BATTLING FOR HANDBAG SPACE/2 FRANCHINI BULLISH ON BALLY/2

Womens Wear Daily The Retailers Daily Newspaper January 5, 2004 $2.00

WWDMONDAY
Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

Scaling the Heights

NEW YORK In Chinese astrology, 2004 may be the Year of the Monkey, but in some fashion circles, its the year of the snake. Accessories designers are using the slinky reptiles to decorate everything from bags to shoes and jewelry. Here, Ben Amuns goldplated brass and pewter necklace with Swarovski crystals. For more on the trend, slither over to pages 6 and 7.
PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT

Bailing Out: Cynthia Steffe Escapes LF Brands, Lands at Chaus

By Lisa Lockwood

NEW YORK Its a girl! Bernard Chaus Inc., the $140 million sportswear firm, is the proud new parent of Cynthia Steffe. Extricating itself just in time from

LF Brands, which went out of business Christmas week, Steffe was sold Friday to Chaus, a publicly held company, marking the apparel industrys first deal of the new year. The purchase price was

undisclosed, but industry sources estimated that Chaus paid LF Brands about $5 million for the Steffe business. LF Brands is expected to file for See Cynthia, Page 14

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Is There Room for All Those Bags?

By Melanie Kletter
NEW YORK Bags of bags. Competition for main-floor handbag space has become red hot these days, as all types of brands are eager to break into this often-lucrative category. Just as designer companies are chasing that ever-elusive hot bag, now more mainstream fashion companies are recognizing that a handbag offering can be vital to boosting or buttressing a brand. But the constant stream of new handbag lines, especially in the last year, poses the question: Is there room for all of these bags and are there names that dont belong in this category at all? There is only so much real estate on the floor, and now it has to be about having the best prod-

WWDMONDAY
Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

Nine West is facing ever more competition on the main floor.

uct and offering value, said Jackie Corso, who, as chief executive officer of Nine West Accessories, has one of the largest portfolios of handbag brands in the business. Consumers today are very savvy at every price point.

Vendors and retailers throughout the industry said the lowerand midpriced handbag segment, with retail prices in the range of about $50 to $500, remains a growth area and is well positioned for spring. Strong sellers this holiday season included Dooney & Bourkes It bag and handbags by Baby Phat and Fetish. Color and interesting uses of fabrics are giving an extra dose of energy to the category for the spring season, executives said. Nonetheless, there is finite space on store floors, and as more bigname brands enter and expand in this sector consider the growth Coach has had in recent years smaller or less-profitable firms are being squeezed out. At the same time, a constant complaint among consumers is Continued on page 12

GENERAL

6 2 2 1 5 2 4

FASHION: Instigated by Tom Fords celebrated Gucci snake dress, cuff and shoes, the serpentine revival is turning up in bags, belts and jewelry for spring. CIT Commercial Services, the nations largest factor, gobbled up another competitor when it acquired HSBC Banks domestic factoring assets. Bally is starting to see positive results from a turnaround being led by Marco Franchini, who took over as chairman and ceo in 2002. Cynthia Steffe on Friday escaped the sinking hulk of LF Brands, engineering a sale to Bernard Chaus Inc. Its former parent is expected to liquidate. BEAUTY BEAT: Lauder wants to change perceptions in Germany, where top brass recently came to Berlin to help break its skin care-only image. ACCESSORIES: Competition for main-floor handbag space has become red hot, as all types of brands look to break into the lucrative sector. EYE: Breaking bread with Sirio Maccioni, the legendary owner of Le Cirque, who now has four other restaurants and shows no signs of slowing down.

PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE

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CIT Commercial Buys Franchini Sees HSBC Factoring Unit Major Rebound
NEW YORK CIT Commercial Services, already the nations largest factor, rang in the new year by gobbling up yet another competitor in the consolidating factoring industry. The company, a division of Livingston, N.J.-based CIT Group Inc., said on New Years Eve day that it had fully acquired HSBC Banks domestic factoring assets, valued at about $1 billion before accounting for assumed liabilities. Net assets acquired totaled approximately $270 million, the firm said. Further terms of the acquisition were not disclosed. This transaction reflects CITs corporate strategy to pursue growth opportunities that are synergistic with our core business lines and meet our return on equity targets, CIT chief operating officer Jeffrey Peek said in a statement. HSBC and Capital Factors have been the subject of acquisition rumors for several months. Buzz surrounding CITs targeting of HSBC picked up steam among industry insiders after CIT acquired $446 million of GE Commercial Services domestic factoring assets in September. In business for 90 years, CIT touts itself as the oldest factoring firm in the U.S., handling an estimated $20 billion in annual volume. The firms clients range from small companies with $2 million in annual sales to publicly held corporations with $500 million in revenue. The majority have less than $10 million in annual sales. According to industr y observers, the HSBC acquisition will contribute about $7 billion in annual volume.

For Bally in 04
By Samantha Conti

Ross Tucker

LONDON Bally is beginning to bounce back. Next year will mark the start of a turnaround for the Swissbased accessories and ready-towear company, said Marco Franchini, who took over as chairman and chief executive of Bally in 2002. He said he has already begun to see the results of some major projects and it feels great. The first nine to 12 months were hard, because we were doing all of this work, and not seeing results, but that changed in the second half of 2003, and now were confident going forward, Franchini said in an exclusive interview at the headquarters here of Ballys parent, Texas Pacific Group. Although sales for 2003 $318.5 million, or 400 million Swiss francs are flat against the previous year, profit margins have improved. We had more full-price sales, fewer markdowns and a healthier year overall, said Franchini, who declined to give any profit figures. He added, however, that in 2004 the company would break even at the very least and may even turn a profit. The company had said in October 2002 that it expected to break even this year. Franchini said this years healthier margins were also because of an improved cost base. During the past year, Bally restructured its supply chain, which is now made up of three factories. One, in Caslano, Switzerland, oversees shoe production, a small factory in Florence deals with accessories and small leather goods, while a third, in the Marches region of Italy, follows the rtw collection. Currently, footwear generates 55 percent of sales, accessories make up 35 percent, and clothing accounts for the remaining 10 percent. Footwear was, is, and always will be our strength, Continued on page 11

MONDAY: New York Fall Apparel Market (through Jan. 16).

COMING THIS WEEK

THURSDAY: Retailers report on December same-store sales. International Leather Days, Istanbul (through Saturday). FRIDAY: The Labor Department releases the December employment report. SATURDAY: Surf Expo, Orlando, Fla. (through Jan. 12). Nouveau Collective Lifestyle Show, New York (through Jan. 13). Vicenza Oro jewelry show, Vicenza, Italy (through Jan. 18). SUNDAY: D&A Annex, Accessories The Show, Moda Manhattan, Industr y (212), Accessories Circuit. Childrens Club and Intermezzo Collections, New York (through Jan. 13). The International Lingerie Show, Orlando, Fla. (through Jan. 13). National Retail Federations Annual Convention and Expo, New York (through Jan. 14).

In Brief
REVVING THE ENGINE: Citing Revlon Corp.s and Rev Holdings Inc.s December report that management is exploring transactions to strengthen its balance sheet and to increase equity, Moodys Investors Service last week revised its outlook on the companies debts to developing from negative. In a statement, Moodys said the revision recognizes the uncertainty regarding the form, terms, magnitude, timing and execution of any potential capital restructuring. Although current ratings already reflect Revlons severe debt burden and challenged recovery prospects (particularly at the most junior debt classes), ratings still could be lowered if Revlon is unable to achieve earnings growth following implementation of its initiatives to accelerate growth, as Moodys would need to reevaluate Revlons enterprise value and the relative coverage of various debt classes. Moodys also affirmed its ratings on about $1.8 billion of the two entities various debts.

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4 X

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Sirios Circus

Maccioni at Le Cirque 2000 in 2003. Sirio Maccioni at Le Cirque in 1986.

NEW YORK We have 350 reservations tonight, Sirio Maccioni boasts, seating himself at one of Le Cirque 2000s prime tables as the lunchtime crowd thins. Celebrating 30 years this year, the legendary restaurant Maccioni, opened on East 65th Street with a $150,000 loan from the Chase Bank branch on East 64th, has grown beyond its Upper East Side roots. Maccionis empire now includes the revamped Le Cirque 2000, which opened on Madison Avenue in 1997 after the original closed, as well as Osterio de Circo in New York, Tre in Las Vegas and Le Cirque in Las Vegas and Le Cirque in Mexico City, all run by Maccioni and his sons, Mario, Marco and Mauro. And Le Cirques famous ringmaster shows no signs of slowing down. Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass were just two in the tony crowd that descended on Le Cirque during its fabled opening night in 1974, and the restaurant has drawn power players from Barbara Walters to Donald Trump, Imelda Marcos to Ronald Reagan and Henry Kissinger to Richard Nixon ever since. Besides a heartily haute menu and a fabulous crowd, Maccioni claims frivolity is the lure. People want to go to restaurants that are fun, he says simply. And according to Maccioni, for New Yorkers, nothing is as fun as wrestling a good table from the matre d. That was the mistake my friend, Ducasse, made, he notes, shaking his head at the unhurried dining policy in effect at Alain Ducasse on West 58th Street. He said, You can have the table for the evening, but people want to fight to have a table. Still, Maccioni believes in high-style dining. While most restaurants in town have eased dress code restrictions, at Le Cirque 2000, Maccioni has maintained a strict standard. Im one of the only restaurants that requires jacket and tie, he announces, before launching into a story about the time Dustin Hoffman wound a shoe lace around his neck in lieu of a tie and the night once-upon-a-time when an aggravated Frank Zappa donned a suit to dine there for the first time. Of course, if Maccionis rules are old school, he learned from the best while working as the matre d at New Yorks famously chic Colony restaurant. The Colony was the world, he sighs. It was a good restaurant with simple food, but it attracted a certain kind of people cafe society. Maccioni grew up in Tuscany, then served the jet set in Paris at ritzy spots like the Plaza Athene and Maxims before landing a job at the Colony in 1956. And better than any of his other stories, he loves to tell the tale of his first lunch shift there. My first day at the Colony and the phone rings the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, the usual table, he says, retelling his famous story in an abbreviated form. Then Frank Sinatra called, the usual table. Charles Revson, the usual table. Then Onassis, the usual table. Niarchos, the usual table. Truman Capote, the usual table. Cary Grant, the usual table. I was counting in my mind, thinking, How many tables do we have? Maccioni dutifully took the reservations. Then the owner told him that every caller had designs on the same table, the best one, the corner table. Sinatra arrived first and snagged the prize, while Maccioni shuffled the rest of the star guests, many fuming, to lesser locales. At 1:30, I thought, My god, I made it, he recalls. Then Cary Grant and Bill Baldwin came

Maccioni with his wife, Egidiana, in 1975.

eye

in. Exhausted, Maccioni led the pair to a private table behind a Japanese screen his last and told his assistant, a pretty boy named Franco, to look after them. After 15 minutes I heard screaming, he remembers. My assistant said, Theyre touching me behind the screen, and I said, Well, let them touch. We dont have any other tables! Many of the Colonys fabled clientele, including Jackie O and the Kennedy clan, followed when Maccioni struck out on his own to open Le Cirque, a restaurant catering to both the haute and the newly health conscious by serving broiled fish and salad. Sinatra became a frequent guest and left Maccioni with a note that read yes or no after every meal there to rate the experience. But while Maccioni found Sinatra and his reviews amusing, he has less tolerance for the reviewing staff at The New York Times, one of whom, he claims, once walked past a box of truffles and mistook them for moldy potatoes. The New York Times came in and took a star away, then the next year they gave it back, Maccioni sighs. When a reviewer has an ugly wife, he can never be very good. During the past three decades, Maccioni has basked in the glow of good reviews and stuck it out after suffering a bad one, all the while maintaining a love-hate relationship with the restaurant business. You go to bed at 2 a.m. and you get up at 7 to come here again at 9:30, he says. People say youre lucky, but we work 14-hour days. Maccioni tried to convince his three sons to seek their fortunes elsewhere, but they followed him into the business. I wanted doctors and lawyers, but they all sell soup. After World War II, Maccioni was one of the first Italians to return to Paris, where Yves Montand, who grew up on the same street in Tuscany, helped the teenager find his way. I was staying at his house, but I didnt realize how important he was, says Maccioni. Through Montand he landed a job at the Folies Bergere, frolicking onstage with the cast during the big finale. I was very skinny, so they put me in an Egyptian tunic, he remembers. Everybody was impressed, including the prima ballerina. She called me Italianito. Outside of the theater, however, life in France could be tough for an Italian kid on his own. The French were the allies, the Italians were the enemy, says Maccioni. In Paris, theyd say, Hes Italian, but hes very good. Yet, when it came time to open a place of his own, Maccioni chose a French name, Le Cirque. Some of my best friends are French, he shrugs. Then again, with its Italian owner, French name, worldly menu and splashy American decor, Le Cirque defies easy categorization. Le Cirque is a New York restaurant, Maccioni muses. It could not exist anywhere else.

Jessica Kerwin

MACCIONI 2003 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; 1986, 1975: WWD ARCHIVES

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Este Lauder Aims for New Image in Germany

BERLIN Este Lauder wants to change perceptions in Germany. On a recent four-city tour through Europe, Lauders top brass including the Este Lauder Cos. group president Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, who oversees the flagship brand, and Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, vice president of global advertising for the brand touched down in Berlin between stops in Paris, Milan and London. But, whereas the focus in the other cities was primarily on Lauder s new fragrance, Beyond Paradise, in Berlin, the objective was to help break the companys skin care-only image. We have to erase some older conceptions and preconceptions prevalent here about the brand, BousquetChavanne said. In Germany, especially, Este Lauder is known as a treatment house. But, if you look at the companys business worldwide, he noted, sales are more or less evenly split among fragrance, makeup and treatment. Lauder is now working to strengthen the brands two other pillars makeup and fragrance in the German market. Makeup is a particularly effective tool to communicate newness, Bousquet-Chavanne suggested. Indeed, according to Sonia Michon Flochlay, vice president and regional brand director in Germany, Lauder already has moved from number five to number three in the market. And were almost number two in sell-out. Its already happening, she said. omy, he said, has impacted consumer consumption in general, and the prestige beauty industry has had a few challenges. Obviously, a lot of retailers like Douglas are focusing more on mass than class, and its essential that they redirect their attitude. For Michon Flochlay, this problem dates back to the days after the fall of the Berlin Wall. When East Germany opened up, there was a rush to cosmet-

We have to erase some older conceptions and preconceptions prevalent here about the brand.
Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, Este Lauder Cos.

ics in the mass market. And our retailers, including perfumeries, opened to mass and didnt concentrate on pres-

tige. Now everybodys waking up to how important class is. She pointed to the First in Beauty club of high-end perfumeries founded last year. Theyre showing were special, and now more [perfumeries] want to enter that circle. Bousquet-Chavanne also sees light on the horizon. The good news, he said, is that Germany is bound to rebound. The country has gone through five difficult years, and the beauty business has been affected. Nevertheless, he predicted that in 2004, Europe, including Germany, will feel the benefit of a U.S. recovery and the euro -dollar parity problem will change.

Melissa Drier

BEAUTY BEAT
Pure Color is said to be the best-selling Lauder lipstick in Germany, but the company expects the global launch of Electric Intense Lip Crme in February to significantly push the category further. We dont have a major fragrance [business] here, Bousquet-Chavanne acknowledged. He said Pleasures did OK, but not as good as we wanted. But Beyond Paradise will be a substantial launch. Another important tool for Lauders German brand refocus will be at point-of-sale. Its vital for the Este Lauder brand that the new brand aesthetics come through at POS, BousquetChavanne stated. Lauder will unveil its new counter design at KaDeWe in Berlin in March or April 2004. Its the same generation of design as in Selfridges, and will be a beacon for the brand in Germany, Michon Flochlay commented. Were trying to put more money behind it with some really good events at POS in 10 cities or so, so that consumers dont just hear and read [about it], but can also touch the brand. On the drawing board: a surprise event for the Electric lipstick launch, as lipstick is an easy stopper for consumers, she said. Germany may still be one of the top 10 beauty markets in the world, according to BousquetChavanne, but its also one of the most challenging markets for prestige cosmetics. Its the market with the slowest growth rate from 1998 to 2003. The troubled German econ-

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WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Moo Roos crocodileand ostrich-embossed calfskin evening bags with Swarovski crystals.

Valentinos rayon satin rope belt with rhinestones.

Hiss Boom Bah!

NEW YORK Not since 1981, when Nastassja Kinski curled up with that python for Richard Avedon, has sporting a snake looked quite so good. The current serpentine revival started with Tom Fords celebrated Gucci snake dress, cuff and shoes for spring, and now the motif is playing an important role in the accessories market. Its turning up in bags, belts, sandals and jewelry.

Guccis crocodile purse with a crystal clasp.

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

B.B. Jaynes carnelian, wood, yellow jade and sterling silver necklace.

Resin and Swarovski crystal bracelets from Diana Broussard at Seed House. Rene Caovillas crystal-detailed leather shoe.
PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; FASHION ASSISTANT: DAVID YASSKY; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT

Kenneth Jay Lanes rhinestone necklace and goldplated, faux turquoise and rhinestone pin.

Roberto Cavallis leather and rhinestone belt.

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Innerwear Market Preview

Home Bodies
NEW YORK The seasons sweatshirt-and-pants combos have left the track and are warming up at home. Whether the palette is in rich earth tones or soft and pale, the accents are full of charm.
From left to right: Bill Blass Lifestyles cotton robe, cropped top and pants; Anne Lewins cotton velour jacket and pants; Nauticas cotton and polyester sweatshirt and pants with cotton T-shirt; Crabtree & Evelyns satinaccented cotton velour top and pants with pointelle trim; Josies ribbonfaced cotton velour jumpsuit.

Le Mystere is proud to support the American Heart Associations Go Red For Women campaign. Le Mystere will donate $2 from the sale of designated products sold from December 12, 2003 to February 29, 2004 to the American Heart Association, with a minimum donation of $200,000.

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

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10

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Innerwear Report

Caro Cuore Lands in U.S.

America, Europe and the Middle East, with prices ranging from $12.90 for cotton bikini underwear to $295.90 for CHICAGO Argentina-based lingerie retailer Caro Cuore the Moulin Rouge corset with tulle and French lace edgopened its first American retail outlet late last month at ing. At the Woodfield location, bras average $50 and the Woodfield Shopping Center in Schaumburg, Ill., a panties average $25. Pavia expects Caro Cuores fabrics and innovation will northwest Chicago suburb. Executives from the high-end lingerie company said the stand out from its American competitors. The main difference is the aeslaunch is part of a U.S. expansion thetic, he said. Were not necessarthat includes 2004 store openings ily a sexy product. We focus on freshplanned for Chicagos North Michness, sensuality, comfort and design. igan Avenue and sites in Los Angeles The idea behind this is to make a and Miami. womans inner beauty shine. Adolfo Drescher, Caro Cuore Rosita Drescher, founder and founder and president, said it was co-owner, said, Our designers try a big moment for the firm to introto create products that speak to a duce Caro Cuore to Chicagoland womans sense of inner beauty and and the United States. personal comfort. Gonzalo Pavia, managing direcIn turn, the company uses tulle, tor of U.S. operations, said the comlace, cotton and often a high perpany was looking for a city in middle centage of Lycra spandex for comAmerica to introduce its products. fort and better wear. The Caro Chicago is a very cosmopolitan and traditional city, Pavia Cuore bra, for example, contains 80 said. The demographics were percent nylon or Lycra and 20 pervery attractive to us. They are cent cotton. people who appreciate quality, The company plans to launch at innovation and style. least one product line, including Woodfield Shopping Center, in some limited editions such as Moulin particular, is Illinois top tourist Rouge, each month for the next six to destination, attracting more than seven months in its U.S. store. Caro A look from the Caro Cuore Web site. 27 million people. Cuores product line includes girls Caro Cuore, which boasts annual sales of $30 million, and womens underwear, lingerie, socks, slippers and stocksaid initial sales at its first 1,500-square-foot American ings, as well as womens sports apparel and mens underwear. store are better than expected, although specific sales The Woodfield store, located on the shopping centers estimates were not available. Of its annual sales, 80 per- ground level across from Marshall Fields, mirrors the cent is generated in Argentina, where the company is one modern look of other Caro Cuore retail outlets. White of the top-selling lingerie lines. built-in display cabinets with red accents line the walls, Meaning sweet heart in Italian, Caro Cuore operates showcasing products on hangers and below in the brands a total of 72 stores in 15 countries throughout South signature red boxes.

INTIMATE NOTES
BARRY ROSS EXPANDS: After a 25-year tenure in the textile and intimate apparel fields, Barry Ross has created Barry Ross Intimate Connection, a global resource company for intimate apparel manufacturers and retailers. Ross was formerly a partner in Sextet Fabrics Inc., a specialist of laces and fabrics for the intimate apparel market. He will continue to be based at the Sextet Fabrics offices at 30 West 54th Street in New York. In addition to his newly formed company, Ross will be a sales representative for the Sextet firm, as well as GH Lace and The Britex Group of Canada. My goal will be to provide both manufacturers and retailers with a global sourcing opportunity, said Ross, who is a veteran exhibitor of international trade shows, including the Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris and the Lyon, Mode City trade fair in Lyon, France. Ultimately, I plan to diversify throughout the intimate apparel supply chain and offer my customers a multiclient roster of products and services. PARIS LAUNCH: Amourette, a new designer lingerie label based in California, will be introduced at the Jan. 23-26 edition of the Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris. Designed by Katherine Harestad, the line will be exhibited in the Expression Dessous segment of the show, an area dedicated to innovative fashion collections. The collection will include a basics group consisting of lingerie and sleepwear in soft Modal in fashion colors, as well as a group of sheers in rich fall colors. The fashion collection will feature a combination of vintage looks in retro woven cotton prints and laces, items of Modal featuring corsetry detailing, and a Prima group of meshes and tulles interpreted into ballerina looks. There also will be a whimsical line of fancy pants of silk, leavers lace and tulle, and silk and lace underpinnings inspired by the Wild West, said Harestad.

By Beth Wilson

The Moore Company Textile Group

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11

Bally Tightens Its Act

Continued from page 2 said Franchini. He added there was double- digit growth in accessories for the fall 2003 season, while the strongest growth was in rtw. Franchini said he was pleased with Ballys current design team, headed by design directors Luca Ragonese and Melissa Maish, who replaced former creative director Scott Fellows at the end of 2002 after his three-year contract expired. Fellows tried to rejuvenate Bally by attracting a much younger, hipper clientele, but in the process some observers believed he alienated the brands traditional customers. The new nine-member design team will show its third collection in spring 2004. Franchini also said he was happy with the fall 2003 season, which generated a 37 percent year-on-year sales increase. Fall 2003 sales in Japan alone rose 57 percent. I think were now striking a balance between appealing both to our loyal Bally customer and to the younger, more styleconscious customer. Were speaking to a broader base now, and further improving the brand identity, he said. Ballys sales are currently split between retail and wholesale. Some 70 percent of wholesale sales comes from Asia and Japan, while the rest come from Europe and the U.S. Some 70 percent of retail sales comes from Europe, with the rest in the U.S. and Hong Kong. There are currently 115 directly operated Bally stores, and 104 franchises around the world. In the coming year, Bally will continue to roll out new stores and refurbish and expand existing units. In the second half of 2003, the company opened two freestanding Bally shoes. stores in Tokyo in Ginza and Roppongi one store in central Hong Kong and one 5,400-squarefoot unit in Munich. In 2004, the company will open units in Sydney, Shanghai, Seoul and Taiwan, and refurbish and expand another Hong Kong unit in Pacific Place. In addition, Bally plans to open six additional shops-in-shops in Japanese department stores. Franchini said Ballys new, in-store concept has been changed slightly and his team has managed to bring down cost levels. That means that we can confidently go ahead and refurbish our older stores. The company also plans to sign its first eyewear license early next year, with the goal of having the collection in stores for the spring 2005 season. But life isnt all rosy for Franchini, who is very concerned about the weak dollar and the strong euro. I see it as a worrying element. I was just in Florence and what I witnessed was totally depressing. There were no Americans. Businesses are crying, said Franchini. Because of the strong euro, we may be forced to lower our prices and reduce our margins which is a dramatic choice and one we havent made yet. Im curious to see what the other companies are going to do, he said. Franchini who joined Gucci in 1994, serving first as European retail director and then as general manager for Europe also weighed in on rumors surrounding his old boss, Domenico De Sole. Press reports in Europe have said De Sole may head to Bally once he leaves Gucci next year. TPG [Ballys parent] is a private equity investment fund, and they are going to look to exit Bally sooner or later. Who knows what will happen? I would love to work for De Sole again, he said. Sources inside Gucci, however, deny that De Sole is interested in taking over Bally. Franchini said he is upbeat about the long-term future of Bally, which has had a checkered history since TPG bought it in 1999, when Ballys sales were about $500 million. Last year, sources estimated TPG had invested $250 million in Ballys restructuring so far. I think the market is going to be increasingly split into two groups, said Franchini. There will be the top players Gucci, Dior, Herms and then there will be the more democratic luxury brands, which is where Bally has always fit in. What those brands have to do is increasingly deliver good value at good prices, and focus on the product itself rather than on the designer as personality. Bally tries to do all that every day.

Marco Franchini

A trench from Bally. A six-pocket yellow tote from Bally.

EUROPE WATCH
SALES PITCH: Spurred on by reductions, consumers are finally making their move in the U.K., offsetting the sluggish pace of retail in recent months. Stores and retail traffic monitors reported record footfall during Christmas week and the postChristmas sales. According to FootFall, the retail monitor, the

number of people out shopping from Dec. 22 to Dec. 28 was up 0.2 percent on the same week last year. FootFall spokesman David Smyth explained: The retailers held off the sales until the last minute knowing that consumers were going to make their decisions later than ever. We believe that this is evidence that the consumer has decided to change the purchasing cycle at Christmas, and retailers are reacting to this change. Spokesmen from major U.K. stores bore out this view. Selfridges opened its doors for the first time on Dec. 26, called Boxing Day, a national holiday in Great Britain when stores generally have been closed. Selfridges reported footfall of around

100,000 people at its stores, with more than 10,000 transactions made in the first hour. Harrods and Harvey Nichols also began their sales this week, with a Harrods spokesman saying the store took in excess of $10.8 million on the sales first day, and that about 250,000 customers have visited the store so far. A spokeswoman for Harvey Nichols described the sales period as being much busier than the previous year, saying, London is usually quiet at this time of year, but we have been very busy this week, especially in our main designer department. We are seeing discerning shoppers coming in for specific items that have been reduced, rather than just browsing. Nina Jones

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WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Accessories Report

Battle of Main-Floo
Continued from page 2 that many department stores look similar and offer the same product assortment. Danny Friedman, whose company, Daniel M. Friedman & Associates, has been actively building up its handbag division in the last year by producing licensed lines for such brands as JLo and UnionBay, noted that firms working with department stores now have to provide more than just the right product. Its really difficult to be a small supplier these days, Friedman said. Y cannot be in ou any business now unless you support that business with markdown money. Nonetheless, Friedman is bullish on JLo handbags, which he said is launching in about 400 doors for spring. Industry observers estimate that the main-floor department store handbag business is at least a billion-dollar business at retail and often accounts for the biggest chunk of space on the floor. Among the big-name newcomers now gobbling up handbag floor space are Ellen Tracy and Sigrid Olsen, both made by Liz Claiborne Inc.; singer Gwen Stefanis L.A.M.B. line, which is produced under a partnership with LeSportsac, and Bandolino, a division of Jones Apparel Group. For spring, other brands hitting store floors include Elliott Lucca, started by the owners of The Sak; Echo Design Group, which is best known for its scarf offerings; the Fetish brand from the singer Eve, Baby Phat and the new JLo line. Nautica, now a division of VF Corp., is also stepping up its handbag offerings for spring. Apparel giants Liz Claiborne and Jones Apparel Group now have a dominant position in main-floor handbags, and collectively account for at least 20 percent of department store floor space, according to industry executives. In recent years, the behemoths have increased their accessories offerings through acquisitions and by rolling out their existing apparel brands into additional categories. Claiborne, in the last year, has introduced handbags for its Lucky Brands, Sigrid Olsen and Ellen Tracy divisions, and this spring, its Juicy Couture unit will unveil handbags. The company also makes bags for its Liz Claiborne and Liz & Co. division, and there is always the possibility it will extend some of its other brands into accessories such as Laundry or Dana Buchman. Jones now makes bags for many of its company-owned brands, including Nine West, Jones New York, Nine & Co. and most recently, Gloria Vanderbilt, Bandolino and Anne Klein, which has been taken in-house and will be relaunched this year. The Anne Klein business was recently purchased by Jones when that company acquired its parent firm, Kasper A.S.L. Jones also makes Esprit handbags under license. While many brands are jumping into the segment, there are numerous labels that didnt succeed in the field, especially ones that started out in other categories. Judith Jack, now a division of Jones, made evening bags for about seven years until that division closed last year. Judith Jack is a mainstay brand in costume jewelry and is best known for its use of marcasite. There are companies who should stick to their core, said Nathalie Martin Schettini, who used to run Judith Jacks handbag division and now has her own consulting business and showroom. People are trying to diversify in every way possible. Now its all about the

Bandolino, made by Jones Apparel Group, is a newcomer in handbags.

JLo by Jennifer Lopez handbags will hit store floors this spring.

Fossil has become an important handbag resource at department stores.

WATCHES

FASHION

QUALITY

Licensing opportunities available 7 West Accessories, Inc. 392 Fifth Avenue, Suite 711 New York, NY 10018 212-695-4002 Email sevenwest@aol.com www.vernierwatches.com

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

13

Ellen Tracy handbags, made by Liz Claiborne, launched at retail last fall.
numbers. But if you dont have a niche or fill a void, you are going to fail. I really believe there are people who should stick to their core. While there is constant pressure for publicly held firms such as Liz and Jones to continue growing and expanding, Corso said some of the brands Jones operates in its Victoria & Co. division dont lend themselves to handbags. Napier, which specializes in jewelry, is one Jones brand that likely wont be extended into handbags, she noted. Jones doesnt break out sales of its handbag division, but accessories are a huge business for the firm, with wholesale footwear and accessories combined revenues of $711 million in the nine months ended Oct. 4. Corso also noted that Jones is taking a number of steps to deal with an increasingly competitive selling environment. For example, Nine West handbags has dramatically lower inventories this year, she noted, and all areas of the business are focused on offering more value by providing something extra, such as flip-flops or cosmetic cases with many of its bags. Although the business is dominated by giants, some smaller companies are managing to eke out more space. Fossil, best known for its watches, introduced handbags in 1996, and the line has become a key resource at chains such as Macys, Burdines, Lord & Taylor and Dillards. The company also sells handbags for its Relic division at mass and moderate stores, including J.C. Penneys, Sears and Kohls. Gail Stoke, Fossils vice president and sales manager for handbags, declined to give sales figures for the handbags, but said the division has had double-digit growth and now accounts for more than 10 percent of the companys overall sales, which were $522 million for the nine months ended Oct. 4. This has become a very important product category for us, Stoke said. It has become the biggest product category outside of watches. Stoke noted that the company has worked to maintain Fossil as a fullprice business amid the promotional party that the main floor has become. Ed Bucciarelli, who oversees the accessories division at Liz Claiborne, acknowledged that the handbag arena is bursting with new names these days, but said his firm feels strongly that there is space for more. There is always room for newcomers if its done well, he noted. I think customers who have brand loyalty in apparel are looking to complete that lifestyle with accessories. Stores are realizing they want to provide a complete package for consumers and where an apparel brand is important for them, they would like to complete that with accessories. Lavelle Olexa, senior vice president of fashion merchandising at L&T, said she is optimistic about handbag sales for spring and echoed Bucciarellis sensibility. There is room for newcomers who have a distinct look, she said. We are always looking for newness and interesting items. Heidi Cohen, a buyer at Henri Bendel, said she has been trying to get away from bag lines that have wide distribution and is focusing on new designers, especially foreign lines that have limited distribution in the U.S. Nonetheless, Bendel is carrying the Juicy handbag line, since that label has a strong business at the store in apparel. Its so important to keep customers excited, she said. The problem with handbags is that every store is starting to look the same. We feel strongly about having things that are different from other stores.

PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE

SHOPPING WITH FRIENDS: On Crosby Street in Manhattan, its a case of friendly retailing. Jeweler Rebecca Norman teamed up with her friend, apparel designer Ash Francomb, and the duo recently opened a boutique there to display their wares. The West Coast pair met at a trade show three years ago and immediately clicked, but the idea for a store came only recently when Francomb was visiting New York. She saw that a space was available on Crosby Street and immediately called her friend. The boutique, the first for both designers, offers Normans silver designs neatly displayed in three white cases alongside Francombs T-shirts and other clothing items. The space features recessed lighting, dark wood floors and original brick walls a suitable backdrop for Normans jewelry, which has an artisanal feel with circle, square and swirl shapes featured in earrings, necklaces and bracelets. Prices for the jewelry start at $90 for a pair of silver hoops and go as high as $350 for a silver necklace with jade or rough topaz. Norman, who started her business in 1995, is also launching fine jewelry in the boutique, featuring 18-karat gold pieces with moonstones, rubies, hessonite garnets and sapphires, from $350 to $4,000. Combined first-year projection is $300,000. I am looking to open a store in L.A., probably in the third or fourth quarter, and would like to continue with this collaboration, said Norman.

OBJECTS OF ADORNMENT
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or Bags

FINDINGS

JENNYZ WORLD: It would seem that Jennifer Oz LeRoy, daughter of famed Jennifer restaurateur Warner Oz LeRoy LeRoy, would have her in a hands full running the jacket of venerable Manhattan her own restaurant Tavern on design. the Green. At 24, LeRoy took over managing the restaurant business two years ago after the death of her father. But, the hands-on entrepreneur has plans that go far beyond food. LeRoy has just launched her fashion firm, JennyZ, with a line of Swarovski crystal-studded accessories, and she plans to branch into other categories, including Tshirts and sportswear. I started studding as a hobby and I am giving this business a shot, said LeRoy, who is a fan of vintage Gucci, as well as Marc Jacobs. Her collection includes a wide range of studded items, including tool kits and piggy banks, as well as Post-It holders, cell phone cases, belts, lighters and lipstick cases. Denim jackets are studded and embroidered with flowers and butterflies. LeRoy, a competitive horse rider, even has studded horse brushes and riding helmets. Wholesale prices for the items range from about $30 for a key chain to $600 for a riding helmet, and the items are already available at Tavern on the Greens gift shop, as well as Zitomers on Manhattans Upper East Side. LeRoys spacious office is a mishmash of her two careers. A sewing machine and books on pattern techniques sit alongside restaurant construction plans, and she seems to move easily between the two worlds. I work on both businesses every day, said LeRoy. You dont have to be creative in just one area.

The new Rebecca Norman and Ash Francomb boutique on Crosby Street.

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WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Cynthia Steffe Sold to

Continued from page one bankruptcy protection this week. According to sources it is not clear if the company will file Chapter 7 or 11, but either way it is expected to liquidate. Were really pleased, said Richard Roberts, president of Steffe, a contemporary sportswear firm whose volume is approaching $20 million. Weve been working on it for six months, ever since we decided LF Brands wasnt going to be a long-term partner. Financo [the investment banking firm] was shopping the business for us. Roberts, who is married to Steffe, said they spoke to many companies all over the world before making their decision. What we liked about Chaus was it wasnt one of the biggest companies. We didnt want to bury ourselves inside one of the big three or four. Thats a dangerous thing, he said. Were not a company that wants to be homogenized. Were very product driven and design driven, and most big American corporations arent design driven. Big American companies are merchandise driven. Weve got a big, expensive design room and were still a domestic maker. Josephine Chaus, chairwoman and chief executive officer of Chaus, said the Steffe acquisition gives the company a foothold in the contemporary arena. Its a very exciting marketplace and Cynthia is a very talented designer. We look to expand the business and grow it to new levels. It brings us into a new category, said Chaus, whose businesses are mostly in the moderate sportswear area of department stores and specialty retailers. Steffe, which has had slow and steady growth since it was launched in 1989, in 2000 became a division of LF Brands then known as Leslie Fay Cos. At the time, there were big plans to take Steffe global and launch new divisions, such as accessories and denim. Steffe sale frees up the process to dispose of LF Brands various assets. It is expected that LF Brands will retain Financo to explore the sale of the companys trademarks and brands. Harrison said a number of companies have already expressed interest in the properties. Its unfortunate what happened to LF Brands. The casualty is enormous and it had fallen on hard times. Obviously working capital at LF Brands had to go into its major businesses, and Cynthia Steffe had been starved for capital and couldnt continue their growth. Harrison said hes been advising Chaus on growth strategy, and has been working with DiPaolo and Chaus as they have turned around their company over the past two years. They made a lot of money, but had fallen on hard times, and thankfully its going to get bigger now, he said. Josephine Chaus said she plans to give Roberts and Steffe the freedom to manage their business. She said she will serve as a sounding board, and will offer assistance and input when needed. Cynthia brings the talent, and it will run as it has been running, Chaus said. We have the expertise in manufacturing and the back end of the business. Were very experienced in making ladies apparel and we have the sourcing and manufacturing base. Its a very good combination of talent and resources. We can all work together both companies and the management teams. That should suit Roberts, who has been running Steffe at LF Brands with little interference. We operated autonomously and that was the beauty of what we did here, said Roberts. We only used Leslie Fays financing and warehousing. Design, merchandising, sales and production were handled independently. Employing 35 people, Steffe produces most of its sportswear in New Y ork, with a portion overseas. Its biggest customers are Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus, with speciality stores such as Tootsies and Fred Segal among the other 1,000 retail locations where its products are sold. The companys showroom will remain at 550 Seventh Avenue. Its been difficult with whats been happening with Leslie Fay. It made our jobs [to close the deal] difficult because the finance and record-keeping people are no longer there, said Roberts. Steffe currently doesnt have any licensees, but Roberts asserted, were constantly barraged with offers for licensees. Roberts said that with Chaus financial backing, he hopes to offer more casual sportswear, which stores have requested, and plans to add licensed products. He would also like to open a freestanding store in the near future. The company currently produces two lines, Cynthia Steffe, a more expensive line, and Cynthia Cynthia Steffe. The business has been going great guns, he said. Our spring bookings were up 70 percent and well do over $20 million this year. Chaus, which was founded in 1976 and went public in 1985, makes sportswear under the Josephine Chaus Collection, Josephine Chaus Studio, and Josephine Chaus Sport trademarks. In December 2002, Chaus acquired S.L. Danielle, a privately held manufacturer of moderately priced womens brands. The acquisition provided Chaus with new capabilities in the private label arena and created a platform for expansion into the moderate segment of the womens clothing market. Chaus previous experience as the licensee for Nautica womens wear wasnt too successful. That was a long time ago, said Chaus. Roberts and Steffe previously worked

A white dress from Cynthia Steffes spring 2004 runway show.

Cynthia Steffe
According to Gilbert Harrison, chairman of Financo Inc., who brokered the deal, Cynthia Steffe has been hampered because of the financial problems at Leslie Fay. They couldnt get the working capital to build this business. Harrison noted that he spoke to a lot of potential buyers, but the chemistry between Josephine Chaus and Cynthia Steffe, as well as Rick Roberts and Nick DiPaolo [Chaus vice chairman and chief operating officer] was extremely good. They [Roberts and Steffe] felt they wanted to be part of the Chaus family. Cynthia is a designer, Josephine is a designer, and it brings Chaus into upscale specialty stores, and the sourcing at Chaus is very good. In addition, Harrison added that the

with DiPaolo, so felt very comfortable teaming up with Chaus. Weve known Nick for a long time. He worked for us as a consultant. I also knew Nick when he was ceo of Salant, and my dad [Bruce Roberts, executive director of the Textile Distributors Association] was on the board of Salant, Roberts said. Nick has done a great job at Chaus and returning it to a high profile and profitable business in the industry. When asked, Roberts said he wasnt worried about Chaus lack of expertise in the contemporary market. They dont need the experience. We have the experience. Theyre going to let

us run an autonomous business. They can supply financial support. The most important thing is the people. We really liked the top people, said Roberts. They have the support, [information systems] and the financial stuff and a network of offices around the world.We liked [LF Brands chairman] John Pomerantz, but unfortunately LF Brands business fell apart around him. Time passes brands by. Roberts said that by this morning all of Steffes merchandise will be in Chaus warehouse, all with bank approval. Roberts said the effective collapse of LF Brands prompted Steffe to speed up the acquisition process.

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

15

o Bernard Chaus
This was going to happen anyway, but it pressed us to move a little bit faster, he said. Roberts admitted that LF Brands troubled circumstances likely affected the sale price, saying, In sunnier times for LF Brands, they would have gotten a better price for it. In its most recent fiscal year, ended June 30, Chaus had net income of $4.7 million, compared with a net loss of $2.2 million the previous year. Revenues for fiscal 2003 were $140 million, down from $145.8 million a year earlier. The closing of the deal lifts the Steffe business out of the LF Brands portfolio at a troubled time for that company. LF Brands fired all the employees in its Laflin, Pa., plant on Dec. 19 and on Christmas Eve a voice mail message was left on the number of its chief restructuring officer, Marvin Davis, informing its New York employees that they were terminated. LF Brands, whose volume had fallen to about $120 million, said it was unable to pay the employees, totalling about 150 at both locations, and advised them to file for unemployment benefits. The method and timing of the closure set off a storm of criticism from LFs former employees, with one calling the move a sad portrayal of Seventh Avenue. Executives from Three Cities Research, a private investment firm which owns about 75 percent of LF Brands, have declined com-

WWD
The retailers daily newspaper Published by Fairchild Publications Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. 7 W. 34th St., New York, N.Y. 10001 EDWARD NARDOZA, VP Editor in Chief , PETE BORN, VP Associate Publisher , BRIDGET FOLEY, VP Executive Editor , JAMES FALLON, Editor DIANNE M. POGODA, Managing Editor LISA LOCKWOOD, News Director DAVID MOIN, Senior Editor, Retail ARTHUR FRIEDMAN, Senior Editor, Markets ARNOLD J. KARR, Senior Editor, Financial JOE ZEE, Fashion Director LORNA KOSKI, Associate Editor GABE DOPPELT, Entertainment Editor MILES SOCHA, Bureau Chief, Paris SAMANTHA CONTI, Bureau Chief, London ALESSANDRA ILARI, Bureau Chief, Milan ROSE APODACA JONES, Bureau Chief, Los Angeles BOBBI QUEEN, Associate Fashion Editor JENNY B. FINE, Associate Editor VALERIE SECKLER, Marketing Editor, Statistics ERIC WILSON, Associate Sportswear Editor, Designer SCOTT MALONE, Associate Sportswear Editor, Denim, Textiles AGNES CAMMOCK, Senior Market Editor JESSICA KERWIN, Senior Editor, Eye SHARON EDELSON, Senior Editor, Research JULIE NAUGHTON, Prestige Market Beauty Editor LAURA KLEPACKI, Mass Market Beauty Editor NANDINI DSOUZA, Fashion Features Editor EDMUND J. LEE, Fashion Features Editor MARSHALL HEYMAN, Eye Editor LIBBY ESTELL, Associate Sections Editor JENNIFER HIRSHLAG, Associate Sections Editor ANAMARIA WILSON, Associate Retail Editor ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT, Senior Accessories Editor MEENAL MISTRY, Fashion News Editor ETTA FROIO, Senior Executive Editor JOHN B. FAIRCHILD, Editor at Large MARKET EDITORS Accessories: Melanie Kletter, Marc Karimzadeh (News), and Julia Topolski (Fashion); Beauty: Matthew W. Evans, Andrea M.G. Nagel, Kristin Finn; Furs: Bobbi Queen; Innerwear/Bodywear: Karyn Monget; Legwear: Marc Karimzadeh; Activewear, Outerwear: Rosemary Feitelberg; Ready-to-Wear and Sportswear News: Julee Greenberg, Evan Clark; Ready-to-Wear and Sportswear Fashion: Brooke Magnaghi, Kim Friday, Antonia Sardone; Textiles: Daniela Gilbert (Fashion); Media/Advertising: Jacob Bernstein, Greg Lindsay CORRESPONDENTS Atlanta: Georgia Lee (Bureau Chief); Dallas: Holly Haber (Bureau Chief), Rusty Williamson; Milan: Luisa Zargani, Amanda Kaiser, Courtney Colavita; Valeria Ghio (Editorial Manager); Los Angeles: Kristin Young, Nola Sarkisian-Miller, Jeannie Chen (Fashion), Marcy Medina (Associate Entertainment Editor); New York: William Cotto; Dan Burrows, Jennifer Weitzman, Ross Tucker, Vicki M. Young (Financial Reporters); Norah Zis (Bookings Editor); Paris: Robert Murphy (Retail and Fashion News Editor), Jennifer Weil (Beauty), Brid Costello (Beauty); Boston: Katherine Bowers; Washington: Joanna Ramey (Bureau Chief) and Kristi Ellis LAYOUT/COPYDESK STEVEN HILLMAN, Copy Chief PETER SADERA, Deputy Copy Chief Lisa Kelly, Doug Hennemeyer, Maureen Morrison, Deborah Boylan (Copy Editors) ART DEPARTMENT EDWARD LEIDA, Executive VP Group Design Director , JEAN GRIFFIN, VP Group Design Director , ANDREW FLYNN, Art Director ANTONIO AGUIAR, Associate Art Director KIM SVITIC, Assistant Art Director Designers: Emilio Marin, Kara Hasson, Amy LoMacchio MELISSA COMITO, Photo Editor JENNIFER BIKEL, Photo Assistant ANITA BETHEL, Photo and Imaging Director PHOTOGRAPHERS New York: John Aquino, Talaya Centeno, George Chinsee, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Thomas Iannaccone, Robert Mitra, David Turner

we liked Whatone of theabout Chaus was it wasnt biggest companies. We didnt want to bury ourselves inside one of the big three or four. Thats a dangerous thing.

Richard Roberts, Cynthia Steffe

ment on the closure. But many questions remain unanswered, including what will happen with LF Brands spring merchandise. Reached for comment last week, Pomerantz told WWD that he felt terrible about what happened to the company, and especially what had happened to the employees. Ill do everything in my power to help them get the benefits, he said. He said he was also terminated from the company, but will consult with them going forward. He continues to own about 6 percent of the firm. The pity is it would have been a really great year next year. The spring season was going to be great. Stores had been very supportive, he said. He declined to discuss what precipitated all the problems and the companys abrupt closure. Rick Darling, president of Li & Fung U.S.A., the companys sourcing agent and largest creditor, said that 60 percent of LF Brands spring merchandise is currently en route from overseas. There are a tremendous amount of goods on the water and in Customs. LF Brands cant pay for and accept them. We have significant exposure to that inventory, since we act as the agent, said Darling. He said one option would be for LF Brands and its lenders to reach an agreement to ship the merchandise to customers, but Li & Fung isnt in control of that decision. However, it is discussing the possibility of taking possession of the merchandise and shipping it itself. Hong Kong-based Li & Fung, the $4.2 billion global sourcing and supply chain management company, was retained in 2002 to handle Leslie Fays fabric and manufacturing sourcing worldwide. It handled 65 percent of LF Brands sourcing half of its sportswear business, and two-thirds of its dress business, said Darling. He said all the dresses for January and February have been shipped, and March deliveries are in the process of being shipped. Its a sizeable amount of inventory, he said. The merchandise bears the Joan Leslie, Joan Leslie Classics, Leslie Fay Sport and Leslie Fay Dresses labels. He pointed out that other sportswear and dress vendors have also shipped merchandise for LF Brands from overseas. Since 2002, Li & Fung has had a global team of more than 80 people working on the LF Brands account in such countries as Hong Kong, The Philippines, Indonesia, China, Thailand and India, as well as Central America, said Darling. Li & Fung is LF Brands largest secured and unsecured creditor, said Darling. While it does not hold an equity stake in LF Brands, in early October, it gave the firm financial support through a loan facility and received warrants, he said. Three Cities Research and management owns the rest of the stock, he said. Were disappointed and dismayed. Weve been the companys largest creditor in purchase order financing, and we have loans with the company, Darling said. We have been very actively trying to support the company. Darling said LF Brands has a history of financial issues and had been losing money over the past couple of years, with serious losses over the past six to 12 months. They attempted over the last 18 months to restructure the company. The restructuring may have taken too long or it was too little too late. The bank made a decision in their best interest, he added, referring to LF Brands banker CIT. Among some of LF Brands recent

A minidress from Cynthia Steffes win at the Dallas Fashion Awards.

initiatives were trying to sell the Steffe business and doing an exclusive deal with Saks Inc. for the Breckenridge line. As of Wednesday, Darling said no bankruptcy filings have been made, but he believes LF Brands will most likely file shortly. Some LF Brands employees blamed Li & Fung for the demise of the firm, though Darling asserted that anger is misdirected. Were trying to figure out what to do, he said. We will be the companys largest creditor by far. Its clearly against our interests to have this happen. Whether LF Brands could re-emerge as a new entity, Darling said, I think given the employee situation and potential disruption of the pipeline, it would be difficult for the company to operate in anything close to its current format. At this stage were concerned about the current position as a creditor and what theyre doing about employees. Would Li & Fung consider stepping in to help the employees? I dont have a resolution. Certainly Id like to see the situation resolved, he said. Its a question of ownership as well as lenders to make that determination. Was he surprised that LF Brands closed up shop so suddenly? I was not surprised the company hit the wall, as it was moving in that direction, he said. I was surprised by the conclusion that took place.

EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI, President, WWDMediaWorldWide RALPH ERARDY, Senior VP Group Publisher , SARAH MURPHY, Publisher, Beauty Biz MELISSA POST, Associate Publisher, Designer JOEL FERTEL, Associate Publisher, Innerwear/Legwear/Textiles DALE REICH, Fashion Director VANESSA MAHLAB, Associate Publisher, Sportswear ALIX MICHEL, Associate Publisher, Accessories TIA POTTER, Associate Publisher, Technology RANDI SEGAL, Mass Beauty Director GUS FLORIS, Fashion Manager TRACY HUPP Account Manager , DEBBIE HARTSTEIN, Account Executive SUSAN KILKENNY, Account Manager, Fine Jewelry SUSAN SMITH, Regional Advertising Director MAURICE CORKY NEWMAN, Associate Publisher, Junior/Denim/Textiles KARA LEVY, West Coast Account Executive Paris: ELIZABETH HAYNES, European Advertising Director Milan: ELENA DEGIULI, ENRICA MANELLI, Account Executives HAROLD ITZKOWITZ, Group Publisher, Classified Advertising VALERIE MORRIS, VP Manufacturing and Distribution , CRISTINA TAVARES, Production Director MICHELE LEUNG, Production Manager WENDY FRANK, Circulation Director ANDREA KAPLAN, VP Corporate Communications , FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS INC. MARY G. BERNER, President, CEO PATRICK McCARTHY, Chairman, Editorial Director ROBERT A. SAUERBERG JR., Chief Operating Officer EDWARD J. MENICHESCHI, President, Womens Wear Daily MediaWorldWide EDWARD NARDOZA, VP Associate Editorial Director , EILEEN CROSS, VP Human Resources/General Services , MIKE DeBARTOLO, Executive VP B2B Division , ALYCE ALSTON, VP Publisher , EVA DILLON, VP Publisher , WILLIAM WACKERMANN, VP Publisher , ELIZABETH TIGHE,VP General Manager, Fairchild Summits , PAUL WHITE, VP Senior Business Manager , TO DIAL DEPTS. DIRECT AREA CODE 212 News: 630-3500 Fashion: 630-3520 Display Advertising: 630-4600 Classified Advertising: 630-4610 Editorial Reprints: 221-9595 Individual Subscriptions: 800-289-0273 Group Subscriptions: 212-630-4196 Subscription orders can be faxed to 818-487-4550; Production: 630-4475 FAIRCHILD OFFICES ATLANTA 30329: 57 Executive Park So., NE, Suite 120, (404) 633-8461. CHICAGO 60611: 875 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1410, (312) 649-6539. DALLAS 75207: 2730 Stemmons Fwy., Suite 211, (214) 630-5461. LONDON WC2: 20 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AU, (44207) 240-0420. LOS ANGELES 90048: 6300 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 720 (323) 951-1800. MILAN 20121: 2 Piazza Cavour, (3902) 760-06283. PARIS 75008: 9 Rue Royale, (331) 4451-1300. WASHINGTON 20045: 529 14th Street N.W., Suite 954 (202) 662-8827.

16

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Turkish Designers Seek

By Suna Erdem
ISTANBUL The green satin mini is part combat, part schoolgirlish gym pleats with a diagonal seam separating the two ideas. Hanging further down the rack, a pale pink sleeveless top is beautifully shaped with a neat set of pleats fanning down from razor-sharp darts. A series of skirts and jackets is given texture and structure by unfinished strips of material sewn in chevron zigzags on all or part of the garments. Established in a pristine white boutique-office just down the road from Armani and Gucci in Istanbuls smart Tesvikiye district, Turkish designer Hakan Yildirims ready-to-wear and couture collections make little play of his nationality. They are original, sometimes conceptual, and as far from Asian influence as any New York designer might be. Yildirim is one of a new breed of Turkish fashion designers trying to break the countrys image as a haven for copycat tailors, derivative, mass market production and ethnic curiosities. Ever since Ive been aware of my own existence I think Ive wanted to be a fashion designer, he says, fiddling with the white bandeau wound around his head. Its not easy in Turkey. Were the first generation and in general, people havent really understood the meaning of the word design yet. But good clothes can be made in a language that everyone understands. Avant-garde designer Umit Unal agrees. He might use Turkish villagers colorful flowery prints in combination with high-tech Swiss taffeta, but he has a horror of being seen as an ethnic clich. I dont like traditionalism, he says with energy. I dont want someone to see my collections and say Ah, theres a Turkish designer who has taken his ideas from Anatolia. I source materials here and my culture is here but what I do is my own. Borders dont affect me. The 32-year-old Unals atelier in the trendy bohemian district of Tunel here bears this out. It is like a scene from the backstage of a European opera rack after rack of what look like theatrical costumes, props littering the floor and sweet music wafting out over the Mittel European-style arcade and cafe below. His creations, based on themes as varied as the journeys of Chinese peasant musicians to gypsy migrations and the Himalayas, may owe much to

An Arzu Kaprol outfit.

Ozlem Suers designs. Arzu Kaprol

The Turkish fashion industry is developing and everyone is working with

great sacrifice to make this so. Twenty years ago a Turkish designer would not know what to do if he or she went to Paris. Now we have a support system.
Suleyman Orakcioglu, IHKIB
Anatolian cloth, but could have been conceived anywhere in the world, in any time. His offbeat designs already are being sold in boutiques internationally alongside avant-garde names such as Yohji Yamamoto and Martine Sitbon and, asked about his typical customer, he muses that she would be the bohemian type like the late French sculptress Camille Claudel. As a group, I see Turks like the Japanese, the Belgians or the British, he says, in the fast-paced patter of a true enthusiast. We are pretty avant-garde, really, and we have talent, a strong past, geography and emotional color what we dont have, so far, is a proper system in which to operate. That is changing, albeit slowly. Trained in Turkey but for the past few years exhibiting at CPD in Dsseldorf, Germany, and distributing internationally, these designers have ambitions of turning Made in Turkey a term once so low-end that it would not even be sewn onto garments made here into a marque of quality and respect. And industry bigwigs are finally beginning to understand the importance of these pioneering, creative minds. The emergence of Turkish design talent is no accident, and was born largely of the need to reshape the countrys huge textile industry in the face of cheaper competition from Asia. The textiles export body, ITKIB, has been helping the process, encouraging firms to appoint creative talent in a bid to go upmarket, helping stage-manage designers forays abroad and sponsoring a young designers competition for the past 12 years. Turkey has reached world standard now in almost every aspect of fashion, said Suleyman Orakcioglu, head of IHKIB, the apparel organization that effectively makes up the majority of ITKIBs membership. He points out that the textiles scene has changed immeasurably in the past two decades, starting with the explosion of contract work by cheap-labor ateliers, through attempts to capture business from upmarket Western brands with a better manufacturing infrastructure to now, when Turkish companies are taking their first steps toward international branding. The Turkish fashion industry is developing and everyone is working with great sacrifice to make this so, he continues. Twenty years ago a Turkish designer would not know what to do if he or she went to Paris. Now we have a support system. Umut Oran, head of the export group IAF, said Turkish rtw exports last year were about $11.5 billion. The 2003 numbers are expected to show an increase, especially since rtw exports from

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

17

king Global Recognition

An Ozlem Suer design.
Turkey in October alone were more than $1 billion, a rise of 35 percent over October 2002. But only a tiny proportion of the overall figure would be Turkish designer apparel, with the vast bulk of exports in lower-priced, mass-produced garments. This is the challenge facing Turkish designers as they try to raise their international profiles. This year Turkey had its first home-grown designer taking the stage at New York Fashion Week: Bahar Korcan, a former ITKIB young designer of the year, who is sponsored by ITKIB. This marks a giant leap from past generations of Turks such as Rifat Ozbek, Hussein Chalayan, Atil Kutoglu and the Ege sisters from the Parisbased Dice Kayek, all of whom set up abroad and effectively became part of another countrys design pool. There are now design degrees available at Turkish universities one in collaboration with New Y orks Fashion Institute of Technology and the graduates are emerging onto the scene with ever-greater ambition. Y their feet are planted firmly on the ground. It will take et some time before they can beat off competition from the Guccis and Pradas of this world and earn their keep with their small businesses. To help finance his dreams, Unal heads a creative team at Turkish shirtmaker Abbate and holds other consultancies. Yildirim, similarly, is consultant to another shirt brand, Bils, while other designers either seek contract work with big firms or use private money to fund their couture and rtw. The textile industrys efforts to improve quality mean that increasingly such positions are available to designers. Considering how long it took Hussein Chalayan to secure support here, nobody expects a flood of farsighted Turkish sponsors to help them yet. Arzu Kaprol, whose conceptual, classics-with-a-twist collections have a large following in Turkey, launched in London and New York earlier this year and has put on several shows at CPD. But she acknowledges that things move slowly. As a designer in Turkey I feel very alone, she says. So few people work in this area there are barely 10 of us. There is no previous generation, nobody I can say I could emulate, but hopefully we are creating the inspiration for future generations. While the designers believe in their own collective talent, they realize that Turkey is a long way from becoming a fashion capital and

few people this So there arework in 10 of us. area barely There is no previous generation, nobody I can say I could emulate, but hopefully we are creating the inspiration for future generations.

Arzu Kaprol
that they may never themselves become big international brands. We are moving forward and none of us has taken a step back, said Paris- and Istanbul-based Evrim Timur, talking about what she described as the quixotic task of trying to break into the international scene. Maybe none of us will become the next John Galliano, but we have to keep going so there will be a next generation. Timur was talking at a recent seminar run by Turkish Elle magazine about the state of Turkish fashion, which exposed shortcomings in every quarter, from infrastructure, financing and skilled, critical fashion writers to competent, qualified staff and models. Talent is nothing, the designers agreed, if there is such a lack of coherence in the business. Womens wear designer turned mens wear enthusiast Hatice Gokce who was recently feted in the national press for creating bodies and fur work for fashionable men in a collection exploring the Freudian concepts of id, ego and superego sharply criticizes the system in which she is forced to work. The whole Turkish education system is geared against imagination and toward learning by rote, and whole lives are led without people being aware of their talents a lot of Turkish creative energy is lost this way, yet theres no reason why a Turk shouldnt be as good a designer as anyone else, she complains. Cliques and people who arent experts stand in judgment while really important aspects are ignored. For instance, I learned by pure fluke at a fair that my designers were very suitable for Italy. It would have been nice if there was a system or people who could do this kind of research and who could advise us we cant do everything alone. She points out, sadly, that only about three designers managed to attend just one of the seminars at the recent International Apparel Federations congress here. The rest of the meeting was reserved for businessmen rather than creative talent. But, as Yildirim says, awareness is increasing fast. The younger generation of designers have a better idea of what they want to do, he says. Before us was the tailor generation and there are still many of them, as its still a great market I dont suppose theyd even want to be designers. The younger generation is emerging partly through the ITKIB competition, whose judges include international fashion industry players, writers and Turks from abroad, such as Ece Ege from Dice Kayek. Ege is enthusiastic, pointing out that just a few years ago nobody of any consequence would have bothered to show up at a Turkish event.

Hakan Yildirims runway presentation.

Umit Unal

PHOTOS BY T. KEREM UZEL PHOTOGRAPHY

18

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

Financial

Weekly Stock Index

52-Week High Low 14.59 17.80 50.60 4.00 26.42 30.82 6.30 15.81 56.06 41.80 60.20 3.58 12.32 23.51 0.94 15.57 17.81 1.48 6.66 18.25 25.60 46.25 Broadline Retailers Bon-Ton Stores Dillard Dept. Federated Gottschalks J.C. Penney May Dept. Stores Retail Ventures Saks Sears Target Wal-Mart
Softline Retailers Ann Taylor Bluefly Burlington Coat Charming Shoppes Chico's FAS Dress Barn Foot Locker Gap Kohl's Limited Brands Neiman Marcus Group Nordstrom Pacific Sunwear Ross Stores Syms Talbots TJX Vendors Alberto Culver Avon Cherokee Coach Columbia Sportswear Del Laboratories Estee Lauder Fossil G-III Gucci Guess Jones Apparel Kellwood Kenneth Cole Liz Claiborne Mossimo Movado Oxford Phillips-Van Heusen Polo Ralph Lauren Quiksilver Revlon Russell Corp. Tarrant Apparel Tommy Hilfiger Tropical Sportswear VF Corp. Warnaco Textiles Delta Woodside Galey & Lord Guilford Mills Unifi

P/E 14.8 45.7 15.7 25.5 16.8 30.7 9.4 20.5 26.5

Sales (00s) 1546 19990 47029 916 70945 51413 1879 21223 86694 118815 294908

Amt Last Change 11.12 16.36 46.13 3.52 25.59 28.35 4.75 14.82 44.87 37.72 52.30 -0.44 0.28 -0.01 -0.02 -0.12 -0.16 0.31 0.11 0.30 0.00 -0.22

C&B, Dress Barn See Dips in Comps

NEW YORK Two specialty retailers reported December comparable-store sales ahead of the pack last week, and although the results were not good, they were not unexpected. As forecast, Christopher & Banks Corp.s December samestore sales dropped 7 percent. Dress Barn Inc. said comps dipped 1 percent. C&Bs December same-store sales marked the third consecutive month of declining comps for the specialty retail chain. The firm last recorded positive same-stores in September when they gained 3 percent. For the 12 months of the calendar year, C&B posted same-store sales deceases in seven months and comped up in five. Julys 6 percent improvement was the companys strongest month for comps, while February showed the weakest results with a 10 percent same-store sales plunge. December comps were in line with C&Bs Dec. 23 guidance, at which time chief executive officer Bill Prange said business had been hurt by snowstorms in many of its market areas and intense competition in apparel retailing. The company estimated it lost 2 to 3 percent of its sales because of the storms, and forecast a 3 to 6 percent decline in fourth-quarter comps. However, C&Bs total sales for the four-week period ended Dec. 27 grew 8 percent to $51.4 million from $47.8 million a year ago, the Minneapolis-based firm said last week, while total sales for the year-to-date advanced 17 percent to $341.8 million from $291.2 million in the prior year. Comps for the 10-month period regressed 1 percent. Meanwhile, Dress Barns 1 percent same-store sales decline caused it to finish the calendar year with eight months of negative comps, three months of positive comps and one month when comps were unchanged. The Suffern, N.Y.-based retailer said total sales for the five weeks ended Dec. 27 increased 2 percent to $81.2 million from $79.7 million a year ago. The bulk of retailers will report December same-store sales results Thursday.

40.79 5.97 22.50 6.85 39.43 15.79 23.85 23.47 65.44 18.46 55.25 35.50 24.56 28.08 8.40 38.65 23.70

17.05 0.70 15.40 2.70 16.75 12.20 9.28 12.01 42.40 10.88 25.90 15.00 10.74 16.29 6.02 22.00 15.54

20.2 14.7 17.7 35.5 60.0 18.6 22.1 24.3 17.3 18.6 23.3 23.2 19.0 15.7 19.9

30887 14404 1587 28547 50227 2809 29369 111841 123810 47229 4275 24603 57891 36692 1534 8983 74179

37.61 4.09 20.97 5.54 36.65 15.19 23.20 22.53 43.86 17.75 52.45 33.25 20.79 26.13 7.00 30.67 21.61

-0.44 0.19 -0.04 0.36 0.71 -0.04 0.17 -0.43 -0.15 -0.22 -0.15 -0.59 0.07 -0.52 0.05 0.67 0.32

Dan Burrows

Moodys Lowers Dillards Ratings

NEW YORK Dillards Inc.s debt ratings were downgraded by Moodys Investors Services last week as the rating agency cited concerns over the value of the companys franchise over the longer term, and the uncertainty that Dillards financial performance will recover to levels that will be consistent with peers. Concluding a review it initiated in August, Moodys lowered Dillards senior implied rating to B1 from Ba3; its senior unsecured ratings to B2 from Ba3; and the firms subordinate debt ratings to B3 from B2. The revised ratings, like their predecessors, are all considered not prime, or speculative grade by Moodys. The rating outlook, however, is stable. Additionally, Moodys lowered shelf ratings for Dillards debt and preferred stock to (P)B2, (P)B3, and (P)Caa1 from (P)Ba3, (P)B2, and (P)B3. Moodys said Dillards is being squeezed by competition at either end of the price-point spectrum, as Target Corp. and Kohls Corp. have aggressively pursued its customers while more traditional department stores have been more aggressive with promotions and markdowns. The downgrade reflects Moodys expectation that Dillards will not be able to quickly turn around its disappointing operating performance, and that the company will continue to face strong challenges from a broad range of competitors, said Moodys in a statement. Dillards key competitive strategy is to excel with compelling private label product, which produces higher margins for the retailer and drives customer loyalty. Moodys is concerned that Dillards will find it challenging to deliver this message to consumers given the drop-off in store traffic and the promotional pricing strategies used by competing department stores. As reported, the Little Rock, Ark.-based regional department store chain last month increased its senior secured credit facility to $1 billion from $400 million. The facility also has been extended an additional five years, pushing its expiration to 2008. Moodys said the new credit revolver is sufficient to finance working capital and any operating losses, if necessary. In its most recent earnings report, Dillards said its net loss for the third quarter ended Nov. 1 more than tripled to $15.8 million, or 19 cents a diluted share, from $5.1 million, or 6 cents, in the year-ago period. Although the loss was 14 cents less than analysts had projected, sales slipped 1.7 percent to $1.76 billion and comparable-store sales declined 2 percent. Its November same-store sales slid 6 percent.

64.40 69.75 22.74 40.84 59.39 29.29 40.20 30.20 12.00 99.80 15.60 37.44 42.00 31.40 38.90 6.90 30.75 35.83 18.20 31.52 19.55 3.92 21.15 4.76 16.60 8.98 44.08 18.23

47.08 48.93 13.65 14.52 31.55 16.29 25.73 15.95 4.62 83.91 3.30 25.61 22.65 18.55 26.23 3.40 17.30 11.01 11.16 19.30 12.10 2.05 14.94 2.45 5.61 2.13 32.62 8.80

22.7 26.8 13.4 41.5 18.5 12.7 29.7 20.8 9.2 30.8 13.9 32.0 18.6 14.3 7.2 15.8 22.8 16.7 15.3 16.4 13.5 8.6 12.9 -

6584 29195 3027 55428 6908 197 15072 6597 337 2314 11622 26675 6023 2471 16871 2403 980 4722 3681 6317 17302 7552 5975 2840 28386 11965 9571 7227

62.33 66.73 22.01 36.94 54.77 25.06 38.57 27.95 9.60 85.55 12.00 34.50 41.41 29.15 34.97 4.49 28.60 34.22 17.73 28.69 17.60 2.28 17.41 3.68 14.66 2.16 42.58 16.16

0.51 -0.20 0.17 -0.57 -0.70 0.66 -0.83 0.09 0.59 0.17 -0.87 -0.66 0.31 0.00 -0.37 0.31 0.10 0.34 -0.27 0.28 0.02 -0.02 -0.21 0.18 0.83 -0.25 0.33 -0.02

D.B.

Tropical Foresees $130M Loss

NEW YORK Tropical Sportswear International stunned investors, competitors and retailers alike last week when it disclosed that it expects a $130 million loss for the fiscal year ended Sept. 27. The bombshell disclosure came as Tropical alerted the Securities and Exchange Commission that its quarterly Form 10-K, due on Dec. 29, wouldnt be filed on time and requested at least a 15-day extension. Shares hit a 52-week low of $2.20 in Nasdaq trading before closing at $2.21, down 16 percent that day. On Friday, shares established yet another 52-week low, and closed at $2.16, down 0.9 percent. In a statement the company said the filing extension was necessitated by ongoing negotiations with its lenders regarding an amendment to its revolving credit facility and real estate loan. However, more telling information surfaced in the companys Form 12b-25 filing with the SEC, in which the company said it was estimating a $130 million loss for fiscal 2003, compared with earnings of $2.3 million reported in 2002. As Tropicals losses for the first nine months of the fiscal year totaled $34.9 million, the fourth-quarter loss would be in excess of $95 million. Following the announcement Standard & Poor s Ratings Services downgraded the company in several key areas. The companys corporate credit rating was downgraded to CCC from B-minus and its subordinated debt foundered to CC from CCC. S&P also lowered its senior secured debt rating on the companys $95 million revolving credit facility, due 2006, to CCC-plus from B. According to S&P Tropical , Sportswears approximately $140 million in debt outstanding as of June 28 combined with problems associated with the consolidation of the companys Savane division were key factors in the downgrades. According to a statement, S&P said that following the consolidation the company had experienced greater than expected sales returns and allowances, necessitating heavy discounting on excess inventory. S&P also noted that sweeping changes in senior management created further instability. As reported in early August, the company terminated president and chief executive officer Christopher B. Munday, executive vice president and chief financial officer N. Larry McPherson and executive vice president and general counsel Gregory Williams after thirdquarter figures were released. Sales for the nine months slid 11.1 percent to $308.5 million.

5.17 0.05 14.00 7.37

1.35 0.01 2.25 4.25

579 1928 256 4855

2.08 0.01 14.00 6.44

0.48 0.01 2.25 0.13

WWDStock Market Index for the Week Ending January 2

Composite: 111.78 Broadline Stores: 107.41 Softline Stores: 121.28

Biggest Percentage Changes For Week Ending January 2

Gainers
Delta Woodside Guilford Mills Mossimo Retail Ventures

Close
2.08 14.00 4.49 4.75

Change
30.00 19.15 7.42 6.98 -10.37 -6.76 -3.81 -2.11 -1.95

-0.35 Vendors: 117.26

-0.33 Textiles: 116.58

-0.62

Losers
Index base of 100 is keyed to closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002.

Close Change

-0.26

5.75

Tropical Sportswear 2.16 Guess 12.00 Bon-Ton Stores 11.12 Estee Lauder 38.57 Ross Stores 26.13

Ross Tucker

WWD, MONDAY, JANUARY 5, 2004

19

Admin

Since 1967

PATTERN/SAMPLES
Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast work. Custom-made Bridalwr 212-629-4808

PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD
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Cole Haan, a leader in branded luxury footwear, accessories and outerwear is looking for a talented individual to join our accessories sales team in the following capacity.

Account Executive - Womens Accessories

This position, based in New York, will drive sales in major accounts and Northeast independents. This position requires 2+ years in wholesale sales or planning experience. This qualified candidate must have the ability to establish and build effective working relationships and possess strong organizational and communication skills. In addition, the proven ability, enthusiasm, and business management skills to help successfully meet sales objectives is critical in this position. To apply to for this position please forward your resume to: Colehaan.hr@colehaan.com or fax to (207) 846-3477 Please visit colehaan.com for information about Cole Haan products. We are an equal opportunity employer. M/F/D/V

RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Updating/Phone Interviews PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 www.resumesforfashion.com

DIRECTOR of MERCHANDISING & PLANNING - RETAIL

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Candidate must have excellent oral and presentation Leading childrenswear mfr is looking skills. Day and evening positions are for a professional Sales Asst to work Ladies, Sleepwear and Loungewear available. for the Account Executive in the daily Experienced CAD artist w/ability Fax resumes to: (212) 937-6034 execution of duties including to create original contemporary art, reaudit & control and shipping and peats for production, story boards, catadistribution of merchandise. Retail logues, packaging and labels. THE SCHOOL OF CHOICE exp a plus. Must be proficient in all Fax resumes to Cherie:212-686-1767 EOE M/F/D/V admin duties incl. excellent written & verbal communication and Microsoft Word & Excel. Excellent salary & benefits. Email resume: holt@babytogs.com or Freelance fit model wanted for ladies fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. eveningwear designer. B 35 1/2 W 27 David Yurman seeks a highly motivat- 1/2 H 37 1/2. Please call us: 212-398-0488 or fax to 212-382-0020 ed, dynamic sales professional to manage a national account. Responsible Dress manufacturer seeking experifor fulfillment of sales orders, enced person with missy, large size developing/implementing training and related separate following. programs, establishing methods for Established junior co. seeks creative Fax resume to 212-575-4693 measuring customer satisfaction, graphic artist. Must be a team player, resolving ongoing customer com- familiar with Mac, Illustrator and SALES EXECUTIVE (P/T) plaints & traveling to various doors. Photo Shop. Experience with licensed Estd NYC pvt label kidswear co. seeks Previous exp managing a luxury cus- products a plus. Email jobs@wmba.org exp Salesperson for new exciting tomer service based account a MUST. branded line. Must have contacts in Email resume to better market for this ground floor opjobs@davidyurman.com. EOE. portunity. Will also participate in growth of pvt label at all price points. Import co. has immediate position P/T flex hrs. Fax resume: 212-967-2038 available for accts recvble dept, must CT based Childrens wear Company have experienced in billing, charge seeking well-organized, energetic, detail- back, returned authorizations, debit oriented design assistant. Candidate notes & commission. Must be able to Experienced Full Time Salesperson must have knowledge of construction reconciled all outstanding payments needed for high-end home boutique. and fabrics, along with a demonstrated year past due current, maintain & up- This person should be energetic, enthuability to produce flat sketches and dated reports in all phases for produc- siastic & people oriented. Knowledge technical packages using Illustrator, tion , needs to be organized detail ori- of home merchandise a plus. Must be Photoshop and Excel. 3-5 yrs experi- ented with good computer skills, team available Tuesday-Saturday. ence. Highly competitive salary and player. Please fax resume attn. Asha @ Please fax resume w/salary benefits. Email resumes w/ salary re(212) 206-7064 requirement to: (212 )643-8017 quirements to: designasst@yahoo.com Design Dir/Merchandiser $120-150K. Current Knitting Plant Mgr to $50K. Current ep. exp. in product devel. of JR denim bottoms, managiing knitters on Stoll CMS Coolwear seeks sales pros to join our twills, cords etc. Private label & branded. Su- machines. Train/supervise 8. Co. will relo growing team. Must have established contacts in trendy junior or kids you to West Coast. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy pervise 6. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy markets. Min 5 years experience. Designer $80-100K. Current exp in Fax resume to 718-706-0946 or mens loungewear/sleepwear. Knits & e-mail HR@Coolwear.com wovens. Mid tier/mass market. Must SLS - BOYS/GIRLS OPEN$ hang w/ Briefly Stated, Host, Pico, High end co. servicing bridal couture Maj co seeks expd sls pros for urban Exquisite, win song etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy industry seeks well organized, expd brands. Must sell Dept stores and professional to manage upper east side DESIGNER/CAD office & for high profile client contact. specialties. Intimate Apparel Co. seeks creative Must have excellent computer & personal CAD Designer. Must be proficient in communication skills. Email resume to: 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 Illustrator. Fax resume: 212-696-1393 wwdjob@yahoo.com

W-I-N-S-T-O-N APPAREL STAFFING

Fashion Design & Merchandising Instructors

Great Opportunity!

APPAREL STAFFING Alan Wolf - Since 1971

CAD ARTIST

Sales Assistant

KATHARINE GIBBS SCHOOL

Customer Service Manager

Fit Model

SALES

GRAPHIC ARTIST

Import Asst

DESIGN ASSISTANT

SALES F/T

SALESPERSON

Marketing/ Sales Associate

A.D. FORMAN ASSOC.

DESIGNER
Established junior co. seeks cut & sew knitwear designer. Must have strong fashion sense and know the latest trends. Min 5 yrs experience. Email jobs@wmba.org Designer Merchandiser to $150K. Current exp. in product devel of relaxed classic mens sportswear. Supervise art dept. Photoshop/ Illustrator proficient. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy.

Patternmaker $60-75K. current exp. in better dresses + evening dresses. Knowledge of Gerber or Lectra helpful not nec. Relo to Phila area. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy

WE BUY BRAND NAMES!

Clothing, Accessories, Shoes, Lingerie, Fabrics, Perfumes & Beauty Products, Canned Food, Electronics, Appliances for our South American Market. Any Quantities. Call: (305) 717-6772

PATTERNMAKER
Womens designer quality sportswear. 1st patterns thru production. Must know Gerber computer system. Experienced in jackets/tops. Fast & Accurate.

RETAIL SALES

TECHNICAL DESIGNER

For Space in Garment Center

DESIGNER-SOCKS
Seeking Highly Motivated, Organized Designer. Knowledge of Macs, Photoshop, and Illustrator a must! Experience in Socks/Hosiery a plus Brands, Private Label E-mail resume to design@ginahos.com Designer to $140K 10 yrs missy contemportay casual bts &tops Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Jennifer@justmgt.com

Helmsley-Spear, Inc.
212-880-0414 Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 GARMENT CENTER REAL ESTATE For ALL office & loft SPACES 500-20,000 SQ.FT Under Market Sublets - NO FEE! 525 7th Avenue Shared Shwrm Own Ent

Seeking a highly professional, selfmotivated and aggressive Retail store mgr. Asst. mgr. and Sales assoc. for new luxury handbags and access. retail location at Garden State Plaza Experienced in fittings, specing, grading, Mall. Email or fax resume to: production & communicating overseas. info@valentine2ltd.com 212-868-1915 Patternmaking background a plus. Must know PDM or Gallery System. Fax resume with salary requirements Attention Dawn @ (212) 268-0232

Product devel. to $55K. Min 1 yr exp. product devel. of womens or mens knits. Web PDM exp. reqd. Very famous design firm. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy TECHNICAL DESIGN MANAGER Responsible for day to day operations of tech dept, req exp in childrenswear, thorough knowledge of grading specs, Lectra and Excel. Fax resume to 212-947-2956

212-947-5500
Paul, Mike, Larry, Don, Jerry or Steve

Showrooms & Lofts CLOSE OUTS

We Buy Mens, Womens & Childrens All Quantities WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY We are nice people to deal with P.S. Large Piece Good Deals Also HBA and General Merchandise. Call Rocky 800-762-5488
BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Great New Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500

Accounts Receivable
go-getter for menswear importer. Posting & collections. Must have experience in dealing with department stores and their chargebacks. Need to be aggressive in collections and chargeback resolution. Send resume & desired salary to nt@administaff.com EOE

Designer to $150K. Current exp. in better foundation bras reqd. Creative + tech knowledge + patternmaking skills. Grading, etc. Midtown Call 973-564-9236 Agcy

Design - Textiles
CAD artist wanted for top level home textiles mfr. Must have a minimum of 2 years experience using proprietary textile software. Must also be knowledgeable in Adobe Illustrator and PhotoShop. Good color sense and strong creative ability is also a must. For consideration in joining the N.Y.C. based design group, please fax your resume to Pam at: 212-213-1683.

Accts. Rec./Chrgback Col.

Showroom Sublet - Brand New 171 Madison 3300 FT Wood Floors Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Search-www.manhattanoffices.com Leading midtown accessories/novelty Co. seeks organized, energetic individual. Tremendous opportunity for growth. Exp. in dealing w/ major retail stores. Proficient w/ Microsoft applications. Good communications skills. Fax resume to 212-643-0684

FABRIC SALES REPS

Fabric importer looking for sales reps. Only those with active accounts / store connections need apply. Fax resume: 212-719-9117

One major trade show. Two high-impact opportunities.

WWDMAGIC Preview
Coated Stock Supplement: February 10
Close: January 12

Influence retail buyers before they get to WWDMAGIC. Editorial will include a listing of the week's most important events and the latest trends to watch. Bonus Distribution: Booth to booth and at the WWD table

WWDMAGIC First Day

Section II: February 23
Close: February 6

Drive buyer traffic to your booth. Be part of a section, including the Las Vegas scene, calendar of events, retail news, and the latest trends in better, junior/young contemporary, accessories, junior accessories, moderate and activewear. Bonus Distribution: Booth to booth at MAGIC

For more information contact Ralph Erardy, SVP Group Publisher at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative.

WWDMediaWorldwide