for the small, medium and tiny ones. No product/brand specific campaign has been launched by large ones. Customers buying decision either fully or partly influenced by ecofriendliness is in the range of 10% to 30%.One of the important revelations of the study is that Its the awareness that is driving growth, not merely affluence and the growing awareness is

increasingly bringing new segments of consumers in the fold of ecofriendliness, especially theserviceclassandtheyouth. The study recommended that efforts should be made to develop products, especially garments and home furnishing, for young professionals. There is ample scope for ecofriendlyproductinchildrensgarmentsanditishighlyrecommendedthatinvestments bemadeindevelopingaecocertificationorientedtowardsdomesticmarkets.Ecofriendly attributeshouldbepromotedinPublicprivatepartnershipmode.Thestudysuggestssome cautions to be observed when it says that ecofriendliness is likely to be only one among manyattributesthataconsumerwouldlookfor.AndhenceQuality,design,prints,colour, etcmustbecompromisedtomaketheproductecofriendly. The second presentation during the first session focussed on Sustainable Textile in EU, understandingofitsmarketandscopesandondevelopmentsregardingecolabellingand certificationsystems. On the definition, two approaches are prevalent: one, Conceptual, i.e. by reducing environmentalimpactandtheotheroneislookingintothesocialroleoftheproduct.The key question around labelling and certification system is whether a product is organic or not.Ifyes,whataretheappropriatelabels?ThereexistsahugenumberofecolabelsinEU owingtodifferentecofriendlyattributesandalsocountryspecificbutharmonizationisalso happening.GOTS(GlobalOrganicTextileStandardization),coupledwiththeFairtrademark is becoming common and desirable now. There are fibreonly labels, as well as process based and labourbased labels. Ecolabels are very successful in home textile in the EU market and it is mainly centred on bed linen, bedspreads, cushions and curtains. GOTS+ FairtrademarkiscalledtheGoldStandard.Thepresenterwasoftheviewthattomakeeco labels successful, it is important to develop a winning product, effective market targeting andevolveasustainablesupplychain. The two presentations were followed by a panel discussion. The panel had 4 discussants. Thefirstpanellist,RajanGandhi,saidthatwhatisecofriendlymaynotnecessarilyalsobe sustainable.Thedisposabilityofaproductsisveryimportantfromsustainabilityangle.He furthernotedthatIndianecolabellingsystemiscomplexandimpractical.Twoministries ministry of environment and forest and ministry of consumer affairs are involved in this which makes the process cumbersome. Then there is the problem of definition and categories.Also,thereisanunspokenfearinthegovt thatithastodo withinternational trade and the WTO. Even if ministry of Environment and forest and Min of Consumer Affairsagree,butMinistryofCommercemaynotbeagreeabletocertainpropositionsowing toitscommitmentstointernationalnegotiationsattheWTO.Italsoneedstobesortedout thatwhatismoreimportantinecolabelling:environmentalimpactorsocialimpact?Its easy to speak of child labour, but where are the safetynets? The govt is wary but this meritssincerediscussionespeciallyinthecivilsociety.

The second panellist, Neelam Chibbar presented an Indian market perspective. She raised pertinent question of focus as to what should be the key focus Craft or sustainable product.Atgloballevel,saleiseasyandthereforeonecangoforgoldstandardbutIndiais differentandstillintheoldmindset.Organicisstillexpensive.Shefurtherhighlightedthe prevalence of plethora of jargons like ecofriendly, environment friendly etc. On TV and internetandothermedia,thenewwordisGreen,itdenotessomanythings.Shepointed outthattherearetoomanygreyareastobeeffectivelyhandled.Therearenosubstantial premiums on designed products. Global trends are heavy towards green. People link organicwithfairandviceversa.Shealsoreiteratedtheimportancetoaddressthesocial concernsinthecraftsectorpointingtothefactthatsomeoftheglobalbrandsaremoving outofChinaonaccountofsustainabilityandsocialissues. Sunil Mande, the third panellist from Sarga Textiles, Banalore talked about a small entrepreneurs perspective: Conceptual as well as business. On Conceptual front he said thatbothfibreandtheprocessesareimportant.Alsotheperipheralslikebutton,packaging got to be in sync with the ecofriendly claims. On Business aspects of ecofriendly textile products he mentioned that prices of ecofriendly products need not be high. However, design is very important. He informed that the government in Karnataka is supporting in termsofprovidingsubsidies. From retailers point of view and supply chain, Smita Mankand representing Fabindia offered a few interesting view points. Drawing from her organisational experience, she assertedthatthestructureofsupplychainhaschangedanditisimportanttorecognisethis changetoincreaseyourvolumeofsales.ThedefinitionofSustainabilityinthecraftsector seems to have acquired a new dimension in the view of operating through community owned companies and community based units making craftspeople and artisan partners. This definition covers things ranging from sustainable livelihood to environmentally sustainable.Inordertodecreasecarbonfootprint,supplychainwillhavetoshortened.She furthernotedthatcustomersdonotnecessarilybuyjustbecauseaproductusecofriendly, thealsolookfordesignandusageincludingbranding,certificationandlabelling. FloorDiscussion: Thepaneldiscussionwasfollowedbyfloordiscussionduringwhichtheparticipantsmadea fewinterestingcommentsandraisedpertinentquestions.Questionsregardingtheability of addressing all eco issues at individual producers level and price competitiveness were raised.Ontheissueoflabelling,aparticipantaskedthatecolabellingwhichisincreasingly beingconsiderednecessary,alsoheightenthecostbutconsumersarenotwillingtopaythe premiums.Howtodealwithit? ResponsefromthePanel In response to queries, panellist explained that pricing of craft products and competitiveness remains a thorny issue as the majority of production remains boutique level.Anotherpanellistcommentedthatwhileitmaystillrelativelyeasytoquantifytheeco friendliness,onsocialclauses,itbecomesdifficult.Evenatinternationallevel,ecolabelsand

social sensitive clauses are not necessarily linked. Responding to the question related to price premiums, a panellist interestingly observed that price is different from cost and people pay if they are convinced. The example of Louis Vutton bags and their costprice differentialwascitedtomakethepoint. SessionII The second session post tea was moderated by Ajay Rastogi, an independent consultant. This session sought to discuss and debate on the three key questions (1)How environmentally friendly is textile and craft production in India (2)what are the likely occupationalhazardstothecraftpersonsandworkers,(3)Howcanwebalancelivelihoods andenvironmentalimpact? Dunu Roy the leading environmental expert in his presentation on Environment, OccupationalHealthandSafetyissuesinthecraftssectorinIndiaobservedthatthegovt committees are dominated by companies and nether neither the government nor the companies take a serious view of the health hazards. After so many years of constant sensitizing,onlyacutetoxicityissomewhatlookedintotosomeextentandchronictoxicity remains completely out the government radar of concern. Health, ecofriendliness, hazardousetcaremoreofaconcerntoworkersandunfortunatelynotmuchofproducers. ThestudyconductedinselectedcentresinthecitiesofJaipurandAjmerwithasampleof 100workersstudiestheOccupationalHealth,safetyandenvironmentalissuesinthecraft sector. The findings of the study suggested that across sectors, the body mass index gets unbalanced after 10 to 20 years of working. The lung function test indicates that lunge capacityisdecreasingoveryearsandbronchitis,TBetcarerampant.Eyesightisvulnerable, especiallyin bellmetal sector.Thechronictoxicityassumesseriousdimension intheBell metalsectorbecausemetalcontaminationengendersseveretoxicity.Incourseofyearsof work,workersdeveloppermanentpainsinbackandknees.Tremors,callus,spots,breathing problems, etc are the most common diseases. The study interestingly pointed out that Habits can be separated and insulated from the working conditions. Workers resort to varioushabitsfromcigarettetoalcoloholtogutkhamostlytodestressthemselves. Atenvironmentallevel,thestudyrevealedthatdifferentsectorshavedifferentwastageand emission problems. He further mentioned that Bagru textile printing needs Effluent Treatment Plant which should be capable of collection, neutralisation, aeration, and filtrationandreverseOsmosis.ItisimportanttohaveappropriateTreatmentandrecovery system for satisfactory functioning of Plant. Fortnightly sampling and material balance, absorptionandefficacyofcarbonbed,waterrecoveryof64%lowandBiologicaltreatment aresomeofthekeythingsthatmustbeconsideredforthedesiredresult.Beawarleather processinghasproblemofeffluentsfromtanning.Others(pottery,bellmetal,dhokra)also havepossiblemetalcontamination.

The study recommended that to remedy the situation rregular work with regular wages shouldbeaccordedthetopmostpriority.Useofnontoxicmaterialsandprocessesshould be adopted and improved ventilation and lighting at the work place should be provided. Regularmedicalcheckupsshouldbeconductedattheworkplace,provisionofrestperiods andjobrotationshouldbeadheredtoasrequiredbythelabourlawsinthecountry.Better designsofequipmentandtoolscouldreducetheoccupationalhazardsanddrudgery. Thepresentationwasfollowedbyapaneldiscussion.Threepanellistspresentedtheirviews. Ravi Aggarwal, the first panellist from Toxic Links took up the environmental, health and safety issue of the sector in terms of its genesis in the nature of its sector itself which is Small scale industry but unorganised and huge. He said that contrary to the general perception,theindustryisnotnecessarilylabourintensive.Perunitelectricityconsumption, toxicity,wastesarehighduetolowinvestmentinprocessandtechnologies.Notsurprising, Occupational hazards are too high. The sector is vulnerable to market and in case of an industry crisis, it is this vulnerable group which takes the most severe hit. Perpetual sub contracting is prevalent. Margins are high, but there is tendency to sigh away from responsibilities.Chronictoxicityisthemainproblembutisoften overlooked. Tuberculosis and also silicosis is an occupational disease. Hence, monitoring working conditions is necessary. The panellist was of the view that it doesnt cost too much to provide proper workingconditions. MsRekhaBajpaifromDelhibluePotterysaidrelativelythereisnotmuchhazardouswaste in pottery. However, there are social problems. Pottery is considered to be a lowcaste profession. Often, the workplace and living space is combined. Since glazed materials silica,glassetcisused,itbecomesahealthproblem.Fineglassparticlecausevariouskinds ofserioushealthproblems.Environmentally,thehazardousmaterialalsocontaminatessoil. Bluepottery,ceramics,terracottaallisalmostsimilarasfarasenvironmentalimpact,health andsocialissueareconcerned. The third panellist, Purnima Gupta from Development Alternatives, Delhi said that both awarenessandwillingleveltoaddresstheissueofenvironment,healthandsafetyispoor. Referring to a comparative study on women employed in TARA and other tribal women, womenatTARAwerefoundmorerightconsciousandaware.Shefurtherobservedthatasa firm expands, the overlooking of concerns starts taking place. Enhancing sensitization, awarenessand,willingnesslevelholsthekey. FloorDiscussion Duringtheopenfloordiscussions,afewobservationsweremade.Itwaspointedoutthat oftenhumansewagedisposal,lighting,cookingfueletcallareattheworkplaceastheliving spaceiscombined.Spinningandweavingisbeingdonewherecottonisproduced.InSMEs, there is not much emphasis on health. A few questions were raised by the participants

regarding the sample size, accessibility to the workers for the survey, existence of worker unionsandtheirresponsetotowardstheseissues. ResponsefromthePanel Responding to the queries, panellist said that there are craftsmen guilds but not actually modern unions, because its all unorganized. Around 60% is contracted labour. Moreover, mostUnionsdonotlookintohealthissues.Samplesizewassmallduetotimerestrictions. Responding to the access issue AIACA said that it was possible by networking and proper persuasion.Asthepurposeofthesurveyitselfwastohelpthecraftcommunity,boththe producersandtheworkers,accesswasprovidedforthesurvey.Asafollowup,itisplanned to expand the study and work towards greater sensitization along with feeding the recommendations into policy making. It was the view of the panel that rather than have curative measures, precautionary measures should be taken. Production process itself shouldbehazardless. ConcludingRemarks AjaiRastogi,themoderatorwhilebriefingthediscussionssaidthatEcoconcernsandsocial concernsarenotseparable.TheworkercentricangleisnecessaryandSocialaccountability must be ensured. There is a need to focus on best practices, legal norms and community efforts.The conference ended with a vote of thanks to all the panellists, researchers and participants.