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URE N AND ILLUSIOHE HUMAN FIG T ENTS IN XPERIMRANSFORMING E

DUSTIN MABERRY
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Special Thanks to: My sister, My Father, Mother, Grandparents and Aunt, The KCAI Grapic Design faculty, Peggy Noland, Maegan Stracy, Keanan Duffty, Harley Sears, Drew Bolton, Michael Wiehe and Rachel Rolon.

MY OBJ ECTIVE S
My primary objective is to explore fashion through the eyes of a graphic designer. I intend to use the knowledge that I have about graphic design, and use the digital textile printing process to merge graphic design with fashion. I will be exploring what I can contribute as a graphic designer to fashion design through graphic treatments and pattern work. I will not only be expanding my own skill set and exploring a new side of graphic design, but also using environmentally sensible and sustainable decision-making to do so. Its important to me to actually implement sustainable practices into my work, rather than just simply talk or conceptualize about it. My intention is to make an innovative contribution to textile design using my developed skill set from the rich and complex education I have received so far. I am interested in applying the strength of my graphic understanding to a three-dimensional, or even sculptural application in fashion design.

ORIGINAL PROPOSAL QUESTION

How can I as a graphic designer make an innovative contribution to fashion design, pairing digital textile prints with three-dimensional sculptural elements of clothing design?

MY M E S SAG E
My primary message is to clearly articulate the influence that graphic design can have on fashion design, and the richness that it can produce. I intend to explore interplay between two-dimensional surface prints and three-dimensional sculptural elements in fashion, and discover how graphic design can bridge the gap between the two. I hope to investigate what kinds of connections I can make between the prints and the clothing design itself, and merging the 2D and 3D planes to create a meaningful and intentional relationship of form-making. How does graphic design translate to a threedimensional form like the human body? What about the human body in motion?

MY P R I MARY AU DI E NCE
My primary audience for this project is fashion designers, textile designers and graphic designers. My secondary audience includes those who are fashionably inclined and interested in clothing. I will be essentially making a line of menswear clothing.

C OM P ETITIVE LAN DSCAP E


There are many trailblazers in the use of print and pattern on clothing. Basso & Brooke, for example, is a label that is largely revered for their pioneering use of the digital print technique within the fashion industry. Gerlan Jeans is another leading print-based fashion line. It is the brainchild of Gerlan Marcel, who creates extremely playful, bold, and bright prints as the most expressive and essential part of her clothing. Manish Arora is perhaps the most extreme case of two-dimensional prints in fashion. The Indian designer uses extremely dense pattern work to create spectacular fashion designs that often imitate nature. His designs are really over the top and difficult to digest. A complete sensory overload. But for me, The most inspiring fashion print pioneer is the late Alexander McQueen. His genius and talent was supernatural and dark. McQueens womens SS09 collection featured multi-coloured diamond facet prints which he applied to leggings, dresses, and jackets. His lace and geometric print leggings are also incredibly striking to me. His deep and twisted genius has had a profound effect on my work as a graphic designer embarking on a love affair with digital textile printing.

W H AT S S O M E A N I N G F U L A B O U T C L O T H E S ?
What we wear each day is the external representation of ourselves; its how we present ourselves to the outside world. Some of us chose to amplify that expression, and really have fun with style and fashion, while others are content with something that just allows them to feel comfortable. Whatever your tactic is for dressing yourself everyday, there is no denying that fashion is like an art piece that we wear on our bodies, instead of exhibiting on a canvas or presenting as a printed artifact. It is the one aspect of our lives that we cant help but be even the least bit expressive with. Each garment that you chose to wear says something about yourself.

In my exploration I am interested in balancing functional and wearable garments for men that are also highly expressive. They will demonstrate an ornamental form-making with a high level of refinement, derived from my visual communication training.
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FORMAL I N S P I R AT I O N

Gareth Pugh - Layered Silk Trench Jacket

Asger Juel-Larsen

Alexander McQueen Mens Autumn/Winter 2011

Costume from a Brigand Lon Bakst 1912 (from the ballet Daphnis et Chloe)

Sketch for the costume of Iskander Lon Bakst 1911 (for the ballet: Le pri)

Lon Bakst was a Russian painter and scene and costume designer
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Alexis Mabille SS 2011


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Songzio SS11

Jean Paul Gaultier SS 2010/2011

Alexander McQueen

Qasimi Homme
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Bernhard Willhelm

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Bernhard Willhelm

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GRAPHIC E X P L O R AT I O N & EXPERIMENT

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Leggings sketch #2

K W I K - S E W S E W I N G PAT T E R N S

E X P E R I M E N T No. 1 L E G G I N G S D E S I G N
My first research experiment, is more than just a prototype. I have designed leggings and sent them to a digital textile printer, Fabric On Demand. They will be sewn according to the design that I have mocked up to the right, so I can get my toe in the water of digital textile printing, and how it functions in garment construction. This way, I will have tried the process once and will understand the way it works, and what limitations it has. Their purpose is to be worn under jeans. It will be a quick and functional garment to create for the cold winter months.

Leggings sketch #1

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BIKE SHORTS S E W I N G PAT T E R N

E X P E R I M E N T No. 2 L E G G I N G S S E W I N G PAT T E R N
This is the mens leggings KWIK SEW pattern that I purchased at Hancock Fabrics in Overland Park, Kansas. I used it to determine how my design will be printed, and based on that, how it will be constructed into a garment. It will be given to Peggy Noland, along with the 2 printed yards of fabric that I just ordered from Fabric On Demand. Then, they will be sewn into leggings.

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E X P E R I M E N T No. 2 C A P E S E W I N G PAT T E R N *
*All womens patterns will be adapted to fit menswear.

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E X P E R I M E N T No. 3 L E G G I N G S D I G I TA L T E X T I L E P R I N T

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I have decided now that whatever final artifact(s) I create, will be menswear garments only. Originally I was hoping to design for both men and women, but it dawned on me that is not a realistic undertaking for an undergraduate Graphic Design student who has never had fashion design training of any kind.

sketch for a womans coat

final menswear sketch template

above: front and back sketch detail of cowl neck long sleeve shirt

E X P E R I M E N T No. 4 C R O Q U I S S K E T C H E S
In fashion, the term croquis refers to a quick sketch of a figure, typically 9 heads tall, which creates the elongated proportions for fashion illustration, with a loose drawing of the clothes that are being designed. I rendered the figures in a much more realistic manner, disregarding the 9 heads rule that is typical of the elongated model forms used in fashion sketching.

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sketch template for mens jeggings

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E X P E R I M E N T No. 4 C R O Q U I S S K E T C H E S

cape shirt

above: placket shirt

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E X P E R I M E N T No. 3 C R O Q U I S S K E T C H E S

front and back views of elongated shirt

trousers

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E X P E R I M E N T No. 3 C R O Q U I S S K E T C H E S

front and back views of elongated shirt

on right: trousers

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Geometry Study #2 the penrose triangle

Geometry Study #1

Geometry Study #4

E X P E R I M E N T No. 3 (S Y M M E T R I C A L ) G E O M E T R Y S T U D I E S
As a simple exercise in form making, I have created symmetrical geometry studies. The use of symmetry in these abstract graphic forms is associated with the way that the human body is built on a symmetrical structure, and therefore clothing is naturally partial to being created in a symmetrical format.

Geometry Study #3

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R E V I S E D P R OJ E CT P R O P O S A L Q U E S T I O N

How can my work transform, enhance, compliment, and camouflage the human form through graphic treatment?

TRANSFORM ENHANCE COMPLIMENT CAMOUFLAGE


S P E C U L AT E D T O O L S / M E D I A

- digital textile prints - full outfits (number unknown) - video piece: runway - photographic documentation - set design
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V I S U A L S T H AT T R A N S F O R M , E N H A N C E , C O M P L I M E N T, DI SG U I S E, OR CAMOU F LAG E TH E FOR M

TRANSFORM & CAMOU F LAG E

TRANSFORM
& OPTICAL I LLUS ION

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V I S U A L S T H AT T R A N S F O R M , E N H A N C E , C O M P L I M E N T, DI SG U I S E, OR CAMOU F LAG E TH E FOR M

CAMOU F LAG E
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V I S U A L S T H AT T R A N S F O R M , E N H A N C E , C O M P L I M E N T, DI SG U I S E, OR CAMOU F LAG E TH E FOR M

C OM P LI M E NT

Alexander McQueen Womens SS09

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OPTICAL I LLUS ION

ENHANCE

I LLUS ION OF MOVE M E NT

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GARMENTS IN PROGRESS

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E -T E X T I L E S

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LED (Sparkle Kit) Lights

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