1

How to Draft & Make Fakie Hakama

by Samantha Lemieux (`taeliac) Taeliac Studio Cosplay www.BeAnime.com
Thistutorialisonhowtomakefakehakamathatarebothcomfortableandreallydramatic andstylizedforcosplaypurposes.Thetutorialwillnottellyouhowtotackdownthepleats intostraightknifepleats,however,becausethatwillbeinawholeothertutorial.Thiswill justtellyouhowtodraftthepattern,andhowtoputthemtogether.

Theycanbedoneinoneoftwoways,dependingonwhatyouwantthemtobelike:theycaneither haveanelasticwaist,ortheycanhavetheslitsinthesides,withtiestoholdthemon. Theprocessisbasicallythesameforboth,andIwillbeshowingyouhowtodothemwiththeelastic waist,buttherewillbenoteswhensomethingchangesfordoingthesideslitsandties. Thisismeanttobeanintroductiontohowtomakehakamapantsforcosplaypurposes.These hakamaarenottraditionalwiththisdraft,thefrontandthebackofthehakamaareusingthesame pattern.Ifyouwantthemtobemoretraditional,however,*you*cangoaheadandreworkthe patterntoallowforadifferentfrontandbackpleatdesign.

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL! www.BeAnime.com

Measurements Needed & Important Information

Forthistutorial,youwillneedthefollowingmeasurements: - Waist - Hip - Waisttofloor Tohelpyouwithkeepingtrackoftheimportantinformationneededwhiledrafting,Iveleftthispage withblankfillinspots.Asyouregoing,writedowntheimportantinfoonthispageintheappropriate spot,soyoucanreferenceitlateron.

YourMeasurements Waist:____________ Hip:____________ Waisttofloor:____________

StartingNumbers StartingWidth:____________ StartingLength:____________

PleatInformation #ofpleats:____________ Depthofpleats:____________

Randomscribblingspace

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

www.BeAnime.com

Drafting the Pattern

Now,personally,Iusually"draft"mypatternssmall,onasheetofgridpaper,toplanitoutbefore goingontothefabric.Andthen,Itakethat,anddrawrightonmyfabric. Ifyouareuncomfortablewithdoingthis,youcanuseanysortofrollofpaperforthis(wrapping paperworkswonderfullyit'swide,andcomesinlongsheets)tomaketheoriginalpattern.Itis goingtobeuptoyouhowyouwanttodothis,it'smorebasedonyourcomfortlevelwithdrawingon fabricaccurately. Forthesehakama,thereare4panelsthatmakeupthepantstwofrontandtwobackpieces,and theyareallidentical,soyouonlyhavetodraftthisonce.

Starting Width
1.First,weneedtofindthemeasurementweregoingtoworkoffof. Ifyouaremakingthehakamawiththeelasticwaistband,youwillbeworkingoffofyourhip measurement(thisistheoneIwillbedoingthroughoutthistutorial). Ifyouaremakingthehakamawiththetiesandsideslits,youwillbeworkingoffofyourwaist measurement. 2.Takewhichevermeasurementyou'reworkingoff of,anddivideitby4(androundituptothenearest half,thereisn'treallyaneedtobethataccuratewith this). 3.Then,add1tothatnumber.Thisisyourextra seamallowance(about)toactuallysewthe hakamatogether. 4.*ONLY*ifyouaremakinghakamawithsideslitsandties,subtractanadditional2 Thisisthestartingwidthofyourhakama.You'renotreadytodraftitout,yet,becausewehaveafew morethingstofigureout.Goaheadandwritethatonyourreferencepage,becausewellneeditagain shortly.

MyExample 1.Mystartinghipmeasurement is40 2.Ithendivideby4,toget10 3.10+1seamallowance= 11 11ismystartingwidth

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

www.BeAnime.com

Drafting the Pattern Starting Length

Thispartiseasytofigureout.Simplytakeyourwaisttofloormeasurement,plus3".THISIS IMPORTANTTOREMEMBER:Thisgivesyou1"ofseamallowanceatthetop,anda2"hematthe bottom! MyExample Yes,youwillhaveabighem.Yes,thereisareasonfor thistheweightoftheextrafabricatthehem,andthe Mywaisttoflooris42, sizeofit,willhelpthehakamatolayinthosenice so42+3is45 wooblesatthebottom,versusjustflaringout.Itreally willaffecthowtheylook,sojustpleasekeep 45ismystartinglength remindingyourselfthatthereisa2"hemonthese pants.We'llgettothehemfasterthannormalpants, butjustkeepremindingyourselfofit.

Pleats
Well,rightnow,wejusthavesomenumbersthatcorrespondtoourbodysizes.Weneedtoaddthe pleatstothehakama,though,toactuallymakehakama! First,decideonhowdeepyouwantthepleatstobe.AsfarasIcantell,traditionalhakamapleatsare about1"deep,butIlikedrama,soIhavemadetheone'sinthiscostume3"deep. Youcangoanynumberyouwant,butifyougomuchover3",theystarttobecomeunwieldytosew, andyou'llgetheavierhakama.But,ifyouneedmore,additinthisisuptoyou!And,theydon'tall havetobethesamedepth,buttheyreallylookmoredramaticiftheyarethewooblesatthebottom willbemoreeven;P Writedownhowmanypleatsyouwant,perpanel. Whenyou'redoingthemathtoaddineachpleat,youneedtoconsiderthatpleatsneedtwicethe depthinfabrictomakethem;so,a3"deeppleatactuallyneeds6"offabrictomakeitwork.A2"deep fabricneeds4"offabric...yougettheidea! Thisiswhy,whenitcomestofabricpurchasing,Irecommendyougetsomuchofit.Youllmorethan likelyneedtoopenupyourfabricandcutjustoneatatime,theybecomeverylarge,veryfast. Next,youneedtodecideonhowmanypleatsyouwant.Traditionally,therearethreepleatsinthe front(and,asthesearenottraditionalhakama,youcanhaveasmanyasyouwant!) Yourlastdecision,atleastatthemoment,iswhereyouwouldlikethepleatstobe.Youcanevenly spacethem,orputthemallclosertothecenterfront,ordosomethingcompletelydifferent.Itisnot vitalrightnowthatyouknowexactlywhereyouwantthem,butgetanideaofwhereyoudlikethem tobe,itwillmakethedraftingaloteasier. Thisiswheredoingitonasmallsheetofpaperhelps
2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL! www.BeAnime.com

Drafting the Pattern Drafting the actual pattern

Todraftoutyourpattern,youshouldstartdrawingarightangle:

Alongtheedge,writeSIDESEAMlikethediagramshows.Thetopseamiswhereyourpleatsare goingtogo,thatisyourwaistline.
2in SIDESEAM

Ifyouaremakinghakamathatareputonwithties,not elastic,you'llwantto'chop'offpartofthisatanangle,at about2"inalongthetoplineand8"downthesideseam. (rememberbefore,whenIhadyoutakeanextra2"offyour startingwidth?Thisiswhy).Besuretomakeanoticeable markatthe8"downline,we'llneedthatlateronwhen sewingittogether.

Ifyouaremakingelasticwaistbandhakama,noneedtodoanythingelse. I'mgoingtoshowyoumypleatingpattern,andyoucanchoosetofollowitifyouwouldlike,orcome upwithyourown.Yournumberswillchange,however,intheamountofspacingyou'llneedtoleave betweeneachpleat.Oneachend(sideseamandcenterfront)youneedtoleaveatleast1",soyou actuallyhavesomeseamallowance. Ifyoullrememberfrommyexample,mystartingwidthis11.ThatistheamountofspaceIneedto "takeup",notincludingthepleats.So,mypleatingpatternisgoingtobe:

4space Pleat#1 6space 3space Pleat#2 6space 2space Pleat#2 6space 2space

8down

SIDESEAM CENTERFRONT
2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

SIDESEAM

www.BeAnime.com

Drafting the Pattern

Ifyouaddtogetherthenumbersnottakenupbypleats(4+3+2+2.5)youllgetthatstartingwidth, or11inthiscase. ThemarkingsofthepleatsisjusthowI'musedtodoingit,soI canquicklyseewherethepleatis,andwheretheactualwaist partis.Thepartswiththelinethroughitarethepleats,and eachendofthepleatismarked,aswellasthemiddle. Hooray!Youhavethetoplinedone! Now,youwanttocompleteyourrectangle.Alongthesideseam, measuredownyourstartinglengthnumber,tothehemofyour pants. Inmyexample,mystartinglengthis45 But,youcan'tcutitoutnow,unlessyouwanttomakeahakamaskirt,orunsplithakama.Ifthatisthe case,goahead,andcutfourofthese,andyou'regoodtogo.Ifyouwantthemtobepants,however, weneedtoaddinthatallimportantcrotchseam.
45

CENTERFRONT

SIDESEAM

Adding the crotch seam

PleaseNote:Thisisjustmyarbitrarymeasurementforacrotchseamyoumayneedtomakeit larger,ifyouarealargerperson,ormaywanttobringtheheightupifyouareshorter.But,this shouldcovermostpeople,butifitdoesn'tworkout,youcanmostdefinitelychangethesenumbers. We'regoingtonowmakeyourcrotchseam,branchingrightoffofyourexistingrectangle. First,measuredownyourcenterfront(CF)seam11",andmakeamark:
11down

CENTERFRONT

Now,squaredofffromthat,makealineout7":

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

SIDESEAM SIDESEAM

CENTERFRONT

7out

www.BeAnime.com

Drafting the Pattern

Thisiswhatyouuseasaguidetodrawyourcurve:

CENTERFRONT

And,yes,theseamallowanceshouldbeaddedinhere,too;PBecauseI'mtrickylikethat! Now,you'regoingtodrawanotherline,allthewaydownto thehem,andthisisyournewINSEAMline(markitas inseam,soyoudon'tgetconfusedlateron). Hooray!Youhaveyourpatternforyourhakama!You're goingtoneedtocutfour(4)oftheseout,twoforthefront, andtwofortheback. Tofiguretheamountoffabricyou'llprobablyneed,just takeyourstartinglength,andmultiplyitbyfour.Getthat amount,plusahalfofayardextra,fortheties. Goaheadandcutthem,beingsuretotransferallofthe markingstothefabricpieces,andwe'llgetreadytostart sewing(thehardpartisover,bytheway,sofeelgoodifyoumadeitthroughallofthat!)
SIDESEAM CENTERFRONT

Alright!Thereareafewdifferentstepsdependingonwhattypeofhakamayou'remaking,butthe sewingisbyfartheeasypart,althoughtheorderinwhichyou'regoingtobedoingthingsmaybea littledifferentthanyou'reusedtowithsewing.

Step 1: Sew the side seams together

First,we'regoingtoputthesideseamstogether,tomaketwopantlegs.Ifyouaremakingtheelastic waisthakama,you'regoingtosewtheseamallthewayfromthetoptothebottom. Goandpressthisseam.Pressingeveryseamwhenyousewitisthekeytohavinggoodlooking hakama.

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

SIDESEAM

INSEAM

Sewing the Hakama

www.BeAnime.com

Sewing the Hakama

Ifyouaremakingthetiedhakama,youwillwanttosewthemfrom themark,8"down(Remember?Waybackatthebeginningwhen youweredraftingthepattern,andIsaidtodotheanglething?),all thewaydown,leavingthattoppartopen.
SIDESEAM

Presstheseamopen,allthewayup,andthentopstitchtheopening areadown.Thisiscreatingthefinishededgethere,soyoudon'thave toworryaboutitlater.

Step 2: Hems

Topstitchthe foldededge down,onthe inside,soyou cantseetheraw edgeanymore.

Nowisthetimetoputtheheminyourhakama.Youmaybewondering"whyamIputtingthehemin whenonlyoneoftheseamsistogether?"andthesimpleanswer is,it'saloteasiertodonow,thanlateronwhenthey'reallsewn together.Theinseammaylookalittlebulkywhenit'salldone, butitisasmallpricetopayforthisbeingeasiertodonow. Tofinishthehem,youhavemanyoptions,suchasusingpinking shears,awidezigzagovertherawedge,or,ifyouhaveaccessto anoverlockmachine,doanoverlockonit.Eitherway,finishthe verybottom,rawedge,tokeepitfromfrayingwithlongdaysof wear. Then,stitchyourhemup,eitherbyhand,astraighttopstitch,or, ifyouaredaring,usingablindhemfootandstitchonyour machine(Irefusetogointohowtodothisreadthemanualif youdon'tknowhowtouseyourblindhemfoot,becauseeach machineisdifferent,andifyouhaven'tdoneitbefore,Ihighly recommendjusttopstitchingitinplace.)

Step 3: Pinning the pleats

Now,gobackuptothetopofyourhakama,andwe'regoingto Hakama,withthehemsputinthe bottom,topstitcheddown. startpleating. Thisisthetimewhenyoucanchoosewhichdirectionyouwant yourpleatstogoyoucanhavethempointingoutwardsorinwardsthechoiceiscompletelyupto you.Traditionalhakamahavethempointinginwards,butyoudon'thavetodothatifyoudon'twant to. Pleatdirectionscanbeconfusingifyoureavisualperson,tosaytheleast,sowhatIliketodoisuse justaplainoldstraightpin,andpinthepleatclosed.

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

www.BeAnime.com

Sewing the Hakama

Then,turnyourgarmentsothatyou'reseeing therightsidefacingoutwards,andplaywiththe pleat,movingitsothatit'spointingoutwards, andinwards,andseewhichyoulikebetter. Heck,theyalldon'thavetogointhesame direction,either;it'suptoyou,again,howyou wanttodothem. Onceyoufigureouthowyouwantthepleatsto go,pinthemdowninplace.

Ifyouhaveanypinslostsomewhereinthefoldsofthe pleats,removethembeforestitchingthisdown! Otherwise,youmaywindupbreakingyoursewing needle,ormessingupthestitchingandhavingtoredo it. Thisfinalpictureshowswhatthehakamapleatslook like,fromtherightside,witheverythingpinneddown. ThecrotchseamhereiswheretheCenterFrontis,so thepleatsarefacingtowardsthecenter.

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

www.BeAnime.com

10

Sewing the Hakama Step 4: Stitching the pleats down

Thisisjustgoingtobeawayofholdingthe pleatsinplace,sothatit'seasiertoworkwith fromhereonin. You'regoingtoberemovingthisstitchlateron, justtoletyouknow. Youcaneitherhandbasteormachinebaste alongthetopofthepleats,alittlemorethan1" belowthetopseam(say11/4"down).Make surethatthepleatsdon'tgetcaughtandtwisted inthisstitchifitdoes,takeitoutanddoitagain.Thiswilljustcreatenicelookingpleats,andthatis thewholepointofthesepants!

Step 5: Sewing the pant legs together

Now,we'llgetthemtoactuallystartlookinglikepants!First,youaregoingtowanttosewthe inseamstogether,tocreatetwoseparatepantlegs.Youshoulddefinitelyhavetwo,separatepant legs,ifthey'reattachedatallyou'vedonesomethingwrong(unlessyou'redoingtheskirthakama, thenyoushouldhaveaskirt...)

Step 6: Sewing the crotch seam

Now,takeyourtwopantlegs,andputtherightsidestogether,andsewthecrotchseamfromfrontto back,pinningthemtogethertobesurethattheinseamslineup. Hooray!Youhavepants!Almost,butcloseenoughtoputthemonandbeagoon!

Step 7: Ties and waistband

Fortheelasticwaistedband~ Cuttwo4"widestripsof45"widefabric,andsewthemtogethersoyouhaveonelongstrip.
45 45 4

Foldthisinhalfthelongwaythisisyourwaistband.

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

www.BeAnime.com

11

Sewing the Hakama

Pickonesideofyourhakamathisisnowyourfront.Startingattheseamatthecenterfront,pin yourwaistbandtothehakama,allthewayaround. Whenyouhittheotherseam(nowthecenterbackseam),leave theexcesshangingoff rightnow.Pintheother halfofthewaistbandon, andonceyouhitthe centerbackagain,leave theexcesshangingoff. Now,you'regoingtocut theexcessfabricoff, exceptforanextra1"or so.

Fromhereonin,thephotosthatgo alongwiththeinstructionsaredone withascrapoffabric,togetthepictures foryouall,asmyattemptatillustrating whatneededtobedonewasatotal failure. So,ifthepieceImworkingwithseems alittlesmall,comparedtowhatyoure workingwith,dontworry:DTheseare justtoshowyouthestepswithpictures.

Takethisextrainch,andfolditintothewaistband,justtocreateanice,finishededgeonthecasing. Pressitflat,soitlookspretty.

Sewthewaistbandtothehakama,withtheseamallowancefacingtotheinside(rightsidestogether), 1downfromthetop(remember,that1extraseamallowanceweaddedforthelength?Thatswhat thisisfor.)Finishtheinsideedgehoweveryouseefit(Ichoosetouseanoverlockonit).

Pressyourcasingagain,tomakeitlooknice.Feedtheelastic throughthiscasing,andseworpinclosed.Iusuallycuttheelastic 4"shorterthanyourwaistmeasurement,andleaveitjustpinned together,sothatmycustomerscanadjustitasneededwhen they'rewearingit,tomakeitmorecomfortableforthem. And!Youshouldbedone!Hooray!

(unlessyouweremakingthehakamawithties,thenyourinstructionsarenext)

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

www.BeAnime.com

12

Sewing the Hakama

Forthehakamawithties~ Forthistypeofhakama,you'regoingtowanttocuttwo4"wide stripsof45"widefabricalso,butdonotsewthemtogether. Instead,findthemiddleofeachoftheties,andmarkthemwitha pin.
Ifyouarealargerperson(withawaist ofmorethan38orso),youmayneed tomakethetieslonger,bycuttingmore 4widestrips,andsewingthem,edgeto edge,tocreatelongerties.(seeabove, withtheelasticwaistedhakama) Dontforgetthesetiesneedtogetall thewayaroundyourbody,andtieina knot,sotheyshouldbeatleast6longer thanyourwaistmeasurement.

Leavingthetiesopen(i.e.dontfoldtheminhalfyet,eitherway) matchthecenterpinwithyourcenterfrontorcenterbackseam. Stitchthetiesdowntothehakama,withrightsidestogether.

Stitchinglocationontheinside

andwhatitlookslikewiththetiefoldedup

Now,pressthewaistbandup,eventhepartsthat arentsewndown(theextratielengthwellbe finishingtheentiretieatonce!)(pic@right) Next,folddownthetoprawedge,matchingitto therawedgethatyoujustpressedup.Ironthat edgedown,soitlooksnice.(pic@bottom)

Fromhere,weregoingtofinishtheendsofthe ties,stitchitalldown,andweredone!So,just abitmoretogo

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

www.BeAnime.com

13

Sewing the Hakama

Tofinishtheendsoftheties(sotheylookprettyanddontfrayallovertheplacewhileyoure wearingthehakama)isaneasymatteratthispoint. Simplyfoldintherawendsoftheties,andtrimthecornerslikepictured,sothatnoneofthebulk pokesoutthebottomwhenwesewthisalltogether.And,usetheirontopressthoseedgesdown (youregettingtheideaofhowimportantironingis,arentyou?)intoacrispseam.
Irealizethatthesepicturesarealittlehardtosee,soIhaveoutlinedoverthemtohelpyouseetheedgesofthefabricbetter~

Youcanstitchtheedgedownifyouprefer,oryoucanjustleaveititshouldntcomepoppingout aftereverythingissewndown. Tofinishthiswholethingup,youregoingtowantto foldthetiesinhalfagain.Allofthoserawedgesshould beontheinside,encased.Thisisaneattrickfor finishingjustaboutanythingthatcanbeputonlike this,tokeeprawedgesfrombeingoutandvisible. Ifyouarenotcomfortablewithsewingwithoutusing pins,goaheadandpinthisclosed.Then,youregoing towanttotopstitchthewholetie,fromoneendtotheother,closed.Ifyounoticethatonelayerofthe fabriciscreeping,orcreatingpuckers,stop,grabyourseamripper,pulltheseamout,andusepins toholdthefabricinplace.Ifyoujustignoreit,andthinkyoucanfixitwithaniron,itsgoingtoget worseandworsealongthelengthofthetie.Noironingcanfixthisproblemagain,riptheseamout, anddoitagain,withpins,or,if youwereusingpins,addmore pins.Andmakesure,when yourepinningitdown,youre onaflatsurfaceandnot pullingonelayerortheother. Giveitonemoregoodpress, forgoodmeasure,and hooray!Youaremost definitelydonewithyour hakama! Putthemon,havesomefun, showeveryonetheawesome thingyoujustmade!
And,postsomepicturesonlineandletme see,too!(taeliac.deviantart.com)

2009TaeliacStudio Pleasedonotredistribute,edit,orclaimasyourown!DONOTSTEAL!

www.BeAnime.com