SEWING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

A. Reading comprehension: ood equipment goes a long way in making work easier (and more fun!) and in assuring good results. We cant recommend it too strongly. Buy the best you can affordyou dont need to get it all at onceand care for it with the respect that good tools deserve. measurements clearly marked on both Sewing Machine sides, starting at opposite ends. A sewing Short ruler for marking hem depth, machine is buttonholes, etc. either a plain 6" ruler, your major or a hem gauge, which combines a investment, ruler with a movable indicator. You even if the can make a hem gauge using a piece machine is of cardboard, notched at the desired second-hand. And you are not likely to mark. buy another one soon. Therefore, shop French curve - For re-drawing curved around carefully. See what the lines when a different brands and models will do, pattern is and how well they function. If your adjusted, and to budget is limited, don't worry about a use as a guide cabinet - you can always get that later. when Most portables are standard machinetransferring curved lines with tracing heads that will fit into a cabinet or paper and tracing wheel. folding table. If you prefer a portable, make sure you can lift it without strain. Industrial form Depending on the kind of work you do, Dress form simolifies fitting you may prefer a free-arm machine procedures; the type that allows you to get into tight places illustrated is fully such as cuffs. As for prices, they vary adjustable and comes greatly, depending on brand, model complete with stand. It and a variety of considerations. can be also be used to mark hemlines, label roll For Measuring lines, button and pocket Where possible, buy equipment position lines. marked with both inches and centimeters. Tape measure - Usually 60" long, with metal ends. A good tape measure must not stretch, and has

45

For

Marking

Dressmaker's tracing paper and tracing wheel - For transferring pattern markings to fabric. Paper comes in several colors to contrast with your fabric. Wheels come with teeth, for general use, or smooth for hard-tomark and delicate fabrics. Tailor's chalk - For transferring pattern markings to fabric. Clay chalk comes in several colors, in squares or in pencil form. For Pressing Here you draw on your household equipment. A good iron must be on hand, set up, and ready for use throughout any dressmaking project. A combination steam/dry iron is the most satisfactory and there are many models available; pick one that gives a good amount of steam. Press cloth - Recommended because most fabrics tend to shine if they come in direct contact with iron. Cloth can be dampened to provide the moisture for more steam. Slipcover for iron - Used in place of a press cloth. Slipped over bottom of iron, it allows a complete view of what you are pressing. Can be purchased or made.

Ironing board should be firm and well padded, its cover clean at all times.

Sleeve-board Useful for pressing seams in sleeves and other narrow spaces; the ends are good for darts and curved edges. It should be well padded (add padding as necessary, using an old blanket). Dressmaker's ham, seam roll, pressing mitt - Important pressing aids for hard-to-reach areas, shaped seams and darts. Can be purchased or made. For Sewing Needles - For hand and machine sewing. Buy quality brands only, and be sure to have on hand a variety of sizes and types. Pincushion - To avoid scattering pins. A wrist pincushion attached to a bracelet is handiest. You can buy one or make one by sewing a pincushion to a bracelet of elastic. There are many kinds, including a magnetic one to use with steel pins. Thimble - For faster, easier hand sewing, learn to use a thimble.
46

Whether it is of metal or plastic, make sure it fits the middle finger of your sewing hand. For Cutting Dressmaker shears - Shears for cutting out fabric. Bent handles allow the fabric to remain flat on the table. A 7" or 8" overall length is good, and left-hand models are available. Blades How much can you remember? Label the items in the picture.

may be plain or serrated-the latter good for cutting synthetic fabrics. Sewing and embroidery scissors For cutting buttonholes, clipping, and other precise work. Equipped with two sharp points. Most useful in a 4" or 5" overall length. Thread clipper can be kept, ready to use, in palm of hand while sewing.

Overlock machine

5 1 2 3 4 6

47

B. Speaking practice

Discuss these questions: 1. Is there a lot of sewing equipment in your workshop? What are they? 2. Do you think your workshop has enough equipment? If not, what else should your workshop have?

C. Word study

Exercise 1. Complete the list of tools and equipment.

6.

48

Exercise 2. Fill the name of the numbers:

Bust Back Waist Length Pants Length Front Shoulder to Waist Hips Crotch Depth Point of Bust Bust Front Back Width High Hip Point of Bust Sleeve Length Point of Elbow Upper Arm Thigh Skirt Length Waist

1 ............................................... 2 ............................................... 3 ............................................... 4 ............................................... ................................................. 5 ............................................... 6 ............................................... 7 ............................................... 8 ...............................................

9............................................... 10...... ...................................... 11...... ...................................... 12............................................. 13............................................. 14............................................. 15............................................. 16............................................. 17.............................................

49

D. Writing

Exercise 1. Label the pictures with the words in the box.

2 1 1 7 6 8 9 3 4 5
Pins Pattern notcher Sewing machine Embroidery scissors Strawbery pincushion Tracing wheel Dress form Steam iron Shears

1. ................................... 4 .................................... 7

2. ........................................ 5 ......................................... 8.

3. ............................. 6 .............................. 9

Exercise 2. Make sentences with the words in exercise 1.

1 ......................................................................................................................... 2 ......................................................................................................................... 3 ......................................................................................................................... 4 ......................................................................................................................... 5 ......................................................................................................................... 6 ......................................................................................................................... 7 ......................................................................................................................... 8 ......................................................................................................................... 9 .........................................................................................................................

50

E. LISTENING

Listen to part of a lecture in an education class. Then decide if each statement is true or false. If the statement is true, write T on the blank line. If the statement is false, write F on the blank line.
T ______ 1.The orginal forms were shapeless. ______ 2.The modern forms are made of plastic. ______ 3.Forms are changed annually to reflect the fashion silhouette. ______ 4.Forms are made for a wide variety of styles, size, and special garments. ______ 5.Forms are just for fitting sample garments.

51

Outlook to the world

How Do You Know If You're Using The Right Needle?
By Sarah J Doyle

Our second article excerpt from "Basic Clothing Construction" that takes the mystery out of choosing the right sewing thread for your sewing project! For part one of this series, see Choosing the Right Sewing Thread As we get caught up in trying to get sewing projects completed and move on to the next one in the limited time available it is so very easy just to jump from project to project without giving any thought to whether or not we have the right needle in the sewing machine. It can be a costly mistake to simply use the same needle for everything you sew until it breaks. The size of the needle you use depends upon the size of the fabric yarns in the fabric. The finer the yarns, the finer the needle needs to be. In general, a needle should be fine enough to penetrate the fabric without marring it, yet have a large enough eye that the thread does not fray or break during the sewing process. Needle types related to fabric structure are sharp point (regular) for woven fabrics, ball point for knits, and wedge point for leather and vinyl. The REGULAR SHARP POINT NEEDLE is ideal for all woven fabrics because it helps to produce an even stitch and causes a minimum of fabric puckering. This needle is not recommended for knits, as it has a tendency to "cut" yarns and cause skipped stitches. This needle comes in a wide range of sizes from the finest size 9 to aheavy size18. The BALL POINT NEEDLE is specifically designed for knit and elastic fabrics and has a "rounded" point rather than a sharp point. This needle pushes between the fabric yarns rather than "cutting through" the yarns. This needle comes in sizes 9 to 16 and the larger the needle size, the more "rounded" the needle point is. The WEDGE POINT NEEDLE, which is designed for leather and vinyl, easily pierces these fabrics to make a hole that will close back upon itself. This eliminates unattractive holes in the garment, and also reduces the risk of the stitches tearing the fabric. The wedge point needle comes in sizes 11 to 18. The size 11 needle is designed for soft pliable leathers,while size 18 is designed for heavy or multiple layers of leather or vinyl.

52

In addition to choosing the right TYPE of needle, it is also important to know the proper needle SIZE for the type of fabric being used. As a general rule you can utilize the following fabric category/needle size information when choosing the needle for your next project. DELICATE fabrics such as silk, chiffon, voile, fine lace and organdy would need a fine "size 9" needle. LIGHTWEIGHT fabrics such as synthetic sheers, batiste, taffeta, velvet, stretch fabric, tricot and plastic film would need a "size 11" needle. MEDIUM WEIGHT fabrics such as gingham, poplin, linen, muslin, chambray, wool crepe, flannel, knits, jersey, wool, chintz, satin, raw silk, wool suiting, stretch fabric and drapery fabrics would need a "size 14" needle. MEDIUM-HEAVY fabrics such as sail cloth, gabardine, heavy suiting, tweed and heavy drapery fabrics would need a "size 16" needle. HEAVY fabrics such as denim, overcoatings, ticking, upholstery and canvas fabrics would need a "size 18" needle. One final needle pointer is always replace dull, bent or nicked needles. If you hit a pin, you should immediately change the needle. A bent needle, even if only "slightly" bent or nicked can cause skipped stitches and can easily cause damage to your fabric by tearing the fabric yarns.

53