Wood assembly without nails or screws

In woodworking, wood assembly by traditional means without nails or screws yields a more natural, attractive and professional finish. The joining method is chosen according to available tools, knowledge, habits and project, although the same method may be used for various types of projects. Here are a few of the most popular joining methods. Tenon and mortise joint A mortise is a cut made to a stud (female part), whereas a tenon is a part that projects on the end of a rail (male part) and is inserted in the cut. It is possible to insert the rail directly in the mortise (i.e., without giving the rail any particular shape), but usually the rail is sculpted to give it shoulders. The latter are surfaces located on 1, 2, 3 or 4 sides of the tenon, to prevent the latter from pushing in beyond a certain depth, and to stabilize the joint while hiding the contours of the mortise. To provide maximum hold, the tenon may completely pass through the stud, but the end of the tenon will then be apparent, which may be unattractive for some furniture. For an invisible joint, the mortise will not be drilled completely through the stud, to hide the end of the tenon (blind tenon). Popular among cabinetmakers for joining parts of equal thickness when making furniture. Dowel joint This type of joint consists of drilling holes in each part to be joined, and then inserting dowels, which are thus the link between the two parts. Prefabricated dowels come in various sizes (e.g.: diameters of in., in.) and have grooves allowing excess glue to come out. The dowels can also be made by cutting pieces of twigs; their lengths and diameters are more varied than those of prefabricated dowels, and can thus meet specific needs. These dowels will not have grooves, but its easy to trace grooves oneself. By its simplicity and principle, this type of joint can apply to various jobs: assembling boxes, drawers, furniture, frames Dovetail joint

The dovetail joint is made by securing, on one part, trapezoid tenons to be inserted in grooves of the same shape on the other part, so that dove tail-shaped ends show on the latter hence the name. This type of joint provides great strength when the parts are submitted to tractions. Frequently used for joining large parts submitted to tractions; typical for making drawers and boxes.

Lap-joints The principle is very simple: it consists of joining two parts of equal thickness, which will cross each other in T, + or even X patterns, by removing from both parts half their thickness at the point where they will meet. To make a joint that will be more attractive and sturdy than simply superimposing and screwing the two parts. Since the parts surfaces are flush, it is also possible to cover them with panels. Biscuit joint Like the dowel or false tenon joint, this type of joint is based on the insertion of a piece of wood in the parts to be joined. In the present case, the piece consists of a compressed wooden strip (called a biscuit) that enlarges in the slit where it is inserted (thanks to the glues humidity), thus making a very sturdy joint. Very easy and quick to produce, thanks to the biscuit joiner (a specialized tool that is highly accurate), this type of joint is adopted by more and more do-it-yourselfers, from amateurs to professionals. Used for making various assemblies, such as furniture, drawers and cupboard doors, biscuits are particularly suited for joining parts connected by their slice, for example to laterally join several boards intended to form a tabletop. Tongue and groove joint

A groove is made on the entire length of a wooden part, in which is then inserted the tongue that will fit on the entire length of another part. To laterally join boards intended for making panels, tabletops, floors, etc., or to install shelves in furniture and make cupboard doors (see the rail and stile joint).

Rail and stile joint Widely used by makers of kitchen cupboards, this type of joint is directly based on the tongue and groove joint; the two parts to be joined are machined according to complementary forms (or profiles). This variation of the tongue and groove joint has been developed sufficiently to justify its own description. This type of joint, quick and easy to make with adequate equipment (router), provides sturdiness and a large contact surface on which to apply glue. Moreover, not only do you make both the profile for joining parts and the groove for inserting the central panel (following the example of the tongue and groove joint), but you also make the interior finish moulding! Used for making central panel doors (for a variety of cabinets and furniture). To strengthen joints You can, of course, screw or nail the joined parts together to strengthen the joint, but since were interested here in joints without screws or nails, lets see how we do without them Glue Wood or construction glue will strengthen any type of joint. In the case of biscuits, however, glue not only establishes a link based on adherence, but also humidifies the biscuits, which then expand in the slit, thus producing a physical link between the two parts to be joined. Keys This technique, which is similar to that of biscuits, applies to mitre cut joints (e.g.: frames). Kerfs are cut in the joints outer corner and wood tabs are inserted in them. Allow the glue to dry, and then use a back saw or a file to remove tab tips that protrude, while take care not to damage the surface.

Dowels Wood dowels can be used for literally locking a tenon and mortise joint; you have only to drill the joint through and through, and then insert a dowel in the hole. For even more effectiveness, you can make a pull lock: the tenons hole is slightly staggered (by approx. to 1 mm) in relation to the holes drilled in the mortise. During its insertion, the dowel pulls on the tenon, thus leading it toward the mortise. Wedged through joints Wedged through tenon and mortise joints can be strengthened by the insertion of wooden wedges (wood tongues of increasing thickness): slits are cut on the end of the tenon (which thus looks like a fork), the latter is slid in the mortise (which is dug through and through the part), then a wedge is inserted in each slit and tapped in lightly with a mallet. The result is to spread apart the parts of the tenon that form the fork. The mortise can be widened where the tenon exits, which allows the latter to spread apart further, for increased locking.