Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
p. 67 p. 96 p. 14
A U G U S T/ S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 1 p. 77 p. 87 p. 20 p. 75
p. 13
fashion
52 ONE PANT, FOUR LOOKS Wide-leg pants are hot for fall. 60 FALL 2011 DESIGNER UPDATE The best looks from 7th Avenue. 72 DYNAMIC DUO Marcy and Katherine Tilton. 74 TODAYS FIT BY SANDRA BETZINA Unexpected details in flattering silhouettes. 76 KEY PIECES Easy-to-make, easy-to-wear dresses, shirts and skirts. 82 WORKING WARDROBE Solid choices for your busy lifestyle...all in one pattern. 84 JACKETS REQUIRED The most sophisticated cool weather cover ups.
12 SEWING RETREATS Sandra Betzinas guide to what to bring...from supplies to attitude. 14 SEWING MACHINE SHOPPING GUIDE Top 20 topics to help you get what you want and what you need. 20 HAVE SCISSORS, WILL TRAVEL Meet Nayantara Banerjee, the tailor who makes house calls. 24 CONVERTING A ONE-PIECE SLEEVE INTO A TWO-PIECE Kathryn Brenne teaches the finer points of this transformation.
features
in every issue
30 KEEPING DIY STYLE ALL IN THE FAMILY Erica Bunkers point of view on stretching your wardrobe. 32 INSIDE EDITION Linda Griepentrog uncovers the secrets of fashions support system. 36 LET THE FABRIC SPEAK Your imagination can be your guide when you add unique touches to fabric. 40 NORTH STARS Inspired by the beauty of the Canadian Arctic, students rise to the fashion challenge at Torontos Creativ Festival. 44 SMALL, SMALL, SMALL Pati Palmer offers advice on making alterations for the smaller figure. 48 PROJECT ONE: BOILED WOOL POCKET An easy technique with lots of chic. 50 PROJECT TWO: LOOP THE LOOP BELT A quick and easy belt with room for expansion. 54 THE GREAT PRETENDERS: LEATHER-LOOK FABRICS Tips and techniques for sewing with this seasons hot fabric.
on the cover
5 6 8
10 Editors Choice 29 The Selfish Seamstress: Sewing Therapy 23 Web Watch 88 Guide to Patterns & Fabric Requirements 91 Body Measurements Charts 94 Crossword 96 Thread Tales 97 Fabric & Accessory Guide
Donna Karans knock-out knit turtleneck with lots of ruching, V1259, Misses 4-16. Hair and Makeup: Joseph Boggess. Photographed by Brian Kraus.
www.voguepatterns.com
www.voguepatterns.com
sewing REVOLUTION
DRESSES
ROBES
fall 2011
SOIREE,BAL,MARIAGES
THE BEST OF
DESIGNERS
Join CLUB BMV for GREAT DEALS!
MAGGY LONDON: Fashion Fresh Attitude SUZI CHIN for MAGGY BOUTIQUE: Polish and Glamour MUSE: Modern Style CONNIE CRAWFORD: Modern Fit for Woman & Misses' JENNIFER LOKEY: A Creative Way with Aprons NANCY FARRIS THEE: Historical Costumes WAVERLY: Classic American Traditions
MUSE B5677 p.00
p.00
BUTTERICK
TOPS
HAUTS
SKIRTS, PANTS
JUPES,PANTALONS
JENNIFER LOKEY B5689 p.00
SPORTSWEAR, SUITS
TENUES DE SPORT, TAILLEURS
LARGE SIZES
GRANDE TAILLES
COSTUMES
DGUISEMENTS
ACCESSORIES CRAFTS
ACCESSOIRES TABLIERS
MAISON DECOR
M6400 P. 312
M6402 P. 406
M6404 P. 409
M6404 P. 409
www.mccallpattern.com
I made this dress for my daughter Victorias prom two years ago. It was a Tom and Linda Platt Pattern V2964. It was a pleasure to sew and the multisizing of the pattern made the tting very easy. She received many compliments and no one had the same dress. Susan Blackburn
You asked, we listened. PayPal is now available on all of our websites: www.voguepatterns.com, www.mccallpattern.com and www.butterick.com. PayPal protects your nancial information and purchases from checkout to delivery.
8 www.voguepatterns.com VOGUE PATTERNS August/September 2011
START SHOPPING!
project one
simple
3"
fold line
2"
48
www.voguepatterns.com
www.voguepatterns.com
49
www.voguepatterns.com
53
technical tips
leather-look fabrics
by Kathryn Brenne
V1198
V1264
Styling
Real leather garments are designed to accommodate the size and shape of animal skins. To duplicate this look, choose a pattern with lots of smaller pieces seamed together, such as Todays Fit V1198 or Very Easy Vogue V8714. Looking for something unconventional? We matched an ultra-drapey faux leather with Very Easy Vogue V8756, a jacket with cascading collar. If youre not ready to try an entire garment of pleather, consider using it as an accent on yokes, collars, pockets or cuffs, as in Anne Klein V1264, or on an accessory, such as handbags V8760. Faux leather is also great for belts and hats.
Layout
Faux leather is produced with a backing fabric, which is quite often a knit. Although a knit has give in both directions, the lengthwise grain is usually stable while the crosswise has quite a bit of stretch. The pattern can be laid out following the lengthwise grain of the fabric.
WARNINGS
V8756 V8760
Synthetic leather has been around for a long time, but it has not always had a good reputation; in fact, it has been jokingly nicknamed pleather (plastic-leather). The good news is that recent technology has improved faux leathers to the point where they are hard to tell apart from the real thing. The variety of weights, textures and colors are nearly limitless and are available in a wide price range, making them a great alternative to leather. Fashion forecasters predict that leather is going to be hot for fall 2011, so take our stitching advice and be prepared to add some to your wardrobe. If youve never sewn with themor havent tried them in a long timenows the time to give them a try.
It is best to test out the fit of the garment by sewing a test garment. Stitching in faux leather will leave permanent holes. Pins will leave permanent holes in the fabric. Instead use weights to hold the pattern in place and a rotary cutter to cut the fabric. Do not use a tracing wheel and paper as it may leave a permanent mark on the fabric. Pattern markings such as dots, darts and pocket placements can be transferred to the wrong side of the fabric using a soft lead pencil. Faux leather can be warm to wear as it does not breathe well. Add a couple of eyelets to the underarms of garments, allowing them to breathe.
A Microtex 130/705 H-M or a Jeans 130/705 H-J needle in size 70 will work well to penetrate the coating of the fabric. Both types of needles have a very sharp tip and thin shaft. For the samples shown on the next page a Jeans needle was used. For the buttonhole, a Microtex needle worked better to prevent skipped stitches. If skipped stitches are a problem, try a larger-sized needle. A regular presser foot will work well to sew the seams initially as the foot rides over the knit backing. However, you will need a Teon presser foot for any topstitching. Without a Teon foot, the presser foot will stick to the fabric resulting in small stitches and uneven feeding of the layers. On my sewing machine, I used the built-in walking foot along with Teon foot. Lengthen the stitch slightly so that there are not as many holes close together, which can lead to tearing. For seams use a stitch length of 2.7mm; for edgestitching and topstitching use a stitch length of 3 mm. All-purpose 100% polyester thread is (continued on page 56 suitable for sewing faux leather.
54
www.voguepatterns.com
www.voguepatterns.com
55
subscribe now!