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2011
5.24.2011
with a properly designed smoke shelf. My steel and brick forge (shown here) was a great success and I plan to build another like it again in the future. And now let's look at where the chimney design came from. Chimney design based on article by Dimitri Gerakaris in the Anvil's Ring. Internal dimensions of the chimney were based roughly on those found in the Anvil's Ring Vol. 7 #1 from March 1979 (also known as the Hoodless Forge issue). These designs were chosen because they did not smoke like other chimneys of the previous era. Anyone that has seen an old brick chimney built during the 1900s is aware that the chimneys during that era were all smoky. The internal designs of these chimneys solved the smoky chimney problem and featured a smoke shelf to help chimney draft during weather turbulence.
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will be bolted down is to the masonry legs at the front of the forge. The hearth simply rests under its own weight along the corbeled sides of the chimney since it isn't likely to move if it is bumped or struck. A hardie rack was cast in place in the mortar near the base of the chimney. The space between the rails of the hardie rack fits my anvil tools, or about 1-1/8" between rails. Positioning of the firepot in front of the chimney. Because room inside the shop was at a premium I was forced to locate the chimney as near to the wall as possible and so the smoke hole in the chimney was offset to compensate for firepot placement. The photo (right) shows the position of the firepot near the chimney. The rear edge of the firepot is about 3 inches from entrance to the smoke hole of the chimney. This was one of my experiments to find out if it was beneficial to place the firepot on a rotating separate plate to allow the firepot to change position for different jobs. I recommend that others don't do this because the firepot is never rotated. I now build coal forges with the firepot inset into the hearth, so the edges of the firepot are placed level with the surrounding hearth plate surface. Refractory material protects brick nearest firepot. Fireplace cement was molded onto the front surface of the chimney nearest the fire to help protect the masonry. The intense heat of the fire would quickly deteriorate the masonry otherwise. Lintel bar. A lintel bar of angle iron supports the brick structure above the smoke entrance in the bottom of the chimney. The lintel bar is offset outward, so that a small sheet metal hood can be hung from the protruding edge of the lintel bar. Hearth. The raised sides of the hearth are made of 1/4 x 2 inch flat steel, and are welded around the perimeter of the hearth to help keep fuel from falling off. The photo (far right) is a view of the side of the hearth nearest the smith. At center of this photo the cutout area of the rim around the forge hearth, is clearly visible. The small hearth extension is visible (an extension of the hearth projecting out towards the smith) at the cutout area. And of great importance in this view is the reinforcement of the edge of the hearth in this area. It can be clearly seen that edge of the hearth is reinforced around its perimeter by the rim welded to it, but to remove a portion of the sides or rim anywhere along the hearth would leave it weak and prone to bending or collapse in that area. To strengthen this area the rim or side of the hearth is continued from underneath with a piece of 1/4 x 2 flat material welded to the underside of the hearth edge. The reinforcement overlaps the ends of the sides from underneath and gives maximum reinforcement to support this area as though no cutout existed. Also visible in the photo (near right) is the plumbing of the air blast pipe from the blower. The blast air delivery piping is placed around the front of the forge and then down and backward into the hollow of the chimney where it then bends up and forward again to enter the tuyere pipe of the firepot. This was a mistake. Each bend of the air pipe restricts the flow of blast air. Had a hole been built into the lower-rear of the brick chimney structure, a single bend, or possibly a bend and a half would
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have directed air into back of the tuyere. There are a total of 5 bends between the blower and the tuyere pipe in this picture. Each bend makes it more difficult to get air into the fire. Simple hanging tongs racks were fashioned from 1/4 x 1" flat stock which were made to hang from the sides of the hearth rim. The racks hung down well below the top edges of the hearth rim so that the ends of the jaws of the tongs were made lower than the hearth rim so that they didn't foul tooling or iron while working in the fire. At lower left is the smaller tongs rack near the anvil which kept the group of tongs most used or needed immediately. Firing the forge for the first time. In the photo at left (Click on the thumbnail) a fire has been lit for the first time in this forge and a small bar is being heated. This was in the middle of December and the cold weather slowed the curing of the mortar so I didn't want to chance a large full size fire. Even with a small fire like this one, notice that the draught of the chimney is so strong that it actually bends the flame backwards towards the smoke hole. The edge of the rim which runs around the hearth, cutout to allow for level placement of the iron through the fire. In the picture at left the iron and tongs can be seen hanging over the edge of the forge nearest the smith. A small extension plate was welded to the edge of the hearth plate here at an angle slightly above horizontal, to give added work area to help support long pieces in the fire and to help keep fuel from falling off the edge. Also notice the group of fire bricks laid along the fire both in front of the fire and behind it inside the chimney. These bricks create a trough to help build up the height of the fuel in the fire and to help maintain the fire. Some of the older all-brick and mortar forges were built with a trough cast into the surface of the hearth to create this same effect permanently. To see what this effect is based on, look at the pictures on the Dows Blacksmith forge.
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A piece of pipe or other object placed across the opening of the hearth rim near the fire kept fuels from falling off the hearth during use. Seen here in the working photos at left are some large scrolls being heated. The weight of the scrolls rests on the pipe placed across the opening in the hearth edge, but if it caused any obstruction to placement of objects in the fire, the pipe could be removed quickly. The small shelf near this opening in the hearth edge, was slightly inclined to help fuels stay on the hearth when the opening here was not blocked up with pipe. As can be seen in these photos, smoke entering the side draft chimney literally lays over sideways to enter the bottom half of the entrance in the chimney. This demonstrates the strength of the draw acting on the smoke and forcing it into the chimney. After months of continuous work, cinders accumulate in a sloped pile in the bottom opening of the chimney. This poses no problem and is actually desirable. The cinders or fines protect the bottom surface of the chimney from direct flames of the fire. Periodically some of the excess cinder pile will need to be removed (about once a year) and discarded. There are about 6 firebricks in front of the fire to raise the height of the fire - making the fire deeper and easier to maintain. More firebricks are hidden beneath the cinders between the firepot and the chimney entrance. At left are two photos of the view the blacksmith sees while standing at the anvil.
At right is the view of the shop and forge when looking into the building. Because of the tiny size of this shop ( 11' x 16) space was at a premium. Behind the photographer and to his left and right were a drill press and a Little Giant 25-pound power hammer. Hardie racks were cast into the brick work on the side of the lower section of the chimney during construction. Hammer racks were cast into the rear of the brick structure to hold lesser used hammer tools. Again the pipe laying across the cutout area of the rim of the forge hearth is visible here in place to help hold fuels on the hearth. The pipe is not necessary, but is a simple and quick convenience. Not visible here also, was a wood-burning stove for heat. The stove was located to the left of the forge in this photo and about 6 feet away from the smith.
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At left and below left, are photos of my first successful forge built of angle iron and sheet metal. A Centaur Vulcan firepot and a British Alcosa F-70 hand-cranked blower, both bought new, from Centaur Forge are installed on this forge. Firebrick lines the rear wall of the hood right up to the bottom of the chimney flue. This steel forge (photo at left) worked well enough that I used it for 6 years. It was a of a conventional style of fabricated forge with a half hood. Similar in design to modern fabricated forges which can still be purchased from Centaur Forge today. A tong rack was welded to the front to support some of the tongs I used for blacksmith work. Firebrick lined the rear wall of the hood up to just below the chimney pipe. Smoke actually is attracted to brick structures and will hug this wall until entering the chimney. The top of the fire brick acted as a smoke shelf - helping to control the back drafts that would otherwise push smoke back down the chimney during wind gusts on windy days. It should be noted here that, the original hood configuration allowed smoke to blow back down the chimney during wind gusts on windy days. After adding the brick wall under the hood (as shown in the photo at right), these back drafts stopped, and the rolling action that the smoke shelf caused on the smoke was quite visible during wind gusts by simply looking under the hood. There was one more row of brick stacked up under the hood but due to the dark photo, this is not visible. The top of the brick was 4 inches above the bottom edge of the hood. Only after building up the back wall on this forge to its final height, did I finally discover the effects of a smoke shelf. It was this forge shown at right, that caused me to seriously consider the contributions that the smoke shelf offers in chimney construction. The open construction of this style of hood allows the smith to look up under the hood to see how well smoke flows over a smoke shelf under every condition. And just for the record, I never intended to build a smoke shelf on this forge. The smoke shelf is an incidental part of stacking up a brick wall behind the fire to help guide the smoke. My discovery of the action of smoke shelves was entirely accidental. The chimney is a custom made sheet metal pipe, made at a local fabrication shop. A new Alcosa F-70 hand cranked blower was fastened to an arm extending from the back of the forge. The firepot was a Centaur Vulcan which at that time cost about $85. (They are about double that in price now I think.) Firebrick was then built up around the fire pot to help create a deeper fire and make use of gravity when tending the fire. The forge hearth measured about 40 inches side to side, and about 60 inches from front of tongs rack to rear of chimney. Hearth height (from floor to hearth level) was approximately 32 inches. I used this forge to make everything from wrought iron gates to draft horse shoes. All of the tongs seen in these photos are made by me as well.
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The firebrick in the back of the hood wasn't in my original plan. But over time as I learned to use the forge for more complex forgings and repairs, the brick wall in the rear of the chimney and the bricks around the fire were added. It basically evolved over a year until the forge looked as it does in the first photo shown above right. Note the convenient position of the blower which is mounted so that the crank does not come in line with the path that long bars take when placed in the fire. Long bars could thus be heated with this forge without fouling them with the hand crank of the blower. One problem encountered with this forge is height of the tongs racks. I found through experience that tongs should always be hung so that the jaws are below the level of the forge hearth so that they don't interfere with or foul the bars or objects that are placed in the fire. This is especially a problem when working on large scrolls and parts for gates and when making repairs to large awkward machine parts.
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