Carburator Rebuild

CARBURATOR REBUILD
© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 1

PLEASE NOTE:
these are 755 carbs.
You're a fool if you don't read Randakks website before diving into a carb rebuild.
This rebuild is based on his

GL1000 Master Carb Overhaul Kit
OK here we go:
First: detach the carbs from the bike.
I'm not going into that here, as it is just a matter of following your
manual. One thing though; I do believe they fail to mention that
removing the air cut valve assembly, make the process a lot easier.
Here they are
'normal' amount of filth and dirt and what have you

Same thing at the back (and a sneak preview of the intestines)
generally a lot of signs of neglect and heavy handed use of silicone liquid gasket or
whatever it is

more silicone AND epoxy glue(!). What is going on here?
..more....er....stuff, inside

obviously one or more carbs have been leaking for a very long time:
witch is confirmed by the build up on the engine block
Time to dismantle this thing. (At that point I had the vacuum chambers off. No need to do
that) Remove the linkages (or rather; as little as possible of it)
to prepare for splitting the plenum/air chamber

through out the process; take a LOT of pictures. You will NOT remember what this looked
like next Sunday when you get around to do the assembly of the bugger.-)
try keeping the parts in 'batches'.
..theses are some of the screws that hold together the two haves of the plenum/air
chamber

mine took a LOT of struggling to get off
but eventually the gave up the fight against my immense amount of raw muscle power....ho
ho
CRAAAACK!

...carefull you don't loose these litttle ...er....pins? dowels?
..remove the 4 slow air hoses (between carbs and plenum) from plenum and remove bolts
inside plenum that attaches the carbs.
carefully remove the two-carb assembly (you have NOT removed the crome thingie that
holds together the two crbs)

...careful, you don't want to loose this little link that ....er...links the two carbs. (it will stay
put, but if you go into further dismantling it's easily lost)
these (two for each carb) are loose. Remove.
(you'll not find those on the very earliest GL1000)

remove vacuum chamber and pistons

SO THIS IS AS FAR AS YOU'D WONNA DISMANTLE IF YOU GO
THE "RANDAKK" WAY!
That is to say; don't split them up into individual carbs.
keep them together two and two.
For various reasons I'm going all the way in this thread.
You don't need to!
...and PHEW it can be a 'bit' confusing if you haven't done it before:
I counted 472 (fourhundredseventytwo) parts here and then everything became a tad
blurry.-)

Now's the time to make a system so you keep things separated and
in 'sets'.

As a minimum for each carb; Carb body/vacuum chambers/pistons are to be kept as an
assembly I scratch numbers (1 for carb 1 parts and so on) into all the above mentioned
parts
Remove needles from pistons.

There's a screw down there:

remove float bowls
they most probably look something like this..eeek

..or worse
remove float pivot pin VERY VERY VERY VERY carefully. It's not uncommon that the 'arms'
that holds the pin breaks

I used a sharp...er...none-screwdriver, and tapped on it ever-so-carefully ..till I could get a
grip with a set of plyers ..pulled them out in a STRAIGHT line
Remove floats.
Remove primary and secondary main jets
(forgot to take picture so this is an 'installation' pic.

New o-rings and all)
Remove fuel inlet/filter screen holder

have a long good look at the state they're in:
The float needles-- look on the black tit--clean it with contact cleaner or carb
cleaner. Use some sort of lint-less rag to dry it off. With a magnifing glass
carefully inspect the black tit for any ring around the middle. If there is a ring
then it should be replaced. Ideally the SEAT should also be replaced....[snip]...
Also check the spring return on the other end. It should push in and out with
spring tension pushing it back out. If stuck then replace the valve.
( From Ray Wooldridge )
If the screen is broken; order a new one.

If it's really messed up; order a new one.
Chuck Kichline calls them
"Your hidden enemy. There's a tiny fuel filter behind every float valve seat.
I had one plug up and cause dropout at higher speeds"
The inlet screen/seat/needle assembly is still available.

Part # 16011-371-305. 15-20$
..floats.
Nothing's broken....fine

Remove the small rubber-plug on top of the 'slow jet' tube. Unscrew 'slow jet'
from the top (as on photo) CAREFULLY press out secondary nozzle and primary nozzle, with
a soft instrument/tool, a piece of softish plastic or wood.
If you feel any hard resistance; soak them in your favorite brand of penetrating oil, untill
they can be pressed out without force.

Look at that !!!!
secondary nozzle / slow jet / primary nozzle....aurg!
at least I've found an excuse for this exercise .-)
..gain access to the primary and secondary air jets by removing this screw

using a small screwdriver, screw out jets
now for the 'slow air jets'. Remove rubber air tube
and unscrew jet.

(Later US(?) models have a different kind of slow air jet witch is not to be removed. Sealed'
or something. Maybe some of you can enlighten me on that)
remove pilot screw
don't forget: there's a spring down there:
Please; do yourself a favor: make some kind of system to keep your parts separated in an
orderly manner!

...don't throw ANYTHING away yet.
My system is: the minute I, let's say, put on a new O-ring, I remove the old one from my
plastic tray. First of all; I have the old one for reference and I can keep track of witch parts
has been renewed.
Now could be the time to check if everything moves freely. This choke butterfly certainly
did not. It took two days of soaking in WD40 to free it, (yes; WD40 does come in (non-
spray) cans) and I tell you; you don't want to use force to free a thing like that.
..yeah I know; the small 'puck' is still on the carb.

More on that later.
Now as I have dismantled so far as I have, I can clean every carb individually.
I tell you.... the exterior of those carbs just wouldn't clean up. I tried every cleaning agent
in the universe...everything! Then it occurred to me that this brownish layer looked a lot
like varnish, lacquer or shellac or something. So I gave them a go with paint-remover
(avoiding covering the plastic washers on the throttle axles) ...and presto! (Well not quite;
it was a long process of paint remover, detergent, paint remover etc.) They came out rather
nicely...don't you think:

...then cleaned the 'interior' like two dusin times
using a healthy variation of brake cleaner, carb cleaner,
contact cleaner, lime-remover, detergents and few other things
Big brushes, small brushes, tooth brushes, stiff brushes, soft brushes
and a LOOOOOOOOOOOOT of compressed air.
Brake cleaner is really good for just general cleaning up

Contact cleaner is good for removing oxidation..that's what it's made for
Carb cleaner is good for removing fuel residue / varnish-like gum etc
But brake cleaner...ooh...love the stuff

Allways have a battery of cans ready
The float bowls and plenum halves I simply 'showered' in my bead-blasting cabinet, using
the finest grade glass-media available. I tell you; it's like the finest flour. The surface comes
out smoooooothe and nice. (But you definitely don't need to do this, ordinary cleaning will
do nicely, thank you)
.and then I washed them and blasted them with a LOT of compressed air
and then I washed them and blasted them with a LOT of compressed air
and then I washed them and blasted them with a LOT of compressed air
etc etc
I want the vacuum chamber tops to be polished, so I removed the lacquer with paint
remover. ...avoiding the plastic tops!
you'll have to remove the 'pucks' (new ones are part of Randakks brilliant rebuild kit)
If you're lucky you can do it with your air-gun inserted in the pilot screwhole
if it's reeeealy stuck, and you have no luck with WD40/contact cleaner or similar ,(I didn't)
you may have to drill into it (careful you don't drill through it...and down into the bypass
ports)
..what a mess. Be anal about cleaning up.

So why do you wanna remove the puck? Because behind that thing you'll see this:
Blue arrow:
tree holes leading to the bypass ports and you want to get in there to clean those and the
fuel ways leading to and from there. You'll find two fuel-ways down there (besides the tree
bypass ports)
and while we're there:
Yellow upper circle: underside of the pilot outlet (witch should be cleaned. No reason to
remove it) Yellow lower circle: fuel line from pilot screw, feeding the pilot outlet
and last but not least:
Red circle: pick up of vacuum from

..the (red circle) hole you seen in the next pic here
(this ONLY goes for carb 1.)
(and you can see the bypass ports (blue arrow))

...the above vacuum runs through that hole through this hole
and through the upper lip of the float chamber and down through this tube
where it is picked up by the vacuum hose leading up to the air cut off valve......yep: that
tiny hole a few pics back is what governs the air cut off valve (more on that later)
...seen from the intake side:
Left: small hole...vacuum uptake for air cutoff valve (only on carb 1) Middle: tree small
holes...bypass ports Right (the 'periscope' thingie): pilot outlet
Use tons of cleaner and enormous quantities of highly compressed air to clean all of the
above OK enough carb theory.
...another view of holes and passages to clean:
..clean holes and fuel passages for primary and secondary air jets
..clean holes and passage for fuel inlet

..pilot screw hole
..slow air jet hole
..fuel inlet from plenum-body to carbs (lower hole)

..air passage from plenum witch is (upper oval hole)
a)feeding air to primary and secondary air jets
b)passage for air from plenum to float chamber

You get the picture:
a hole ? a passage ? ...clean it....blow lotsa air.
here's one set of tiny thingies you'll have removed from one carb
clean, clean, clean!

I soaked them in a sort of cleaner made to clean things before it's painted
and then some strong household cleaning agent

..then carb cleaner and lot and lots of compressed air.
Note: these things are tiny tiny, and putting them in front of a strong air gun makes them
excellent projectiles and you can easily spend a whole Saturday morning trying to figure
out where they landed.
Getting there:
still keeping the parts for each individual carb separated
Finally time to break out that brilliant set from Randakk: Here's some of the parts

(Yes I'm quite anal about keeping thing tidy and orderly; I had a...a...sob..sob...messy
childhood...my....childhood home was...so..so..messy.......ha ho ho ; not really .-)
Showing where which O-rings goes:
Third from right: primary main FUEL jet

Second from right: secondary main FUEL jet
for witch you will
NOTE:
the end with the conical hollow end is where the O-ring goes
Here's a close up

NOTE: for checking jet sizes etc.:
consult Randakks site fuel-bowl fuel inlet and filter/screen goes back in
I did have an...er...issue with that particular O-ring from the Keyster O-ring set provided. I
couldn't really persuade the inlet/o-ring assembly into place. Pushed really hard. So I
compared it with an OEM O-ring from a genuine Honda fuel-inlet/screen set:
...and yes; the Honda O-ring is a tiny bit thinner. So I used that. Perfect fit. Maybe I wasn't
trying hard enough....donno.
Replace retaining plate

Be careful. The carbs are made of quite soft material BUT be sure the retaining plate is fully
down in position. If not: it will influence the float height adjustment, or rather; you'll adjust
the floats/needle to a seat witch is not in the right position height-wise. (That's why I didn't
like that O-ring; if it didn't allow the fuel inlet to be pressed in fully)
..insert primary and secondary nozzle
on later models the secondary nozzle is a two-parts thing like this

in goes the slow jet
screw it down into position
and mount the new rubber cap supplied
main jets
and again: note how the hollow conical end (o-ring'ed end)goes in first

press into position
install the new puck provided

and new gasket provided
at this point I skipped the floats etc. and put on the float chamber and turned to the other
side of the carb as I did not want the float / needle etc. to flap about when I did the rest of
the carb. I'll return to that in due time
screw in primary and secondary air jets:

in this case 120 and 60 (check the chart for later model specs)
UPPER one in the pic is the Primary (120)

LOWER one in the pis is secondary (60)
NOTE:
some if not all Clymer Manuals have got this WRONG;
they have mixed up the respective data for primary and secondary air jets!
gasket

screw on retaining metal plate
air pilot screw and spring

slow air jet
clean vacuum chambers and pistons
don't forget to clean inside here

and the hole up here in the vacuum chamber cover
and lotsa and lotsa compressed air.
test that they move heavenly smooooth and nice. You may have to use the method
provided in the 'Fast Lazy Furious' thread and you may have to polish them to achieve that.
One word of warning though:

the task is not only to make them move heavenly but to make them move heavenly
without stripping chamber or piston of material, thereby creating a larger distance between
the two and lessen the units capability to hold a vacuum.
Any fool can just sand away material and in that way make them move without any friction.
Don't. You'll destroy the vacuum 'calibration'.
insert piston and the white plastic ring

now: the springs: I have no idea how to check them,
but do it anyway .-)
mount spring and vacuum chamber cover

now that looks pretty neat...right?
I choose to replace the screw with a set of SS hex. screws, that you can find on EBay
It's a matter of preferences. I prefer these
tree more to go

..I did come up with a rather nifty (if I may say so ) method to check the vacuum piston
springs:
..put vacuum tops on a level surface

..install springs
..install piston
Measure how much each piston depress the spring.
Sure this method doesn't show if they are within spec. as I have no idea about spec.
But it will reveal if one spring is completely off.
OK let's get these carbs together:

install guide pins / fuel gasket-rubber-thingy ('rounded' end towards plenum / large O-ring
IF you did split the carbs from the chrome-carb-protection thing and into individual carbs:
..then don't forget this link:
..and the small spring

..and note: there should be one washer on each side of the 'tang'-end of the throttle
connecting shaft
now we have something like this
..mount 'net' Four bolts

..to be absolutely sure the big O-ring is properly seated, I lifted the plenum a few mm. and
put a flashlight to it, before tightening the bolts
lock the bolts
.same for the two carbs / other plenum-half. Then mount the fine new plenum rubber and
the two 'guide' pins: lower left and upper right

..install throttle and choke mechanism.
Hopefully you haven't been as stupid as me and broken them down to individual parts...so
it should be easy
anyway: considering the state they were in, they cleaned up surprisingly nicely
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH
THAT looks nice:

OOOH yes!
mind you, a couple of pages back they looked like this

so now it's a small matter of
..installing floats, adjusting the height
..air cut off valve
..air supply hoses plenum to slow air jet
and a few other things
Not for resale or to be

published. To be passed
around your Wing
friends

Carburator Rebuild

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Carburator Rebuild

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CARBURATOR REBUILD

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 1

This rebuild is based on his

Here they are

'normal' amount of filth and dirt and what have you

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 2

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 3

witch is confirmed by the build up on the engine block

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 4

try keeping the parts in 'batches'.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 5

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 6

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 7

these (two for each carb) are loose. Remove.

(you'll not find those on the very earliest GL1000)

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 8

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 9

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 10

Remove needles from pistons.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 11

they most probably look something like this..eeek

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 12

Remove primary and secondary main jets

(forgot to take picture so this is an 'installation' pic.

Remove fuel inlet/filter screen holder

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 13

If the screen is broken; order a new one.

The inlet screen/seat/needle assembly is still available.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 14

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 15

at least I've found an excuse for this exercise .-)

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 16

and unscrew jet.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 17

don't forget: there's a spring down there:

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 18

..yeah I know; the small 'puck' is still on the carb.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 19

Brake cleaner is really good for just general cleaning up

But brake cleaner...ooh...love the stuff

..what a mess. Be anal about cleaning up.

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 21

Red circle: pick up of vacuum from

(and you can see the bypass ports (blue arrow))

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 22

..clean holes and passage for fuel inlet

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 24

..slow air jet hole

..fuel inlet from plenum-body to carbs (lower hole)

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 25

clean, clean, clean!

and then some strong household cleaning agent

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 26

still keeping the parts for each individual carb separated

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 27

Third from right: primary main FUEL jet

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 28

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 29

..insert primary and secondary nozzle

on later models the secondary nozzle is a two-parts thing like this

© copyright Lars Nielsen 2006. www.nakedgoldwings.com 30

screw it down into position