folkSTYLE

Innovative designs to knit

including sweaters, hats,
scarves, gloves, and more

M A G S K A N D IS
 S h a n g h A i S u r p li c e
A n n ie M o d esitt

Annie Modesitt was inspired by the shape of a fifteenth-century quilted vest from China. Finished Size
30.5 (35, 39, 44, 48, 52.5)" (77.5 [89,
True to Folk Style form, this knitted vest marries duplicate stitch and European French knot 99, 112, 122, 133.5] cm) bust circumfer-
embroidery techniques with Asian shaping. The faux surplice silhouette is created with ence. Vest shown measures 35" (89 cm).

short-row shaping; a crocheted button creates more illusion at the base of the Mandarin Ya r n
Sportweight (#2 Fine).
collar. An unusual I-cord technique creates the strong diagonal and horizontal lines of
Shown here: Brown Sheep Cotton Fine
this detailed garment. (80% cotton, 20% wool; 222 yd [203
m]/50 g): #CW820 teddy bear (light
S tit c h G u i d e brown, A), 6 (6, 8, 9, 10, 10) balls; #CW
Horizontal I-Cord: *Using the cable method (see Glossary), CO 1 st but do not transfer the 475 olivette (olive, B), 4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5)
balls; #CW832 silver plum, 3 (3, 4, 4,
new st to the left needle, knit the next 2 sts on left needle, ssk, return the last 3 sts worked to
4, 4) balls; #CW455 willow leaf (yellow-
left needle, leaving the new CO st on right needle, bring yarn around the back of the I-cord in
green, D), 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3) balls.
position to work a RS row again; rep from * until all sts have been worked—stitch count should
be the same as when you started; the CO st at beg of each rep replaces the Needles
Size 7 (4.5 mm): 16" and 24" (40 and
st dec'd by the ssk join. Note: Depending on how loosely you work the CO, the new sts may
60 cm) circular (cir). Adjust needle size if
appear slightly more elongated than regular St sts, producing a deliberate decorative effect.
necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

I-Cord Bind-Off: With RS facing and using the cable method, CO 2 sts at beg of row. *K2, Notions
Marker (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle;
ssk; return 3 sts just worked to left needle, bring yarn around the back of the I-cord in position
size F/5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook; one 5/8"
to work a RS row again; rep from * until 3 sts rem, sssk (see Glossary)—1 st rem. Fasten off
(1.5 cm) button.
last st.
Gauge

Note: The lower body is worked back and forth in rows in one piece to the waist, then stitches 21 sts and 30 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stocki-
nette stitch intarsia patterns from charts.
are put on hold for the left front, and the right front and back are worked in one piece to the

2
right armhole. After dividing for the armhole, the right front and back are worked separately to

Sh ang h A i S ur pl ice
the shoulders. The roughly C-shaped left front insert is worked by picking up stitches along the
curved edge of the right front and working out toward the left side, armhole, and shoulder.

The purl stitches of the Scrollwork chart provide a guide for working the chain stitch and French
knot embroidery on the lower band and left front. The embroidery is shown in the diagram AT
DIRECTION.

annie modesitt
 The olive and yellow-green stems of the
Flower chart may be worked in stockinette
stitch intarsia, using a separate length of
yarn for each color section and cross-
ing yarns at each color change to avoid
leaving holes. As an alternative, you can
work the chart entirely in stockinette using
the background color, and embroider
the stems later in duplicate stitch, using
the chart as a guide. The positions of the
French knot flower buds are shown on the
chart for reference; work these stitches in
stockinette using the background color
and embroider the French knots where
indicated after the knitting is finished.

B ODY
With light brown and longer needle, use
the provisional method (see Glossary) to
CO 175 (200, 225, 250, 275, 300) sts.
Do not join. Working back and forth in
rows, knit 2 rows with light brown.
Next row: (RS) Set up patt from Row 1 of
Scrollwork chart (see Notes) as foll: Beg
where indicated for your size, work last
13 (0, 13, 0, 13, 0) sts of chart once,
rep entire 50-st patt 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6)
times, then work first 12 (0, 12, 0, 12, 0)
sts of chart once. Work Rows 2–16 of
3

Scrollwork chart. With light brown, knit

Sh ang h A i S ur pl ice

4 rows.
Next row: (RS) With olive, work horizontal
I-cord (see Stitch Guide). Knit 1 WS row
with olive, knit 2 rows with light brown,
then knit 2 rows with plum, ending with
a WS row—piece measures about
41/4" (11 cm) from CO.
annie modesitt
 Chinese Vest, Annie Modesitt

33/4 (43/4, 51/2, 61/4, 7, 73/4)" 6 (6, 61/2, 7, 71/2, 8)"

9.5 (12, 14, 16, 18, 19.5) cm 15 (15, 16.5, 18, 19, 20.5) cm

11/4"
3.2 cm 21/4 (21/2, 21/2, 23/4, 23/4, 31/4)"
8 (8 /2 , 9, 9 /4, 10, 10 /4)"
1 1 3 5.5 (6.5, 6.5, 7, 7, 8.5) cm
20.5 (21.5, 23, 23.5, 25.5, 27.5) cm
Front & Back

151/4 (171/2, 191/2, 223/4, 24, 261/4)"

83/4 (83/4, 91/4, 93/4, 101/4, 101/4)" 38.5 (44.5, 49.5, 56, 61, 66.5) cm
22 (22, 23.5, 25, 26, 26) cm

161/2 (19, 211/2, 233/4, 26, 281/2)"

42 (48.5, 54.5, 60.5, 66, 72) cm

Next row: (RS) Set up patt from Row 1 of Flower chart (see Notes): Place first 25 sts of row on
holder for all sizes, join light brown and other colors as needed, work 25-st rep of chart 6 (7,
8, 9, 10, 11) times, and at the same time place a marker (pm) when there are 62 (75, 88,
100, 113, 125) sts on right needle to indicate right side and beg of back—150 (175, 200,
225, 250, 275) sts rem; with RS facing, 62 (75, 87, 100, 112, 125) sts before m for right
front, and 88 (100, 113, 125, 138, 150) sts after m for back.
Next row: (WS) Work in established patt from Row 2 of chart to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1—1 st
dec'd at right front neck edge.
Next row: (RS) K1, k2tog, work in established patt from Row 3 of chart to end—1 st dec'd at
right front neck edge. Work Rows 4–18 of chart as established and at the same time dec 1
st at right front neck edge (end of WS rows and beg of RS rows) every row, working decs at
end of each rep on Rows 5 and 9 as shown on chart—121 (144, 167, 190, 213, 236) sts
rem when Row 18 has been completed; 17 sts total removed from neck edge; 25-st rep has

4
been decreased to 23-st rep; with RS facing, 41 (52, 64, 75, 87, 98) sts before m for right
front, and 80 (92, 103, 115, 126, 138) sts after m for back.

Shang h A i S ur p l ice
Note: From this point on, rep only Rows 19–62 of Flower chart for patt to end of back and
right front; do not work Rows 1–18 again. Cont in patt and at the same time dec 1 st at right
front neck edge every row 2 (7, 13, 17, 21, 21) more times—119 (137, 154, 173, 192, 215)
sts; 39 (45, 51, 58, 66, 77) front sts, still 80 (92, 103, 115, 126, 138) back sts. Cont even
in patt until piece measures 8 (8, 81/2, 9, 91/2, 91/2)" (20.5 [20.5, 21.5, 23, 24, 24] cm)
from CO, ending with a WS row. Note: Lower border will add an additional 3/4" (2 cm) in
length when it is applied during finishing. then BO 2 sts at beg of foll RS row, then BO 1 st annie modesitt
at beg of foll 1 (2, 3, 4, 5) RS row(s)—53 (59, 59, 65, 70) sts rem; armhole measures about
 A sele c ti o n o f p r o j e c ts

All Buttoned Up, Pam Allen

Appalachian Gathering Basket, Gina Wilde Patchwork Jacket, Gayle Bunn

Tribal Baby Carrier, Lisa B. Evans Urban Hand Warmers, Leigh Radford

Sunny Flower Cap, Kristin Nicholas Algonquin Socks, Gayle Bunn

C o n te n ts Celeb r ate t h e j oys o f k n itti n g a n d li v i n g
i n a g l o bal c o mm u n ity w it h F o l k S t yl e .
Introduction
The next book in the wildly popular Style se-
T he P r o jects ries—with more than 100,000 sold—Folk Style
All Buttoned Up | Pam Allen explores the theme of ethnic knitting traditions
Patchwork Jacket | Gayle Bunn
with a modern twist. Whether it’s a simple one-
Modern Quilt Wrap | Mags Kandis
colored, textured pair of mittens or a multicolored
Grand Tour Waistcoat | Di Gilpin
sweater, Folk Style is a collection steeped in
Shanghai Surplice | Annie Modesitt
fabulous ethnic influence.
Bunad Mukluks | Robin Melanson
Annie Oakley Jacket | Tara Jon Manning
Tibetan Jacket | Tara Jon Manning Inside Folk Style you'll find:
Bogolanfini Pullover | Fiona Ellis • Patterns for women, children, babies, and the
Nordic Star | Ann Budd home
Tribal Baby Carrier | Lisa B. Evans • Designs from names you know and love,
Sunny Flower Cap | Kristin Nicholas including Kristin Nicholas, Kate Gilbert, Annie
Felt Appliquéd Skirt | Gayle Bunn Modesitt, and Leigh Radford
Gansey Toque and Mitts | Véronik Avery • Inspirational projects involving color work, tex-
Algonquin Socks | Gayle Bunn ture work, and embroidery, from global sources
Burma Rings Scarf | Ann Budd
including Japanese shibori, North American
Urban Hand Warmers | Leigh Radford
patchwork, African baskets and cloth, Nordic
Shiboriesque Neckwrap | Mags Kandis
motifs, and Chinese shaping
Indian Silk Pillow | Marilyn Webster
Paisley Shawl | Kate Gilbert
The unique Design Notebook feature shares the
Appalachian Gathering Basket |
Gina Wilde author’s distinct take on color, motif, detail, and style, all drawing reference from the contrib-
uted designs. Filled with luscious photographs and easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions, Folk
Design Notebook Style has everything the knitter needs to create fresh styles with ethnic and global influence.
Abbreviations
Glossary of Techniques
Bibliography
Resources Mags Kandis is the head designer and consultant for Mission Falls Yarns and was
Index previously the creative director and co-owner of the company. She lives in Ontario,
Canada, with her partner and a tenacious terrier.
Paperbound, 8½ x 9, 160 pages
100 photographs, 30 illustrations, 30 charts
ISBN 978-1-59668-020-3
$24.95 US $31.95 Canada
October 2007
Interweave Press LLC is distributed to the book trade in the U.S. and Canada by Independent Publishers Group, in the United
Kingdom and Europe by Search Press, in New Zealand by David Bateman, Ltd., and in Australia by Keith Ainsworth Pty Ltd.

interweave.com Interweave Press LLC is also the publisher of 13 craft magazines, including Interweave Knits, Handwoven, Piecework, Spin-Off,
and Fiberarts.