FATHER & SON TIES

Featured: Silk ties by Terrence Dobbs

Make Dad your own specially-designed tie for Fathers Day. Fresh from the Hamptons, Terrence Dobbs will inspire you with his Father & Son ties. You will need:

1 square yard [meter] of fashion fabric (try something silky) coordinating thread kraft paper

THE NECKTIE PATTERN This tie is drafted by height. The four major parts of the necktie draft equation are the length of the tie from the big tip to the knot, the knot itself, the tie around the neck, and finally the tail end of the tie that is hidden behind the front of the tie. The length should be reasonable so that when one tip is touching the belt buckle, the other tip can be securely held in place in the carrier on the back side. Height = measure vertically from top of head to heels. Neck measurement = measure around base of neck. Tie Width = 3.5 4 inches [9-10 cm] (it can vary on current fashion) Tie Knot = 5 inch allowance [12.5 cm] (Half-Windsor type) Take a length of kraft paper and fold it lengthwise. (You may glue 2 pieces together if needed).

Along the fold, plot the following:

A-B = 0.30 of the height B-C = neck measurement + [12mm] C-D = knot allowance D-E = 0.30 of the height 3 [75mm] Square 90 across from foldline at all points. F-C = 0.75 of tie width G-C = C-F Join F and G with a straight line. H is mid-point of F-G. I-C = C-D J-I = C-F

K-A = tie width; square up. L-K = K-A M-L = K-A Join M to J with a straight line. Join L to H with a straight line. Using a set square placed on line L-H, square a line from A to locate N on line M-J. Join L-A and L-N with a straight line. O-E = 0.50 of the tie width O-P = E-O P-Q = E-O Join Q and F with a straight line. Join P and H with a straight line. Using a set square placed on line P-H, square a line from E to locate R on line Q-F. Join P-E and P-R with a straight line. Join F to J with a straight line. At B and D, draw a 1 x 1 square [25mm X 25mm] with one of its sides positioned on the foldline. Add 3/8 [1cm] seam allowance around the perimeter of the tie pattern. Cut out the tie pattern and open the folded paper. Extend line F-G across the pattern piece. Cut through line F-G. Draw a grainline through opposite corners of the square box at B and D.

CUTTING
Cut 1X self for upper portion of tie. Cut 1X self for under portion of tie. Cut 1X self for carrier 6 X 2 [150 mm X 65mm] Tip: A rotary cutter is ideal for cutting fabric on bias grain. ASSEMBLY 1. Make a carrier loop 6 inches by 1 inches [150mm X 40mm]. 2. With right sides facing, align and match upper and under portions of tie together at center seam. Pin/baste and stitch seam using a [5mm] seam allowance. Press seam open. 3. With right sides facing, align and match each tie end along raw edges. Pin/baste and sew each tie point using a 3/8 [1cm] seam allowance. Press seam open. Grade and trim points. Turn tie right side out. Tip: A wooden chopstick lets you get into tight corners when pressing a seam open. 4. Fold the tie fabric with wrong sides together; align and match raw edges along length of tie. Baste both layers together. This tie is self-lined. Select which side of the tie will be the face side. 5. Fold the tie carrier in half to form a loop and secure it 10 [25.5cm] from the front tip on the face side of the tie. Sew it to the seam allowance. 6. With the tie face down, fold the basted raw edge 3/8 [1cm] over the center of the tie along its length. Herringbone stitch along the raw edge catching only the top layers of fabric. Tip: Use waxed thread and a new needle whenever doing hand-stitching. 7. Place the folded edge over the basted raw edges and align to center (careful not to stretch fabric). Slipstitch along folded edge, catching only the top layer of fabric to complete the tie.

8. Without touching the fabric, gently steam the tie shape. Let fabric cool before handling. (Do not press the tie.)

TIE ONE ON (CORBATA)

The Shape The shape of the necktie is an interesting item as it tends to fade in and out with current styles. Designers prefer a shape known as the half bottle. This shape enables a much more becoming knot with a small touch of refinement. However the true half bottle shape which looks like the neck and shoulder of a bottle

typically doesnt lend itself to some of the more narrower styles. By narrow, I mean anything under 3.5 inches. The four major parts of the necktie draft equation are the length of the tie from the big tip to the knot, the knot itself, the tie around the neck, and finally the tail end of the tie that is hidden behind the front of the tie. The length should be reasonable so that when one tip is touching the belt buckle, the other tip can be securely held in place in the carrier on the back side. You will need:

sharp pair of scissors or rotary cutter silk pins ruler tailors chalk thread a new needle 1 square yard of silk fabric approximately 1 yard of wool tie fuse for your interlining. THE NECKTIE DRAFT A necktie is a symmetrical shape cut on the true bias grain (45 degrees). You will need your height measurement and your neck measurement. Tie Width = 3.5 3.75 inches (it can vary on current fashion) Four in Hand Knot = 2 inch allowance Pratt Knot = 4 inch allowance Half Windsor Knot = 5 inch allowance Full Windsor Knot = 6 inch allowance Take a yard-length of kraft paper (36) and fold it lengthwise. Open the paper and draw a straight line on the creased fold. Refold the paper.

FACE SECTION

On the fold, mark a point, 1. 2 from 1 = (.30 x height) + neck measurement Square across from 1 and 2. 3 from 2 = 3 x half the width measurement 4 from 1 = distance of line 2-3 Join 3 to 4 with a straight line. Divide line 2-3 and line 1-4 into thirds. Label points 5, 6 and 7, 8. Connect 5 and 7 with a dotted line; connect 6 and 8 with a dotted line. 9 from 2 = line 2-3 Square across from 9. Label the intersection, point 10 Join point 9 to point 2. 11 from 1 = line 1-4 Square across from 11. Label the intersection, point 12. Join point 1 to point 12.

13 from 2 = 7 inches Square across from 13. Label the intersection, point 14. Along the edge 14-10-2, make a parallel line and add a seam allowance. Trace all lines with a tracing wheel, then open paper and draw in lines using a ruler to retrace the lines. To complete top portion, extend the line 1-12 with a tangent line across all lines. Add seam allowance parallel to tangent line. Trace out the interface pattern and tip end as shown.

TAIL SECTION

On the fold, mark a point, 1A. 2A from 1A = (.30 x height 3) + knot measurement Square across from 1A and 2A.

3A from 2A = 3 x quarter the width measurement 4A from 1A = distance of line 2-3 Join 3A to 4A with a straight line. Divide line 2A-3A and line 1A-4A into thirds. Label points 5A, 6A and 7A, 8A. Connect 5A and 7A with a dotted tangent line; connect 6A and 8A with a dotted tangent line. 9A from 2A = line 2A-3A Square across from 9A. Label the intersection of the tangent line, point 10A. Join point 9A to point 2A. 11A from 1A = line 1A-4A Square across from 11A. Label the intersection, point 12A. Join point 1A to point 12A. 13A from 2A = 6 inches Square across from 13A. Label the intersection, point 14A. Along the edge 14A-10A-2A, make a parallel line and add a seam allowance. Trace all lines with a tracing wheel, then open paper and draw in lines using a ruler to retrace the lines. To complete top portion, extend the line 1A-12A with a tangent line across all lines. Add 1/2 seam allowance parallel to tangent line. Trace out the interface pattern and tip end as shown. Make a carrier loop 6 inches by 1 inches. See this link to assemble and finish your necktie. Check out this site to learn how to tie your necktie

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 1First, decide on the style and size of the tie that you will make. In this example we will make a standard 57 inch long, 3 1/2 inch wide tie with a keeper sewn into the tie, using a 4 fold lined construction. The silk used is the Ask Andy internet forum club pattern #1, that we have woven in a plain weave Thai silk. After consulting with our bespoke clients Noina will pick the construction for our ties on a bolt by bolt basis depending on the texture and weight of the silk. Next, assemble your supplies. You will need a pattern, sharp pair of scissors or rotary cutter, silk pins, ruler, marking pencil, thread, a new needle, a label, 1 square yard of silk fabric and approximately 1 3/4 yards of wool for your interlining. You can make two ties with 1 yard of silk. The wool will make many interlinings. The number will depend on whether you make a one or two piece interlining.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober

Figura y texto 2Carefully unroll your silk and smooth it out with your hands. Place your pattern on top of the silk and draw a line around the edges of the fabric. For a 4-fold tie you will generally have a 3-piece pattern for the tie and a 1-piece pattern for your interlining. You will also have three smaller pieces for the keeper and tipping. You can use a wool that you purchase at your local fabric store; we use 100% combed wool from Italy that is very springy and has two layers.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober

Figura y texto 3Be careful to cut your pattern line on a 45-degree bias angle to the selvage for both your silk and your wool. Feel free to use a rotary cutter if you prefer. Be sure to use a new blade. After cutting press the silk using a regular iron set at the silk temperature setting. Do not iron the silk because you might leave a shiny mark.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 4Now draw the lines on the wrong side of the silk fabric where the tipping will be sewn to the main area of the tie.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 5Here we have drawn the lines on our pattern so that you can clearly see them. In real life you will draw these lines on the silk fabric.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 6Now the tricky part where you sew the bottom edge of the tie. The right side of the tipping faces the right side of the main part of the tie. Now make a couple of stitches to hold the two pieces together. Next open the fabric and make it flat. Sew the first line closest to the edge of the fabric on both sides of the triangle. Then sew across at a 45-degree angle to make the point of the triangle. After this you sew the inside corners. Hint: use a piece of poster board cut into a triangle shape as a form to help to form the bottom of the tie. Noina prefers to sew the ends of the tie by eye. Although harder to learn at first, this technique is great for forming a natural tip, and is part the Sam Hober construction style. Next sew the small end's tipping onto the tie. The technique is the same.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 7After finishing the previous step, you will turn the the top and bottom ends inside out. Now sew the 3 main pieces of silk together. Note only two pieces are visible in the photograph.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 8Place the wool interlining inside the tie. Be careful to place the interlining snugly against the top and bottom ends of the tie.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 9Fold the silk to the centerline, and then fold again to the centerline for a total of four folds. The second fold to the centerline will overlap slightly. Use silk pins to hold the folds in place.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 10Fold the keeper into a tube and sew it closed. Carefully place it inside the tie under the fold and then sew it into the tie. Then flatten the keeper and sew both sides onto the tie. By putting the keeper under the fold it will be stronger and last longer. Be careful not to sew through the tie.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 11To close the tie you can use a hidden stitch or a saddle stitch. Both are attractive ways to close a tie. In this example we are using a hidden stitch. Use a slip stitch loop at both the bottom and the top. The slip stitch gives the tie more flexibility

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 12Sew slowly and carefully from the bottom to the top, removing the silk pins as you go along.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 13Sew the label with small stitches on each of the two smaller sides. Do not simply tack the corners as the label may fall off easily. Again be careful not to go all the way through the tie.

How we make our custom made / bespoke ties

by David Hober Figura y texto 14Finally! A finished necktie. Immediately try it on with your favorite shirt and post a picture for your friends and family to see.