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Tera 22/11/2011 MaryRoss

VINHODOPORTO
SAVORINGATASTEOFHISTORYINTHIS
CENTURIESOLDPORT

DAILY HERALD (ONLINE)

WepurchasedourflagshipvineyardVargellasbeforephylloxera,saidRobertBowerofTaylorsPortata tasting of his 2009 vintage sponsored by Northbrooks Pantheon Wine Shoppe. My fellow guests and I exchanged glances, trying to reconcile Europes 19th century vineyard plague with this dapper 30something. Bowerlaughed,Bywe,ofcourse,Imeanourfamily. Wine has been a family affair at Taylors Port for threecenturiesandcounting. Taylor Fladgate & Yeatman was established in the Portuguese city of Oporto in 1692. Acquisitions of Fonseca Guimaraens (in 1948) and Croft (2001) expanded acreage and talent, but protected the familial legacy. To this day, descendants of the Yeatmans,GuimaraensandCroftclansmanageday today activities including international marketing, maintaining cellars of more than 500,00 casks, and foottreadingthegrapes. Itscrazynottoswitchtomachinepressing,laughs Bower. Foot treading is more costly, but it is gentler, thoroughly oxygenates the new wine and extracts maximum color. Tourists are discouraged, but Bower jumps in a lagar (the traditional openfermenting vat) each year for camaraderie. In 2009,myfeetwereblackforweeks! Thisinkycoloracallingcardofmusculartannin along with fine acidity and complex fruit, are the reasons Taylors declared its 2009 vintage. (Had it not been declared, a process that needs approval from the Port Wine Institute, the wine could have beenblendedtomakeotherstylesofport.) Ourancestorscreatedwineforourreputationand we do the same. By agreement, we only declare a vintage that will fortify the reputation of our childrenandgrandchildren. The 2009 Croft ($79.97 per bottle) is a succulent charmer, as described by Johnson Ho, Pantheon proprietor.Fonsecas 2009 ($99.97) is a sumptuous stud muffin. These and the accompanying Ross Choice make valuable additions to any cellar, for a remarkable drinking experience or a gift to commemorate celebrations. One family outing was not met with general agreement,butitsresultmadehistory. In 2009, winemaker David Guimaraens learned of two casks of Taylors Port, aging in a Portuguese family cellar since 1874, now for sale; he gathered hisfamilytoinvestigate. Wewerequiteunhappymakingthistrip,recounts Bower. We were certain the wine would be undrinkable. To the wonderment of all, after 15 decades of undisturbed cask aging in perfect conditions, not only did the wine drink perfectly; it was sublime. Taylors purchased the casks and named the wine Scion. At our dinner, anticipation quieted the most garrulousguestsasBowerdistributedourowntaste.
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Tera 22/11/2011 MaryRoss

VINHODOPORTO

DAILY HERALD (ONLINE)

Indeed, this palate found Scion to be revivifying, with bold acid and complexity of dried fruits and exoticspicethatswelledintoanendlessfinish. Scion may be the last surviving Port of pre phylloxera era. With only 90 bottles released, PantheonisoneofafewretailersabletoofferScion, at$3,420perbottle. But Scion is one Port you dont save for your descendants.Thistasteofhistoryisforyou

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