10

MODE / FASHION
Lopulence gnre par le boom
des dernires annes sombre dans
lanonymat, laissant place la subtilit
et au rafnement prn aujourdhui
par la classe suprieure. Cet hiver,
la femme est LGANTE
et assume pleinement sa
silhouette, sans pour
autant exhiber sa fortune par le
bling bling du pass ; le prestige
ne se mesure plus par les dpenses
frivoles mais plutt par celles bien
rchies. Le luxe est dans la
couleur, dans ltoffe, dans le scrupule enn ;
les matires sont riches, les coupes impeccables,
le tout format en une SIMPLICIT
remarquable et distingue. Les lignes sont ultra
fminines, presque exagres, encore une
fois cet infaillible renvoi aux annes 1980. Quil
soit court ou long, le manteau de vos rves sera
toujours cintr la taille, les paules tantt mises
en valeur, louverture parfois croise. La forme
aperue partout reste celle du peignoir, ici neutre et
SOBRE, ailleurs exagre, mais toujours dune toffe
riche et prcieuse.
Retrouvez-vous dans lun des trois prols suivants an
dentamer votre shopping !
The last decade has generated the kind of
opulence that has since given way to a more
subtle renement, the sort that todays elite
identies with. Ladies this Winter are all woman
and have gotten word to unapologetically
emphasize their gures, all the while refraining
from aunting their riches as weve seen in our
bling bling past. Prestige is nowadays an affair of
good measure as opposed to frivolous spending.
Luxury nds itself through colors, fabrics, restraint;
materials are rich, ts are impeccable, all formatted
into a remarkable and distinguished simplicity.
The almost exaggerated lines represent the essence
of femininity, once again a throwback to the 80s.
Whether you decide on a short version or a long one,
your coat will always be cinched at the waist, will
sometimes be double-breasted and your shoulders
will be concisely accentuated. The shape seen everywhere
is that of a housecoat, over here neutral and temperate, over
there seriously dramatized, though always crafted with the
most exquisite fabrics. Uncover yourself in one of the following
proles to commence your shopping!
PUT YOUR COAT ON!
Sortez
couvert
cet HIVER cet HIVER cet
Sortez
couvertes
cet HIVER
MaxMara
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
ENGLI SH
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
MAG_05.indb 10 01/12/09 12:35
11
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
MODE / FASHION
Are you bold and eternally
optimistic? For the more daring
ones there were pieces in
gorgeous gem colors that could
not be ignored, certainly a subtle
reference to jewelry: emerald,
gold, amethyst, sapphire, ruby,
pearl... Chicness will always go
hand in hand with luster, even in
this weather!
Designers are taking advantage of
this economical crunch to cement
fashions relevance. Indeed, if the
climate seems a little depressing,
the one thing we should turn to is an
object of fantasy! Getting dressed
remains a primary need, so why not
choose a vibrant hue in this cold
season to put a smile on our faces?
RESOLUTELY
POSITIVE
Vous tes INTRPIDE, une
ternelle OPTIMISTE ? Il y a
galement les incontournables
teintes de joyaux pour les plus
tmraires, certainement une
subtile rfrence aux bijoux :
meraude, jaune dor,
amthyste, saphir, rubis,
perle. Le chic saccorde
lclat, mme dans un tel
climat !
Les crateurs protent de
cette rupture conomique
pour ancrer la pertinence
de la mode. En effet, si
lambiance est quelque peu
glauque, les objets fantai-
sistes se doivent de lui don-
ner la rplique ! Shabiller
demeure tout de mme un
besoin primaire et quoi de
mieux quune VIBRANTE
COULEUR en plein hiver
pour nous mettre
le sourire aux lvres ?
Rsolument
Positive
Sonia Rykiel
Dior
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
DKNY
Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
E
E
MAG_05.indb 11 01/12/09 12:36
12
Chanel
MODE / FASHION
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
MAG_05.indb 12 01/12/09 12:36
13
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
VOUS TES LA PARISIENNE par
excellence et nosez la couleur quen agenant teintes
de GRISet BLANCS votre uniforme obscur ?
Nayez crainte car cette saison, cest le NOIR qui
lemporte, ayant t la couleur de prdilection sur
les podiums dun ocan lautre. Chaque crateur
se charge dincarner cette nuance, sans doute
un clin dil au lourd climat conomique. Si les
couleurs sont neutres et absentes, ce sont les dtails
quil faut rechercher. Ils sont subtils mais dune
minutie exquise, truffant les manteaux simples de
somptuosit. La SOBRIT naura jamais t
aussi CHIC.
Are you the embodiment of quintessential Parisian style? If
you consider that greys and the occasional whites mean
highlighting your dark uniform with color, you have certainly
been served. Black is in fact the shade of the season,
as seen everywhere on the runways from New York
to Paris. Perhaps a footnote to the economical crisis,
however, every designer has given themself the task
of personifying this hue. If colors are neutral, look for
conspicuous and sumptuous detailing that make the
most exquisite pairing with sobriety. The latter will have
never been so chic.
aussi CHIC.
Absolument
Parisienne
the embodiment of quintessential Parisian style? If
you consider that greys and the occasional whites mean
highlighting your dark uniform with color, you have certainly
been served. Black is in fact the shade of the season,
as seen everywhere on the runways from New York
to Paris. Perhaps a footnote to the economical crisis,
however, every designer has given themself the task
most exquisite pairing with sobriety. The latter will have
Absolutely Parisian
Roksanda Ilincic
Dior
Andrew Gn
Martin Margiela
Rochas
Lanvin
Chanel
Moschino
MaxMara
Alberta Ferretti
MODE / FASHION
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
E
MAG_05.indb 13 01/12/09 12:36
14
MODE / FASHION
Kenzo
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
MAG_05.indb 14 01/12/09 12:36
15
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
Do you choose to
stay away from black
without wanting to
attract too much
attention? Do
you consider that
natures elements
represent the
perfect color
palette? Then
go with a
coat in this
seasons crisp
shades: a
rich cream or
camel, a delicate
desert rose, a chic
lavender grey or
a luxurious earthy
khaki. Noble materials
emerge at the forefront of
these simple yet refined
and polished styles that
let themselves
be graciously
dominated by
magnificent
skins,
deliciously
tender
cashmeres,
royal tweeds or
even the most
radiant silks.
Vous prfrez vous loi-
gner du noir sans pour
autant trop attirer latten-
tion et vous concdez les
couleurs de
la nature comme
tant celles qui vous vont ?
Prenez alors votre man-
teau dans les nuances cls
de la saison, soit un riche
crme ou camel,
un dlicat rose brl, un
chic gris lavande, ou encore
un somptueux kaki terreux.
La noblesse des mat-
riaux merge au premier
rang : une coupe
pure se laisse
domine par une magni-
que peau, un cachemire
dlicieusement moelleux,
un tweed digne dune reine
ou encore une soie des plus
resplendissantes.
Terre
terre
Des pices
enivrantes
aux teintes
nature vous
sduiront
jusqu en
CLBRER
larrive du
froid !
Down
to earth
Youll be
CELEBRATING
the colds arrival
when you see
these intoxicating
pieces in
natural
tones!
Dnitivement
Naturelle
MODE / FASHION
Bottega Veneta
Jil Sander
MaxMara
Diane Von Furstenberg
Halston
Prada
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
E
MAG_05.indb 15 01/12/09 12:36
24
Vritable
virtuose de
son temps,
il inonde ses
collections de rfrences lart conceptuel
et larchitecture, cherchant perptuellement
rinterprter les formes sculpturales artistiques.
Reconnu pour ses pices la fois graphiques et uides, il sassure
immanquablement dinjecter une forte dose de sensualit dans ses
crations. Son approche plus technique du design lui permet de se
diffrencier radicalement de ses contemporains et lui assure une place
consolide au rang des gnies de son milieu. Balenciaga sempare de lui
en 2001 pour la conception de leurs chaussures : depuis, il fait tomber
les fashionistas, offrant une parfaite complmentarit aux vtements de
Nicolas Ghesquire.

Le patrimoine de la maison Roger Vivier
lgu par le crateur pourrait sembler
difcile assumer pour un directeur
artistique. Pourtant, celui qui fut cone
la tche, Bruno Frisoni, ne se rabat pas
devant le d. Son approche lyrique face
la cration de chaussures est lune des
plus potiques, ses collections antrieures
ayant t baptises Poses bohmes ou encore Vnus beaut .
Cet as des rubans apporte romantisme et renouveau une
ancienne maison dsute qui connat prsent un come-back
limage de ses nouvelles collections, plus prestigieuses que
jamais.
Nayant tout
de mme pas
eu besoin de
sassocier
une grande
marque de
prt--porter
pour que
son nom
percute, Giuseppe Zanotti vient par
ailleurs de cimenter son hritage
dans le luxe en chaussant les
derniers dls Balmain, crant
ainsi lenvoutement culte surnomm
Balmania que lui ddient les
fashionistas. Il sduit dabord
les stars dHollywood, puis les
rdactrices et stylistes qui
succombent les unes aprs
les autres ses crations
reconnues pour leurs
minutieux dtails. La
chaussure Zanotti
se distingue par ses
fourrures, cristaux,
textures et maintes
peaux, attributs
lmentaires de ses
chefs duvre.
Cest le petit nouveau de la
bande mais pas le moins important.
Depuis tout juste 2005, ce prodige de la
chaussure sme le dsir chez les fashionistas
grce sa marque ponyme sous laquelle
il cre des souliers se rapprochant souvent
duvres dart. Ses pices hyper conceptuelles
peuvent sembler vertigineusement intimidantes
mais leur distinction frique fait tout simplement quelles sont
instantanment reconnaissables. Il na pas ni de remuer le monde de
la chaussure, ce cher Nicholas, surtout pas sil est demand de Chlo
jusqu Rodarte !
Bruno Frisoni chez
Roger Vivier
!"#$%&&%'
()*+,,"'
MODE / FASHION
Nicholas
Shoes
Fetishists
Kirkwood
Pierre
Hardy
La Parisienne est perche sur des talons
vertigineux () la recherche de lindispensable
108me paire de chaussures () qui lui fera la
dmarche chaloupe, la chute de reins cambre,
le sein arrogant, le nez un peu en lair
Stella Cadente
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
MAG_05.indb 24 01/12/09 12:37
25
Christian Louboutin
Lultime icne de la chaussure sduisante, Louboutin est un nom pour lequel
nul prambule nest requis. Les semelles rouges des plus sublimes talons hauts
de nos temps sont devenues lincontestable emblme du soulier vertigineux au
fminin absolu. Convoites par toutes les femmes de la plante, de la mre de
famille la plus grande actrice, ses chaussures sont cres envue dvoquer non
seulement beaut et lgance, mais passion et exaltation. Enler une Louboutin
transforme la jambe, le corps, la manire de se porter, de se conduire. Des
chaussons magiques ? Presque
Ultimate icon of seductive footwear, Louboutin is a name that needs no
introduction. The red soles are somewhat of a legend, having graced the bottom
of the most sublime high heels ever made, exuding the most uncompromising
femininity. Its no wonder women across the world, from the stay at home mother
to the most glamorous actress, lust over these shoes. They are made to reect not
only beauty and elegance, but also passion and excitement. By simply slipping
on a Louboutin, the whole leg changes, as well as the entire body and the way a
woman carries herself. Magic slippers? Perhaps
J'aime que les femmes voient mes
chaussures comme de beaux objets,
une sorte de bijou hors mode, dou
d'un univers propre. Le soulier n'est
pas un accessoire, c'est un attribut.
Christian Louboutin
MODE / FASHION
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
ENGLI SH
MAG_05.indb 25 01/12/09 12:37
26
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
Pierre Hardy
As an absolute virtuoso of his time, Hardy generously references conceptual
art and architecture throughout his collections. Never does he shy away from
reinterpreting sculptural shapes, as doing so has become somewhat of his
trademark. Known indeed for his duality of graphic and uid lines, he nonetheless
consistently ensures the injection of sensuality in every pice. His approach being
as technical as it is allows him to set himself apart and to rise meteorically to the
top of the shoe chart. Balenciaga nabbed him in 2001 and he hasnt looked back
since, his vision harmonizing perfectly with Nicolas Ghesquires.
Bruno Frisoni
The legacy left by Roger Vivier was not going to be an easy one to live up
to for the artistic director who was going to have to assume the position at the
legendary house. However, Bruno Frisoni was up for the challenge and did not
disappoint. His lyrical approach to designing footwear is something of a poem,
having baptised his earlier collections "Bohemian Poses" or "Venus Beauty".
Frisoni brings romance and freshness to this formerly dated house currently
experiencing a comeback, all thanks to a dose of prestige administered by this
spirited designer.
Giuseppe Zanotti
Although it wasnt necessary for Mr. Zanotti to associate himself to a big prt-
-porter house for his name to be ingrained, he has now sealed his legacy in the
grand world that is luxury by creating the footwear responsible for "Balmania" that
has since lent itself to a cult following among fashionistas the world over. Having
rst charmed the Hollywood scene, fashion editors and stylists are now falling at
his feet, no pun intended. His use of fur, crystals, various textures and skins make
for a truly unique shoe.
Nicholas Kirkwood
Hes the new kid on the block, but that certainly does not make him any
less relevant. Since 2005 only, this footwear prodigy has been spreading
serious desire with his eponymous label, under which he creates wearable
pieces of art. Kirkwoods highly conceptual vertigo inducing heels may
look intimidating, however their fantasy-like quality makes them instantly
recognizable, sign of a true legend in the making. I suppose this explains
why hes in such high demand, from the French ingnue label Chlo to the
wild and edgy American house Rodarte.
Com
pl etel y crazy for boots !
Proenza Schouler
Casadei
Dior
Costume National
Christian Louboutin
Roberto Cavalli
John Galliano
Larare
* I love when women see my shoes as beautiful items, a kind of off-fashion
jewel with a world of its own. A shoe is not an accessory, it is an attribute.
Christian Louboutin
* The Parisian woman is high up on towering heels (...) looking for the vital
108th pair of shoes (...) that will give her a swinging way of walking, a curved
small of the back, a proud bosom, a slightly uplifted nose...Stella Cadente
MODE / FASHION
E
E
E
E
MAG_05.indb 26 01/12/09 12:37
27 27
MODE / FASHION
La cuissarde fait fureur sur tous les
podiums de la saison ! Quelle soit
en version chaussure de jardinage
comme chez Prada ou faon legging
la Stella McCartney, cette botte
perd sa connotation de vulgarit et
sinscrit dans les nouveaux codes de
la femme moderne.
Thi gh Hi gh boot s ar e al l t he
r age t hi s season! Whet her t hey r e
r emi ni scent of a gar deni ng cl og
l a Pr ada or whet her we conf use
t hem wi t h l eggi ngs, as seen at
St el l a McCar t ney, t hi s boot l oses
i t s r ef er ence t o i ndecency and
becomes compl et el y mai nst r eam.
Il semble quelles seront
llment cl de nimporte
quelle tenue russie*
Mamas a Rolling Stone
Marc Jacobs
Isabel Marant
Rodarte
Prada
Chanel
Cesare Paciotti
Diego Dolcini
* Looks like they will be the key element to
any successful outt. Mamas a Rolling Stone P
h
o
to
s

D
R
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
Stuart Weitzman
E
MAG_05.indb 27 01/12/09 12:37
28
Celui qui sest autoproclam lhomme le
plus super ciel du monde est pratiquement
une rockstar ! Sans doute lun des crateurs
les plus lous de notre poque, tout ce que
Karl Lagerfeld entreprend connat un succs
dmesur. Non seulement prte-t-il son crayon
la maison Chanel, Fendi ainsi qu sa marque
ponyme, mais il se veut galement photographe
la tte du Lagerfeld Gallery, o les contrats
de shootings mode se multiplient. Il cumule
galement les collaborations spciales en tous
genres : ourson en peluche griff ? Oui, madame !
Adepte de littrature et de musique, M. Chanel
est supposment lheureux propritaire dun peu
plus de 100 iPods et il se rfre ponctuellement
ses multiples bibliothques totalisant environ
300 000 livres. Lunettes fumes sur le nez, col
montant, bagues aux doigts et gants aux mains,
la seule chose dont il serait dpourvu est la
modestie, ayant af rm entre autres : Je ne
veux pas me poser trop de questions parce que
j'ai trop de facilits avec les rponses. Amen.
MODE / FASHION
KARL, JOHN & MARC
Les rois mages de la mode
K
A
R
L

L
A
G
E
R
F
E
L
D
Gaspard, Melchior et Balthazar ? Karl, John et Marc, plutt ! Ils ont chacun leur tour redni lesthtique
de leurs gnrations et prodigieusement inuenc la mode depuis leurs entres respectives en
scne. Leurs prnoms sufsent pour sy rfrer et en guise dor, de myrrhe et dencens, ces trois
mages caractrisent limage du style en lguant leur gnie aux vtements des maisons les plus
renommes. Ils passent du statut dicne celui de caricatures instantanment identiables tout en
crant tout coup les tendances et en se forgeant des personnages limage de leurs uvres. Cest
dailleurs John Galliano qui offre de sages paroles en dclarant : On devient ce que l'on cre.
Effectivement.
Caspar, Melchior and
Balthasar? More like Karl, John
and Marc! Theyve each had
their turn at redening their
generations aesthetic, having
inuenced fashion in ways
weve hardly ever seen. Known
by their rst names only, in lieu
of gold, myrrh and frankincense
these three Wise Men mark
styles modern take by lending
their talent to the worlds most
prestigious luxury houses.
Theyve all gone fromtrue icon
status to seriously unmistakable
caricatures, all the while
relentlessly creating trends and
reimagining themselves as a
reection of their work. In fact,
John Galliano once declared
that we become what we
create. Indeed.
The self-proclaimed most
supercial man on the planet is
practically a rock star! Being without
a doubt one of the most acclaimed
designers of our times, everything
Karl Lagerfeld touches seems
to turn to gold. Not only does he
hold the title of creative director at
Chanel, Fendi and his eponymous
label, but he also fancies himself
a fashion photographer, helming
the Lagerfeld Gallery under which
he shoots countless editorials.
Furthermore, he accumulates
special collaborations: brand name
teddy bear? Yes, mam! As a big
music and literature enthusiast, we
should assume that he regularly
listens to his more than 100 iPods
and consults his few 300 000 books
scattered through his countless
libraries. Never seen without his
shades, a high collar, excessive
amounts of rings and ngerless
gloves, its safe to say that the only
thing the Kaiser lacks is modesty: I
dont want to ask myself too many
questions because I always have
the answers. Amen. * Im not a
marketing person. I dont ask
myself questions. I go by instinct.
Je ne pense pas au marketing.
Je ne me pose pas de questions.
Jy vais par instinct. Karl Lagerfeld P
h
o
to
s

D
R
ENGLI SH
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
E
MAG_05.indb 28 01/12/09 12:38
29
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
Upon his arrival on the scene
he was dubbed the Enfant Terrible
of fashion due to his highly non-
commercial creations. Gallianos
been his own master ever since
he started, which served him
quite well seeing as American
Vogues ice queen, Anna Wintour,
promptly recommended him as
creative director for Christian
Dior. His inuence sprung a total
new dynamic into the house and
resonated deeply with women the
world over, having been won over
by his spin on the crosscut, thus
helping to catapult him to worship
worthy status. Due to his endless
imagination and unwillingness
to compromise, hes paved the
way for younger designers like
Alexander McQueen. His clothing
may not be for the shrinking violet,
seeing as the guy prefers bad
taste over no taste at all, but
one things for certain, theres no
getting bored at his fashion shows!
* we become what we create.
Ds son arrive, on le surnomme lenfant terrible de la
mode pour ses crations dites non commercialisables.
En effet, Galliano nen fait qu sa tte depuis ses
dbuts, ce qui lui valut une recommandation chez
Christian Dior au poste de directeur artistique de la
part de la lgendaire glaciale Anna Wintour, rdactrice
en chef du Vogue amricain. Son in uence suscite un
lan de dynamisme la maison Dior et son impact
retentit partout : les femmes sont sduites par son
interprtation de la coupe en biais, le modle avec lequel
il ancre sa marque, le propulsant au rang des crateurs
les plus aduls. Il pave le chemin pour des jeunes
comme Alexander McQueen grce son imaginaire
dbordant et son succs obtenu sans concession.
Ses crations sont peut-tre trs labores, nayant
pas t imagines pour des adeptes du minimalisme,
puisque Monsieur prfre le mauvais got labsence
totale de got , mais une chose est certaine, on ne
risque pas de sennuyer lors dun de ses d ls !
MODE / FASHION
This American splits his time
between New York and Paris, where
he spends his days reinventing
the famed Louis Vuitton leather
goods house and generating a
cult following, thus giving a new
meaning to the it bag. To top it
off, his eponymous label personies
the Big Apples fashion scene,
where Marc allows himself random
cameos in ber popular series
such as Gossip Girl and The Hills.
Practically a celebrity himself, he not
only shares his initials with the King
of Pop but hes also known for his
strokes of genius (he was infamously
canned from Perry Ellis in 1992 after
showing his grunge collection, the
one that would later launch the
entire movement in fashion). Rebel
always, recurrent theme among our
Wise Men, Marcs got over thirty
tatoos and has had his share of
rehab stints before turning his life
around a few years ago to lead a
clean living. Surely to go with one of
his mottos: I love to take things that
are everyday and comforting and
make them into the most luxurious
things in the world. Well done,
Marc! * Its quite nice to see that I
didnt have to change who I was
to reach two very different types
of people.
LAmricain de la troupe partage son temps entre New York et Paris, o
il rinvente la maroquinerie Louis Vuitton en de vritables objets cultes
vnrs par les adeptes de it bag de la plante. De plus, sa marque po-
nyme personni e la mode dans la Grosse Pomme, o Marc se permet des
apparitions dans des sries comme Gossip Girl et The Hills. Vedette son
heure, non seulement partage-t-il les initiales du roi de la pop mais il est
reconnu pour ses coups de gnie (il sest fait mmorablement remercier
de chez Perry Ellis la suite de son interprtation du grunge en 1992,
la collection qui diffusa le courant sur la surface du globe). me rebelle
toujours, thme rcurrent chez nos trois mages, il est tatou plus de 30 fois
et fait une poigne de cures de dsintox jusqu ce quil se reprenne en
main rcemment dans le but de mener une existence saine et quilibre.
Srement pour aller avec sa devise de transformer des objets quotidiens
et confortables en choses les plus luxueuses du monde. Bien jou, Marc !
J
O
H
N
G
A
L
L
IA
N
O
M
A
R
C
J
A
C
O
B
S
On devient ce que lon cre.
John Galliano
Cest plutt bien de voir que
je nai pas eu changer qui
jtais pour pouvoir toucher
deux types de personnes trs
diffrents. Marc Jacobs P
h
o
to
s

D
R
E
E
MAG_05.indb 29 01/12/09 12:38
30
COULISSES / BACKSTAGE
P
h
o
to
s
- D
io
r @
S
o
p
h
ie
C
a
rre
P
h
o
to
s
- D
io
r @
S
o
p
h
ie
C
a
rre
MAG_05.indb 30 01/12/09 12:38
31
P
h
o
to
s
- D
io
r @
S
o
p
h
ie
C
a
rre
La mode nchappe certes pas au flau de la situation conomique,
comme nous avons pu le constater. Au cours des prsentations des
collections automne hiver 2009, les grands crateurs ont su donner la
rplique la menaante situation prcaire. En effet, lors des dernires
annes nous avons assist des dfils sensationnels, tous plus labors
les uns que les autres, transforms en extraordinaires mises en scne
conceptuelles. Cependant, plusieurs designers se sont rconcilis avec
les valeurs fondamentales dautrefois, semblerait-il, en optant pour
des prsentations intimes et une liste dinvits plutt restreinte. John
Galliano chez Dior a prfr prsenter son plus rcent dfil Haute
Couture dans les salons de la maison, Avenue Montaigne, devant un
public lu et loin des extravagances des saisons antrieures. Malgr
lintimit du lieu, la collection spectaculaire prend toute la vedette
et fait oublier toute inquitude. videmment que je suis conscient
du resserrement du crdit, mais ce nest pas un resserrement de la
crativit enfin, jamais chez Dior , affirme M. Galliano. New York,
Marc Jacobs a choisi de sabstenir en fermant ses portes aux clbrits,
nautorisant que la prsence des gens de la presse, ainsi quen annulant
ses lgendaires post clbrations. Dailleurs, le Council of Fashion
Designers of America (CFDA) sest rcemment rassembl pour se
pencher sur la pertinence actuelle des grands dfils prix exorbitants.
De plus, Grace Coddington, directrice artistique du Vogue amricain,
voquait dernirement avec nostalgie le temps o le star systme
hollywoodien nempitait pas sur la sphre exclusive de la mode, un temps
o ce groupe uvrait pour lui-mme sans avoir de comptes rendre.
As one may have noticed, the world of fashion
is certainly not impervious to the afiction that is the current
precarious economy. The Fall/Winter 09 presentations had us
watching as designers were retaliating against a threatening
dubious situation. Through the years weve witnessed fashion
shows as grand spectacles, all of them more impressive
than the next. However, designers these past few seasons
seem to have given each other the word to downsize their
affair, opting instead for more intimate presentations with
a signicantly reduced audience. Could this mean a return
to more fundamental values? John Galliano at Dior went
the quiet route and showcased his most recent Couture
collection right in the salons on Avenue Montaigne to a select
crowd of a chosen few, therefore veering very far from his
previous elaborate demonstrations. However, the spectacular
collection stole the show in spite of the intimacy of the
location, leaving thoughts of money woes at the door. Of
course Im aware of the credit crunch, but it is not a creative
crunch - not at the house of Dior, anyway says Mr. Galliano.
On the other side of the Atlantic, Marc Jacobs, known for
his lavish after-parties, also held a press-exclusive show as
well as called off his after-party extravagances. Moreover,
the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) held a
round table on the subject of whether big opulent fashion
shows were still relevant in this day and age. Furthermore,
Grace Coddington, American Vogues art director, recently
mused nostalgically about fashions unhollywood past,
reecting on how these two worlds never dreamt of colliding.
Fashion Week
To downsize or to supersize ?
Prsentations des collections - Automne-Hiver 2010-2011
Fall/Winter 2010-2011 collections shown
!"#!"#$!%&%$$#!"#$! P
h
o
to
s
- D
io
r @
S
o
p
h
ie
C
a
rre
Tendance intimiste ou
ENGLI SH
MAG_05.indb 31 01/12/09 12:38
32
COULISSES / BACKSTAGE
1 - Anna Wintour
2 - Anouk Lepre
3 - Bernard Arnault - Charlize Theron
4 - Rhianna
5 - Emma Watson - Gwyneth Paltrow
6 - Dl Chanel SS10, Grand Palais
7 - Bria Valente - Prince
8 - Mary Kate Olsen
9 - Victoria Beckham - Agyness Deyn
1
2 3 4
5
8 9
6
7
P
h
o
to
s
@
D
R
MAG_05.indb 32 01/12/09 12:38
33
Nevertheless, isnt fashion a way for people to
indulge and escape? Alber Elbaz at Lanvin certainly
thinks so: "Now, everybody said, Lets do a small
show. [] If you invite only the [press], we lose the
dream. This is the time to invite the people who
dream." If the recession means tight spending for
some, it could also harvest new grand ideas for
others. Houses like Chanel are indeed proof of
the latter, having cut back neither on their guest
list nor on the extravagance of the event. The
Kaiser himself testies that [at Chanel] we have no
budget, we do what we want and throwing money
out the window brings money back in through the
front door. The bottom line is that I don't deal with
the bottom line. The luxury in my life is I never have
to think about it." The Resort 2010 presentation
was a clear manifestation of that statement, having
been set on none other than a beach in Venice in
front of a meager 350 witnesses. Not bad, seeing
as the resort season is usually revealed without
much noise and while were at it, without any
guests either. Being in the midst of an era in which
a domino effect is occurring amongst luxury houses
ling for bankruptcy protection, designers have to
nd a way to rekindle the love for fashion among
their customers and stay within the limits of good
taste by pondering what it is modern women really
require. Perhaps those needs reect the desire to
be completely taken by an amazing production set
by their favorite brand as well as purchasing clothing
that will inevitably t her lifestyle. It is certainly more
important now than it ever has been to keep the
dream alive, however that thought straddles a reality
that forces an unavoidable newfound awareness.
But if our dreams go down along with our savings,
what will remain? Must our little escapisms eclipse
all pleasure, or will the world of fashion be able to
proceed in its wonderful representations of beauty?
Although Elbaz point of view is quite charming, it
should nonetheless raise the question on the future
of fashion shows. Indeed, houses will necessarily
need to reevaluate their priorities, the evolution of
todays market and of course, their role in this entire
affair
Mais la rexion, lunivers de la mode nest-il
pas fait pour les gens qui osent rver un peu ?
Alber Elbaz chez Lanvin y croit certainement :
Maintenant tout le monde dit quon doit faire
des petits dls intimes [] Si on ninvite que
la presse, on perd le rve. Cest justement le
moment dinviter les rveurs. Si la rcession
peut signier le resserrement chez les uns, chez
les autres elle peut faire natre de nouvelles
ides qui serviront la contrer. Les maisons
comme Chanel en sont la preuve, nayant coup
ni leur liste dinvits, ni lextravagance de leurs
dls. Le Kaiser lui-mme atteste que [chez
Chanel] nous n'avons pas de budget impos et
nous faisons ce que nous voulons. Dhabitude,
largent que nous jetons par les fentres nous
revient par la grande porte. Je ne m'occupe
pas des rsultats chiffrs. Mon luxe, cest que
dans ma vie, je nai pas besoin de penser
largent . En effet, la collection Resort 2010,
une saison habituellement rserve aux
prsentations sans invits et sans esbrouffe, a
t dvoile... sur une plage de Venise, devant
quelque 350 tmoins. Au cur dune poque
o les maisons de luxe font faillite en suivant
leffet domino, les crateurs doivent faire natre
chez leurs clientes un nouvel enivrement pour
la mode et uvrer dans les limites du bon got.
Ils doivent rchir ce que la femme moderne
exige : tre transporte par une mise en scne
imagine par ses marques favorites et se vtir
selon son mode de vie. Certes, limportance
du rve est plus forte que jamais, mais celui-ci
tlscope une ralit qui rpercute une prise
de conscience invitable. Tout de mme, si nos
rves sombrent avec nos conomies, que nous
restera-t-il ? Faut-il aussi que nos chappatoires
occultent tout plaisir, ou le monde de la mode
peut-il poursuivre son merveilleux idal de
beaut ? Lavis de M. Elbaz est assurment
charmant... Reste quil serait judicieux de
sinterroger sur lavenir des dls de mode,
car les maisons devront ncessairement se
pencher sur lvolution du march et sur leur
rle dans toute cette affaire
Chez Chanel,
nous n'avons
pas de budget
impos et nous
faisons ce que
nous voulons
Dhabitude,
largent que
nous jetons
par les fentres
nous revient par
la grande porte.
K.L
At Chanel we have no budget , we do
what we want and t hrowi ng money
out t he wi ndow bri ngs money back i n
t hrough t he f ront door.
COULISSES / BACKSTAGE
Super Size Show ?
E
P
h
o
to
s
@
D
R
MAG_05.indb 33 01/12/09 12:38
50
Cet hiver, focus sur les dtails ! Le dressing masculin ne sen tient plus quaux seuls vestons bien
coups et aux chaussures bien cires, lhomme moderne prend soin de se doter daccessoires
rchis an de complter sa tenue. lallure proprement distingue, gracieuset dun cachemire
au cou, dun sac lpaule ou dun portefeuille styl, cest votre tour de vous combler. Imagins
particulirement pour le gentleman averti, les nouveaux accessoires modes sont conus avec
authentique virilit. Un luxe absolument ncessaire pour un style de vie tout fait contemporain.
Zoomin on details this winter! Menswear is no longer exclusive to sharp blazers and nicely
polished shoes, seeing as the modern man goes the extra mile by doting some well thought
out accessories to complete his look. Be prepared for a seriously distinguished allure thanks to a
cashmere scarf thrown around your neck, a great bag ung onto your shoulder, or a wonderfully
styled wallet. Dreamed up especially for the well-informed gentleman, these newaccessories have
been drafted with authentic masculinity. They will prove to be an absolutely necessary luxury for a
completely contemporary lifestyle.
ENGLI SH
MODE / FASHION
Souliers Fetish
Accessoires
La chaussure cette saison est limage du bon genre,
imposant lhomme qui la porte une
prsence des plus magistrales. Les
formes sont classiques, les silhouettes
rafnes, les matires nobles et les
teintes rsonnent dun luxe lmentaire
mais cependant surprenant avec le prune glac chez Corthay, et une mention spciale pour les souliers gris
de Santoni. Saccordant autant votre plus coquet complet qu vos tenues plus dcontractes, les souliers
lhonneur nont rien dordinaire. Ils soigneront votre dmarche, allouant un style des plus ns une lgance imprgne.
Les ttes tourneront sur votre passage, tombeur !
This season, footwear reects sophisticated air, duly conveying to its wearer an imposing presence.
Shapes are classic, silhouettes are rened, materials are regal and shades resonate with luxurious sensibility,
with unexpected glazed prunes at Corthay or patent burgundies and a special mention to the greys
at Santoni. Far from the being common, this winters shoe is sure to look as chic
paired with your most well cut suit as with your laid-back weekend
attire. No doubt they will polish your trot, granting nesse
to a rooted elegance. Youll be making heads turn,
heartbreaker!
La chaussure cette saison est limage du bon genre,
VAN LAACK
HERMS
PAUL SMITH
HUGO BOSS
LOEWE
PIERRE CORTHAY
J-B RAUTUREAU
SANTONI
E
P
h
o
to
s

D
R
Ermenegildo Zegna
MAG_05.indb 50 01/12/09 12:40