Asian Forest Scorpion Standard Operating Procedure

0.0.1 Heterometrus spinifer Individual animal profile: Hetrometrus species are very similar to emperor scorpions (Pandinus sp.) in both care and temperament. They are assumed to be a bit more aggressive, taking into consideration the emperors and heterometrus species are still very docile. This scorpion has never stung anyone but should not be handled at any time unless the heads of animal committee AND Dr. Leff have been consulted. This species is often referred to as a pet hole because it is most happy when it has made a large network of burrows. Therefore, to never see the scorpion is to know it is happy. If the scorpion is always walking around and trying to climb the glass, it is not a happy camper. The venom of this scorpion is considered not of medical importance, meaning that it is not strong enough to cause bodily harm. However, all venomous animals come with a small chance to elicit possibly strong allergic effects on an envenomated person. These allergic effects have nothing to do with the strength of the venom and will vary by person.

General Scorpion Guidelines:

If the scorpion has to be moved, use a pen or other long object to gently prod the animal. It will always move. Do not do this quickly or near the animals headyou dont like being poked in the face either. Scorpions often go months without eating anything for no real reason at all. This is not a problem. If the scorpion does not eat after two weeks, withhold food for just under 3 weeks and try again. Around molting time the scorpion with appear very large and fat. If a molt is found do not try to feed scorpion for at least a week after the molt was found as the scorpions exoskeleton has not hardened, making it very defensive and vulnerable. Scorpions are subject to a few ailments in particular. The most common is mites. If the enclosure is too wet (there is a difference between wet and humid) mites may become a problem. They will be seen as specks moving across the scorpion with concentrations at the joints. Mites may not be parasitic however. A few mites on the scorpion is not a problem, however, if the scorpion is stressed and the conditions are right (i.e. too wet/dirty) mites can multiple very quickly. A problem arises if you notice that the scorpion has more than a few mites congregating at the joints. This will further aggravate the scorpion and can lead to its death. It should be noted that aggregation on the joints is a very late stage infection event and is a big problem. If this occurs the scorpion must be washed with water and the enclosure stripped and bleached. Buying predatory mites such as H. miles is an option, but an expensive one.

Grain mites and other mite species can also be found in scorpion enclosures. These may congregate on the scorpion but will not aggregate at the joints. They are only a problem if they occur in high numbers. These mites are usually noticed crawling across the scorpion or enclosure (also congregating on the food of the scorpion if grain mites) but not specifically at the joints. It is best to treat this event as if they are a parasitic species and follow the procedure above, lest we find out later they are parasitic A common mistake is to identify springtails (Collembola) as mites. They are both very tiny and can really only be distinguished definitively under a microscope. Collembola are insects while mites are arachnids. Thus, to know how many legs the tiny white thing in question has, is to know if it is collembolan or a mite. Collembola eat detritus and are therefore not a problem for the scorpion. Collembola also can only thrive in very moist conditions. This can be considered when deciding if the scorpion has mites or collembola. Collembola are not generally found on the scorpion itself, just roaming the substrate. At present we do have collembolan in the heterometrus tank.

o Nematodes can be a problem. Tiny worms of any kind in the enclosure should be regarded as a problem. If they are soil nematodes, the substrate should be changed. If they are internal parasites of the scorpion, not much can be done.

Cleaning

Regular cleaning is not necessary unless parasites or mold are found.

Feeding

2-3 crickets should be fed once a week. If not crickets, then one Blaptica dubia or 2 full size Blatta lateralis.

Care

Substrate: We use a 1:1 mix of ecobark and sphagnum moss. This should be saturated with water (not soaked) and packed down as hard as possible. The sphagnum is great for retaining moisture and for the structural integrity of the burrows the scorpion will make. Temperature: The scorpion should be kept in a range from 80-90 degrees Fahrenheit. Heterometrus are temperate scorpions so turning heat lamps off at night is not necessary. It is difficult maintaining a balance between heat and humidity. Keep this in mind as you mist. Light: Lighting is not a big concern, but a 12 hour photoperiod is suggested. We use an infra-red bulb to achieve required heat.

Water: A shallow water bowl as big as the scorpions body should be present for this scorpion as the scorpion will bath and drink out of the bowl occasionallythough it will gain most of its moisture from its food. They are VERY efficient at retaining water. Note: Unlike a good deal of terrestrial arthropods, they do not take up water into their book lungs from humidity. Hides: Though the scorpion will burrow it should be provided with flat rocks and large bark chips pressed slightly down into the substrate. The scorpion will carve out scrapes under these hides.