Vous êtes sur la page 1sur 2

Bamboo: About the Fiber Wet Processing Of Bamboo Fabrics

Generally a moderate wet processing treatment is enough for bamboo fibers. Light singeing, moderate desizing, scouring and bleaching at temperature not over 100C, with alkali concentration not above 10 gpl and dyeing with fiber reactive dyes that does not require more than 20 gpl soda concentration are most suitable for bamboo fibers. Singeing: Do moderately. Desizing: Do enzymatic desizing with mild desizing agents. The size should be removed before further processing to the level of more than90%. Scouring: Bamboo scouring and bleaching in fact bamboo fiber is the pure one and does not any scouring. However to mild scouring operation may be done using wither combined scouring and bleaching operation or separate processes as you wish. An alkali concentration more than 10 gpl (Caustic soda at higher temperatures 100C) is not suitable. Peroxide bleaching and scouring can be combined in to one process for better results. Mercerizing: This process is almost not necessary for this fiber. However, a mild causticization can be done with tension. Dyeing: Reactive dyestuffs are most suitable. Alkali concentration should not increased above 20 gpl of soda ash. Dye uptake of unmercerized bamboo fiber itself is about 20% more than cotton fiber. Fastness parameters of dyed bamboo is more than the required standards.

Chemically-manufactured bamboo rayon has some wonderful properties which are adored by conventional and eco-aware designers and consumers: 1. Bamboo fabric has a natural sheen and softness that feels and drapes like silk but is less expensive and more durable. 2. Bamboo clothing is easy to launder in a clothes washer and dryer. 3. Because of the smooth and round structure of its fibers, bamboo clothing is soft and non-irritating, even to sensitive skin. Some people with chemical sensitivities can not tolerate bamboo clothing. We are not sure if this intolerance is due to the intrinsic nature of bamboo but it more likely because of other chemicals added or used during the manufacturing and finishing processes of the clothing. 4. Bamboo is naturally anti-bacterial and anti-fungal supposedly because of a bacteriostatis agent unique to bamboo plants called bamboo kun which also helps bamboo resist harboring odors. Kun is also sometimes spelled kunh. The bamboo kun in bamboo fabric stops odor-producing bacteria from growing and spreading in the bamboo cloth allowing bamboo clothing to be more hygienic and to remain fresher smelling. 5. Bamboo clothing is hypoallergenic. 6. Bamboo is highly absorbent and wicks water away from the body 3 to 4 times faster than cotton. In warm, humid and sweaty weather, bamboo clothing helps keep the wearer drier, cooler and more comfortable and doesnt stick to the skin. 7. The structure of bamboo fibers make bamboo fabrics more breathable and thermal regulating than cotton, hemp, wool or synthetic fabrics. 8. Bamboo clothing is naturally more wrinkle-resistant than cotton, and while it might still require ironing after washing,

bamboo fabric can be ironed at a lower temperature than cotton. Shrinkage during washing and drying is minimal at warm temperatures. 9. Bamboo fibers and fabrics absorb dyes faster and more thoroughly than cotton, modal and viscose with better color clarity. Bamboo fabrics do not need to be mercerized to improve their luster and dye-ability like cotton requires. 10. Designers such as Kate OConnor use bamboo fabric as an eco-friendly replacement for silk. Speaking of bamboo eco-fashion, Kate OConnor calls bamboo fashion so much cheaper [than silk] and its really good for the environment. It is the perfect summer fabric according to Kate OConnor. Linda Loudermilk, another savvy eco-fashion designer, frequently incorporates bamboo into her eco-fashions. Amanda Shi of Avita has some of the most exciting and originally beautiful ecofashion in bamboo.

Bamboo the plant and also bamboo the fabric can rate high as an environmentally friendly and renewable resource: * Bamboo grows rapidly and naturally without any pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers. * Bamboo clothing (both mechanically and chemically manufactured) is 100% biodegradable and can be completely decomposed in the soil by micro-organisms and sunlight without decomposing into any pollutants such as methane gas which is commonly produced as a by-product of decomposition in landfills and dumps. Growing bamboo improves soil quality and helps rebuild eroded soil. The extensive root system of bamboo holds soil together, prevents soil erosion, and retains water in the watershed. * Bamboo grows naturally without the need for agricultural tending and large diesel exhaust-spewing tractors to plant seeds and cultivate the soil. * Bamboo plantations are large factories for photosynthesis which reduces greenhouse gases. Bamboo plants absorb about 5 times the amount of carbon dioxide (a primary greenhouse gas) and produces about 35% more oxygen than an equivalent stand of trees. * Bamboo fabrics and clothing can be manufactured and produced without any chemical additives although eco-certification such as Oeko-Tex is necessary to insure that the manufacturing and finishing processes are healthy. * Currently, there are no known genetically modified organisms (GMO) variants of bamboo. Lets hope it stays that way. * The bottom line on bamboo. The growing of bamboo is environmentally friendly but the manufacturing of bamboo into fabric raises environmental and health concerns because of the strong chemical solvents used to cook the bamboo plant into a viscose solution that is then reconstructed into cellulose fiber for weaving into yarn for fabric.

Bamboo clothing marketers have found a variety of ways to put the most eco-friendly and sustainable face on the manufacturing of bamboo fabric. The dominant manufacturing process of hydrolysis alkalization and multi-phase bleaching is generally referred to as a rather benign process utilizing caustic soda and bleach. The chemicals used are known to create a variety of health problems and neural disorders which can be hazardous to the health of fiber manufacturing workers. If the manufacturing facility lacks adequate pollution control systems all too common in developing countries where regulations and enforcement are nearly non-existent then these toxic chemicals can escape into the atmosphere through air vents and smokestacks and into waterways through inadequately treated waste water disposal systems.

Since there are bogus fibers being marketed as Bamboo fibers, there comes into operation a separate certification for Bamboos called Bamboo identification rules.