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Incantadas:
Incantadas
The Enchanted
Galapagos Islands
P hot ography an d Text
© 2008 Mic hael L u stbader
The Galapagos Archipelago consists of a cluster of 17 Islands, located 600 miles due west of the
ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS
coast of Ecuador. Originally the tips of submerged volcanos, they rise as much as 10,000 feet from
the floor of the Pacific Ocean.
Although the Islands had been used as a stopping-off
place since the 1500s by sailors, whalers, and pirates, they
did not become “famous” until the 1800s. In September
of 1835, HMS Beagle visited the Galapagos on a fairly
typical (for that time) mission of exploration, carrying on
board a young naturalist named Charles Darwin.
Imagine yourself then, on the deck of the Beagle, approaching dry land for the first time in weeks.
One might think that after countless days on board, young Mr. Darwin would be thrilled to see
any land. Darwin’s reaction was somewhat different, however.
“Nothing could be less inviting than the first appearance. A broken field of black, basaltic lava,
thrown into the most rugged waves and crossed by great fissures, is everywhere covered by stunted,
sun-burnt brushwood, which shows little signs of life.”
Charles Darwin
He was greeted by the sight of cactus growing on bleak
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“I do not think there is a place where one might sow a bushel of corn, because most of it is full of very big stones.
so much so, that it seems as though some time God had showered stones...”
Fray Tomas Eps. Locastelli Auril 26 April 1535
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Below: Rocks and patterns in lava on some islands, as far as the eye could see.
Above: Lava Tube, formed by cooling of lava. As a lava flow cools, the outside
forms a hollow crust as the molten rock on the inside is still flowing.
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Galapagos Islands.
The most famous resident of the Islands--the Galapagos Tortoise. Total population about 15,000.
Almost wiped out by sailors (tortoises survive for months without food or water--an ideal
unspoiling source of protein for long sea voyages). Their current enemies include rats, feral cats
and pigs (egg-eaters). They survive 150 and 200 years if undisturbed.
Darwin was not alone in his fascination
with these unique animals.
Left: “The larger islands possess springs, situated in the central portions at a
considerable height. Tortoises frequent the lower parts and when thirsty are obliged to
travel from a long distance.”
Charles Darwin
“As I walked along I met two large tortoises, each of which must have weighed
two hundred pounds: one was eating a piece of cactus, and as I approached, it stared
at me and slowly stalked away; the other gave a deep hiss, and drew in its head.”
Charles Darwin
airborne life, to the Flightless Cormorant, which cannot fly and whose short stubby wings are
adapted only for swimming. It is shown here incubating its eggs. Most seabirds care for their eggs
as a pair, with both male and female taking
turns sitting on the nest and fishing.
Above, left: Greater Flamingo is attracted to saltwater lagoons. It stirs the water with its feet and
then uses its beak to filter out shrimp and small crustaceans. The color intensity of its pink feathers
is diet-related, specifically to small pink shrimp.
Among their enemies (herons, gulls, seals) they must number their own kind as well.
They are cannibalistic. The loser becomes lunch.
Below: The crabs remove excess salt from their systems by shooting it
out of glands on the underside of their carapace
Below: Sally on a volcanic beach. They certainly don’t believe in protective coloration.
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Unlike modern naturalists, who try to be objective in descriptions of their subjects, Darwin showed
no such concern.
“It is a hideous looking creature, of a dirty black color, stupid and sluggish in its movements.”
Charles Darwin
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“A group of six or seven of these hideous reptiles may oftentimes be seen on the black rocks,
a few feet above the surf, basking in the sun with outstretched legs.”
Charles Darwin
Left: Marine
iguana in nursery
burrow
We were here at sunrise, but still too late to glimpse the creator of these tracks...
A sea turtle
NEXT...
ISLAS INCANTADAS: THE ENCHANTED GALAPAGOS ISLANDS 20
There are mammals living on the islands, one of the most captivating being the Galapagos sea lion.
Quality time...
Thank you for accompanying me back to this magical and fascinating place.
The “Enchanted Islands”, indeed.
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On a technical note, 90% of the images shown here were taken with the Nikon 70-200mm F2.8 G IF-ED VR
AF-S lens on a tripod. I used the 1.4mm telextender sparingly, and the 300mm F4 even more sparingly.
There were times when I pined for a longer lens for smaller birds, but for the most part, I was satisfied with
my lens choice. My other workhorse lens was the AF-S DX VR Zoom-NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G IF-
ED. (You have to love a lens whose name is longer than the lens itself...). I was satisfied with the results as
long as I took care to stop down and watch which filters I used at which f-stop. I used the medium Really
Right Stuff ball head (BH40) with the lever release and found it excellent with the 70-200 and adequate with
the 300. I left my beloved 200mm MicroNikkor at home to save weight (I figured this wouldn’t be a macro
trip) and regretted it almost every day.
Other precautions:
After spending most of every day in a saltwater environment, I wiped down my tripod head and legs with
fresh water. Yes, I know--carbon fiber doesn’t corrode, but salt water makes everything sticky.
Another thing I learned the hard way was not to travel with long lenses attached to camera bodies. When my
pack strap broke in the Quito airport and the bag hit the concrete from about 4 feet up, the lens plate on one
camera was almost pulled off of the camera. I finished the trip without a back-up and considered myself very
fortunate to do so.
“‘Bye, ‘bye...”