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CHAPTER "NUNO FELT" FROM A BOOK "VELTINIS" ("FELT")

Veltinis
. . Vilte Kazlauskaite

NUNO FELT

All rights reserved by Vilte Kazlauskaite Author: Vilte Kazlauskaite from a book "Veltinis", 2008. ISBN 9789955669326
Silk ponge, crickled silk chiffon, silk chiffon

Translated by the author. Nuno felting is a modern and popular felting technique that creates new forms and endless possibilities in felt. Felting on a chosen fabric creates light, thin, durable, draping, textured textiles. Thin layers of wool are layed on light fabrics and then felted. The most important aspect in nuno felting is to get wool fibers pass well through the chosen fabric before it starts to felt and shrink together with the fabric. In nuno felting wool may have different functions - decorating the fabric, being the main composition of felted item, creating new textures and forms or just binding other fabrics and fibers together. Different kinds of fabrics make different results. The bigger weight of fabric, the greater the texture. For example, silk organza creates deeper textures than light silk chiffon. Meanwhile clear silk chiffon creates an effective visual contrast with the wool. It is always better to choose natural, quite light, open weave fabrics for nuno felting. For example: muslin, silk chiffon, silk ponge, organza, linnen (beginners should choose chiffon or muslin, gaze). Wool for nuno felting should be very thin and fast felting, e.g. merino wool tops.

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N U N O

F E L T I N G A. Lay the chosen fabric on the bubble plastic wrap. B. Start puting thin layers of wool or cut details from prefelt. The surface of the wool can also be decorated with pieces of silk tops, flax or other fibers (on top of the wool). Then cover with a net. C. Spray the surface with tepid soapy water. D. Keep striking the surface until the water is well absorbed. Remove the net. E. Cover the fabric with another piece of bubble wrap (bubbles facing down), roll it as usual when felting. Keep rolling until the fibers get through fabric (about 400 times in each direction - 4 directions total as in common flat felting procedure. If the decoration is complicated and it is very important to keep it in its original place while felting, cover the decorations with thin plastic (used for wrapping food items). Remove this extra covering after 2 sets of rolling (400 each). Continue felting in the usual way.

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F. Unroll the felt and work over the surface with your soapy hands. Then fold the fabric into a "parcel" (wooly side in). Moisture the "parcel" well and work in some soap. G. Throw the folded fabric for 30-40 times on the table or sink. H. Unfold the fabric and fold it again in new folding lines. Keep throwing it for 30-40 times more. Vibration makes wool shrink fast in this stage of felting. I. When the wool starts to shrink, you can accelerate the process by puting the fabric into hot soapy water and then throwing it again. No need to fold the fabric at this stage. Just crush it in your hands and throw. You can also put your wet and soapy fabric into a microwave for 1 minute and then throw your felt until it cools. Continue throwing until you get the desired shrinkage and texture of the fabric.

J. Rinse out your nuno felt and dry flat.


Vilte Kazlauskaite - shawl Ginger honey. Silk chiffon, merino wool, silk, flax.

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Vilte Kazlauskaite shawl Daughter of Sun

Kseniya Berestovaya shawl Blue green

Vilte Kazlauskaite shawl Tale of the Blue Bird

Vilte Kazlauskaite shawl Flowers in Astana

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Donata Dumciuviene linnen shawl, nunofelt Longing for the Sea

Jurgita Migoniene. Shawls.

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T I P S : If you are felting a functional item, you should aim for maximal shrinkage it could be 50% or more). If felting for decorative purposes, you may felt as much as you want to get the visual effect you need. In nuno felting it is most important to make the wool fibers and fabric attach to each other before wool felts and shrinks. You should start felting using only tepid water and raise its temperature just in the middle or ending of the process. While throwing the fabric it is important to keep it damp and soapy, so that the wool fibers avoid geting disheveled. Wool is shrinking along the length of its fiber. This should be considered in laying the wool desing and counting the final measurments of the felt. It is useful to use a needle felted prefelts for creating very delicate decorations. Desired details are cut from prefelt, layed on the fabric, covered with thin plastic wrap or kept in place with some tacking stitches. It is being felted in a usual way then. Thin plastic covering or tacking stitches are removed as soon as the prefelt attaches to the fabric. In order to get straight edges of the felt, thin strips of wool are layed along the edges of fabric. In order to create uneven, wavy, interesting edges of the felt, the edges of fabric shouldn't be fully covered in wool. Some wool might be layed perpendicularly to the fabric edges. If wool is layed on one side of the fabric, the final nuno felted fabric will look different on both sides - a side with a wool will have a wool felt visible, the oposite crumpled, bubbled texture and some wool "mist" visible. Both sides might be considered as face sides - it depends on the aim of the felter. Thus wool might be just a bonding material, used for creating new textures from different fabrics. Painted, batik dyed silk fabric gains special characteristics and textures in combining it with wool in felting.

Donata Dumeiuviene. Shawl Tameless blooming. One side - nuno felted fabric, the other - wool.

Donata Dumeiuviene. Two sided shawl Verdures of the Sea. One side - nuno felted fabric, the other - wool.

Donata Dumeiuviene. Shawl Old Land of Indians. One side - nuno felted painted silk, the other - wool.

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Vilte Kazlauskaite. Shawl "For the Baltic Bride". Silk ponge, merino wool, silk , flax, amber

Vilte Kazlauskaite. Wrap "Tree of Life". Details cut from prefelt.

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Vilte Kazlauskaite Morning Sun. silk chiffon, merino wool, silk, flax, batik dyed

Inga Samusiene shawl Heat of the Ground, silk chiffon, merino wool, batik dyed

Inga Samusiene shawl Ground, Air, Water" silk chiffon, merino wool, batik dyed

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If you need to create a similar looking sides of fabric, wool should be layed on both sides of fabrique. But a more effective result is reached if some areas of fabric are left uncovered with wool: A. Lay the fabric on the bubble wrap. B. Decorate it with wool. C. Cover with net and spray with soapy water. D. Remove the net and cover with another piece of bubble wrap. E. Carefully turn the fabric upside down. F. Remove the bubble wrap on top and decorate this side of fabric with wool. G. Cover with net, spray with water and felt in the usual way. Another option for creating 2 similar looking sides of fabric is felting wool between 2 pieces of fabric. Wool is not clearly visible then (just a "mist" of it), and the fabrics acquire unique texture: A. Lay the fabric on the bubble wrap. B. Lay thin pieces of wool and cover with another fabric (you can use different kinds of fabrics for creating different textures). C. Spray the fabric well, so that both fabrics and wool between them get really wet. D. Felt in a usual way, just keep on turning your nuno felt from one side to another while felting. Felting wool in between 2 fabrics takes longer rolling process.

Another possibility of nuno felt is collage technique. Chosen fabric is covered with pieces of prefelt or wool tops that are then layered with the chosen materials - lace, crocheted pieces, other kinds of fabrics that are kept in places with tacking stiches before felting. Stitches are removed when all materials bond well during felting. This technique is quite complicated, it requires good control. The most important in this technique is to remember that all pieces of chosen materials are bound by wool (the silk won't attach to lace by itself, it is wool that attaches all materials into the solid felt).

Kseniya Shinkovskaya. Handbag Elephant. Various silk fabrics, wool and silk fibers. Wool has several functions here: bonds 2 layers of fabrics, decorates the surface of fabric, attaches different kinds of fabric on the surface of the handbag, covers the stitches of the bag.

Kseniya Shinkovskaya. Lamp Cocoon. Various kinds of wool, silk chiffon, silk tops, lace, dryed flowers. Pieces of silk chiffon, nuno felted, decorated with dryed flowers, stiffened and formed with methocel.

Nuno felting is a technique of endless possibilities that creates various textures, thin or thick pieces of textiles. It lets you create new fabrics that can also be cut and sewn, or formed into objects using fiber paper making techniques, i.e. thin nuno felted pieces are covered with methylcellulose or wall paper glue with methocel, other textile stiffening medium and then dryed on the desired form.

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