OFF-ROAD in THE EMiRATES ii

DARIUSH ZANDI

Published with the support of Land Rover

Published by Motivate Publishing Dubai: PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Tel: (+971 4) 282 4060, fax: (+971 4) 282 7898 e-mail: books@motivate.ae www.booksarabia.com Office 508, Building No 8, Dubai Media City, Dubai, UAE Tel: (+971 4) 390 3550, fax: (+971 4) 390 4845 Abu Dhabi: PO Box 43072, Abu Dhabi, UAE Tel: (+971 2) 677 2005, fax: (+971 2) 677 0124 London: Acre House, 11/15 William Road, London NW1 3ER e-mail: motivateuk@motivate.ae Directors: Consultant Editor: Editors: Senior Designer: Designer: Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Ian Fairservice David Steele Moushumi Nandy Albert Harvey Pincis Simona Cassano Cithadel Francisco Charlie Banalo

General Manager Books: Jonathan Griffiths Publishing Coordinator: Zelda Pinto First published 1993 Reprinted 1994, 1996, 1998 New Edition 2009

Motivate Publishing 1993 Photographs Dariush Zandi

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any material form (including photocopying or storing in any medium by electronic means) without the written permission of the copyright holders. Application for the copyright holders written permission to reproduce any part of this publication should be addressed to the publishers. In accordance with the International Copyright Act 1956 and the UAE Federal Law No. (7) of 2002, Concerning Copyrights and Neighboring Rights, any person acting in contravention of this will be liable to criminal prosecution and civil claims for damages.

ISBN: 978 1 86063 126 9 British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data. A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Printed and bound in the UAE by Emirates Printing Press

CoNTeNTS
Key to Maps Full Map Foreword Preparing Your Trip A Short History of the UAE THe RoUTeS Route 1 Route 2 Route 3 Route 4 Route 5 Route 6 Route 7 Route 8 Route 9 Route 10 Route 11 Route 12 Route 13 Route 14 Liwa Madbah A Subaitah Kitnah MadamHatta ShawkahSiji Daftah Farfar MasafiBitnahHayl MaidaqAl Haniyah MadhahShis Wadi Asimah Al HaniyahDibba Tawyain 24 36 45 52 62 72 86 91 99 107 114 124 132 139 4 5 6 8 20

SpeCIAl-INTeReST BoXeS Route 1 Route 2 Route 3 Route 4 Route 5 Route 6 Route 7 Route 8 Route 9 Route 10 Route 11 Route 12 Route 13 Route 14 Sand Dunes Al Ain & Buraimi Hiking & Climbing in the UAE Jebel Hafit Mountain Biking in the UAE Dams in the UAE Fauna Bedouin Life The Date Palm Natural Vegetation Water and Irrigation Systems Insects & Other Arthropods Traditional Clothing The Hot Springs of Khatt 31 41 49 57 69 79 88 96 105 111 120 131 136 145 149 150

Acknowledgements About the Author

keY To mApS
Gravel road or track Tarred road Dual carriageway Roundabout

Roads or tracks in red denote the route described in the particular chapter.
Airport Archaeological site Camel farm Campsite Dam Distance marker Distance to next town Emirates highway number Fence Fishing Fossils Graveyard GPS coordinates Historical site Hospital or clinic Hotel Khawr or pool Mosque Mountain peak Oasis or farm Petrol station Photo opportunity Picnic spot Police station Sand dune School Seaport Settlement Shops Swimming Telecom tower

t/o

Turn-off Town Village Waterfall Water tank

The maps in this book are intended only as a guide to the routes described and do not purport to show international boundaries.

fUll mAp

MUSANDAM

ARABIAN GULF
RAS AL-KHAIMAH UMM AL-QAIWAIN AJMAN SHARJAH DUBAI
6

GULF OF OMAN
14 12 10 9 8 7 11 13

KHOR FAKKAN FUJAIRAH

JEBEL ALI

KALBA MADAM 5 HATTA

ABU DHABI
2-4 3 2

AL AIN

TARIF

The Routes 01: The Liwa 02: Madbah 03: ASubaitah 04: Kitnah 05: Madam-Hatta 06: Shawkah-Siji 07: Daftah 08: Farfar 09: MasaBitnah-Hayl 10: Maidaq-Al Haniyah 11: Madhah-Shis 12: Wadi Asimah 13: Al HaniyahDibba 14: Tawyain

LIWA

foRewoRD
The colour of a mans personality resonates sharply when you travel with him. Travelling through Dubai was a novel experience which helped me to reinstate my acuity in a man whose work draws my attention to the Emirate of Dubai; a place where customs and traditions of the past could easily be lost as a result of the new affluence and effects of the growing display of economical growth. I had the pleasure to travel alongside him, and I could not help but sincerely feel a strong glowing sense of personal ideology in the way Dariush focuses on working towards renaissance of a rich cultural inheritance which is proud to present its history to the world. Whereas Dubai in the modern day is almost seen as a colossal construction site rising out of nothing but the desert sands, the work of Dariush has been pivotal in creating a context and feel for this cultural legacy, therefore playing a central role in guarding the nations heritage and helping to stimulate cultural awareness. I have known Dariush throughout the progress in his career and now I am ecstatic to see his efforts pouring into such a unique project and praise his work specializing

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in artists and art influenced by the culture of the Middle East. I also admire his efforts to follow his passion which led to the establishment of one of the first galleries in the emirate, magnifying the importance of its historical heritage alongside todays fast paced modernization of the city, hiding the real history behind skyscrapers. It was my pleasure to visit the sites of Dubai, in his portrayal of the old city, which he has worked hard to recreate. I strongly believe his work is not truly appreciated under present circumstances, amidst the current attention of the new

modernized face of the emirate. However in time I can see the potential growth of attention towards the old Dubai; behind the faces of construction sites, and its enriched source of culture and historical customs. After sharing the journey I believe in the significance of the saying "If you want to get to know the true character of a person, share a journey with them". I can now see the true reflection of Dariush's efforts and can share his passion and aspiration in rebuilding a forgotten culture. Reza Deghati, Dubai 2009

pRepARINg YoUR TRIp

In the UAE, the cooler months of midOctober to mid-May are the best for off-road exploring and camping, making seven months of comfortable adventure possible. While not impossible at other times of the year, the experience may not be as pleasant, although the writer has gone camping in July and August (the UAEs hottest months) and enjoyed these trips thoroughly. Proper preparation can minimize the difficulties of summer camping and your vehicle should obviously be air-conditioned and well maintained to prevent overheating or any other problems along the way. Confining your activities to the mountaintops, where theres a continuous breeze, or a shady oasis with running water and perhaps a pool in which to swim, reduces the impact of the heat. Unless you want to swim in the sea, areas away from the coast are more comfortable because of lower humidity. Naturally, selecting suitable tracks and campsites also helps. Your vehicle An important prerequisite for off-road driving is an appropriate vehicle, which should be kept in good condition. Problems can start if you keep a specific vehicle for this activity only, especially if its left neglected for months. It is therefore imperative that all vehicles get a thorough check-up before you head off. Planning a camPing triP Successful camping trips begin long before you lock your front door and drive away. The first few trips require more planning than subsequent ones, since it takes a little time to collect all the gear and establish a routine. For this reason, many people first take a few short practice trips to establish campsites close to home. Doing this with experienced campers is especially helpful. Its also recommended that you take copies of passports of all passengers and other identification such as labour cards, driving licences, health cards etc in case of an emergency. children Off-road trips with children can be wonderful or dreadful and the difference is in the preparation. Babies can be the easiest to accommodate. A folding bed with mosquito netting makes a safe place for sleeping and playing, while a solid-framed papoose lets you take the baby everywhere with you. Pack plenty of drinking water for the baby, protect him or her from insects and the sun, and let the fresh air and family atmosphere take care of the rest. Safety is the prime consideration for toddlers and young children. A playpen that doubles as a sleeping area is good. As youngsters tend to wander, a little bell pinned to the back of their clothing is an effective way of keeping track. Extra care is needed when the campsite is near a road. A campfire should never be left unattended if youngsters are about. Dont forget to pack adequate change of clothes. Children aged five to eleven years old make keen campers they love new experiences and are enthusiastic, so let them participate and learn while theyre helping. Board games, cards and books make good diversions. Precautions must

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On some trips you may have to reconstruct or repair part of the track which may have been washed away due to floods, in order to continue your journey.

be taken against children getting lost. Its a good idea to give each one a whistle to wear around their neck, with instructions to use them only in emergencies. Older children and teenagers who have grown up on a diet of outdoor activities are more likely to accept a responsible role and take an active part in planning and preparation. Some become enthusiastic navigators and drivers. Teenagers new to off-roading may enjoy the challenge of navigating and exploring or building and maintaining a campfire. Having children of a similar age to yours in the group is a good way to make sure theyre kept fully occupied and enjoy their trip. Planning a destination When deciding where to go, consider the distance and calculate how much time is required. Allow for plenty of time on the road so the driving can be part of the fun. Restrict the options to areas that offer activities you enjoy such as mountain hiking or biking, exploring historical forts and watchtowers, photography, sightseeing, swimming in wadi pools or spending the day at the beach. Researching a destination is where the fun begins. getting readY to go Develop a note-taking system to jot down all thoughts that come to you, starting with: Gear to take. Food to take (bearing in mind some items may be bought on the way or near the campsite). Questions to ask about your proposed destination. Details for locking up the house. Clothing to pack. Vehicle check-up.

What to take Be selective. When packing clothes, remember that temperatures can drop dramatically at night, and dew can dampen kit as thoroughly as if it had rained. Good, stout footwear is essential if you intend to do a lot of walking and dont ever forget a hat. Youll want direction-finding equipment such as compass, maps, binoculars, direction notes etc, especially if setting out over unfamiliar terrain. Nowadays a GPS (Global Positioning System) receiver is the best guarantee of finding your way. Other staples of camping equipment include matches and flashlights of various sizes a spotlight that works off a car battery is also good, while a miners flashlight worn on the forehead will leave your hands free to carry out other activities. You can resort to candles if all else fails, so take a few along. Sleeping accessories are matters of taste. For many people a sleeping bag is enough although a foam or blow-up mattress, even though bulky, is a valuable item, especially for sleeping in rocky wadis. Extra blankets during winter months are a wise precaution. A tent is useful. Its always better to get a slightly larger tent than you think youll need and a tent that provides both ventilation (so condensation doesnt collect on the inside) and waterproofing is preferable. In this region, self-supporting tents such as dome tents whose poles are pushed through sleeves on the outside of the tent to support it are especially useful, as solid ground for tent pegs and guy ropes is not always available. Metal pegs that are useful for mountainous terrain are too small and useless for sandy ground and dune camping, so large plastic pegs are the best for this purpose. Put a lightweight

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groundsheet under your tent to protect it from sharp twigs and stones. Its always easier to clean a tarpaulin than a tent, and a piece of polythene sheet works fine. You might consider a camp-stove as more convenient than an open fire for cooking and warmth. With such items, the lighter the better. The writer usually carries different sizes of stoves: small ones with rechargeable capsules for quick heating on a short camping trip and a Coleman twoburner fuel stove for an extended trip. Your insulated icebox should have sturdy handles and hinges and a firm latch. Models with a bottom drain are handy. Two different-sized iceboxes, rather than one very large one, have the advantages of being easier to pack and carry, and can provide greater flexibility of storage and temperature control. A compact portable fridge, which works off a car battery, is very useful although somewhat expensive.

CHeCklIST
Vehicle and general equipment One or more spare tyres. Tyre-pressure gauge and repair kit. Electrical-control winch. First-aid kit. Fire extinguisher. Shovels. Towing rope, chain and shackles, industrial-type gloves. High-lift or other type jack (which can also be used as a winch), wheel brace, base plate. Five-foot aluminium ladder (for use as a sand ladder). Air compressor. Hammer, crowbar, axe. Powerful hand lamp operated from the vehicle cigarette lighter socket. Air bag. Length of rope for general use. Basic tool kit, screwdrivers, insulated pliers, insulation tape, masking tape, spanners, spare sparkplugs and plug spanner, Stanley knife or similar, insulated wire for electrical connections, roll of strong cord, jump leads, can of WD40 etc. Sheet of thick plastic, sacking or tarpaulin about 2x2 metres. This can be used under the wheel for traction, or to lie on if working under the vehicle, or for shade. Thick wooden plate to support the jack in the soft sand terrain. Length of plastic or rubber hose useful for siphoning petrol from one tank to another. Large torch and batteries. Strap/stretch cords and plastic ties. Extra fluids and oil for various vehicle parts. Extra fuel, bulbs and wires of different types and jump leads. Fan belt and radiator hose. Swimsuit, towel and sunglasses. Sun-protection lotion with high SPF. Camera, tripod and film. Waterproof bag.

Personal items Toothbrush, toothpaste, toiletries. Candles. Small torch, batteries. Matches or lighter. Insect repellent. Binoculars. Whistle. Extra clothing and hiking shoes. Food (depending on trip duration). Maps, compass, GPS receiver. Mobile phone and/or satellite phone. Swiss Army knife or Leatherman. Pen and pencil, notebook.

Campsite items Tent. Sleeping-bags or blankets. Roll-up mattresses. Groundsheet or mats. Pillows or cushions. Folding table and chairs/stools. Gas or battery lamps. Cool-box. Compact camp-stove. Two-burner stove fuel. Barbecue grid. Garbage bags. Charcoal, fire-lighters. Cutlery, tongs, tin opener, corkscrew, knife. Plates, spoons, mugs. Frying pan, pots, pans, kettle. Washing-up cloth and liquid soap. Kitchen-paper rolls, tea towels. Wet wipes. Cutting board. Spare water supply for cooking and washing. Solar-heated bag shower. Aluminium foil.

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Besides being fun, campfire can be used for cooking and warming up during colder winter nights. Using dry ice ensures your food will be kept dry. The writer usually freezes plastic water bottles prior to departing on a trip and uses them to keep the icebox cool and provide cool water throughout a journey. Storing various types of food in plastic containers before putting them in the icebox helps to keep them intact during rough journeys while specially made items, such as plastic egg containers, help to protect foodstuffs. Folding tables and chairs are helpful but not essential. When selecting a table, make sure its sturdy and theres no danger of its collapsing or tipping. The same goes for camp chairs. All-purpose tools to take along include a pocket knife (or better still, a Swiss Army knife or a Leatherman) and a hatchet and shovel are a must. In the dunes, shovels of various sizes are the tools you may need to dig your vehicle out of the sand if it gets stuck. A loud whistle is also handy as a precaution against getting lost or separated from your party. Your personal items might include a first-aid kit, suntan lotion, sewing kit, safety pins, string and nylon cord. There are numerous gadgets you can take along but experience will teach you whats really essential. See the checklist on page 11 to help you on your way. Packing Use a checklist to guide you through the packing process and remind you what must be taken. Pack clothes in plastic

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Be aware of flash floods that may occur even among sand dunes. bags, which can be squeezed in between other items, and keep a few extra plastic bags with you. Stuff sleeping bags inside their own packing bags. Most of the gear should be packed in its original box if possible. Gather everything youre taking: clothing, sleeping items, kitchen equipment, camping gear, handy travel items and so on to get a visual image of it. Organize all food, except items for the icebox, with the rest of the gear. Take a good look at everything, think it through and check what you see against your list. Set aside the items that need to be accessible. Load the items, not according to categories, but according to size and weight, always bearing in mind the principle: Last in, first out. Always remember to pack your vehicle tools where they can be most easily reached. Just before you leave, fill the icebox and load it into your 4x4. To speed up packing and ensure a hassle-free trip, make sure you have one or two lockable plastic boxes to permanently store vehicle-maintenance tools, as well as camping, cooking and sleeping gear. You can pre-pack almost all your gear except perishable food. at the camPsite Plan to arrive during daylight hours, allowing time to put up your tent, unpack and organize things. Setting up the tent is something the whole family can do together. The children will soon learn how

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to do the job, which can also be a lot of fun. Before setting up the tent check the slope of the ground and establish your camp away from any water run-off. Find a spot where the tent can be in the shade during the heat of the day and try to position it a safe distance from the fireplace. Clear away rocks or any other obstructions especially thorns from your chosen site and put a small rug or straw mat in front of the tent to keep the interior and the bedding clean. Organize your kitchen, cooking gear and food for maximum convenience. Place the icebox in the shade and keep the fuel canisters away from the fire. Set up your garbage bag. If youre using a plastic bag, it can be tied around a nearby tree with a piece of rope, leaving an opening in the bag for filling it. Your lantern can be hung from a rope or moved around as needed. the camPfire If theres one traditional symbol of camping, its the campfire. Nevertheless, dont make a huge fire unless its made from wood that youve brought with you. Wood in the UAE is scarce and its environmentally incorrect to gather wood thats so valuable to the creatures of the desert. Dont waste wood just to impress your friends rather take wood or charcoal with you.Waste wood from construction and industrial sites are ideal for use. Always remember to keep an eye on the children around the fire and never put empty fuel canisters in the fire or use petrol to light a fire. Charcoal for cooking can be selected as required and placed in a separate heap in a shallow ditch surrounded by evenly arranged flat rocks large enough for your steel (stainless steel is preferred) grid. Premarinated meat is recommended. If you find a neatly cut and piled stack of

wood dont touch it. It has most likely been cut and prepared by nearby villagers for cooking and, not surprisingly, they can get quite offended if you use their wood. Fire making is a skill. Stack kindling, (paper, leaves, twigs, small branches and well-split logs) over the tinder so that its arranged in a circle and leans together at the top to form a small pyramid. Light the fire at the bottom of the tinder. Always light it upwind, that is, with the wind blowing the match flame into the tinder. As the pyramid burns, it will light the surrounding charcoal. Remember, no matches or lighter no campfire. camPsite etiquette Campers often share the same territory, so group cooperation is essential. Dont pollute a stream or falaj (water channel) and dont clean fish or wash clothes in the water. Dig a pit when you need to go to the toilet and burn the paper once youve finished. Be quiet at night and in the early hours of the morning and rather enjoy the sounds of nature than a blaring radio or CD player. Dont gather firewood from the desert and never chop or pull down a branch of a live tree or mutilate shrubs or trees. Gather all your garbage in a bag and take it home with you. Before leaving the campsite, ensure that its clean, even if this means taking other peoples rubbish with you. Remember the golden rule: take only photographs, leave only footprints! food for a camPing triP The type of food you choose for a trip depends on individual taste but here follow a few general hints. Canned food is convenient to pack and can be prepared and heated without a fuss. Alternatives include homemade sandwiches, salad, fruit and tinned drinks. Some people prefer to take cold meat and

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Finding a flat spot between sand dunes guarantees ample space for tents and gathering around camp fire. salads and like to prepare their sandwiches on the spot. Others look forward to a barbecue with meat, chicken or fish, even though this usually takes more time to prepare and clean up afterwards. If you know youll be on the move constantly, sandwiches and finger-food might be your best bet. Food should be packed in well-sealed, proper containers for protection, to keep it as fresh as possible and to prevent spillage. Meal-sized containers are useful to ensure you dont over-pack for a short trip. Plan your meals well in advance so youll have everything you need. Think about what you need and what your family and friends like and consider its preparation. Camping makes everyone hungry. Some wholesome camping snacks include small boxes of juice, carrot and celery sticks, raisins, nuts, corn chips, crackers, cheese and quartered peanut-butter sandwiches. Your icebox will stay cooler longer if you start out with contents that are as cold as possible. Items that can be frozen ahead of time and then stored in the icebox include meat, cheese, fruit juice in cardboard containers and water. The icebox will probably need fresh ice daily. For maximum efficiency, open the icebox as little as possible, and keep it covered and in the shade. One way to simplify food preparation during camping is to prepare some food in advance. Bread and desserts are two suitable items, ready to enjoy at any time, while dried food will give you a head start on your camping trips. If you are into outdoor cooking, you could use one of these three methods: Foil cooking: Choosing the right kind of coals is important here. A blazing fire will

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not do, so start your fire well ahead of the cooking time to allow it to die down to glowing embers. Charcoal can be used as a base; hot coals alone are too hot. Mix them with ashes to temper the heat. Spread out two or three thicknesses of foil and coat the top surface with margarine, butter or oil to prevent the food from sticking to it. Place your food on the greased foil and wrap it carefully. Seal (crimp) the edges securely. Make a second wrap that covers the seal with a smooth covering. Shovel the coals aside, then lay the foil-wrapped food on the hot ashes and coals. After the food has cooked for the recommended time, remove with a pair of barbecue tongs. Be careful of escaping steam as you open the package. There are several local dishes that can be prepared in this way, such as ghoozl

with lamb meat. Corn-on-the-cob, potatoes and mixed vegetables are also excellent when cooked in this manner make sure you include butter and seasonings inside the foil. Open-fire cooking: Stay warm and cook your food on a stick or skewer at the same time. This gives the true feeling of camping. Use a light, straight green stick, a cooking fork or kebab skewer. Peel the sticks at the cooking end. You can use them to cook a hot dog over the fire, or a piece of bread for breakfast or as barbecue toast. Barbecue: This is perfect for camping so dont forget to take a grill with you. Once youve finished with the grill, pack it in a paper bag or wrap it in newspaper and put this parcel into a plastic garbage bag to prevent it from soiling other gear.

Camping equipments and supplies are shared among campers.

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Prior to crossing a flooded wadi with a vehicle, make a physical check for navigable depth and undulation. finding Your WaY Familiarize yourself with the territory before you set out to explore the wilderness. Study the maps in this book or any other maps you have. Find out where the main roads, side roads and tracks are. Check the wadis: which way do they flow and to what main wadi do they lead; where are the main ridges and which way do they lie? In the field (especially in dune areas), high ground may give a good view of the area and will help to identify any landmarks in the territory around you. See that the road youre following tallies with the route on your map. Tracks often follow wadi courses, which makes them easier to keep in sight. Use your compass, and GPS if you have one to record the distance between main changes in direction. Where the road passes any distinct feature such as a hill, dune, stream confluence or tree, stop to confirm the location and correct your plotting if necessary. When you come to a point where you propose to leave the vehicle and continue on foot, determine on the map the maximum parameters of the ground you may cover. orientation With a maP A map is simply a scaled diagram of what exists on the ground. Water courses, roads, wadis, mountains, desert, power lines and other structures are represented by lines and symbols which will be defined, along with the scale, on the map. Vertical relief (i.e. the contours of wadis and ridges) is defined by contour lines. All thats required to develop adequate skill in interpreting these symbols, particularly the contour lines, is practice in the field. The writer finds it useful to orientate the map so that details on it coincide with the landscape. Then stand on whichever side of the map lets you look out over it to line up the features of the landscape you wish to identity. Also, keep scale in mind. If a feature is clearly many miles away, its going to be some distance away on the map too. Make

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Most GPS receivers can display positions in various formats. the best estimate you can and then search in the right direction at that distance on the map, according to the scale. using a comPass A compass will show you magnetic north as long as you use it away from other magnetic influences. To determine with a high degree of accuracy any direction, you need to adjust your reading for true north. The magnetic declination in the UAE was 137 E on 12th April 2008 (NB: The declination is changing by 03 E per year). Position yourself on the opposite side of the compass to the line of travel. Once youve determined on the map the direction that will take you from your present location to your destination, youll know which way to drive so as to travel on that bearing. A good way of holding your course is to line up a distant feature of the landscape and head toward it. You can stop occasionally to check your heading. What is gPs? The Global Positioning System (GPS) is a satellite-based navigation system made up of a network of 24 satellites placed into orbit. GPS works in any weather conditions, anywhere in the world, 24 hours a day, provided you are not standing under a roofed enclosure. It is designed to be interfaced with other software as well, in sync with computers. There are no subscription fees or set-up charges to use GPS. hoW gPs Works GPS satellites circle the earth twice a day in a precise orbit and transmit that information back to earth. GPS services take this information and use triangulation to calculate the users exact location. Essentially, the GPS receiver compares the time a signal was transmitted by satellite with the time it was received. The time difference tells the GPS receiver how far away the satellite is. Now, with distance

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measurements from a few more satellites, the receiver can determine the users position and display it on the units electronic map. A GPS receiver must be locked on to the signal of at least three satellites to calculate a 2D position (latitude and longitude) and track movement. With four or more satellites in view, the receiver can determine the users 3D position (latitude, longitude and altitude). Once the users position has been determined, the GPS receiver can calculate other information such as speed, trip distance, distance to destination, sunrise and sunset time etc. Todays GPS receivers are accurate. Although atmospheric conditions and other factors can affect them, most receivers are accurate to within 1015 metres. Both handheld models and models designed to be fitted in vehicles are available in the market. GPS satellites transmit two low-power radio signals, which travel by line of sight, which means theyll pass through cloud, glass and plastic but will not go through most solid objects in the vicinity, such as buildings and mountains. Most GPS receivers can display positions in various position formats. The format used in this book is to present latitude and longitude in degrees, minutes and hundredths of a minute (h ddd mm.mm), the default format in Garmin GPS receivers. Make sure these coordinates match those on your own GPS receiver and maps.

Kids can enjoy camping and grow up to become serious explorers.

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A SHoRT HISToRY of THe UAe

The earliest evidence of human habitation in the UAE is a village on Marawah Island that dates from c.5500 BC in the Late Stone Age. Dozens of sites have yielded stone tools from the same period including the important graveyard site at Jebel alBuhais in Sharjah. The presence of plant and animal remains at the site has done much to analyze the living conditions of the community; many of the finds are now displayed at Sharjah Archaeological Museum. Ubaid pottery finds dating to 5000 BC and later Jamdat Nasr type pottery prove the existence of ancient trade networks with Mesopotamia. About 3000 BC there was a significant climate change to the regions present aridity that led to a new culture around 2500 BC, known as the Umm al-Nar period. One of the characteristics of this era was the establishment of fortified oasis towns such as Hili, Tell Abraq, Bidiya and Kalba. The move from nomadism to settled agriculture was possible because of the cultivation of the date palm (Phoenix dactylifera). The

archaeologists working on pre-islamic tombs of eddur (Omana) near the sea in Umm al-Qaiwain. date palm provided fruit as well as raw material for building, furnishing and fuel; the palm also provided shade for less hardy crops. The burial practices of this period are characterized by round, communal tombs with the grave goods showing wide ranging trade links with Mesopotamia, the Indus Valley, Persia and Bactria. By 2300 BC bronze was increasingly used and copper ore from the Hajar Mountains was intensively exploited. It is possible that Magan is centred on this region given the textual evidence written in Sumerian cuneiform about the same time, referring to Magan as the source of copper and diorite for Mesopotamia. Visiting archaeological sites is possible from enquiries at various museums or government departments. Besides official archaeological sites, there are petroglyphs recording people from past ages as well as carved headstones scattered throughout the eastern mountains. In the same villages

Ruins of circular tombs of hili archaeological site, outside hili Gardens, al ain.

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that shows that there was a technological change in warfare; the appearance of longer swords, bows and arrows and cast, bronze, lance-shaped arrowheads. key sites: Qattara, Al Ain (collective tomb) Tell Abraq, Kalba (continuation of early settlement). The Iron Age (1300300 BC) is divided into three phases, the second of which is most represented in finds. Despite its name and the discovery of iron in Sharjah, bronze continued to be used extensively. This period is significant for three reasons; the domestication of the camel, the use of the falaj system of irrigation that allowed population densities to be more evenly distributed and sustained, it may well have also attracted non-indigenous people to the region. In consequence, wheat and barley cultivation was revolutionized.

Fragmented pottery vase found in pre-islamic Jumeirah archaeological site in dubai. you can find relics of the past, which form an image of everyday life of the former inhabitants. Large earthenware jars, for example, being used for cooling water. key sites: Jebel al-Buhais (mass cemetery); Marawah (largest collection of lithics and oldest confirmed site in UAE); Dalma (fishing settlement with earliest houses yet found in the UAE and imported Ubaid pottery); Umm al-Qaiwain (butchery site for dugongs); Hili gardens, Al Ain (early settlement and restored circular tomb); Umm al-Nar (settlement graves); Tell Abraq (fortified tower, 40 m in diameter). The Wadi Suq and Late Bronze Age (20001300 BC) periods that evolved out of the Umm al-Nar culture were at one time considered a dark age. However, recent finds of electrum plaques and outstanding gold and silver jewellery, belie this. The tomb architecture changes at this point to more rectangular, barrow-like structures, though still communal. The weaponry

Beautifully preserved enameled ceramic vase found in pre-islamic Jumeirah archaeological site.

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suggest they were probably minted there and display a Hellenistic influence. The next period, designated ed-Dur, from a town of that name in Umm al-Qaiwain has been linked with Omana. There is much more documentation for this period and in addition to the Periplus, we have Omana and the region mentioned by Pliny the Younger in his Natural History and also its placement on a second century Ptolomaic map. Ruins of the fort in the pre-islamic era (ad 250 630), during the Sasanid Period (iran), Jumeirah archaeological site. Although fishing and hunting continued to play its part, cattle sheep and goats assumed a greater importance. We also have the first appearance of writing in the Emirates along with evidence of stamp-seal manufacture, suggesting settled and more centralized power. key sites: Al Ain (Wadi Falaj), Sharjah (fortified settlement in desert, with first evidence of iron and use of writing). The Hellenistic Period (300 BCAD 250), is something of a misnomer, encompassing the Mleiha Period (300 BC0) and the ed-Dur Period (0AD 250). Alexander the Greats interests lay with the Persian Empire and India; he may though have sent a vessel south from Failakka Island into the Gulf for exploratory purposes. Trade links however, were clearly established with the Mediterranean, also with Southern Arabia. The Bay of Omana and surrounding countryside is mentioned in the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, written in the first century AD. The Mleiha Period takes its name from a large town of that name, 50 km from the Sharjah coast. Fragments of coin moulds, found in the fort, bearing the name Abiel key sites: Ras al-Khaimah. Burials found in Shimal, Asimah and in Waab/Wadi Munai. The pre-Islamic Era (AD 250630), is characterized by a rise in Sasanian influence over large parts of Eastern Arabia including the present UAE. There was also an increased Indian Ocean and Near East trade that was reflected in the many religious influences in the area; Arabian paganism, Nestorian Christianity and Sasanian Zoroastrianism. Finds in the area point to the widening, particularly trade key sites: Sir Bani Yas Island, (Nestorian monastery). The year AD 630 heralded the arrival of Islam to the area, however the death of Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) in AD 632 triggered a revolt that was crushed a year later by the Caliph Abu Bakr as-Siddiq at the battle of Dibba in Fujairah, where he effected 10,000 casualties against the apostates. By AD 637 Julfar in Ras alKhaimah was being used as a springboard for operations against Persia and was, in turn, a focus of the Umayyid and Abbasid campaigns against Oman. In the tenth century the Buyids from Persia gained control of the area as can be deduced from numismatic finds. Julfar continued to prosper as referenced by al-Maqdisi,

22

OFF-ROad in the eMiRateS ii

A SHoRT HISToRY of THe UAe

al-Idrisi and Yaqut in the tenth, twelfth and thirteenth centuries respectively; it was a pearling centre of importance and a hub for international trade with India and the Far East in porcelain, silk and spices, part of the Silk Road of the sea. One can compare with interest, examples of Chinese and Islamic ceramics noting the influences of the two-way traffic in ideas and artistic expression; the appearance of blue and white ceramics in Persia and Chinese porcelain displaying motifs that originate in Islamic metalwork. Before the appearance of the Portuguese as a significant power in the region, Ibn Majid, born in the 1430s, was a legendary navigator who left a large body of work; it includes knowledge of sea routes, navigation and astronomy. By the first half of the sixteenth century the Portuguese established a series of toe-holds on the southern Arabian peninsular and the Gulf. This disrupted trade from Julfar and coincided with the decline in the copper industry, though Julfar continued to sustain a great pearling fleet as described by the Portuguese and also, in the 1580s by a Venetian jeweller, Gasparo Balbi who noted in his journals the fishing settlement of Dibei or Dubai. Mid-century saw much conflict between the Portuguese and the Ottomans under the command of Piri Ries who successfully harried them, though he failed to dislodge them, due to insufficient forces and supplies, from Hormuz. Many of the forts thought of as being Portuguese actually belonged to local sheikhs, some of whom, at one time or other, allied themselves with the Portuguese whose regional hegemony lasted until the early seventeenth century. Portugal was not alone in its desire to be the regional power and in the seventeenth century was joined by the rising seaborne empires of the Dutch and British who both wished to expand and consolidate their respective East India Companies to control the trade in spices, tea and coffee. While the Portuguese controlled much of the coasts, many local tribes had made the oases of Liwa and Al Ain the centre of their life and economic activity. By the late eighteenth century Abu Dhabi became a magnet for the Bani Yas, so much so, that the Sheikh of the Al Bu Falah branch moved there from Liwa; soon after, Maktoum rule was established in Dubai Creek by the Al Bu Falasah branch of the Bani Yas. The British eventually ousted the French and Dutch as international, regional competitors, a local power, the Qawasim slowly built up their strength and sought to wrest control of the sea from the British. By the nineteenth century they were able to put to sea over 20,000 sailors and their fleet had over sixty capital ships. Such a powerful fleet posed a serous challenge to the British East India Company and Royal Navy that inevitably clashes between the two occurred and eventually the Qasimi fleet was destroyed. Once assured of the hegemony of the seas and the exclusion of other foreign powers, the British signed a series of treaties with the individual rulers and the area became known as the Trucial States. The maritime truce ensured the peaceful expansion of the pearl trade that lasted up to the rule of Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa the Great of Abu Dhabi and the First World War. The First World War and the resulting world economic depression that followed, dealt a savage blow to the pearling industry that was to continue throughout much of the twenties. As a consequence development was hampered in the Trucial States and much of the surrounding region until the arrival in the 1930s of companies who came to the peninsular, to prospect for a commodity that was to prove much more valuable oil.

23

Route 1 / LIWA
general information The Liwa Crescent is a group of oases in the shape of a crescent, situated on the edge of the Rub al-Khali (the Empty Quarter), which extends into Saudi Arabia and Oman. One of the longest and most remote trips in this book, the Liwa offers views of some of the highest sand dunes anywhere in the UAE. During the trip, the colour of the sand changes from white to cream, to yellow, then to orange, red and, finally, to deep red the further inland you travel. The route described here incorporates only half of the Liwa Crescent and a tiny fraction of the Empty Quarter. There are numerous other roads and tracks that invite further exploration. The choice is yours but make sure you have the necessary skills and equipment before venturing off-road.

In BrIef
Starting point: Dubai or Abu Dhabi Finishing point: Al Ain Distance/time: Approximately 750 km. Add another 160 km if youre returning to Abu Dhabi from Al Ain or 135 km if your final destination is Dubai. This trip takes a minimum of two days. Activities: Sand dune driving, exploring the wilderness Highlights: Towering sand dunes of varying colours, old and modern ways of life in the fertile crescent of the Liwa, desert wildlife, challenging dune drives and the spirit of Wilfred Thesiger.

24

OFF-ROad in the eMiRateS ii

LIWA
How to get tHere If youre travelling from Dubai or the Northern Emirates, head in a south-westerly direction towards Abu Dhabi, along the main Dubai to Abu Dhabi road (Sheikh Zayed Road in Dubai territory, which leads into Sheikh Maktoum bin Rashid Al Maktoum Road in Abu Dhabi territory). As you approach, just before Shahama (N 24 33.65 E 54 41.72), keep right and take the E11 multi-laned carriageway towards Tarif and Liwa and then head in a southerly direction along the dual carriageway. Youll pass a turn-off to the E22 and the Mafraq Hospital but continue straight past Mafraq on your left. Just after the point where incoming traffic from the E22 joins the E11 theres a lay-by where you can stop and zero your odometer (N 24 18.17 E 54 37.75) before continuing in the direction of Tarif. If youre travelling from Abu Dhabi, take the E22 towards Al Ain and, just before Mafraq, take the turn-off onto the E11 towards Tarif and the Liwa and youll be able to stop at the same lay-by immediately thereafter.

TIPS
Take extra petrol, food and water with you, as well as
camping gear and a pair of binoculars in case you spot wildlife such as gazelle or birds of prey. Travel with a minimum of two vehicles packed with recovery equipment.
At 19.8 km (N 24 13.00 E 54 25.34) youll pass a sign for Hmeem (aka Hameem or Hamim) and, 400 m further on, the actual turn-off, which will take you to a flyover which crosses the E11 and to another roundabout at 22.7 km. Continue straight (southwards) at this roundabout onto a single-lane carriageway the E65 deeper into the desert and past several oil fields. This is the beginning of the longest stretch of straight road during the trip more than 140 km that will lead you inexorably to Hmeem, the first oasis in the Liwa Crescent. As the road to Hmeem is, for the most part, long and straight, its not difficult to speed or, worse still, fall asleep at the wheel if you dont keep your wits about you. If you feel tired, pull over, stop your vehicle, stretch your legs for a few minutes and

Sheikh hamad's global mobile home against the backdrop of the Pyramid Building, which houses his exclusive collection of cars.

25

enjoy a cup of coffee from your flask. As you drive south, youll find yourself surrounded by rolling dunes of white sand, which stretch to the horizon in every direction. A number of camel farms, and the forestry and date-palm plantations set back from the roadside, indicate the successful labours of the local inhabitants and the government to green the desert. Here, some of the most modern methods of irrigation are used. SHeikH HamadS camp After some 30 km, depending on the weather, you should see a mirage of a pyramid in the distance. The mirage remains and, at 33 km, youll see an enclosed compound. The entrance to the compound is at 34.2 km (N 24 05.94 E 54 25.04) where a sign invites you to view a car museum as well as a hereditary museum belonging to Sheikh Hamad bin Hamdan Al Nahyan. One of the first exhibits, a giant Land Rover Defender, guards the entrance, while two huge trailers, one in the shape of the world and the other a gigantic, multistorey caravan, are parked outside next to a monster Mercedes saloon. The complex also incorporates a small grocery store and petrol is available. After your visit, continue south towards Hmeem. red SandS Another interesting feature of this portion of the trip into the Liwa is the change in the colour of the sand, which is so gradual that, unless youre conscious of it, you may not notice until the colour has completely changed from white to red. If you keep your eyes peeled, youll notice the change first occurs in only the outer or exposed layer of sand, especially in the dunes dips and on their leeward sides, where deposits are protected from the wind.

ABU DHABI
22
E

a ah Sh T/

Ma
8k m

19.
14.4 km
65
E

T H E
To RU SAUDI WAIS ARABIA

G U L F
11
E

Tarif

White Sand Dunes

48.6 km

Al Fathiy T/O

To Sahil
Madinat Zayed

19.

4k

Ye l l o w S a n d D u n e s
Farm N 23 1 E 54 Farm 2

65

76.8 km

Red S

Attab Fort N 23 08.21' T/O E 53 53.68' Jabbana N 23 03.61' Fort T/O E 54 04.28'

Al Tharwaniyah Meel .4 Shah Liwa Al km Nashsheh Resthouse Liwa Cresc 29. en 4k t Mezairaa N 23 07.95' m
11 km
23

Tarif

Hmeen

Camp T/O

R/A

E 53 47.78'

THE EMPTY QUARTER

N 22 56.83' E 54 17.36' Liwa N 22 56.73' T/O E 54 17.11'

9.4

km
21.4 km

*This map is not an authority on international boundaries.

S A U D I

A R A B I A

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OFF-ROad in the eMiRateS ii

LIWA
a am ah Sh T/O
22
E

BU DHABI

11

DU BA I

Shahama N 24 33.65' T/O E 54 41.72'

N EIHA SUW

To DUBAI
135 km

Mafraq

m 8k 19.

Mafraq N 24 18.17' Junction E 54 37.75'

160 km
E

AL AIN SOHAR MUSCAT Jebel Hat

1300 m

14.4 km

22

Town N 23 12.83' Centre E 55 45.59' Ain Al N 24 05.42' Fayda E 55 43.45'

nd Dunes

65

Signs to N 24 13.00' Hmeen E 54 25.34' Sheikh Hamads N 24 05.94' Camp E 54 25.04' Al Fathiya N 23 40.25' T/O E 54 24.04' Camp N 23 34.79' E 54 34.01'

Al Qabil

48.6 km

IBR IN

23 38.87' Al Wijan N 55 34.02' E T-Junction N 23 23.23' E 55 24.84'

AI Oya N 23 35.89' E 55 32.59'

A IZW

To Sahil

19. 4

km
14.6 km 3.6 km

Farm N 23 26.71' 3 E 54 49.77'

Dunes

13.4

Farm N 23 31.06' 1 E 54 41.79' Farm N 23 30.53' 2 E 54 42.97'

km 11 k m

Farm N 23 24.55' 4 E 54 55.13'

Bedouin Fork N 23 20.60' Camp E 55 13.98' 1

7 km
13 km

Al Quaa Town

65

Sabkha

3k

13 km

Gate

Al Quaa N 23 18.78' Gate/Junction E 55 21.15'

Dune N 23 20.93' Crossing E 55 04.31'

76.8 km

Red Sand Dunes

Dune N 23 19.19' Crossing E 55 11.43'

23 03.61' 54 04.28'

ah

U N I T E D A R A B E M I R A T E S
Hmeen

Al Nashsheh
m

B o r d e r

F e n c e

4k

Camp N 22 53.21' T/O E 54 20.73' Wasa Army Post

21.4 km

9.4

km

N 23 08.21' E 53 53.68'

56.73' 17.11'

Umm Az Zamul
0 KILOMETRES 20 40 km

B I A

daries.

27

the enveloping arms of sand dunes, protecting an oasis. The layer seems to thicken and widen as you progress southwards, until it completely covers the area, and gradually changes the dunes colour from white, prevalent in the first 50 km of the trip, to yellow and orange for the next 25 km or so, and finally to red and deep red for the rest of the way. Their long shadows and smooth curves are a photographers dream just after sunrise and close-ups of the ripples depict interesting patterns. The variety of form and colour makes for interesting panoramas and, if youre lucky, youll also be able to spot indigenous fauna, such as gazelle, browsing on the natural dune vegetation, the abundance of which is somewhat unexpected in such an arid environment. The E65 gently bends on a couple of occasions but, mostly remains straight until Hmeem. There are one or two tracks that lead to small outposts, including Sahil and Asab, along with several radio masts along the way, which are clearly visible for miles around. At 82.8 km (N 23 40.25 E 54 24.04) youll reach the turn-off to Al Fathiya and Al Quaa which should be carefully noted for the return journey. Hmeem and tHe liwa creScent Silhouettes of very high sand dunes, resembling mountains, appear at around 151 km, indicating your imminent arrival in the Liwa, and the appearance of an oasis, neatly tucked into the sand dunes, along with numerous farms and a mix of old and new dwellings show youve reached Hmeem. Hmeem at 159.6 km is the first (easternmost) settlement in the Liwa crescent where the scenery completely and dramatically changes from a landscape of desert and government forest farms, to one of green pastures, government housing and a dual carriageway tucked between dunes.

28

OFF-ROad in the eMiRateS ii

LIWA

Ships of the desert, a few days away from the last oasis. The fertile crescent of the Liwa consists of numerous villages, including Mezaira'a, some 60 km away from Hmeem and the largest town in the Liwa; Meel Shah at 54 km, Al Tharwaniyah at 39 km and Mousel at 14 km. Its worth exploring at least some of the Liwa Crescent and its villages and forts before heading into the desert and its also advisable to top-up with fuel at the local petrol station, adjacent to a radio mast, by making a U-turn in Hmeem. The petrol station (N 22 56.83 E 54 17.36) is a couple of hundred metres or so further on. The petrol station offers more than just petrol. Being the only one at the eastern end of the Liwa Crescent, it attracts a variety of photogenic characters of different nationalities from the surrounding villages people who are invariably a good source of information about many subjects, including the Liwa area. Of course, knowledge of Arabic is an asset here. As for asking directions, its advisable to ask more than one person, and make sure they understand where youre heading. Near the petrol station, theres also a small tearoom, which could prove useful for refreshments after camping out in the desert wilderness, not to mention taking in a bit of the local colour. Along the dual carriageway, traditional arish (barasti) huts made from palm leaves have given way to rows of white government-built houses and a few large luxury villas. The extensive agricultural land, which makes use of the latest irrigation technology, indicates the extensive efforts taken to bring modernity, comfort and infrastructure to the desert Bedu. The highway follows the old caravan route that connected many of the hamlets in the Liwa. You should be able to appreciate the old lifestyle and Bedu hospitality by stopping at any of the villages along the way. Greetings can be exchanged and you may even be offered

29