Jute The Golden Fibre

SGS India & SGS Bangladesh

SGS India and SGS Bangladesh - Overview

Founded in 1950 Headquarters in Mumbai and Dhaka ISO 9002 Certified Companies 6 Consumer Services offices 5 Textile Laboratories (NABL Accredited )

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India Consumer Services Locations

Gurgaon (New Delhi)

Mumbai

Calcutta

Bangalore Chennai

Inspections Laboratory

- ISO 9002 Certified operations.

Tirupur

- NABL accredited Textile/General Laboratories.

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Locations of SGS Bangladesh

Dhaka

Inspections
Khulna Chittagong

Laboratory

- ISO 9002 Certified operations.

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Production of Jute
The Fiber stage Jute is a natural bast fiber grown in tropical countries and requires alluvial soil .After undergoing retting and drying process raw jute is brought to the factory /mills for making of yarn

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JUTE PLANTS CULTIVATION

Jute commercial name of the fibre from Chorchorus Capsularis L and Chorchorus Olitorius in the family Tiliaceau Chorchorus Capsularis L and Chorchorus Olitorius cultivated in a number of countries In India and Bangladesh, former is known as White Jute the later called Tossa Jute Although Jute is also grown in Thailand, Myanmar, Nepal, Vietnam, Brazil etc., but India and Bangladesh enjoys almost a monopoly of this fibre on a commercial scale.

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CLIMATE
Any tropical climate, damp and warm climate and not incessant rainfall is the essential condition for successful cultivation of Jute

SOIL
All soils are adapted for jute cultivation, rich loam gives the best result Jute should not be grown continuously in the same soil

TIME OF PLANTING
Capsularis Jute (White) is sown before the Olitorius (Tossa) Species between end of March to end of April, whereas Tossa Jute grows best when planted between April 15 to May 15.

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WEEDING
Jute infested with large number of weeds Weeding are done at least 3 times within month and a half from the date of sowing. In most cases, farmers do 4-5 weedings. Weeding operation is done by hand, more effective than the use of chemical weedcides.

GROWING TIME
6 month duration crop. It may be harvested within 4 months if necessary and for seeds it requires 8 months

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HARVESTING
Harvested any time after it is 90 days old until the seeds are mature Proper time is when the fruits have just commenced to form Too early the yield is less and weak Delayed harvest results in coarser and rough fibre

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GRADING OF JUTE
Quality not uniform varies from place to place and season to season Topography nature of soil and water, rainfall, humidity, practices followed in growing, methods used in retting extraction of fibre, washing, drying, storage are factors

BASIS OF GRADING
Length, strength, colour, lustre and weight Such general qualities as softness, smoothness, distinctness and uniformity of the fibre Proportion of cuttings, hard-centered fibre and harsh crop ends, and Proportion of faults such as roots, barks, sticks, specks, knots, runners and water-marks
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GRADES OF JUTE - India

Jute grown in India, is classified in four varieties categories : Tossa White Mesta Bimli Based on the the grading each one is further classified on a scale of 1 to 8 ( where 1 is the best grade and 8 the worst ). The classification is done FOR Tossa as TD1 , TD2 . TD8 or for white as WD1 WD 8 . The highest production is that o Tossa fibres which accounts for nearly 78% followed by White which is 10% .

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Properties of White Jute

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Properties of Tossa Jute

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GRADES OF JUTE - Bangladesh

Jute grown in Bangladesh, is classified in three categories :

1. 2. 3.

Jat District Northern

1. JAT JUTE
Jat Jute is the finest quality is firm and well defined even strands, good lustre, healthy colouring and very good length Less hairy has soft and small roots and excellent spinning properties Tossa Jute in Jat area has clean straight fibre with golden brown colour and fine lustre

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2. DISTRICT JUTE
District Jute is not uniformed in its texture and strands while its colour varies from light cream to dull grey Its length is shorter than Jat Jute It is heavier and more rooty. Tossa Jute has brownish red or golden-yellow colour and a harsh feel.

3. NORTHERN JUTE
The Northern Jute is not as red as Jat Tossa. It is relatively weak and is also less lustrous and soft.

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GROWING AREA IN INDIA

Total cultivation of Jute is spread over 10, 930 million acres arable land under cultivation Share of Jute poduction in the South Asian region is highest at 62% of the total world production . Jute is grown in the eastern and North eastern parts of India

GROWING AREA IN BANGLADESH

22.5 million acres arable land under cultivation Nearly 1.5 million or 7% of the total land are covered by jute Annual production around 4.5 million bales. Jute is grown every-where depending on soil condition. Some tracts are specially suitable for growing Jute.

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RAW JUTE

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Production of Jute
The Yarn Stage The mills spin yarn from the fibers after cleaning, emulsifying ,softening and drawing . The yarn is wound on spools and exported or consumed in domestic market

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Major Parameters of Inspection (Jute Yarn)

Count and its CV% Breaking Strenght and its CV% Twist per Inch Moisture Regain % Yarn Fault Total Quantity Spool Defect Marking Quality Ratio Oil percent
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Production of Jute
The Fabric stage The yarn is woven into fabrics of various types viz Hessian,Sacking, CBC etc at the looms . For this both shuttle and shuttless looms are used . The final cloth is subject to calendering for smooth wrinkles free appearance

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Major Parameters of Inspection (Jute Fabric)

Construction (Porter and Shots) Quantity ( Wt and metrage) Dimension (width) Strength Packing Marking Fabric Faults Oil percentage Moisture %

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Production of Jute
The Finishing Stage The fabric is either exported or made into variuos bags viz B Twill,A Twill,Sugar Twill etc. In order to ensure food grade quality unsap matter is checked for compliance

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Major Parameters of Inspection ( Jute Bags)

Construction (Porter and Shots) Food grade testing Dimension (length ,width ,height) Seam Strength Packing Marking Fabric Faults Stiching Faults Oil percentage Moisture %
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SGS INVOLVMENT FOR RAW JUTE

Pre-shipment Inspection on behalf of : Buyers Local Shippers or Sellers

SERVICES PROVIDED
Inspection of Quality Inspection of Quantity/Weight Inspection of Packing/Markngs Testing of Moisture Content Inspection of Containers inside the port premises Supervision of Stuffing into Containers inside the port premises
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RAW JUTE INSPECTION PROCEDURES

A. QUALITY: 2% random selection of bales are opened completely for examination of: Grade, Colour, Class of Fibre, Fibre Strength Length of Jute, Lustre of Jute, Texture of Fibre, Handling, Hackling, Cut etc.

B.

WEIGHING: 10% bales selected at random weighed one by one on a platform/hanging scale, humidity checked by Electronic Moisture Meter, excess humidity is deducted for calculation of the actual weight of the consignment as per contract. PACKING / MARKS: Checked during Physical Inspection and at Loading on Trucks/Barges. SUPERVISION OF CONTAINER STUFFING: Inside the port premises

C. D.

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RAW JUTE INSPECTION PICTURES

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RAW JUTE INSPECTION PICTURES

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Services Offered for Jute Goods

Quality/ Quantity Inspections Quality Assurance during Production Container Stuffing Supervision Testing Services

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Inspection Services
Final Random Inspections are performed after goods are 100 % ready for shipment Random sampling is done from the packed goods Selected packing are identified with SGS stencils/seals Sampling done for food grade testing OF Unsap matter

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QA Services
Directly offered to the Mills to help them control and improve quality of their goods Regular checking on the quality parametes Offered for Yarn,Cloth and Bags Reduces rejections after goods are made

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Stuffing Supervision
Containers are checked for cleanliness As Jute is hygroscopic in nature hence moisture plays a vital role in the final product. Contianers are checked for holes or dents which may allow water to seep in during transit Quantity shipped is also checked Specific requirement of buyers are checked for compliance
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Testing Services
Testing performed in state of the art NABL accredited laboratory Testing done for oil content Special testing as per IJO 98/01 performed to determine the Unsaponifiable matter content for Food Grade jute products As and where required witnessing of Test analysis performed in manufacturing mills

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Accreditation

(India)

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Accreditation

(India)

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Standards of Inspection (India)

Time to time based on clients requirement we perform inspection on specified contractual obligation as per stipulation Generally jute goods are inspected on the basis of Bureau of Indian standard specification and we have developed Technical operating procedure based on the same and are performing inspections in accordance with it .

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Standards of Inspection (Bangladesh)

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One Standard for Raw Jute in Bangladesh BJA STANDARD adopted and approved in 1967

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BJA STANDARDIZATION OF PUCCA GRADES APPROVED IN 1967

WHITE LONG JUTE
GRADE DEFINITION
White/Creamy White. Jute of the finest texture.Very strong and very good lustre. Completely free from any defect. Clean cut and well hackled and entirely free from red ends.

RAW JUTE
ABBREVIATION

Bangla White Special

BW-Special

Bangla White A

White to light cream. Jute of fine Texture, strong and very good lustre. Completely free from any blemish. Clean cut, well hackled and entirely free from red ends.

BW-A

Bangla White B

Light cream to straw colour. Jute of good texture, free from blemish. Clean cut and well hackled, red ends excluded.

BW-B

* Source: BJA For more information regarding jute controlling and jute survey send us an inquiry.
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BJA STANDARDIZATION OF PUCCA GRADES APPROVED IN 1967

WHITE LONG JUTE
GRADE DEFINITION
Light Grey / light Reddish to straw colour. Clean Jute of sound strength and average lustre. Free from hard specks and croppy or hard gummy tops. Well cut, well hackled, free from black roots, red soft ends permissible. Any colour, Average strength, occasional bark and specks permissible. Slightly croppy and gummy tops permissible. Well cut on the hard hackled. Red ends permissible. Any colour. Average strength but free from perished fibre. Free from any unretted jute and stick but bark and hard centre permissible. Rough cut on the hard and hackled.

RAW JUTE
ABBREVIATION

Bangla White C

BW-C

Bangla White D

BW-D

Bangla White E

BW-E

* Source: BJA For more information regarding jute controlling and jute survey send us an inquiry.
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BJA STANDARDIZATION OF PUCCA GRADES APPROVED IN 1967

TOSSA LONG JUTE
GRADE DEFINITION

RAW JUTE
ABBREVIATION

Bangla Tossa Special

Uniform colour,golden/red. Tossa of finest texture, very strong and very good lustre. Completely free from any defects. Clean cut and well hackled. (a) Uniform colour, silver grey to golden. Tossa of fine texture, strong and good lustre. Completely free from any blemish. Clean cut And well hackled. (b) Uniform colour, light golden to reddish. Tossa of fine texture, strong and of good lustre. Completely free from any blemish. Clean cut.Well hackled.

BT-Special

Bangla Tossa A

BT-A

* Source: BJA For more information regarding jute controlling and jute survey send us an inquiry.
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BJA STANDARDIZATION OF PUCCA GRADES APPROVED IN 1967

TOSSA LONG JUTE GRADE
Bangla Tossa B

RAW JUTE

DEFINITION
(a) Light to medium grey / copperish grey. Clean Sound fibre of good texture and good average Lustre. Free from blemish. Clean cut. Well hackled.
(b) Light grey / reddish excluding dark grey. Clean sound fibre of good texture and of good Lustre. Free from blemish. Clean cut and well hackled.

ABBREVIATION
BT-B

Bangla Tossa C

Mixed colour,Average strength, occasional bark and soft speck, but free from runners. Slightly croppy and gummy tops permissible. Free from black wiry tops. Well cut and hackled and free from black root ends. Mixed colour. Average strength, occasional bark and speck, but free from runners. Croppy and gummy tops permissible. Free from black wiry tops. Rough cut and hackled and free from black root ends. Any colour. Any strength but free from perished fibre. Free from unretted jute and stick but bark and hard centre permissible. Rough cut and hackled.

BT-C

Bangla Tossa D Bangla Tossa E

BT-D

BT-E

* Source: BJA For more information regarding jute controlling and jute survey send us an inquiry.
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Thank You
For Further Information Please Contact:
SGS India Private Limited 4 Govt. Place North, Delta House, Kolkata -700 001, India Tel : (91-33) 22420720 / 22 / 25 Fax: (91-33) 22420745 / 2481745 E mail : sudhir_kumar@sgs.com manojit_pal@sgs.com SGS Bangladesh Limited 110, Bir Uttam C.R. Datta Road Dhaka 1205, Bangladesh Tel : (880-2) 9676 500, 8653234 Fax: (880-2) 9676 491/495 E mail : sgs.bangladesh@sgs.com shah.alam@sgs.com

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