Académique Documents
Professionnel Documents
Culture Documents
CONTENTS
Welcome
To our May 2011 Newsletter!
I start this Newsletter after a difficult week for us on a personal level at Aromantic. Many of you may know that our dear friend and colleague Louise Hutcheson passed away suddenly on 29th March. She is very special to us and we dearly miss her smiling face and presence. Our hearts go out to her family, especially Jacqui, her big sister and her niece, Laura, who both work for us also. Thank you to those of you who have given us your kind condolences. You can read our tribute to her on pg 31. We have 12 new products for you, 8 6 April 197129 March 2011 of them organic or suitable for inclusion in natural and organic products. We have 3 new active ingredients, 2 new organic vegetable oils, 2 new organic starter packs, 2 new essential oils and excitingly a new more natural well-tested Preservative called Preservative Eco and a product home testing kit simple enough for anyone to use! This issue also has some articles, including current topics such as the Traditional Herbal Medicinal Products Directive, as well as articles about GLA-rich oils, sensory analysis, Naturals Collaboration, Market Reports on Vegetable and Essential Oils, and 4 new recipes in our Recipe Corner. We also have some very Special offers and have added Bulk Prices for many of our products. Happy Spring, may all your new ventures flourish!
New Products Special Offers Challenge test your products Bulk Prices Course Update Market Update - Vegetable Oils Market Update - Essential Oils Naturals Collaboration Flower seed oils rich in GLA Sensory Analysis Product Spotlight Traditional Herbal Medicinal Products Directive (THMPD) Recipe Corner Tribute to Louise
29-30 31
Hours of Business: 9am-5pm Mondays - Fridays 17 Tytler Street Forres Moray IV36 1EL Scotland Tel: +44 (0)1309 696900 Fax: +44 (0)1309 696911 e-mail: info@aromantic.co.uk www.aromantic.co.uk
Aromantic is a unique company on the forefront of providing organic and natural ingredients, recipes, equipment and courses for make-your-own, cruelty-free and high quality cosmetics, toiletries & beauty products. We sell these ingredients in affordable quantities for small businesses, complementary therapists, market traders, home crafters and individuals.
Louise Hutcheson
Kind regards,
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New Products
NEW ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Hyaluronic Acid Eco (100% Powder)
INCI Name: Sodium Hyaluronate
Ecocert-approved to be used in natural and organic products. A white to off-white, fine granulated powder. This is the same powder that we use when making our Hyaluronic Acid Gel by adding water and preservative to a 1:99 ratio (1% Hyaluronic Acid: 99% Water) that hereafter will be called Hyaluronic Acid Gel. This powder can be used in natural and organic classified cosmetic products. Hyaluronic Acid has the ability to absorb up to 1000 times its own weight of water, so its therefore the most efficient humectant moisturiser we have so far. Hyaluronic acid is what gives the skin its volume and fullness. It is one of the chief components of the extracellular skin matrix and it contributes significantly to cell proliferation. Aging can result in the loss of hyaluronic acid, which in turn results in skin that has less volume and the formation of wrinkles and folds. Its hydrating properties result in increased skin smoothness, softening and decreased wrinkles. Its rejuvenating properties result in increased skin smoothness and softness. It also protects the cell structure and defending against external threats and bacterial infections. It also exhibits viscous flow, elastic and pseudoplastic properties. This property is unique to HA. So you can see why it is popularly called The Fountain of Youth and it is a common ingredient in skin care products. Hyaluronic Acid can be processed either warm or cold and is incorporated into the water stage of a cosmetic formulation. The easiest way to use the Hyaluronic Acid powder is to sprinkle 1 gram of it to 100ml/g of 20-50C water/other liquids such as organic hydrolates, infusions or decoctions. Blend with an electric stick blender until it becomes like a gel. You now have a 1% solution gel without any preservatives. You then need to use it straight away by adding it during the water stage or third stage to your creams, lotions or gels. Please note: just to remind you, when if you make a water-based commercial product like a cream or gel with a shelf life, you will need to add a preservative to your product. If you need to store the rest or part of this gel you need to add the appropriate preservative to it immediately, e.g. 1% Preservative Eco.
Tip: 1%= 1 gram of powder per 100ml/g of products such as creams and gels (The same concentration that we
use to make Aromantics Hyaluronic Acid Gel that we already sell.)
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You cannot add the powder or gel to an oil serum but you can add the powder directly in the water stage to a cream or lotion and heat it up while whisking until the water stage ingredients have been raised to a temperature over 75C and the powder has been thickened. Beware that if you use more than 0.5% (0.5g per 100ml/g) of the powder with this method then the water stage can become too thick to work with. It is approx. 20% cheaper for you to make up the powder into a gel solution than buying the Hyaluronic Acid Gel from us. For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-hyaluronic-acid-eco-uk.htm 5g 48 Ref: 88001 10g 79 Ref: 88002 30g 158 Ref: 88003
Skinbright Active
INCI: Crambe Abyssinica (98%), Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate (2%). Skin brightening mix that weve blended at Aromantic with our organic crambe seed oil, which helps to give it an extra natural silicon feeling. Shelf life: 2-3 years. This is a new, very good and safe skin brightener/lightener, which is newly patented and shows no cytotoxic effects, nor any irritation or sensitisation reaction.
Induces a significant lightening effect on the skin, at the same time that fights against photoaging. Acts by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Exhibits a considerable lightening in-vivo effect on the skin Has a completely safe profile Shows good stability in formulations Possesses a photoprotective effect on the human epidermal keratinocytes, helping to prevent skin damage caused by UV radiation Unlike other skin brighteners/lighteners that cause irritation and sensitivity due to the sun, Skinbright Active actually helps to prevent skin damage caused by UV radiation 190% increase in cell viability Exhibits a better dipigmenting effect than Kojic Acid and Arbutin, and similar to Hydroquinone Does not affect melanocyte growth, while Hydroquinone cytotoxicity was clearly observed A cream containing 5% Skinbright Active induces a significant brightening effect after 30 and 60 days Skinbright active reduced the appearance of melasma (dark skin discolourations that appears on sunexposed areas of the face) by 72% and lentigines (sun spots, age spots or liver spots) by 67% after 60 days of treatment It is blended with Crambe Seed Oil, which gives the product a smooth, silky, silicon feeling and enhances it as the oil works as a skin feel-modifier (Please see more information about Crambe Seed Oil in this Newsletter)
Kojic Acid was very efficient but was found that it could cause skin damage so was recently banned in many countries. Skinbright Active has shown better efficiency than Kojic Acid and is very safe to use.
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Benefits
When used on our skin, it is excellent as an enzyme peeling product, it literally helps to peel away dead skin cells Good also for bruises, sprains and sore muscles (combine with Arnica and Comfrey raw materials) Gently removes skin cells from the surface - has a light cosmetic effect and does not give cell stimulation of regenerative abilities of skin that deep skin peeling treatments do Unblocks pores Makes skin smoother, brighter and softer Assists the renewal of skin on its top layer Reduces visibility of skin discolouration and sun spots Fights deep wrinkles Retextures dry, flaky skin
Use 3-6% as a replacement for moisturisers that youd normally use e.g. glycerine or sorbitol in: Peeling products such as Peeling Creams, Lotions and Gels Exfoliating Products such as Exfoliating Creams, Lotions and Gels Scrubs for body, hand and feet Hand and Foot Creams to soften the skin together with Carbamide Crystals
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Related Products
For peeling purposes
Combine with AHA Natural Fruit Acids (which includes Glycolic Acid) And Aloe Vera, which both contain fruit enzymes that both heal, soften and peel, but also counteract the harsh effects of even the mildest of all peelers.
Cautions
Pregnant women and people taking blood thinning medication should avoid it. Do not add plain glycerine to your recipe when adding this product to your recipe This product can also replace Sorbitol that I recommend using in exfoliating and Peeling products.
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-papaya-glycerine-extract-uk.htm 100ml 5L 4.90 115.45 Ref: 8840 500ml 17.40 Ref: 8841 1L 31.35 Ref: 8842
NEW PRESERVATIVE
Preservative Eco
INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic Acid. We are delighted to introduce a new broad spectrum preservation system based on a combination of ingredients that is both ECOCERT and COSMOS approved. (Cosmos is a European organic standard has been created by an alliance of 5 of Europe's leading organic certifiers: The Soil Association UK; BDIH Germany; Cosmebio France; Ecocert France; ICEA. Preservative Eco meets ECOCERT standards for use in natural and organic skin and hair care products. Its four components, Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic Acid, are all well accepted in a wide range of personal care products. This novel composition of this antimicrobial blend offers broad spectrum protection in a diverse range of products, against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, yeast and moulds. It is clear liquid with a mild smell.
Meets ECOCERTS and COSMOS standards Non-paraben, non-formaldehyde, non-isothiazolone based preservative system Has wide global regulatory acceptance. Low odour profile; ideal for fragrance-free and fragrance-sensitive formulations. Compatible with a wide range range of skin, hair and sun care formulations. Safe to use in products with a wide range of pH values (3-8). Excellent safety profile. Can be used in products with detergents, unlike Preservative 12
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Usage:
It is very important that Preservative Eco is added to your recipes for which heating is necessary when the temperature is below 45C. So the best is to add the preservative in the third stage of making creams and lotions. However, every personal care formulation requires special attention. It is always important to ensure that every newly developed or altered formulation be challenge-tested to guarantee proper preservation.
Caution:
Due to the Salicylic Acid component in Preservative Eco, do not use it in products for children under 3 years of age, except in rinse-off products such as shampoos, shower gels, etc.
Change 1-2 products first, not all the products in your range. Do your own stability test, Newsletter 32. If still uncertain, get our Micrcount Combi test kit. If still not convinced, get your product challenge-tested. For more information see pg 14. Ideally, dont start selling your test products containing your new preservative until 6 months have passed from production date.
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-preservative-eco-uk.htm 30ml 1L 3.95 37.90 Ref: 7616 Ref: 7619 100ml 5L 7.90 149.60 Ref: 7617 500ml 19.90 Ref: 7618
Click links for our challenge test results, which can be found in our Natural Skin Care Library on our website: Active Cream 1: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/pdf/Challenge_Test_Active_Cream_1_Preservative_Eco.pdf Mature Cream: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/pdfChallenge_Test_Mature_Skin_Cream_Preservative_Eco.pdf
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Skin Care
It has unique qualities for skin care. Crambe Seed Oil is an excellent natural lubricant and emollient. It has a unique skin-feel, combining a light texture with enhanced slip properties, without feeling too greasy; this is attributed to its special lipid profile. Crambe Seed Oil has superior stability compared to other oils and this combined with its enhanced slip properties make it an ideal natural alternative to mineral oils and silicones. Just 1000kg has been produced organically and the product and its low profile is a bit of a trade secret. It is a long and soft oil perfect for long strokes in massage. Compared to Jojoba Oil, Crambe Seed Oil has much larger quantities of Erucic Acid. Crambe Seed Oil is similar to Broccoli Seed Oil with both around 50% Erucic Acid (C22:1), an Omega-9 fatty acid that helps to give a glossy shine to hair just like silicone would. It also gives shine and gloss to dull and lifeless skin. The oil is now becoming increasingly popular as a natural option to silicone in hair and styling products where shine and lustre is needed. Crambe, however, is much cheaper and is oilier.
Efficacy data
Trials carried out by UK formulation experts have identified that Crambe oil has a unique skin-feel and lubricity. It helps protect the skin surface from drying whilst improving barrier function. Application of the oil directly to the skin leaves it feeling softer and smoother whilst not drying out as quickly as some other oils.
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Creams for lustre and shine use 5-8% Massage Oils for whole body massage use 10-40% Massage Creams and Lotions use 10-30% Lotions use 2-5% Balms (Ointments) use 5-30% Lip Care 10-20% Hair Treatment Oils use 5-25% Hair Packs use 5-25% Hair Conditioners - use 2-6%
Please see pages 25-27 for more information, for recipes see pg 30. For website description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-crambe-seed-oil-organic-uk.htm 100ml 1L 4.50 29.90 Ref: 87006 Ref: 87008 500ml 5L 17.90 119.60 Ref: 87007 Ref: 87009
Skin Care
Leaves are anodyne (pain-killing), antibacterial, astringent, demulcent, mucilaginous and vulnerary, the flowers are demulcent (forms a soothing film on the skin), emollient and mucilaginous (which means that is softens and soothes and reduces irritation), moist and sticky. Mullein contains natural tannins, which are wrinkle-fighters and so its an excellent choice for skin-lifting products, especially when use din combination with pumpkin seed oil. Mullein Flower Macerated Oil has the added benefits of being especially good for easing frostbite, haemorrhoids (combine with Horse Chestnut Oil) and to soothe and heal bruises (combine with Arnica Oil).
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Related products
For more information about Mullein Oil
The Aromantic Guide to the Powerful Health and Rejuvenation Benefits of Vegetable Oils.
In Hair Packs
Blend mullein oil with jojoba and/or crambe seed oil.
Face-Lifting products
Blend mullein oil with pumpkin seed oil, remodelling intense and hyaluronic acid. For specific fatty acid content, see our free Newsletter no 24. Click http://www.aromantic.co.uk/newsletter.htm to access Newsletter archives (you may need to sign up if you havent already done so). For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-mullein-flower-oil-organic-uk.htm 30ml 1L 5.30 91.90 Ref: 87001 Ref: 87004 100ml 12.90 Ref: 87002 500ml 48.90 Ref: 87003
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Skin Care
Its superb for dry, sensitive and/or tired-looking skin. It makes skin soft and is a good humectant to add to hand creams. It helps with skin irritations and itchiness (combine with comfrey and chickweed products).
Dosage:
Use 1-2% in Creams, Lotions, Ointments, Oil Serums, Face Oils, Body Oils and other Vegetable Oil Blends.
Related Products
For more information about Rice Bran Oil
The Aromantic Guide to the Powerful Health and Rejuvenation Benefits of Vegetable Oils.
In Hand Creams
Combine rice bran oil with olive, crambe seed and jojoba oils for skin protection and softness.
In Body Oils
Blend rice bran oil with apricot kernel, peach kernel and rosehip oils; and chamomile products.
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NEW EQUIPMENT
Mikrocount Combi
A simple test tube to challenge test your product like cream, lotion, gel, shampoos, etc for bacterial, yeast and mould growth. The testing can be done by people without microbiological training and special laboratory testing is not necessary. NB There is no legal requirement to challenge test your cosmetic products, but you may want to prove your own preservative scheme is working or simply raise the standards of your production methods. If you want a more comprehensive challenge test for your products, then contact Microbiological Consultant Services. See page 14. Every Mickocount Combi sent out will be accompanied by a colour brochure with full instructions and colour illustrations to help you determine the total bacterial, yeast and fungi counts. The brochure is in English, Polish, Dutch, German, French and Spanish. Please see page our website for more information. Be aware that the Mikrocount Combi tube comes to us with a maximum shelf life of 6-7 months. The expiration date is marked on the tube. The tubes should be stored unopened at room temperature (about + 20 C) and protected from draught and light. The slides must not be allowed to freeze.
Product benefits
Easy to use - without any preparation time, the slide can be used to test surfaces, semi-solid materials and liquids. Quick and convenient - always handy and reliable to use even at last minute. No special laboratory equipment is necessary. Economical - the previous time-consuming laboratory work for preparing nutrient media, producing dilution series and counting colonies is eliminated. In addition, the considerable costs of external laboratory are saved. Accurate and reliable - the strict standards to which mikrocount combi is produced guarantee a product of consistent excellent quality. Detection of bacteria and moulds - with mikrocount combi, bacteria, yeasts and moulds can be separately detected with a single dip-slide. Simple to use - sampling and evaluation can be carried out even by personnel who have no training in microbiology. Safe - incubated samples are evaluated in sealed tubes which risks of contamination are avoided.
1x
3.95
Ref: 9383
5x
14.90
Note: In stock end of May - supplier is awaiting a new batch with a longer shelf life.
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Their website is http://www.mcs.uk.net and you simply fill in a form with no recipe details revealed and then send your products along to them. The challenge/efficacy test takes one month to complete. Please contact Microbiological Consultancy Services directly.
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Special Offers
FATS AND WAXES
In connection with price reductions, we have also added prices for 5kg on all of them and 10kg and up to 25kg for some of them. That makes buying in bulk always cheaper and easier for you.
Cocoa Butter
Cocoa Butter (non-Organic) has 10% discount and we sell it now in quantities up to 25kg with a price down to only 9.55/kg!
Shea Butter
Both Shea Butter, Deodorised and Filtered (Organic) and Shea Butter, Filtered (Organic) now have the same prices and new quantities as we have secured both types at the same prices: 500g WAS 13.70 NOW 9.40 1kg WAS 23.90 NOW 14.90 5kg WAS 69.30 NOW 59.60 (Costs only 11.92/kg!)
Mango Butter
Weve also reduced the prices for Mango Butter.
The new quantities of Shea Butter, Deodorised and Filtered (Organic) and Shea Butter, Deodorised (Organic): 10kg 109 Cost per kg only 10.90/kg!
25kg 229 Cost per kg only 9.16/kg! To order fats and waxes online, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-natural-organicvegetable-fats-waxes-skin-care-cosmetics-uk.htm
Swedish Beeswax
All quantities have been reduced in price by 10%
SAVE 10%
Some fats and waxes are half their original price & many are now available in bigger quantities!
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Special Offers
Glycerine Soap Bases Non-Organic Glycerine Soap Base Blend (SLS-free)
5kg WAS 33.30 NOW 30.50 11.5kg WAS 72.50 NOW 64.90 (Each kilo costs only 5.64/kg) 23kg WAS 129.40 NOW 119.80 (Each kilo costs only 5.20!)
Save: 2.80!
Save: 7.60!
Save: 9.60!
Beta Detergent
Larger quantities reduced
SAVE 25%
Pearlescent Colours
Quantities of 10g, 50g and 250g
D-Panthenol
Emulsifiers
Cetyl alcohol
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Bulk Prices
Essential Oils
We have tried to keep bulk prices on organic essential oils, but due to the volatile market its always possible to keep prices for long. Therefore please call us if you want bigger quantities than we have up on our website.
Tinctures
We now sell in 500ml quantity so you can stock up.
Emulsifiers
We now sell most of our Emulsifiers up to 25kg so if you buy 25kg of Emulsifier you pay just 15.50/kg instead of 26.90/kg if you buy 1kg.
Colours
Both Normal Pigments and Pearlescent Colours weve started selling these up to 1kg and then also at generally lower prices. For all of these see our website for updated prices. http://www.aromantic.co.uk
Course Updates
Our courses in both Forres and London are filling up very fast but we still have some spaces in Forres for May 19-28. It looks as though most of our courses in London this June/July will be fully booked and we foresee waiting lists. At the time of writing this, we already have 20 students for both Advanced Hair Care Products, Anti-Wrinkle Products and Mens Grooming products and the limit is 25. Our Coloured Make-up Day 1 (Beginners) on Friday 24th June is already fully booked. Due to popular customer demand (translation: begging and pleading!) we have set up a new Coloured Make-up Day 1 on the Thursday 23rd June at the same venue in London. We may be able to provide and extra Make-up Day 2 but for Day 3 we have no suitable venue. There is a 20-student limit per day for Make-up Courses. So book in time to avoid disappointment! To view or book Aromantic courses, click here: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/courses-making-natural-skin-care-cosmetic-products-uk.htm
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Almond Oil
Cold and wet weather in California gives concern for the big harvest of almonds there and also less activity (colony collapse disorder) by the bees will lead to insufficient pollination.
Palm Oil
Palm Oil prices have reached a 3-year high. Because of flooding in Malaysia, a substantial production decline is expected. The reports have come down by approximately 4-5% in December and January, which against rising demand cause firm prices.
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Sunflower Oil
Smaller harvest volumes and unusually low stocks are the basic reason for a remarkably lower production of sunflower oil. This means that the supply for nearby positions is limited and that higher premiums have to be paid in comparison to other vegetable oils. As sunflower remains the most important cooking oil in Russia and the Ukraine, there is already a trend to reduce the export volumes to secure local demand at reasonable prices. Because of this in October 2010 alone the global market price increased by 15%.
Jojoba Oil
Due to poor harvests in Argentina, the prices have rocketed up for Jojoba and more than doubled in just a few weeks. Aromantic have secured 150 litres at a reasonable price. I already warned about price increases in my last newsletter and due to that most of the large stock I had secured then has been bought up. Just to remind you that Jojoba Oil can keep for up to 5 years.
Orange
The availability of Orange Oil appears insufficient to meet demand. A dismal crop in Brazil combined with a diminishing crop in Florida due to cold weather has brought prices to historic highs. As an example, nonorganic Orange Essential Oil has in just a few weeks, increased by 6 times.
Lemon
Dry weather has contributed to significantly lower volumes of lemon oil from Argentina. At present we estimate that the reduction in oil will be greater than 30%. Production in Spain will be down by 50%. We get our Lemon Oil from Central America, but due to the reduced production worldwide, the price will surely increase.
Lavender
For the third year in a row, the crop is very poor. This, combined with no carryover oil, makes for limited supply & high prices. Its also reported that the flowers oil content is 60% lower than previous years & that this year farm/distillation costs are at last years selling prices which has put added pressure on prices and availability.
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Good News
Quoting from Personal care Magazine www.personalcare magazine.com
Naturals Collaboration
The Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) and The International Natural and Organic Cosmetic Association (NATRUE), have signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) to help raise awareness of the importance of naturally sourced cosmetics products and the ethical trade in natural ingredients derived from biodiversity. This collaboration will enhance the work of UEBT and NATRUE towards responsible supply chain management, transparency to consumers, and advancing international targets to halt biodiversity loss set by the United Nations Convention on Biological Diversity. With consumer demand for natural and organic cosmetics ever growing, companies are increasingly looking to use ingredients from natural resources. If done in an ethical and sustainable way, sourcing from nature can really add value to biodiversity at a local level and help motivate its protection, said executive director of UEBT, Rik Kutsch Lojenga. UEBT stands for sourcing with respect', said Julie Tyrell, director general of NATRUE. Its members commit to sourcing natural ingredients in a way that conserves biodiversity and respects traditional knowledge while sharing benefits with those who harvest the ingredients and make them available. These are values close to the heart of the natural and organic cosmetics sector. The more our sector grows, the more important this becomes. It is a great chance to promote biodiversity and we decided to work together to make it happen. The MOU between UEBT and NATRUE, both created in 2007, will allow the two organisations to further collaborate, share insights and explore common opportunities and challenges. The membership base of the organisations is complementary, with NATRUEs strong roots in Europe and increasingly the US, and UEBTs strength in Latin America and Africa. Useful links: http://www.natrue.org http://www.ethicalbiotrade.org
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Overall a younger and smoother appearance of the skin can be achieved by supplying gamma linolenic acid (GLA) from flower seed oils.
Application
Topical1, oral2,3 Topical1, oral2 Topical1, oral2 Oral2,3 Oral2,3 Oral2,3
Scientific References
1: Nissen, H.P., H. Biltz, and R. Muggli, Borage oil. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 1995. 110(10): p. 71-73, 76. 2: M uggli, R., Systemic evening primrose oil improves the biophysical skin parameters of healthy adults. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2005. 27(4): p. 243-249. 3: Brosche, T. and D. Platt, Effect of borage oil consumption on fatty acid metabolism, transepidermal water loss and skin parameters in elderly people. Archives of Gerontology and Geriatrics, 2000. 30(2): p. 139-150. 4: H enz, B.M., et al., Double-blind, multicentre analysis of the efficacy of borage oil in patients with atopic eczema. British Journal of Dermatology, 1999. 140(4): p. 685-688.
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Sensory Analysis
A scientific discipline used to measure, analyse and interpret the characteristics of a product as they are perceived by the 5 senses
Measurement of Characteristics
Any aspect of a particular formulation can be measured. It is normally done by producing reference samples at the two extremes of the characteristic being measured. For example to measure viscosity you would have a very thick cream as the high reference ranked at 10, and a very thin cream ranked 1. Any cream can then be ranked 1 to 10.
Sensory analysis example: Anti-Aging Light Lotion for women aged 30-45 years old with combination/oily skin
Brief
(qualities you want for the product you are making) Light skin feel Perception of mildness No greasy feel Light film on skin Matte finish on skin
Please note: we dont offer this professional scientific service analysing each of our products or vegetable oils - it is for your information only. However, many of the characteristics and properties of vegetable oils are discussed & described in my book, The Aromantic Guide to Unlocking the Powerful Health and Rejuvenation Benefits of Vegetable Oils. http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-unlocking-the-powerful-health-rejuvenation-benefits-of-vegetable-oils-the-aromanticguide-to-uk.htm +44 (0)1309 696900 www.aromantic.co.uk Page 23
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Spotlight on...
CRAMBE SEED OIL (ORGANIC)
Crambe oil is an inedible seed oil, extracted from the seeds of the Crambe abyssinica, a multibranched annual plant part of the mustard family that is native to the Mediterranean. Its also good that it can grow on marginal land that is not suitable for normal crops. Crambe seed has 28 to 30 percent protein. The primary products from crambe seed include oil (around 35%), meal (64-69%) and hulls (3%). The oil content is nearly twice that of soybeans and 8 to 9 percent more than rapeseed. The primary fatty acids in the seed oil are erucic acid (approx. 55%). Interest in crambe oil originally focused on the high percentage of erucic acid, which had significant implications for industrial uses, specifically the plastics industry. Crambe oil's ability to withstand high temperatures and remain liquid at low temperatures make it a quality lubricant and transfer oil. Because it is a very effective lubricant and much more biodegradable than mineral oils, this oil may be used alone or as additives for the textile, steel and shipping industries. The oil can also be used in pharmaceuticals, coating agents, cosmetics, nylon and perfumes. More recently it is also being considered as an oil for use in biofuel production, because its oil content ranges from 35 to 60 percent with potential yields of over 2,000 pounds per acre. The seed contains 30-35% oil. It has the same qualities as Jojoba Oil due to the high quantities of wax esters and erucic esters, which give a silicon skin feeling. In industry, Crambe Seed Oil has been used as a lubricant, we understand that this property is just as useful for skin care purposes and gives whole body massage oils fantastic lubricating properties. Because it offer excellent glide, it will also be good for adding to body lotions. Aromantics Organic Crambe Seed Oil is produced from the seeds of Organic Crambe Abyssinica, under UK Soil Association Certified Organic processes, by means of pressing below 60 C. The oil has a feint, neutral odour and a colour typically ranging from light to golden yellow. As this oil is unrefined, there is some variation and appearance and odour but this is normal. Crambe oil will go cloudy at temperatures below 20 C and will set into a waxy semi-solid below about 8 C. Aromantics Organic Crambe Seed Oil is an excellent highly stable natural lubricant and emollient. It has a unique skin-feel combining a light texture with enhanced slip properties without feeling too greasy this is attributed to its unique lipid profile. Due to its high stability Crambe could also be considered as a natural alternative to mineral oils and silicones. It gives a product a soft, smooth and silky feeling and the skin a radiance, shine and youthful appearance. Due to
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Caution: Crambe Seed Oil is not suitable for internal consumption due to its high erucic acid content.
4.6% 8.3%
73.3%
7%
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*TEWL=Transepidermal Water Loss *AOM (Active Oxygen Method) Rancimat method = Both methods evaluate the effects of antioxidants on oils and food products containing oils and fats. The Rancimat instrument is more efficient and effective while AOM is said to be a more complicated method.
Recommended Uses/Applications
We recommend Crambe Seed Oil for use in products which are designed to give enhanced slip/lubricity and protection. Due to its high stability and skinfeel, Crambe oil may be suitable as a natural replacement for synthetic oils such as mineral oils and silicones.
Applications include:
Massage Oils Hair Conditioning Lotions Shaving Products Lip Balms Dry Skin Lotions Please see pages 8-9- for more information, for recipes see pg 30. For website description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-crambe-seed-oil-organic-uk.htm
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A message from Kolbjorn about the Traditional Herbal Medicinal Products Directive (THMPD)
Regarding the new European directive legislation coming into force 1 May 2011, I have been talking to people in the industry and the general consensus seems to be that you dont need to worry if you make purely cosmetic products that contain herbs in them but more will become clear in the months ahead. The problem comes when you make medical claims for the product when selling them to the public. However, if you are a qualified herbalist or aromatherapist and you sell the products to your clients as part of the consultation, then that appears to be easier. We can still sell tinctures that we have in stock before 1st May (this stock is called legacy stock) for 2 years. After that we will only be able to sell approved tinctures. Please dont ask us which they are thats very much in progress at the moment and not under our control but alcoholic extracts of single herbs seem to come out the best so far in this law. We are also looking into the possibility of making glycerine-extracted herbs in the future. As the main threat in the future appears to be to the herbal tinctures that we stock, we at Aromantic have a very large stock of tinctures and we have made 500ml sizes available on our website to cater for our customers who want to stock up. We are also allowed to sell our legacy stocks for two more years and by then we should have other types of extracts to replace them with. In the meantime make your voice heard by signing the Alliance for Natural Health petition against this fastapproaching Directive. You can watch this free video outlining important information on European directive against natural health and herbal remedies. http://www.savenaturalhealth.eu/ The video ends with a link to a petition you can sign. AVAAZ also have a petition you can sign at http://www.avaaz.org/en/ eu_herbal_medicine_ban/ There are 32,000 of you on our email list if we all sign the petition and pass it on top your contacts, we can make a difference!
To a healthy future for all of us, Kolbjorn Fatty Acid Content of Rice Bran CO2 Extract
2.5% Breakdown of fatty acid content average breakdown of Rice Bran CO2 Extract
Saturated Fatty Acid
Palmitic Acid 12-22% Stearic Acid 0.5-4% Arachidic Acid 1.2% Behenic Acid 1% Eicosenic Acid 1% Myristic Acid 1% Oleic Acid 0.5-4% Palmitoleic Acid 0.5% Linoleic Acid 29-45% Alpha Linolenic Acid 2.5%
45% 4.5%
30.2%
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KEY POINTS
The ANH-Intl/EBF judicial review of the THMPD is backed by a broad cross-section of European herbal interests, many of whom have agreed to provide evidence Judicial review has become necessary largely because of flaws in the Directive's text and implementation, plus failure of diplomacy and lobbying Disproportionality, transparency and discrimination represent legal grounds for the judicial review Judicial review seeks to reform, not overturn, the THMPD, with the ultimate goal of a regulatory system inclusive of all traditions and practitioner-prescribed products A superb legal team will fight the judicial review, giving it every chance of success
Useful links:
Please watch this free video outlining important information on a crazy new European directive against natural health and herbal remedies. http://www.savenaturalhealth.eu/. The video ends with a link to a petition you can sign. AVAAZ, which is an organisation that seems to move mountains, also have a petition you can sign at http://www.avaaz.org/en/eu_herbal_medicine_ban/ Thank you. Video by ANH to challenge the European directives threat to the free use of traditional herbs. http://www.anh-europe.org/videos/anh-challenge-to-eu-threat-to-traditional-herbs
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Recipe Corner
New Recipes for Cold Emulsifier
Natural Leave-in Hair Conditioner
NB: This product involves heating. Makes 100ml. Stage 1 (70-75C) Stage 2 (70-75C) Stage 2 (70-75C) Stage 4 (75-80C) 6g Cold Emulsifier
3g Crambe Seed Oil 9g Shea Butter 8ml/g Sunflower Oil 72ml Still Spring Water 0.2g Xanthan Gum 1g Preservative Eco 10-12 drops Essential Oils 0.3g Vitamin E Oil (undiluted)
Salt Scrub
Not heated. NB The Body Scrub will turn to milk when rinsed off or used on wet skin. Makes 100ml. Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3 20g Cold Emulsifier 63g Olive Oil 16g Fine Sea Salt 10-12 drops Essential Oils 0.3g Vitamin E Oil (undiluted)
4) 5) 6)
2)
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Recipe Corner
Recipes for Crambe Seed Oil
Crambe Seed Whole Body Massage Oil
For dry, mature and sensitive skin. Makes 100ml. 30ml 25ml 20ml 20ml 4ml 0.5g 0.5ml/g (10-12 drops) Crambe Seed Oil Jojoba Oil Apricot Kernel Oil Avocado Oil Thistle Oil Vitamin E Oil Essential Oils
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In memory of Louise
It is with great sadness that we have to inform you of the sudden passing away of our dear friend and colleague, Louise Hutcheson, on 29th March 2011, just four days after her family discovered that she had a very aggressive and rare cancer. Louise was, for many you, your first contact with Aromantic as she answered your phone calls and returned your emails and queries, always with good humour and a smile. Her sister Jacqui, and her niece, Laura, also work here at Aromantic. Louises funeral was held on Tuesday 5th April, the day before what would have been her 40th birthday, and over 300 people, most wearing something purple at Louises request, came to pay their respects to this remarkable woman. Well all miss her presence, sense of humour, mischievousness, and most of all her radiant smile, which always extended to her beautiful eyes.
On the day of Louises 40th birthday, as the staff at Aromantic gathered for morning coffee, 6 April 1971 - 29 March 2011 a purple balloon blew up the lane and tapped on the window before disappearing from view. We all laughed, saying that it was our Louise stopping by to say hello. Imagine our surprise when another member of staff walked in asked about the purple balloon that was wedged between a pallet that had just been delivered and the outside wall beneath the window! We brought in the balloon and it has since been given to Louises big sister, Jacqui, who gave it to her Dad.
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Farewell, our lovely Louise we will always remember you with love and laughter...and a few tears.
+44 (0)1309 696900 www.aromantic.co.uk Page 31