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Signatures:

Student: Supervisor:
Muhammad Siddique ------------------------

Mr. Muhammad Qamar Tusief

------------------------

Supervisory Committee:
(a) (b) (c) Mr. Muhammad Qamar Tusief Mr. Nasir Mahmood Mr. Muhammad Arif ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Forwarded: (Chairman, Department of Fibre Technology) Faculty Scrutiny Committee:


(a) Dr. Muhammad Iftikhar (b) Mr. Nasir Mahmood -----------------------------------------------

Chairman,
Dept. of Fibre Technology University of Agriculture, Faisalabad.

Dean,
Faculty of Agri. Engg. & Technology, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad.

Director,
Advanced Studies, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad.

UNIVERSITY OF AGRICULTURE, FAISALABAD DEPARTMENT OF FIBRE TECHNOLOGY (Synopsis for the Degree of M. Sc.)

TITLE: IMPACT OF DIFFERENT WRINKLE-FREE FINISHES ON THE


QUALITY OF PURE COTTON FABRIC. Name of Student Registration No. Name of Supervisor Muhammad Siddique 2008-ag-67 Mr. Muhammad Qamar Tusief

Abstract
Many cotton fabrics are treated with chemicals to reduce wrinkling. This crease resistant finish to cotton fabrics improves comfort, ease of maintenance, dimensional stability and pilling performance.Additionally, chemically treated fabric dry more easily. However, the application of crease resistant finish also shows unwanted effect on cotton fabrics. Breaking and abrasion strengths of fabrics decrease when crease resistance finishes are applied. Many non-formaldehyde compounds are used to impart crease resistant finish and it is found that the use of non-formaldehyde is inexpensive and hygienic. The present research study project endeavors the impact of different wrinkle free finishes on the quality of pure cotton fabric.

UNIVERSITY OF AGRICULTURE, FAISALABAD DEPARTMENT OF FIBRE TECHNOLOGY (Synopsis for the Degree of M. Sc.)

TITLE: IMPACT OF DIFFERENT WRINKLE-FREE FINISHES ON THE


QUALITY OF PURE COTTON FABRIC.

Date of Admission: Date of Initiation: Probable Duration:

16-08-2008 16-08-2008 01 semester

PERSONNEL Name of student Registeration No. Name of Supervisor Supervisory committee Mr. Muhammad Qamar Tusief Mr. Nasir Mahmood Mr. Muhammad Arif (Chairman) (Member)
(Member)

Muhammad Siddique 2008-ag-67 Mr. Muhammad Qamar Tusief

NEED FOR THE PROJECT


One of the most important factors that influences the quality of fabric is the ability of fabrics to recover from induced wrinkles. Wrinkles are defined as the fabric deformations based on its viscoelastic properties. Wrinkles are classified into two categories, namely desirable wrinkles for smartness of clothes and undesirable wrinkles occurring during wear. Most research focuses on desirable wrinkles.Fibre, yarn and fabric characteristics, and finish processes contribute to the development of wrinkles. Factors that affect wrinkle development include fibre type, bending performance of fibre, fibre diameter, yarn twist, weft-warp density, fabric construction, and fabric thickness. Some fibre types such as wool and cultivated silk have a good resistance to creasing, whereas cellulose materials such as cotton, viscose and linen have a very poor resistance to creasing.Improvement in fibre bending performance increases wrinkle resistances of fabrics. Low and high twist levels of warp and weft yarns result in decreasing wrinkle resistances of fabrics. However, medium twist levels of yarn improve wrinkle resistances of fabrics. By increasing weft-warp density, wrinkle resistance of fabrics decreases. Knitted fabrics have a higher wrinkle resistance than woven fabrics. An increase in fabric thickness results in an increase in wrinkle resistance of fabrics. Crease resistant finishes also affect pilling performance of woven fabric by decreasing the ability of the fibre to move. Limiting fibre moment leads to decrease pilling or improve pilling performance. The crease resistant finishes also limit the moment of fibre elements. However, limiting fibre moment will reduce the breaking strength of fibre. Fibres with crease resistant finishes are more susceptible to exceeding the fibre breaking strength under an applied force. Crease resistant finish improves wrinkle resistance of fabrics. However the use of crease resistant finish produces undesired fabric characteristics such as decreased breaking strength, tear strength and pilling. With decrease pilling, fabric pilling performance improves. It is found that the crease resistant finish causes 50% increase in wrinkle recovery angle and pilling performance. On the other hand, the crease resistant finish causes 28% decrease in breaking strength and 19% decrease in tear

strength (Can et al., 2009). The wrinkle free finish(also known as easy care, durable press, wrinkle resistant wash and wear, no-Iron etc.) is obtained by cross-linking cotton with permanent press finishes function by forming cross-links between adjacent cellulose polymer chains, these give cotton some elastic and resiliency properties. Such cross-linked cotton can recover from deformation stresses and thus wrinkles will not form (Anonymous, 2006). Ironing the garments is considered myth today. Our time-starved people want to spend to minimum after cloth- care. Ironing the garments has lost the heat after the developments in wrinkle-resistant fabric finishes. A wrinkle free finishes have hit the market of casual mans trousers in just five years. The wrinkle free quality of garment has been labeled various terms like wrinkle- resistant, wrinkle free, durable press and permanent pres. The industry also uses these terms for several finishing agents that have been appended to fabrics to avoid or reduce the amount of wrinkles. Wrinkle resistant garments should inevitably there in wardrobes. After rejuvenating the bottom industry, the finish has hit the other segments of mens wear industry like woven and knitted dress and sports shirts, jeans and suits. Wrinkle resistant clothing incorporates even the childrens attires and areas of women wear market. The success of the finishes on garments will results into extra progress in other markets (Doshi, 2006). Due to the increasing demand for 100% cotton fabrics, durable press finishes are being used these clothes. Generally, cotton fibres are spun into yarn, woven into fabric and then dyed and the last part of the process is treating it with a cross-linking resin. The applications of formaldehyde based reagents that are used to create these apparels are now creating ripples all across the globe backing up with concern for human health and environment. Previously an organic acid called butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) was used as a substitute formaldehyde. But the high cost of BTCA prevented its application on a commercial scale (Anonymous, 2008).

Wrinkles occur when fabrics are crushed during use and care like washing. Wrinkle recovery depends on crosslinks, which hold adjacent molecular chains together and pull them back into position after the fiber is bent, thus preventing the formation of a wrinkle. Durable press finishes are an important treatment for cotton fabrics; they provide wrinkle resistant and permanent press performance for apparel. The cellulose chains are covalently bonded together by crosslinking and these covalent bonds cannot be disrupted by water. There are two types of products used in conventional durable press finishing; resin type and reactant type. Both of these products contain formaldehyde, a human carcinogen. Durable press finishes free of formaldehyde or formaldehyde precursors have also been proposed. Some of these are dimethyl dihydroxy ethylene urea (DMDHEU), dihydroxy dimethyl imidazolidinone (DHDMI), polycarboxylic acids such as citric acid and butane tetracarboxylic acid, with hyposphosphite salts, imidazoles or sodium maleate, sodium tartrate or sodium citrate as catalysts, and citric acid as extender (Sahin et al., 2009). The finishing of cotton fabric for wrinkle resistance usually consists in the application of crosslinking agents with appropriate catalyst and softener, and in following application with the drying and heating to promote cellulose crosslinking reaction on the fabric. The crosslinking has some effect towards increasing soil retention, and the softening agent has an additional effect. To counteract the increased the soil retention, soil release agent have been incorporated in the finishing formulation (Frick et al., 1973). Cellulose crosslinking is a very important textile chemical process and is the basis for a vast array of finished textile products. Formaldehyde based N-methylol crosslinkers give fabrics many desirable mechanical stability properties (e.g., crease resistance, anti-curl, shrinkage resistance, durable press), but also impart strength loss and the potential to release formaldehyde, a known human carcinogen other systems, e.g., polycarboxylicacids, have been tested with varying degrees of success. We have

developed methods of forming ionic cross links to provide crease angle recovery performance; without the potential for release of any low molecular weight reactive materials like formaldehyde (Hashem et al., 2003). Dimethylol ethylene urea, Dimethylol ethyltriazone, trimethylol melamine and methylol urea are some of the examples. The other examples of crosslinking agents used in the wrinkle resistant treatment are isocyanates, epoxides, divinylsulphones, aldehydes, chlorohydrins, and N-methylol compound and polycarboxlic acids. Amongst these Nmethylol compounds are the most commonly used crosslinking agents. Examples of these compounds include dimethylol urea (DMU), dimethylol ethylene urea (DMEU), trimrthylol tiazine (TMT), dimethlol methyl carbamate (DMMC), uron, triazone and dimethylol dihydroxy ethylene urea (DMDHEU). DMDHEU is the most commonly used durable press finishing agent today. The methylol amide crosslinking agents are quite effective in imparting wrinkle resistance (Datta et al., 2010). Durable press (DP) finished cotton fabric which have the mechanical strength is significantly reduced as a result of the crosslinking process. Low mechanical strength (tear or tensile) is a one of the major disadvantages of DP finished cotton fabrics and subsequently a significant portion of the wrinkle-free garment is under-cured to ensure adequate fabric strength. Loss in fabric strength is the major problem to applications of DP finishing to a wider range of cellulosic fabrics. Now a todays almost all DP finishing systems (dimethylol dihydroxyl ethylene urea (DMDHEU) and modified DMDHEU with magnesium chloride as a catalyst) are used mostly.(Kang, et al., 1998). Little research work till now has been reported on the effectiveness of different wrinkle free finishes to minimize the wrinkle on the pure cotton fabric. Hence it is, therefore, planned to investigate the Impact of different wrinkle free finishes on the quality of pure cotton fabric.

REVIEW OF LITERATURE
A brief review of the studies relating to the proposed research study is being presented here as below. Gagliardi (1972) improved the method of treating cotton and other cellulosic fabrics to create strong wrinkle resistant fabric by introducing bulky side groups and crosslinking the cellulose in a swollen state to eliminate the normally rigid and brittle joints of known crosslinking methods. Such a system produced a crosslinked fiber with great flexibility and toughness. A series of sequential treatments were reported which have yield stronger wrinkle-resistant cotton than was given by conventional treating methods. Frick et al. (1973) claimed that a process for producing wrinkle-resistant cotton fabric without reducing the ease of soil removal comprised adding to a convertional crosslinking bath about 0.1 to 5.0 weight percent of a monoester of citric acid slected from the group consisting of monobutyl citrate and 2-ethylhexyl citrate. Lau et al. (1995) narrated that the level of wrinkle- free treatment affected the fabric tear strength, the higher level of the treatment, the lower the tear strength. Other factors could also affect the fabric strength such as yarn formation and fabric structure. Likfield system et al. (2001) narrated that flexibility and

recoverability were the two basic requirements any new crosslinking to be used as a durable press finishing agent; sufficient flexibility to allow the cellulose chain segments to align to minimize loss in tensile strength and abrasion resistance and excellent recoverability to provide the required wrinkle resistance.

Hashem et al. (2003) that crease angle recovery imparted to cellulosic fabric by the application of ionic crosslinks. There were many possible variations in such a process, e.g., choice of an agent to make the cellulose ionic, selection of polycounterion, and method of application. Carboxymethylated woven fabric treated with cationized chitosan showed significant increases in wrinkle recovery angle (WRA) without strength loss. Saraf (2004) revealed that among the formaldehyde free resins, none of the products showed significant increase in crease recovery angle (CRA) even at higher concentration of 100 g/l. However, Macrobounce exhibited the highest crease recovery angle (CRA) in this category at 100 g/l concentration. Thus, for high value shirting with zero formaldehyde finish, Macrobounce was the best choice among these formaldehyde-free resins. Doshi (2006) discussed that selecting the technology, many features such as type of product (shirt or trouser), WR (wrinkle recovery) procedure, time, vacuum, temperature and chemicals must be taken into account. The two most decisive factors working behind "A" quality pressing of 100% cotton and permanent press garments are temperature and control of cycle. Presses should be prepared with high-heat, cast aluminium Yang and Hu (2006) discussed the results showed that

butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) was a very effective reagent to the durable press (DP) finishing of silk fabrics. The optimized finishing variables were given and up to 273 of wet wrinkle recovery (WRA) were obtained with 87.5% breaking strength retention reserved. In addition, the effects of different processing conditions on durable press (DP) of silk fabrics have been studied Bakhsh (2008) concluded that chemical concentration in case of shrinkage,

tear strength, drape % and soil and stain repellency of finished fabrics was good. The over washing fastness properties were improved by finishes. Anonymous (2008) disclosed that chemical treatment minimizes wrinkles and gives a smooth appearance to the fabrics. This did not reduce the breathability, absorbency, and comfort of the cotton fabrics. These fabrics displayed durable press performance, laundering durability and high fabric strength retention, and also prove to be cost-effective. Can et al. (2009) stated that anti- wrinkle finish operation was a generally applied to fabrics for clothing. With the application of this operation, while wrinkle strength and pilling performance increased, the tensile and tearing strength of the fabric decreased. Hanif (2009) concluded that finishes as well as their concentration levels did not degrade any fabric parameter viz warp and weft fabric shrinkage, fabric luster and light fastness rather improved fabric absorption resistance, washing fastness and wrinkle recovery characteristics. Sahin et al. (2009) observed that the ionic crosslinking process had a great ability to increase the strength of treated fabrics. Unlike covalent bonds formed by treatment of fabric with N-methylol-based resins in conventional durable press finishing, the ionic crosslinks increased the flexibility of the polymer chains. Datta et al. (2010) noted that the catalytic reaction in case of functional finishing is more temperature dependent rather than time and concentration of the finishing agent. Functional terminal innervation ratio (FTIR) results confirm the comparative fixation mechanism of different techniques. It also confirmed higher rate of catalytic reaction in case of pad-flash-cure technique due to more stretching of hydroxyl groups of the subsrate as well as the finishing agent and the result bond formation.

MATERIALS AND METHODS


This research study entitled Impact of different wrinkle-free finishes on the quality of pure cotton fabric will be initiated in the department of Fibre Technology, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad and mainly conducted at a reputed textile processing unit. The cellulosic fabric will be collected from the mill running stocks and analyzed for fabric physical characteristics.After dying different wrinkle-free finishes will be applied on the specimens with standard procedure, machine setting and processing parameters. All the treated samples will be compared with the untreated samples for checking optimum change in quality. Following variables will be selected for the assessment of this research study.

Finishes (F) F1 = Texicil DC F2 = Knittex RCT F3 = Arkofix NEC F4= F4

Application Methods (T) T1 = Pad-dry method T2 = Pad-dry-cure method T3 = Pad-flash-cure method

Concentrations (g/l) (C) C1 = 60 C2 = 80 C3 = 100 C4 = 120

The effects under all applied variables upon the following fabrics characteristics will be evaluated under the prescribed procedures of ASTM Standards (2008) and AATCC test methods (2001) as follows

Characteristics of Fabrics

1. Wrinkle recovery(AATCC Test Method 128-1999) 2. Shrinkage (AATCC Test(135-2001) 3.

Pilling (ASTM D-4970-07)

4. Tear strength (ASTM D -1424-07a) 5. Abrasion resistance (ASTM D-4966-98) 6. Color fastness to washing (ISO 105/CO4) 7. Color fastness to light (ISO 105/BO1) 8. Color fastness to Rubbing (ISO 105-X12)

ANALYSIS OF DATA
The data thus obtained will be analyzed statistically as suggested by
Montgomery (2009) using statistical package for social sciences (SPSS).

LITERATURE CITED
AATCC. 2002. AATCC test methods for dyeing and colour fastness properties (ISO 105/CO4, ISO 105-X12, ISO 105/BO1). U. S. A.

AATCC. 2003. Measurement of fabric properties.AATCC.Technical Manual.Test . method.135, 128 .

ASTM Committee. 2008. Standard method for measurement of fabric properties. ASTM Designation D-4970-07, D-1424-07a, D-4966-98. Amer. Soc. for Test and Mater. Philadelphia, U.S.A

Anonymous. 2006. Wrinkle free finish on garments.

[Online] available at

http//www.apparel.indiamart.com. (Verified on 28-4 2010).

Anonymous.

2008.

Wrinkle

resistant

cotton

fabrics.

[Online]

available

at

http//www.fibre2fashion.com. (Verified on 28-4 -2010). Bakhsh, A. 2008.To study the effect of various water repellent finishes on cotton fabrics. . M.Sc.Thesis Deptt. of Fibre Tech. Univ., of Agri., Faisalabad: 75 Can, Y., M. Akaydin, Y. Turhan and E. Ay. 2009. Effect of wrinkle resistance finish on cotton fabric properties. Indian J. Fibre and Tex. Res. 34(6): 183-186 Doshi, G. 2006. 28-4- 2010). Datta, C., M. Hansda, J. Behera and S. Haldar. 2010. Wrinkle recovery finshing for cellulosic fabric. [Online] available at http//www.Indian textilejournal.com. (Verified on 28-4 -2010). Frick, J. G., W. A. Reeves, A. G. Pierce and G. A. Gaytreaux. 1973. Wrinkle resistance finishes for cotton fabric using citric acid derivatives for soil release. U.S. Patent. 3,754,860. Gagliardi, D. D. 1972. High strength wrinkle resistant cotton fabrics produced by a process involving both monosubstitution and crosslinking of the cotton. U.S. Patent. 3,656,885. Hanif, A. 2009. Study of effectiveness for different antimicrobial finishes on cotton fabrics upon multiple washings. M.Sc.Thesis Deptt. of Fibre Tech. Univ., of Agri., Faisalabad: 76 Hashem, M., P. Hauser and B. Smith. 2003. Wrinkle recovery for cellulosic fabric by means of ionic crosslinking Tex. Res. J. 73(9): 762-766. Wrinkle free garments. [Online] available (Verified at on

http//www.enzinearticles.com/?expert=gaurav_Doshi.

Kang, S. I., C.Q. Yang, W.Wei and G. C. Lickfied.1998. Mechanical strength of durable press finished cotton fabrics: part 1: effects of acid degradation and crosslinking of cellulose by polycarboxylic acids. Tex. Res. J. 68(11):865870. Lau, L., T. Siu, J. Fan, L.Y.C. Siu and E. Newton. 1995. The effect of wrinkle-free treatment on fabric tear strength and dynamic water absorbency. Res. J. Tex. Associ. 4(2): 24-29. Lickfield, G. C., C. Q. Yang, M. J. Drews and J. R. Aspland. 2001. Abrasion resistance of durable press finished cotton. Nat. Tex. center annual report Nov. 2001: 1-9. Montgomery, D. C. 2009. Design and analysis of experiments. Arizona State University. ISBN: 978-0-470-12866-4. Saraf, M. N. 2004. Wrinkle free finishes A study of various cross- linking agents. [On line] available at http//www.wrinkle free finish.doc. (Verified on 28-4 -2010). Sahin, K.U., N. C. Gursoy, P. Hauser and B. Smith. 2009. Optimization of ionic crosslinking process: An alternative to conventional durable press finishing. Tex. Res. J. 79(8): 744-752. Yang, Z. and J. Hu. 2006. The durable press finishing of silk fabrics by using 1, 2, 3, 4Butanetetracarboxylic acid. Res. J. Tex. Associ. 10(1): 46-48.

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