Personal Care

Volpo
Fatty alcohol ethoxylates
The Volpo ranges of ethoxylated fatty alcohols are nonionic surfactants, based upon a variety of fatty alcohols and different levels of ethoxylation. Volpos offer diverse properties for the formulation of a wide range of personal care systems. Chemically all Volpos conform to the following structure where 'R' represents the fatty alcohol moiety and 'n' represents the number of moles of ethylene oxide.

R - O - (CH2- CH2- O) - H
n
Figure 1 General chemical structure of Volpos

Volpos are produced by reacting ethylene oxide (EO) with a particular fatty alcohol. The standard ranges are based upon cetyl (C), cetearyl (CS), stearyl (S), oleyl (N) and synthetic C12-13 (L) alcohols. The number suffix in the product name indicates the level of ethoxylation (ie Volpo N3 contains 3 moles of EO). Variants based on other fatty alcohols may be made available on request. Product ranges Volpo L Volpo C Volpo CS Volpo S Volpo N Alkyl chain C12-13 C16 C16-18 C18 C18:1 INCI name (n = no. moles of EO) C12-13 Pareth-n Ceteth-n Ceteareth-n Steareth-n Oleth-n Products (no. moles of EO) 3, 4, 23 20 6, 12, 20*, 25 2, 10, 20 2, 3, 5, 10, 20

Notes: * Volpo CS20 conforms to the specification for Cetomacrogol 1000 EP

Functions The functions and applications of the Volpos are dependent on both the source fatty alcohol and the degree of ethoxylation. General guidelines for the product ranges are provided in table 1. Volpos based upon cetyl, cetearyl and stearyl alcohols possess similar properties and functions. Bath oil dispersants Co-emulsifiers and bodying agents Detergent system viscosity modifiers Dispersing agents Emulsifiers creams and lotions Emulsifiers microemulsions Gelling agents Solubilisers Spreading agents Wetting agents Key: 4 - Recommended
Table 1

Volpo L 44 44 44 4 44 4

Volpo C/CS/S 44 44 -

Volpo N 4 44 44 4 44 4 44

44 - Highly recommended

Application guidelines for the Volpo series

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The source fatty alcohol and degree of ethoxylation will also determine the physical form of the Volpo produced. In general Volpo L and Volpo N products are liquids whilst Volpo C, CS and S products are solids; where melting point permits the solid grades are supplied in pastille form for ease of handling and use. Benefits Stable over a wide pH range Hydrolytically stable Tolerant to extreme pH levels Electrolyte tolerant As ethoxylated alcohols the Volpos are classified as ethers and possess certain behavioural characteristics inherent to these compounds. The presence of an ether linkage in their structure gives them exceptional stability, and the absence of an ester linkage virtually eliminates any tendency for them to hydrolyse. These properties enable them to exhibit tolerance to extreme levels of pH and to tolerate higher levels of electrolytes than estertype surfactants. Volpos are therefore particularly recommended for use in extreme pH formulations, such as antiperspirant deodorants, AHA and BHA creams, perms, depilatories and hair relaxers. Volpos behave synergistically and can therefore be formulated to greater effect when used in combination. This is particularly evident in the case of difficult to formulate emulsions, such as clear gel microemulsions and antiperspirant roll-ons. Solubility As with all ethoxylates, the solubility of the Volpos depends upon their degree of ethoxylation, with water solubility increasing with increasing levels of ethoxylation. Thus, the higher ethoxylates, eg Volpo N20, C20, CS20, S20, are soluble in water and insoluble in mineral oil and other non-polar solvents. The lower ethoxylates, Volpo N3, S2, L3, are soluble in mineral oil and other non-polar oils, but are insoluble in water. As such these lower ethoxylates are lipophilic and exhibit emollient as well as emulsifying properties. Stability and compatibility The Volpos exhibit good stability over a wide pH range, giving them the versatility to be used in a variety of oil-in-water systems. They are compatible with other nonionic surfactants as well as anionic and cationic ingredients. HLB and emulsification Volpos based on cetyl, cetearyl and stearyl alcohol are excellent emulsifiers for cosmetic creams and lotions. Volpos based on oleyl alcohol are more often used for the formulation of microemulsion systems. The HLB of these surfactants, like their solubility, corresponds to the degree of ethoxylation. Table 2 lists the approximate HLB values for the Volpo ranges in ascending order.

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HLB 4.9 5.0 6.6 8.0 9.0 9.5 10.0 12.4 12.4 13.4 15.3 15.5 15.7 15.7 16.2 16.7
Table 2

Product name Volpo S2 Volpo N2 Volpo N3 Volpo L3 Special Volpo N5 Volpo L4 Volpo CS6 Volpo N10 Volpo S10 Volpo CS12 Volpo S20 Volpo N20 Volpo C20 Volpo CS20/Cetomacrogol 1000 EP Volpo CS25 Volpo L23/L23 Special

INCI name Steareth-2 Oleth-2 Oleth-3 C12-13 Pareth-3 Oleth-5 C12-13 Pareth-4 Ceteareth-6 Oleth-10 Steareth-10 Ceteareth-12 Steareth-20 Oleth-20 Ceteth-20 Ceteareth-20 Ceteareth-25 C12-13 Pareth-23

Approximate HLB values for the Volpo ranges

Primary applications
Microemulsion gels Creams and lotions Physical sunscreens Lipsticks Bath oils Aqueous/alcoholic preparations Permanent waves Depilatories Antiperspirants and deodorants Shaving preparations

Microemulsion gels The Volpo N products based on oleyl alcohol are used to formulate microemulsions as primary emulsifiers or as co-emulsifiers paired with the Crodafos phosphate esters1. As a blend, the two are able to produce superior gels with excellent clarity, doing so at a concentration that minimises the level of surfactant required, thereby yielding systems that exhibit minimal irritation. Gels formulated with a lower ethoxylate, such as Volpo N5, appear to be less irritating than those formulated using higher ethoxylates (15+ moles EO). When used as a co-emulsifier Volpo N5 tends to lower the temperature at which these systems gel, resulting in clear gels with a more manageable set point. Creams and lotions Volpos are excellent emulsifiers for cosmetic creams and lotions. Offering a range of HLB values from 4.9 to 16.7, Volpos provide the flexibility to emulsify a wide range of oils. Volpos can be used to formulate emulsions from water thin milks to heavy creams; Volpo C, CS and S products are most commonly used. Volpo CS20 additionally conforms to the pharmacopoeia specification for Macrogol Cetostearyl Ether and is widely used in topical creams and lotions. Physical sunscreens In the formulation of physical sunscreens and other pigmented systems, Volpo N3, N5 and L3 can be used to aid pigment wetting and dispersion. Inclusion levels as low as 0.3- 0.5% impart improved wetting and reduce the milling time required to disperse pigments in these types of product.

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Lipsticks Volpo N3 and N5 are extremely effective as solubilisers for bromo acid dyes used in lipsticks and can also be used as coupling agents to improve the homogeneity of the product. Volpo N3 is particularly recommended as a solvent for these bromo acids. It enhances retention of the dye on the lips and counteracts the drying effects of the dyes, but does not possess the poor taste typical of most dye solvents. Volpo N3, N5, L3 and L4 will also act as excellent wetting agents for the dispersion of pigments into oil and wax based systems. Bath oils Given their more lipophilic character, Volpo L3, L4, N3 and N5 are excellent choices for the formulation of surface spreading or dispersible bath oils. For dispersible bath oils that form a milky white solution when added to water, a surfactant inclusion level of between 10 and 15% is recommended. To produce bath oils that simply spread across the surface of the water an inclusion level of 3-5% would be more appropriate. Aqueous/ alcoholic preparations Volpo N20 has been found to be an extremely effective solubiliser for perfumes, lipophillic vitamins and oil soluble actives. It is effective at remarkably low inclusion ratios of between 2:1 and 5:1 depending on the oil. Permanent waves and depilatories Due to the presence of ether linkages Volpos possess greater stability in the alkaline environment in which permanent waves and depilatories are formulated. Volpo N3 and N5 can be used as wetting agents in perm solutions. Antiperspirants and deodorants Being tolerant to extremes of pH and metallic ions in solution, Volpos remain stable in high electrolyte, acidic systems such as antiperspirant deodorants. They are used as emulsifiers in formulations for roll-on antiperspirants and are helpful in controlling the viscosity of these systems. Combinations of Volpo S2 and S20 are particularly recommended for use in such products. Shaving preparations The Volpos are useful emulsifiers in brushless shaving creams where they give improved razor slip by enhancing the wetting properties of the cream. As nonionics Volpos tend to produce less irritating formulations. Their superior performance as gellants makes the Volpos ideal ingredients in post-foaming shave gels; Volpo N20 in particular finds use in this application. Health and safety MSDS for individual products are available on request. Reference 1. US patents 3,101,300 and 3,101,301

Non-warranty Information in this leaflet is given in good faith. Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd and its associate companies cannot assume any liability expressed or implied in the presentation of this data, nor should information contained herein be construed as granting licence to practise any methods or compositions of matter covered by British or other patents.

Croda Chemicals Europe Personal Care Cowick Hall Snaith Goole East Yorkshire DN14 9AA England Tel +44 (0)1405 860551 Fax +44 (0)1405 860205 E-mail pc-europe@croda.com www.croda.com/europe/pc
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