Freshwater Angelfish Care

Get the tips on freshwater angelfish care from this article. Read the content and get to know the optimum conditions required for rearing angelfish at home.

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Marine Fish Exporter Exporter from Indonesia Fishes, Corals, Rocks in Stock ! Marine-fish-exporter.com Freshwater angelfish comes from the Cichlidae family. They have their origins in Amazon, Essequibo and Orinoco river. The basins of South America are flooded with tropical and freshwater angelfish. Angelfish belongs to the genus Pterophyllum. Rearing freshwater angelfish is easy. The beautiful fish comes is different colors and patters. It's one of the most wonderful variety of aquarium fish. You have to keep certain things in mind before rearing an angelfish. Therefore, get the tips on freshwater angelfish care from the segment given below. How to Care for Angelfish The basic factors that should be taken into consideration are, the size of the aquarium, oxygen supply, temperature and of course the hygiene. One of the most important aspect for proper growth of the fish is supply of adequate and right variety of food. Understanding the basics of tropical freshwater angelfish care will help you in proper breeding of the fish. We shall elaborate on this in the following segment. The Size of the Aquarium The basic calculation for the volume of water is dependent on the size of the fish and the tank. For, example one nickel size fish will require 1 gallon of water. The minimum size of tank for breeding a pair of angelfish is 15 gallons of water. When the fry is brood along with parents, the tank size should be approximately 25 gallons of water. Click on the link to know more about angelfish habitat. Temperature of the Water You can measure the temperature of water by a thermometer. The optimal temperature required for the growth of Angelfish lies between 74-78 F. Pure tropical angelfish spawn well in a little higher temperature, extending to 80 F. This temperature also boosts their immune system. Thus, maintaining adequate temperature is vital for their survival. Temperature also has an effect on their behavioral pattern. Filtration System of the Tank A high flow filtration system is quite a lot stressful to them since they do not know how to swim efficiently. The best filtration system for survival for angelfish are under-gravel filter and sponge filter. A small power filter is ideal for large tanks. However, you have to regularly clean the tank and change the water. Freshwater angelfish care and behavior is further explained below. pH of the Water Maintaining the pH of water is vital for carrying out the biological processes of the fish. Domestic bred

angelfish is more adapted to neutral water while wild and tropical species prefer a slightly higher pH. The pH ranges between 6.5 to 6.9. You can purchase a cichlid buffer or a regulator for adjusting the pH levels. You can also monitor the fluctuations with the help of pH test kit. Browse through some angelfish facts. Oxygen of the Water Oxygen density of the water is increased by live plants. Apart from the decorations, you need to keep a lot of fresh live plants so that they are able to breathe properly. The survival capacity of the plants is also an indication of water quality. The best way to attain adequate circulation of oxygen is done by keeping algae inside the aquarium. Feeding the Fish Angelfish is a good eater. The staple food of angelfish is flakes of fish food. However, it's suggested to feed them varied types of foods. They include black worms, mosquito larvae, blood worms, chopped earthworms, brine shrimps, and guppy fries. They also love to eat small fish. Special forms of finely ground raw beef heart and unflavored gelatin are also good for their health. You can feed them once or twice a day. Hygiene of the Tank Cleaning the tank to maintain hygiene is essential for adequate breeding (in this context read on angelfish breeding), growth and survival of the fish. The debris should be removed by gravel vacuum or siphons. 50% of water should be changed everyday. Keeping the tank clean also prevents bacterial and fungal growth. This way you can maintain the health of the fish. I hope the tips on freshwater angelfish care, written in the aforementioned content are now clear to you. However, make a point to monitor their health and ensure that they are free from diseases. A diseased fish should be given proper treatment and must be kept in a separate aquarium.
By Saptakee Sengupta Published: 11/1/2010

Brief Description Apart from other information about freshwater Angel fish, The Angel Fish article also contains answers on the following questions; How long do angelfish live, How to mate angelfish, How long does it take for angelfish to grow, How big do angelfish grow, How many angelfish should I keep in my aquarium, How to sex angelfish, How fast do angelfish grow, How often do angelfish spawn, How big fish tank do angelfish need, How do you start an angelfish aquarium, How often do angelfish eat, How often do you clean an angelfishes tank, How to stop angelfish aggression, How to add an angelfish into a tank with already 1 in it, What is an angelfish. Some answers can be found directly in the article and some answers are located within the comments below the article. If you're an experienced fishkeeper, then consider sharing your own ideas, tips and experiences at the bottom of this article!
Angel Fish

(Pterophyllum scalare) is a popular tropical freshwater aquarium fish, and they are considered to be one of the most beautiful kind of tropical freshwater aquarium fishes. They also have a strong personality and it is a pleasure to care for them. They like to attract attention when somebody is nearby, or at feeding time. They are one of the first fish which were brought from America and they are very popular. They were brought to Europe around 1820 and in 1930 Angel Fish were bred in captivity in the United States for the first time. Because of the mentioned advantages and extraordinary look, Angelfish are highly demanded and are for sale in almost every pet shop. Picture

Recommended website if you want to purchase Angelfish Visit Angelfish information

USA!

They sell Angelfish, Discus, and also sell

Bristlenose

catfish,

suppies&fish

do offer food!

They have a quite round and flat body, but their dorsal and ventral fins are long, each is almost as long as the body is. They can grow up to 15 cm vertically. There are many freshwater variants such as: 1) Golden a light shade of yellow. 2) Silver - silver bodies and black vertical markings. They can be dark, light, solid, or broken. 3) Koi - red-white with patches of black or gold markings. Young fish can have red markings under the eye. 4) Smoky - a shade of silver on one half, and a dark grey or ebony on the other half. 5) Pearly Gold a dazzling shade of gold. 6) Black solid ebony. 7) Black Lace - black, but sporting wide light to dark stripes. 8) Zebra a black body with white stripes. 9) Marble - marble-like swirls of silver and black on their bodies, black markings on their fins and some have golden patterns on their heads. 10) Blushing - a shade of white, and golden markings on their heads. Young fish can have a red marking under the eye. 11) Blue Blushing - grey in colour, outlines in black. Young fish can have a red marking under the eye. Amazing on this variety is their ability to become darker or lighter according to how they feel. 12) Veiltail - very elongated fins and they can be in many colour variants.

Habitat In nature Angel Fish live in the Amazon River in South America. They can be found in bulrushes where they can find shelter. They grow and live in big crowds but this fact doesnt mean, that they cant swim free. Because of their flat body they have no problems if they are squeezed close to each other. They come out from the bulrushes when they want to play. But when there is any sign of an enemy, they swim back into the rushes. There they are well protected, because it is like they are behind a fence, so the enemy cant get through to them. Fish tank and care 4

Angel

need a large tank. This is because they are quite big fish. The aquarium should be high, because they like to swim up and down, and they are tall too, so they need space horizontally, not just vertically. I think that a height of 50 cm is quite good. If you want to breed Angel Fish, the minimum size of the tank for a breeding pair of Angelfish is 70 litres, but if you want to leave the fries in the tank with their parents, it should be 110 litres or larger. Just imagine: 2 fully grown Angel Fish and 200 or 300 newborns. Pretty big crowd isnt it. The larger the tank the more security for eggs and young and comfort there is.
Fish

Like all freshwater aquariums, an Angel Fish aquarium should have plants. They improve the water by keeping it clean, hinder algae growth, add oxygen into the water, and give shelter to the young fish. Angel Fish like broadleaf aquarium plants because they like to lay eggs on them. Amazon Sword Plants - Echinodorus are the perfect plants for an Angel Fish tank. The pH level should be between 6.0 and 9.0, and the temperature should be around 25C. High temperatures cause rapid growth and early death. Generally speaking you should keep more than just a few Angel Fish in an aquarium. If there are only a few fish, the strongest will make the others miserable and they will feel lonely. But in bigger groups they will behave better. However, as I have wrote already, they need a lot of space. Especially if you have more fish. Tankmates Very good tankmates for Angelfish are various Tetras (such as Black Skirt Tetra for instance) as Tetras don't fit the Angelfish' mouth. If possible, the tankmates should originally come from South America. Bristlenose Catfish and Cories are just a tip. In general, don't combine Guppies and Angelfish as Guppies would nip Angelfish' fins, and vice-versa Angelfish would eat Guppies. If they're kept together from juvenile age they may be peaceful. Fish of similar size from Asia may be considered too. Angelfish usually don't fight for territories with other species, but this rule doesn't apply to small aquariums. If you're adding new angelfish into an aquarium with at least 1 angelfish that's there already, introduce the new one after feeding time, preferably when lights are turned off. Food and feeding Flake food is enough for Angel Fish, but it is better for their health to give them a variety foods. This is especially important when they are breeding. 5

They like live food such as Adult Brine Shrimp, Black Worms, Mosquito larvae, finely chopped earthworms, and Guppy fry. But they can also eat frozen Blood Worms, Brine Shrimp and others. They can be also fed dried foods like dried crabs. Don't overfeed your fish, it's completely OK to feed your adult angelfish once a day the amount that's eaten in 4-5 minutes. Young angelfish should be fed twice a day and the fry should be fed even 5-6 times a day depending on how many newborns swim in your aquarium. Breeding When genital papillae appear, the Angel Fish is about to spawn. These little nipples are used for depositing eggs and fertilizing them. Then they choose a spawning plate and clean it two or three days before spawning. After a few days the female lays eggs and the male fertilizes them. After few hours unfertilized eggs turn white and the parents will remove them. After little Angel Fish hatch they should be fed with powdered flakes or dried blood worms for the first 4 weeks 4 times a day. After that time they can be fed with Guppy fry. It is a very nutritious food. But they grow

Thursday, March 16, 2006

Angel Fish

Data Sheet
Scientific Name: Other Names: Family: Origin: Adult Size: Social: Lifespan: Tank Level: Minimum Tank Size: Diet: Breeding: Care: Ideal pH: Temperature: Tank setup: Pterophyllum Scalare Angel Fish Cichlidae Central Amazon, Peru, Eastern Ecuador up to 12-15 inches (30-38 cm) long 18 inches (42 cm height) Peaceful, but will eat small fish 15+ years Mid dweller 20 gallon Omnivore, enjoys live foods Egg layer Easy-Medium 6.8-7.2 75-82 F (24-28 C) Planted tank with some board leave plants, and gentle circulation

Sexing: Breeding:

No external difference means that it is very difficult to tell the sex. See notes on breeding

See below on breeding

Description:
Angel fish basically have disk-shaped,rounded bodies. Angelfish also have elongated dorsal and Anal fins. The Pectoral fins are stretched into long filaments. The Caudal fin is fan shaped and broad. The outermost fin rays are elongated. In some older angelfish the forehead may form a slight hump.

Habitat/Care:
Live plants should be included in all freshwater tanks. Water quality is monitored by live plants as they will look sickly before the fish die, they aid in keeping water clear, hinder growth of algae and add Oxygen to the water. Broadleaf aquatic plants are favorites of Angelfish for laying their eggs on.

Mixing with other fishes:

Angelfish seems to have acquired a poor reputation for chasing and eating smaller fish. Until they are about 7cm (2.8in long) they are relatively harmless, and are quite peaceful. As they grow bigger, they tend to prey on smaller fish.

Diet:
Angelfish can survive on flake food alone, but they will thrive and be much more apt to breed on a greatly varied diet. Live foods such as Adult Brine Shrimp, Black Worms, Mosquito larvae, finely chopped earthworms and Guppy fry are accepted with enthusiasm and should be included regularly. If live food is not available, frozen packages of Blood Worms (Midge Fly larvae), Brine Shrimp and others are available from your favorite pet supply store and are acceptable substitutions for the live food. There are many dried foods available that will suffice too. Raw beef heart, finely ground, mixed with unflavored gelatin and frozen immediately in small one serving size pieces is a good and economical addition to your Angelfish diet. Be absolutely sure there is no fat in the meat.

rare pearly angelfish

Breeding:
Angels are not by any stretch of the imagination easy to sex. The best way to sex them is to let them pair off on their own.

Keep about six or eight in a large tank and they will do the rest. A 20 gallon high tank is perfect for breeding pairs of angels. They will spawn on the floor of a tank, in a large flowerpot or on the leaves of a broad leaf plant. However, the preferred method is to put a piece of slate about 3 inches wide and 8-10 inches long leaning at about a 45-50 degree angle in the tank. They will pick at the slate until it is clean and then lay their eggs. Angels will lay from 100 to 500 eggs at a time, maybe more. Angelfish will readily lay eggs, but hatching them to grow is a lot more difficult. Immature breeding pairs often eat their eggs within 24 hours; you need to to remove eggs to a separate breeding tank after spawning. Treat the eggs for fungus and supply plenty of aeration, and the eggs will hatch. If you are fortunate enough to get a pair of adults, you will find that once the eggs are laid, both parents take turns in fanning the eggs. This helps to prevent waste materials from settling on the eggs and fungus growth. Sometimes an adult will eat an infected egg, so that it does not affect the other egg. Both sexes will guard the eggs AND the fry.

Variants:
There are many variants of angelfish. Some of these variants include: Gold angelfish have bodies that are a lustrous, light shade of yellow. The head of this beautiful variety of angelfish develops a brilliant shade of gold as it matures. Silver angelfish have silver bodies, a tawny head, and black vertical markings. These markings can vary greatly. They can be dark, light, solid, or broken. Each Silver angelfish has its own unique pattern. Koie angelfish are a stunning variety. These angelfish are white with patches of black. Some Koie angelfish have gold markings on their head, and young fish can be identified by a red hue beneath the eyes. This red coloration fades with maturity. Smoky angelfish or Half-black are a unique variety. They are a beautiful shade of silver on their front half, and they are a dark gray or ebony on the back half. The distinct separation of color between the front and back looks almost as if it was painted on. The Pearly Gold variety is a dazzling shad of gold. This strikingly beautiful angelfish appears to be illuminated because of its shiny body. They are truly a stunning addition to any freshwater aquarium. Black angelfish are solid ebony, but very striking just the same. Their elegant beauty greatly enhances a freshwater aquarium. The Black Lace angelfish is a lovely variety. They are also black, but sport wide stripes. These stripes alternate from light to dark over the body. Zebra angelfish have a black body with narrow stripes like that of a zebra. These striking fish are sometimes adorned with gold sparkles across the top. The details of this beautiful angelfish are simply amazing. Marble angelfish boast marble-like swirls of silver and black on their bodies, and black markings on their fins. Some Marble angelfish have golden patterns on their heads. Each Marble angelfish is wonderfully unique.

Photo Galley
Got a photo? Contact me.

Gold Angelfish

Silver Angelfish

Marble Vetail Angelfish

Zebra Angelfish

Pair of Koie Angelfish

Zebra Angelfish

Unknown breed. Note the strips are very thick.

leopard spot angelfish

Links to other awesome Angelfish sites:

1. http://theangelfishsociety.org/winnersgallery.htm - some of the most beautiful angel fish can be found here. 2. http://www.heavenlyangelfish.com/gallery.html - a good contender for the most beautiful angelfish galley. 3. http://home.twcny.rr.com/angelfish/gallery.html - another awesome angelfish galley showcase. 4. http://www.atlasaqm.net/online/index.php?action=category&id=6&subid=2 - a place where you can buy angelfish cheaply.
diet.

best if they have a varied

Diseases Some diseases which attack Angel

Fish

are:

Exophthalmia or Pop-Eye. The symptoms are: bloody spots, tumors, body sores, black spots, loss of fins. Causes are: not enough cleaning fish wastes, infection by some parasites, bacterial infections. Another cause is worm cataracts, when the eye becomes cloudy. Ichthyophthirius or Ich - white spot disease. It is caused by parasites. Hunger Strike; lost of appetite.

Feel free to visit the

article

about the most common diseases in freshwater

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topical aquarium fish as it describes them very well and it wouldn't make any sense to repeat the already written content on this page: aquarium fish diseases. Selling Angelfish If you've succeeded breeding Angelfish, you'll find out that there are plenty of babies swimming in the tank. If fed properly (very good food is Artemia Salina), they will grow and at least 50% should survive. In some cases only 10%-20% survive, in some cases even 80% of newborns survive. Later you'll face the problem called "overpopulated aquarium" and you'll have to sell some specimens. The best time to make your Angelfish available for sale is when they're 3-4cm long. Always tell the buyer that Angelfish won't stay 4cm long! If you're going to earn more by selling adult specimens, you can earn even $20-$30 per one. Sometimes it can be more, however this depends on the variant and colouration. If you're selling Angelfish to a person who haven't seen the parents, make sure that you take and show some pictures to such a person when selling. It will help you to avoid unhappy and angry customers! Additional information about Angelfish At this stage we'll talk about usual questions asked by keepers. Many aquarists ask how long do angelfish live. The answer is simple; As long as possible depending on conditions in your aquarium. Usually at least 4 years. Angelfish that are 8 or 9 years old can be often seen in healthy aquariums. New angelfish keepers are also interest in speed of their growth and ask "how long does it take for angelfish to grow". It heavily depends on feeding, but generally between 12 and 18 months. People are also interested in knowing how many angelfish is optimal for their aquarium. I keep angelfish myself and they have 75 liters each. However, it's OK to offer them 45 liters per specimen. This question is closely related to another one, which is "How big fish tank do angelfish need?". Angelfish fish tank must be big enough not only in terms of capacity, but also in terms of dimensions. Height of 50 cm is perhaps the best starting point, however if you choose 70 cm, they won't mind! As adult specimens don't swim too much, it is not necessary to give them plenty of swimming space. Planted aquariums will be welcome by this species! Another question is how often do you clean an angelfishes tank, which has a simple answer; As often as required. For instance, I don't clean my angelfish aquarium since it's big enough, the filtration is superb and no dangerous substances are present there. However, if your aquarium is too small and 11

overcrowded, it's possible that you'll face ammonia problem (and related ones). In such a case it's necessary to test the water once a week and perform partial water changes every time when needed. Pictures of Angelfish Thanks to Lorna Marie Kemble for the picture (a link to website has been removed on 6 March because the domain changed owner and content).

Freshwater Angelfish
Facts: Freshwater angelfish are beautiful fish that are popular as pets in aquariums across the world. Here are some interesting freshwater angelfish facts. Freshwater angelfish is an exotic tropical fish which belongs to the Cichlid family and has a lifespan of about 10 to15 years. The freshwater angelfish is round and flat like a disc, and has triangular fins. Its original name is Pterphyllum scalare, which means winged leaf or a flight of stairs. It is so called because the fish is leaf-shaped and its dorsal fins are graduated like a flight of steps. There are almost 100 species of freshwater and sea-water angelfish, and they are usually found in the warm waters of the Amazon River in Brazil, Columbia and Peru. They prefer to inhabit flooded forests and swamps with dense vegetation, where there is plenty of food, as well cover for protection. These species have crossbred over the years and they are now found in colors as varied as black laced marble, gold or ghost and gold marble. The height of an average angelfish is about 6 inches. Both sexes of the angelfish look alike, and it is possible to make out the difference only at breeding time. Female angelfish lay around a thousand eggs on the surface of rocks and plants. The eggs are carefully guarded and hatch within 24 to 36 hours. The baby fish live on the plants and feed on them for 4 to 5 days. After that the mother moves them to shallow pits where they can be fed with small sea organisms, such as roftiers. Angelfish in aquariums: Freshwater angelfish can be kept in aquariums, but they need proper care. It is usually the smaller species of angelfish such as the Centropyge, which are preferred for aquariums. People love to keep angelfish, not only because they look attractive, but they are also said to recognize their owners. They are between 4 to 6 inches in height. Here are some tips on freshwater angelfish care so that your fish remains healthy and happy. Angelfish prefer warm water. Keep the temperature of the aquarium water between 74 degrees to 84 degrees Celsius. Since they originally lived in river water, they prefer soft water. Ensure that the pH level of the water is between 6 to 7.5. Freshwater angelfish are natural carnivores. You can feed them on small fish, insect larvae, brine shrimps, insects, black worms and bloodworm. They can also be fed on guppies, which can be kept in the aquarium. You can feed your angelfish fresh or frozen food or in the form of flakes which are available at pet stores.

12

Thanks to

Tamri Shavi

too!

Scientific Names
Pterophyllum eimekei and/or Pterophyllum scalare. There has been some controversy about the scientific name of Angel Fish. Some experts think that the common aquarium Angel Fish may be a hybrid of the two wild species, P. eimekei and P. scalare, listed above. There is at least one more species of wild Angel Fish named Pterophyllum altum, and there is at least one report of it hybridizing with the common aquarium Angelfish.

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Here is Tom's 55-gallon aquarium, which contains 55-gallons of water, several ceramic ornaments, and a dozen large Angelfish, that were obtained from AquariumFish.net and raised in this aquarium. You can see individual pictures of some of these Angels below on this web page.

Comments
There are veil tail and regular tail Angel Fish varieties and an assortment of different color varieties. All Angels are wonderful aquarium fish. Although they are a little delicate when small, they grow fast and get stronger. They are not difficult to breed and many aquarists enjoy raising the babies. Click here for more information about breeding fish. Click here to visit another web site with interesting pictures of Angels spawning and close up pictures of Angel Fish fry. Click here to listen to a discussion about Breeding Freshwater Angel Fish by on Pet Fish Talk, the internet talk show about keeping Pet Fish in aquariums, fish bowls, and ponds. Click here to visit another web site with lots of information about Angel Fish including details about breeding Angels and a picture of a pair of Angel Fish laying eggs.

The picture on the left was taken by Tony Terceira of a Marble Veil Tail Angel Fish that he got from us. The Angelfish

14

on the right is a nice Black Angel with long pointed fins in a large aquarium in our facility.

Appropriate

Home

A large tall aquarium with at least 29 gallons of water, an exterior power filter with a BIO-Wheel, a maximum of 1/4 inch of gravel, and an aquarium heater adjusted to so the water temperature is between 78 and 82 degrees F. Click here for more about warm water aquariums. Click here to see a picture of my new 30 gallon aquarium with an Eclipse Cover. The water in this aquarium is 24" deep and just about ideal for Angel Fish.

Recommended

Diet

Floating flake food and freeze dried blood worms, which are actually mosquito larvae. Both of these foods are available in most stores that sell pet fish. Feed Angel Fish an occasional treat of live Black Worms and live or frozen brine shrimp. Click here for more about feeding fish. You can feed your Angel Fish a few live Black Worms. The ideal amount seems to be three or four Black Worms every other day. Be sure the worms are very clean and in good condition. Never feed questionable worms to any fish. Click here for more about live Black Worms.

15

The fish, shown just above, is a Silver Veiltail Angel. It lives in Tom's 55-gallon Angelfish Aquarium and seems to be different from most Silver Angels, because it's body and fins are covered with small red markings. As you can see, it has very long branched pelvic fins. It's also very energetic and healthy and is almost certainly a male but has not spawned yet.

16

This Gold Veiltail Angel also lives in Tom's 55-gallon Angelfish Aquarium, which is shown above.

17

This Marble Veil Angel lives in the same aquarium. This fish has a beautiful golden glow.

18

Another beautiful Angel from the same aquarium. All these Angels were obtained from AquariumFish.net and raised in the same 55-gallon aquarium together.

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Compatibility
Either one Angel to an aquarium or more than 3. Angels are Cichlids and like most Cichlids, if you keep just 2 or 3 in the same aquarium, the strongest one will make the others miserable. Angels do very well in a group with 6 or more Angels in a large aquarium with at least 50 gallons of water that is at least 18" deep. Here is a list of tropical fish that are usually compatible with Angel Fish: Silver Dollars, Bigger Tetras such as Black Skirts, Serpaes, and Silver Tips, Corydoras Catfish, Livebearers such as Platies, Swordtails, and Mollies, but not Guppies which may be eaten by Angels, and one Plecostomus Catfish. Angel Fish are often seen in aquariums with Gouramis, Giant Danios, Rainbows, a group of Bala Sharks, and a group of Clown Loaches. As Angel Fish grow larger, they become very efficient at stalking and eating small fish like Guppies and Neon Tetras.

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So they are not compatible tank mates for these fish. Click here to read more about several other groups of compatible fish. Angels are susceptible to a disease called Hole in the Head. Click here for information about this disease.

Size

and

Life

Span

Angel Fish can grow to be 12" tall and probably taller. I have seen Angel Fish with bodies 6" in diameter, but it is unusual for them to grow this big. Angel Fish are known to have lived for at least 10 years, and with exceptionally good care they can probably live even longer. Click here to buy Angelfish. Click here now to go on to another page in this web site that contains Customer Comments and our Replies about Angel Fish

Pterophyllum
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Jump to: navigation, search Angelfish

Pterophyllum altum
Scientific classification

Kingdom: Phylum: Class: Order: Family: Subfamily: Tribe: Genus:

Animalia Chordata Actinopterygii Perciformes Cichlidae Cichlasomatinae Heroini

Pterophyllum
Heckel, 1840
Binomial name

Pterophyllum altum
(Pellegrin, 1903)

Pterophyllum leopoldi 21

(Gosse, 1963)

Pterophyllum scalare
(Schultze, 1823)

Pterophyllum is a small genus of freshwater fish from the family Cichlidae known to most aquarists as "Angelfish". All Pterophyllum species originate from the Amazon River, Orinoco River and Essequibo River basins in tropical South America. The three species of Pterophyllum are unusually shaped for cichlids being greatly laterally compressed, with round bodies and elongated triangular dorsal and anal fins. This body shape allows them to hide among roots and plants, often on a vertical surface. Naturally occurring angelfish are frequently striped longitudinally, colouration which provides additional camouflage. Angelfish are ambush predators and prey on small fish and macroinvertebrates. All Pterophyllum species form monogamous pairs. Eggs are generally laid on a submerged log or a flattened leaf. As is the case for other cichlids, brood care is highly developed.

Contents
[hide]

1 History 2 P. altum 3 P. leopoldi 4 P. scalare 5 Angelfish in the fishkeeping hobby

o o o

5.1 Species 5.2 Care 5.3 Breeding

6 Compatibility with other fish 7 Strains of Angelfish 8 References 9 Bibliography

[edit] History
The freshwater angelfish was first talked about by Lichtenstein in 1824. Being scientifically named Pterophyllum scalare (pronounced: Ter'-o-fill" lum ska-la're), the meaning of Pterophyllum is; "winged leaf". It was not until the late 1920s to early 1930s that the angelfish was bred in captivity in the United States. In 1963 another species of Pterophyllum were discovered, P. leopoldi, this species was described by Gosse. In the beginning they were first described under another name, with P. leopoldi becoming the valid scientific name. Prior to that a species by the name of Pterophyllum altum had been discovered in 1906 by Pellegrin. There may still be undiscovered species in the Amazon River. New species of fish are discovered with increasing frequency, and, like P. scalare and leopoldi, the differences may be subtle. Scientific notations describe the P. leopoldi as having 2935 scales in a lateral row and straight predorsal contour. Whereas, the P. scalare is described as having 3545 scales in a lateral row and a notched predorsal contour. The leopoldi show the same coloration as scalare. Leopoldi can show a faint stripe between the eye stripe and the first complete body stripe and a third incomplete body stripe between the two main (complete) body stripes that extends three-fourths the length of the body. Whereas, the scalare's body does not show the stripe between the eye stipe and first complete body stripe at all, and the third stripe between 22

the two main body stripes rarely extends downward more than a half inch, if even present. The leopoldi fry develop three to eight body stripes, with all but one to five fading away as they mature, whereas scalare only have two in true wild form throughout life. Angelfish were bred in captivity for some 30 years prior to leopoldi being described; possibly longer outside the United States.

[edit] P. altum

This Pterophyllum altum has adapted well to life in captivity Pterophyllum altum, also referred to as the Altum Angelfish, Deep Angelfish, or Orinoco Angelfish,[1] occurs strictly in the Orinoco River Basin and the Upper Rio Negro watershed in Southern Venezuela, Southeastern Colombia and extreme Northern Brazil.[2] The species is the largest of the genus and specimens exceeding 50 cm in height (from tip of dorsal to tip of anal fin) have been reported in the wild; in aquariums, specimens are known to have grown to over 40 cm. Its natural base color is silver but with three brownish/red vertical stripes and red striations into the fins. The species may show red spotting and a blueish green dorsal overcast when mature and when aroused exhibits a black operculum spot. Characteristic of this species is an acute incision or notch above the nares (supraorbital indention). All true Orinoco Altum specimens show this trait, whereas commercial hybrids product of crosses to Pterophyllum scalare, that are occasionally performed by breeders to sell them as "Orinoco Altum", may not exhibit the trait or it may appear in a lesser degree. The true wildcaught Orinoco Altum is among the most challenging among tropical fish to breed in captivity. Most Altum Angels are more frequently found in the well oxygenated, extremely soft waters of Upper and Middle Orinoco tributaries shed from the Guiana Shield Highlands, preferring a pH range between 4.5 to 5.8. These are very transparent blackwaters with almost nil conductivity. Temperature range in these waters is between 78 and 84 F (26 and 29 C). They are also found in the Atabapo River and Inirida River floodplain, down the Casiquiare and Guaina floodplain where the Rio Negro is born, before entering Brazilian territory. Unlike P. scalare (mentioned above) which prefer to spawn on the submerged leaves of plants and trees in the flooded rainforest, P. altum prefers to spawn on submerged roots and tree branches in a moderate water current. This species is recommended for intermediate to advanced aquarists due to the detailed maintenance it requires for proper health. Pterophyllum altum is the national fish of Venezuela and an image of the fish appears on some currency bills of that country.

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[edit] P. leopoldi

Pterophyllum leopoldi Pterophyllum leopoldi, also referred to as the teardrop angelfish, long-nosed angelfish,[3] dwarf angelfish, or Roman-nosed angelfish,[4] is a river dwelling angelfish species that originates from rivers in the Amazon River basin along the Solimes River, Amazon River, and Rupununi River.[5] It is distinguished from other members of the Pterophyllum genus by the absence of a pre-dorsal notch and by the presence of a black blotch at the dorsal insertion on the 4th vertical bar.[3] The species was originally described as Plataxoides leopoldi in 1963 by J.P. Gosse,[6] and is frequently misidentified as P. dumerilii when the species is imported in the aquarium trade.[7] P. leopoldi is the smallest of the angelfish species and the most aggressive.

[edit] P. scalare
Pterophyllum scalare, the species most commonly referred to as angelfish or freshwater angelfish,[8] is the most common species of Pterophyllum held in captivity. Its natural habitat Amazon River basin in Peru, Colombia, and Brazil, particularly the Ucayali, Solimes and Amazon rivers, as well as the rivers of Amap in Brazil, the Oyapock River in French Guiana and the Essequibo River in Guyana. It is found in swamps or flooded grounds where vegetation is dense and the water is either clear or silty.[9] Its native water conditions range from a pH of 6.0 to 8.0, a water hardness range of 5 - 13 dH, and water temperature ranging from 24 to 30 C (75 to 86 F).[9] It was originally described as Zeus scalaris in 1823, and has also been described be several different names, including Platax scalaris, Plataxoides dumerilii, Pterophillum eimekei, Pterophyllum dumerilii, and Pterophyllum eimekei.[10]

[edit] Angelfish in the fishkeeping hobby

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A group of Pterophyllum altum Angelfish are one of the most commonly kept freshwater aquarium fish, as well as the most commonly kept cichlid. They are prized for their unique shape, color and behavior. Many hobbyists consider angelfish to be a relatively intelligent fish, able to recognize their owners.

[edit] Species
The most commonly kept species in the aquarium is Pterophyllum scalare. Most of the individuals the aquarium trade are captive-bred. Sometimes, Pterophyllum altum is available. Captive bred P. altum is available but occasionaly. Pterophyllum leopoldi is the hardest to find in the trade.

[edit] Care
Angelfish are kept in a warm aquarium, ideally around 80 F (27 C). They will do best if fed a mixture of flake, frozen and live food. Care should be taken to not overfeed, they will continue to eat even what they do not need to. This will lead to a buildup of fats resulting in inactivity and early death. Angelfish will do best if kept in an acidic environment, pH should be below 7.5 (note: 7.5 is still slightly alkaline - acidic is defined as below 7.0). All angelfish will prefer water with a pH of at most 7.0. Though most Pterophyllum scalare will thrive in a wide range of pH values. Even though angelfish are a member of the Cichlid family they are generally peaceful, however; the general rule "big fish eat little fish" applies. Aggressive fish should not be kept with angelfish because their flowing fins are vulnerable to fin nipping. Some smaller more aggressive fish may even nip at the fins of these fish.

[edit] Breeding
P. scalare is relatively easy to breed in the aquarium, although one of the results of generations of inbreeding is that many breeds have almost completely lost their rearing instincts resulting in the tendency of the parents to eat their young. In addition, it is very difficult to accurately identify the gender of any individual until they are nearly ready to breed. Angelfish pairs form long-term relationships where each individual will protect the other from threats and potential suitors. Upon the death or removal of one of the mated pair, breeders have experienced both the total refusal of the remaining mate to pair up with any other angelfish and successful breeding with subsequent mates. Depending upon aquarium conditions, P. scalare reaches sexual maturity at the age of six to twelve months or more. In situations where the eggs are removed from the aquarium immediately after spawning, the pair is capable of spawning every seven to ten days. Around the age of approximately three years, spawning frequency will decrease and eventually cease. When the pair is ready to spawn, they will choose an appropriate medium upon which to lay the eggs and spend one to two days picking off detritus and algae from the surface. This medium may be a broad-leaf plant in the aquarium, a flat surface such as a piece of slate placed vertically in the aquarium, a length of pipe, or even the glass sides of the aquarium. The female will deposit a line of eggs on the spawning substrate, followed by the male who will fertilize the eggs. This process will repeat itself until there are a total of 100 to more than 1,200 eggs, depending on the size and health of the female fish. As both parents care for the offspring throughout development, the pair will take turns maintaining a high rate of water circulation around the eggs by swimming very close to the eggs and fanning the eggs with their pectoral fins. In a few days, the eggs hatch and the fry remain attached to the spawning substrate. During this period, the fry will not eat and will survive by consuming the remains of their yolk sacs. At one week, the fry will detach and become free-swimming. Successful parents will keep close watch on the eggs until they become free-swimming. At the free-

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swimming stage, the fry can be fed newly-hatched brine shrimp (Artemia spp.) or microworms. It is generally accepted that brine shrimp are the superior choice for fast growth rates of fry. P. altum is notably difficult to breed in an aquarium environment.

Angel Fish while depositing a line of eggs. Black is female.

Angel Fish eggs ready to open

[edit] Compatibility with other fish

In pet stores the freshwater angelfish is typically placed in the semi-aggressive category, but that might prove false with some fish. For example, platies, tetras and plecos all are compatible with angelfish, although some tetras and barbs will usually nip at their long fins.

[edit] Strains of Angelfish

Most strains of angelfish available in the fishkeeping hobby are the result of many decades of selective breeding. For the most part, the original crosses of wild angelfish were not recorded and confusion between the various species of Pterophyllum, especially P. scalare and P. leopoldi, is common. This makes the origins of "Domestic angelfish" unclear. Domestic strains are most likely a collection of genes resulting from more than one species of wild angelfish combined with the selection of mutations in domesticated lines over the last 60 or more years. The result of this is a domestic angelfish that is a true hybrid with little more than a superficial resemblance to wild Pterophyllum species. It would be inaccurate to say that they accurately represent any species of wild angelfish, although they most resemble P. scalare and are frequently referred to as such. Domestic angelfish have been bred and crossbred for several decades. There are hundreds of mutations of little importance by themselves. Much of the research into the known genetics of P. scalare is the result of the research of Dr. Joanne Norton, who published a series of 18 articles in Freshwater and Marine Aquarium (FAMA) Magazine. Those articles are reprinted at http://theangelfishsociety.org/genetics.htm . Silver (+/+) The silver angelfish most commonly resembles the wild form of angelfish, and is also referred to as "wild-type". It is not, however, caught in the wild and is considered domestic. The fish has a silver body with red eyes and three vertical black stripes that can fade or darken depending on the mood of the fish. Gold (g/g) The genetic trait for the gold angelfish is recessive, and causes a light golden body with a darker yellow or orange color on the crown of the fish. It does not have the vertical black stripes or the red eye seen in the wild angelfish. 26

Zebra (Z/+ or Z/Z) The zebra phenotype results in 4 to 6 vertical stripes on the fish that in other ways resembles a silver angelfish. It is a dominant mutation that exists at the same locus as the stripeless gene. Black Lace (D/+) / Zebra Lace (D/+ - Z/+) A Silver or Zebra with one copy of the Dark gene. This results in very attractive lacing in the fins. Considered by some to the most attractive of all angelfish varieties. Smokey (Sm/+) A variety with a dark brownish grey back half and dark dorsal and anal fins. Chocolate (Sm/Sm) Homozygous for Smokey with more of the dark pattern. Sometimes only the head is silver.

Halfblack Veil Angelfish - P. scalare Halfblack (h/h) Silver with a black rear portion. Halfblack can express along with some other color genes, but not all. The pattern may not develop or express if the fish are in stressful conditions.

Sunset Blushing Veil Angelfish - P. scalare Sunset Blushing (g/g S/S) The Sunset Blushing has two doses of gold and two doses of Stripeless. The upper half of the fish exhibits orange on the good ones. The body is mostly white in color, fins are clear. The amount of orange showing on the fish can vary. On some the body is a pinkish or tangerine color. The term blushing comes from the clear gill plates found on juveniles. You can see the pinkish gill underneath.

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Koi Angelfish - P. scalare Koi (Gm/Gm S/S) or (Gm/g S/S) The Koi has a double or single dose of Gold Marble with a double dose of Stripeless. They express a variable amount of orange that varies with stress levels. The black marbling varies from 5%-40% coverage. Leopard (Sm/Sm Z/Z) or (Sm/Sm Z/+) The leopard is a very popular fish when young, having spots over most of their body. Most of these spots grow closer together as an adult so it looks like a chocolate with dots on it. (Smokey x Zebra) Blue Blushing (S/S) This is a wild-type angelfish that has two Stripeless genes. The body is actually grey with a bluish tint under the right light spectrum. An iridescent pigment develops as they age. This iridescence usually appears blue under most lighting. Silver Gold Marble (Gm/+) A Silver angel with a single Gold Marble gene. This is a co-dominant expression of Silver and Gold Marble, so you see traits of both. Ghost (S/+) A fish that is heterozygous for Stripeless. This results in a mostly silver fish with just a stripe through the eye and tail. Sometimes portions of the body stripes will express. Gold Marble (Gm/g or Gm/Gm) A gold angel with black marbling. Depending on whether the Gold Marble is single or double dose, the marbling will range from 5% to 40% coverage.

Marble Angelfish - P. scalare Marble (M/+ or M/M or M/g or M/Gm) Marble expresses with much more black pattern than Gold Marble does. The marbling varies from 50% to 95%. Black Hybrid (D/g or D/Gm) Cross a black with a gold, and you get black hybrids. A very vigorous black, that may look brassy when young. Does not breed true.

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Gold Pearlscale Angelfish - P. scalare Pearlscale (p/p) Pearlscale is a scale mutation. The "pearlscale" angelfish is also called the "diamond" angelfish in some regions due to the gem-like iridiscence on its scales. The scale have a wrinkled, wavy look that reflect light to create a sparkling effect. Pearl develops slowly, starting at around 9 weeks of age. In can be inhibited by stressful conditions. It is recessive, requiring both parents to contain the allele. It looks best on light colored fish like Gold, Gold Marble, Albino, Silver and Zebra. It is difficult to see on dark fish and blushing angelfish. Black Ghost (D/+ - S/+) Same description as a Ghost, with a darker appearance due to the Dark gene. Very similar to a Black Lace without complete stripes. Ghosts generally have more iridescence than non-ghosts. Albino (a/a) Albino removes dark pigments in most varieties. Some, like Albino Marble will still have a little black remaining on a percentage of the fish. The eye pupils are pink as in all albino animals. The surrounding iris can be red or yellow depending on the variety of Albino

How To Breed Angel Fish

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How To Breed Angel Fish

Over the past 10 years, people have asked me many questions on how to breed angelfish. Anyway, I started to write down questions on how to breed angel fish for the past few years. And just recently, I decided to type them out and let everyone see them. Sometimes the answers may seem very common sense... but that's how to breed angel fish. You see, angelfish aren't complicated. In fact, the more simple you keep your set up, the water changes and feeding, the easier it is going to be for your angelfish. And you know what? Angelfish can breed on their own! You see, sometimes we think we have to do all the work for angelfish to breed. But angel fish still have their wild instinct. (And lucky for us, it hasn't been bred out of them!) So here they are... Questions that people have asked on How to breed angelfish. For you to enjoy. How to breed angel fish What are the growth stages of Angel Fish? • Egg 0 to 60 hours • Wigglers - From hatching to free Swimming - Depending on the temperature, this usually occurs on the 7th Day • Fry - From free swimming to taking the form of an Angelfish • Juveniles - When they take on the appearance of an angelfish • Adults - Usually around 9-12 months once they are at breeding stage How can I tell male angelfish from female angelfish? There are some subtle differences that an experienced angelfish breeder can use to help identify mature males and females. Some angelfish enthusiasts say that the angle of the anal fin in relation to the belly of the angelfish, will identify the sex. Others say that some male angels may have a hump on the crown and some may be larger than the females. There seems to be too many ways of telling them apart, but none seem to be 100% correct. These differences do not exist on immature angelfish, all of the time. Therefore, the only sure way to tell the difference between mature males from mature females is to examine the breeding tubes during spawning. The female's breeding tube is wider and more blunt than the male's. Does the pecking order change when a pair is formed? Normally the pecking order will stay as it is until a pair is formed. Once a male and female form a pair, then it does change everything in the tank. The pair will normally be aggressive in defending their territory. The pecking order will be no more. At this time, it would be good idea to either remove the pair from the tank, or the other fish from it. Can two different types of angelfish breed? Yes they can. Whether it is black, koi, golden, silver etc, they will spawn with any other type of angel. That is how new varieties are created. It will not matter if they have standard fins, veils or super veils, pearl scales, blushing or not. I have two angles now, so how do I tell if they are male or female? Depending on the size of the angelfish now, it may take some time before you can tell their sex. The only real way of telling whether you have a male or female is by waiting for them to

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spawn. At that time, you will be able to see their breeding tube. The female's tube is blunt and much larger than the male's. Their breeding tubes can be said to be like a pencil. The female has a blunt tube, while the male has something similar to the tip of the pencil, shorter and pointy. During spawning, the female's lower body will thicken as she starts to produce eggs. Can I get a pair of angels from keeping two angels? With only two angels it is hard to get a pair. It has been done, but getting five or six angels and growing them up gives you a better chance for a pair. The chances of getting at least one pair from six angelfish is 95%. I do not want to breed angelfish. What should I do? If you are keeping your angelfish in a community tank, then another fish will generally eat the eggs when the lights go out. Sometimes, the parents will eat them once it gets dark. If you get parents that are protective enough to hatch their eggs in a community environment, there is still a chance that they do not survive. Breeding angelfish is not rocket science, but it is not that simple either. What size do you sell baby angels at? The answer to this will depend on what size the fish store wants to purchase them at. Some places won't buy them unless they are quarter size in body. Some will buy them at dime to nickel size. Normally, fish stores will take them when they are nickel size. When they are small, their immune system is still growing. As there is more chance that they may not survive when they are smaller, the fish stores will only buy them when they are a reasonable size.What is reasonable will depend on your fish store. What can I do to make sure the youngsters grow quickly to their adult size? What food should I feed them and how often should they be fed? There are several choices of quality foods. A color and growth flake from Angels Plus is a good choice. Also frozen brine shrimp and bloodworms may help them grow quickly. Depending on the size they are now, you might have to feed them 3 to 4 times a day. The problem with this is that the more you feed them, the more strain you put on your tank when it comes to waste. You will need to make sure you constantly do water changes. When do angelfish reach adult size? They normally reach adult size at around 10 to 12 months. What's the correct size to breed angelfish in? Generally speaking, a 20 gallon tank is considered to be adequate to breed a pair of angelfish. What about a fry tank? What's a good size for them? Again, a 20 gallon tank may be sufficient for fry. In saying this, you need to make sure that you maintain high water quality. Once they get a little bigger, you will need to get yourself a grow out tank. What size and how old before angelfish start pairing up? Angelfish will begin breeding more by age than by size. Depending on the tank, a pair of angelfish may form around 8 to 12 months. You may find that you get a pair earlier than this, while other times, you may find that they pair up later than 12 months. How big are angelfish eggs? They are the size of a pinhead. What happens during the first week once they laid their eggs? If the female has deposited her eggs, and the male fertilizes them, the following should occur; Day 0: The eggs are spawned in lines. Day 1: Any infertile eggs will turn white. Day 2: More eggs may turn white and fall to the bottom of the tank.

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Some eggs may have fungus on them, which turns them fuzzy. Today, wiggling tails may emerge from clear eggs. Day 3: Tadpole shape forms with large yolk sack, fry remain stuck to the slate. Day 4: Small eyes begin to form. The fry will survive on their yoke sacs. There is no need to feed them yet. Day 5: Eyes grow larger, yolk sack shrinks. Today, you will need to start your baby brine shrimp hatchery. Day 6: Some fry are free swimming. Day 7: Most of the fry should be free swimming. This is the time to start feeding them baby brine shrimp. If the female angelfish has been stressed, is it likely it will lay more eggs? There may be a chance that it will still spawn, but the healthy and less stressed an angelfish is, the more chance that they have of spawning. For more Angelfish tips, visit Angelfish Revealed's
Freshwater Angelfish
Facts: Freshwater angelfish are beautiful fish that are popular as pets in aquariums across the world. Here are some interesting freshwater angelfish facts. Freshwater angelfish is an exotic tropical fish which belongs to the Cichlid family and has a lifespan of about 10 to15 years. The freshwater angelfish is round and flat like a disc, and has triangular fins. Its original name is Pterphyllum scalare, which means winged leaf or a flight of stairs. It is so called because the fish is leaf-shaped and its dorsal fins are graduated like a flight of steps. There are almost 100 species of freshwater and sea-water angelfish, and they are usually found in the warm waters of the Amazon River in Brazil, Columbia and Peru. They prefer to inhabit flooded forests and swamps with dense vegetation, where there is plenty of food, as well cover for protection. These species have crossbred over the years and they are now found in colors as varied as black laced marble, gold or ghost and gold marble. The height of an average angelfish is about 6 inches. Both sexes of the angelfish look alike, and it is possible to make out the difference only at breeding time. Female angelfish lay around a thousand eggs on the surface of rocks and plants. The eggs are carefully guarded and hatch within 24 to 36 hours. The baby fish live on the plants and feed on them for 4 to 5 days. After that the mother moves them to shallow pits where they can be fed with small sea organisms, such as roftiers. Angelfish in aquariums: Freshwater angelfish can be kept in aquariums, but they need proper care. It is usually the smaller species of angelfish such as the Centropyge, which are preferred for aquariums. People love to keep angelfish, not only because they look attractive, but they are also said to recognize their owners. They are between 4 to 6 inches in height. Here are some tips on freshwater angelfish care so that your fish remains healthy and happy. Angelfish prefer warm water. Keep the temperature of the aquarium water between 74 degrees to 84 degrees Celsius. Since they originally lived in river water, they prefer soft water. Ensure that the pH level of the water is between 6 to 7.5. Freshwater angelfish are natural carnivores. You can feed them on small fish, insect larvae, brine shrimps, insects, black worms and bloodworm. They can also be fed on guppies, which can be kept in the aquarium. You can feed your angelfish fresh or frozen food or in the form of flakes which are available at pet stores. Freshwater Angelfish - Care and Keeping Posted by admin | January 3, 2011 .

Freshwater angelfishes are a very popular tropical fish, being both attractive and graceful to observe, generally peaceful and non-destructive. Keeping a group of angelfishes in an aquarium just for them is highly recommended. This gives them the opportunity to exhibit their behavior without them either being hassled by tiger barbs nipping their fins, or adult angelfish bullying other species. A few points about keeping freshwater angelfishes:

Plants with long trailing leaves are eminently suitable for angelfish to rest in and weave gracefully through. Angelfish will actually eat food directly from human fingers; they can be fed commercial foods or small livefoods.

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Avoid bright light in the angelfish aquarium. Some types of angelfish can lose their color in prolonged light and they are at their best when the contrasting dark bands and lighter colorations can be seen clearly. Angelfish sometimes eat their eggs and the young fry. This often happens the first time around with young adult angelfish. They will usually spawn again quickly and more successfully, but you may choose to remove the fry or separate them as soon as they look strong enough. It is a natural behavior and will usually right itself as the new parents mature. Keep any surface that might be chosen as an egg-laying spot away from heat sources as angelfish eggs will not hatch if exposed directly to heat. Angelfish can be observed mouthfighting as part of their mating rituals. Partial water changes are best when cleaning the water for angelfish. The water should normally be slightly acidic and heated to around 80 degrees fahrenheit

Angelfish Care
Proper Freshwater Angelfish Care and Keeping
When taking proper care of freshwater Angelfish it is important that the aquarium owner understands the basic needs of these fish. The fish keeper should be familiar with aquariums, water quality, water oxygen levels, water temperature and water filtration. Understanding the basics of these topics will help an aquarium owner to maintain a healthy aquarium environment that will encourage breeding. It is important that the home aquarium is adequate size hold the Angelfish. Young Angelfish need plenty of space to grow into strong healthy adults. A grow out tank should be no smaller than 50 gal and larger if possible. No more than 8 or 9 breeding size angelfish should be kept in a 50 gal tank. Once a breeding pair has been established, they can be kept in a 20 gal tank of their own. One excellent option for a grow out tank is a complete aquarium system. Complete systems offer built-in filtration that is usually high quality and provides the best possible filtration for promoting the growth of healthy angelfish. Newly hatched angelfish fry should be kept in a smaller tank with either an undergravel filter or a canister filter but once they are free swimming and strong they should be moved to a larger tank with space for growing and the best filtration. The Solana XL 67 gallon aquarium system is one that I recommend for a grow out tank. It offers the space for the young angelfish to grow and it has a superior built-in sump filtration system. Take a few minutes to read this Solana aquarium review and visit MarineDepot.com for free freight shipping on the aquarium system. Temperature is another important part of proper angelfish care. Freshwater Angelfish can tolerate a wide range of temperatures but prefer to have the temperature between 72 and 80 degrees. While the exact temperature isn't that important, it is important to keep the temperature stable. Most aquarium heaters have a built-in thermostat that helps to maintain a stable water temperature in the aquarium. The use of good filtration is necessary to keep water optimal. The filter should provide mechanical, chemical and biological filtration. Box or sponge filters provide good mechanical filtration and are safe for angelfish of all sizes. Box or sponge filters will also provide some biological filtration. Airstones in combination with these filters will help maintain good oxygen levels in the aquarium.

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The best way to keep water conditions optimal is by doing regular partial water changes. Water changes will remove dirt, waste products and other contaminants from the water. Changing a small percent of the water regularly will help stimulate appetites and encourage breeding in mated pairs. The best way to monitor water quality is by using aquarium test kits. These kits are relatively inexpensive and can be used to measure many of the different water parameters. Testing the water on a regular basis will allow an aquarium owner to be aware of changes in water quality and make adjustments as needed. Better water quality will result in healthier Angelfish. Read more about proper Freshwater Angelfish care.

Care Of Freshwater Angelfish In Home Aquariums

by Lee Dobbins Send Feedback to Lee Dobbins Request Reprint | Print | About Author | Report Problem | Tweet This

freshwater angelfish
More Details about freshwater angelfish here. A person who wants to wants to fill their aquarium with fantastic fish will find that freshwater Angelfish is one of the best choices you can make. There are three distinct species of Angelfish with the Pterophyllum scalare being the most common found in home aquariums. When you are deciding on the Angelfish that will be best for your aquarium, finding the perfect colors and personality will be key. When they are well cared for, Angelfish will live up to ten years. The Marble Angelfish is a beautiful silver and black fish that grows to six inches in length and often lives longer than ten years. Some of the fish will change colors depending on their age or mood. Since your fish will live for several years, it will be a good idea to choose a color and personality that will fit your needs through a long-term relationship. Angels are very easy to care for, but most like attention and interaction, so picking this fish will give you many changes to interact with your fish regularly. If you have an existing tank, adding at least 3-4 Angels will give them a better chance for survival in your tank. Remember that Angels like lots of room to swim in as well as lots of live plant life. They are very social and like to swim with a group. If you are going to breed your Angels, planning on 20 gallons for every two fish will be a good way to gauge the size of tank that you need. While most pet shops carry Angelfish because of their popularity, it will be important to check the provider you are getting your fish from out very carefully. The fish you select should be between the size of a quarter and silver dollar. Watching how the fish interact with other fish in the tank where you are shopping will also be helpful. Angelfish have different personalities just like people and it will be important that the fish you select is not too aggressive or timid and has the personality that will fit your needs. It is less likely that your Angels will nip or eat the other fish in your tank if they are all raised together as juveniles. At a year old, your Angels will reach maturity and begin to

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breed. At this age they will pair off and become more aggressive. Angels are very protective parents and will protect a corner of the tank aggressively when they pair off. At this stage of development, it will be necessary to either move your slower swimmers to another tank or separate your breeding Angels from the rest of the group. When you are planning on adding freshwater Angelfish to your existing tank, or starting an aquarium with Angels, it will be very helpful to talk to an individual who is knowledgeable about these wonderful fish and can give you information and details about the fish. Having the right species of fish, plants, and aquarium set up will assure that your Angels have long and happy lives. Next, find out more about freshwater angelfish and how you can breed and care for them in your tank.

Freshwater Angelfish Breeding for Beginners

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Freshwater angelfish (Pterophyllum scarlare) are a popular aquarium fish species, and for good reason. They are attractive and easily make an eye catching addition to any community tank. They are also easy to breed. Whether you were planning to or not, you may one day discover that your angelfish are a breeding pair with the appearance of hundreds of eggs. Here are some tips on helping your angelfish care for those unexpected eggs. Basic Freshwater Angelfish Care First you need to understand the basic care needs of your freshwater angelfish. Having healthy parents will make it more likely that you have some eggs that hatch and survive. Angelfish are omnivores and eat most anything. Its best to feed them a variety of processed fish food, frozen fish food, and live foods such as brine shrimp reports author Joseph S. Levine in The Complete Fishkeeper. They will also eat fresh vegetables or your live aquarium plants. Water temperatures should be kept at about 75 to 85 degrees F and pH should 6.7 to 7.5. These are large fish as adults and do need a large tank, at least 30 gallons for two. For these tall fish, a tall tank rather than a long tank is better. Telling Male Angelfish from Female Angelfish Unfortunately, you may not truly know if you have a breeding male and female pair of angelfish until the fry hatch, as the males and females can be difficult to tell apart. Some things to look for are physical and behavior characteristics, but keep in mind that these are not foolproof. Sometimes females take on male behaviors and characteristics. Males have a small bump on the nose and develop a more pointed papilla near the anal fin for fertilizing the eggs. Males may be more territorial in protecting their female and nest. After the female lays the eggs, the male will pass over the eggs fertilizing them. This may continue for several minutes to several hours. Angelfish Eggs

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The angelfish eggs will be laid on a large flat surface such as a leaf that was cleaned by the male prior to egg laying. The parents may vigilantly care for them by standing guard and even move the eggs around. Where they move their eggs to may surprise you. You may discover eggs stuck to the wall of the tank or even the filter. Inexperienced parents may just eat the eggs and your angelfish breeding days are done for now. The parents may be more successful with the next batch. Angelfish can spawn every two to four weeks. Take a close look at the eggs to determine if they are fertile. Dead or unfertilized eggs will be a solid white color. Clear or slightly yellow eggs that you can see into are fertile. With clear fertile eggs you should start seeing the fry wiggling within 48 hours. If you dont then the eggs have died, possibility because of a bacterial or fungal infection. The eggs will hatch 6 to 7 days after being laid. Angelfish Egg and Fry Care Once youve discovered the eggs, how much you choose to participate in the care of the fry depends largely on how many angelfish babies you want to see survive and are able to care for. Option 1 Leave Them Be: In a community tank with inexperienced parents, you are not likely to see any fry survive. Some parents will eat the eggs and any hatched fry. If the parents do not sufficiently protect the eggs, then other tank members will eat the eggs and fry. Also, gravel and tank filters where eggs and fry can get stuck are serious hazards and will limit how many fry survive. However, if this is not the first batch of eggs laid by your angelfish, they may have learned some parenting skills and take good care of the eggs. If your community tank is well planted with lots of hiding places for the fry, then you may have a couple angelfish babies survive into adulthood. Many hobbyists believe that allowing the parents to raise the fry is best. This allows for the strongest to survive and hopefully pass on good parenting genes. Option 2: Move the Eggs to a Hatching Tank: You can set up a small tank to raise the fry in. Then move the nest to that tank for hatching and fry care. If you want to get into serious angelfish breeding, put a flat slate into the tank for the fish to lay the eggs on. This will be easier to move to a hatching tank once the eggs are laid. Feeding Angelfish Fry The best food for the fry is just hatched brine shrimp fed several times a day. Other food options that you can try include Liquifry and Micro-feed. Your local aquarium store can help you choose a food for the baby angelfish. If you have left the fry with the parents then you may also notice the babies biting at the parents. After hatching the fry feed on body mucus (milk) secreted by the parents, reports 500 Freshwater Aquarium Fish. If too many fry survive, this behavior can harm and even kill the parent angelfish. At about 3 weeks after hatching you can try offering crumbled fish flakes with the live

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hatched brine shrimp. After about 6 weeks the babies should be able to survive on the fish flakes. These tips are for the accidental angelfish breeder. However, the process may get you hooked. If you are interested in becoming a more successful freshwater angelfish breeder then you will need to learn more about the different specific methods that other angelfish breeders have developed and found success with. Your local aquarium store can help connect you with local fish breeders to learn from. Reading books by experts and joining forum discussion will also help you learn successful freshwater angelfish breeding techniques. However, much of learning to breed fish comes from trial and error and learning what works best with your aquariums and fish
freshwater fishs

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Tips on Keeping Angelfish inside your Aquarium Fish Thailand

Dec 08 2010 Comments Off

If a person would like to have colourful aquarium fish thailand to their tank for your fish after that freshwater angelfish may be one of her or his most suitable choice. They come in several shapes and aquarium fish thailand colours and appearance stunning. aquarium fish thailand,Angelfish types will be commonly split into three aquarium fish thailand distinct types. The type of Pterophyllum scalare is the most widespread and very popular. For care in that case your angelfish may well live up to decade or higher. One of several kinds the particular ???Marble Angelfish??? is a very lovely along with spectacular sterling silver and also dark fish. This particular aquarium fish thailand may become adults to six in . in total and will are living more than decade. Some of them modify shade as we grow old as well as feeling. If you are planning to own angelfish straight into the aquarium fish thailand next it usually is recommended that you get no less than six or even eight angelfish together. Usually do not add as well outdated or even an excessive amount of grown-up fish and only add those who are at the height and width of a quarter or silver money as this will assure that theyre

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certainly not completely grown-up. Similar to a lot of bass enthusiasts you may even desire to decide on your own angelfish dependant on their particular shade. In case you have an operating aquarium fish thailand container and then its going to be preferable to put at the least 3 to 4 freshwater angelfish together. This may present these an improved chance to survive along with conform to the new natural environment. Angelfish demand a lots of fish tank area pertaining to floating around and playing and they like great deal regarding reside plant life. In addition, angelfish are very social and also would rather stop in an organization. Normally you will discover angelfish within nearly every family pet shop because theyre extremely popular as well as complete thing . to have these. Nonetheless, before choosing make sure that you are buying the particular bass with all the proper grow older and also sound wellbeing. In addition, carefully check how they speak with additional fish in the aquarium fish thailand. Simply by performing which, you should understand should they be way too hostile as well as fearful. You can be certain in which inside most instances angelfish will not nip or perhaps bite other species of fish if they are lifted in the group aquarium. Moreover, they are pleased as well as remain in excellent disposition if theyre in a very spacious aquarium with plenty associated with space regarding swimming as well as taking part in. Nevertheless, you must understand that angelfish are extremely shielding and also intense mom and dad. So they can assault some other fish when they think this kind of fish can harm their fry. Therefore it is easier to take away aquarium fish thailand,angelfish children with a independent aquarium and also keep them there prior to the infants tend to be who are aquarium fish thailand old enough to take care of themselves.

Freshwater Angelfish Breeding for Beginners

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Freshwater angelfish (Pterophyllum scarlare) are a popular aquarium fish species, and for good reason. They are attractive and easily make an eye catching addition to any community tank. They are also easy to breed. Whether you were planning to or not, you may one day discover that your angelfish are a breeding pair with the appearance of hundreds of eggs. Here are some tips on helping your angelfish care for those unexpected eggs. Basic Freshwater Angelfish Care First you need to understand the basic care needs of your freshwater angelfish. Having healthy parents will make it more likely that you have some eggs that hatch and survive. Angelfish are omnivores and eat most anything. Its best to feed them a variety of processed fish food, frozen fish food, and live foods such as brine shrimp reports author Joseph S. Levine in The Complete Fishkeeper. They will also eat fresh vegetables or your live aquarium plants. Water temperatures should be kept at about 75 to 85 degrees F and pH should 6.7 to 7.5. These are large fish as adults and do need a large tank, at least 30 gallons for two. For these tall fish, a tall tank rather than a long tank is better.

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Telling Male Angelfish from Female Angelfish Unfortunately, you may not truly know if you have a breeding male and female pair of angelfish until the fry hatch, as the males and females can be difficult to tell apart. Some things to look for are physical and behavior characteristics, but keep in mind that these are not foolproof. Sometimes females take on male behaviors and characteristics. Males have a small bump on the nose and develop a more pointed papilla near the anal fin for fertilizing the eggs. Males may be more territorial in protecting their female and nest. After the female lays the eggs, the male will pass over the eggs fertilizing them. This may continue for several minutes to several hours. Angelfish Eggs The angelfish eggs will be laid on a large flat surface such as a leaf that was cleaned by the male prior to egg laying. The parents may vigilantly care for them by standing guard and even move the eggs around. Where they move their eggs to may surprise you. You may discover eggs stuck to the wall of the tank or even the filter. Inexperienced parents may just eat the eggs and your angelfish breeding days are done for now. The parents may be more successful with the next batch. Angelfish can spawn every two to four weeks. Take a close look at the eggs to determine if they are fertile. Dead or unfertilized eggs will be a solid white color. Clear or slightly yellow eggs that you can see into are fertile. With clear fertile eggs you should start seeing the fry wiggling within 48 hours. If you dont then the eggs have died, possibility because of a bacterial or fungal infection. The eggs will hatch 6 to 7 days after being laid. Angelfish Egg and Fry Care Once youve discovered the eggs, how much you choose to participate in the care of the fry depends largely on how many angelfish babies you want to see survive and are able to care for. Option 1 Leave Them Be: In a community tank with inexperienced parents, you are not likely to see any fry survive. Some parents will eat the eggs and any hatched fry. If the parents do not sufficiently protect the eggs, then other tank members will eat the eggs and fry. Also, gravel and tank filters where eggs and fry can get stuck are serious hazards and will limit how many fry survive. However, if this is not the first batch of eggs laid by your angelfish, they may have learned some parenting skills and take good care of the eggs. If your community tank is well planted with lots of hiding places for the fry, then you may have a couple angelfish babies survive into adulthood. Many hobbyists believe that allowing the parents to raise the fry is best. This allows for the strongest to survive and hopefully pass on good parenting genes.

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Option 2: Move the Eggs to a Hatching Tank: You can set up a small tank to raise the fry in. Then move the nest to that tank for hatching and fry care. If you want to get into serious angelfish breeding, put a flat slate into the tank for the fish to lay the eggs on. This will be easier to move to a hatching tank once the eggs are laid. Feeding Angelfish Fry The best food for the fry is just hatched brine shrimp fed several times a day. Other food options that you can try include Liquifry and Micro-feed. Your local aquarium store can help you choose a food for the baby angelfish. If you have left the fry with the parents then you may also notice the babies biting at the parents. After hatching the fry feed on body mucus (milk) secreted by the parents, reports 500 Freshwater Aquarium Fish. If too many fry survive, this behavior can harm and even kill the parent angelfish. At about 3 weeks after hatching you can try offering crumbled fish flakes with the live hatched brine shrimp. After about 6 weeks the babies should be able to survive on the fish flakes. These tips are for the accidental angelfish breeder. However, the process may get you hooked. If you are interested in becoming a more successful freshwater angelfish breeder then you will need to learn more about the different specific methods that other angelfish breeders have developed and found success with. Your local aquarium store can help connect you with local fish breeders to learn from. Reading books by experts and joining forum discussion will also help you learn successful freshwater angelfish breeding techniques. However, much of learning to breed fish comes from trial and error and learning what works best with your aquariums and fish.

Freshwater Fish Species Profiles

o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o
African Butterfly Fish Angelfish Bala Shark, Silver Shark Bandit Corydoras Corydoras metae Betta Fish Siamese Fighting Fish Black Neon Tetra Black Phantom Tetra Black Skirt Tetra Bleeding Heart Tetra Blind Cave Tetra Astyanax jordani Blood Red Parrot Cichlid Bloodfin Tetra Blue Gourami Buenos Aires Tetra Cardinal Tetra Cherry Barb Chinese Algae Eater

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o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o

Clown Loach Colombian Tetra Convict Cichlid Corydoras Catfish Corydoras schwartzi Crayfish, Crawdad Discus Fish Dojo Loach Dwarf Gourami Elephantnose Fish Endlers Livebearer Firemouth Cichlid Ghost Shrimp Glowlight Tetra Gold Barb Goldfish, Fancy Goldfish Guppy, Fancy Guppy Harlequin Rasbora Head and Tail Light Tetra Hillstream Loach Beaufortia kweichowensis Inca Snail Indian Glassfish Iridescent Shark Catfish Jack Dempsey Fish Kissing Gourami Kribensis Cichlid Marble Hatchet Fish Mollies, Molly Fish Neon Tetra Odessa Barb Oscar Fish Otocinclus Catfish Pearl Gourami Piranha Platy, Platies Plecostomus, Pleco Pristella Tetra Pristella maxillaris Queen Arabesque Pleco Rainbow Shark Red Belly Pacu Fish Red Devil Cichlid Red Eye Tetra Red Tail Shark Rosy Barb Rosy Red Minnow Pimephales promelas Scissor Tail Rasbora Serpae Tetra Shell Dweller Cichlid Shellies Silver Arowana

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o o o o o o o o

Silver Dollar Fish Sparkling Gourami Trichopsis Pumila Swordtail Fish Tiger Barb Tinfoil Barb White Cloud Mountain Minnow White Skirt Tetra Zebra Danio

Angelfish
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Scientific Name : Pterophyllum scalare Common Names : Albino, Black, Gold, Silver, Marbeled Angelfish, Koi Angelfish, etc seems there is a common name for each color variety. Angelfish Care Level : Easy Size : Up to 6 inches (15 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 74F 84F (23C 29C) Water Hardness : 5 to 13 dH Lifespan : 8 10 years Origin / Habitat : Amazon River Temperament / Behavior : Generally peaceful, but can be aggressive eaters and may become territorial while breeding. Breeding Angelfish / Mating / Reproduction : Use pH of 7.0 and a higher temperature of 80F. They will lay the eggs on a vertical or diagonal surface. Assuming you have a pair, they are not difficult to breed. Read the article on breeding Angelfish for more information. Listed below is a short video on an Angelfish taking care of a fresh hatch: Angelfish Breeding Video (Low Speed 188 KB) Angelfish Breeding Video (High Speed 1.5 MB) Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum, prefer tall aquariums Compatible Tank Mates : Jump to profiles of fish that could potentially be kept with this fish: Pleco, Blue Gourami, Dwarf Gourami, Larger Tetras, Bala Shark Angelfish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Usually very good eaters, they will take flakes, pellets, freeze dried (blood worms, brine shrimp) and especially live foods. Tank Region : Middle Gender : There are no visible differences between the male and female. Only at spawing will you be able to tell the male from the female. A female has a round tear-drop shaped breeding tube and a male has a cone shaped breeding tube. Picture :

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The freshwater Angelfish is a very popular tropical fish because of its unique shape and because of their interesting personalities. Angelfish are aggressive eaters and will go to the top of the tank when they see you approach. Because of their aggressive feeding habits, make sure that your less aggressive fish are getting their share around feeding time. Angel fish are curious about their environment and can become very territorial, especially around breeding time. They will pair off and if any other fish tries to enter their territory they will go after them. They are not picky eaters. They will go after many types of fish food, including vitamin enriched flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods. They prefer tall tanks over short tanks because of their tall body shape

Bala Shark, Silver Shark

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Scientific Name : Balantiocheilos melanopterus Common Names : Bala Shark, Silver Shark, Tri Color Shark Minnow, Hangus, Silver Bala Care Level : Easy to Medium, needs lots of swimming space and a larger tank. Size : Up to 13 inches (33 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 72F 82F (22C 28C) Water Hardness : 5 to 12 dH, Lifespan : 8 10 years Origin / Habitat : South East Asia

Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful and can be kept with smaller fish. However, dont keep with tropical fish small enough to fit in the Balas mouth such as neon tetras.

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Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeding is not recommended in the home aquarium due to their large adult size. See the video above which might be breeding behavior or a maybe a courtship dance of some kind. Tank Size : 55 gallon minimum because of the large potential adult size of the Bala Shark. They will do much better in larger aquariums. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given the peaceful nature of this fish. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Good eaters, they will go after flakes, pellets, freeze dried and live foods. Give them a varied diet. Tank Region : All Gender : Hard to determine, but the female may be smaller than a male Silver Shark of the same age. Picture :

Also known as the Silver Shark, the Bala Shark is a growing favorite among tropical fish hobbyists. This tropical fish isnt a shark at all though. It belongs in the Cyprinidae family. They are named sharks because of their appearance and the shape of their dorsal fin. These sharks require large tanks because of their potential adult size of 13 inches. They are mostly peaceful but may eat smaller fish such as neon tetras when they reach a large enough size. Also, be warned that Balas (Silver Sharks) are excellent jumpers. Have a hood on your aquarium to prevent your Silver Shark from leaping to its death. They are very fast swimmers and will dart around your aquarium very quickly. Be sure you dont have any sharp objects in your aquarium that could injure your fish. They are not recommended for the beginner because of their large tank requirements. These freshwater sharks (not really sharks) will eat most types of fish food including vitamin enriched flake foods, pellets, frozen, freeze dried and definitely live foods with the key being a varied diet. They sometimes make a clicking noise while eating.

Bandit Corydoras Corydoras metae

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cientific Name : Corydoras metae Common Names : Bandit Cory Care Level : Easy Size : 2 inches (5cm) 44

pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 72F 75F (22C 24C) Water Hardness : Soft Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : Columbia, South America Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful and likes to be in groups Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeding them can be difficult in the home aquarium. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Anything that will not eat them or harass them too much. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Bottom feeder, they scavenge the food off the bottom of the tank. Supplement their diet with algae wafers and sinking shrimp pellets fed at night. Tank Region : Lower-bottom of the tank with the odd time of spawning surfaces being along the glass of the tank. Gender : Females are larger and rounder than the males of the same age. Picture :

The bandit cory is one of the many varieties of Corydoras species. It is of the regular size for the cories, which is about 2 inches. They also have relatively the same preferences for water parameters. These little fish like neutral water, 6.5-7.5 for the pH, the water being soft and the temperature being about 71.6 75.2F (22-24C). They come from the rivers of Columbia. So they prefer a well planted tank that has lots of hiding places. Their home should be at least 10 gallons for a school of just 3 cories. These fish, if cared for properly, will live to around 3 to 5 years. Since these are social little fish, they like to be in a school of at least 3 of the same species. If you want to have multiple cories in the tank, then try and have at least 3 of each species. Most species prefer the company of their own species, but if they have none of their own species, they will school with other species. These fish have such a peaceful nature, the C. metae can be put with many different fish, except larger cichlids, and any other fish that are big enough to eat the cory.

Betta Fish Siamese Fighting Fish

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Scientific Name : Betta splendens 45

Common Names : Siamese Fighting Fish Betta Splendens Care Level : Easy, excellent fish that is good for freshwater beginners and can be just as hardy as goldfish. Size : 2.5 inches (6 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 70F 85F (21C 29C) Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH, Life span : 2 3 years, possibly longer Origin / Habitat : Thailand Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful if given the right tank mates. They will become aggressive with other Bettas. They may also become aggressive towards other tropical fish with large fins such as guppies, angelfish and others. Breeding Bettas / Mating / Reproduction : Can be difficult since the male will fight the female if not introduced at the right time. For more information please read the breeding bettas and general info or this one Breeding the Betta. Betta Tank Size : Can be kept in small tanks as small as 2 gallons but they do best in larger tanks. Compatible Tank Mates : Not many because of their temperament. Tropical fish with regular size fins may do well, but avoid tropical fish with larger fins like guppies or angelfish. Betta Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Carnivore primarily, but will take flakes, freeze dried and live foods. Blood worms and brine shrimp can be used as well as foods made specifically for bettas. Tank Region : Top Gender : The male has much more color and bigger fins than the female. More Information : Betta Fish Care Guide, Mahachai Betta Gallery Photos : Betta Fish Photos

After goldfish, the Betta fish is probably the second most popular fish kept. The Betta Splendens is a favorite because of its beauty, its long fins and because they are relatively easy to care for. The males sport deep beautiful colors whereas the females are less colorful. It is called the Siamese Fighting Fish because of its behavior towards other males of the same species. You cannot keep two or more males in the same tank. If more than one male betta fish are placed in the same tank, they will fight until only one of them remains. They will flare out their gill covers and erect their fins showing the other fish their fighting posture. There are ways to see this behaviour without introducing another male. One way is to use a small hand mirror and place it up against the tank glass so that the male betta may see his reflection. He will mistake his reflection as another male and the betta fighting posture should then be displayed.

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More betta fish picture Betta fish care 10 useful tips

You can get small betta tanks that come with dividers which will allow you to keep two bettas in the same tank. Many keep them in small bowls and they may live for a while in these small bowls. However, to get the most beautiful colors and optimal health for your fish, they will do better in a 10 gallon or larger tank with a heater that can maintain a constant temperature in the aquarium. If you plan on keeping yours in a small tank, please read the small tank setup page for ideas on equipment needed. Also check out the Betta Tank Setup article written by COBC for the magazine that lists the equipment needed to keep a betta.

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Black Neon Tetra

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Scientific Name : Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi Common Names : Black Neon Tetra Care Level : Easy to Moderate Size : 1.5 inches (3-4 cm) pH : 5.5 7.0 Temperature : 72F 80F (22C 27C) Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : South America, Brazil Temperament / Behavior : Very peaceful and best kept in a small school (shoal) of 6 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and are egg layers. Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum (schooling fish) Compatible Tank Mates : They are a very peaceful little fish. Keep them in a small school and try not to keep them with larger fish that may be tempted to eat them, such as Angelfish Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : An omnivore provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they should accept flake food. Tank Region : Middle to bottom Gender : Can be difficult to determine, female may be more full bodied Gallery Photos : Black Neon Tetra Photos Similar Species : Characins, Tetras

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More Black Neon Tetra Pictures

The Black Neon Tetra is another great fish for planted aquariums where slightly acidic water conditions are present. They have a yellow-green strip that runs the length of the body with a black region under the yellow-green stripe. It looks really neat when you see a school of this fish darting about. The Black Neon is even smaller than the Cardinal Tetra and Neon Tetra and will display the same schooling behavior when kept in small groups of 6 or more. They are very peaceful and should not be kept with larger fish capable of eating them. Most Black Neons available in your local pet shops have been farm raised and should be relatively disease free, but you never know. Its always a good idea to keep any new fish in a Quarantine Tank for a few weeks for monitoring before introducing them into your main tank. The Black Neons can be sensitive to fluctuations in pH and temperature. You may also want to take a little longer when acclimating this fish to your tank water. Take an hour (instead of 15 minutes) and slowly add small amounts of tank water to the bag every 10 minutes or so. They will accept smaller fish food including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods.
More Fish Profiles

Black Phantom Tetra

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Scientific Name : Hyphessobrycon megalopterus Common Names : Black Phantom Tetra, Phantom Tetra Care Level : Easy Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 72F 80F (22C 27C) Lifespan : 3 5 years, perhaps longer Origin / Habitat : South America, various river basin areas Temperament / Behavior : This is a generally peaceful fish and does well when kept in a small school of 6 or more. However, they males may become aggressive with other male black phantom tetras around spawning time. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Can be difficult. They will need a tank all to themselves with no substrate since they are egg scatterers. Condition with high quality foods, lower the light levels and drop the pH slightly. More information on breeding this fish. Tank Size : 10 gallon minimum Compatible Tank Mates : Similar or smaller sized species (tetras, rasboras) that are comparable in temperament. Does well with other tetras. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : This fish is an omnivore, meaning that they will accept all sorts of foods. In the wild they are thought to feed on small insects but this can be difficult to reproduce for

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the average hobbyist. Give them a varied diet but provide a high quality flake food as the main portion. Treat them periodically to foods higher in protein such as blood worms and brine shrimp. Tank Region : Middle to bottom Gender : Females look more full bodied (eggs) and the male may become darker colored when ready to breed. Males may sport black fins whereas female fins may be more red in color.

More Black Phantom Tetra Pictures This fish, the Black Phantom Tetra, is a full bodied tetra with a black diamond patch with a green or silver outline on the sides of its body. The male can take on a darker color when ready to breed or when defending its territory in the aquarium against other black phantom tetras. Just like other tetras, this one is no exception when it comes to wanting to school. Plan on keeping them in groups of 6 or more. They will develop a pecking order amongst the group. Males may spar with each other but this activity should not cause any significant amounts of damage to them. They should do fine in a community setup with smaller less aggressive species. They like to occupy the middle and bottom levels of the aquarium. They are fairly good eaters and feeding them should be easy. The key is to provide a high quality and varied diet to bring out the wonderful colors of this fish. The photo with this fish profile doesnt do it justice. If youre planning on breeding them, your food selection becomes even more critical. High quality flake food with occasional live foods or frozen foods will fit the bill here. More infromaton

Black Skirt Tetra

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Scientific Name : Gymnocorymbus ternetzi Common Names : Black Skirt Tetra, Black Tetra, Black Widow Tetra Care Level : Easy, a good freshwater beginner fish. Size : 2 inches (6 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) 49

Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : South America, river basin areas Temperament / Behavior : A generally peaceful little tetra that needs to be in a school of 5 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Egg scatterer. The adults may eat the eggs. You will need a bare bottom breeding tank and will have to remove the adults after they release the eggs. Tank Size : 20 gallons (114 liters) a schooling fish and should be kept in groups of 5 or more. Compatible Tank Mates : You dont want to keep them overly aggressive tank mates. If you have a long fin black tetra, you will want to avoid putting them in a tank with known fin nippers such as tiger barbs. They have also been known to nip a fin or two themselves. Angelfish and Bettas should probably not be mixed with these tetras. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : The Black Skirt should eat most common aquarium foods. Flakes, frozen, freeze dried and may nibble at some aquarium plants. Tank Region : All over, but mostly in the middle and top areas of the fish tank. Gender : The female will usually be larger and the male may have a wider anal fin

The Black Skirt Tetra has a few different common names such as the Black Tetra and the Black Widow Tetra. They are very popular among hobbyists and usually available at most fish stores. There are some different color varieties (may be dyed fish, look closely) and even some long fin varieties. They may lose some of the black coloration as they age. Also check out the White Skirt Tetra profile. They can make a nice addition to a community tank with the right mix of tank mates. Avoid keeping them with known fin nippers like tiger barbs and likewise, avoid keeping them with fish that have larger fins such as Angelfish because Black Skirts have been caught nipping fins themselves. Try to keep your Black Tetras in groups of 5 or more to keep any fin nipping at a minimum, or at least amongst the school. They are not very demanding as far as water quality goes and can be recommended to the freshwater beginner. Try to keep them in a large enough tank so you can get a school of them and keep up with those water changes. However, they probably wont make it through a complete aquarium nitrogen cycle, so make sure that your tank is cycled before introducing them. Yes, this means that you definitely need to have an aquarium test kit. 50

They are not very picky when its chow time. Give them a variety of vitamin enriched fish foods and they should do well. Toss them some frozen foods every once in a while as a treat.

Bleeding Heart Tetra

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Scientific Name : Hyphessobrycon erythrostigma Common Names : Bleeding Heart Tetra, Red Tipped Tetra, Punto Rojo Care Level : Easy to Moderate, considered a good choice for freshwater fish beginners. Size : 3 inches (8 cm) pH : 6.5 7.0 Temperature : 72F 80F (22C 27C) Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : South America, Columbia Temperament / Behavior : Can be peaceful when kept in a small school (shoal) of 4 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and are egg layers. Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum Compatible Tank Mates : They are generally a peaceful fish but fin nipping may become a problem. Keep them in a small school and try not to keep them with fish with larger fins such as angelfish and bettas Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : An omnivore provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they will definitely accept flake food. Tank Region : Middle to bottom Gender : Female is more full bodied and the male has a larger dorsal fin

The Bleeding Heart Tetra is a fairly hardy tropical fish and a good one for freshwater fish beginners that practice good aquarium maintenance. They are sought after because they are a very nice looking fish and especially for the small red spot (heart) located on the sides. This is a fairly active fish that should bring lots of activity to your tank if kept in a small school (shoal). Like many tetras, the Bleeding Heart Tetra can be prone to fin nipping if kept individually. Try to keep 4 or more at a time to help make them feel more secure with their surroundings.

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The Bleeding Heart Tetra will accept most tropical fish food including flakes, freeze-dried, frozen and live foods. Its acceptable to use flakes as their primary diet but try to supplement their diet with frozen or live foods from time to time. This tetra is susceptible to the usual freshwater fish diseases. Even though they are usually farm raised now, they still may go through many shipping points and will be housed in various tanks by the time they reach your pet store. So dont forget to quarantine any of your new arrivals

Blind Cave Tetra Astyanax jordani

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Scientific Name : Astyanax jordani Common Names : Blind Cave Tetra, Mexican Tetra Care Level : Easy Size : 3.5 to 4 inches (~ 9 cm) pH : 6.0 to 7.5 Temperature : 68 77 F (20-25 C) Lifespan : 3 to 5 years, possibly longer Origin / Habitat : Texas, USA and Mexico Temperament / Behavior : Fairly peaceful, keep them in schools of 5 or more. May nip at tank mates. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Egg layer. Tank Size : Minimum of 20 gallon for just a school of 5 Compatible Tank Mates : Virtually anything that wont eat them or has relatively the same water parameter requirements Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, will accept flakes, granules, pellets, frozen foods and live foods. Tank Region : Middle of the aquarium Gender : No distinguishing external differences between the sexes. The females when full of eggs are wider when looked at from above

Blind Cave Tetras are a relatively new tetra to the mainstream aquarium keepers. As there name would indicate, they have no eyes. They are born with eyes as fry, but the eyes 52

degenerate and are reabsorbed back into the body at a few weeks old. There is a form that has eyes, although you do not generally see this version on the market. These cave tetras are also completely devoid of pigmentation. They are pink, but will get an iridescent sheen to them as they get older. These fish live in deep caves in the wild. They range from Texas to Mexico, with the sighted version from Mexico to Panama. There is no need for eye sight in the pitch black caves, so they have evolved to adapt to these conditions. A larger tetra, Blind Cave Tetras need a minimum of 20 gallons for a school of 5. They can reach up to 4 inches. They prefer subdued lighting, as it is closer to their natural habitat. A sand or small gravel is preferred. Although some will learn to eat off of the surface of the water, most will root in the substrate for food. They do very well on sinking food. They will eat anything that they can get a hold of from flakes, pellets, to live foods. They will also eat any eggs from other fish that may be in the substrate. Although they are blind, they very rarely swim into the tank sides, decor or other tank mates. They may nip at tank mates when first introduced into a new aquarium, but once they learn that they are not food they rarely do it again. These fish are being used in studies about eye growth and transplant. Many strides in the science of the eye have been reached because of research conducted on this fish. The results have scientists hopeful that there is a treatment to cure blindness in humans.

Blood Red Parrot Cichlid

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Scientific Name : none, a Hybrid Cichlid Common Names : Blood Red Parrot, Bloody Parrot Care Level : Moderate Size : 8 (20 cm) pH : 6.5 7.0 Temperature :72-82F (22-28C) Lifespan : about 10 years Origin / Habitat : Man-made, not present in Nature, but Parents are South American Cichlids Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Males are usually infertile. Can be bred with Midas, Severum and Convict Cichlids.Egg layer, open Breeder. Tank Size : Minimum 42 gallons, additional 10 gallons for each thereafter. Compatible Tank Mates : non aggressive fish species. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : omnivore, see above for more details. Tank Region : Bottom- mid dweller Gender : Even for experts, it is nearly impossible to sex them. Usually the only way is by dissection, or if they happen to lay eggs (an unlikely occurrence).

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Here is an odd ball man made Hybrid that has stirred quite a bit of controversy in the fish world but has gained a huge popularity with many. Whether you approve of hybrid fish or not, these wonderful fish are here to stay. They are very compatable for a community tank as they are peaceful, curious and they interact well with their fish keepers once they get to know you. Blood Red Parrot fish should not be confused with the true Parrot Cichlid (Hoplarchus Psittacus) or the Salt Water Parrot (Callyodon Fasciatus). When choosing Blood Red Parrot fish you will notice that the baby Parrots are very dark with stripes. As they start to grow they change color quickly from dark to a mottled black and orange to a true solid Orange. This happens very quickly within the first four months. History First created in Tiawan in the 1980s it was believed to be a cross between a male midas cichlid and a female red head cichlid but since then there have been many variations to include, Red Devil and Gold and Green Severums and lately to include the convict cichlid pairing as well.You can recognise the blood red parrot at first sight due to the unique traits this fish possesses. Its beak like head and mouth and round body with large eyes are characteristic of this fish. Their mouths do not close but stay open in a perpetual O shape. Their teeth are far down their throats so they pretty much bump into each other but cannot bite and are no match for an aggressive fish due to this deformity produced during breeding. Behavior BR Parrots are a shy fish that is timid but will acclimate to a community tank very nicely. They learn to recognise their owners and will come to the front of the tank to greet them. They do love to have their own clay pots or caves to hide in and I would recommend caves in their tanks. They seem to have so much fun swimming in and out of the caves. I find these fish to be very playful and they interact very well with each other and with dither fish as they swim around the tank. I would recommend them for anyone with a tank large enough who would like a peaceful set up with active fish.

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Bloodfin Tetra
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Scientific Name : Aphyocharax anisitsi Common Names : Bloodfin Tetra, True Bloodfin, Glass Bloodfin, Red Finned Tetra Care Level : Easy and can be fairly hardy if acclimated properly. A good freshwater beginners fish. Size : up to 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 70F 80F (21C 27C) Life span : 5 8 years Origin / Habitat : South America river basins Temperament / Behavior : This fish needs to be kept in a small school (shoal) of 6 or more to help keep it calm. It shouldnt pose a problem to its tank mates but watch closely for minor fin nipping. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Egg layers, they like to have water that is on the acidic side of the pH scale, lower aquarium lighting levels and pre-condition them with high quality foods such as live brine shrimp. The female will place the eggs on wide leaved aquarium plants. Youll need to remove the adults after this or the eggs will quickly disappear. After a few days the eggs should hatch and they fry will feed off their yolk sacs for a few days but then youll need to give them liquid fry food. After a week or so they should be able to eat baby brine shrimp. Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum (keep in small schools) Compatible Tank Mates : A peaceful fish thats best kept in a small school. Since they only get to be about 2 inches you wont want to keep them with other fish that are capable of eating them. They should do well in a community tank setup. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : In the wild they will eat small insects and worms. You should plan on giving them a good flake food as their primary diet but vary it with bloodworms, brine shrimp and other dried or frozen fish treats occasionally. Tank Region : Middle to Top Gender : Can be hard to determine, females may be more full bodied and have less red on the fins. Males are usually stream lined with more red on the fins. Gallery Photos : Bloodfin Tetra Photos

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The Bloodfin Tetra is a mainstay of the freshwater fish hobby and for good reason. They have silver bodies with an almost greenish hue (depending on the aquarium lighting) and red fins. A great freshwater beginners fish, they will to tolerate a wide range of water parameters. Some hobbyists even keep them in coldwater tanks or tanks without heaters. They will tolerate a lower temperature than other tropical fish, but use a heater to keep the temperature stable. Avoid widely fluctuating water temperatures that could stress your fish. They can get a little skittish at times. Keeping them in a school of 6 or more should limit this behavior and a larger tank with lots of open swimming space will help prevent them from getting injured. They are quite active and should bring lots of activity to a community tank or a tetra tank setup scheme. You may see them nipping at each other from time to time and this is normal behavior amongst the school. It should not be a cause for concern unless it seems to be getting out of hand. This is another fish that isnt too picky about what it eats. A good quality flake should form the main part of their diet with supplemental feeding of brine shrimp (live or dried), frozen freshwater foods and live foods such as worms or small insects.

Blue Gourami
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Scientific Name : Trichogaster trichopterus Common Names : Three Spot Gourami, Opaline Gourami Care Level : Easy Size : Up to 6 inches (15 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 74F 82F (23C 28C) Lifespan : 5 years or longer Origin / Habitat : Southeast Asia Temperament / Behavior : May be aggressive with males of the same species and with females of the same species after spawning. They may become skittish with larger tank mates.

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Blue Gourami Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and are egg layers. Breeding behavior is similar to the Betta Splendens. Males build a bubble nest and try to initiate spawning. Females should be removed after spawning and the male will tend to the eggs until they hatch. Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum Compatible Tank Mates : They can be relatively peaceful if kept with similar sized and larger tank mates. You may have issues when keeping them with other males. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : An omnivore provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they should accept flake food. Tank Region : Mostly top, sometimes middle Gender : Dorsal fin on males is longer and pointed while it is shorter and rounded on females.

The Blue Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) is also referred to as the Three Spot Gourami and sometimes even the Opaline Gourami. Its called the three spot because of the three spots on its body. The first two are visible (one on the middle of the body and one near the caudal fin) and the third spot is the eye. This fish is like the Betta Splendens in that it needs access to the water surface for using its specialized labyrinth organ in case of low oxygen levels. They can become aggressive and territorial with other tank mates and may be even more aggressive with other male blue gouramis. Once acclimated to your tank, they can be fairly hardy and can grow to a size of 6 inches (15 cm). Even though many of the available Blue Gouramis are tank raised its always a good idea to keep any new fish in a Quarantine Tank for a few weeks for monitoring before introducing them into your main tank. The Blue Gourami will accept smaller fish food including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods.

Buenos Aires Tetra

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Scientific Name : Hyphessobrycon anisitsi Common Names : Diamond Spot Tetra Care Level : Easy

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Size : 3 inches (8 cm) pH : 5.5 7.0 Temperature : 72F 80F (22C 27C) Lifespan : 3 5 years or longer Origin / Habitat : South America, Paraguay, Uruguay Temperament / Behavior : Can be fin nippers and best kept in a small school (shoal) of 6 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and are egg layers. They will scatter eggs in plants and they should hatch in 24 hours. Adult fish may eat the eggs. Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum (schooling fish) Compatible Tank Mates : They can be a pest (bullying smaller fish) when kept singly and you may see better behavior if kept in a small school of 6 or more. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : An omnivore provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they should accept flake food. They will eat live plants too. Tank Region : Middle to bottom Gender : Can be difficult to determine, female may be more full bodied

The Buenos Aires Tetra is one of the hardiest of the commonly available tropical fish but it may not make a good choice for a community tank or a live plant tank. They will view your live plants as a food source and will nibble at them. Since its best to keep them in small schools they can quickly destroy your live plant collection, so plastic plants are the way to go with this fish. The Buenos Aires is a larger tetra, growing sometimes up to 3 inches (8 cm) and if kept in good water conditions can live 3 to 5 years or more. If you are planning on keeping them in a community tank caution is advised. They can be fin nippers and may bully smaller tetras and slower tank mates. Keep them in schools of 6 or more which should help direct their aggression towards the other tetras instead of their more peaceful tank members. There is an albino type of this Tetra that will sometimes be available, but it is not as common as the regular version. This fish is a great eater and you should offer them smaller fish foods including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods. You may see more territorial aggression from them around feeding time.

Cardinal Tetra
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Scientific Name : Paracheirodon axelrodi Common Names : Cardinal Tetra Care Level : Easy, acclimate slowly to your tank water and dont even think about adding them to an aquarium that has not completed the aquarium nitrogen cycle. Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm) 58

pH : 5.5 7, prefer water slightly on the acidic side Temperature : 73F 80F (23C 27C) Water Hardness : 2 to 6 dH Lifespan : 2 5 years Origin / Habitat : South America Temperament / Behavior : This is a very peaceful tropical fish and best kept in schools of 6 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They can be difficult to breed in the home aquarium. They are egglayers and the adult fish must be removed after dropping the eggs. Provide low lighting and very soft water (1 to 3 dH). Feed the fry brine shrimp. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given their peaceful nature. Avoid keeping with tropical fish large enough to eat them. Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : Will go after flakes, live and freeze dried foods. Give them a varied diet for best results. Tank Region : Mostly middle to top. Gender : The male is usually smaller than a female of the same age. Similar Species : Characins, Tetras

The Cardinal Tetra looks very similar and is often confused with the Neon Tetra. The Cardinal Tetra will have the red stripe the full length of its body on the lower half, whereas the Neon Tetra will have the red stripe only half way. These tetras make excellent community tank mates and for best results you should keep them in a school (shoal) of 6 or more. The cardinals prefer water slightly on the acidic side and for best results youll want to acclimate them very slowly to your tank. Slowly mix in a little water from your tank to the bag they came in over a period of an hour or more. They can be very sensitive to dramatic changes in water chemistry (especially pH). Though these tetras should fare well if properly acclimated, this is not the fish to add to a new aquarium. Make sure that your tank has completed the aquarium nitrogen cycle. Give them a tank with low light levels and lots of aquarium plants. It can be difficult to differentiate the male from the female, but there is speculation that the females are a little bit larger than the male. They will accept all sorts of tropical fish food, including flakes, frozen and freeze dried foods and definitley live foods

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Cherry Barb
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Scientific Name : Puntius titteya Common Names : Crimson Carplet Cherry Barb Care Level : Easy, very good fish for freshwater beginners Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 72F 82F (22C 28C) Water Hardness : 5 to 25 dH, Lifespan : 5 7 years Origin / Habitat : Sri Lanka Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful and best kept in schools of 6 or more. They can be very shy. Try to keep them in a school to make them feel most comfortable. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Moderate. They will need an aquarium with plants because they hang their eggs from plants with thread like material. You will have to remove the adults because they most likely will eat the eggs. Tank Size : 5 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given their peaceful nature. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, they will take flakes, live and freeze dried foods such as brine shrimp, blood worms and daphnia. Tank Region : All over the tank Gender : The male is usually bigger and turns bright red when it is ready to spawn

Cherry Barbs are great tropical fish for the beginner because they can tolerate a wide range of water parameters. It is also a very peaceful and very good community fish that will bring lots of activity to your aquarium. They stay on the small side, usually 1.5 to 2 inches (5 cm) and should leave most of their tank mates alone. The Cherry Barb does best when kept in a school, preferably 6 or more them. It is interesting to note that they are almost extinct in the wild but are still doing very well within the tropical fish hobby. This really is a pretty little fish and the photos in this profile doesnt do them justice. They may be somewhat picky about their food when first acclimated to your tank (should be expected) but that should soon wear off and theyll be going after most of the commonly fed fish foods. 60

Put in some live plants and or artificial caves to provide hiding places to help make them feel secure. This fish should reward you with lots of activity and will bring a splash of color to your fish tank.

Chinese Algae Eater

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Chinese Algae Eater profile Scientific Name : Gyrinocheilos aymonieri Common Names : Chinese Algae Eater, Indian Algae Eater, Sucker Loach, Sucker Fish, Golden Algae Eater Care Level : Easy to Medium Size : Up to 11 inches (28 cm) pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Water Hardness : 8 to 12 dH Lifespan : 5 10 years Origin / Habitat : Asia Temperament / Behavior : As a juvenile it should be ok in a community tank but as it matures it can become a pest and should be removed from community tanks. Its probably best not to get them for community tanks in the first place. There are better algae eaters available for community tank setups. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Difficult to breed in the home aquarium. Tank Size : 55 gallon (208 liters) or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : As adults, they may attach to the sides of larger flat bodied fish such as Angelfish and damage scales. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : Mostly algae but reported to eat algae less as it matures. Supplement with algae wafers. Tank Region : Mostly on the bottom and sometimes on the tank walls and plant leaves. Gender : Very difficult to determine difference between male and female.

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The Chinese algae eater is commonly offered for sale in local pet shops but is probably not the best choice for most tanks. As juveniles they perform their job of eating algae with gusto but as they mature they may eat algae less and become very territorial. As they mature they may also start to affix themselves to the sides of larger flat bodied tank mates (such as Angelfish) and they will damage the scales of their victims. These algae eaters can sometimes jump out of tanks so you will need a good hood with no escape points. Just like other tropical fish, place your fish in a quarantine tank for a few weeks for monitoring before introducing them into your main tank. As juveniles they should eat the algae growing on the walls and objects in your tank but it has been reported that they will eat algae less when they mature. Avoid placing them in newly setup tanks lacking algae for them to graze on. Algae wafers can be used to supplement their diet

Clown Loach
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Clown Loach fish profile Scientific Name : Botia macracantha Common Names : Clown Loach Care Level : Medium, very prone to ich infestation and is not recommended for the freshwater aquarium fish beginner. Size : 12 inches (30 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 75F 85F (24C 29C) Water Hardness : 5 to 15 dH Origin / Habitat : Borneo, Sumatra

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Lifespan : 10 years and longer Temperament / Behavior : They are generally peaceful and can usually be kept in a community aquarium. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeding them can be difficult in the home aquarium. Read the following article for more information: Breeding Clown Loaches Tank Size : 55 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many given their peaceful nature. They do best when kept in a small school of 4 or more. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Will accept many types including flakes, freeze dried and live foods. Tank Region : Mostly the bottom Gender : Difficult to determine the gender.

Another favorite in the tropical fish world, the Clown Loach can live for a very long time, often 10 years or more if given good water conditions. They can be comical at times, like when they perform the strange behavior of laying on their side. Provide plenty of hiding spaces for your clown loach because they can also become quite shy at times. This is one of those fish that are more susceptible to ich than others. In fact, they are usually the first fish to die when water quality declines. For that reason, they are not recommended for the freshwater fish beginner. If you are planning on keeping them in your tank it may be a good idea to set up a quarantine tank for any fish you plan on adding to your tank. A quarantine tank will help prevent the spread of ich to your clowns. For fish food, the Clown Loach will go after vitamin enriched flakes and wafers but they seem to especially enjoy shrimp pellets.

Colombian Tetra
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Scientific Name : Hyphessobrycon colombianus Common Names : Red and Blue Colombian Tetra, Red Tail Mirror Blue Tetra Colombian Tetra Care Level : Easy to Medium Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 6 7 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Water Hardness : 6 to 15 dH Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : Colombia, South America 63

Temperament / Behavior : Keep them in small school (shoal) of 6 or more. They can be an aggressive tetra, so avoid keeping them with fish that have larger fins to avoid fin nipping. They may also bully smaller tank mates. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They can be difficult to breed in the home aquarium. They are egg layers. Tank Size : 20 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Similar semi-aggressive tetras and fish that can take fo themselves since this fish can be a bully. Colombian Tetra Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : Not picky eaters, they should accept flake, frozen, freeze dried and live food. Tank Region : Mostly middle and bottom. Gender : Hard to tell the difference between male and female from any visible signs. Females may bulge with eggs when ready to spawn.

The Red Colombian Tetra is a relatively recent addition to the list of aquarium specimens available for sale. They are a somewhat larger tetra than can be semi-aggressive with smaller tank mates and may fin nip fish with larger fins. They do really well in schools (shoal) of 6 or more and may be behave better if kept in schools. They come from Colombia, South America hence the common name. It is difficult to determine the difference between male Colombian Tetras and females by visible signs, but the female should appear slightly thicker when swelling with eggs. The Colombian Tetra should accept common aquarium foods such as flake, frozen and freeze dried foods. They are not picky. Its always a good idea to quarantine your Colombian Tetras before introducing them to your main tank so that you can monitor them for disease and also provide them with optimal water conditions and no competition from other tank mates for fish food.

Convict Cichlid
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Scientific Name : Archocentrus nigrofasciatus Common Names : Convict Cichlid, Zebra Cichlid, Albino Convict Care Level : Easy Size : Up to 4 inches (10 cm) pH : 7 8 64

Temperature : 70F 80F (21C 27C) Water Hardness : 10 to 15 dH Lifespan : 8 10 years, maybe slightly longer Origin / Habitat : Guatemala, Central America Temperament / Behavior : Like many cichlids, the convict cichlid is no exception when it comes to defending its territory, especially when breeding. They will protect themselves and may harm other fishes. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Very easy to breed them and they are great parents. Provide a clay or plastic type of cave (flower pot) and they should pair up assuming you have a male and female. They should place the eggs on the walls or top of the flower pot. Eggs should hatch within 3 to 4 days and the parents may relocate them to a pit where they can watch over them. Another 4 to 5 days later they should be free swimming and you should feed them crushed flake food and/or brine shrimp. Tank Size : 20 gallons (78 liters) Compatible Tank Mates : If youre trying to breed them its best to keep them as a pair in a tank by themselves. They should do well with other larger cichlids but you may see some aggression from time to time. Dont put convict cichlids in a community aquarium. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : They should accept nearly all aquarium fish foods including flakes, frozen, freeze dried, live and cichild pellets. Tank Region : Bottom to middle areas of the tank. Gender : Males may be larger than females of the same age. Females usually have pink or orange on the belly. Males may have longer dorsal fins.

The Convict Cichlid is probably ranked number 3 out of all cichlids as far as popularity goes, with Angelfish and Oscars being 1 and 2 respectively. They have the common name of convict cichlid because of the white and black contrasting patterns they sport. Males may be larger than females of the same age and the females may have a pink or orange tint to the belly region. There is an Albino Convict Cichlid as well. This fish can get to be about 4 inches (10 cm) and should do fine in a 20 gallon (78 liters) or larger aquarium. This is a fascinating species that is known as being a profilic breeder. If you have a male and female, chances are youre going to get some baby convicts soon. All they need are stable water parameters and a cave or flower pot for securing the eggs. They will get quite aggressive in protecting their territory and they should not be kept with peaceful community type fishes. The great part about breeding convict cichlids is watching the parental care given to the fry. This can provide hours of enjoyment. Keeping a pair in a community tank is just asking for trouble. If you have only one, you may be able to get away with keeping them with peaceful species but caution is still advised. They should eat nearly everything offered including flakes, frozen and live foods. Look for cichlid pellets which can give them all the vitamins and minerals they need

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Corydoras Catfish
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Scientific Name : Corydoras spp. Common Names : Albino Corydoras, Armored Catfish, Plated Catfish, Bronze Catfish, Mailed Catfish, Cory Catfish Care Level : Easy Size : 2.5 inches (6 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 72F 78F (22C 26C) Water Hardness : 5 to 18 dH, Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : South America Temperament / Behavior : Very peaceful. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeding them can be difficult in the home aquarium. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, due to their peaceful nature. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Bottom feeder, they will scavenge around the tank looking for scraps. Supplement their diet with Algae Wafers that sink to the bottom of the tank. Tank Region : Bottom Gender : Females are larger and rounder than the males of the same age. Gallery Photos : Corydoras Photos

The Corydoras Catfish, or Cory Cat, is an excellent addition to most community tanks because of their peaceful nature. Bottom dwellers, they are content to constantly rummage around the bottom of the tank looking for scraps. They prefer to be in schools of 6 or more but many keep one or two corydoras in their smaller tanks. Cory cats enjoy feeding on tropical fish food that will sink to the bottom such as algae wafers or shrimp pellets

Corydoras schwartzi
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Scientific Name : Corydoras schwartzi Common Names : Schwartzs Cory Care Level : Easy Size : 2.8 (7cm) pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 72F 75F (22C 24C) Water Hardness : Soft Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : Brazil, South America Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful and likes to be in groups Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeding them can be difficult in the home aquarium. 66

Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Anything that will not eat them or harass them too much. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Bottom feeder, they scavenge the food off the bottom of the tank. Supplement their diet with algae wafers and sinking shrimp pellets fed at night. Tank Region : Lower-bottom of the tank with the odd time of spawning surfaces being along the glass of the tank. Gender : Females are larger and rounder than the males of the same age. Gallery Photos : Corydoras Photos

The Schwartzs cory is one of the many varieties of Corydoras species. It is of the regular size for the cories, which is about 2.5 to 3 inches. They also have relatively the same preferences for water parameters. These little fish like neutral water, 6.5 7.5 for the pH, the water being soft and the temperature around 71 75F (22-24C). They come from the rivers of Brazil. So they prefer a well planted tank that has lots of hiding places. Their home should be at least 10 gallons for a school of just 3 cories. These fish, if cared for properly, will live to around 3 to 5 years. Since these are social little fish, they like to be in a school of at least 3 of the same species. If you want to have multiple cories in the tank, then try and have at least 3 of each species. Most species prefer the company of their own species, but if they have none of their own species, they will school with other species. These fish have such a peaceful nature, the C. schwartzi can be put with many different fish, except larger cichlids, and any other fish that are big enough to eat the cory. These cory cats are hard to spawn in the home aquarium, but if you are able to spawn them, it is very rewarding, because these fish usually go for about $7 to $10 a piece in the local stores

Crayfish, Crawdad
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Scientific Name : Cambaridae Camburus Common Names : Crawdad, Crayfish, Crawfish Crayfish Care Level : Easy Size : Usually up to 3 inches (8 cm), sometimes larger Life span : 2 5 years, possibly longer

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pH : 6 8 Temperature : 60F 80F (16C 27C) Water Hardness : 5 to 15 dH, Origin / Habitat : Different species all over the world Temperament / Behavior : May fight with other invertebrates and go after smaller fish. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Tank Size : 10 gallon minium Compatible Tank Mates : Dont keep with fish capable of eating them. May also eat smaller fish. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Food : Omnivore Tank Region : Bottom Gender : Difficult to determine except when females carry the eggs. Gallery Photos : Crayfish Photos

Youll want to provide stable water parameters for your crayfish and provide some sort of hiding place for when they molt. They may eat smaller slow moving fish and can also get eaten by larger fish. Having multiple crawfish in your tank may cause territorial problems as well. Try to provide well oxygenated water. Use airstones to provide water surface agitation. Crawdads are very good at getting out of the tank so youll need to have a tight fitting hood with no possible escape points. If you have the right setup, this invertebrate can make an interesting addition to your tank

Discus Fish
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Scientific Name : Symphysodon aequifasciatus Common Names : Many, due to color patterns: Cobalt Discus, Blue Discus, Blue Faced, Blue-Head, Red Thunder, Blue Red Turquoise, Marlboro Red, Pigeon Blood, Green, Brown, Snake Skin, Spotted Strawberry, the list goes on and on and on. Discus Care Level : Moderate to Difficult, needs frequent partial water changes to keep water parameters at optimum levels. Size : Up to 6 inches (15 cm) pH : 5 7 Temperature : 80F 86F (27C 30C) 68

Water Hardness : 1 to 8 dH, Life span : If well cared for, they can live for 10 years or more. Origin / Habitat : Amazon River Temperament / Behavior : Very peaceful most of the time. They may become territorial when they pair off to breed. Discus Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeding them can be very difficult because of the pristine water conditions that they require. Tank Size : 30 gallon minimum, prefer tall aquariums Compatible Tank Mates : It is usually best to keep them in a species only tank because of their water requirements. The Cardinal tetra and Corydoras, Cory Cat are sometimes kept in tanks with them and make good tank mates. Discus Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Prefer live foods but you may need to supplement with foods enriched with vitamins. Try to vary their diet for optimum health. There are foods made specifically for Discus. Tank Region : Middle Gender : The genital papilla is pointed in males, and rounded in females. You have to observe them when they are spawning.

The Discus is known as the King of the Aquarium. Perhaps the most beautiful of all tropical fish, the Discus is also one of the more difficult tropical fish to keep and is not recommended for beginners. They require excellent water conditions, frequent water changes and higher water temperatures than most other tropical fish. Most successful keepers house them in a species only tank because of the high water temperature requirement. There are many color varieties to choose from with many more being introduced all the time. If you are interested in this fish, be prepared to spend some jack on this one of a kind tropical fish. If youre on the market to buy Discus, there are many online websites that specifically sell Discus. Shop around and get recommendations from others for good places to buy them. Many fishkeepers will only get the best available foods for this fish. Vitamin enriched flakes and live, frozen and freeze dried foods can be given.

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Dojo Loach
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Scientific Name : Misgurnus anguillicaudatus Common Names : Weather Loach, Japanese Weatherfish, Oriental Weatherfish Care Level : Easy, good for a freshwater fish beginner Size : Up to 10 inches (25 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 65F 75F (18C 24C) Water Hardness : 5 to 12 dH Lifespan : 7 10 years Origin / Habitat : North East Asia to China in rivers and lakes, likes muddy substrates. Temperament / Behavior : This loach can be kept as a single but may do better and have increased activity levels if kept with multiple loaches. May be aggressive with much smaller fish, but should do fine with most fish with similar care requirements. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Not very common in the home aquarium. May need cooler water temperatures for spawning. Tank Size : 30 gallons (114 liters) Compatible Tank Mates : Try to keep them with species with compatible water parameters, (cooler temperature) white cloud mountain minnows or in a species only tank. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : They should accept nearly all aquarium fish foods and will scavenge around much of the time. Tank Region : Mostly the substrate or resting on objects in the tank. Gender : Very difficult to determine gender differences externally.

The Dojo Loach is a fairly popular fish in the aquarium trade usually costing anywhere from $8 $15 US Dollars. It is sometimes called the Weather Loach because of its reported behavior when the barometric pressure drops. Some hobbyists have reported witnessing increased activity levels, erratic swimming, etc. when storms are approaching. They are originally from North Eastern Asia and China but have been imported and introduced into other habitats in various places around the world not always with good results. This Loach is considered a food source in some Asian countries. They can be considered a good fish for the freshwater fish beginner because it generally has undemanding water parameters, except for the temperature. They need lower water temperatures in the 65F 75F range (18C 24C) which may limit the number of possible 70

tank mates. Provide them with a softer substrate because they like to burrow. Sand or aquarium gravel that is rounded should suffice. They are accomplished escape artists and will find any open holes in the top of the tank. Make sure your tank hood is well secured. It is interesting to note that this fish can breathe in air when the oxygen levels in the water become depleted. So, if yours has jumped from the tank, try putting it back in the tank as soon as possible. You never know Provide some hiding places for your loaches to help make them feel more secure. A cave of some sort or a bunch of plants (real or artificial) can provide really good hiding places. Feeding them should not be a problem. They will accept nearly everything you offer them. Give them a variety of aquarium fish foods such as sinking shrimp pellets, frozen or freezedried blood worms and vitamin enriched flake foods

Dwarf Gourami
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Scientific Name : Colisa lalia Care Level : Easy, good for freshwater beginners with a tank that has completed the aquarium nitrogen cycle. Size : 3 inches (8 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 77F 82F (25C 28C) Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH, Life span : 3 4 years Origin / Habitat : India Temperament / Behavior : Mostly peaceful and hardy, they are good fish for beginners. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Can be difficult. They build bubble nests for their eggs. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given their usually peaceful nature. They may become slightly territorial if placed in a smaller tank with other Dwarfs. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Will eat flake, freeze dried and live foods. Vary their diet for optimum health. Tank Region : Middle to top Gender : Easy to determine. The male is more colorful while females are usually gray. Gallery Photos : Dwarf Gourami Photos

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More Common Names: Blue Dwarf Gourami, Sunset Gourami, Powder Blue Gourami, Neon Dwarf Gouramis Originating in the waters of India, the Dwarf Gourami is not only beautiful but they can be particularly hardy as well. The male is more colorful while the females are less colorful. Usually the female Dwarf Gourami is gray in appearance. There are a couple of color varieties including the Blue and the Flame Red. They make a great addition to a fully cycled community tank and are easy to care for. They should accept most fish food including flakes, freeze-dried, frozen and live foods. If you notice the coloration on your dwarf gouramis starting to fade, try supplementing their diet with freeze dried blood worms or live foods once in a while. They are not picky eaters

Elephantnose Fish
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Scientific Name Gnathonemus petersii Common Names Elephantnose Fish, Peters Elephant Care Level Medium/ Difficult. This fish needs perfect water and is somewhat intolerant to medication. Size 9-13 inches (23-53 cm) pH 6-7.2 Temperature 73-82*F (23-28*C) Lifespan 6-10 years Origin / Habitat They are native to the slow, murky waters of Africa, mainly around Niger. Temperament / Behavior Peaceful, but cannot be kept in pairs because the weaker one will be harassed. If you want to keep them in groups, they need to be in 5 or more, so the aggression will be spread out. Tank Size 40 or more gallons for one full grown specimen. Tank needs to have an extremely strong, tight hood, because these guys are jumpers

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Compatible Tank Mates Anything peaceful, it will not be able to compete for food otherwise. Tetras, angelfish, gouramis, etc. They have also been successfully kept with discus. Breeding Very difficult to breed in captivity. Studies have shown that when introduced into aquaria, the electrical organ that is used to find food can get reversed from male to female, making it impossible for even the fish to tell the gender of their tankmates. Fish Disease No major diseases that they are susceptible to, but they can be sensitive to even basic medications, so great caution should be used, and instructions read carefully when treating. Feeding / Diet They are primarily scavengers, who sense food with their nose, then bring it to their mouth, much like real elephants, except that the mouth is above the trunk, rather than below. They love brine shrimp and bloodworms, frozen or live, but will rarely accept flakes. Tank Region Bottom Gender Impossible to tell without dissection.

The Elephantnose Fish, or Peters Elephant, are very unique fish that not many hobbyists can say they have. They are thin and oblong, primarily dark brown or gray with white markings and a long trunk-like nose, thus the name, elephantnose. They are shy, sensitive fish, who need pristine water conditions to thrive. They are, in fact, so delicate, that they are used at government water departments in the USA and Germany to test the quality of the water. Whether this is humane or not is debatable; the point is that an elephantnose needs to be added to a fully cycled, mature tank. Elephantnoses are very timid and nocturnal. A very well planted tank with multiple hiding places in the form of driftwood, pots and pipes is a must, otherwise your elephant nose will be very stressed. Soft gravel is also necessary, so they dont damage their sensitive noses. Hobbyists have reported that these fish only swim in the open when all lights in the room are completely off, yet others say that their fish are very active, and will swim around their owners hands during water changes, so its sort of hit or miss. The fish will be much more friendly, however, once comfortable in its surroundings. One tip for viewing your elephant nose during the day is to purchase some see-through plastic pipes, and put a few plants in front. That way the elephantnose can feel secure, and you can view them. Elephantnoses are a member of the Mormyridae family, or electric fish. They emit small electrical pulses from an organ located inside their nose. The pulses will change with the mood of the fish. Female elephantnoses have shorter pulses, males longer. They also have

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very poor eyesight, so this organ helps them navigate around the tank. This slight electricity should not hurt the other fish in the tank.

Endlers Livebearer
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Scientific Name : Poecilia wingei Other Common Names : Endler Livebearer Care Level : Easy to moderate Size : 1.5 inches (4cm) pH : 7 7.5 Temperature : 75 85&dge;F (24 29C) Water Hardness : Soft to moderately hard water Origin / Habitat : Laguna de Los Patos, Venezuela Lifespan : 3 5 years Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful, great for established community tanks Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Livebearers and not hard to breed. Very similar to guppies, read the breeding guppies article. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, as long as they arent being housed with fish that will nip the fins or eat the fish, like tiger barbs, some tetras, various other barbs, etc. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Flake food, frozen food, and live food. Vary the diet for excellent health, and color. Tank Region : Middle to top Gender : The males are a fluorescent color, while the females are a silver color. Similar Species : Guppies and other livebearers Gallery Photos : Livebearer Photos

The Endlers Livebearer is thought to be just a color variant of the common guppy (Poecilia reticulate), but it is under debate whether that is true or not. They are a really nice looking livebearer that the true wild strain is almost extinct, if not already is. The males of this species is a fluorescent color while the females are a plain silver or grey, but that is the true strain. It is also sometimes considered a dwarf version of the guppy since this fish gets to be only about 1-1.5 while the guppy gets to about 2. Since this fish is so close to the guppy, it is kind of hard to write something original for it, but it is also different in the fact that it comes from a different area of the world and it is a different adult size. Other then that, the breeding of them is the same, which is the male Endler gets the female pregnant and then the female holds the embryos until they are developed enough and then the female gives birth to fully developed young after 20-40 days. 74

Then the fry will grow up normally if they are given lots of protein enriched food as well as some vegetable matter, like algae wafers every couple of days. The best food for new fry are either live baby brine shrimp, or frozen baby brine shrimp, as it is small enough for them to eat and grow big on the food. They prefer a tank that has a neutral pH and soft-moderately hard water. The tank should be planted, with either live plants or fake, with the temperature 75-85F (24-29C). To get them to show the best colors is by having two females to every male, and by feeding them a variety of foods, from frozen foods, to flake foods, to live foods. But make sure to only feed them foods that will be able to fit in their small mouths. If they are given what they need for food, and what they like for a home, they will be great fish to keep and watch as they grow and have many fry and watch the cycle of life. The Endler is a great fish to keep as long as it is in a tank with peaceful community fish. Mostly fish that wont eat the fins or the fish is a good rule when it comes to keeping virtually and fish. But like most fish, these fish do better in a tank on their own, so they can breed and multiply all on their own, without any disturbance from other fish eating the fry.

Firemouth Cichlid
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Scientific Name : Thorichthys meeki Common Names : Red Breasted Cichlid Red Devil Care Level : Easy to Moderate Size : 6.7 inches (17 cm), possibly larger pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Lifespan : 8 years or longer Origin / Habitat : Central America, Belize river, Mexico, Guatemala Temperament / Behavior : May get aggressive when they form pairs and are breeding. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Get them ready by providing high quality foods and you may want to raise the tank water temperature slightly. Slowly raise the temperature a couple of degrees over a 2 day time period (aim for a temp around 82F or around 28C). If they have paired off and are getting overly aggressive with their tank mates, you will need to use a tank divider or plan on separating them. They should place the eggs on a flat rock, tipped over flower pot or pvc pipe. The female will protect the eggs while the male protects the area around the nest. After 3 or 4 days, the eggs hatch and the parents will move them to another location for another couple of days until the babies are swimming. Like many cichlids, the firemouth is no exception when it comes to taking care of their young. Plan on feeding finely crushed flake foods, baby brine shrimp or other fry foods. Tank Size : 30 gallon for a pair, much larger for multiples. Compatible Tank Mates : Some hobbyists report that they keep them with larger tetras originating from Central America and they co-exist just fine with the Firemouth. Use caution and be prepared to remove fish if you see signs of aggression. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment. They are fairly hardy but are not immune to ich infestations. Use a quarantine tank for new arrivals! Diet / Fish Food : This fish is not a picky eater. They should go after all foods and it is easy to provide a balanced diet. Using a Cichlid Pellet Food can provide many of the vitamins and nutrients they need. They may eat fish that are very small. Tank Region : Likes to hang out by their turf. Gender : Females are usually smaller, less colorful and males will develop an extended point on the dorsal fin. Gallery Photos : Firemouth Cichlid Photos 75

Similar Species : Cichlids

This is often recommended as a great first cichlid for beginners to cichlid keeping. The Firemouth Cichlid can be extremely hardy and will tolerate a wide range of water parameters. Obviously, they are great adapters but try to maintain them at recommended parameters (see below). If youre interested in this cichlid it should be relatively easy to locate them at a local fish store and since they are so common they should be inexpensive. They get to be around 6 inches or so as adults. Flat rocks formed into caves can be a good idea and it can help make them feel secure. Keeping them with live plants can be challenging since they sometimes will dig in the substrate. If youre interested in breeding them, you will need to provide an over turned flower pot, pvc pipe or something similar for them to deposit their eggs in. The get their common name firemouth because of the display of the males in this species around spawning time. They develop a red coloration on the bottom side of the body and can extend the red area under the gills to warn other fish to keep out of their territory. Many hobbyists keep them in tanks with other species but it is recommended that you use caution if you plan on doing the same. While they are not as aggressive as some other cichlids, they can still get territorial around breeding time. The Firemouth cichlid is not picky when it comes to fish food. Flakes, live and frozen foods are taken with gusto. There are many fish foods (pellets, sticks) made especially for cichlids that can be a great source for most of the vitamins, minerals and other nutrients they need to thrive.

Ghost Shrimp
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Scientific Name : Palaemonetes sp. Common Names : Glass Shrimp, Grass Shrimp Care Level : Easy Size : 1 2 inches (3 5 cm) Life span : 1 2 years, sometimes longer pH : 6.5 8 Temperature : 65F 80F (18C 27C) Origin / Habitat : Found in multiple places throughout North America, mostly farm raised for the pet fish trade Temperament / Behavior : Sometimes will eat baby fish, they are usually food for other fish, sometimes will fight among themselves if the tank is too small and there are too many of them.

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Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : If you put several of them in your tank then they will mate and the female will carry small eggs in her belly which you can see. Happens without you doing anything. If you want to raise the young then you need to move the female to a separate tank before she has her babies and add the appropriate amount of aquarium salt. Tank Size : 5 gallons (19 liters) Compatible Tank Mates : Use caution when selecting tank mates if you want to keep them. Larger fish may find them irresistible and eat them. Smaller, peaceful fish species may be able to co-exist with them. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease They are not very susceptible to disease but are susceptible to chemicals that treat fish diseases. Look for warnings stating not good for invertebrates on the bottle. Stay away from using any copper based medications in a tank with ghost shrimps. Diet / Fish Food : Omnivorous will eat almost anything you feed it and also a good bottom feeder. This is not an effective algae eater. Tank Region : Usually stays close to its burrow in the sand or gravel. Gender : Hard to determine, no noticeable external differences between males and females. Females will carry the eggs.

The Ghost Shrimp is a cool little freshwater shrimp that you may be interested in keeping if you have the right tank setup. They are sometimes called the Glass Shrimp because they have a semi-translucent body. This is a very inexpensive shrimp to purchase and should live for a year or two and sometimes even longer. They are frequently used by fishermen as fish bait and they are considered pests by clam farmers who spend lots of money trying to eradicate them from their clam farms. For hobbyists, they can provide an interesting addition to a tank stocked with smaller, less aggressive fish species. Larger fish may find them irresistible and will just love eating them. Ghost Shrimp need to build a borrow to feel secure so you will need to provide a sand or very small sized gravel substrate that will allow them to create a shelter for themselves. You may be able to keep multiples provided that you have a tank large enough to support multiples. You may see some aggressive behavior amongst them around breeding time. This is a somewhat decent scavenger and will go after all fish foods placed into the tank. Make sure they are getting enough to eat by dropping in a sinking shrimp pellet or algae wafer every once in a while. If you have your ghosties in a tank with fishes that need treatment for diseases you will need to remove the shrimps to a separate tank while medicating. Beware especially of any medications containing copper. Run activated carbon through the aquarium filter and make sure you remove all of the medications before introducing them back into the tank

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Glowlight Tetra
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Scientific Name : Hemigrammus erythrozonus Common Names : Glo-lite Tetra, Glowlight Tetra, Fire Neon Tetra Glow Light Tetra Care Level : Easy to Moderate, slowly acclimate them to your tank using a slow drip. Size : Up to 1.5 inches (4 cm) pH : 5.5 7 Temperature : 72F 80F (22C 27C) Lifespan : 5 years or longer Origin / Habitat : Guyana, South America Temperament / Behavior : A very small tetra that needs to be kept in small schools (shoal) of 5 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and are egg layers. They need very soft (4 dkh) and water that is on the acidic side. May need subdued lighting levels and live foods to trigger spawning. Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum Compatible Tank Mates : They can be very peaceful and should kept with similar sized tank mates. Avoid keeping them with larger fish capable of eating them. Does well with the Neon Tetra and the Black Neon Tetra. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease use a Quarantine Tank for all new fish! Diet / Fish Food : An omnivore provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they should accept flake food. Tank Region : Middle to bottom Gender : Can be difficult to determine, females are usually a little larger. Similar Species : Characins, Tetras

The Glowlight Tetra is a really nice looking tetra with an orange-red stripe that runs the length of its semi-transparent body. Proper aquarium lighting levels with a dark fish tank bottom can help enhance the colors of this fish. They are slightly smaller than other commonly available tetras and should be kept with similar sized and non-aggressive species. They will do really well in an aquarium with live plants. Like other small tetras, such as the Neon Tetras, this fish does best in small schools (shoal) of 5 or more. Do not keep them with larger species that could potentially eat them. Even if you keep them in schools they can still be a little shy, keeping a low profile most of the time.

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Glowlight Tetras are readily available and are usually very inexpensive. There is a golden Glowlight and albino variety being offered for sale too. Its always a good idea to keep your new Glowlights in a quarantine tank for a few weeks for monitoring before introducing them into your main tank. Many of the Glow-light tetras available are now being farm raised but this fish can still be sensitive to fluctuations in pH and temperature. You may want to take a little longer when acclimating them to your tank water. Take an hour (instead of 15 minutes) and slowly add small amounts of tank water to the bag every 10 minutes or so. This tetra will accept smaller fish food including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods (crickets and worms). They may also eat smaller top dwelling fish

Gold Barb
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Scientific Name : Puntius sachsii Other Common Names : Goldfinned Barb, Golden Barb Care Level : Easy and can be good fish for freshwater beginners Size : Up to 3 inches (8 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 72F 82F (22C 28C) Water Hardness : 5 to 25 dH, Lifespan : 5 7 years Origin / Habitat : Asia, Singapore Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful and best kept in schools of 6 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Moderate. It is believed that the reproductive cycle of this fish can be closely tied to the cycles of the moon. Hmmm Males may take on a slightly different color when in breeding mode. They will need an aquarium with plants because they spawn in the plants, such as java moss. You will have to remove the adults because they most likely will eat the eggs. Fry should hatch in a couple days and then youll need to feed them liquid fry food and baby brine shrimp or other good fry foods. Tank Size : 20 gallon or larger since they like to school. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given their generally peaceful nature. Would do well in community tanks and Barb themed aquarium setups. However, use caution if you have long finned fish such as Angelfish and Bettas. They may fin nip at these longer finned fish. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Can sometimes be one of the first to show signs of ich. Use a quarantine tank for all new arrivals. Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, they will eat flakes, live and freeze dried foods such as brine shrimp, blood worms and daphnia. Tank Region : Middle to bottom regions of the tank Gender : The male is usually smaller, more stream lined and sometimes turns a more golden/orange color when it is ready to spawn.

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This is another hardy freshwater fish that is good for beginners. The Gold Barb will tolerate a wide range of water parameters, stays relatively small (3 inches 8cm), is quite colorful and should play nicely with most tank inhabitants. They have a mostly gold colored body with small dark or black patches running down the lateral line of the body. They may not do very well in planted aquariums because they may nip at the plants. If you have a heavily planted tank you may be able to keep a few of these, but if your tank is sparsely populated with plants they may rid you of your plants. Behavior wise, they do best when kept in a school of 5 or more and they may bicker among the school about the pecking order. Avoid keeping them with long finned fishes such as Bettas, some of the long finned tetras and Angelfish because they may nip at their fins. The Golden Barb is a good eater and if they arent eating it may be safe to assume that something is wrong with the water paramters in your tank. A flake food can form the main part of their diet, but supplement with other foods.

Goldfish, Fancy Goldfish

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Scientific Name : Carassius auratus Common Names : Calico Veiltail, Comet, Black Moor, Bubble eye, Lionhead, Ranchu, Oranda, Pearl Scale, Ryukin, Panda, Fantail, Shubunkin (calico), Tosakin, Orange Fantail, Black Fantail, Pompon, Celestial, Telescope, etc. There are many different varieties of this fish out there with more being developed. Care Level : Common varieties are easy and good for the freshwater aquarium fish beginner who is willing to perform the frequent water changes required in smaller setups. Some of the fancy varieties can be slightly more difficult to care for and need more stable water conditions and high quality foods. See the summary above. Size : Usually 3 to 5 inches (8 13 cm), but can get bigger pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 40F 80F (5C 27C) Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH, Lifespan : 10 30 years Origin / Habitat : China originally, then Japan, Asia and the rest of the world. Temperament / Behavior : Very peaceful Breeding Goldfish / Mating / Reproduction : Not very common in home aquariums but you can try. Make sure you are ready to deal with the babies before you start your breeding

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program. Give them a water temperature between 75F and 80F. Get them ready by feeding fish food high in protein and make sure that they have good water quality. When they are ready, they will lay their eggs on vegatation on the bottom of the tank. You will have to remove the adult fish to prevent them from eating the eggs which usually hatch within 7 days. Prepare your fry foods such as infusoria and brine shrimp and have it ready in time to feed the baby goldfish. Tank Size : Preferrably a 20 gallon or larger and 10 gallons for each additional goldfish if kept in groups. Compatible Tank Mates : Usually do better when kept with other goldfish. Other potential tank mates include white cloud mountian minnows and similar cold water species. Watch closely if you introduce different species to your tank though and be prepared to remove them if its not working out. Disease / Illness : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Unfortunately, they can be quite susceptible to swimbladder problems due to the various types or varieties that have been produced over the years. Ich or white spot disease and fungus problems are also frequently encountered. Food / Diet : Will gladly accept most fish foods, including flakes, live and freeze dried varieties. There are foods made specifically for goldfish. They are omnivorous, which means that they will eat foods of plant or animal origin. Tank Region : All over the tank Gender : Males may have small white spots called tubercles around their gill areas when ready to spawn. Females may be noticeably larger when swelling with eggs and the males may start to chase the females around the tank. Gallery Photos : Goldfish Photos Similar Species : Cyprinids Fish Lore Forum : Goldfish Posts

The Goldfish is a favorite fish for many. How many of us didnt keep one at one time or another? They are usually very hardy fish and can live in temperatures ranging from 40F 90F (4C 32C). It is important to note that Goldfish have an extremely long lifespan if cared for properly, so getting one can become a long term commitment. Many varieties are available with many different markings, fancy varieties and colors including gold, orange, white and black.

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The can sometimes come down with swim bladder disease and occasionally freshwater ich. Its very important to provide your fish with frequent water changes and quality, nutritious fish food. To increase your chance of success with goldfish keeping, try not to keep them in a tiny goldfish bowl. A tiny bowl will become polluted quickly and youll have to perform maintenance all of the time. Instead get them at least a 20 gallon tank with a good power filter or canister filter. Also, if you want to keep multiples, try for a minimum of 10 gallons per goldfish after the initial 20 gallons for better long term success with this fish. Care Summary

Allow adequate volumes of water, preferably 20 gallons for one and 10 gallons (38 liters) per additional goldfish. Perform frequent partial water changes and gravel vacuuming while avoiding wide water quality fluctuations such as temperature, pH, etc. Avoid keeping them in small goldfish bowls. Most bowls are simply inadequate to properly care for a fish. They only hold a gallon or two, need frequent cleaning, its hard to use a filter, and provide little to no swimming space for your fish. What a miserable existence this has to be. Give your fish a high quality and varied diet. Dont get the bulk size containers since fish food does lose nutritional value as it ages and as the top of the container is opened and closed every day. Think really stale potato chips. Its better to buy your fish food in smaller containers in this case. Learn about the aquarium nitrogen cycle if you dont know about it already. Dont over clean the filter! Rinse out the filter media in discarded aquarium water and re-use or only replace half the filter media at a time to avoid losing most of the beneficial bacteria needed to keep the water safe for your fish. Remember that this fish will grow in size and that they can live for quite a long time if cared for properly

Guppy, Fancy Guppy

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Scientific Name : Poecilia reticulata Common Names : Guppy, Fancy Tail Guppy, Millions Fish, Rainbow Fish Guppy Care Level : Easy, good for freshwater beginners when you have only one sex. This fish will breed easily in your tank if you plan on keeping males and females in the same tank. Size : 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 7 8 Temperature : 66F 84F (19C 29C) Water Hardness : 10 to 20 dH, Guppy Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : Central America Temperament / Behavior : This is a peaceful and hardy fish that is good for beginners. Guppy Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Livebearers and not very hard to breed. Parents will eat their young if not separated. Read the breeding guppies article for more information. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given their peaceful nature. Guppy Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Give them flakes, freeze dried and live foods. Vary their diet for optimum colors and health. Tank Region : Middle to top 82

Gender : Easy to determine. The male will have the larger, more colorful tails.
Discount Pond Supplies and Aquatic Livestock at That Fish Place

A great tropical fish for freshwater aquarium fish beginners, the Guppy is a very hardy tropical fish that is also a very prolific breeder. The male is easy to distinguish from the female because the male is usually more colorful with extremely colorful and large caudal fins (tails). The female is usually larger, thicker bodied, with less color and a smaller cuadal fin (tail). They are livebearers which means that the babies are free swimming at birth. At each birth, the female can have anywhere between 4 and 60 or more babies. If left in a community tank, the guppy fry will be quickly eaten if not secured in a breeding net or breeders box. Sadly, even the guppy parents will partake in the baby guppy feast. Please be responsible and have a plan for what to do with the fry. If youre not interested in breeding them they should do just fine when kept as all males or all females. Mix the sexes and you will most likely have babies. If knowing that the larger fish in the tank are having a feast (as they would in the wild) on the baby guppies bothers you then only keep all males or all females. You may sometimes see some aggression amongst the males but nothing too out of hand. Also, keep in mind that female guppies can be pregnant when you buy them from the store. Look for the gravid spot by the anal vent or a bulging in the belly area. They will accept most fish food including vitamin enriched flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods. Try to give them a variety of foods for optimum health and coloration. Feeding them live or frozen foods every once in a while should do wonders for their activity levels and general well being

Harlequin Rasbora
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Scientific Name : Trigonostigma heteromorpha Common Names : Red Rasbora, Harlequin Fish Care Level : Easy to Moderate, but only add to a tank that has already been through the aquarium nitrogen cycle. Size : 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 5.5 7.0 Temperature : 72F 80F (22C 27C) Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : Thailand

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Temperament / Behavior : A peaceful fish and best kept in a small school (shoal) of 6 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and are egg layers. Lays eggs underneath leaves. Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum (schooling fish) Compatible Tank Mates : They are a very peaceful little fish. Keep them in a small school and try not to keep them with larger fish that may be tempted to eat them or fish that may harass them. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they should accept flake food. Tank Region : Middle to top Gender : Females are usually larger.

The Harlequin Rasbora is a long time favorite for many hobbyists. It has the signature black triangle shape that starts at the dorsal fin and continues to the caudal fin. These Rasboras are fairly hardy but they should only be added to tanks that have completed the aquarium nitrogen cycle. This is a schooling fish and will be happy with 6 or more of its own kind. They make a great addition to heavily planted tanks and community tanks. The Harlequin Rasbora is sometimes confused with the Lambchop Rasbora (Trigonostigma espei) but the Lambchop Rasboras black region starting at the mid-section (dorsal fin) is not quite as large at the beginning of the black region and is shaped more like a lamb chop instead of the black triangular shape of the Harlequin. Its always a good idea to keep any new fish in a quarantine tank for a few weeks for monitoring before introducing them into your main tank. They will accept smaller fish food including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods

Head and Tail Light Tetra

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Scientific Name : Hemigrammus ocellifer Common Names : Beacon Fish Care Level : Easy Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 6 7.5

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Temperature : 72F 80F (22C 27C) Life span : 3 5 years or longer Origin / Habitat : South America, Amazon Basin Temperament / Behavior : This is a generally peaceful fish and does well when kept in a small school of 6 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and are egg layers. Requires acidic water conditions, low lighting levels and pre-spawn conditioning with live foods. Tank Size : 20 gallon minimum Compatible Tank Mates : Similar or smaller sized species that are comparable in temperament. Does well with other tetras. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : An omnivore provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they should accept flake food. Tank Region : Middle to Top Gender : Female is more robust than the male, may only be noticeable when ready to spawn.

The Head and Tail Light Tetra gets its common name from the way two small areas on the body seem to reflect light. One area is right behind the eye and the other area is at the base of the caudal fin. It may be hard to see this in tanks with lower lighting levels. Like other tetras, the Head and Tail Light Tetra likes to be in small schools of 6 or more. They are generally peaceful fish and do really well in live plant aquariums. Water should be kept slightly on the acidic side. Since they come from the slower moving waters in the Amazon Basin it may be a good idea to give them a slower current in the home aquarium as well. Breeding them in the home aquarium is possible but requires pre-conditioning with live and premium foods. You will need a separate breeding tank for the spawn and then to raise the fry in. Water must be on the soft and acidic side with low lighting levels. Parents should be removed after you see the eggs. Its always a good idea to keep any new fish in a quarantine tank for a few weeks for monitoring before introducing them into your main tank. They will accept most fish food including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods

Hillstream Loach Beaufortia kweichowensis

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Scientific Name : Beaufortia kweichowensis, Beaufortia leverreti kweichowensis Other Common Names : Chinese Butterfly Loach, Hong-Kong Pleco, Butterfly Hillstream Loach, Chinese Sucker Care Level : Moderate to difficult. Size : 2.5 3 inches (6 7.5 cm) pH : 7 8 Temperature : 68 75F (20 24C) Water Hardness : Medium to hard water conditions Origin / Habitat : Various areas of China Lifespan : 5 10 years Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful, wont harm anything in the tank, except for the brown diatoms. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Very difficult in the home aquarium. Tank Size : 55 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Mostly just coldwater fish that are able to tolerate a strong current in the tank. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Herbivore, but will accept meaty foods. Diatoms in the tank as well as algae wafers as a treat are good algae foods, but for the meaty foods, mysis shrimp and bloodworms are good foods. Tank Region : Sides and decorations Gender : It is very difficult to determine gender by external differences.

eaufortia kweichowensis

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These are some really neat little fish that are great at eating the small crustaceans and larvae (aufwuchs) that grows in algae. They can be very shy and wont really show themselves in the home aquarium too much. The first thing you should know about these amazing little fish is that they need lots of oxygen in the tank to survive. So they would need colder water, which can hold more oxygen then warm water, and would need a strong current to keep the oxygen near the sides and decorations. They are usually best suited for pond tanks or ponds in general since they require cold water, unlike most fish, which prefer it. If the tank gets too hot for the loach, they will die because their body cant seem to cope with the warmer temperatures, plus the warmer the water, the less oxygen in it. The tank they should be put in should be well established since they eat algae and a new tank doesnt seem to have any algae in it right away. The tank should be pH neutral to slightly alkaline for them to thrive as well as medium hard water with a temperature set at 68-75F (20-24C). They should be fed good quality algae wafers, mysis shrimp, or blood worms. If these fish are well cared for, and have the proper tank set up, they can live for 8-10 years and get to 3 at most. The most similar species are the other Beaufortia species but are similar to the other small algae eaters. There are different color varieties of this little fish, but the most common is one with spots and is also known as the spotted loach at some stores. They can also be pretty expensive depending on the store and the color variant that you get. These fish sometimes like to be in groups of 3 or more and will feel more comfortable in a small group

Inca Snail
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Scientific Name : Pomacea bridgesii Common Names : Gold Snail, Mystery Snail Care Level : Easy Size : 2 inches (5 cm) Life span : 1 2 years, maybe longer pH : 7 8 Temperature : 65F 80F (18C 27C) Origin / Habitat : Found in multiple places in South America Temperament / Behavior : Very peaceful little snail that should not be kept with more aggressive fish species, especially loaches. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They lay their eggs above the water line, so some open humid space should be left in the top part of the tank for them to access for attaching their eggs. If the eggs make it, in a couple of weeks you should have tiny snails. You can try to feed them crushed flake foods (separate them from the main tank) or let them graze on any growing algae already in the tank. Tank Size : 5 gallons (19 liters) Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid keeping them with known snail eaters, such as the Clown Loach and the Dojo Loach Snail Disease : Most issues are related to irregular shell growths due to improper or poor water quality. Missing tentacles are usually the result of a fish sampling them. The tentacles 87

may or may not grow back depending on the situation. If the snail is isolated from fish and kept in good water conditions it may grow back. Also consider adding a calcium supplement for their shell. This supplement can be found in the saltwater fish section at the fish store. Diet / Fish Food : An algae grazer. They may also sample your aquarium plants. Drop them in an algae wafer when the lights go off for the night. Tank Region : If you have a sand substrate, they may burrow in the sand. Most of the time they can be found attached to a structure or tank wall grazing on algae. Gender : Very difficult to determine any external differences between male and female. Females may grow to be slightly larger.

his snail, the Inca Snail, is part of the Apple Snail family in which there are over 100 different documented species. Unlike some other snails, this one stays relatively small and should leave your aquarium plants alone (for the most part). They do like to graze on the tank glass and any other structures in your aquarium looking for algae. If you have a sand tank bottom, they may submerge during the day and come out at night. They are fairly easy to care for but there are a few things to keep in mind when it comes to caring for this snail. They are herbivores, so they will need a lot of greens in their diet. If your tank doesnt have alot of algae, give them some algae wafers or attach a piece of lettuce to a rock. This should provide plenty of nourishment for your snails. Avoid keeping them with fish that are known snail eaters like the fish from the loach family. Goldfish have also been known to nibble at them ocassionally. Some fish will even nip at the snails tentacles, sometimes nipping off most of it. This doesnt seem to bother the snail and often times it will grow back. You may also need to add a calcium supplement to the tank water during weekly water changes to ensure the healthy development of their shell. Calcium can be depleted from the tank water over time and you will need to reintroduce it to the water using the calcium supplement.

Indian Glassfish
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Scientific Name: Parambassis ranga (originally referred to as Chanda ranga)Common Names: Glassfish, Glass Perch, Siamese Glassfish, Glass Fish Care Level: Moderate Size: 3 inches pH: 6.5 7.5 Temperature: 68 86 88

Water Hardness: 7 19 dGH Lifespan: Unsure Origin: Southern Asia from Pakistan to Malaysia Temperament/Behavior: Very energetic yet peaceful Breeding / Mating / Reproduction: To induce spawning they need slightly brackish water conditions with elevated temperatures. They may place eggs on plant leaves. Raising the fry is another story all together. Considered difficult. Tank Size: A few specimens could likely be kept in a species-only 10g. 20g and at least five glassfish is preferable. Compatible Tank Mates: Many. Would likely make excellent dither fish in groups of five or more. Would also make good target fish for species that get aggressive during mating. Glassfish are very fast swimmers, and also seem to be playful. Obviously, avoid predators large enough to eat the glassfish. Purely aggressive tankmates may not be the best choice, though glassfish may do well in a tank with semi-aggressive fish and plenty of hiding places. Fish Disease / Illness: Freshwater Fish Disease page includes symptoms, diagnosis and treatment info. Only painted glassfish seem to be particularly susceptible to any particular disease. Painting seems to encourage ich and fin rot immediately after paining, and makes the fish more likely to develop Lymphocystis, a viral infection that causes white cysts on the body and fins, throughout its life. Food / Diet: Frozen or fresh, mostly carnivorous diet. Generally do not eat dry food, according to several sources. That being said, I have fed my glassfish nothing but flakes and freeze-dried bloodworms, and they are always eager to eat. Tank Region: Supposedly mid to bottom. This may be a result of lethargy induced by brackish water. In purely freshwater tanks, they range across the entire depth of the aquarium. Gender: Males develop dark edge to their dorsal fin.

Obviously named for its translucent flesh, the glassfish is an interesting, slightly odd addition to the right aquarium. They are a schooling fish, and prefer to be kept in groups of five or more. They can be kept in smaller numbers, but they will be shy and will spend much of their time hiding. Even when kept in larger numbers, they tend to not be aggressive, though they can get to be very bold and energetic.Glassfish have a reputation for being difficult to keep alive, but this belief largely stems from the myth that they require brackish water to survive. In nature, these fish live in standing water such as bodies created from dammed mountain streams, not estuaries or other areas of brackish water. If they are kept in true freshwater, they seem to be fairly hardy fish, no more difficult to keep than many tetras. I am currently unaware of the difficulty of breeding glassfish in the aquarium. In the wild, they breed prolifically during the rainy season. If the tanks water temperature is raised to 85

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and the fish are fed a healthy diet of high protein food, they may be induced to breed in an aquarium. One particular note about glassfish is that, due to their transparent flesh, they are often injected with fluorescent dye. The result is a glassfish with fluorescent dots floating in its body. Most of these fish do not survive the dyeing process, and those that do are four times as likely to develop certain viral infections as undyed glassfish. For more information on this, check out the article on dyed fish

Iridescent Shark Catfish

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Scientific Name : Pangasius hypophthalmus Common Names : Iridescent Shark, Pangasius Catfish, Sutchi Catfish, Striped Catfish, Thailand Catfish Care Level : Moderate, needs a huge tank Size : 47 inches (120 cm) almost 4 feet in total length! pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 72F 79F (22C 26C) Water Hardness : 2 to 20 dH, Life span : 10 years, maybe much longer Origin / Habitat : Asia, Thailand Temperament / Behavior : Can be quite skittish, nervous and may not bother tank mates as juveniles. May eat smaller fish as it starts to reach adult size. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Not common in the home aquairum. Breeding has taken place at aquaculture farms and ponds. Tank Size : 300 gallon, preferrably much larger Compatible Tank Mates : Not many, similar sized species perhaps. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivorous, meaning that they should go after whatever you place in the tank. Give them a well balanced healthy diet consisting of both meaty and green foods. When they are smaller you should give them flakes and occasionally Algae Wafers that sink to the bottom of the tank. Catfish pellets can be used as they start to grow into adults. Tank Region : All over, mostly middle of the tank though. Gender : Females are larger or more full bodied than males.

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Gallery

Photos

Iridescent

Shark

Photos

The Iridescent Shark is also known as the Pangasius Catfish, the Sutchi Catfish and the Striped Catfish. There is also an albino iridescent shark. As you may have guessed from some of the other common names, this really isnt a shark, its a catfish. They originate from Asia and this is one of the species that is completely unsuitable for most hobbyists in our opinion. This fish can grow to be almost 4 feet in length (120 cm) and sometimes larger in the wild. They are very active swimmers as well. Who out there has the tank big enough to adequately keep this monster? They are quite skittish and can be easily frightened by sudden movements in front of the tank. Their nervous behaviors can lead to damage of themselves and for their tank mates. Keeping them in a school of 5 or more may help calm them down. Floating plants may help make them feel secure too. They have been known to jump from tanks, so a good tight fitting hood is a necessity for this fish.

They are omnivorous and should go after all fish food that you place in the aquarium. Some feel that the irridescent shark should be given more carnivorous type rations as juveniles and to mix more greens into their diet as the get bigger. Aim for a varied diet of flake foods, frozen foods, algae wafers and catfish pellets. Seriously, this is a tank buster. They are very active swimmers, may eat smaller fish and will outgrow most tanks. If youve already purchased this fish and it is in a smaller tank, please consider returning it to the petstore and getting something smaller.

Jack Dempsey Fish

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Scientific Name : Cichlasoma octofasciatum 91

Common Names : There is also an Electric Blue Jack Dempsey Jack Dempsey Care Level : Easy Size : Anywhere from 6 10 inches (15 25 cm) pH : 6 8.0 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Water Hardness : 5 to 15 dH Lifespan : 10 15 years or longer Origin / Habitat : Wild caught specimens originate from Central America, Guatemala, and Southern Mexico but hobbyists usually will be buying a farm raised fish. They are often found in slow moving rivers and canals in Central America. Temperament / Behavior : If given a large enough tank (55 gallon or larger) you may not see them being overly aggressive. If you cramp them into smaller tanks, like most fish, they may become more aggressive. Watch them closely. Breeding Jack Dempsey / Mating / Reproduction : If you have a mated pair, it is very easy to breed them. Give them a pot or cave structure and the female will drop the eggs with the male following after her fertilizing the eggs. Once the eggs hatch the parents will move them to a pit and defend them from tank mates. The parents can get very aggressive during this time and do a remarkable job of protecting their young fry. They will breed often and can produce hundreds of eggs per spawn. It is important to prepare for this and breed them responsibly. Tank Size : 55 gallon minimum for one Jack Dempsey, much larger for multiples. Compatible Tank Mates : Try to keep them with fish of similar temperament (other Central American Cichlids). Watch for aggressiveness and remove or use an aquarium divider if necessary. Jack Dempsey Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Usually very good eaters, they will take flakes, pellets, freeze dried (blood worms, brine shrimp) and especially live foods. Tank Region : Middle to bottom Gender : Females may be smaller and less colorful.

Named after the famous boxer from the 1920s, the Jack Dempsey fish is a fairly popular Central American Cichlid. The common name for this fish may make you think that this fish is a bruiser. But, given the right setup, it can be a good tank mate if kept with similar cichlids. They will get more aggressive the more cramped they feel, especially if you have a mated pair. They will hold their own against more aggressive tank mates. Provide them with a cave or other territory they can call their own and they should settle in quickly.

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The Jack Dempsey can be very hardy once acclimated to your tank and should live for a very long time if properly fed with a varied diet. Also, please keep in mind that they have no problem eating smaller tankmates. If you have a mated pair you will soon find out that they breed easily and are remarkable parents. They will need a sandy or smaller sized gravel bottom so that they can dig a pit to transfer the fry to once they hatch. The adults will then guard their fry against any and all comers! You may need to remove the other fish from the tank if they become too dangerous to the other fish in the tank. Or use an aquarium divider to prevent any aggression. The Jack Dempsey Fish can be a very cool fish to keep if you have the space and compatible tank mates. Its a very nice looking fish and they have great personalities

Kissing Gourami
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Scientific Name : Helostoma temmincki Common Names : Kissing Fish, Pink Kissing Gourami Care Level : Easy to Moderate Size : Up to 12 inches (30 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 72F 82F (22C 28C) Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH, Lifespan : 5 7 years Origin / Habitat : South East Asia Temperament / Behavior : They can be territorial at times and will fight with their mouths. Weve found that it is good to get a pair so that when they are feeling aggressive they will chase each other around instead of the other tropical fish. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Very difficult to breed because they require large tanks. Tank Size : 50 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Because of its potential adult size and because it can become territorial, use caution when selecting tank mates. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Will take many types of foods, including flakes, pellets, freeze dried and especially live foods. Tank Region : Middle and Top Gender : Can not be determined by external features.

The Kissing Gourami gets its name from the way it will kiss other gouramis and other fish in your tank. They are not kissing but they are in fact acting aggressive and having a showdown. When they do this, one is trying to establish dominance over the other.

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They can get quite large, often 10 12 inches in length. We do not recommend them for the beginner because of their potential adult size and because they can become very territorial in a community tank. They will often chase your other fish around the tank, especially after food has entered the aquarium. This behavior can get very annoying. They are not picky eaters and will go after flakes, pellets, frozen, freeze dried and live foods.

Kribensis Cichlid
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cientific Name : Pelvicachromis pulcher Common Names : Common Krib, Niger Cichlid, Purple Cichlid Care Level : Easy Size : Up to 4 inches (10 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 75F 79F (24C 26C) Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH Lifespan : 5 8 years or longer Origin / Habitat : Africa, Nigerian rivers Temperament / Behavior : This is a cichlid and cichlids are known as fish that can take care of themselves and their territory. They are not recommended for community tank setups and will even fight amongst themselves around breeding time. The females can sometimes be the more aggressive except when the male is guarding the nest. This fish would be best kept in a species only tank. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : This fish is considered easy to breed. They need clean water and they should be conditioned for a few weeks prior so they are in good condition for the upcoming event. They are wonderful parents and will protect their babies from any and all intruders. You will need a cave structure made out of rocks or an overturned flower pot or even some pvc pipe. The female initiates the spawning by dancing in front of the male. They will then select a cave like place where the female will deposit the eggs on the top part of the structure and the male will then fertilizing the eggs. The female will then guard the eggs and the males guards the mother and eggs. About 5 to 7 days later the eggs hatch and then in another 5 days or so the fry can swim. A good first food can be powdered flake food and baby brine shrimp. Some breeders are reporting that the fry sexes can be influenced by the pH of the water they are raised in. Alkaline water reportedly increases the number of males whereas acidic water increases the ratio of females. Tank Size : 30 gallons (114 liters) Compatible Tank Mates : Not recommended for community tanks although many hobbyists keep them with Tiger barbs and rosy barbs. Use caution and watch closely for signs of aggression if you keep them with other fish. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Get a good quality flake food and maybe some small cichlid pellets once they are large enough to eat them. They primarily eat insects, vegetation and small invertebrates in the wild. Vary their diet for good results. Tank Region : Bottom to middle parts of the tank. Gender : The females are usually more colorful and possibly smaller than males of the same age. The dorsal fins on the female may be rounded whereas they can appear pointy on the males. Gallery Photos : Kribensis Photos

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One of the most popular of the cichlids, the common Krib is considered a great beginner cichlid because it can tolerate a range of water conditions. They stay on the small side and are considerd a dwarf cichlid, reaching about 4 inches (10 cm) as adults. They are can be very colorful even though they may not look that way in the tank at the store. They should color up nicely with good care. They develop a red or even a purple looking region on the stomach area. Although youll hear about folks keeping them in community type tank setups we would urge you to use caution if you plan on doing this. They can become very territorial when in breeding mode and will not tolerate tank mates in their territory. Breeding them is fairly easy and if youre interested in breeding something besides livebearers you might be interested in getting a pair of kribensis. They are fantastic parents and will look after their young. See below for more information on breeding them. They need a varied diet with a good flake food or cichlid pellet serving as their primary diet. Supplement with live or frozen foods periodically. This becomes even more important if you want to breed them. Regarding disease, most are now being farm raised but that doesnt mean that they cant contract something while passing through the various holding tanks before reaching your tank. Use a quarantine tank for a few weeks before introducing into your aquarium.

Marble Hatchet Fish

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Scientific Name : Carnegiella strigata Common Names : Marbled Hatchet Fish Hatchetfish Care Level : Medium, need to slowly acclimate them to your tank. Will probably not make it through an aquarium nitrogen cycle. Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 5.5 7, prefer water slightly on the acidic side Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Water Hardness : 4 to 12 dH Lifespan : 2 5 years Origin / Habitat : South America, Amazon River Temperament / Behavior : This is a very peaceful tropical fish and best kept in schools of 6 or more. 95

Hatchetfish Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Hatchet Fish can be difficult to breed in the home aquarium. They are egglayers and the adult fish must be removed after dropping the eggs. Provide a lower pH (peat moss) and very soft water (3 to 5 dH). Feed the fry brine shrimp. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given their peaceful nature. Avoid keeping with tropical fish large enough to eat them or fish that may bother them, such as Tiger Barbs. Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease always a good idea to use a quarantine tank. Diet / Fish Food : Will go after flakes, live and freeze dried foods. They really seem to enjoy mosquito larvae which can sometimes be found in frozen cube form at your local pet store. Tank Region : Top of the tank, surface dweller. Gender : The female marble hatchet may have a thicker belly, otherwise can be difficult to determine. Fish Lore Forum : Marble Hatchetfish Posts

The marble hatchet fish is a truly unique looking fish that will always hang out at the top of your tank. In general, hatchet fish do not have the reputation as being one of the hardier species to keep in the home aquarium, but the marble hatchet fish seems to do better than the other hatchet fish. Make sure that you slowly acclimate Hatchet Fish to an established tank that has completed the aquarium nitrogen cycle. They really do well in a small school of 6 or more and with peaceful tank mates. Hatchet Fish are accomplished jumpers so you will also need a hood that has no escape points that will give them the opportunity to jump out. Keeping them with skittish fish may increase the chances of them deciding to jump out. Many of the hatchet fish are wild caught so you should plan on using a quarantine tank for a few weeks for monitoring before introducing them into your main tank. This Hatchetfish will accept all sorts of tropical fish food, including flakes, frozen and freeze dried foods and definitley live foods.

Mollies, Molly Fish

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Scientific Name : Poecilia sphenops

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Common Names : Black Molly, Lyretail, Sailfin, Liberty, Mollie, Pointed Mouth, Short Finned, Mexican, Golden, Piebald, Ghost Pearl, Gold Dust, Red Sunset, Dalmation, Ballon, etc. Care Level : Easy, very good for freshwater beginners if keeping a single sex. Keeping both sexes could cause problems since this fish is such a prolific breeder. Size : 2 to 4 inches (5 10 cm) depending on the species pH : 7.5 8.5 Temperature : 70F 82F (21C 28C) Water Hardness : 10 to 25 dH, Origin / Habitat : Central America Life Span : 3 5 years Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful Molly Fish Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : These are livebearers so it is fairly easy. Adding a little aquarium salt will help. Read the breeding guppies article for more information. That article talks about guppies and swordtails, but the process is very similar for the Molly. Tank Size : 20 gallon minium, prefer tall aquariums Compatible Tank Mates : Not many some feel they should only be kept with others of the same species. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Give them a varied diet consisting primarily of flake foods but supplement with live and freeze dried foods occasionaly. Tank Region : All over the tank. Gender : Males are more slender, females more round. Males also have a modified anal fin. Gallery Photos : Molly Fish Photos

The Molly is a tropical fish that prefers a little salt in their water. A teaspoon of aquarium salt per 5 gallons of water will go a long way in helping them. This is a very attractive tropical fish that comes in many different colors such as orange, green and black. Some of the more popular varieties include the sailfin, balloon and the dalmation. This is a livebearing tropical fish that can be fairly easy to breed. For many aquarists the biggest problem is not getting them to breed but stopping them from breeding. If left in a tank with other adult fish, the baby mollies will get eaten. Mollies will eat flakes, frozen, freeze dried and definitely live foods 97

Neon Tetra
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Scientific Name : Paracheirodon innesi Common Names : Neon Fish Care Level : Moderate its a good idea to stay on top of your water changes to prevent the nitrate levels from accumulating. Size : Up to 1.5 inches (4 cm) pH : 5 7.5 Temperature : 69F 79F (21C 26C) Water Hardness : 1 to 10 dH Lifespan : 5 8 years Origin / Habitat : South America Temperament / Behavior : Neon Tetras are peaceful tropical fish and best kept in schools of 6 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They are difficult to breed in the home aquarium. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given their peaceful nature. Avoid keeping with tropical fish large enough to eat them. Neon Tetra Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Will go after flakes, live and freeze dried foods. Tank Region : Mostly middle to bottom. Gender : The male is usually smaller than a female of the same age. Gallery Photos : Neon Tetra Photos

The Neon Tetra is one of the most attractive of all the readily available tropical fishes. They have been getting a bad reputation in recent years for the difficulty in keeping them alive in the home aquarium. This bad reputation could be attributed to the increasing public demand and the methods by which breeders are meeting those demands by the inbreeding of this once hardy tropical fish. Try to add at least 6 or more neons to your mature, fully cycled aquarium in order to increase your chances of success. Spending a little more time during the acclimation process may help as well. If you do the floating bag method, at least try to add small amounts of the tank water

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into the bag every 10 minutes so that they can slowly adjust to pH as well as temperature. Float them and add the small amounts of tank water for an hour. Keep up with those water changes to prevent the nitrate levels from getting too high! These tetras, like many, will accept tropical fish flakes, frozen and freeze dried foods.

Odessa Barb
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Scientific Name : Puntius sp. Common Names : Scarlet Barb, Ticto Barb Care Level : Easy Size : 3 inches (8 cm) pH : 6 7 Temperature : 70F 78F (21C 26C) Water Hardness : 2 to 10 dH Origin / Habitat : Indonesia, Sumatra Lifespan : 3 years or more Temperament / Behavior : The Odessa Barb can be aggressive with other Odessas in the same tank and it is usually the males bickering over a dominance position within the school. They may also nip at slower moving fish with larger fins, such as Angelfish. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : An egg scatterer, it can be difficult if not impossible to breed in a community aquarium. A bare bottom breeding tank will increase your chance of success as well as a slightly lower pH. Remove the adults after they have dropped and fertilized the eggs. Tank Size : 10 gallon for one youll need a larger tank when keeping multiples. Compatible Tank Mates : Slow swimming fish and fish with larger fins may make an attractive nipping target for this Barb. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, will accept flake, freeze-dried and live foods. Vary their diet but try to give them a good quality flake food as the main source of their nutrition. Tank Region : This is a relatively fast swimming fish that will roam all over, but mostly stays in the middle region of the tank. Gender : The female is usually bigger and the males should develop more coloration as they mature. Gallery Photos : Odessa Barb Photos

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For a freshwater fish, the Odessa Barb can rival the colors of most saltwater species. They are considered hardy and will tolerate a wide range of water parameters but will thrive in well planted tanks that are slightly on the acidic side of the pH range. They may be difficult to find at your local fish store, but ask your store to order some for you. You may be required to leave a small deposit but it will be well worth getting a school of these beauties. The male Odessas are usually the colorful ones while the females become plumper when developing eggs. If you want to try your hand at breeding them you will need a bare bottom tank and you will have to remove the adults after they have fertilized the eggs. It should take 3 to 5 days for the eggs to hatch. Be ready to feed them infusoria for the first few weeks and then baby brine shrimp. Frequent partial water changes (daily) are required during the grow out stages as well. They are not picky eaters and they should eat most fish food that hits the tank water. Give them some live or frozen fish food ocassionally and they will reward you with great coloration and lots of activity. If you get a school of these barbs, you might see some territorial aggression or tests of dominance among the males. These little battles shouldnt last long and they really should not be cause for concern. If it gets out of hand though, be prepared to separate the weaker fish. They should play nicely with the other fish in the tank but watch for fin nipping. Fin nipping may be dimished if you keep a school of Odessa Barbs in your tank

Oscar Fish
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Scientific Name : Astronotus ocellatus Common Names : Albino Oscar, Tiger and Red Oscar, Marbled Cichlid Care Level : Easy, good for freshwater beginners with a large enough tank and those with an adequate aquarium filter and those willing to perform frequent partial water changes. Size : 13 inches (33 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 72F 80F (22C 27C) Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH Origin / Habitat : Amazon Lifespan : 10 13 years Temperament / Behavior : They can be aggressive if not given a large enough aquarium.

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Breeding Oscar Fish / Mating / Reproduction : They reach sexual maturity at 4 inches and will form life long pairs. Keep the water temperature around 82F (28C) and provide a spot for them to place the eggs. A large rock would work well. Tank Size : 55 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Not many Bala Shark, Silver Dollar, Pleco and Jack Dempsey fish are some acceptable tank mates. However, dont put in any fish that are small enough to fit in the mouth of this fish. Oscar Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, will eat flakes, pellets, freeze dried and live foods. Give them a varied diet with lots of protein. Tank Region : All over Gender : Can be difficult to determine. The female is usually smaller and less colorful than a male of the same age.

Also known as the Red, Albino and Tiger Oscar. Originating in the waters of the Amazon, the Oscar fish is another extremely popular tropical fish. Their popularity stems from their personality, which has been compared to that of a puppy. Many keepers experience begging around meal times or the seemingly playful greetings they receive from their fish when they get home. There are a few color varieties including albino, olive-green, brown and dark gray. They can get quite large, usually 12-14 inches and should be kept in a 55 gallon or larger aquarium. The Oscar is also known for being one of the more messy tropical fish to keep. Try to get the best filtration system possible for them and be prepared to perform frequent water changes. They are known to rearrange their environment from time to time and to bash in to filter uptake tubes and heaters. If you are wanting to keep live plants in an aquarium you may not want to get an Oscar because they love to dig up plants. They are also very good jumpers, so a heavy hood is a necessity. They will eat most flakes, pellets, frozen, freeze dried and live foods including any other fish they share a tank with that are small enough to fit in their mouths

Otocinclus Catfish
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Scientific Name : Otocinclus vestitus Common Names : Otto, Oto Cat, Dwarf Sucking Catfish, Midget Sucker Fish Otocinclus Care Level : Easy but needs to be slowly acclimated and you must keep them in optimum water conditions by performing frequent partial water changes. Only add them to tanks that have completed the aquarium nitrogen cycle.

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Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 70F 78F (21C 26C) Water Hardness : 6 to 15 dH Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : South America Temperament / Behavior : This is a very peaceful catfish and does well when kept in small schools. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They can be difficult to breed in the home aquarium. They will lay eggs on plant leaves. Tank Size : 20 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given their peaceful nature. Avoid keeping with fish large enough to eat them and fish that are overly aggressive. Otocinclus Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Quarantine all new fish before adding them to your aquarium! Diet / Fish Food : Herbivores, you may need to supplement their diet with algae wafers. Tank Region : Mostly middle to top. Gender : The male is usually smaller than a female of the same age. Gallery Photos : Otocinclus Catfish Photos

The Otocinclus is a great addition to a peaceful planted tank and a small school of them can form a great algae cleanup crew. They like to hang out under and on plant leaves as well as sucking on the tank glass. However, Otocinclus Catfish can be a little reclusive at times and providing places to hide will help make them feel secure. Because they can be quite shy its a good idea to avoid keeping them with overly aggressive tank mates or other fish large enough to eat them. Otto cats are primarily herbivores so you will need to supplement the Otocinclus diet with algae wafers if you think they may not be getting enough algae to eat. Some hobbyists have difficulty in keeping them and it may stem from the tank not having enough algae present for grazing, improper acclimation, lack of hiding places, high nitrates and low oxygen levels. Stay on top of your water changes to prevent nitrates from getting out of hand and provide plenty of surface agitation (air stones or powerheads) for gas exchange. For even better results, add your new Otocinclus to an established tank that has already completed the aquarium nitrogen cycle.

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Ideally, you should quarantine your Otocinclus before introducing them to your main tank so that you can monitor them for disease and also provide them with optimal water conditions and no competition from other tank mates for fish food. They may be stressed from transport when you buy them from your pet shop and quarantining them will help settle them down.

Pearl Gourami
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Scientific Name : Trichogaster leeri Common Name : Lace Gourami, Diamond Gourami, Leeri Gourami, Platinum Gourami, Mosaic Gourami Care Level : Easy and hardy, good for freshwater beginners Size : 5 inches (13 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 77F 82F (25C 28C) Water Hardness : 5 to 15 dH, Life span : 3 4 years and longer Origin / Habitat : Asia, Thailand, Indonesia Temperament / Behavior : Mostly peaceful but they may scrap with other gouramis. Males seem to be more aggressive than females. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : This fish is a bubble nest builder. Increase the tank water to around 82F (28C), lower the water level a little and condition them with good foods (live foods and/or brine shrimp) for a couple of weeks. The male will build a bubble nest and then he will try to get the female to come over to his nest where he will wrap himself around her and she will release the fertilized eggs into the nest. He will then guard the nest. The eggs should hatch within a day or two and the fry should be swimming about 5 days later. Make sure you have fry foods ready liquid fry food works well. You will want to move them to a grow out tank where you can perform frequent (daily) partial water changes. Tank Size : 10 gallon minimum if kept singly. Compatible Tank Mates : They seem to be peaceful most of the time, except for when the male pearls go after each other. Watch for signs of aggression and remove or separate as needed. They may also bicker with other gouramis. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : This is not a picky fish. They will eat flakes just as quickly as theyll eat live and frozen foods. Tank Region : Middle to top Gender : Relatively easy to determine. The male will develop a red breast and the males dorsal fin is longer. The red breast on the males should become even more visible as it nears spawning mode.

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This gourami has many different common names such as the Pearl Gourami, the Lace Gourami, the Leeri Gourami, etc. They are all referring to the same fish Trichogaster leeri. For a gourami, it is considered peaceful and will share a tank with most community fish types. However, male pearls may fight with each other, especially if there are females in the tank and its spawning time. Be ready to use a tank divider or take the other males back to the store and only keep one male with the females in your tank. Even after doing this, the male may still harass the other female pearl gouramis. Take the appropriate action if this happens. The originate from swampy areas in Asia where the water can be on the acidic side of the pH scale. While it would be good to keep them in similar conditions you should know that they will tolerate a wide range of water parameters. They are a very nice looking fish with tons of tiny white pearl shapes dotting its body. There is a horizontal black bar that runs the length of the body. Males are easy to distinguish from females because they will develop a red breast and their dorsal fins will be longer. Feeding them should pose no problems since they will eat nearly every sort of fish food you put in the tank. Give them a quality flake food and supplement with live or frozen freshwater fish cubes. Feeding live foods becomes even more important if youre planning on breeding this beauty. If youve successfully bred livebearers you should find that this fish is not that much harder to breed assuming that you can acquire a male and female. Females seem to not be as commonly available at the fish store as the males.

Platy, Platies
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Scientific Name : Xiphophorus maculatus Common Names : Many and usually based on the color patterns Southern Platy, Red Wagtail Platies, Mickey Mouse, Red Tuxedo, Moon Fish, Topsail Rainbow, Sunset, Golden, Calico, Salt and Pepper, Coral Red, Black, Blue, the list goes on and on and on and on. Care Level : Easy, good first fish for freshwater fish beginners Size : 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 7 8 Temperature : 65F 78F (18C 26C) Water Hardness : 10 to 25 dH Origin / Habitat : Central America Lifespan : 2 3 years

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Temperament / Behavior : This is a good tropical fish for the beginner. They are a very peaceful tropical fish. Also, it can be a good idea to have two females for every one male. Doing this will prevent the male from harassing a single female. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They are livebearers which means that the babies can swim immediately after birth. Usually, not much effort is required to get them to breed. If you have a male and a female, chances are they will breed. The parents must be separated from the young after birth. For more information on breeding them, please read the breeding livebearers article. That article talks about guppies and swordtails but the process is similar with Platies. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : They make an excellent fish for a community tank given their peaceful nature. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Give them a varied diet consisting of flakes, live and freeze dried foods for optimum health. Tank Region : All over the aquarium Gender : The female is usually bigger than a male of the same age. Males also have a modified anal fin called a gonopodium. Gallery Photos : Platy Photos

Originating in Central America and a very popular tropical fish, the Platy is very easy to take care of and well suited for the freshwater fish beginner. The Platy fish comes in many different color varieties including the salt and pepper platies, the red wag tail and the tuxedo platy. There is even a variety called the Mickey Mouse. They can be a very active tropical fish if given good water conditions. The female Platy is usually larger than the males of the same age. Females can reach a size of up to 2.5 inches whereas the males usually get to be about 1.5 inches. Breeding them is fairly easy since they are livebearers. Platies will accept most fish foods including flakes, frozen, live and freeze dried foods. Try to vary their diet for optimum health and coloration.

Plecostomus, Pleco
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Scientific Name : Hypostomus plecostomus Common Names : Suckerfish, Suckermouth Catfish Care Level : Easy to moderate Size : Up to 18 inches (46 cm) 105

pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 73F 82F (23C 28C) Water Hardness : 5 to 19 dH, Lifespan : 10 15 years Origin / Habitat : South America Temperament / Behavior : Generally peaceful, but can be aggressive toward others of the same species. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : It can be very difficult to breed them in a home aquarium. Tank Size : Depends on the type, but a 55 gallon minimum for the common pleco given its large adult size. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given the mostly peaceful nature of this fish. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Herbivore, try to supplement their diet with algae wafers Tank Region : Bottom and the sides of the glass. Gender : There are no visible differences between the male and female. Gallery Photos : Pleco Photos

It is usually referred to as Pleco because of the superstition that if you spell it fully or correctly your fish will soon die. The common plecostomus is well known as an algae eater and can often be found stuck to the side of your aquarium. Many will get very large with the common variety getting to be almost 18 inches (46 cm) and will outgrow most aquariums under 55 gallons. As they get older they may eat algae less often and you will need to supplement their diet with algae wafers that sink to the bottom of your tank. Shrimp pellets that drop to the bottom of the tank are another favorite. Drop in the algae wafers or shrimp pellets after you turn off the lights for the day to prevent the other fish in the tank from getting the food before your pleco can get to it. There are varieties that dont get as large, such as the Bristlenose Plecostomus which reaches about 5 inches in size as adults.

Pristella Tetra Pristella maxillaris

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Scientific Name : Pristella maxillaris 106

Common Names : X-Ray Tetra, Albino Pristella Care Level : Easy, good for the freshwater fish beginner Size : 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 75F 82F (24C 28C) Lifespan : 5 years or longer Origin / Habitat : Amazon River, South America Temperament / Behavior : This is a schooling fish that is usually very peaceful. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity and are egg layers. They will scatter eggs in plants and they should hatch in 24 hours. Tank Size : 10 gallon minimum (schooling fish) Compatible Tank Mates : They are generally peaceful but may be skittish around larger tank mates. Best kept in a small school of 6 or more. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease, be smart and use a Quarantine Tank Diet / Fish Food : An omnivore provide a varied diet with live food, frozen food and they should accept flake food. They will eat live plants too. Tank Region : Middle to bottom Gender : Can be difficult to determine, female may be more full bodied

The Pristella Tetra can be a really good fish for the freshwater fish beginner. They are fairly hardy and should do well in a somewhat broader range of water parameters than other tetras. The Pristella tetra is very peaceful when kept in small schools of 6 or more. However, they may become skittish if kept with larger tank mates. Physically, these tetras get to be about 2 inches (5 cm) and they are sometimes called the XRay tetra because of its almost transparent body. Look for the signature black stripe across the middle of the dorsal fin. There is an albino Pristella (golden x-ray tetra) that will sometimes be available, but it is not as common as the regular Pristellas. Its always a good idea to keep any new fish in a quarantine tank for a few weeks for monitoring before introducing them into your main tank. This tetra is a decent eater and will accept smaller fish food including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods

Queen Arabesque Pleco

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Temperature: 73-82F (23-28C) Water Hardness: Soft-medium hard Origin / Habitat: Brazil, Para, Rio Tapajos Lifespan: Temperament / Behavior: Peaceful, but dont keep them with aggressive fish like large cichlids. Breeding: There are accounts of these fish breeding in captivity. But it can be difficult in the aquarium. See the article above for more details. Gender: Females are shorter and broader with very small odontodes, while males are longer, brighter and have long odontodes. Fish Food: This fish doesnt fit the pleco standards of eating algae. This pleco is a carnivore. It will eat any meaty foods like blood worms, brine shrimp, and gammarus. Tank size: Minimum of 20 gallons.

This beautiful little catfish comes from South America in the rivers Brazil, Para and Rio Tapajos. Because of their beauty, the Queen Arabesque Pleco is the fish keepers substitute to the much sought after zebra pleco, although they dont look very much like them. The L260s have a black and white squiggly pattern over their entire body. They also have small spots scatted here and there over the body as well as on the dorsal fin. The younger fish tend to have their stripes more spaced out and as they age, the stripes become more, creating a more fine striped appearance. Another name they are known by, although less common, is Scribble pleco. L260s prefer a fast current. Every so often you may see them in the current of the filter output. A power head or two (depending on the tank size) can easily see to that requirement, however they are able to survive without. A pH 6.4 to 7.5, medium to medium-hard water and a temperature of 73 to 82F (23-28C) is happily tolerated. The minimum tank size recommended is 20 gallons (75.5L). They are not all that fussy in terms of care. Maintaining correct care in general tank maintenance will go a long way in keeping them healthy and happy. Driftwood is needed for them to rasp on and caves should made for them to go to when in need of refuge or for spawning. They grow up to anything between 3.5 to 4 inches in length. Queen arabesque plecos are generally peaceful catfish and should not be kept with the very aggressive bottom dwellers as it may result in them getting left out at feeding time. Aggressive fish such as large cichlids, too are not recommended as tank mates. However males can be territorial in terms of guarding his territory, i.e. his cave, especially against other males of the same species. These catfish are carnivores and will not live on the food generally fed to most of the other more commonly found catfish, of which, most are herbivores or omnivores. L260s have tiny teeth just behind their lips which they use to rasp off tiny critters they may find, generally on driftwood. They have teeth inside their mouth as well, and will eat most meaty foods like blood worms, brine shrimp, gammarus and occasionally small pieces of shrimp and mussels.

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Some may even eat cichlid pellets as well as other sinking foods normally given to carnivorous bottom dwellers. An acclimatized Queen Arabesque Pleco may also snack on veggies such as cucumber, lettuce and zucchini. Males are longer in length than females and have long odontodes around the gills as well as being much more brighter in color than the females. The females tend to have a more shorter and broader body and their odontodes are absolutely small. Another factor though not very trustworthy, is that the male has a slight coloration of black and white on the belly while the females is totally white. Breeding them in the home aquarium is possible but it is not easily achieved. More than one cave should be produced in an aquarium per pair and a powerhead placed in such a manner that a current runs water along the cave entrances. The water should be heavily oxygenated with a temperature of 82-86F (27-30C) and a pH 7.5 8. Two females to every male is recommended and slightly larger water changes are recommended to trigger spawning. Spawning takes place in the cave and the eggs may take plus minus a week to hatch. The male will then guard the fry. The fry can be fed newly hatched brine shrimp and some crushed shrimp pellets. They are slow growers

Rainbow Shark
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Scientific Name : Epalzeorhynchos frenatus Common Names : Red Fin Shark, Red Shark, Ruby Shark, Albino Rainbow Shark Care Level : Easy Size : 6 inches (15 cm) pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Lifespan : 5 8 years. Origin / Habitat : Thailand, Indonesia Temperament / Behavior : This fish can become aggressive with other, smaller fish in your tank that invade its territory. They will fight with the Red Tail Shark. Provide plenty of hiding places (caves, rocks and plants) Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Because they will fight with other rainbows, breeding them in the home aquarium is rare. Tank Size : 55 gallon (208 liters) Compatible Tank Mates : Because of their temperament it is a good idea to house them with similar sized fish. Do not keep with other Rainbow sharks and Red Tail Sharks Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : An herbivore provide a varied diet with algae wafers, pellet food and frozen food. Tank Region : Mostly bottom to middle Gender : On males, the anal fin is outlined in black

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This freshwater cyprinid originates in Thailand and may not be a good choice for a community tank. They like to stake out their own territory in the tank. This territory can be in the form of small caves, rocks and even plants. They will become aggressive with smaller fish that invade this territory. Only keep one Rainbow Shark in your tank because they will not tolerate another Rainbow or Red Tail Sharks in the same tank. They may exist together for awhile, but one will end up chasing the other relentlessly until the other succumbs. The Rainbow Shark will eat most fish food including flakes, pellets and frozen foods. They will eat algae wafers as well. Breeding this freshwater shark is rare in the home aquarium. This is most likely because of their intolerance of each other in the small confines of the home aquarium. You will need a good tight fitting hood with no escape points because this fish has been known to jump out of the tank.

Red Belly Pacu Fish

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Scientific Name : Piaractus brachypomum Common Names : Red Pacu Red Pacu Care Level : Moderate Difficult (because of adult size) and they need an excellent aquarium filter. Size : 12 24 inches (30 61 cm) pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Lifespan : 5 15 years or longer. Origin / Habitat : South America, Amazon River Temperament / Behavior : Generally peaceful and will take care of themselves against more aggressive tank mates. They may also eat smaller fish species if kept in the same tank. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Egglayer, not common in home aquariums. Tank Size : 250 gallon (946 liters) minimum but preferrably much larger tanks and ponds. This fish is best left in the wild or in public aquarium displays. Compatible Tank Mates : Because of their huge adult size there are very few common aquarium species recommended. You would need to keep them with large fish making the aquarium size requirements difficult to attain in the home. One that may

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potentially be kept with them is the Common Pleco but you would need at minimum a 350 gallon tank to provide both of them with adequate water volume as adults. Arowanas are sometimes kept in the same tank as well (must be a huge tank). Sometimes sold mistakenly as the Red Belly Piranha. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : An herbivore provide a varied diet with pellet food and frozen food. Tank Region : Mostly middle Gender : Difficult to determine. May only be possible to determine gender differences in mature adults. Males may have more red on the belly. Gallery Photos : Pacu Photos

The Red Belly Pacu fish looks very similar and is sometimes sold to customers as the Red Belly Piranha. However, they only look like piranha as juveniles. The red belly pacu will grow rather quickly and may reach 12 24 inches (30 61 cm) if properly taken care of. Given their potential adult size you will need an enormous tank to keep one at home, at least 250 gallons (940 liters). You will also need an extremely efficient aquarium filter to filter the tank water. The Red Pacu will accept flake foods in the home aquarium but will need to be given pellets as they grow in size. Its probably best to keep them in tanks without live plants because they may eat your live plants. Use caution when selecting tank mates for this fish. Even though they are herbivores, they may go after smaller fish in their tank. They can potentially be kept with arowanas and plecos. The Red Bellied Pacu one of those fish that is best left to the advanced freshwater aquarist with a very large tank

Red Devil Cichlid

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Scientific Name : Amphilophus labiatus Common Names : Red Devil Cichlid Care Level : Easy to Moderate Size : 10 12 inches (25 30 cm), possibly larger pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Lifespan : 10 years or longer 111

Origin / Habitat : Central America, in Lake Nicaragua and Lake Managua Temperament / Behavior : Extremely aggressive cichlid that will not tolerate others in their tank. They will rearrange the tank to their liking and uproot plants. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeds on flat rocks with the male and female both guarding the eggs. They should move the fry, once hatched (after 3 or 4 days), to a pit that they defend until the fry is free swimming. They should be free swimming between 5 and 7 days. Tank Size : 55 gallon minimum for one Red Devil, much larger for multiples. Compatible Tank Mates : Not many! They may or may not do ok with other, larger cichlids. Youll have best results keeping this fish by itself. You may be able to keep it with an opposite sexed red devils but watch for aggression. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Should accept most foods, including a good, balanced Cichlid Pellet Food , flakes and live foods. They will eat smaller fish. Tank Region : All over the fish tank. Gender : Females may be smaller and males may get a larger nuchal hump on the head. A nuchal hump is more common in male cichlids. Gallery Photos : Red Devil Cichlid Photos Similar Species : Cichlids

The Red Devil Cichlid comes from Central America, namely Lake Nicaragua. This is perhaps one of the most appropriate common names of all fishes. It is called the Red Devil Cichlid because of its aggressive behavior. If youre looking for a fish that will terrorize nearly any fish you put in the tank, then this fish is for you! There are many color varieties out there including red, white and variations having both colors. Maybe this is the result of cross breeding with other cichlids? This is one fish that will redecorate the tank to its liking. They love to dig and uproot plants, so youll most likely end up taking the plants (plastic or real) out of the tank to prevent this. After theyre done assaulting the other fish in the tank they like to retire to a peaceful cave they can call their own. All in a days work, I guess. Seriously, this is one mean SOB that you dont want to keep with other smaller or less aggressive fish. Keep them singly or you may be able to keep them as a mated pair in a larger tank. They will eat most everything you give them. This includes flakes, cichlid pellets, frozen foods, worms, crickets, and live feeder fish. Use caution when feeding feeder goldfish because of the disease element. Try to provide a balanced diet for them and not too much of the same foods all the time. Males should be larger than females of the same age and may develop a nuchal hump on the head. They can be relatively easy to breed, provided that they get along. They will spawn on a flat rock and should be good parents, defending the fry until they are free swimming

Red Eye Tetra

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Scientific Name : Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae Common Names : Yellowhead Characin, Yellowhead Tetra, Yellow-banded moenkhausia Care Level : Easy Size : 3 inches (7 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : South America, Brazil, River Basin areas Temperament / Behavior : A very peaceful tetra that needs to be in a school of 5 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They will scatter their eggs on the substrate. The adults may eat the eggs. Tank Size : 30 gallons (114 liters) this is a schooling fish and should be kept in groups of 5 or more. Compatible Tank Mates : You dont want to keep them with more boisterous or overly aggressive tank mates. They may nip fins if kept solitary. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : The Red Eye Tetra should eat most common aquarium foods. Flakes, frozen, freeze dried and may nibble at some aquarium plants. Tank Region : All over, but seems to congregate near protected areas towards the bottom of the tank most of the time. Gender : May be able to tell a difference in males and females when the female gets fatter or fuller.

The Red Eye Tetra is a great little tetra that needs to be kept in a school of 5 or more. They make ideal members of a planted, peaceful community tank and should bring a decent amount of activity to your aquarium. The top of the eye socket is red, hence the name. The first half of the caudal fin (tail fin) is black and the main part of the body is silver. This fish is very peaceful if kept in groups, but may get a little fin nippy if kept as a single. Other tetras may pick on them at times, so keep an eye on them. They do make a great freshwater aquarium beginner fish because they can be relatively hardy and their peaceful nature. Breeding them can be challenging if not kept in a separate, bare bottom breeding tank. They are egg scatterers and will abandon the eggs and even eat them if not separated.

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The Red Eye Tetra should accept nearly all aquarium foods including flakes, frozen and freeze dried fish food. Give them a variety of vitamin enriched foods for best results

Red Tail Shark

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Scientific Name : Epalzeorhynchus bicolor Common Names : Red Tailed Shark, Red Tail Black Shark, Red Tailed Labeo, Fire Tail, Labeo bicolor Care Level : Easy, good for freshwater beginners Size : Up to 6 inches (15 cm) pH : 6.5 7.5 Temperature : 73F 79F (23C 26C) Water Hardness : 10 to 16 dH, Lifespan : 5 8 years Origin / Habitat : Thailand Temperament / Behavior : These fish can be hostile and are not recommended for community fish tanks with smaller tropical fish. They seem to behave when kept with larger fish. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Very difficult to breed in the home fish tank. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Larger tropical fish given their aggressive nature but none large enough to eat them. It is not recommended to keep them with the Rainbow Shark unless your tank is sufficiently larger. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore and primarily a scavenger. They will go after most of what you put in the tank including flakes, live and freeze dried foods. Tank Region : Middle and bottom Gender : Hard to determine, but the female may have a grayer stomach whereas the males are solid black. Gallery Photos : Red Tail Shark Photos

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The Red Tailed Shark has a black body with a red tail (hence the name). It is best to keep one of this species in your tank because they will become very aggressive and territorial towards each other. Avoid the temptation to keep them with a Rainbow Shark or other Red Tailed Sharks. Many hobbyists mistakenly add multiples to a small tank only to find out that one of them will soon become the dominant shark. The dominant one will chase and pester the others relentlessly. Any time the submissive sharks try to get to food the dominant one will chase it away. They really can become quite obnoxious which is why we recommend keeping only one unless you have a much larger tank. Provide them with many hiding places to help make them feel secure and have a tight fitting hood because they are also known to be excellent jumpers. They love to scavenge all over the tank looking for food and will accept most fish foods including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods

Rosy Barb
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Scientific Name : Barbus conchonius Common Names : Rosie Barb, Red Barb Care Level : Easy, good for freshwater beginners Size : 4 inches (10 cm) pH : 6 7 Temperature : 65F 78F (18C 26C) Water Hardness : 5 to 15 dH Origin / Habitat : India Lifespan : 3 4 years Temperament / Behavior : These fish are generally peaceful but if you dont have a small school of them (usually 5 or more) they can become fin nippers. Getting only of couple of them will surely bring out their fin nipping behavior. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeding them can be fairly easy. They are egglayers and they will eat the eggs. Provide plenty of broad leaf plants for them to scatter thier eggs on. Separate the adults from the eggs if you plan on raising the fry. Feed the fry baby brine shrimp. Tank Size : 20 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid keeping them with tropical fish that are long-finned and slow moving. They will most likely not do well with the Rosie Barb. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, does well on a varied diet of flake, live and freeze dried fish food. Tank Region : All over the tank Gender : Like many tropical fish, the male is usually more colorful and has more red coloration. The female will most likely not have the red colors or if they do, just a slight amount of red and will mostly have yellow, olive or gold coloration.

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Also known in certain circles as the Red Barb, the Rosy Barb is a popular freshwater tropical fish that will bring a lot of activity to your tank. They are generally peaceful but like many barbs, can become fin nippers if they are not placed in a small school of 5 or more. They are also very aggressive eaters and will accept flake fish food with gusto. Many have reported breeding success by using broad leaved plants on which the female will lay its eggs. Adults will eat the eggs so you must separate them if you want to raise the fry. The Rosy Barb will accept nearly all foods including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods

Rosy Red Minnow Pimephales promelas

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Scientific Name : Pimephales promelas Common Names : Rosy Red Minnow, Fathead minnow, Tuffies, Rosies, Red Top Minnows, Blackhead Minnow, Bait Fish, Feeder Fish Care Level : Easy and very hardy fish, good for beginners. Size : 2 3 inches (8 cm) pH : 7.0 to 8.0 Temperature : 50 78 F Lifespan : 1 to 3 years, possibly longer Origin / Habitat : Mostly all over North America with introduced species in other parts of the world with sometimes adverse consequences. Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful. Does great in a community tank of cool water fish. Be wary when housing with larger fish, as the rosy reds will be eaten. Males will become protective over egg site, so be careful if breeding in a community aquarium. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Egg layer. Very easy to breed in home aquaria. Although they mature at around 6 months of age, they normally do not breed until they are 1 -2 yrs old. Females will lay eggs in the spot the male has found, usually a flat/hard surface of a log, rock, or leaves. Eggs will hatch in roughly 5 days, depending on temperature. Males maintain the nest and eggs, fanning and protecting them. The males will also protect gravid females. After fry become free swimming (2-3 days), they can be fed infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp.

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Tank Size : minimum of 10 gallons. This is a social species that must be kept in a group of at least 3. These fish are very popular in outdoor ponds, and will thrive in this environment. Compatible Tank Mates : Any cool water species that are not a threat to eat them. White cloud Minnows, hillstream loaches, dojo loaches, goldfish. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fiash Disease Often have internal parasites from cramped conditions in fish stores. Diet / Fish Food : Omnivorous. Will eat goldfish flakes and pellets. Also enjoys veggie greens and live food such as insect larvae. Tank Region : Middle to bottom of the aquarium Gender : Males are larger with rounder fins.

Rosy Reds are mostly sold as feeder fish in fish stores. They are the fish that youll see 500+ packed into a small tank. Because of these conditions, they are often disease ridden fungal infections, bacterial infections, and parasites. They come in different color variations rosy reds being pink, and the natural fat head color of brown. If being used as a feeder, theyll need to be quarantined, and medicated so that it will not pass on disease to your larger fish. It is best to breed your own rosy reds if you plan on using them as feeders. If you plan on keeping them in a community aquarium they should also be treated for parasites. They make wonderful additions to both cool water and tropical aquaria due to their very hardy nature. They will school, so keeping a minimum of three is best with a ratio of one male to two females. Rosy Reds are a popular pond fish, often used as a dither fish for fancy goldfish and koi. In a pond they will keep the insect larvae to a minimum, but will also eat goldfish and koi pellets. They are active even when the pond freezes over in the winter, and can often be seen swimming under the ice. These are a very inexpensive, hardy fish. They are a great addition to someone who wants a cool water tank but does not have the room to house goldfish. Or to someone who just wants something different in their tropical community tank. The males will care for their eggs and fry. Their breeding behavior is somewhat similar to cichlids. Overall this is a very underappreciated fish that would make a great addition to just about any aquaria. It is a great fish for someone wanting to try their hand at breeding egg layers for the first time

Scissor Tail Rasbora

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Scientific Name : Rasbora trilineata Common Names : Three lined Rasbora, Black Scissor Tail Care Level : Fairly easy, good for freshwater fish beginner Size : 5 inches (13 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 72F 79F (22C 26C) Water Hardness : 5 to 15 dH, Life Span : 5 years, sometimes longer Origin / Habitat : Found in slow moving rivers and streams of Asia and Sumatra, Borneo Temperament / Behavior : This rasbora is very peaceful and should do well in a community type setting. They do enjoy schooling, so groups of 5 or more would work well. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Can be difficult since they are supposed to hide their eggs under a rock or similar item in the tank and will leave them unprotected. Low light tanks with small drops in pH have been reported to induce spawning behavior. Tank Size : 20 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Peaceful tetras and other rasboras, smaller bottom dwelling species such as the Corydoras Catfish. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, they will eat many fish foods including flakes, freeze dried and live foods. As with many fish, try to vary their diet for optimum health and colors. They eat insects in the wild but this can difficult to provide in the home aquarium. Tank Region : Can range from the middle to the top, but mostly on the top of the tank. Gender : Difficult to determine, but the female may be more round in shape.

The Rasbora trilineata or Scissor Tail Rasbora is also called the Three Lined Rasbora in some places. They have a forked tail (caudal fin) that has black and white markings on it that are similar to the dorsal fin on the pristella tetra. There is a horizontal black bar on the mid section that runs the length of the body. The forked tail gives them a unique swimming style that is the reason for the common name. Their tail makes an opening and closing scissor like motion while swimming. If youre looking for a nice, easy going community fish for the top parts of your freshwater fish tank this fish may be for you. They will bring lots of activity to the top levels of your aquarium and should not bother any of their tank mates.

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Feeding them should not pose a problem since they will take flakes, frozen and freeze dried foods. They especially like freeze dried blood worms, but dont over do it. A little bit of the freeze dried bloodworms goes a long way and only give them this food as a treat every once in a while. A good quality flake food should serve as the main part of the Scissor Tail Rasboras diet.

Serpae Tetra
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Scientific Name : Hyphessobrycon callistus Common Names : Jewel Tetra, Red Minor Tetra Care Level : Easy, good for freshwater beginners Size : 1.5 inches (4 cm) pH : 5 7.8 Temperature : 72F 79F (22C 26C) Water Hardness : 10 to 25 dH, Life Span : 5 7 years Origin / Habitat : South America Temperament / Behavior : This tetra is generally peaceful but they are sometimes prone to fin nipping on some of their tank mates. Keeping them in a school of 6 or more may help alleviate this problem. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Not too hard if the ph is between 6.5 and 6.8. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Other Tetras, Catfish and Plecos, Swordtails. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, they will eat many fish foods including flakes, freeze dried and live foods. As with many fish, try to vary their diet for optimum health and colors. Tank Region : Middle to bottom Gender : Hard to determine, but the female may be more round in shape. Gallery Photos : Serpae Tetra Photos

The Serpae Tetra is one of the more colorful tetras that sometimes gets a bad reputation for being a fin nipper. This behavior is usually brought on because they are not being kept in schools of 6 or more. Provided that you have the room for a small school of these fish, the Serpaes can make a good addition to a community tank.

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They have a brown body, almost amber colored with a black dorsal fin and red caudal and anal fins. They look really good in an aquarium with a lush growth of live aquarium plants. You can usually find them swimming in a shoal in the middle to bottom regions of your tank. They should leave other fish alone and chase each other playfully around the tank. Serpae Tetras will accept nearly all fish food such as flakes, frozen, live and freeze dried

Shell Dweller Cichlid Shellies

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Scientific Name : Neolamprologus multifasciatus Common Names : Multie, Shellie (For most shell-dwellers) Care Level : Easy, as long as you have enough shells and good parameters. Size : Males grow up to 1.5 2 inches (~5 cm); Females grow to .75 1 inch (~2.5 cm) pH : Around 7.6 8 Temperature : 78 80 F (~25-26 C) Water Hardness : 15 Origin / Habitat : Lake Tanganyika in Africa Temperament / Behavior : Can be aggressive to fish in their territory, and may eat fry if population gets too big. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Make sure you have the tank set up like described in the opening paragraphs. Males will spawn with multiple females. They are egg-layers, but typically you will only tell that a spawn has occurred by seeing the tiny fry. Fry typically do not pick on each other, and parents are protective unless the population gets too big. Feed fry foods, baby brine shrimp, or finely crushed flakes. There should be from 430 fry per spawn. Tank Size : Preferably 5-10 gallons, the longer the better. Compatible Tank Mates : Depending on the size of the tank, you may be able to have other fish that live in the upper regions, though do this with caution, as other fish can eat your fry. Dont mix shell-dweller species. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : Need a diet slightly high in protein. Tank Region : Bottom

Neolamprologus multifasciatus, or for short, Multies are a special type of cichlid for many reasons. The first reason is they are shell-dwellers, or Shellies, which means that they live and breed in shells. In the wild, these fish live on the bottom of Lake Tanganyika in Africa. They colonize the thousands of Neothauma snail shells and form territories of their own shells and live, sleep, and breed inside these shells. They mainly stay near these shells, and on the bottom, so it is best to get a short, long tank. The second special thing about Multies is that they are the smallest cichlid in the world, the males maximum size is 1.5 to 2 inches, and the females maximum size is only around .75 to 1 inch long! This means that they are easier to keep in smaller aquariums. For a tank setup, you can use almost any tank, preferably a 10 gallon, and if possible, go for a longer tank, since they use mainly bottom space. These fish are big diggers, so definitely 120

have either sand or very fine gravel if you want to see this behavior. Also, they should have about 2-6 shells per fish, so they can choose which ones they want. You can use Apple snail, escargot, or practically any other type of shell you want, or also PVC elbows with caps can work fine too. Most filtration can work, just be careful that the fry cant get sucked up and make sure you do not use an UGF (Under-Gravel Filter) due to the possibility of sand compacting under it

Silver Arowana
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Scientific Name : Osteoglossum bicirrhosum Common Names : Dragon Fish, Arawana, Aruana, Arrowana, etc. Arowana Care Level : Moderate to Difficult, needs a large tank and is not recommended for the beginning aquarist. Needs a good aquarium filter like an external canister filter. Size : 35 40 inches (89 102 cm) pH : 6.0 7.5 Temperature : 75F 83F (24C 28C) Lifespan : 10 20 years or longer. Origin / Habitat : South America, Amazon River Temperament / Behavior : Can be aggressive, especially with smaller aquarium species. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They have been bred in captivity. The males carry the eggs in their mouths (mouth brooder). Tank Size : 200 gallon minimum but preferrably much larger tanks. This fish is best left in the wild, in public aquarium displays or with advanced hobbyists with the equipment and space to keep them. Compatible Tank Mates : Because of the huge adult size of Arowana there are very few common aquarium species recommended. One that may potentially be kept with them is the Common Pleco, but you would need an even bigger tank (bigger than 200 gallons) to provide both of them with adequate water volume as adults. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : A carnivore provide a varied diet with pellet food, frozen food and they will definitely accept live food. Tank Region : Mostly at the top of tank Gender : May only be possible to determine gender differences in mature adults Arowanas. Males may have larger mouths since they are mouth breeders.

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The Silver Arowana comes from the Amazon River in South America. They are very beautiful and a fascinating fish to watch. However, because of their huge adult size of 35 40 inches (89 102 cm) they are not recommended for the beginning aquarist. Actually, this is one of those fish that are probably best kept in the wild or in huge public aquariums. The Arowana requires at least a 200 gallon (750 liters) tank to adequately keep them. You also need an excellent aquarium filter such as an external canister filter. Arowanas are also excellent jumpers so you will need a good, tight fitting hood with no escape holes. In the wild, the Silver Arowana can jump out of the water at insects and small animals on overhanging branches. Because of their potential adult size, there are not many compatible tank mates that quickly come to mind but you may be able to keep an Arowana with a larger Common Pleco. This fish is definitely one fish species that is best left to the experts and public aquariums.

Silver Dollar Fish

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Scientific Name : Metynnis hypsauchen Common Names : Silver Dollar Fish Care Level : Easy, good for freshwater beginners and quite hardy once acclimated. Stay on top of your water changes to prevent nitrates from accumulating. Size : 6 7 inches (15 18 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 75F 82F (24C 28C) Water Hardness : 8 to 15 dH, Life span : 5 10 years Origin / Habitat : South America Temperament / Behavior : They are generally peaceful. It is best to keep them in small schools of 4 or more. They may become scared easily if not kept in schools. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeding them is not very difficult. They prefer broad leaves to lay their eggs on. Tank Size : 20 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, due to their peaceful nature. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Herbivore primarily, but will go after most anything you put in the tank. Give them a varied diet of fish food including algae wafers, flake, freeze dried and live foods for optimum health. Tank Region : Mostly in the middle Gender : The males anal fin will have a small amount of red on it. Gallery Photos : Silver Dollar Fish Photos

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The Silver Dollar fish comes from South America and has been a favorite among tropical fish hobbyists for many years. The Silver Dollar gets to be about 6 inches or about the size of a saucer. They are a brilliant silver in color and in some varieties, the male will have a small amount of red on its anal fin. They do best in schools of 6 or more and can become scared easily if not in a school. However, even in small schools they can still be very skittish, especially if you approach the tank too quickly. If you come up too fast or if you make quick movements they may start darting around the tank and could possibly injure themselves. For this reason, make sure that there are no sharp tank decorations in the aquarium. Silver Dollars are mostly peaceful but can be extremely aggressive eaters. Watching them eat can be fun. Drop an algae wafer into your tank and watch the other silvers chase the one that gets it around the tank. For the plant keepers out there, they are herbivores and notorious for the serious damage that they can do to your live plants. For food, they will accept most foods including flakes, pellets, frozen, freeze dried and live foods. They can be fairly hardy once acclimated, but avoid fluctuating water parameters. When you are doing your water changes try to put in water that is as close to the same temperature as possible and dont let those nitrates get too high

Sparkling Gourami Trichopsis Pumila

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Scientific Name : Trichopsis Pumila Common Names : Sparkling Gourami, Pygmy Gourami Care Level : Medium Difficult since it needs a well-established tank with plenty of hiding spaces and non-aggressive tank mates. Size : 1.5 inches pH : 7.0 Temperature :76-82F (24-28C) Lifespan : 3 years or more Origin / Habitat : Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand (Southeast Asia) in small ponds and ditches. Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful and often shy if not provided with enough hiding spaces and plants. 123

Tank Size : 5 gallons and above, the larger the better. Compatible Tank Mates : Non-aggressive and small fish species. Since the Sparkling is so peaceful it might become stressed and overly timid with aggressive tank mates; it might become food for larger fish as well. Breeding : Males will produce and guard the bubblenest. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, but could use a veggie meal every once in a while. Tank Region : Bottom- mid dweller Gender : The sex of the sparkling will become notorious during mating rituals, which are similar to those of other gouramis and bettas.

The Sparkling Gourami, or Pygmy Gourami as it is called sometimes, is one of the smallest members of the labyrinth fish family. The body of this gourami resembles that of a female or juvenile Betta and its definitely smaller than we would expect in a Gourami. The reason why this tiny anabantid is called Sparkling is because of its coloration; his body and eyes appear iridescent under adequate lighting. The Sparkling makes a great addition to any successful, established and cycled fish tank. It is a delicate fish however, and even though it is easy to keep, water parameters should be watched closely. This tiny fish is a good candidate for a small tank, preferably well planted and with plenty of hiding spaces. The Sparkling Gourami is a shy little fish, and should not be kept with aggressive or considerably bigger tank mates. Contrary to the other types of gouramis, the Sparkling may be kept in multiple numbers in the aquarium with little aggression and does not require to be kept in schools

Swordtail Fish
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Scientific Name : Xiphophorus helleri Common Names : Black Swordtail, Gold Tux, Green, Lyretail, Neon, Red Simpson, Spotted, Red Velvet Swordtails, Black Velvet, Belize, Atoyac Swordtail Care Level : Easy, good fish for freshwater fish beginners Size : Up to 5 inches (13 cm) 124

pH : 7 8 Temperature : 72F 82F (22C 28C) Water Hardness : 9 to 15 dH, Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : Central America Temperament / Behavior : The swordtail is a tough litte fish. They can take care of themselves when there are bigger fish in the tank. The males may become aggressive towards other males. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : They are livebearers, so it is fairly easy for them to breed. Be sure to give a lot of floating cover for the baby swords. Try to put the babies in a separate tank otherwise the adult fish will eat them. Check out this breeding swordtails article for more information. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger Compatible Tank Mates : Dont keep with tropical fish big enough to eat them. They should be able to handle themselves with many fish their same size or larger. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore but they need some greens in their diet. They will take flake, freeze dried and live foods. Tank Region : All over the tank Gender : Easy to determine the male has a signature long anal fin. Gallery Photos : Swordtail Fish Photos

The Swordtail comes in many different colors with the males being easily identified by their signature sword tail. This is an extremely hardy fish that can adapt to a wide range of water conditions. They are livebearers which means that the baby fish come out free swimming. Like their livebearer counterpart, the guppy, the swordtail is a prolific breeder and a female will give birth about once every 28 days. If you are interested in breeding them, please check out the breeding livebearers page for more information. Some hobbyists have reported problems with aggression among male swordtails when keeping multiples. It may be a good idea to limit the number of male swordtails in your tank. A good mix may be three females to one male. They will eat most fish foods including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods such as brine shrimp

Tiger Barb
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Scientific Name : Puntius tetrazona Common Names : Sumatra Barb, Green and Albino, Partbelt Barb Care Level : Easy Size : 3 inches (8 cm) pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 70F 78F (21C 26C) Water Hardness : 5 to 15 dH Origin / Habitat : Indonesia, Sumatra, Borneo Lifespan : 5 years Temperament / Behavior : They can be semi-aggressive. They do best when kept in a school of 6 or more. Getting only of couple of them will surely bring out their fin nipping behavior. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Breeding them can be somewhat difficult. Barbs are egglayers and they will eat the eggs. Provide plenty of broad leaf plants for them to scatter thier eggs on. Separate the adults from the eggs. Tank Size : 20 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Avoid keeping them with tropical fish that are long-finned and slow moving. They will most likely not do well with this fish. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore, will accept flake, freeze-dried and especially live foods such as brine shrimp. Tank Region : Middle Gender : The female is usually bigger and the male may develop a red coloration on its nose. Gallery Photos : Tiger Barb Photos

The Tiger Barb has black bands that run vertically on an orange/gold body. There are also a few different varieties of this Barb such as the Albino and the Green. Stocking this species in a community tank can be risky. They are a very active tropical fish that has a reputation for nipping the fins of its tank mates. This fin nipping behavior is most often attributed to not having enough tiger barbs in the tank. With that being stated, they do best when kept in schools of 6 or more. Given thier somewhat aggressive nature, it might be a good idea to think twice before adding them to a community tank. The Tiger Barb will take regular tropical fish flakes but you should try to supplement their diet every once in a while with brine shrimp or krill 126

Tinfoil Barb
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Scientific Name : Barbus schwanefeldi Common Names : River Barb Care Level : Easy to Moderate, this fish needs a larger tank Size : 13 inches (32 cm) pH : 6.0 7.5 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Life span : 8 10 years Origin / Habitat : Rivers in Thailand and Sumatra Temperament / Behavior : This fish can be peaceful enough for a very large community tank, but it may eat smaller fish. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : May be possible to breed in the home aquarium. You would need a very large tank to house the adults. Egglayer that likes higher temperatures (77 80F) for breeding. Remove adults to keep them from eating the eggs. Tank Size : 75 gallon (284 liters) minimum Compatible Tank Mates : May go well with Bala Shark, Pleco, Silver Dollar and other large fish Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diet / Fish Food : An herbivore provide a varied diet with algae wafers, pellet food and frozen food. Tank Region : Mostly middle to top Gender : Difficult to determine

The Tinfoil Barb is a fish that is often available in pet shops and sold to the beginning aquarist but it is not the best choice for those beginning in the freshwater hobby. The tinfoil barb requires a very large tank, at least 75 gallons (284 liters) because of its potential adult size of 13 inches (32 cm). They like to have lots of space for swimming and they are indeed fast swimmers. They also like to jump out of tanks that dont have tight fitting hoods. The sides of the Tin foil Barb resemble tin foil (hence the name) and the fins on the this barb will become more red as they mature. Juveniles (pictured below) lack the red on the fins. Tin foil Barbs will accept most fish food, including flakes, pellets, frozen and freeze-dried foods. They will also go after your live plants and any smaller fish if given the opportunity

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White Cloud Mountain Minnow

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Scientific Name : Tanichthys albonubes Common Names : Meteor Minnow, Chinese Danio Care Level : Easy, good for freshwater beginners Life span : 3 5 years generally, possibly longer Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 6 8 Temperature : 45F 70F (7C 21C) Water Hardness : 5 to 25 dH, Origin / Habitat : China Temperament / Behavior : Peaceful and best kept in schools of 6 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Easy. Give them a water temperature around 68F and they will lay their eggs on the bottom of the tank. You will have to remove the adults because they will eat the eggs. Tank Size : 5 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Many, given their generally peaceful nature. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Omnivore will eat many food items including flakes, pellets and live foods. Tank Region : All over the tank Gender : Males will have more color than the females.

The white cloud mountain minnow is an extremely hardy fish that can withstand a wide range of temperatures. They can be kept in an aquarium without a heater as long as the temperature does not drop below 45F (7C). They are peaceful and are suitable tank mates for a community tank as long as the aquarium temperature doesnt get too high. Many keep them in small desktop tanks.

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The White Cloud Mountain Minnow will eat flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods.

White Skirt Tetra

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Scientific Name : Gymnocorymbus ternetzi Common Names : Gold Skirt Tetra, White Tetra same as the Black Skirt Tetra. Care Level : Easy, can be recommended for a freshwater fish beginner with a cycled aquarium. Size : 2 inches (6 cm), sometimes slightly larger. pH : 6 7.5 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH Lifespan : 3 5 years Origin / Habitat : South America, river basin areas Temperament / Behavior : A generally peaceful fish that appreciates being in a school of 5 or more. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Egg scatterer. The adults may eat the eggs. You will need a bare bottom breeding tank and will have to remove the adults after they release the eggs. Tank Size : 20 gallons (114 liters) remember, this is a schooling fish.

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Compatible Tank Mates : You dont want to keep them overly aggressive tank mates. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : This tetra should eat most common aquarium foods. Flakes, frozen, freeze dried and may nibble at some aquarium plants. Tank Region : All over, but mostly in the middle and top. Gender : The female will usually be larger and the male may have a wider anal fin. Females should start to plump around mating time. Gallery Photos : White Skirt Tetra Photos Similar Species : Characins, Tetras

The White Skirt Tetra is a genetic morph of the Black Skirt Tetra. As far as care requirements go, they are virtually identical to those of the Black Skirt Tetra. The White Skirt is sometimes the victim of fish dyeing. Sometimes youll come across a fish called a Blueberry Tetra or Strawberry Tetra and it may be a White Skirt Tetra that has been dyed. Please do not buy these fish! Fish dyeing is a harmful practice and should not be supported. They need to be kept in a group of 5 or more and may get fin nipped by others. They are fairly hardy and can be a nice fish for the freshwater fish beginner with a cycled aquarium. Since you need to keep them in a small school, youll need to have at least a 20 gallon tank (114 liters). You can keep less of them in a smaller tank but you may see the White Skirt Tetras fin nipping others in this case. They will really appreciate a tank with live aquarium plants. The live plants will provide places of refuge and help make them feel more secure. Give them a good diet of vitamin enriched flake foods with the occasional frozen food as a supplement to their diet

Zebra Danio
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Scientific Name : Danio rerio Common Names : Zebra Fish, Striped Danio Care Level : Easy Size : Up to 2 inches (5 cm) pH : 6.5 8 Temperature : 65F 75F (18C 24C) 130

Water Hardness : 5 to 25 dH, Lifespan : 2 5 years Origin / Habitat : India Temperament / Behavior : They are usually peaceful but they can be fin nippers. They are best kept in schools of 6 or more. Zebra Danio Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Easy. Maintain a water temperature of 78F and the female will drop its eggs in the gravel bed. The eggs will hatch in two days and you will have to remove the adults because they will eat the fry. Tank Size : 10 gallon or larger. Compatible Tank Mates : Other Danios, Corydoras and some Tetras. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : They will take flakes, freeze dried (blood worms, daphnia, brine shrimp, etc) and live foods. Tank Region : Middle to Top Gender : Males have yellow in between the black stripes and female zebra danios are sometimes larger. Gallery Photos : Zebra Danio Photos Similar Species : Cyprinids, Barbs

The Zebra Danio is one of the most popular tropical fish for many reasons. They are very hardy, attractive to look at and they usually do well in groups of 6 or more. They are a good first fish for beginners to the tropical fish hobby because of their tolerance of a wide range of water parameters. Because of their hardiness, many will use zebra danios to cycle their new tanks. This is not a recommended practice because it can be very traumatic and stressful to the fish. They are frequently used as dither fish in aquariums since they are constantly out swimming all over the tank. Dither fish are used to help calm other fish that may be skittish. The scared fish will see the danios out swimming and may become more comfortable with their environment. Behavioral problems with this fish, such as fin nipping, can usually be attributed to not having enough of these schooling fish in your tank. To prevent this fin nipping behavior try to keep a school of 6 or more in your tank. They will eat vitamin enriched flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods.

Brackish Fish Profiles

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Columbian Shark
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Scientific Name : Hexanematichthys seemanni Common Names : A very long list of common names: Silver Tipped Shark, Tete Sea Catfish, White Tip Shark Catfish, Black Fin Shark, Christian Catfish, Jordans Catfish, West American Cat Shark Care Level : Moderate, needs a very large tank as adults Size : Anywhere from 10 20 inches (25-51 cm) and sometimes even larger! pH : 7 8 Temperature : 75F 80F (24C 27C) Water Hardness : 5 to 20 dH Specific Gravity : 1.005 1.010, saltwater as adults (1.020 1.025) Lifespan : 10 15 years or longer Origin / Habitat : Wild caught specimens originate from Central America, Guatemala, South America and Southern Mexico. They are often found in coastal waters and brackish rivers. Temperament / Behavior : Mostly peaceful but may eat smaller fish as it grows larger. Avoid keeping them with small fish such as neon tetras and guppies. Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : Very difficult, not sure if it has been accomplished in an aquarium. Males are mouth brooders. Tank Size : 75 gallon (284 liters) minimum for one, much larger for multiples. This fish needs a large tank not only for its size, but because it is a fairly active swimmer. Compatible Tank Mates : Fish that tolerate brackish water conditions. Scats, Monos, Targetfish. When this freshwater/brackish shark gets big enough, it will start to eat much smaller tankmates. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Diet / Fish Food : Being catfish, they are primarily scavengers. They will constantly be looking for bits and pieces on the bottom of the tank. Give them sinking shrimp pellets, catfish pellets, prepared sinking foods and supplement with live or frozen foods such as blood worms. Tank Region : Sometimes middle areas, but mostly on the bottom. Gender : Hard to determine by external features.

The Columbian Shark seems to be one of those fish that are always at the pet stores, often incorrectly identified and/or with misleading or incorrect information. For the majority of home hobbyists (95 percent or more of us) this fish is not a good one to keep. Let me explain why They usually get lumped in with the freshwater fish species but this fish is not purely a freshwater fish. It is actually a brackish water species as juveniles that will slowly need to be

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acclimated to a full saltwater tank as they get bigger. The potential adult size of this fish is also often misrepresented. They can reach 20 inches (51 cm) or more in size if taken care of properly. The other thing to keep in mind with the Columbian cats is that they are predators and will eat smaller tank mates once they get big enough. In fact, some hobbyists will feed them small feeder guppies as an occasional treat. They can be fairly active and will need lots of swimming room. Couple their activity levels with their potential adult size and you can start to realize that you will need a pretty big tank to keep these guys happy and healthy. They should accept most fish foods including flakes, frozen, freeze dried and live foods. Drop in some sinking shrimp pellets or catfish pellets when the lights are turned off and let them scavenge around for them. Colombian Sharks also have venomous dorsal spines, so be very careful when performing your tank maintenance. Its probably a really good idea to get some of those long rubber aquarium gloves.

Figure 8 Puffer Fish Tetraodon biocellatus

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Scientific Name : Tetraodon biocellatus Common Names : Figure eight puffer, Eyespot pufferfish, F8 puffer Care Level : Moderate Size : 3 (8 cm) pH : 7.6 8.3 Specific Gravity : does best in brackish of 1.005-1.008 SG Temperature :78-82 F (25-28 C) Lifespan : about 15 years Origin / Habitat : Asia and India in brackish streams and estuaries. Temperament / Behavior : semi-aggressive fin-nippers Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : practically non-existent in captivity Tank Size : 15 Gallons recommended, 10 gallons more for each additional figure 8 puffer Compatible Tank Mates : Best kept alone, can often be kept with other figure eights. Other possible tankmates include brackish gobies such as the bumblebee or mollies, but success is not very likely. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Be sure to quarantine, as they are wild caught and often come in with parasites. Diet / Fish Food : When young: snails, brine shrimp, bloodworms, blackworms, mealworms, plankton, krill, crickets, cockles, prawns, whitebait, daphnia, ghost shrimp, clams, mussels, squid, scallops, shrimp, crab legs, oysters, lobster, and crayfish. Tank Region : Middle. Active swimmers. Gender : Even for experts, it is nearly impossible to sex them. Usually the only way is by dissection, or if they happen to lay eggs (an unlikely occurrence). Similar Species : Green Spotted Puffer (Tetraodon nigroviridis)

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The Figure Eight Puffer is an entertaining fish thats full of personality. They look like young Green Spotted Puffers with unusual patterns, but they are truly very different fish with very different requirements. Figure 8s are a better choice for most aquarists than the GSP because their requirements are easier to meet. They will only grow to about half the size of a GSP, thus they need only half the space. 15 gallons is sufficient for one puffer, with 10 gallons more for each additional puffer. Also, they are easier to keep because unlike the GSPs who need high brackish to marine as adults, the Figure 8s only need a low brackish of 1.0051.008 throughout their lives. They also are a bit less aggressive than the GSP, so its easier to keep them living in harmony, especially if they are all raised together from a young age. But dont be fooled, they can still get quite nasty at times. The question of tankmates is open to debate. Some have reported at least short-term success with mollies, bumblebee gobies, and others. But really most fish will be pestered and nipped often. Also, an adult sailfin molly gets very large and will usually end up bullying the puffer instead of the other way around. Really the best thing to do is to keep a singleton, but groups of them can usually work if enough space and hiding places are provided. Also, some people say that F8s and GSPs can be kept together, but this is not a good idea. Not only do they have very different salinity requirements, but when the GSP gets larger and much more aggressive the Figure Eight will likely be bullied and picked on constantly. A healthy diet is a crucial part of keeping any puffer. Most important is foods that will grind down their ever-growing teeth. Snails are excellent for this, as well as clams and other hard crustaceans still in their shells. Other good foods for them are things such as bloodworms, blackworms, brine shrimp, mysisa shrimp, etc. Puffers appreciate a complex layout of decor to explore, as well as ample swimming room. If your puffer is just pacing the glass, its probably bored! They are very personable creatures, and will come to recognize their owner and also the food container. They make great pets and will give you years of enjoyment.

Green Spotted Puffer Tetraodon nigroviridis

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Scientific Name : Tetraodon nigroviridis Common Names : Green Spotted Puffer Care Level : Moderate Size : 6 (15 cm) pH : 7.5 8.2 Temperature : 78 82 F (25 28 C)

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Specific Gravity : adaptable, from low-end brackish (1.005) up to low-end saltwater (1.20) Lifespan : to 10 years, sometimes as much as 15 Origin / Habitat : brackish rivers and estuaries of Borneo and Sumatra Temperament / Behavior : aggressive fin-nippers Breeding / Mating / Reproduction : practically non-existent in captivity Tank Size : Minimum of 30 gallons (113.5 L) Compatible Tank Mates : Must be chosen with caution. Most will just be eaten. Some possible companions are: mollies, scats, monos, archerfish, bumblebee gobies, and other green spotted puffers. Fish Disease : Freshwater Fish Disease Diagnose, Symptoms and Treatment Be sure to quarantine, as they are wild caught and often come in with parasites. Diet / Fish Food : When young: snails, brine shrimp, plankton, krill, crickets, cockles, prawns, whitebait, worms, ghost shrimp. When larger (about 4 or so): all the above, and also clams, mussels, squid, scallops, shrimp, crab legs, oysters, lobster, and crayfish. Tank Region : Middle. Very active swimmers. Gender : Even for experts, it is nearly impossible to sex them. Usually the only way is by dissection, or if they happen to lay eggs (an unlikely occurrence).

The Green Spotted Puffer is a highly unique and interesting fish. Unfortunately it is often misunderstood. Commonly sold as a freshwater fish, it will only do well without marine salt in its water for a very short time. A good brackish setup is needed for health and longevity of this fish. They should be kept in large aquariums, with no less than 30 gallons per puffer, as they grow to be six inches. A big issue with these fish is the question of tankmates. Some have reported success in keeping these puffers with the Figure Eight Puffer, which when young looks very similar to the Green Spotted Puffer. However, the Figure 8 will only get to 4 and is much less aggressive, while the GSP will get up to 6 and is extremely aggressive as an adult. Some other possible tankmates could be mollies, scats, monos, archerfish, and bumblebee gobies. However, it is not uncommon for a puffer to get along with one of these tankmates for many months and then as soon as a sign of weakness shows or space becomes crowded, the puffer will eat the other fish. The best setup for them is species only, with either only one specimen or a large tank with several GSPs. These puffers require immaculate upkeep. They are scaleless and lack gill covers, so they should only be placed in a pre-cycled aquarium. Weekly water changes are recommended, as well as over filtration. They are intolerant of ammonia and nitrite, and should be kept with low nitrates. The puffers tank will soon be overrun with algae, but since there are no cleaners that will not be devoured by the puffers, it is up to the owner to take care of the algae. These fish are almost guaranteed to not breed in your aquarium. It is impossible to sex them, and nothing is known about the conditions needed for them to breed. The puffers sold at stores are always wild caught, and thus often come in with internal parasites. Be sure to quarantine them before adding them to your aquarium. When selecting a 135

puffer a good way to tell if they are healthy is if they have a rounded stomach rather than a sunken in one. Also, their stomachs should be white instead of grey, and they should be actively swimming and acknowledge when people lean in to take a look at them. If a puffer has a grey belly and parasites are ruled out, the next most likely possibilities are improper salinity or poor diet. Although its what they are famous for, you never want to see your puffer puff up. This is only triggered from extreme stress, and usual ends with the fishs death. Be careful when transporting puffers so they dont puff up. Its best to move them from place to place by directing them into a bag rather than netting them. While puffing in the water is dangerous to them, puffing in the air will almost certainly be fatal. Puffers will usually eat everything they can, and will literally eat themselves to death. Its better to give them a smaller, healthy diet rather than overfeeding. Variety is the key. The most important food for them is snails that are about the size of their eyes. The shells of these snails will wear down their beak-like teeth, which would grow so long that they would no longer be able to eat. The largest part of their diet is crustaceans. They are pure carnivores, and love meaty foods. Green spotted puffers are wonderful pets, and are highly rewarding. They are some of the most intelligent fish readily available, and have magnificent personalities that are more like dogs than fish. With proper care and attention, these fish can give their owner 10 or more years of great companionship s

Aquarium Gifts
Delight your favorite aquarium keeper with a gift they're sure to love! Sure to please beginners and committed enthusiasts alike, these aquarium gift ideas are useful for any freshwater & saltwater aquarium. Scroll down to see our different gift categories, including books , betta bowls and aquarium kits, useful tank accessories, decorations and more!

Gargoyle Hearth Bubbling Gargoyle Ship's Bow Floral Sunken Garden Car Ornament - 10.5 in. x 4 Ornament - 3 in. x Ornament - 11" x 8" Wreck - Medium x 10.5" Regular Price: in. x 8.5 in. 3.5 in. x 6 in. $14.89 Regular Price: $9.89 Regular Price: Regular Price: $29.89 $7.89

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Sea Turtle Ornament Regular Price: $4.89

Capt Kidd's Buried Alien Skull Baby Hide-Out Treasure Aquarium (Penn Plax) Regular Price: Ornament - Small Regular Price: $9.89 $4.29 4 1/2 in. x 5 1/2 in. x 5 1/2 in. Regular Price: $7.89

Fish Bowl 1 1/4 Marina Betta Pals Purple Marina Betta Pals 1 Gallon Fish Bowl Drum-Plastic Gal. Round-Plastic Regular Price: $11.89 Green Regular Price: $7.89 Regular Price: $6.89 Regular Price: $11.89

Floating Thermometer Regular Price: $2.29

Ammonia Alert Regular Price: $6.19

Lettuce Clip - Clown Reef Bugs (Marc Fish Weiss Ent) Regular Price: $2.89 Regular Price: $19.89

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Instant Amazon 16oz Regular Price: $10.29

Ultimate Gravel Aqualight Power Nutramatic 2X Vac 25' Kit (Lee's) Center with Automatic Feeder Regular Price: Lighting/Wavemaker (Hagen) $29.89 Timers (ESU) Regular Price: Regular Price: $44.79 $26.79

Automatic Fish Feeder Breeding Lee's Specimen Tap Water Filter w/Hopper Shrimpery (SF Bay) Container - large (Aquarium Regular Price: $57.89 Regular Price: Regular Price: $8.89 Pharmaceuticals) $7.89 Regular Price: $49.89 Sale Price: $42.79

Lee's Five-way Fish Breeder Regular Price: $9.89

Lee's Net Breeder Regular Price: $7.89

Aquarium Maintenance

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Once you have got your aquarium all set up and running beautifully, you can sit back and enjoy the view. Well, not exactly sit back. Theres maintenance work to be done! The good thing about maintenance work is that if it is done on a frequent basis it is relatively simple and quick. If steps are not taken in time, maintenance can instead turn into a dreaded chore. Before we go into the details, it is important to understand why it isnecessary to give regular care to your aquarium and its occupants. Your aquarium being a thriving ecosystem generates a lot of waste and toxic materials in the normal course of its day-to-day operation. The fish give out ammonia and solid fish wastes that collect in the aquarium. The plants will also generate waste products and growing plants will need to be pruned, cleaned and replanted. A minimal amount of algal growth is unavoidable in any functional aquarium. Microscopic organisms will build up in the water over a period of time. If you are keeping any invertebrates in your aquarium, these will also need 139

special care. The substrate in your aquarium is like a garbage bin that collects all the material wastes. And like any garbage left unclean for a period of time, this will begin to fester and give out infection causing germs. The water in the aquarium is regularly getting depleted of vital nutrients. It is also collecting a lot of diluted waste that needs to be thrown out. It is therefore vital to clean and replenish your aquarium regularly to keep your aquarium in good health

Aquarium Setup& Fish tanks Basic Concepts

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An aquarium is made of glass or extremely strong plastic and is basically made for holding fish, amphibians or any other type of marine animal. These fish can be tropical or salt water, or even corals but the aquarium has to be able to maintain the weight of the water that will be put into the tank. Aquariums are fast becoming one of the leading hobbies around, many people use aquariums for decorative purposes. Aquariums range in size, they can be simple gold fish bowls or they can be intensive set up reaching something like eight or even nine feet wide. Many people even boast of a fish room. Fish collecting has been around for years and is especially popular in countries like Japan. The Japanese are renowned for keeping coldwater fish such as Koi in extremely decorative ponds outside, these Koi are basically beautifully decorated goldfish. The word aquarium originates from the ancient Latin language, aqua meaning water and the suffix rium meaning place or building. Aquariums are beautiful and look good anywhere! They are perfect for those people who want to devote a lot of time and effort to a hobby. This is not the type of thing that you can just start and leave. This is an on going type of project that needs to be constantly assessed and adjusted. The animals inside the aquarium need to be fed, need to have the aquarium represent their natural habitat and need space, so you have to get a large enough aquarium to fit the animal or animals of course! Aquariums are stunning pieces of equipment but they do need a lot of work and attention. Thats why this hobby is not for young people. It is more of an older persons hobby who is going to be willing and responsible enough for all the things that are required when setting up and maintaining an aquarium.

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They can be the most beautiful thing to look at if they are decorated nicely enough, and Im sure that you will do a great job in making sure that the aquarium looks just like the creature natural habitat, this is what makes the animal settle quicker! Just make sure that you are prepared to take on the responsibility before investing in an aquarium as they are also quite expensive! Home aquariums are becoming more and more popular, it is a hobby that many people are flocking too and fish shops are on the rise. Fish are generally easy to keep although do they need quite a bit of attention. Puppies and kittens were the typical pet but now fish are becoming more and more frequent in house holds. In recent years fish shops have noticed a great increase in the rise if people wanting to purchase aquariums and fish, the boom has been great for local shops as the fish industry hasnt been such a great industry before now. When collecting fish for a home aquarium it is always great to seek some advice from your local pet shop. They are the experts and what they say should be given great consideration. They explain to you the process in which bacteria builds up. They let you know all the essentials in setting a great home aquarium and they know the best fish that is suited to your needs. They let you know all about the responsibilities that are involved when deciding to set up a home aquarium. Fish shops are brilliant for purchasing the equipment that you need, it is cheaper than anywhere else, except the internet of course. Most fish experts will advise you to purchase a ready made aquarium that comes with the tank, stand, heater, filter and lighting equipment. Home aquariums can be as small and simple as you like or they can be huge and intensive set ups that requires hours each week of maintenance. A home aquarium can be a great experience for all the family and it is something that they can all join in, although keep the children away from the poisonous fish, and the fish waste! Which ever aquarium set up that you choose you should always make sure that you take great effort in keeping the fish. After all it would not be nice to wake up one morning and find that all your fish are dead, now would it?!

Common Fish Tank Sizes and Characteristics

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The following table lists many of the most common sized fish tanks, along with dimensions, weight (empty and full), and whether the tank has a tempered glass bottom or not.
Basic

Note: Weights are for glass aquariums, acrylic will weigh less
Small Aquariums (not recommended for beginners)

Aquarium

Sizes

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Size 2 1/2 gallon 5 gallon 10 gallon Leader 15 gallon 15 gallon High

LxWxH 12 x 6 x 8 16 x 8 x 10 20 x 10 x 12 24 x 12 x 12 20 x 10 x 18

Filled Weight 27 lbs 62 lbs 111 lbs 170 lbs 170 lbs

Exotic Freshwater and Saltwater Fish, Coral, Live Rock and Plants at That Fish Place
Mid-sized Aquariums

Size 20 gallon High 20 gallon Long 25 gallon 29 gallon 30 gallon Breeder 40 gallon Breeder 40 gallon Long

LxWxH 24 x 12 x 16 30 x 12 x 12 24 x 12 x 20 30 x 12 x 18 36 x 18 x 12 36 x 18 x 16 48 x 12 x 16

Filled Weight 225 lbs 225 lbs 282 lbs 330 lbs 348 lbs 458 lbs 455 lbs

Large Aquariums

Size 50 gallon 55 gallon 65 gallon 75 gallon 90 gallon 125 gallon 150 gallon 180 Gallon

LxWxH 36 x 18 x 19 48 x 13 x 21 36 x 18 x 24 48 x 18 x 21 48 x 18 x 24 72 x 18 x 21 72 x 18 x 28 72 x 24 x 25

Filled Weight 600 lbs 625 lbs 772 lbs 850 lbs 1050 lbs 1400 lbs 1800 lbs 2100 lbs

Daily Aquarium Care

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Lighting: unless the aquarium contains live plants, the aquarium light does not need to be on except while feeding or observing the fish. Room light is generally sufficient to keep the fish active during the day and leaving the aquarium light on for too long can cause unsightly algae growth. Most hobbyists, however, dont want to be bothered with turning the lights on and off several times each day and choose instead to simply leave it on continuously for 6 to 10

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hours each day. An inexpensive electrical timer can be installed to provide the fish with a consistent light/dark cycle and compensate for the forgetful aquarist. Feeding: after the tanks break-in cycle is completed, most common aquarium fish should be fed two or three times per day, but each feeding should consist of only as much as is consumed in two or three minutes. This takes a little practice, and the careful aquarist will actually time his feedings occasionally, to be certain that the proper amount of food is given. Overfeeding is feeding too much at a time, rather than too often. Fish could probably be fed 10 times a day without problem, but one overly generous portion every two days could cause problems. Uneaten food contributes to poor water quality, which causes water cloudiness, rapid algae growth, and often leads to fish disease. Alternating feedings among flake, frozen, freeze-dried, and pelleted foods will provide a well balanced diet for fishes of various feeding habits. Observing: it is important to take a few moments each day to simply look at the aquarium fish. Did every fish get something to eat today? Perhaps some are picky about the type of food they will accept; or maybe others are being intimidated by the tank bully at mealtimes. Do all the fish appear to swim, breathe, and otherwise act normally? It takes some experience of course to determine what is normal for each type of fish, but daily observation will provide that experience. Do the fish all appear to get along? Even a tank full of so-called community fish can have compatibility problems, and fish that have gotten along just fine for months or years might suddenly begin to harass one another. And finally, are there any signs of torn fins, discoloration, white spots, red blotches or other signals of disease? Just as in human disease, treatments are most successful if the infection is caught early. Checking equipment: the various pumps, filters and heaters typically installed on aquariums might well be referred to as the Life Seferred to as the Life Support System. A quick glance at the thermometer should be made a daily habit perhaps at feeding time. Fluctuations in temperature cause stress that often leads to disease outbreaks. Checking to make sure all other equipment is also plugged in, turned on, and operating properly takes only a few additional seconds and may well pre-empt a developing disaster

feeding fish
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Your fish need a varied diet in order to be healthy and happy. Many flake foods are formulated to provide all the vitamins and nutrients your fish need, but variety will keep your fish happy! Fish are cold blooded. They dont need food energy to keep their body temperatures up like warm blooded animals do. Fish also dont need food energy to stay afloat. This means that your fish can get by on a very small amount of food unless you want them to breed. Fish feeding tips:

Two or three small feedings per day is better than one large daily feeding. Only give as much food as your fish will eat within two minutes. Overfeeding your fish can lead to poor water quality. Uneaten food releases ammonia into the water as it decomposes, and can throw off your tanks water balance. Overfeeding your fish can stress them. Overfeeding your fish can encourage unwanted breeding. An automatic feeder will dispense exactly the same amount of food at an interval you specify. These are very useful if youll be going away for a few days.

Territorial fish can monopolize a food supply; schooling fish are relatively good about sharing. 143

Bottom feeding fish may not get equal access to floating food like fish flakes. Starvation is a major cause of failure with bottom feeders like catfish and loaches. Dont overfeed your tank in the hopes of making sure your bottom feeding fish get enough to eat! Instead, offer foods that sink like algae wafers and shrimp pellets. Try feeding your bottom feeders after the tank lights are out for the night top dwellers will be less competitive then. Most bottom dwellers are nocturnal, and will be more active after the lights are out anyway. Make sure all the sinking food is gone by morning, or you run the risk of overfeeding and your water quality can suffer.

fish tanks /aquarium cleaning easy tips

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In comparison with other pets fish need very little of your time and attention. Some maintenance is important, however, when dealing with aquariums and saltwater or freshwater fish CHANGING WATER Your biggest chore in caring for fish will be changing their water. No matter how effective and advanced your filter system is, it cannot extract all waste materials that accumulate. When the water becomes cloudy or yellow, youre way past due for a water change. Dirty, soiled, water leads to stress, illness, and growth problems in all saltwater and freshwater fish, so its important never to put this duty off for too long. A LITTLE AT A TIME Experts will tell you that the best approach to take when changing water is to do a little at a time. Rather than draining the whole tank, cleaning, and putting the fish back into their home, youll change some of the water at shorter intervals. This method allows good bacteria to remain in the tank, which helps to naturally break down fish waste. You can practise this technique by: 1. Unplug the electrical equipment attached to the tank. 2. Using a specialty aquarium scraper (free of detergents, soaps, or other harmful chemical cleansers), begin cleaning the inside of the glass, scraping the algae and other debris downward. Always use slow, deliberate motions, so as not to cause unneeded stress to the fish still in the tank. 3. If you have live plants in the tank, take this time to remove them. You can also move plants, rocks, corral, and decorations around during this time, as well, to give the fish some new surroundings. 4. Stir up the gravel a little to allow waste matter to float freely inside the tank. Be extra cautious during this step, to be certain you dont injure or accidentally bury a fish. 5. Move the gravel to the back corners of the tank, leaving the front and middle of the tank with only a shallow layer of gravel. As you do this, debris will begin to settle toward the front of the tank. 6. Remove one-quarter to one-third of the water in the tank. You can do this with an aquarium approved siphon or by manually scooping it out with a pitcher or large cup. 7. Youll need to get rid of as much debris from the water and gravel as possible. You can do this with a specialized aquarium vacuum or your siphon. 8. You can now refill the aquarium. Be sure to use water that is aged chemically or naturally, and is within 3-degrees of the aquariums temperature.

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9. If you have saltwater fish, add the appropriate amount of aquarium salt now. (Most recommend adding 1 tablespoon for every 5-gallons of water removed from the tank.) 10. Replug all accessories and lighting fixtures. CLEANING THE LIGHTING UNIT The biggest mistake fish owners make is to leave an aquarium light on 24-hours a day. In truth, unless your tank is filled with live plants, the light never needs to be on. While its just fine to turn the light on while feeding fish or for observation, aquarium lighting left on for long periods of time will cause an overgrowth of algae. To clean aquarium light fixtures: 1. Unplug the light. 2. Remove light fixture and casing from the tank. 3. Use an algae scraper or aquarium mitt to remove as much debris and algae as possible. 4. Rinse. 5. Replace fixture. 6. Plug electrical light back in. Aquarium lights can be cleaned while changing water or on their own. Wipe down lights at least once every 3-weeks. COVER CLEANSING Cleaning the cover of the tank can be done whenever necessary. FILTERS The best time to replace or clean filters is while changing water. That way, debris that has been stirred up and moved into the filter, can be cleansed with the water. Many aquarium filters do not need to be cleansed more than once a month. Never clean filters using household cleansers or hot water. 1. Unplug the filter. 2. Rinse out the sponge contained in the filter box with cool water. 3. If using filter floss, remove half of dirty floss, replacing with new. Always leave half of the original floss, even when dirty, inside the box. This will keep enough good bacteria growing in the tank to keep fish in optimum conditions. PLANTS When plastic plants are visibly covered in algae, rinse them in cool water, and replace. This should be done once a month, if necessary. TIPS AND TRICKS ADDING a few algae eating fish to you tank, like the otocinclus, stone lappers, or Siamese algae eaters, can help keep algae in check. RAPID algae growth is a signal that something is wrong. The most common causes of algae overgrowth are overfeeding and leaving tank lights on for more than 10-hours per day. IF FORGETTING to turn tank lights off is a problem, invest in an inexpensive light timer that will automatically turn lights off and on at appropriate intervals. INVESTING in an aquarium or gravel vacuum makes separating debris from a gravel easier. NEVER use household chemical cleaners to cleanse aquarium glass or any other tank accessories. If added cleaning solution is required, use aquarium approved supplies or a 50-50 mixture of vinegar and water. ALWAYS KEEP an eye on tank temperature. Tropical fish do well in temperatures between 75-78-degrees F. Any sudden change in internal aquarium temperature could indicate a problem. NEVER USE aquarium buckets for anything other than changing water. Buckets contaminated with cleansers, dust and debris can easily cause illness in fish.

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Fish tanks Equipment

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Aquariums are not just a tank and a stand, the aquarium has to be filled with certain equipment such as heaters and filters. Aquarium equipment is essential in the up keep of your fish. The tank needs to be clean and the fish need to be kept happy if they are going to survive in their new home. When imported to this country, fish are kept in small boxes so they have not had any experience of being in a large proper tank. Heaters are an essential part of your aquarium because if you have any kind of tropical, they need hot water to survive, anything cooler than twenty degrees Celsius for a period of time will kill them. The temperature needs to be around twenty six or twenty seven degrees. Choosing a proper heater is essential when it comes to heating issues, if you buy a heater with too low voltage it will not substantiate a large tank, and a heater that has to high a voltage will only fry your fish! Always ask your fish shop staff what the best choice is for your tank.

How to Check the Water Temperature of an Aquarium

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Fish Tank Water Temperature How to Test Aquarium Water Temperature What Temperature Is Good for Freshwater Tropical Fish? How to Pick an Aquarium Chiller How to Heat a Saltwater Aquarium

One of the most important processes of taking care of your fish involves checking the water temperature of your tank. If the waters too hot or too cold, it can stress the fish and attract parasites, which may kill your fish. You need to pay special attention to the water temperature when youre changing the water in the tank. 1. Fill up a container with lukewarm water. You can use tap water to refill the water in your aquarium. Step 2 2. Use a a glass or plastic aquarium thermometer to check the temperature of the tap water youre using to refill the tank. Let it sit for a minute and then take the temperature reading. 3. Adjust the water until it reaches the current temperature of the water in the tank. You may need to add more hot or cold water depending on the current reading from the thermometer. After the temperature stabilizes, you can add it to the aquarium. Check the thermometer each day to make sure it stays in a safe temperature zone for the fish you have. You should have a thermometer in the aquarium at all times. You should check daily in case you have a faulty heater.

How to Control the Temperature of a Fish Tank

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To survive and live comfortably in a home aquarium, fish need their water to not only be cleaned on a regular basis, but also kept at the appropriate temperature to suit their living habits. Freshwater pond fish do not require a high temperature, while tropical fish prefer their water warmer. Saltwater fish require their environment to be even hotter.Furthermore, a sharp rise or fall in temperatures can shock fish and cause them stress or disease, which may kill

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them. Therefore, it is important to ensure the correct temperature in your fish tank remains consistent.Here are some ways to control the temperature in your aquarium.

Be aware of the changing room temperature!

Step 1 Ask a high-ranking worker at your local pet store what the correct temperature should be for your fish. In most cases, freshwater pond fish such as goldfish prefer to be in water around 52 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, give or take. Tropical fish, such as guppies or tetras, survive in temperatures of about 75 to 80 degrees, while saltwater fish, such as clown fish, thrive better in water that is about 78 to 83 degrees Fahrenheit. Step 2 Purchase and place an aquarium heater inside your fish tank if it is stocked with tropical or saltwater fish. Ask your pet store expert what size heater is best to suit your aquarium in terms of wattage and size. Step 3 Set your aquarium heater on the temperature you want your tank to maintain. To breed your fish, opt for about two or three degrees higher than the average temperature recommended for your fish. To help cure ick a disease that makes fish develop white spots and can kill them if left untreated raise the temperature. If you have a community tank, meaning that you have more than one species of fish, keeping you aquarium at the average temperature is best. Step 4 Attach a clip-on mini fan to the side of your fish tank and aim it on the surface of the water if the room temperature gets too hot as to raise the temperature of the water in the tank. This is a cheap and effective way of cooling your tank. Step 5 Buy and place a chiller inside your tank to cool your tank if you dont want to mess around with fans. Beware they are pricey and can cost several hundred dollars, depending on the size of the chiller. Professional fish hobbyists tend to prefer them

How to Heat a Saltwater Aquarium

by

Having the ability to accurately control the temperature of your saltwater aquarium is vital to the health of your fish. Fish are sensitive, particularly saltwater fish. Tropical fish typically require both a strict salt to water ratio, as well as very specific temperatures, otherwise the fish will not survive. This makes heating an aquarium one of the top priorities for anyone who maintains a saltwater aquarium. Instructions Step 1 The key element of keeping your saltwater aquarium at the right temperature is to select a good heating unit. But not just any heating unit will do. A saltwater aquarium will require a heater that is designed specifically for use in a saltwater environment. So your first step should be to read the label and packaging to see if the heater you are looking at is designed for use in saltwater or brackish water. Step 2 The next thing to consider is what style of heater you want. Aquarium heaters come in three standard styles. The first is the hanging heater. As the name suggests, it hangs over the side of the aquarium. The hanging heater is cheap, but is less efficient at heating the water since only part of the heating unit is under water. Heating Cable Systems is a type of heater where a cable is buried in the bottom of the aquarium, but this method is

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mainly used for freshwater aquariums with plants. The last style is the Submersible heater. This is the most efficient method, since the entire heating unit is under water. Step 3 Decide how many aquarium heaters you will need. While you can get by with one, you will find that you get better heat distribution if you use more than one heater, particularly if you have a large saltwater aquarium. At the very least, you should buy an extra heater to use as a backup. Step 4 Purchase the heater(s) of your choice and install them on your aquarium as described in the manufacturers instructions

How to Pick an Aquarium Chiller

by

The water temperature in a fish tank is vitally important. If it gets too hot or too cold, the fish in the tank can die. Regulating the temperature can be difficult especially if you live in a hot climate. Thats where an aquarium chiller comes in handy. Instructions Step 1 Consider the number of fish in the tank. More fish will generate more heat so if you have a lot of fish you might need a bigger aquarium chiller.

Step 2 Think about the size of the fish tank. A fish tank holding more water will take a bigger and more powerful aquarium chiller. For a smaller tank, use a smaller chiller. Step 3 Choose the cooling method. Drop-in chillers are ones you put directly into the water and let the coil cool the water temperature. With in-line chillers, aquarium water is run through the chiller and is pumped back into your tank or sump. An in-line chiller can be placed in a separate location from your fish tank. Step 4 Look at the temperature controls. A single stage temperature controller will run your chiller at the right temperatures. A dual stage controller, though, will regulate the temperatures of your chiller and heater. Step 5 Ask about a warranty. An aquarium chiller can be a significant expense so find one with a decent warranty. This is important for your wallet as well as the health of your fish

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How to Regulate the Temperature of an Aquarium

by

Maintaining a proper temperature for fish in an aquarium is crucial to their health. Most fish that are kept in home aquariums are tropical fish, which means they come from warm waters near the equator. If you do not regulate the temperature in the fish tank, you will put stress on the fish that can cause them to succumb to disease or die prematurely. The good news is that it is fairly easy to regulate the temperature of a fish tank. All you need is a little knowledge and a few simple tools. Step 1 Research the temperature needs of the fish you are keeping. Most fresh water tropical fish need a temperature of 77 to 83 degrees, while saltwater tropical fish need a temperature that is 76 to 82 degrees. Step 2 Install an aquarium heater and thermometer in the aquarium. See what the temperature of the water currently is and set the heater accordingly. Step 3 Watch the tank for 24 hours for fluctuations. Even if the fluctuations are within the safe range, huge changes in temperature can kill or stress fish. Step 4 If the temperature is dropping quite a bit at night, but staying within the safe range during the day, increase the temperature on the heater. Monitor the tank to make sure the temperature is not getting too hot after making this adjustment. Step 5 If the tank is getting too hot, place a fan near it that will blow across the surface of the water. Keep the room cool where the fish tank is. Step 6 Keep the fish tank out of direct sunlight. This can heat the water quite a bit and create dangerous temperature changes for fish.

What Temperature Is Good for Freshwater Tropical Fish?

by

So youve started an freshwater tropical fish aquarium. The decor is perfect, the water has been de-chlorinated and youre ready to buy some fish. But, wait! Have you checked the temperature of your aquarium water? If you add new fish and aquatic plants to an aquarium that is too cold, or too warm, you aquarium is less likely to thrive. Regular maintenance of aquarium water, including close attention to water temperature, will ensure that your freshwater tropical fish aquarium stays healthy.

Function
Freshwater tropical aquariums should be kept at approximately 77 degrees F for optimal fish health. Although tropical fish can survive in water ranging from 72 degrees F to 82 degrees F, it is best to hover around the 77 degree mark.

Types
There are a few ways to keep track of the water temperature in your freshwater aquarium. Floating thermometers roam the tank, giving a constant reading. Adhesive thermometers can be placed on the glass front of the aquarium for easy reading. Submergible thermometers may be suction cupped to the interior glass wall of the fish tank. Make sure the thermometer is not placed in an area that may be affected by sunlight. If the

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thermometer is warmed by the sun on a daily basis, you wont get accurate water temperature results. Avoid placing an aquarium near a window or door, where drafts may also affect the water temperature.

Considerations
Keeping your aquarium water warm enough for freshwater tropical fish is not difficult. The use of a special aquarium heater, that is submerged into the water, should do the trick. Heaters are rated on their heat output, and sold according to the size of aquarium they need to heat. When purchasing an aquarium heater, be aware of the size of the aquarium it will be placed in.

Misconceptions
Do not place your tropical aquarium in the sun to warm the water. The excessive exposure to sunlight will increase the amount of algae growth in the fish tank. Also, the sun cannot be regulated, and the water may get too warm, too quickly, and kill the fish or plants inside.

Identification Tropical fish aquariums that have water at the proper temperature will have clear water and be less likely to grow algae. The water shouldnt feel hot to the touch or have ice on top.The Fish tank plants
by

Aquarium Carpet Plants (1-10 cm)

Pygmy Chain Sword (Echinodorus tenellus) Dwarf Hairgrass (Eleocharis parvula) Glossostigma (Glossostigma elatinoides) Hemianthus Cuba (Hemianthus callitrichoides) Brazilian Micro Sword (Lilaeopsis brasiliensis) Crystalwort (Riccia fluitans) Willow Moss (Fontinalis antipyretica) Java Moss (Vesicularia dubyana)

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Small Aquatic Plants (1-20 cm)

Dwarf Anubias (Anubias nana) Afzeli Anubias (Anubias afzelii) Green Wendtii Crypt (Cryptocoryne wendtii green) Brown Wendtii Crypt (Cryptocoryne wendtii) Undulated Crypt (Cryptocoryne undulata) Willisii (Nevillii) Cryp (Cryptocoryne x willisii) Water Hedge (Didiplis diandra) Needle Spike Rush (Eleocharis acicularis) Pearl Grass (Hemianthus micranthemoides) Whorled/Marsh Pennywort (Hydrocotyle verticillata) Baby Tears (Micranthemum umbrosum) Windelovs Fern (Microsorum pteropus Windelov) Nanjenshan Rotala (Rotala sp. Nanjenshan) Water Cabbage (Samolus parviflorus)

Aquarium Carpet Plants (1-10 cm)

Pygmy Chain Sword (Echinodorus tenellus) Dwarf Hairgrass (Eleocharis parvula) Glossostigma (Glossostigma elatinoides) Hemianthus 'Cuba' (Hemianthus callitrichoides) Brazilian Micro Sword (Lilaeopsis brasiliensis) Crystalwort (Riccia fluitans) Willow Moss (Fontinalis antipyretica) Java Moss (Vesicularia dubyana)

Small Aquatic Plants (1-20 cm)

Dwarf Anubias (Anubias nana) Afzeli Anubias (Anubias afzelii) Green Wendtii Crypt (Cryptocoryne wendtii 'green') Brown Wendtii Crypt (Cryptocoryne wendtii) Undulated Crypt (Cryptocoryne undulata) Willisii (Nevillii) Cryp (Cryptocoryne x willisii) Water Hedge (Didiplis diandra) Needle Spike Rush (Eleocharis acicularis) Pearl Grass (Hemianthus micranthemoides) Whorled/Marsh Pennywort (Hydrocotyle verticillata) Baby Tears (Micranthemum umbrosum) Windelovs Fern (Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov')

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Nanjenshan Rotala (Rotala sp. 'Nanjenshan') Water Cabbage (Samolus parviflorus)

Medium Aquatic Plants (15-30 cm)

Giant Anubias (Anubias barteri) "Coffee Leaf" Anubias (Anubias barteri 'coffeefolia') Blyxa Echinosperma (Blyxa echinosperma) Blyxa Japonica (Blyxa japonica) African Water Fern (Bolbitis heudelotii) Cyperus helferi (Cyperus helferi) Porto Alegre Sword (Echinodorus portoalegrensis) Eusteralis (Eusteralis stellata) Broad Leaf Flame Ivy (Hemigraphis colorata 'broad leaf')

Brazilian Pennywort (Hydrocotyle leucocephala) Lobelia (Lobelia cardinalis) Golden Moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea') Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus) Whorly Rotala (Rotala wallichii) Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata) Lizard's Tail (Saururus cernuus)

Tall Aquatic Plants (31+ cm, thin)

Lilacina (Alternanthera reineckii var. lilacina) Bog Scarlet Hygro (Alternanthera sessilis var. rubra) Pink Ammannia (Ammannia gracilis) "Hairy" Bacopa (Bacopa lanigera) Dwarf Bacopa (Bacopa monnieri) Green Cabomba (Cabomba caroliniana) Chinese Ivy (Cardamine lyrata) Elodea (Egeria Densa) Stargrass (Heteranthera zosterifolia) Dwarf Hygrophila (Hygrophila polysperma) Sunset Hygro (Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig') Dwarf Ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora) Needle Leaf Ludwigia (Ludwigia arcuata) Narrow Leaf Ludwigia (Ludwigia repens x arcuata)

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Creeping Red Ludwigia (Ludwigia repens) Red Ludwigia (Ludwigia mullertii) Tilted Red Ludwigia (Ludwigia inclinata) Oval Ludwigia (Ludwigia ovalis) Glandular Ludwigia (Ludwigia glandulosa/perennis) Madagascar Lagarosiphon (Lagarosiphon madagascariensis) Mayaca (Mayaca fluviatilis) Brazilian Milfoil (Myriophyllum aquaticum) Western Milfoil (Myriophyllum hippuroides) Red-Stem Milfoil (Myriophyllum matogrossensis) Southern Waternymph (Najas guadalupensis) Gayii (Potamogeton gayii) Mermaid Weed (Proserpinaca palustris) Dwarf Rotala (Rotala rotundifolia) Giant Red Rotala (Rotala macrandra) Tonina (Tonina sp.) "Corkscrew" Val (Vallisneria spiralis var. tortissima)

Large Aquatic Plants (31+ cm, wide)

Madagascar Laceleaf (Aponogeton madagascariensis) Orchid Lily (Barclaya longifolia) Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides) Broad-Leaf Water Sprite (Ceratopteris cornuta) Eichhornia (Eichhornia azurea) Amazon Sword (Echinodorus amazonicus) Ruffled Amazon Sword (Echinodorus martii (maior)) Ozelot Amazon Sword (Echinodorus x. 'Ozelot') Giant Hygrophila (Hygrophila corymbosa)

Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis) Red and Blue Water Lily (Nymphaea stellata) Rubra Water Lily (Nymphaea sp. "rubra") Small-Flower Water Lily (Nymphaea micrantha) Banana Plant (Nymphoides aquatica) Tape Grass (Val) (Vallisneria spiralis)

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Floating Aquatic Plants

Duckweed (Lemna sp.) Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum) Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) Aldrovanda (Aldrovanda vesiculosa) Azolla (Azolla filiculoides) Floating Watermoss (Salvinia natans) Eared Watermoss (Salvinia auriculata) Asian Watermoss (Salvinia cucullata)

Pages in Preparation

(Comments & photo contributions welcome!)

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) Weeping Moss (Vesicularia ferriei)

Echinodorus tenellus
Pygmy Chain Sword
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

154

Photo Credit: Oliver Risteski

Eleocharis parvula
Dwarf Hairgrass
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

155

Photo Credit: Enrico Monteiro

Glossostigma elatinoides
Glossostigma
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: Alex Kawazaki Name: Glossostigma elatinoides Origin: Australia, New Zealand Care Average Gravel Rich Light Bright

156

Hemianthus callitrichoides
Hemianthus 'Cuba', HC
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: Reinaldo Uherara Name: Hemianthus callitrichoides Origin: Cuba Care Hard Gravel Rich Light Bright

Lilaeopsis brasiliensis
Brazilian Micro Sword
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

157

Photo Credit: Marcelo Drummond Name: Lilaeopsis brasiliensis Origin: South America Care Hard Gravel Rich Light Bright

Riccia fluitans
Crystalwort
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

158

Photo Credit: Rodrigo Krol Name: Riccia fluitans Origin: Cosmopolitan Care Medium Substrate None Lighting Bright

Fontinalis antipyretica
Willow Moss
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

159

Photo Credit: John Nakachima Name: Fontinalis antipyretica Origin: Cosmopolitan Care Easy Gravel None Light Low

Anubias nana
Dwarf Anubias
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: Raquel & Marcos

For sale online at:

Buy & receive at home! ->

Unattached

On Driftwood

Name: Anubias nana

160

Origin: West Africa Care Easy Gravel Rich Light Any

Anubias afzelii
Afzeli Anubias
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: Gianmarco Bertaccini Name: Anubias afzelii Origin: West Africa Care Easy Gravel Rich Light Any

Cryptocoryne wendtii 'green'

Green Wendtii Crypt
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

161

Photo Credit: Jos Boto Name: Cryptocoryne wendtii "green" Origin: Sri Lanka (Asia) Care Easy Gravel Rich Light Any

Cryptocoryne wendtii
Brown Wendtii Cryp
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: Matthius Lettington Name: Cryptocoryne wendtii "brown" Origin: Sri Lanka (Asia) Care Easy Gravel Rich Light Any

Cryptocoryne undulata
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Undulated Crypt, Alligator Weed

Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: Tula Top Name: Cryptocoryne undulata Origin: Sri Lanka Care Easy Gravel Rich Light Medium

Cryptocoryne x willisii
Willisii (Nevillii) Crypt
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

163

Photo Credit: Alex Kawazaki Name: Cryptocoryne x willisii Origin: Sri Lanka (Asia) Care Easy Gravel Rich Light Any

Didiplis diandra
Water Hedge
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: Enrico Monteiro Name: Didiplis diandra Origin: North America Care Hard Gravel Fertile Light Bright

Eleocharis acicularis
164

Needle Spike Rush

Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: John Nakachima

For sale online at:

Buy & receive at home! ->

Name: Eleocharis acicularis Origin: Cosmopolitan

Care Medium

Gravel Rich

Light Medium

Hemianthus micranthemoides
Pearl Grass
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

165

Photo Credit: Chuck Gadd Name: Hemianthus micranthemoides Origin: Central America Care Hard Gravel Rich Light Bright

Hydrocotyle verticillata
Whorled Pennywort, Marsh Pennywort
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

166

Photo Credit: Tula Top Name: Hydrocotyle verticillata Origin: North to South America Care Hard Gravel Rich Light Bright

Micranthemum umbrosum
Baby Tears
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

167

Photo Credit: Chuck Gadd Name: Micranthemum umbrosum Origin: Central America Care Medium Gravel Rich Light Bright

Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov'

Windelovs Fern
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: Raquel & Marcos Name: Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov' Origin: Domestic Care Easy Gravel None Light Low

168

Rotala sp. 'Nanjenshan' (Mayaca sellowiana)

Nanjenshan Rotala
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

Photo Credit: Gianmarco Bertaccini Name: Rotala sp. 'Nanjenshan' Origin: Southeast Asia Care Medium Gravel Rich Light Bright

Samolus parviflorus
Water Cabbage
Age of Aquariums > Aquarium Plants

Photos & Comments

169

Photo Credit: Raquel & Marcos Name: Samolus parviflorus Origin: South to North America Care Hard Gravel Rich Light Bright

Arulius Barb - Puntius arulius

Female

Arulius

Barb

Male Arulius Barb - Pictures by JJphoto.dk Common name: Arulius Barb, Tamiraparani Barb, Silas Scientific name: Puntius Synonyms: Barbus Size: 12 cm / almost pH: 6.0-

Barb, 5

Longfin

Barb arulius arulius inches 8.0

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Temperature: 19-25 C (66-77F) Hardness: tolerates most conditions The Arulius barb is a large fast moving barb. It originates from India where it is found in the Tambraparni River basin. This is a comparatively small river basin in the state of Tamil Nadu in southern India. Most if not all Arulius barbs in the trade today are farmed in commercial farms for the ornamental fish trade. It is possible that the species that we know in the trade as Puntius arulius isnt the true Puntius arulius. There are a number of similar species living in India and Sri Lanka all belonging to the so called P. filamentosus group. The group was revised in 2005 which resulted in some species earlier considered sub-species becoming true species. Species similar to Puntius arulius includes P. assimilis, P. exclamatio, P. filamentosus , P. singhala, P. srilankensis and Puntius tambraparniei. It is possible that the fish sold in trade as Puntius arulius in reality is one of these species. The true Puntius arulius is scientifically described as "lacking branched dorsal-fin rays elongated into filaments in adult males" and having short maxillary barbells. This does as you can hear not sound as the species we are use to in the trade. The fish that are sold as Pontius arulius in the trade are most likely Puntius tambraparniei. The true Puntius arulius are likely very rare in aquariums. All the species mentioned earlier can be kept in a similar way so the distinction is not overly important for the individual fish keeper as long as hybridization is avoided. If your species has an elongated dorsal fin rays and is bought as Arulius barbyou most likely have a member of the species Puntius tambraparniei.

Aquarium & care

The Aurulius barb is a very hardy species that will adapt to most aquarium conditions as long as the water quality is kept high. It does however show a more vivid coloration in aquariums that contain at least a few hiding places. The aquarium should ideally be decorated in such a way that there are areas with dense vegetation as well as open areas for this fast moving fish to swim around in. A few shaded regions among roots are also appreciated. Filtration is important when keeping Aurulius barb. The wild fish lives in streams and the Aurulius barb will therefore prefer a well circulated aquarium with oxygen rich water. This species is the ideal choice for any community aquarium containing mid-size species that appreciate the same environment. Aurulius barbs will not harm or harass fish that are too big to eat. They should however not be kept with timid species that might be spooked and/ or stressed by this fast moving species. Aurulius barb is a shoaling species and it should always be kept in shoals of 8 or more fish. If they are kept in smaller groups they will not feel secure and will not show their true colors. They might harass other fish species if kept in too small groups.

Feeding Arulius Barb

The Arulius barb is very easy to feed and will ferociously devour any food that is given to it. In the wild they are omnivores feeding on both meaty foods and plants. In aquariums their diet can be based around flake food as long as the diet also includes frozen and live food as well as vegetables. They will survive on flake food only but will not show their true colours and their immune system can also become weakened.

Sexing Arulius Barb

Adult males in spawning condition show white spots around the mouth. This can look like a disease but if the spots are focused around the mouth only it is probably just the spawning dress of this species. Arulius barb is harder to sex when dealing with younger fish and fish that arent ready to spawn. Males are however usually more colourful and more slender than the rounder and duller looking females.

Breeding Arulius Barb

Breeding the Arulius barb is easy. This is a large species and the breeding aquarium therefore needs to be quite large. I would recommend nothing smaller than a 20 gallon / 75 L aquarium. Cover the bottom of the tank with marbles or a mesh that protects the eggs from the hungry eyes of their parents. The aquarium should also contain fine leafed plants and java moss. If you dont want to use live plants you can use spawning mops. Dimmed lighting helps trigger spawning. The water conditions are not that important but neutral water (pH 7) and a temperature around 75 - 80F / 24-26 (27)C is ideal. This species can be spawned in pairs or in groups. If you want to spawn it in groups you condition the

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group in the breeding aquarium by giving them lots of live and frozen food. Remove the fish from the aquarium once you see eggs. If you want to breed the species in pairs you separate the males and females from each other and condition each group separately with plenty of live and frozen food. Once they are conditioned you choose one male and one female and move them into the spawning aquarium. It is advisable to choose the fattest female and the most colourful male. Remove the pair from the tank once spawning is completed. Arulius barbs do not show any parental care and will eat their own eggs and fry. Arulius barb eggs hatch after 24 to 48 hours. At really high temperatures they can hatch after 18 hours. The fry become free swimming about 24 hours after hatching. Arulius barb fry are every small and need to be feed infusorians during their first days. They should be large enough to accept newly hatched brine

Blue danio - Danio kerri

Blue danio - Pictures by JJphoto.dk Common name: blue danio Scientific name: Danio kerri Synonyms: Brachydanio kerri Size: 5 cm /2 inches pH:.5-7.0 Temperature: 22 - 25 C (73 - 77 F ) Hardness: 7 12 dH Lifespan: 6 years (usually only 2-4) The Blue danio is hardy little aquarium fish highly suitable for beginners. It is a friendly species that wont hurt or disturb anything that is too large to be eaten. They are a shoaling fish and should never be kept in groups of less than 6-8 specimens. An even larger shoal is better. This species is relatively common in the aquarium trade and you should be able to find it if you want it. The Blue danio was very popular in the old days due to its hardiness and due to the fact that it accepts colder water. This species still deserves our love and attention. The Blue danio originates from Asia where it is found on the Malay Peninsula. They live in clear streams and in pools surrounding these streams. Their typical environment contains a lot of open water and some plants such as cryptocoryne species, but they can also be found in more densely vegetated places. The Blue danio is ideal for community aquariums and can be kept with most other small species as long as those species dont get spooked by this active and fast moving species. Blue danios mainly stay near the surface but will go down to the bottom to find food. This is a very curios species and they will try to nibble on your arm hair or on your hands when you clean the aquarium to see if they can find something to eat. They show the same behavior in the wild.

Aquarium & care

The Blue danio requires very little from the fish keeper and will fit right into most setups as long as you avoid the extremes. You can to a large extent model the decoration after the need of your other fish species as long as you leave open areas for the Blue danios to swim in. If you want to take the preferences of the Blue danios into consideration you can include a few densely planted areas along the sides and the back of the aquarium. The Blue danio prefers clean well oxygenated water and good filtration is therefore important. You will often sea your danios playing in the strong current near the exhaust vent on the filter. Using an air pump to get a higher oxygen level in the water can also be a good idea if you keep a lot of fish and few plants in your tank. Blue danios like it when the morning light hits the aquarium but this can cause an algae problem unless you have creatures in the tank willing to eat algae. Moring light is not necessary for their well fare; they will thrive even without it.

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Feeding Blue danio

The Blue danio is very easy to feed and will accept just about any food. They can be kept and bred on high quality flake food alone but should preferably be provided with a more nutritious and varied diet. You can for instance use flakes as a base and supplement with both meaty foods (such as frozen and live mosquito larvae) and vegetables. Well fed fish will show more vibrant colours.

Sexing Blue danio

The Blue danio can be sexed in the same way as other danios, e.g. the Zebra fish. The males are smaller and more slender. The females are larger and much fatter. It is very easy to tell and adult male from an adult female.

Breeding Blue danio

The Blue danio is very easy to breed and they often spawn in community aquariums. It is however rare for any fry to survive. The species is an egg scatterer and do not carry out any type of parental care. They will eat their own egg and fry if they come across them. Blue danios are best breed in pairs in breeding aquariums receiving morning sunlight. The aquarium bottom should be covered with a mesh or two layers of marbles that allow the egg to fall through to protect them from the adults. The aquarium should also contain some fine leafed plants. It is often best to add the female to the breeding tank one day before the male. They usually span within 24 hours from the male being added. If not, it might help to lower the water temperature to trigger spawning. The fish should be conditioned with a varied diet before being used for breeding. To get the maximal amount of fry you separate females and males for a few weeks while conditioning them before using them for breeding. Remove the parents once spawning is completed. The fry becomes free swimming after roughly seven days and should be fed infusorians or other very small food. As they grow bigger you can switch to larger food such as newly hatched brine shrimp and later crushed flake food shri

Breeding Cherry Barbs

Background Information; Cherry Barbs are a small, colourful and very peaceful addition to any community tank. They spawn very easily by will scattering the eggs everywhere. They do not raise their fry and will eat the eggs and fry. Equipment 5-10g Heater Air Sponge Plastic 2-3 Air Lots Brine Adult Cherry Turkey Aquarium Optional; Needed; Aquarium Pump Filter Aquarium) Jars Stone Moss Eggs Shrimp ones. Bastor Salt Glass.

Canvas of Barbs, more Black

(Fit

to Java to

divide

is

Shrimp Brine better Background,

pick Magnifying

best

Before you start, you must be prepared to do; 3-5 Small Feedings a day. Daily 50% Water Changes. A home for all the Fry once they have grown up. Getting Ready. 1. Cycle your Sponge Filter in your Cherry Barbs established tank for one month in advance. 2. Fill your 5-10g Aquarium with water from your Cherry Barbs tank, add Sponge Filter, Heater (Set same as Cherry Barbs Tank) and Plastic Canvas down the middle

173

leaving

no

gaps

and

dividing your fish have Tank,

aquarium

into

two.

Selecting Choose 2-4 Adult Select the Males that Select the Add your Cherry Barbs to the

Fish. of mixed Sexes. the brightest Red/Pink colour. fattest Females. Females one side, Males the other.

Conditioning. You will need to Condition your Cherry Barbs for 1-2 Weeks feeding them regularly on Adult Brine Shrimp and Frozen Bloodworms. As well as daily 50% Water Changes. Culturing your Fry Food. (Infusoria) 2-3 Days before you release your Cherry Barbs together you will need to start a culture of food for your fry. Fill 2 Jars with an established Aquariums water or De-chlorinated Tap Water. Add a dried lettuce Leaf to each Jar and leave in a Sunny Window. The Spawn. Late in the evening, Turn all the lights out, remove the divider and add as much Java moss you have. Dont forget to check the females Size! Now sleep on it. The Next Day. When you wake up turn the Lights on, check the females size to see if they have spawned. If they are still the same leave the lights on leave for a couple more hours. Still havent spawned? Repeat the process again tomorrow.

When you wake up to slim female Cherry Barbs. Remove all the adults to their normal tank. The Fry. The eggs should hatch in the next couple days. The fry will be very small and hard to see, so dont get worried if you dont see the eggs or fry for up to a week later! 2 Days after the spawn start adding your Infusorians. Of which the Jar should look cloudy by now. If not use your other Jar. Squirt a bit in using your Turkey Bastor in small amounts as many times a day. When you get low start another culturein advance for when you finish your current jar. This is where a black background comes in handy. Once attached to the back. The fry are easy to see against it. When you first see them they will look like pink lines with 2 eyes. No bigger than 2mm long. Dont forget to keep up with Daily Water Changes! Bigger Fry! Once your fry get bigger you will have a general idea of how many you have. If you have too many to handle, dont feel bad about feeding a few to your adult Fish. It will leave less competition for food and more room for your other Fry giving them the best chance to survive. Soon enough your fry will be big enough to eat Baby Brine Shrimp, so we best get culturing some! Hatching Brine Shrimp. Get a jar and fill with an established Aquariums water or De-chlorinated Tap Water. Your Box of Aquarium Salt should say how much to use per Litre of water. After adding the salt Stir in really well. Now add your Air stone attached to an air pump and of course your Brine Shrimp Eggs. The eggs should hatch in 24 hours and feed just like you were with Infusoria.

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Congratulations!!! If you have gotten this far you have successfully Spawned and raised your First Egg layers Fry!!!

Celestial Pearl Danio

By: Tolley

Female Celestial Pearl Danio - Picture by fishalicious

Celestial Pearl Danios - Picture by fishalicious Scientific Name: Celestichthys Margaritatus (Previously Microrasboras sp. Galaxy) Common Name: Celestial Pearl Danio, Galaxy Rasboras, Fireworks Rasboras. Maximum Size: 2.5cm / 1 Inch Origin: Hopong, Myanmar (Burma) South-East Asia. Family: Cyprinidae (Carps and Minnows) Order: Cypriniformes (Carps) Class: Actinopterygii (Ray finned fishes) Temperature: 20-25c / 68-77f Ph Range: 6-8 Background: The Celestial Pearl Danio is still fairly new to the aquarium hobby. Being only discovered back in August 2006. It is thought that over collecting these fish nearly brought the fish to extinction in the wild although it has now been discovered that many populations of the species exist in very remote parts inaccessible to foreigners. When they first came into the aquarium trade they were in high demand, so the prices were very expensive though now they have slowly go down to around to an average of 3.00 ($6) per fish. Which is still quite costly for such a small fish. General: This fish has beautiful colours of a dark blue base colour covered in pearly spots along with bright red/orange fins. These amazing colours will show best against a planted aquarium with good lighting. They are very quick fish! Trying to get pictures of these fish is near enough impossible! They prefer to be kept in shoals of at least six fish to be generally happier and more active. They can be kept in small tanks, as they will not grow over 1inch long. But should not be kept in tanks less than 5 gallons. Celestial Pearl Danios have small stomachs so be careful not to overfeed, they will accept a wide range of foods and should be fed well on small quality foods such as micro pellets and absolutely love treats of live daphnia.

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Sexing and Breeding Celestial Pearl Danio: In a group sexing can be easy, the females will be overall duller coloured with more pale red fins. They will also be a bit fatter; even though these fish are generally chunky this can be easily seen when with males. The males with also have orangey stomachs and have black bars on the anal fin unlike the females. These fish can be bred quite easily much alike other cyprinidae species. Breeding would be very similar to this article.

Cherry Barb
Puntius titteya
Cherry barb information:
Scientific name: Puntius titteya Common name: Cherry barb Max. size: 5.0 cm / 2 inches pH range: 6.0 8.0 dH range: 5 19 Temperature range: 23 27C / 73 80.5F The Cherry barb is a very popular aquarium fish. It can be kept even by inexperienced aquarists since it is quite hardy. Its nice colour and interesting behaviour have also attributed its popularity within the hobby. If you keep shy loaches, you can add a shoal of at least 5 Cherry barbs and thereby make the loaches much less jittery in the aquarium.

Cherry barb habitat and range:

The wild Cherry barb is a benthopelagic species that live in tropical waters in Sri Lanka, from Kelani to the Nilwala basin. It prefers streams and rivulets that are well shaded by surrounding vegetation. The Cherry barb is typically found in shallow and slow flowing waters with silt substrate and plenty of leaf debris. Cherry barbs have today also been introduced to Colombia and Mexico.

Cherry barb setup:

The recommended minimum aquarium size is 75 litres (20 gallons). The Cherry barbs should always be kept in groups of at least five individuals, preferably more, since this is a schooling species. A Cherry barb that is kept alone can become very stressed in the aquarium. Try to mimic the shaded and densely grown habitat that wild Cherry barbs live in when you set up your aquarium. Preferably choose some plants that will grow up and cover the surface. A clear area for swimming should also be included. Comparatively sturdy plants are recommended since the Cherry barbs will nibble on them. They will also eat algae. Good filtration and a quite a strong current are recommended. Cherry barbs live in slow flowing waters in the wild.

Cherry barb tank mates:

The Cherry barb is a peaceful fish ideal for a community aquarium with other non-aggressive fish species that appreciate the same type of environment. It is naturally important not to house Cherry barbs with predatory species that will consider them prey. As mentioned above, a Cherry barb should always be kept together with at least 4 members of its own species. A school of Cherry barbs can be house with a wide range of docile fish species, such as Danios, Plecos, Bettas, Corydoras and Rainbow fish. Nippy fish species like the Tiger Barb should generally be avoided.

Cherry barb behaviour:

Cherry barbs should always be kept in groups, but they will not form really tight schools. Within the Cherry barb shoal, a strict hierarchy will be observed. If you keep more than one male, the males will compete with each other but rarely cause severe injury. Keeping two males in the same aquarium is actually highly entertaining since the males will dance in front of each other rather than simply fight. During the dance, the males will encircle each other whole displaying erect fins. Males will also become more vividly coloured when kept together with other males. The Cherry barbs are considered to be a middle-tank species, but they will often venture close to the bottom as well as swim up to the surface in the aquarium, especially if the surface is covered in bushy plants. The average Cherry barb life span is 4 years, but they can live up to at least 7 years.

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Cherry barb care:

Cherry barb picture. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk The preferred temperature range in the aquarium is 23 27 C (73 80.5 F). In the wild, Cherry barbs are found where the dH ranges from 5 to 19. Soft or medium hard water is recommended in the aquariums; from 4 dH to 15 dH. The recommended pH value is 6.5-7.5 since the Cherry barbs appreciate slightly acidic to neutral water. In the wild, they are found from pH 6 to pH 8. Never expose your Cherry barbs to rapid changes in temperature or water chemistry. Captive bred specimens are known to adapt to water conditions somewhat outside the recommendations if the changes are very slow and gradually.

Cherry barb feeding:

Wild Cherry barbs are omnivorous and feed on a wide range of food, including detritus, green algae, dipterans, diatoms and various animal matter. In the aquarium, Cherry barbs will usually accept most types of food. They can be kept on flakes or other forms of prepared food suitable for tropical fish, but it is also a good idea to supplement their diet with occasional treats in the form of vegetables, brine shrimp, daphnia, plankton, blood worm or similar.

Cherry barb sexing:

Sexing Cherry barbs are not difficult since the male feature a vivid, cherry-red colouration. (It is naturally from this colouration that the common name Cherry barb has been derived.) Female Cherry barbs are not as vividly coloured and will usually display a rather dull orange shade. Both males and females display a dark horizontal stripe along their body, but the stripe will be much more noticeable on the female fish since she is paler. You can also notice a difference in body shape between the two sexes. Males are generally more slender while the females tend to have fuller bodies. The male Cherry barb is also larger than the female.

Cherry barb breeding:

Wild Cherry barbs produce around 200 eggs that are scattered among plants. After one or two days, the offspring will hatch. After two more days, the offspring is free-swimming. Cherry barbs will readily spawn in captivity and a lot of the specimens in the aquarium trade are today captive bred. During the spawning period, the male Cherry barb will become even more vividly coloured than normally. Cherry barbs are egg scatterers and if the eggs are left in the aquarium, the adult fish will most likely eat least a good portion of them. Professional Cherry barb breeders will therefore usually arrange a separate breeding tank where the offspring can develop without the presence of adult fish. If you do not want to set up a separate breeding tank, you can increase the chance of fry survival by keeping the aquarium well planted. Choose plant species that provide a lot of hiding spaces, such as Java moss. The female Cherry barb will release her eggs among the plants and the offspring will instinctively hide among the plants until the young Cherry barbs are large enough to fend for themselves.

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Checkered barb - Puntius oligolepis

Checkered barb - Pictures by JJphoto.dk Common name: Checkered barb, checkerboard barb, island barb Scientific name: Puntius oligolepis Synonyms: Barbus oliogolepis, Capoeta oligolepis Size: 5 cm /2 inches pH: 6.0 -6 .5 Temperature: 20 - 25 C (68 - 77 F ) Hardness: 7 12 dH Lifespan: 8 years (usually only 2-4) The checkered barb is a small friendly fish that is prefect for any community aquarium with other small species that will not be disturbed by the lively demeanor of this fish. Male checkered barbs can often fight and it is therefore best to keep only one male with several females if you are keeping them in a smaller aquarium. In a larger aquarium you can keep several males and females, provided that the aquarium is properly decorated. This species originates from Asia where it is found in Indonesia; Sumatra and Malakka. The fish is found in river and lakes throughout its range. Different population shows small dissimilarities in coloration and size. Two color types are available in the trade. One has a more red color while the other has a more greenish hue to it. Most checkered barbs that are sold have been bred in captivity. This species have been introduced to Colombia where there are now established populations in the wild. It has also established itself in India.

Aquarium & care

The Checkered barb is a hardy species that can be kept in community aquariums with other small not too aggressive species. This species can be kept in most setups. Dense vegetation along the sides and back is appreciated but is not necessary and will produce a smaller benefit than in many other barb species. Dark bottom substrate and shaded areas can also be beneficial although not necessary. The most important thing to keep in mind is to create a lot of open area for swimming. They prefer clean well oxygenated water and a good filtrating system is highly beneficial.

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Feeding Checkered barb

The Checkered barb is just like most other barbs species omnivorous and very easy to feed in aquariums. They will happily accept most foods you give them and the basis for their diet can be flake food. They should however preferably be given a varied diet including both meaty live and frozen foods as well as vegetables. They will display more vivid colours if given a varied diet.

Sexing Checkered barb

The Checkered barb is very easy to sex. The males are more colorful and have black edges on their dorsal and anal fins. The females are less colorful, often rounder, and have yellowish fins without the distinct black edges seen in males.

Breeding Checkered barb

The Checkered barb is rather easy to breed and is best bred in pairs. Group spawnings often fail since the males fight rather than make love. It is important to keep this fish at colder temperature during a simulated winter if you want them to breed. They might breed without this colder season it is not very common. Fill a suitable sized breeding aquarium with somewhat acidic water (pH 6.0). The temperature in the aquarium should be kept near 26C (79F). A low water level, ideally 10-15 cm (4-6 inches), helps trigger spawning. The bottom of the tank should be covered with a mesh that protects the eggs from the parents as these will eat their own egg and fry. The aquarium should also contain fine leafed plants or spawning mops. Separate male and female barbs to condition them for spawning. After about 3 weeks of being separate the fish should be ready to spawn if they have been given a good and varied diet with a lot of frozen and live food. Choose the most colorful Checkered barb male and the fattest female for the spawning and move them to the breeding tank. The pair usually spawns the next morning in a plant chosen by the male. Sunlight that hits the aquarium can help trigger spawning. Remove the parents once spawning is completed. A spawning can result in up to 300 eggs. The fry hatch in 24-48 hours. Feed the fry infusorians as soon as they are free swimming and switch to newly hatch brine shrimp when they have become large enough to eat them. The fry grow very fast and can reach adulthood in 4-6 months

Dwarf rasbora - Boraras maculatus

Dwarf rasbora - Picture by JJphoto.dk Common name: Dwarf rasbora, Spotted rasbora Scientific name: Boraras maculatus Synonyms: Rasbora maculate, Boraras maculata Size: 2.5 cm / 1 inch pH: 4.5-6.5 Temperature: 75 79F/24 26C Hardness: 1 5H Lifespan: 3-5 years The Dwarf rasbora is a very peaceful species. It is a shoaling fish that always should be kept in groups of 8 fish or more. Larger shoals will result in more colorful and active fish. Dwarf rasbora is not suitable for community aquarium due to its very timid nature and small size. It will get stressed when kept with most other species. It is however suitable for aquariums with other very small and timid fish species and shrimps. The Dwarf rasbora is an excellent choice for aquascaped tanks where plants play the most important part.

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The Dwarf or Spotted rasbora originates from South Eastern Asia where it is found in Thailand, Peninsular Malaysia, and Singapore. There are also (less reliable) reports of this species being present on Borneo and Sumatra. It is widely distributed in Peninsular Malaysia while the other countries have more limited populations. Different populations from different countries have different colorations and patterns. In the wild, the Dwarf rasbora inhabits black water streams and rivers connected to peat swamps. It lives along fallen leaves and braches in dark water (the dark colour is caused by tannins). The water in these areas is usually very soft and very acidic. They are often found in areas that have a pH-value as low as 4.0. The habitat of this species is threatened by human development and farming. The Dwarf rasbora can be sensitive to changes in water conditions it is therefore important to allow acclimatization to take some time. This is true regardless of whether you just bough them or are moving them between aquariums at home.

Aquarium & care

The Dwarf rasbora can be kept in rather small aquariums. A 6 gallon / 30 L tank is enough for a small to medium sized shoal. The aquarium should be densely planted with floating plants on the surface to dim the light. You should also use bogwood and rocks to created shaded areas in which the Dwarf rasboras can seek shelter from the light and hide when frightened. Adding aquarium safe leaves on the bottom gives the fish more hiding places and creates a habitat more like the ones where they live in the wild. Leaves will also increase the chance of fry surviving in the holding tank. The bottom substrate is preferably dark soft sand. Filtration can be kept to a minimum. The Dwarf rasbora is a black water fish and appreciates if the bogwood and leaves stain the water with tannins. The water can be filtered through peat to increase tannin levels in the water and make the tank more similar to their natural habitat. Simulating their natural habitat will make the rasboras display more vibrant colors. It is important that the tank is well established before adding this sensitive fish.

Feeding Dwarf Rasbora

Dwarf rasboras are predators feeding on very small prey but they will easily adapt to accept flake food in aquariums. Flake food can be used as the basis for their diet but they need to be fed a varied diet including different types of live and frozen food as well to do well and show their best colours. A varied diet with a lot of frozen and live food is required to breed this species. Make sure to choose food that is small enough to suit this small species.

Sexing Dwarf Rasbora

Sexing Dwarf rasbora is not that hard. The females have rounder bellies and are (usually but not always) larger than males. The males show more intense colouring. This is especially true for dominant males.

Breeding Dwarf Rasbora

The Dwarf rasbora is not easy to breed in aquaria but not impossible either. It is a continuously spawning species where the female fish scatters a few eggs every day. They do not tend to their young. The fact that they lay a few eggs each day makes them ideal for permanent breeding aquariums; aquariums that have been designed to allow as many fry as possible to survive with the parents still in the tank. A few fry might survive in a well decorated aquarium even if no special concern has been taken to create a setup suitable for permanent breeding. Dwarf rasboras can also be breed in a more conventional way. Breeding them the conventional way produces more fry but also requires more work than a permanent breeding tank. If you want to breed the Dwarf rasbora the conventional way you need an aquarium that is no smaller than 2 gallon / 8 L (3 gallon / 12 L is better). The pH-value is best kept between 5 and 6, although up to 6.5 usually works. The water hardness should be below 5. You will not need any filter but if you want to use one you should choose one that isnt too strong. An air pump sponge filter is perfect. The bottom of the tank should be covered with mesh or similar to protect the eggs from the parents; something that the eggs can fall through to fall out of reach from hungry adults. Plastic grass tiles are known to work as an alternative to mesh. You should also add some fine leafed plants like java moss to the setup to make the adult fish feel more secure and to offer them a spawning medium.

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Once the aquarium is setup and the water parameters correct it is time to add two or three pairs of Dwarf rasbora to the tank. The pairs should be left in the tank for a couple of days and then be removed. The fry are very small and will need to be feed infusorians. They are usually large enough to accept newly hatched brine shrimp after 7-10 days and about a week after that they are usually large enough to accept mashed flake food. Do not perform water changes during the first two weeks as this can be to big a shock for the fry. This means that it is very important not to overfeed, since over feeding makes it difficult to maintain a high water quality

False Harlequin Rasbora, Lambchop Rasbora Trigonostigma espei

Lambchop Rasbora. Picture by JJphoto.dk Common name: Lambchop Rasbora, Espei Rasbora, Slim Harlequin Rasbora, False Harlequin Rasbora, Espes Rasbora Scientific name: Trigonostigma espei Synonyms: Rasbora espei, Rasbora heteromorpha espei Size: 4-5 cm / 1.8-2 inches pH: 5-7 Temperature: 73 82 F (23 28 C) Lifespan: 3-5 years The Lambchop rasbora or False harlequin rasbora is a small very friendly schooling fish perfect for any planted community aquarium with other friendly species. They roam the aquarium in loose schools without bothering any of the other aquarium inhabitants. It is a good companion to keep with small shrimp species. The Lambchop rasbora should not be kept with fast swimming or aggressive fish as this can cause them to become very timid. The Lambchop rasbora originates from south East Asia where it is mainly found in Cambodia and Thailand. This species is one of three species often confused with each other and sold under the wrong names. This situation is made even more confusing by the fact that the species share certain common names. The other two species are the Harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha) and the Glowlight Rasbora (Trigonostigma hengeli). Glowlight Rasbora and Lambchop Rasbora are both sold as False harlequin rasbora. It is possible to tell the species apart if you look closely. The Harlequin rasbora is higher (stalkier) than the other two species. It has a pink to bright red colour. The black spot is located close to the triangle on the back of the body and the spot as a blue hue to it. The Harlequin rasbora also has a larger triangle then the other two species. The Lambchop rasbora has a bronze pink colour. The Glowlight rasbora is butter coloured and has a faint orange line above its black spot. This line is not present in the Lambchop rasbora.

Aquarium & Care

The Lambchop rasbora is very hardy compared to other rasbora species and can be kept without much pampering as long as their basic requirements are met. Below you will find information on some conditions that you should try to meet to make you Lambchop rasboras feel more at home and make them show their best side.

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The aquarium should where you keep Lambchop rasboras should not be smaller then 10 gallon (50 L). Lambchop rasbora is best kept in a densely planted aquarium that contains both fine leafed and broad leafed plants. Dark substrate is to be preferred as this make the fish show a more vibrant red color, but any substrate will do. Make sure there are shaded areas in the aquarium where the fish can seek refuge from the light when resting. Roots and bogwood are recommended as it helps maintain suitable water conditions for this species but are not necessary if you manually maintain soft acidic water conditions. Lambchop rasboras should always be kept in schools and will do very poorly if kept alone or in groups of less than 6-10 individuals. The more specimens the better, provided of course that your aquarium is large enough to house them. It is important to cover the aquarium well as Lambchop rasboras are excellent jumpers and tend to jump to get away from perceived dangers or simply because they are excited about something. If there is a hole for them to jump out of the tank through, you can be sure they will jump through it sooner or later.

Feeding Lambchop Rasbora

The Lambchop rasbora is easy to feed as they are omnivores and will accept most food types. They do not but large demands on the owner and the diet can be based around a high quality flake food. They should be offered a varied diet that contain not live food and vegetable matter such as blanched lettuce. They will accept all live food that is small enough to be eaten. A good varied diet is required for this fish to breed.

Sexing Lambchop Rasbora

There is no sure way to sex Lambchop Rasbora based on external characteristics. It canhowever be said that males often are more brightly colored and that females often have a fuller rounder bodies. This is however by no mean certain indicators that a fish belongs to a certain sex. If you want to breed them you will have to use a school as broad stock to make sure that both sexes are present.

Breeding Lambchop Rasbora

The Lambchop or False harlequin rasbora is usually rather hard to breed. It requires soft to very soft acidic water to breed. A suitable breeding aquarium can be setup by covering the bottom of a tank with two layers of marbles and then adding a couple of plants to the tank. They use broad leafed plants to deposit their eggs. The adult fish should be removed from the tank once spawning is completed to protect the egg and fry. You will need to condition you Lambchop rasboras by feeding them live food a couple of weeks before you try to breed them. Dimming the light can help trigger spawning if needed. Lambchop Rasbora eggs and fry are very small and the fry can be hard to see with the naked eye. The fry need to be fed very small food such as infusorians and vinegar eels. After a while they will be large enough to accept crushed flake food and from this point on the fry are easy to raise.

Five banded barb - Puntius pentazona

Five banded barb - Picture by lahlumdi Puntius pentazona is known under several different names in English, such as Five Banded Barb, Fivebanded Barb, Five Band Barb, Fiveband Barb, Pentazona Barb, and Belted Barb. Puntius pentazona has not been evaluated for the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.

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Geographical range, habitat and habits

The Five banded barb lives in South-East Asia, from the Malay Peninsula to Sumatra in Indonesia. It inhabits calm lowland waters, such as stagnant pools and ponds. It appreciates black water with a pHvalue of 5-6 and a dH of 5-12. The water temperature normally stays within the 26-29C / 79-84 F range.

Size and appearance

The largest scientifically measured Five Banded Barb was 8.8 cm / 3.5 in. The Five Banded Barb has an elongated body with a high back and a pair of barbels. Compared to the size of the body, this fish is equipped with big eyes. The back colour varies from dark orange to olive brown, while the flanks sport an orange-brown colour. Throat and belly are white. Anal and ventral fins are red, and the other fins may have a hint of orange. The gill cover is red-orange. As the common name suggests, the Five Banded Barb is adorned with five transverse bands. The first band runs through the eye, while the last band is found close to the caudal peduncle. If you want your fish to display vibrant colours in the aquarium, you must keep the water quality up.

Five banded barb care

The Five Banded Barb is a shoaling fish and it should be kept in groups consisting of at least 5 individuals in the aquarium. It is not advisable to house this species in an aquarium smaller than 20 gallons / 75 litres. Do not use an aquarium shorter than 60 cm / 24 in. Ideally include floating plants in the set up since this species appreciates a covered surface. Providing cover becomes especially important if the aquarium is brightly lit. A dark substrate is recommended. It is important to include plenty of hiding spots, e.g. by using plants, rocks and roots. The Five Banded Barb is a peaceful fish, and unlike the Tiger Barb it is not fond of nipping the fins of other fish. It is suitable for peaceful community aquariums. Lively fish can make this species very shy and timid. This is a day active species. Keep the water temperature in the 26-29C / 79-84 F range. The water should be soft and a bit acidic, ideally with a water hardness of dH 5-12 and a pH-value around 5-6. The Five Banded Barb is quite vulnerable when introduced to a new aquarium and needs time to acclimatize itself. Once it has adjusted to its new home, it is a fairly sturdy species. Pay special attention to water values etcetera when you have a new Five Banded Barb in your tank.

Feeding Five banded barb

The Five Banded Barb is an omnivorous species that will accept most types of food. It needs both meaty and green food in the aquarium to stay healthy. Keep it on a varied diet, e.g. by combining flake food with live, fresh or frozen meaty foods. It is for instance fond of insect larvae and small crustaceans.

Breeding Five banded barb

Males are normally more colourful than females and their bodies are smaller and less plump. The Five Banded Barb is an egg scattering species. It has been successfully bred in aquariums but it is not considered an easy species to breed. If you want to breed Five Banded Barb, keep the levels of organic waste really low. The water should be soft, below 5 dH, and the pH-value should be kept in the 5.5-6.0 range. You can for instance use peat moss if your tap water is hard and alkaline. Decorate the aquarium with fine leafed plants. If you want to let the offspring stay with their parents, it is safest to include marbles in the setup to provide them with suitable hiding spots. The safest course of action is to remove the parents as soon as the eggs have been fertilized. Try to trigger spawning by feeding the couple flying insects and insect larvae. The actual spawning will typically last 1-1.5 hour. The female fish will release about 150-250 eggs which are sticky and stay attached to plants. You can expect the eggs to hatch within 30 hours and the fry to be free swimming 4-5 days after hatching. You can feed Five Banded Barb fry liquid fry food and infusoria. As they grow bigger, you can start giving them newly hatched brine shrimp. If you want any fry to survive into adulthood, you must keep the water quality at pristine levels. Do not carry out large water changes because the fry are easily chocked. mp

Glowlight Rasbora - Trigonostigma hengeli

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Glowlight Rasbora - Picture by JJphoto.dk Common name: Glowlight Rasbora, Hengel's Rasbora, Lamb Chop Rasbora, Glowing Rasbora, False Harlequin rasbora Scientific name: Trigonostigma hengeli Synonyms: Rasbora hengeli Size: 4 cm / 1.5 inch pH: 6.07.5 Temperature: 72-79 F (22-26 C) Hardness: 1 - 10 N Lifespan: 2-3 years The Glowlight rasbora is a beautiful little fish. It is a shoaling species that should only be kept in groups of 8 fish or more. They are hardy and more forgiving than many other rasbora species, which makes it an ideal first rasbora if you want to start keeping these small gems. The species is also comparatively disease resistant. Unfortunately, the Glowlight rasbora is rather rare in the trade. It can however be found in well stocked fish stores from time to time. They are faster swimmers than many other rasboras and can be kept in community aquariums with other small and friendly species. This species is one of three species that are often confused with each other and sold under the wrong names. This is not made any easier by the fact that the species share certain common names. The other two species are the harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha) and the Lambchop rasbora (Trigonostigma espei). This species and the lamb chop Rasbora are both sold as false harlequin Rasbora. It is possible to tell the species apart if you take a closer look at their colorations and patterns. The Harlequin Rasbora is higher (stalkier) than the other two species. It has a pink to bright red color. The black spot is located close to the triangle on the back of the body and the spot as a blue hue to it. The Harlequin Rasbora also has a larger triangle then the other two species. The Lambchop Rasbora has a bronze pink colour. The Glowlight Rasbora is butter coloured and has a faint orange line above its black spot. This line is not present in the Lambchop Rasbora. The Glowlight rasbora originates from Borneo, Sumatra, and Indonesia. In their native range they can be found in slow moving streams. They are usually found in very large shoals. Most of the fish in the trade is wild caught but so far the species seems to be coping well with the harvesting and is not endangered

Aquarium & care

An aquarium of at least 20 gallon / 75L is to be preferred when housing a school of Glowlight rasbora. It is a hardy fish and it will do well in most aquariums as long as they are not kept with large or aggressive tank mates. Ideal tank decoration includes dense vegetation along the sides and the back of the aquarium while still leaving some open area in the middle for the fish to swim in. A dark bottom substrate helps intensify the coloration of the fish. They prefer if there are a couple of shaded areas among bogwood and plants. Keep some bottom dwelling fish in the aquarium to help clean up food that sinks to the bottom as Glowlight tetras very seldom swims to the bottom and food that sinks to the bottom might otherwise be left there to pollute the water.

Feeding Glowlight Rasbora

The Glowlight rasbora is easy to feed as it is an omnivore that will accept most types of food. They will readily devour flake food and flakes can make the base of their diet. They should however be offered a

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varied diet that includes vegetables as well as frozen and live food. This will keep your fish in better condition than a diet of just flake food and will make them more colourful.

Sexing Glowlight Rasbora

The Glowlight rasbora is very very hard to sex. The females can be a little rounder but it is hard to tell and not a reliable way of sexing this species.

Breeding Glowlight Rasbora

The Glowlight rasbora is very hard to breed and has only been bred successfully a few times in aquariums. It can be bred in a similar fashion to other Trigonostigma species. Breeding this species require soft acidic water. The aquarium should be decorated with a mesh or marbles on the bottom that protects the eggs from being eaten by the parents. Include both wide and fine leafed plants in the aquarium. Introduce well conditioned fish to the breeding tank. (You condition the fish by feeding them a lot of live food.) The parents should be removed from the tank as soon as the spawning is finished. If your fish dont want to spawn you can try triggering a spawning by dimming the light. The eggs and fry are very small and can be hard to see. Feed your Glowlight rasbora fry infusorians to begin with. When they are about 10 days old they are usually large enough to start eating newly hatched brine shrimp. After another week or two they can be expected to have reached a size where they accept crushed flake food. If your fry have survived this long they are usually easy to raise from this point on. a

Gold Barb

Puntius semifasciolatus
Scientific name: Puntius semifasciolatus Common name: Gold barb, China barb and more. See detailed info below. Max. size: 7.0 cm / 2.8 inches pH range: 6.0 8.0 dH range: 5 19 Temperature range: 18 24C / 64 75F Gold barbs are active fishes that spend most of their time in the mid-level and bottom of the aquarium. They are popular among aquarists since they will add colour as well as activity to the aquarium. Since this is a shoaling species, you should always keep at least 5 specimens together. Golden barbs are peaceful and therefore ideal for a community aquarium with other docile fish species of similar size and environmental requirements. If you provide your Golden barbs with good care, they can live up to 4-6 years in captivity.

Gold barb common names:

Even within the English language, this species is known under a wide range of different common names. In the United States, it is commonly referred to as China barb, Halfbanded barb or Shuberts barb, while British English speakers prefer the name Chinese barb or Half-striped barb. In Honk Kong, the fish is known as the Chinese half-striped barb or Six-banded barb. The terms Gold barb and Shuberts barb are often used exclusively for a yellow version of this species, and the name Pontius shubertii is sometimes used as scientific name for this yellow colour variant.

Gold barb habitat:

The Gold barb is native to subtropical parts of South East Asia where the water temperature typically stays between 18 and 24 C (64 and 75 F). The benthopelagic Gold barb rarely swims below 5 metres. It is a freshwater species that primarily inhabits the Red River basin. The Red River flows from China's Yunnan province through Vietnam until it empties into the South China Sea. Wild Gold barb can also be found in Laos. Introduced Gold barb populations can today be found in Singapore as well as in Hawaii, U.S.

Gold barb description:

The Gold barb belongs to Cyprinidae, the minnow family, and is a medium long barb. The largest scientifically measured wild Gold barb was 7 centimetres (2.8 inches) long. The Gold barb body features a complete lateral line and the last simple dorsal ray is posteriorly serrated. The back of an adult Gold barb is highly arched. Just like the other barbs, the Gold barb is equipped with a pair of barbells. They are short and located at the corners of the mouth on the upper jaw.

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The Gold barb body is decorated with 4-7 narrow bars that tend to be dissociated into series of blotches and spots. The degree of dissociation varies from specimen to specimen. The sides of the Gold barb are of a beautiful metallic green or yellow green shade, with a golden or brassy lustre below. The back is light to reddish brown, while the belly is whitish. Today, you can also purchase an all-gold form of Puntius semifasciolatus. The female Gold barb tends to have duller colours than the male and she is also more bulky. During the breeding period, the bellies will loose their bland whitish colour and change into vivid orange-red in male Golden barbs.

Gold barb setup:

Gold barbs should always be kept in groups consisting of at least five Gold barbs. Group-living Gold barbs are much less stressed and much more active and entertaining single Gold barbs. The shoal will spend most of its time in the mid-level and bottom of the aquarium. The largest scientifically measured wild Gold barb was 7 centimetres (2.8 inches) long, but many aquarists have reported that their Gold barbs have grown larger than this in captivity. A 12 gallon aquarium is considered a minimum. The Gold barbs are very active and should be provided with plenty of swimming space. Try to mimic the natural Gold barb habitat when you decorate the aquarium. Add a lot of plants to the back and sides of the aquarium, but leave an area open for swimming. Strong aquarium light will make the Gold barbs look more brilliant and colourful. Since the Gold barb inhabits running water in the wild, it will appreciate currents in the aquarium.

Gold barb tank mates:

As mentioned above, Gold barbs should Goldbarb - Picture by Tolley never be kept in groups consisting of less than five Gold barbs. If you keep a smaller amount of Gold barbs, they can become stressed and shy and spend most of their time at the bottom of the aquarium. A group of Gold barbs on the other hand is highly active. A group of Gold barbs can be kept with most types of peaceful fish species of similar size, provided of course that they appreciate the same conditions. Some timid fishes can be a little scared of the active and vigorous Gold barbs, but the presence of Gold barbs can also serve to make shy fishes more relaxed. If the Gold barbs can swim around like that without begin devoured, their can be no danger present in the aquarium, right? Gold barbs have been successfully kept with other Asian species such as the Opaline Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) and the Paradisefish (Macropodus opercularus). You can however also combine it with species from other parts of the world, e.g. the common Platy (Xiphophorus maculatus), the Bristlenose Catfish (Ancistrus dolichopterus) and the Neon Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia praecox). Gold barb care: The Gold barb is a hardy fish that can be kept even by beginner aquarists. It can endure a pH from 6 to 8, but neutral or acidic water is preferred. Ideally keep the pH as close to 6.8 as possible. The Gold barb will usually tolerate a water hardness of 5.0 - 19.0. Soft to moderately hard water is preferred, and the ideal dGH is 8. The recommended water temperature is 18 24 C (64 75 F), but most Gold barbs will survive a drop down to 17 C (64 F). Since Gold barbs appreciate a temperature range that is slightly below that of most tropical species, it is often kept in unheated indoor aquariums.

Gold barb feeding:

Wild Gold barbs feed on plant matter, detritus, insects, worms and crustaceans. In captivity, they are usually happy eaters that accept a wide range of food. You can for instance use a high quality tropical flake food as a base, and supplement it with frozen or live worms, and boiled vegetables such as zucchini. Since the Gold barb is an opportunistic omnivore it is important that you provide it with a varied diet.

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Gold barb breeding:

Gold barbs are prolific in the wild and have a minimum population doubling lower than 15 months. They can spawn several times a year. The Gold barb is an egg-scattering species and roughly one hundred eggs are released during each spawning. The eggs will be released when the fish notice the first signs of sun beams in the early morning. If you want to breed Gold barbs, it can be a good idea to set up a special breeding aquarium. Since Gold barbs are egg-scatterers that do not engage in parental care, they may very well eat their own eggs and fry. Sexing gold barbs are not hard, since the female will have a bulkier body than the male and display a duller body colouration. During the breeding period, the male Gold barb will display an orange-red belly. A breeding aquarium should be at least 60 centimetres (24 inches) long, since the male will court the female quite violently during the breeding period. He will swim around her in circles and push her around with his mouth open. He will also strike her with his tail and try to force her to swim to a planted part of the aquarium where the eggs can be released. Just as in the wild, the eggs will be released when the water becomes light after the night. When the eggs have been released and fertilized, you should remove the parents from the breeding aquarium to ensure high fry survival. The eggs are of a yellowish shade and will hatch within 1 or 2 days. After a few more days, the fry will be free swimming and can be fed rotifers and newly hatched nauplii. If you do not want to set up a separate breeding aquarium, you can instead keep the ordinary aquarium densely planted and include a lot of bushy plant species that will provide good hiding spots for fry. A lot of eggs and fry will still be eaten, but just like in the wild a few will survive by staying hidden among the plants. The typical life span for captive Golden barbs in well kept aquariums is 4-6 years.

Golden barb, Geli barb - Puntius gelius

golden barb - Picture by JJphoto.dk Common name: Golden barb, Scientific name: Synonyms: Barbus gelius, Size: 5-6 pH: Temperature: 21 - 25 Hardness: Lifespan:

Geli

barb, Cyprinus cm 6-7 C 6 - 14 2-3

Dwarf barb, Golden dwarf Puntius gelius, Systomus / 2 - 2.5 ( 70 - 77

barb gelius gelius inches (7.5) F ) N years

The Golden barb is also known as the Geli barb and is sometimes also called Dwarf barb due to its limited size. It is a friendly species highly suitable for aquariums with other small barb and rasbora species. The Goden barbs originate from Bengal in central India were they are found in calm slow moving waters. The Golden barb is often confused with the Gold barb. The two species have very different appearance and size but are confused with each other due to the similar names. The Golden barb can be kept in small aquariums. It is a shoaling species that should be kept in shoals of at least 8-10 individuals. If kept alone or in smaller groups the fish will never reach its full potential.

Aquarium & care

The Golden barb is a somewhat sensitive species and is only suitable for well established aquariums. The aquarium should be covered in a dark soft substrate. Ideal substrates include peat. The peat will also

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help maintain the water parameters the Golden barb prefers. Make sure that the other fish species you keep like the same water values. The aquarium should be decorated using roots and cryptocoryne plants or other similar plants. The water should be soft and acidic. Only low filtration is needed when keeping this species.

Feeding golden barb

The Golden barb has a very small mouth and all food need to be chosen with that in mind. They prefer live and frozen food but will often accept flake food and other dried foods as well. It is important to give them a varied diet that includes vegetables. The diet can be based around flake food but should include a lot of frozen and live food as well. This species like to eat soft algae.

Sexing golden barb

It can be hard to sex the Golden barb but the males usually have a more pronounced copper colour in the vertical stripe and are usually more slender then the females. The females are often a bit rounder than males and often somewhat larger as well.

Breeding golden barb

The Golden barb is a little more challenging to breed than many other barbs but can not be said to be hard to breed. Separate male and female golden barbs into different tanks and condition them to spawn by giving them a lot of frozen and live food. Prepare a small breeding aquarium with a mesh that prevents the parents from eating the eggs. The water level in the breeding aquarium should only be 15 cm / 6 inches. A few fine leafed plants and some java moss can help put the barbs into spawning mode. The water in the breeding aquarium should be soft and pH 6-6.5. Keep the water temperature in the middle of their preferred range. It is important to not use too warm water when breeding this species as a lot of the eggs remain unfertilized in temperatures that are too high. During spawning, the eggs are scattered over the substrate. The parents should be removed after spawning as they will eat the eggs and fry. Each spawning produces about 70-100 egg. Small fry will emerge from the eggs after 24 hours and can be feed infusorians and, after a week or so, newly hatched brine shrimp. Only use adult specimens more than 2 years of age to breed this species. If younger fish are used the offspring quickly degenerates and the fry will never reach the size of the parents. It is also important to introduce new fish into the breeding pool ever so often to avoid inbreeding

Green Barb
Puntius semifasciolatus

Green barb - Copyright www.jjphoto.dk Scientific name: Puntius semifasciolatus Common name: Green barb Max. size: 7.0 cm / 2.8 inches pH range: 6.0 8.0 dH range: 5 19 Temperature range: 18 24C / 64 75F The Green barb is a lively fish that will add activity and colour to the mid-level and bottom part of the aquarium. Green barbs are non-aggressive and will do fine in community aquariums with other peaceful

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species of similar size. Always get at least 5 Green barbs, preferably more, since this is a schooling species that will become stressed and shy if kept alone or in really small groups. When well cared for, a Green barb can reach an age of 4-6 years in captivity.

Green barb habitat:

The Green barb is a colour variant of Puntius semifasciolatus, a barb native to subtropical parts of South East Asia. Your Green barbs will therefore appreciate a water temperature in the 18 -24C (64-75F) range in the aquarium. The native habitat for Puntius semifasciolatus is the Red River basin and freshwaters rivers and streams in Laos. The Red River originates in the Yunnan province in China, flows through Vietnam and empties into the South China Sea. Today, you can find introduced Puntius semifasciolatus populations in other parts of the world as well, including Singapore and Hawaii, U.S.

Green barb description:

The Green barb is a medium long barb of the minnow family (Cyprinidae) and the biggest scientifically measured Puntius semifasciolatus had attained a length of 7 cm (2.8 inches). This fish has a complete lateral line, a posteriorly serrated last simple dorsal ray and a highly arched back. Just like its relatives, the Green barb has a set of highly sensitive barbells that is can use to navigate and search for prey in murky waters. The barbells are fairly short and positioned at the corners of the mouth on the upper jaw.

Green barb setup:

As mentioned earlier, Green barbs should always be kept in schools consisting of at least 5 specimens, preferably more. Even though wild Puntius semifasciolatus stay fairly small, captive specimens can grow much bigger than the 7 cm reported from the wild. You must therefore have a big enough aquarium to house them in and a 50 L aquarium is considered an absolute minimum. Green barbs are active and need a lot of swimming space. They will also need spots to hide in and adding plants is recommended since their native habitat is densely grown. Since they hail from fast rivers and streams, Green barbs are fond of some current in the aquarium.

Green barb tank mates:

If your aquarium is big enough, you can combine a school of Green barbs with a wide range of other peaceful fish species of similar size, provided that they like the same water quality and temperature. Examples of species known to work well with Green barbs are Platy (Xiphophorus maculatus), the Bristlenose Catfish (Ancistrus dolichopterus) and the Neon Rainbowfish (Melanotaenia praecox). If you want to stick to Asian species, you can for instance pick Opaline Gourami (Trichogaster trichopterus) and Paradisefish (Macropodus opercularus). Really timid fish can sometimes be a little scared when a sturdy, active school of Green barbs swims by, but Green barbs can on the other hand function as relaxing dither fish as well since they are so at ease as soon as they are kept in a big enough school.

Green barb care:

Caring for a Green barb is not difficult because it is very sturdy as long as it is kept in a school. If kept alone, the stress can make it prone to disease. Green barbs are known to tolerate a pH-value between 6 and 8, but neutral or slightly acidic water (pH 6.5-7.0) is recommended. Soft or medium hard water is best, ideally around 8 dGH. Most Green barbs will however adapt to conditions from dGH 5 to 19. The water temperature should be in the 18 24 C (64 75 F) range. This is somewhat lower than most tropical species.

Green barb feeding:

In the wild, Puntius semifasciolatus sticks to a varied diet that consists of detritus, plant matter, worms, insects and small crustaceans. It will therefore need a varied diet in the aquarium and must be given vegetable based food as well as meaty treats. You can for instance use high quality tropical flake food as a base and give your Green barb regular treats in the form of worms, adult brine shrimp, and boiled eggplant.

Green barb breeding:

Puntius semifasciolatus is a prolific creature in the wild; it can spawn several times per year and its minimum population doubling time is less than 15 months. It is an egg-scattering species where the female produce huge quantities of eggs each spawning.

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Breeding Green barbs in aquariums is not very difficult, but you need to set up separate breeding aquarium since the adult fish might eat their own offspring if you leave them with their eggs and fry. A Green barb breeding aquarium should be at least 60 cm (24 inches) long and contain a lot of hiding spots since the male can be rather violent towards the female during the courting process. Parts of the aquarium must be densely planted. You know that your couple is getting ready to breed when the male starts to circle the female with his mouth open. He will push her around a lot, strike her with his tail and try to force her into a planted part of the aquarium. This period can be very tiring for her. Spawning will normally take place at sunrise. As soon as the eggs have been released and fertilized, it is time for you to catch the parents and remove them from the breeding aquarium to avoid cannibalism. Green barb eggs are normally yellowish and will hatch within 2 days. The fry will be free swimming within a few more days and can be feed tiny food, such as rotifers and newly hatched brine shrimp.

Harlequin rasbora - Trigonostigma heteromorpha

Harlequin rasbora - Picture by JJphoto.dk Common name: Harlequin Rasbora, Red Rasbora, Harlequin fish Scientific name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha Synonyms: Rasboraheteromorpha Size: 5 cm / 1.75 in pH: 5.07.0 Temperature: 22 to 25C (73 to 82 F), tolerates up to 28C (82.4F). Hardness: 1 - 10 N Lifespan: 5-6 years The Harlequin rasbora is a common and fish stores. It is a small and friendly fish friendly species. It should not be kept variations of this species in the trade: popular aquarium fish that can be found in most well stocked that can be kept in community aquariums with other small and with small and/or aggressive fish. There are three common the normal wild type, the black type and the golden type.

The Harlequin rasbora originates from Thailand, Eastern Sumatra and the Malaysian Peninsula where they live in rivers and streams located in peat forests. They are typical blackwater fish that prefers soft and acidic water. It is a shoaling fish that should be kept in a shoal of 8 or more fish. This species is one of three species that are often confused with each other and sold under the wrong

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names. The other two species are the Glowlight Rasbora (Trigonostigma hengeli) and the lamb chop rasbora (Trigonostigma espei). The Glowlight rasbora and the lamb chop Rasbora are both sold as false harlequin Rasbora which should tell you how similar to this species they really are. It is possible to tell the species apart if you take a closer look at their colorations and patterns. The Harlequin Rasbora is higher (stalkier) than the other two species. It has a pink to bright red colour. The black spot is located close to the triangle on the back of the body and the spot as a blue hue to it. The Harlequin Rasbora also has a larger triangle then the other two species. The Lambchop Rasbora has a bronze pink colour. The Glowlight Rasbora is butter coloured and has a faint orange line above its black spot. This line is not present in the Lambchop Rasbora.

Aquarium & care

The Harlequin rasbora is one of the hardiest rasbora species kept in aquariums and it will adapt to a variety of different conditions. It is however best kept in pH 6-7.8 and the water should be soft to medium hard (max 15dH). The species has much more particular water preferences if you want it to breed. It is a black water species and prefers water that has been filtrated through peat although this is not mandatory. Low filtration is enough for this species but it tolerates more powerful filtration than many other rasbora species. Use enough filtration to keep the water clean. The aquarium where you house your Harlequin rasbora should be densely planted along the sides and back while leaving open areas in the front for the Harlequin rasboras to swim. They seem to prefer plant species that are found in their native water such as Cryptocoryne and Aponogeton species, but other similar species will do as well. They will need broad leafed plants to spawn. You are free to use other plants as well as long as plants of this type are included in the decoration. Use plants and bogwood to create shaded areas where the fish can seek refuge if spooked and to rest. Just like many other rasbora species, the Harlequin rasbora prefers dimmed light and a few floating plants on the surface in the open area is therefore a good idea. A dark bottom substrate is recommended. As mentioned above, this species should always be kept in groups consisting of at least eight specimens, preferably more.

Feeding Harlequin Rasbora

The Harlequin rasbora is easy to feed and will usually accept most food types including flake food when kept in aquariums. It is important to give them a varied diet consisting on frozen and live food as well as vegetables. The basis of their diet can be flake food but they should not be fed flake food exclusively.

Sexing Harlequin Rasbora

The Harlequin rasbora can be hard to sex but the females are usually a little bit larger and rounder than the males. The males are usually smaller and more slender. It is however hard to say for sure using this method. What looks like a male can be a small unconditioned female and what look like a female can be a fat male.

Breeding Harlequin Rasbora

The Harlequin rasbora is a hard species to breed. It requires very soft acidic water. The water hardness should not be higher than 1.5 to 2.5 (4) DH when trying to breed this species. The pH-value can be kept around 6.0 and the temperature should be at 28C (82.4F). Unlike many other rasbora species the Harlequin rasbora is not an egg-scatterer; it will deposit its eggs on the underside of a broad leaf. In the wild it is usually a cryptocoryne leaf. The spawning usually takes a long time and they might spawn for days before mating finally takes place. The eggs are deposited 612 at a time and a total of up to 300 eggs can be deposited. A typical mating results in 80-100 eggs. Once fertilization has taken place you will need to remove the parents as they will eat their own eggs and fry. When the parents have been removed the water level should be lowered to 10-15 cm (4-6 inches), unless this would not put any eggs above the water line. Harlequin rasbora eggs hatch after 18-36 hours and the offspring will become free swimming 3-5 days after that. The fry are 3 to 4 millimetres long and need to be feed infusorians or other small food. They will be large enough to accept newly hatched brine shrimp after 7-14 days. The fry grows rather quickly, much quicker than many other rasbora species. The fry will look as miniature adults after 8-10 weeks. f

Odessa Barb
Scientific name: Ticto name: barb, Puntius barb ticto

Puntius ticto
Common Odessa

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Max. size: 10.0 cm / 4 inches pH range: 6.5 7.0 dH range: 10 Temperature range: 14 22C / 64.5 71.5F The Odessa barb is a beautiful aquarium fish, but less well known than its famous barb relatives like the Cherry barb and the Rosy barb. The Odessa barb can still be tricky to find in ordinary pet stores and you might have to visit a fish auction, contact a breeder directly or purchase them over the Internet.

Odessa barb habitat and range:

The Odessa barb is a benthopelagic and potamodromous freshwater species native to South East Asia; from the Himalayas to Thailand. Its native region include Bangladesh, Bhutan, China, India, Laos, Myanmar (Burma), Nepal, Pakistan, Sri Lanka and Thailand. Odessa barbs live in the upper Mekong, Meklong, Irrawaddy and Salween, as well as in the upper parts of the Chao Phraya basin. The typical Odessa barb habitat consists of still and shallow marginal water in rivers and streams. The bottom is often muddy and the Odessa barb spends a lot of time browsing near the substrate in the shallow water.

Odessa barb description:

Odessa barbs typically reach a length of 5-7.5 centimetres (2-3 inches), but can grow up to 10 centimetres (4 inches). There are no noticeable size difference between males and females, but the males have slimmer bodies. The Odessa barb has a light brown body colour and the sides of the fish are decorated with two black spots. The black spots are more distinct in males. Both sexes can display red-brown banding. In sexually mature males, the red-brown band will turn into a thick bright red band that starts at the tip of the mouth, proceeds through the eyes and continues down the side to the tail. During the breeding period, it is also common for the male to display more intense body colouration than normally.

Odessa barb setup:

Odessa barbs should always be kept in groups consisting of at least 5 Odessa barbs, preferably more. Keeping fewer Odessa barbs will usually result in very shy fish that spend most of their time hiding or sitting at the bottom of the aquarium. The stress from being alone can also weaken the immune system of the Odessa barb and make it more prone to illness. The aquarium where you keep your Odessa barb group should be at least 60 centimetres (24 inches) in length. Try to mimic the natural Odessa barb habitat when you set up the aquarium. The wild Odessa barbs inhabit still, marginal water of rivers and streams in South East Asia. A well planted aquarium is recommended, but an open area for swimming should also be included in the set up. Compared to tropical fish species, the Odessa barbs are used to rather cold water temperatures; from 14 to 22C (64.5 71.5F). They are therefore suitable for unheated indoor aquariums.

Odessa barb picture. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Odessa barb care:

he Odessa barb will do best when you keep the water neutral or slightly acidic and the ideal pH range is 6.5 7.0. When it comes to water hardiness, the recommended dH is 10. As mentioned above, Odessa barbs appreciate rather cold temperatures and the preferred temperature range is 14 22 C (64.5 71.5 F).

Odessa barb feeding:

Wild Odessa barbs are omnivore and feed on plankton, insects and crustaceans. In the aquarium, they are usually very happy eaters as long as they are healthy. They will accept most types of food. You can for instance use a high quality tropical flake food or granules as a base, and give your Odessa barbs occasional treats in the form of live, freeze-dried or frozen worms, shrimps, daphnia etcetera. Beef heart is also appreciated.

Odessa barb breeding:

The wild Odessa barbs a highly prolific and has a minimum population doubling time of less than 15 months. The Odessa barbs are egg scatters and they do not engage in parental care. Approximately 150 eggs will be released in batches of roughly 20 at a time. After one day, the eggs will hatch. The fry will be then become free swimming within 24 hours. If you want to breed Odessa barbs in captivity, you should ideally keep them in a well planted aquarium. As mentioned above, they are egg-scatterers that do not raise their young, and they will therefore not hesitate to eat their own eggs and/or fry in the aquarium. If you want to ensure a high fry survival, you can set up a special fry raising aquarium and remove the adult fish after spawning. If you do not wish to arrange a separate aquarium, you can let the Odessa barbs spawn in their normal aquarium but make sure that it is very densely planted with bushy aquatic plant species that will create a lot of hiding spots for the young Odessa barbs. Java fern is one example of a suitable plant. A lot of eggs and fry will still be eaten, but at least a few specimens will usually survive into adulthood. During the spawning, the male and female Odessa barb will swim to a planted part of the aquarium and the female will scatter the eggs among the plants. It is common for Odessa barbs to spawn during the early morning. The female will release around 20 eggs, the male will fertilize them, and the female will proceed to lay yet another batch of roughly 20 eggs. This will continue until around 150 eggs have been released and fertilized; a process which can take several hours As mentioned above, Odessa barb fry usually hatch after one day and become free swimming the next. When they have become free swimming, you can start feeding them newly hatched brine shrimp. Even though the fry is small at this stage, they can usually manage to devour newly hatched brine shrimp. As the fry grows larger, you can feed them bigger and bigger brine shrimp. If you keep your Odessa barb fry on a nutritious diet and keep the water quality up, they will grow really fast. The two distinctive spots will start forming when they are no older than a month.

Red-Striped Rasbora -Rasbora pauciperforata

Text and pictures by: Callum Mackintosh

Red-Striped Rasbora Name: Size: Temperature: Origin:

Red-Striped 5.5 Malaysia 24-28'c. and

Rasbora. cm Sumatra

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pH: 6.8-7.0. Minimum tank size: 15 gallons The Rasbora pauciperforata, or Red-striped Rasbora, has to be one of the best Rasbora species I have kept. This sleek and streamlined fish loves a habitat of a planted aquarium that imitates its homeland environment of streams, rivers and lakes of Malaysia and Sumatra. For housing these fish, I would suggest a minimum size aquarium of 15 gallons because of their shoaling tendencies, which like to have a school of around 5 or more individuals. To make them feel at home in the aquarium be sure to have it well planted with aquatic plants, and use logs and rocks as decorations to imitate its homeland environment. Advisable size tank mates for this Rasbora would be most fish that are peaceful and grow to around 5.5 cm. I have my 7 Red-striped Rasboras in a 48 gallon planted Asian tropical community aquarium. This variety of Rasbora has to be the best looking Rasbora I have seen. The red stripe of this Rasbora is very stunning. A neon style red line runs from its snout to the beginning of the caudal fin, displaying a clear silvery body, with its internal organs being visible. I find the Red-striped Rasbora not fussy about food. Actually, it really darts at any food I give them. I feed my Red-stripe Rasbora a diet of JBL Staple Flake Food. I also supplement their diet with frozen brine shrimp. So, from past experience, I would say this fish would be very good for a beginner to start with. One time I forgot to plug the heaters in, and three days later the temperature was around 10 degrees Celsius. While the other fish felt the effects rather dramatically, these tough little fellows lived on as if nothing had ever happened ter

Rosy Barb

Puntius conchonius
Rosy barb information:
Scientific name: Puntius conchonius Common name: Rosy barb Max. size: 14.0 cm / 5.5 inches pH range: 6.0 8.0 dH range: 5 19 Temperature range: 18 22C / 64.5 71.5F (Will accept higher temperatures but 18 22C / 64.5 71.5F is preferable) The Rosy barb is hardy and stays relatively small. These two factors, combined with its peaceful temperament and attractive colouration, has made it a very popular aquarium fish that can be kept even by novice aquarists with comparatively small aquariums. The Rosy barb has been popular in the aquarium hobby for several decades and will most likely continue to be so in the future. It is not difficult to breed in captivity and a lot of the specimens in todays aquarium trade are captive bred. The sturdy Rosy barb can also be kept as pond fish.

Rosy barb habitat and range:

The Rosy barb is a benthopelagic species that inhabits subtropical parts of Asia. It is native India, Bangladesh, Nepal, Pakistan and Afghanistan. It might also be present in Burma (Myanmar). The Rosy barb has been spread to other parts of the world by man, and established populations of Rosy barb can today for instance be found in comparatively nearby Singapore and Australia, but also in Colombia, Mexico and Puerto Rica in the Americas. The natural habitats for wild Rosy barbs are lakes and fast flowing stream; they are often found in hilly landscapes where the water runs fast.

Rosy barb common names:

The Rosy barbs are known by many different names in its native region. In multi-languaged India, it is for instance referred to as Khavli in Marathi, Puthi in Assamese and Chikka karsae or simply Karse in Kannada. In Nepal, the Rosy barb is called Pothia sidre and in Bengladesh, the Bengali speaking population has named this species Kanchan punti.

Rosy barb description:

The Rosy barb is appreciated by aquarists due to its charming colouration. The female Rosy barb is silver coloured with a red tinge, and the male Rosy barb will change from silver to rich claret flush during the breeding period. The female will also change during the breeding period and her look becomes more

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luminous. Both male and female Rosy barbs have black decorations on their fins; a feature that creates striking contrasts against the rest of the body colouration. Some Rosy barbs also display black markings on their sides. Female Rosy barbs tend to grow larger than male Rosy barbs. There is a long-finned variety of Rosy barb available for aquarists.

Rosy barb setup:

Rosy barbs can be kept in aquariums as well as in outdoor ponds. If you keep your Rosy barb in an outdoor pond, you might need to bring them indoors during the winter if you live in a cold part of the world since water temperatures below 16C (60F) should be avoided. Always keep at least 5 Rosy barbs together, since this fish will feel very stressed if kept alone. A 30 gallon aquarium (114 litres) or larger is recommended. When you set up the aquarium, it is important to keep in mind that Rosy barbs can grow up to 14.0 centimetres (5.5 inches) in length. Pet stores will typically sell Rosy barbs that are much smaller in size. Try to mimic the natural Rosy barb habitat when you set up the aquarium. Include a lot of aquatic plants, but avoid soft leaved plant species since the Rosy barb might destroy them by nibbling too much. If you want to be on the safe side, you can choose extremely hardy plant species such as Java moss that will tolerate Rosy barb attacks. Some aquarists have reported that their Rosy barbs help controlling algae growth in the aquarium by eating hair algae.

Rosy barb tank mates:

The Rosy barb is a great community fish that can be kept together with a wide range of other small and non-aggressive fish species that appreciate the same type of environment, temperature, water chemistry etcetera. As mentioned above, you should never house less than five Rosy barbs together. Rosy barbs can sometimes display aggressive tendencies, but most of the time they are really peaceful fishes that swim around together and mind their own business.

Rosy barb picture. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

Rosy barb care:

Rosy barbs are considered to be one of the easiest fish species to care for in captivity. It is one of the toughest barb species and it is frequently successfully kept by beginner aquarists. Rosy barbs are sturdy and can adapt to most water conditions as long as you avoid the extremes. They can however suffer if the pH is allowed to become too acidic or too alkaline. In the wild, Rosy barbs have been found in water conditions ranging from pH 6 to pH 8, but it is recommended to keep the pH value in the aquarium in the 6.5-7.5 range. The dH should be between 5 and 19. Wild Rosy barbs live in subtropical waters where the temperature stays between 18 and 22 C (64.5 and 71.5 F). They can however tolerate a greater temperature span, typically from 16 to 26 C (60 to 78 F), if the change is slow and gradual and provide the Rosy barb with plenty of time to accommodate.

Rosy barb feeding:

Wild Rosy barbs are opportunistic omnivores that feed on plant matter, insects, worms and crustaceans. They are happy eaters in the aquarium and will accept a wide range of food types, including flakes,

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pellets and frozen food. Vegetables, such as boiled zucchini and peas are much appreciated. Rosy barbs will also eat live food if the food is small enough to be considered prey. Rosy barbs can help controlling excessive algae growth since they feed on algae, and some aquarists have reported that Rosy barbs are a great way of combating hair algae. They will however also feed on the plants in the aquarium, so sensitive soft leaved species should generally be avoided. Since Rosy barbs are such happy eaters in captivity, they are prone to over feeding and fatty degeneration. They can also develop nutritional deficiencies if kept on a monotonous diet of low quality prepared food that does not include all necessary nutrients.

Rosy barb breeding:

Wild Rosy barbs will scatter their eggs on some form of substrate or simply release them in open water. The female Rosy barbs can produce hundreds of eggs per spawning. Rosy barbs do not care for egg or fry and may eat their own offspring. If you want to ensure a higher fry survival, you can set up a separate breeding aquarium. A 20 gallon aquarium is large enough. Preferably include plants in the set up. Professional Rosy barb breeders often let Rosy barbs breed in outdoor ponds where there is more space for the offspring to stay away from the adult fish. If young Rosy barbs are raised in a small aquarium, their growth can become stunted. o

Breeding Rosy Barbs

Rosy barbs are hardy, easy to spawn and a good beginner's choice if you wish to try breeding barbs. They look rather dull as juveniles, but adult males will develop a very attractive coloration where black and vivid shades of red contrasts sharply against each other. There is also a longfinned variant that looks even fancier. Keeping your Rosy barbs on a nutritious and varied diet is recommended; you can for instance use highquality flake food as a base and supplement it with brine shrimp and other small live or frozen meaty foods. Keep the water quality up by changing 50% of the water once a week. If you want to set up a separate breeding aquarium, a 5 gallon tank is actually big enough. Move a ripe (i.e. big-bellied) female and a good looking, healthy male to the breeding aquarium and wait for them to spawn. It is advisable to include a few hiding spots in the aquarium to relieve stress and make the fish feel more at ease. A spawning mop should also be added. Keep the water temperature in the higher parts of the recommended range, preferably around 82 degrees F. If you miss the actual spawning, you will still able to tell that is has taken place since the female will slim down considerably afterwards. Catch the parents and move them back to their home aquarium to keep them from eating their offspring. Rosy barb fry normally hatches within 48 hours at 82 degrees F and the fry will be free swimming around day five. Free-swimming fry is big enough to eat newly hatched brine shrimp.

Young rosy barbs. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk n

Ruby Barb Puntius nigrofasciatus

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Ruby Barb - Pictures by JJphoto.dk

Introduction
The Ruby Barb, a small and lively fish belonging to the minnow family, was earlier considered a barb of the genus Barbus and you may therefore find it described under the name Barbus nigrofasciatus in older literature. It is today considered a part of the genus Puntius; hence the scientific name Puntius nigrofasciatus. Puntius nigrofasciatus is known under several different common names, including Ruby Barb, Black Ruby Barb, Purple-Headed Barb, and Purplehead Barb. The Ruby Barn is considered moderately difficult to care for and is not recommended for novice aquarists. The expected lifespan of a Ruby Barb is 3-5 years. Puntius nigrofasciatus is listed as Conservation Dependent on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. It was listed as Vulnerable from 1986 until it was moved down to just Conservation Dependent in 1996.

Taxonomy
Kingdom: Phylum: Class: Order: Family: Genus: Species: Animalia Chordata Actinopterygii Cypriniformes Cyprinidae Puntius

Puntius nigrofasciatus

Geographical range, habitat and habits

The Ruby Barb lives in southern Sri Lanka in Asia where it can be found in forested streams from the Kelani basin to the Nilwala basin. It inhabits densely grown and fairly slowly flowing hilly streams at an elevation of approximately 300 metres (1000 feet). These regions are tropical but the shaded streams are comparatively cold: XX79 F / 2026 C. The water stays in the lower part of the temperature range during the winter and increases during the summer. The water is acidic (pH 6.0-6.5) and has a hardness of 5-12 dGH. The substrate is gravel or sand. In the wild, the Ruby Barb chiefly feeds on filamentous algae and detritus.

Size and appearance

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The largest scientifically measured Ruby Barb was 6.0 cm (2.4 in). The Ruby Barb has the typically highbacked Barb shape. The male fish is silvery or dark blue to black with a crimson head, while the female displays duller colours and dark vertical bars. The basal part of all the vertical fins is deep black in females, while pelvic fins are reddish and the anal fin blackish red in males. (His dorsal fin is deep black.) Young Ruby Barbs are of a yellowish gray shade and sport vertical striping.

Ruby Barb care

The Ruby Barb is a lively schooling fish and you need to get a group of at least six specimens, preferably more, if you wish to keep this species. A school is needed for this fish to stay happy, healthy and friendly in the aquarium. Always keep more females than males; a 3:1 ratio is good. The aquarium where you keep a school of Ruby Barbs should be at least 70 cm long. The fish will spend most of their time in mid water. Unlike the Tiger Barb, the Ruby Barb is not a fin-nipper. The Ruby Barb is known to sometimes school with striped barbs. Ideally include areas of densely grown plants in the set up while also leaving space open for swimming. Subdued lighting is recommended, you can for instance use floating plants to dim the light. The Ruby Barb likes to be sheltered from the surface. Ruby Barbs can become exceedingly shy if they are 1. 2. 3. kept in aquariums without enough hiding spots kept alone or in a very small group (<6 specimens) kept in a brightly lit aquarium where there are no plants to seek shelter under

As mentioned above, the Ruby Barb is used to 20-22 C (68-72 F) during the winter and 22-26 C (7279 F) during the summer. The water hardness in its native home is normally 5-12 dGH, but this fish is known to adapt to hardness up to 15 dGH. Keep the water acidic; ideally in the 6.0-6.5 range. Let a layer of humus stay on the bottom over the substrate (sand or gravel). Keep the levels of organic waste low.

Feeding Ruby Barb

In the wild, the Ruby Barb chiefly feeds on filamentous algae and detritus. This doesnt mean that it will turn down a meaty threat in the aquarium, but it should not be kept on a diet rich in protein and low in fibre. The Ruby Barb accepts most types of food, from small live animals to pellets, flakes and blanched greens (lettuce, zucchini, spinach, and so on). It may nibble on plants in the aquarium but will usually cause no harm. Keeping your Ruby Barbs on a varied diet will boost their immune system and is therefore recommended.

Breeding Ruby Barb

The male Ruby Barb is leaner, larger and taller, and his colours are darker and more intense than those displayed by the female. Sexing this species is therefore not very hard. During the breeding period, the male fish will enhance his colours (see section about appearance above). Sometimes when males are kept together in a group in aquariums they will retain their intense breeding colours outside the breeding period. Exactly why they do that remains a mystery, but it may be a form of competition. The Ruby Barb is aquarium bred in fairly large quantities from the aquarium trade. If you wish to breed Ruby Barbs, keep the water temperature in the 25-28 C (77-82 F) range, the water hardness below 12 dGH, and the pH-level around 6.0. During courtship, the male Ruby Barbs will swim around and display in front of the females. The spawning usually takes place in the morning among fine leafed plants or among the roots of floating ones. This is an egg scattering species and the female will release over 100 eggs among the plants. The spawning can proceed for up to two hours. When its over, professional breeders usually remove the adult fish to prevent the eggs from being eaten. This species does not care for eggs or fry. You can expect the eggs to hatch within 24-48 hours. If the eggs do not become fertilized, the reason can be the male fish not being kept on a varied and nutritious diet. e

T-Barb / Spanner Barb - Puntius laterstriga

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T Barb - Pictures by JJphoto.dk Common name: T-barb, spanner barb Scientific name: Puntius laterstriga Synonyms: Barbus laterstriga, B. zelleri, Systomus laterstriga Size: 18 cm /7 inches pH: 6.0 -6 .5 Temperature: 23 - 29 C (73.4 - 84.2 F ) Hardness: 4 - 12 N Lifespan: 8 years The T-barb is a large active barb. While young it is a shoaling fish but adult specimens might become solitary. Unlike most other barbs, adult T-barbs can therefore be kept alone instead of in a shoal. The T-barb originates from southeastern Asia where it is found in Borneo, Sumatra, Java, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand. They are usually found in clear oxygen rich streams with a lot of rocks and boulders to hide among. They love oxygen rich waters and can often be found behind waterfalls throughout their native range. This species is mainly seen swimming through the lower water levels and can be aggressive towards other fish in the aquarium. T-barbs are suitable for aquariums with other mid-sized fast moving species as well as slower species that are not disturbed by this fast moving species.

Aquarium & care

This species is easy to keep and does not require much pampering as long as the water quality is kept high and the water is well oxygenated. They do however prefer an aquarium with areas of densely planted vegetation along the sides and back of the tank and plenty of open space for swimming in the middle of the aquarium. The T-barb likes to have a few shaded spots available for resting. These spots can be created using bogwood or rocks and boulders. It is important to keep the water well circulated and strong filtration is preferable.

Feeding T-Barb
The T-Barb is very easy to feed as it will accept almost all food types. In the wild they are omnivores that eat virtually anything they come across of the right size. You can feed them a varied diet based around flake food but also containing live and frozen food as well as vegetable matter. They will be much more colourful when kept on a varied diet then they would on a diet consisting of flake food only.

Sexing T-Barb
It is not always easy to sex T-barbs. Females are less colourful and fatter then the more slender and colourful males. This grows more apparent as the fish matures. It is easy to tell the sex in fish that have been conditioned for spawning.

Breeding T-Barb
T-barbs are easy to breed as long as they are provided with a large enough spawning tank. It is a large species that carry out intensive spawning rituals and therefore needs an aquarium of at least 30 gallon / 110 L to spawn in. They spawn more easily if you keep the water level low in the breeding aquarium, 10-15 cm (4-6 inches) is ideal. The bottom of the tank should be covered by marbles or a mesh that protects the eggs from the parents who wants to eat them. The aquarium should also contain dense areas of fine leafed plants and java moss. Spawning mops can be used if you dont want to use live

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plants. The pH-value in the tank should be kept close to pH 7.0 and the temperature at 26-29C (7984F). This species spawns more willingly in soft water. Separate males and females for three weeks and feed them a varied diet including a lot of live and frozen food to condition them to spawn. Move the fattest female and the most colorful male into the spawning aquarium. Spawning usually takes place the morning after the male and female have been moved to the tank. Sunlight that hits the aquarium helps trigger spawning. This is a very fertile species and one spawning can result in 3000 eggs and fry. Remove the parents from the tank once spawning is completed to prevent them from eating eggs and fry. The fry hatch after 24-48 hours (usually closer to 48) and are free swimming a few days later. They fry are small and need to be feed infusorians or other small food until they are large enough to start eating newly hatched brine shrimp and, later, crushed flake food.

Tiger Barb
Puntius tetrazona
Tiger barb information:
Scientific name: Puntius tetrazona Common name: Tiger barb, Sumatra barb Max. size: 7.0 cm / 2.8 inches pH range: 6.0 8.0 dH range: 5 19 Temperature range: 20 26C / 68 79F The Tiger barb is one of several barb species frequently kept by freshwater aquarists. Figures from 1992 showed that 2.6 million Tiger barbs where imported to the United States that year, which made the Tiger Barb number 10th on the list of the most frequently imported ornamental fish species. Today, you can find several different captive bred hybrids in the aquarium trade. These hybrids are usually bred for their colour, and you can for instance purchase Albino Tiger barbs, Gold Tiger barbs and the highly melanistic Green tiger barb. The Green tiger barb looks green because of the so called Tindall effect.

Tiger barb classification:

Scinentific name for the Tiger barb is Puntius tetrazona. It belongs to the genus Puntius in the family Cyprinidae (the minnow family). The Tiger barb has been known under several different scientific names, including Barbus tetrazona, Capoeta sumatraus, Barbodes tetrazona, Capoeta tetrazona and. A German ichthyologist named Pieter Bleeker described the Tiger barb in 1855 and named it Barbus tetrazona. Two years later, Bleeker did however describe a completely different species under the same scientific name. In 1860, Bleeker furthered the confusion by using the name Capoeta sumatraus for the first described fish, the Tiger barb. These mistakes were not discovered until the late 1930s. The Tiger barb nomenclature was changed and the Tiger barb was attributed its original scientific name, Barbus tetrazona. In recent years, ichthyologist Dr L.P. Schultz reclassified the entire barb group by arranging them based on the number of barbers possessed by each species. The proper classification of the Tiger barb is however still under much debate. Ichthyologist Zakaria-ismail has recently explained that according to his ongoing osteological research that have been classified under Puntius, it is not possible to clearly define the genus named Barbodes.

Tiger barb hybridization:

Since colourful Tiger barbs are popular among aquarists, a lot of hybrids have been created in order to emphasize and enhance colouration. Inter-specific as well as intra-specific hybridization have been carried out and different colours as well as different colour patterns have been the result. Examples of captive bred Tiger barb varieties are the Albino Tiger barb, the Gold Tiger barb and the Green Tiger barb.

Tiger barb description:

The longest scientifically measured Tiger barb was 7 centimetres (2.8 inches) in length. There exists several unverified however reports of Tiger barbs reaching over 7 centimetres in length and over 3 centimetres in width. Tiger barbs kept in aquariums rarely reach their full size. The wild Tiger barb is silvery to brownish yellow. The fish is decorated with four black stripes that run vertical along the body; hence the common name Tiger barb. The fins are of a vivid orange shade.

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Albino Tiger barb

The Albino Tiger barb is loved by many aquarists and shunned by others. Albinism is a genetic condition caused by a particular combination of recessive alleles in the fish DNA. The Albino Tiger barb must inherit this trait from both parents in order to become an albino fish. Albinism leads to a lack of pigmentation and the Albino Tiger barb will therefore look very pale compared to the ordinary Tiger barb. Albino Tiger barbs will shoal together with normal Tiger barbs and Green Tiger barbs and are therefore often used to produce a contrast effect in the aquarium. Care for your Albino Tiger barbs just as if they were ordinary Tiger barbs; both types appreciate the same conditions.

Green tiger barb picture. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

Green Tiger barb

The Green Tiger barb is also known as the Moss-banded barb or simply Moss barb. It is a captive bred colour morph of the wild Tiger barb. The Green tiger barb is very popular among aquarists since it displays an attractive deep fluorescent green or blue-greenish colouration. The Green Tiger barb is highly melanistic and reflects this green shade over its black due to a phenomenon known as the Tindall effect. Green Tiger barbs will shoal with normal Tiger barbs and Albino Tiger barbs. The care recommendations for the Green Tiger barb are the same as for the normal Tiger barb.

Tiger barb habitat and range:

Tiger barbs originate from South-East Asia and are native to Indonesia and Malaysia. They live on the Malay Peninsula, on the island of Sumatra and on the island of Borneo. Occasional specimens have also been reported from Cambodia, but these sightings have not been scientifically verified. Since it is a popular aquarium fish, freshwater Tiger barbs have been introduced to many countries by man. You can for instance find it in Australia, Singapore, Suriname and Colombia. This makes it hard to know if freshwater Tiger barbs spotted in other Asian countries than Indonesia and Malaysia are small, native populations or hail from fish that have been recently introduced by man. The Tiger barb is a benthopelagic species frequently found in clear or turbid water. The typical Tiger barb habitat is a shallow and medium fast stream in the tropics where the water temperature is high. Freshwater Tiger barbs have also been found in swampy lakes where the water level fluctuates a lot. This type of fluctuations is commonly associated with fluctuating water quality as well, and the wild Tiger barb might therefore be more tolerant to changing water quality than what was previously assumed.

Tiger barb behaviour and suitable tank mates:

The Tiger barb is a shoaling fish and you should not purchase this species unless you have room to keep at least five specimens together, preferably more. If you keep a smaller number of freshwater Tiger barbs they can become aggressive and their fin-nipping tendencies are often enhanced. The Tiger barb is a somewhat aggressive species and the shoal will form a pecking order. Sometimes, this pecking order is extended to include other fish as well. If you keep your Tiger barbs in a large enough shoal, they can however usually be kept together with more docile species without turning into bullies. Injured fish should ideally be quarantined since the Tiger barbs are known to attack wounded fish. Fish with exceptionally long and flowing fins are not recommended as companions for Tiger barbs.

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When kept in a shoal, the Tiger barb is a very active species that will spend most of its time in the water's mid-level. The average life span in a well kept aquarium is 6 years.

Tiger barb setup:

The recommended minimum aquarium size is 60 centimetres (24 inches). Try to mimic the natural Tiger barb habitat when you set up the aquarium. The shoal should be given plenty of room for swimming, but hiding spots should also be included. Ideally keep the aquarium well planted. Rocks and driftwood will also be appreciated.

Tiger barb picture. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

Tiger barb care:

The Tiger barb is known to adapt to a pH between 6.0 and 8.0 and a dH between 5 and 19. It will however do best in soft and slightly acidic water, so it is recommended to keep the pH in the 6.0-7.0 range and the dH below 10. In aquariums, Tiger barbs are sometimes kept in a dH as low as 4. Try to keep the water temperature in the upper part of the recommended range, ideally 23 26 C (74-79 F).

Tiger barb feeding:

The Tiger barb is an omnivore species and wild Tiger barbs feed on plant matter, worms and small crustaceans. It is therefore important that you provide your freshwater Tiger barbs with a varied diet that contains vegetables as well as meaty foods. A high-quality flake food for tropical fish can be used as a base. Supplement with live or frozen foods, e.g. brine shrimps and bloodworms. Tiger barbs will also like boiled zucchini and lettuce.

Tiger barb breeding:

Wild Tiger barbs are very prolific and the minimum population doubling time for this species is less than 15 months. The Tiger barb will usually become sexually mature when it reaches a length of 2-3 centimetres (0.8-1.2 inches), and this will typically happen when the fish is around seven weeks old. Sexing Tiger barbs is not very hard, since the female Tiger barb is larger than the male and sports a rounder belly. The male have a distinctive red nose, and above the black part of his dorsal fin you can see a characteristic red line. The dorsal fin of the female is mainly black. If you want to breed freshwater Tiger barbs in captivity, the best method is to keep a shoal of Tiger barbs together and let them form their own pairs. It can be a good idea to set up a separate breeding aquarium since Tiger barbs eat their own eggs, as well as eggs laid by other fishes. Removing the adult fish after spawning is therefore recommended.

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Tinfoil Barb

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Barbonymus schwanenfeldii
Tinfoil barb information:
Scientific name: Barbonymus schwanenfeldii Common name: Tinfoil barb Max. size: 35.0 cm / 14 inches pH range: 6.5 7.0 dH range: 10 Temperature range: 22 25C / 72 77F The Tinfoil barb grows really large, up to 35 centimetres (14 inches) and is therefore not suitable for small aquariums. Inexperienced aquarists sometimes purchase young Tinfoil barbs without first researching how big this fish can grow and that you should keep at least 5 specimens together. The Tinfoil barb is also utilized as food fish in its native region and grown in aquacultures.

Tinfoil barb habitat and range:

The Tinfoil barb is a benthopelagic and potamodromous species native to Brunei Darsm, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam. It lives in large rivers as well as in streams, ditches and manmade canals. Tinfoil barbs will also enter flooded fields.

Tinfoil barb description:

As mentioned above, the Tinfoil barbs can easily outgrow small aquariums since they can reach a length of 35 centimetres (14 inches). Large Tinfoil barbs display a silvery or golden yellow colouration with red fins. You can distinguish the Tinfoil barb from other members of its genus by looking at the dorsal fin. The Tinfoil barb features an orange or blood-red dorsal fin decorated with a black blotch at the tip. The pectoral, pelvic and anal fins are also red and have white margins. Along each lobe, you can see a black submarginal stripe. There are 8 scale rows located between the dorsal-fin origin and the lateral line.

Tinfoil barb behaviour:

The Tinfoil barb is a schooling species and you should therefore always keep at least 5 specimens together. By keeping a group of Tinfoil barbs you will make the fishes much less stressed in the aquarium and you will also be able to enjoy a much broader range of natural behaviours. Shoaling Tinfoil barbs are highly active and entertaining. They spend most of their time between the bottom and the mid-level of the aquarium. Tinfoil barbs are peaceful creatures and can be housed with other docile fish species, provided of course that your aquarium is large enough. A well cared for Tinfoil barb can reach an age of 8-10 years.

Tinfoil barb picture. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

Tinfoil barb setup:

The recommended aquarium size for Tinfoil barbs will naturally depend on how large the specimens are, but 55 gallons (208 litres) is considered an absolute minimum. Try to mimic the natural Tinfoil barb

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habitat when you set up the aquarium for your Tinfoil barbs. Wild Tinfoil barbs inhabit moving waters in Asia, such as rivers, streams, canals and ditches. Tinfoil barbs will therefore appreciate currents in the aquarium.

Tinfoil barb tank mates:

Tinfoil barbs should always be kept together in a group consisting of at least five Tinfoil barbs. The Tinfoil bar group can be housed together with peaceful fish species of similar size or bigger. If you have a really large aquarium, you can for instance keep a group of Tinfoil barbs together with large cichlids, such as the Oscar fish (Astronotus ocellatus). Tinfoil barbs are also frequently kept together with shy and jittery fish species, since a calm Tinfoil barb group will make less tranquil fish species feel much more relaxed in the aquarium and encourage them to spend more time out in the open instead of staying hidden. Tinfoil barbs feed are chiefly herbivores, but should not be kept with crustaceans and small fishes since they can be considered food.

Tinfoil barb care:

The recommended temperature in a Tinfoil barb aquarium is 22 25C (72 77F). Wild Tinfoil barbs have however been found in a much broader temperature spectrum. Tinfoil barbs living in east Kalimantan in Indonesia have for instance been shown to adapt to a natural temperature range that stretches from 20.4 to 33.7C (68.7 - 92.7F). The recommended pH range for Tinfoil barbs is slightly acidic to neutral; 6.5 to 7.0. The recommended dH is 10.

Tinfoil barb feeding:

Wild Tinfoil barbs are chiefly herbivore creatures and will eat aquatic macrophytes, filamentous algae, submerged land plants and similar. They will however also eat insects, worms, crustaceans and small fishes. In the aquarium, Tinfoil barbs are usually happy eaters that readily accept most types of food. Healthy Tinfoil barbs will try to capture as much food as possible when you feed them. Avoiding overfeeding is important since obesity is unhealthy for all fishes. Keep your Tinfoil barbs on a varied diet can consists of an herbivore base supplemented with occasional treats in the form of worms, crustaceans and similar.

Tinfoil barb breeding:

The Tinfoil barb is an egg scattering species and the female Tinfoil barb can produce several thousand eggs per spawning. Sexing Tinfoil barbs is a bit tricky, since there are no obvious difference between males and females. Since Tinfoil barbs grow so large, they are not easy to breed in captivity. According to unverified sources, a public aquarium has managed to breed Tinfoil barbs in captivity at least once, but as of 2006, no public aquarium has published any details regarding how to breed Tinfoil barbs. If you want to go about breeding Tinfoil barbs, you will need an outdoor aquaculture in a tropical climate or a really big aquarium. Since the Tinfoil barbs are egg scatterers, they will not care for their eggs. Chances are high that they will eat egg and/or fry if kept together in the same aquarium. If you plan to breed Tinfoil barbs, it can therefore be a good idea to arrange a separate breeding aquarium where the offspring can be raised without the presence of adult fish. If you instead want to let the offspring stay together with the adult fish in the large aquarium, you can promote a higher fry survival by including a lot of plants in the set up. Java moss will for instance produce plenty of hiding spots for young Tinfoil barbs since Java moss produce and abundance of bushy leaves. Tinfoil barb fry will instinctively seek shelter and try to stay away from adult fish in the aquarium, just like they would do in the wild.

Zebrafish - Danio rerio

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Zebrafish - Pictures by JJphoto.dk

Glowfish, genetically engineered and patented zebrafish that glows in the dark. Common name: Zebrafish, Zebra fish, Zebra danio Scientific name: Danio rerio Synonyms: Brachydanio rerio Size: 6 cm / 2,4 inches pH:.5-7.0 Temperature: 18 - 25 C (65 - 77 F ) Hardness: 7 12 dH Lifespan: 5 years (usually only 2-4) The zebra fish is a small and friendly fish. It is very hardy and adaptable which makes it an ideal beginner fish. The zebra fish is a very popular fish and you can find it in just about any aquarium shop around the world. They are breed in huge numbers for the aquarium market. It is likely possible to find locally breed specimens if you would prefer such specimens over imported fish. The zebra fish has been a popular fish for a long time and became popular early due to its hardiness, cold resistance and easiness to breed. The Zebrafish originates from eastern Asia. It can be found from the Ganges region in India and east through Pakistan, Bangladesh, Nepal and Burma (Myanmar). It is commonly found in most types of water ranging from streams to stagnant ponds and rice fields. The Zebra fish has also been accidentally introduced into a number of different waters around the world and it can today also be found in countries such as USA, Australia and Colombia. There are a long row of different variants of this fish available in addition to the regular form. These forms include classical forms like long finned zebra fish, albino zebra fish, golden zebra fish, sandy zebrafish and leopard danios (earlier known as Danio frankeri.), but also modern genetically engineered zebra fish that glows in the dark. The glowing variant is available in red, yellow and green and is often sold under the name Glowfish (the name is a trademark for these patented fish). Glowfish was not designed for the aquarium market but is proving popular and might lead to more design species being develop for the hobby in the future. The Zebrafish is very popular among scientist as they are a perfect model organism for vertebrates and can be used as a complement to mice and rats in research. The Zebrafish has proven very useful for research and the study of this fish has formed the basis for many new promising medical technologies.

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This Zebrafish is a very curios species and they will try to nibble on your arm hair or on your hands when you clean the aquarium to see if they can find something to eat. They show the same behavior in the wild.

Aquarium & care

The Zebra danio is an extremely flexible fish that will adapt to almost any setup. This is not surprising considering the wide variety of different biotopes they are found in the wild; environments ranging from stagnant pools and rice fields to fast moving streams. You can design your aquarium decoration in accordance with the needs of the other fish species you keep with your Zebra fish. They are suitable to be kept in community aquarium with all friendly species that are small enough not to consider the Zebra fish as food. Zebra fish prefers neutral to slightly acidic water. The ideal aquarium for Zebra fish contains clean oxygen rich water and has a lot of open area to swim in and some areas with dense vegetation. The Zebrafish is a shoaling fish and it should never be kept in groups of less than 6-8 fish. A larger group is preferable. If kept in smaller groups the fish will be timid and never show its true nature.

Feeding zebrafish
Zebra danios are omnivores. They are very easy to feed as they will accept almost any food of a suitable size. Zebra fish put very small demands on the fish keeper in regards to food. They thrive and breed on a diet of exclusively (high quality) flake food. You should however none the less try to give them a more varied and nutritious diet. Such a diet can be based around flake food but be supplemented with frozen and live food as well as vegetables.

Sexing zebrafish
Zebrafish are easy to sex once they have reached sexual maturity. The same signs can be used even before that, but it is harder to see the difference in younger fish. Females are larger and a lot fatter than the smaller sleeker males. It is very easy to tell an adult Zebra danio male from an adult female.

Breeding zebrafish
The Zebra fish is just like most other popular danio species very easy to spawn. They often spawn in community aquariums but it is rare for any fry to survive. The species is an egg scatterer that shown no parental concerns. They forget about the eggs as soon as they have been deposited and they will eat their own egg and fry. The zebra fish can be bred both in groups and in pairs. Breeding them in pairs usually yields a better result as some fish in a group tends to eat the fry while others are spawning. If you want a large batch of fry you should start by separating the males and the females into different aquariums. You should then condition the fish by giving them a good and varied diet with a lot of live food for 2-3 weeks before taking the fattest female and the most vibrant male and move them to a breeding aquarium. The bottom of the breeding aquarium should be covered by a mesh or two layers of marbles to protect the eggs from the parents hungry eyes. The aquarium should also contain batches of fine leafed plants. Sunlight and a reduced water temperature can help trigger spawning. The pair that has been moved to the aquarium will usually spawn within 24 hours. It can be good to move the female to the breeding tank first and leave her there fore 24 before adding the male. The parents should be removed from the aquarium once the spawning is complete to prevent them from eating the eggs. The fry are rather small and should be feed infusorians or rotifers until they grow large enough to eat artemia nauplier. u

Bengal Danio - Devario devario

Species name: Devario devario Synonym: Cyprinus devario; Perilampus ostreographus; Devario macclellandi, Danio devario. Common name: Bengal danio, Sind danio, Turquoise danio Family: Cyprinidae Order: Cypriniformes

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Class: Actinopterygii Maximum size: 10 cm / 3.9 inches Environment: freshwater Origin: Afghanistan, Bangladesh, India, Nepal & Pakistan. Temperament: Peaceful Company: Devario devario (Bengal danio) can be kept in community aquarium with other active species. Water parameters: Temperature 15-26C / 75-86 F; pH 6.0 - 8.0 Aquarium setup: Devario devario (Bengal danio) is relatively sensitive and need good water conditions to thrive. The aquarium should offer a lot of free space to swim on. Plants are not necessary. Feeding: Devario devario (Bengal danio) accepts all kinds of food. Breeding: Devario devario (Bengal danio) are easy to breed. Theya re egg scattering and the parents should be removed once the spawning is completed. Setup a aquarium with a substrate that protects the eggs like marbles and a few plants.

Picture of Bengal danio - Devario devario. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Devario devario - Bengal danio. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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t

Brilliant rasbora - Rasbora borapetensis

Brilliant rasbora - Picture by JJphoto.dk Species name: Synonym: Common Family: Order: Class: Maximum Environment: Origin: Thailand and Malaysia; friendly, size: 5 cm name: Brilliant rasbora,

Rasbora

borapetensis none Red tailed rasbora Cyprinidae Cypriniformes Actinopterygii / 2 inches freshwater

Mallakka, can

near

Kuala be

Trengganu timid

Temperament:

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Company: Brilliant rasbora (Rasbora borapetensis) is a shoaling fish should be kept in shoals in aquariums. It can be housed with other small and friendly species that appreciate the same water conditions. Avoid keeping it with large or aggressive species. Water parameters: Temperature 22-26C / 72-79F; pH 6.0 7.0

Aquarium setup: Brilliant rasbora (Rasbora borapetensis) should be kept in with dense vegetation along the back and sides. Some roots that are placed in areas are created are recommended. Use floating plants to dim the light in the filtration. The Brilliant rasbora prefers a dark

a shoal in an aquarium such a way that shaded open area. Avoid strong bottom substrate.

Feeding: Brilliant rasbora (Rasbora borapetensis) is easy to feed as they accept most food types including flake food. Give them a varied diet including live and frozen food as well as vegetables. Breeding: Brilliant rasbora (Rasbora borapetensis) is hard to breed but not impossible. Condition the fish by feeding them a lot of live food. The breeding aquarium should contain a mesh at the bottom to protect eggs. Also include a few fine and broad leafed plants in the setup. Remove the parents once spawning has taken place. The fry are small and need to be fed infusorians. They can usually be fed newly hatched brine shrimp after 7-14 days.

Giant Danio - Devario aequipinnatus

Species name: Devario aequipinnatus Synonym: Perilampus canarensis; Puntius malabaricus; Perilampus mysoricus; Danio malabaricus; Perilampus aurolineatus, Danio aequipinnatus Common name: Giant Danio Family: Cyprinidae Order: Cypriniformes Class: Actinopterygii Maximum size: 10 cm / 4 inches Environment: freshwater Origin: India, Myanmar, Thailand, Myanmar, Bangladesh and Nepal. Temperament: Peaceful Company: Devario aequipinnatus (Giant Danio) can be kept in community aquariums with small and medium sized inhabitants. Water parameters: Temperature 18-24C / 65-75F; pH 6.0 - 8.0 Aquarium setup: Devario aequipinnatus (Giant Danio) accepts most water conditions providing extremes are avoided. The aquarium decoration should be created so that hey has a lot of open space to swim in as well as places with dense vegetation. Devario aequipinnatus (Giant Danio) is a very active species that should only be kept in groups of ten or more fishes. The aquarium should be well covered sine they are excellent jumpers. Feeding: Devario aequipinnatus (Giant Danio) accept most food sources and will readily accept flake food when kept in aquariums.

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Breeding: Devario aequipinnatus (Giant Danio) are very easy to breed. Males are slimmer and have a more intense colouration than the females. Devario aequipinnatus (Giant Danio) can be breed either in pairs or in groups. The parents should be removed as soon as the eggs are laid to avoid them eating the eggs. You should also provide a suitable substance on the bottom like java moss that prevents the parents from getting to their eggs.

Picture of Giant Danio - Devario aequipinnatus. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Koi Carp - Cyprinus carpio carpio

Species name: Cyprinus carpio carpio Synonym: Here Common Names: Koi Carp Family: Cyprinidae Order: Cypriniformes Class: Actinopterygii Max. size: 120 cm / 48 inches Environment: Fresh and brackish water Origin: Globally Temperament: Non-aggressive. Company: Can be kept with most large non aggressive fish species. Water parameters: pH 7.0-7.5, temperature 3 - 32C / 37 - 90 F

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Aquarium setup: Cyprinus carpio carpio (Koi) requires a very large aquarium wit lot of open space to swim on at the surface and us better suited for ponds then aquariums. Areas with plants are appreciated if your aquarium are large enough to support both open areas and planted areas. Regular water changes and clean water are necessary for the species top thrive. Feeding: All kinds of food. Breeding: Females are rounder when in spawning condition. Successful breeding requires very large aquariums. Spawning can be stimulated by by changing the temperature, changing water conditions, barometric pressure changes or by adding new fishes to the setup. Cyprinus carpio carpio (Koi) normally spawn in water warmer then 18C /65 F. Move eggs to a separate aquarium since the parents eat them.

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Leopard Danio - Danio rerio var. frankei

Species name: Danio rerio var. frankei, was formally known as D. frankei and thought to be a species in its own right but is now considered a variety of D. rerio. Synonym: Cyprinus chapalio; Brachydanio rerio; Perilampus striatus; Brachydanio frankei Common name: Spotted or Leopard Danio. Family: Cyprinidae Order: Cypriniformes Class: Actinopterygii Maximum size: 6 cm / 2 inches

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Environment: freshwater Origin: India. Temperament: Peaceful Company: Danio rerio var. frankei (Leopard Danio) Can be kept in community aquariums with other small species. Water parameters: Temperature 18-24C / 65-75F; pH 6.0 - 8.0 Aquarium setup: Danio rerio var. frankei (Leopard Danio) are not specific about water conditions providing extremes of pH and hardness as well as other parameters are avoided. The aquarium decoration should be created so that a lot of open area to swim on is created with spots of dense vegetation. Danio rerio var. frankei (Leopard Danio) should not be kept in schools smaller than 10 fishes. Make sure to keep your aquarium covered since they are excellent jumpers. Feeding: Danio rerio var. frankei (Leopard Danio) accepts most, not to say all food sources and will accept flake food. Breeding: Danio rerio var. frankei (Leopard Danio) are very easy to breed. Males are slimmer and more intense in their colouration than the females. They can be breed both in pairs and in schools. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages. Set-up your breeding aquarium with java moss or other suitable substances on the bottom so the fishes can scatter their eggs where they cant reach and eat them. Remove the parents from the aquarium once the spawning is completed.

Picture of Leopard Danio - Danio frankei. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Danio frankei - Leopard Danio. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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White Cloud Mountain Minnow - Tanichthys albonubes

Species Synonym: Common Family: Order: Class: Max. size: Tanichthys Names: Cyprinidae White name: albonubes; cloud (Minnows Tanichthys Aphyocypris mountain or (carps) (ray-finned / 1.5 Freshwaters White calm mix Cloud and well temperature likes with 16C Mountains to other / be at similar 60F; pH in least in sized 6.0 China. pairs. fish. 8.0 inches fishes) or smaller. minnow carps) albonubes pooni

Cypriniformes Actinopterygii 4.0 cm

Environment: Origin:

Temperament:Very Company:Will Water

parameters:

Aquarium setup: Tanichthys albonubes(White cloud mountain minnow) is kept by some people outside during summer months. Fishes that have been kept in outdoor pools over summer have more colour than the indoor fish due to the abundance of natural foods, from

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insect larvae to algae. It can also be kept at the lower end of the tropical scale. Feeding: They will accept most commercial foods but relish live and frozen foods. Breeding: Males are slimmer and have more intense colouration than females. Often you can separate a pair to spawn, however, some prefer to spawn the fish in schools so that the females aren't stressed as much. They are egg scatters that will readily breed and left to their own devices in a well-planted tank they will quickly multiply. However, they show no brood care.

Picture of male White cloud mountain minnow - Tanichthys albonubes . Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

Female Tanichthys albonubes - White cloud mountain minnow picture. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Olive Danio - Danio danglia

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Species name: Danio danglia Synonym: Cyprinus dangila; Perilampus reticulatus; Danio meghalayensis Common name: Moustached Danio, Danglia Danio, Olive Danio. Family: Cyprinidae Order: Cypriniformes Class: Actinopterygii Maximum size: 15cm / 6 inches Environment: freshwater Origin: Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Nepal & Myanmar. Temperament: Peaceful Company: Danio danglia (Moustached Danio) can be kept in most community aquariums with not to small species Water parameters: Ttemperature 20 - 25C / 68-77F; pH 6.5 - 7.5 Aquarium setup: Danio danglia (Moustached Danio) requires a large aquarium, due to adult size, with plenty of open space at the top for swimming. The aquarium should be decorated with dense vegetation along the sides. Like all Danios, Danio danglia (Moustached Danio) are a schooling fish and should be kept in a school of at least 5. Feeding: Danio danglia (Moustached Danio) are omnivores and will eat anything from flaked food to shrimp and smaller fish. This fish sometimes develop a liking to fruit and especially apples and bananas. Breeding: It is very hard to tell male Danio danglia (Moustached Danio) from females as they only show the differences when the female is egglaiden. Breeding is the same as with other danios however consideration has to betaken to their large size and the breeding procedure adapted accordingly. The parents should, as with all Danios, be removed from the breeding aquarium as soon as the eggs are laid.

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Picture of Olive Danio - Danio dangila. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

Danio dangila - Moustached Danio. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Orange Finned Danio - Danio kyathit

Species name: Danio kyathit Synonym: Common name: Orange Finned Danio, Orange Finned Zebra Danio. Family: Cyprinidae Order: Cypriniformes

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Class: Actinopterygii Maximum size: 8 cm / 3.25 inches Environment: freshwater Origin: Most of Asia Temperament: Peaceful Company: Danio kyathit (Orange Finned Danio) can be kept in a community aquarium with smaller species. Water parameters: Temperature 20 - 25C / 68-77F; pH 6.0 - 8.0 Aquarium setup: Danio kyathit (Orange Finned Danio) accept most water conditions providing extremes of pH and hardness are avoided. However they show better color if their ideal conditions are met. Like all Danios, Danio kyathit (Orange Finned Danio) are a community fish and should be kept in a school of at least 5. they accept most setups but prefers one with plants. Feeding: Danio kyathit (Orange Finned Danio) will accept flake floods, pellets and live foods such as bloodworms and daphnia. Breeding: Danio kyathit (Orange Finned Danio) are not as easy to breed as many other Danio. They are egg scatterers and will eat their eggs if they are not removed once spawning is concluded. You should use some kind of substrate that protects the eggs from their parents until such time as you can remove the parents.

Picture of Orange Finned Danio - Danio kyathit. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Danio kyathit - Orange Finned Danio. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Pearl Danio - Danio albolineatus

Species name: Danio albolineatus Synonym: Branchydanio albolineatus; Nuria albolineata; Brachydanio albolineatus; Danio pulcher; Danio tweediei Common name: Pearl Danio. Family: Cyprinidae. Order: Cypriniformes Class: Actinopterygii Maximum size: 6 cm / 2 inches Environment: freshwater Origin: Burma, Sumatra, Thailand. Temperament: Peaceful Company: . Danio albolineatus (Pearl Danio) should be kept with other small lively fishes. Water parameters: Temperature 20 - 25C / 68-77F; pH 6.0 - 8.0 Aquarium setup: Danio albolineatus (Pearl Danio) are not specific about water conditions providing extremes are avoided. Danio albolineatus (Pearl Danio) is an active shoaling species that should be kept in groups. They accept most setups but prefer to have a few fine leafed plants to present to spawn, this is however not required. Make sure your aquarium 218

since they are good jumpers.. Feeding: Danio albolineatus (Pearl Danio) will accept all types of food when kept in an aquarium. Breeding: Danio albolineatus (Pearl Danio) are very easy to breed. Males are slimmer and more intense in their colouration than females. They can be spawned both in couples and in schools. Set-up your Danio albolineatus (Pearl Danio) breeding tank with java moss or other suitable substances on the bottom so the fishes can scatter their eggs where they cant reach and eat them. Feed the fry infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp. Make sure the breeding tank is covered as the fishes can be so active that they leap from the water.

Picture of Pearl Danio - Danio albolineatus. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

Danio albolineatus - Pearl Danio. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Red Dwarf Rasbora - Microrasbora rubescens

Species name: Microrasbora rubescens Synonym: Boraras maculatus Common name: Dwarf red rasbora Family: Cyprinidae. Order: Cypriniformes Class: Actinopterygii Maximum size: 5cm / 2 inches Environment: freshwater Origin: Myanmar. Temperament: Peaceful Company: Microrasbora rubescens (Dwarf red rasbora) is a lovely little shoaling fish that will suit any peaceful community aquarium. Water parameters: Temperature 24-26C / 75-79F; pH 5.0 - 6.0 Aquarium setup: Microrasbora rubescens (Dwarf red rasbora) Prefers an aquarium with lot of open space near the surface and dense vegetation further down beneath the surface and on the sides of the aquarium that can serve as hiding places. Microrasbora rubescens (Dwarf red rasbora) should only be kept in schools. Feeding: Microrasbora rubescens (Dwarf red rasbora) will accept most food that are small enough for their small mouth. They accepts flake food. Breeding: Microrasbora rubescens (Dwarf red rasbora) males have a slender body While the females have a thicker body. Breeding take place in the vegetation and providing good spawning plants are essential for breeding this species. The spawn during the day and should be removed from the aquarium when the finished laying their eggs. Microrasbora rubescens (Dwarf red rasbora) are however not that prune to eat their own eggs but will do so if left for a longer time period in the breeding aquarium.

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Picture of Dwarf red rasbora - Microrasbora rubescens. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Rose Danio - Danio roseus

Species name: Danio roseus Synonym: Branchydanio albolineatus; Nuria albolineata; Brachydanio albolineatus Common name: Rose Danio Family: Cyprinidae Order: Cypriniformes Class: Actinopterygii Maximum size: 6.8 cm / 2.75 inches Environment: freshwater Origin: Laos, Thailand and Myanmar. Temperament: Peaceful Company: Can be kept with most small lively fishes.. Water parameters: Temperature 23-25C / 73-77F; pH 6.0 - 8.0 Aquarium setup: Danio roseus (Rose Danio) is quite sensitve and require optimal water conditions to thrive. Minimum aquarium size 60cm / 23 inches. Danio roseus (Rose Danio) is best kept in groups.

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Feeding: Will accept flake floods, pellets and live foods such as bloodworms and daphnia. Breeding: Female Danio roseus (Rose Danio) are typically fatter than the males. Sexually mature adults have intense red to the underside. Danio roseus (Rose Danio) are easy to breed and spawn at dusk or dawn. Like all danios they are egg-scatters. The easiest method is using breeding tank with feathery plants and marble substrate, remove adults after eggs are laid.

Picture of Rose Danio - Danio roseus. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

Danio roseus - Rose Danio. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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it c

Scissortail - Rasbora trilineata

Species name: Rasbora trilineata Synonym: Rasbora stigmatura

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Common name: Scissortail Family: Cyprinidae. Order: Cypriniformes Class: Actinopterygii Maximum size: 8 cm / 3.5 inches Environment: freshwater Origin: South eastern Asia. Temperament: Peaceful Company: Rasbora trilineata (Scissortail) make a good addition to any peaceful community aquarium. Water parameters: Temperature 23-25C / 73-78F; pH 6.6 7.0 Aquarium setup: Rasbora trilineata (Scissortail) should be provided with plenty of open swimming space and a tight cover or it may jump. These fish should also be kept in a group, ideally as large as possible. Recommended a tank of at least 25 gallons. Feeding: They accepts most foods, but frozen and live foods are far preferred. Breeding: Female Scissortails are slightly rounder when viewed from above. Pairs of fish make spawning runs through thickets of plants and the eggs that are scattered attach themselves to leaves. The parents should then be removed otherwise the eggs will be eaten. The fry will hatch after 28-30 hours but will not be free swimming until 3-5 days at which point feeding should begin, newly hatched brine shrimp and other small live foods are best.

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Picture of Scissortail - Rasbora trilineata. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

Rasbora trilineata - Scissortail picture. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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an

Striped barb - Puntius johorensis

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Striped barb Picture by JJphoto.dk Species

name:

ontop

adult

fish, Puntius

below

juvenile johorensis

Synonym: Barbus eugrammus, Barbus tetrazona johorensis, Puntius eugrammus, Systomus johorensis Common Family: Order: Class: Maximum Environment: Origin: Temperament: a friendly fast moving size: 12 cm / almost 5 name: Banded Barb, Lined Barb, Striped Barb Cyprinidae Cypriniformes Actinopterygii inches freshwater Malaysia. species

Company: Striped barb (Puntius johorensis) is suitable for community aquariums with other mid-sized species. It should only be kept in shoals of 6 fish or more. Avoid keeping it with aggressive species. Water parameters: Temperature 23-26C / 73-79F; pH 6.0-6.5

Aquarium setup: Striped barb (Puntius johorensis) should not be kept in too small aquariums. They are large fast swimming fishes that need space to swim. The aquarium should ideally be decorated with dense vegetation along the sides and back and plenty of open space in the front. It is advisable to use a few pieces of bogwood to create shaded areas. Feeding: Striped barb (Puntius johorensis) is easy to feed and will accept most type of foods. Give them

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a varied diet containing both meaty food and vegetables. Do not keep on flake food only. Breeding: Striped barb (Puntius johorensis) is not overly hard to breed. Setup an aquarium with a mesh on the bottom to protect them from the egg eating parents. Keep the parents well fed during spawning to make them less interested in their own eggs. The parents should be removed once the spawning is completed. Striped barb (Puntius johorensis) can be bred in different water conditions but they are most easily breed in slightly acidic water (pH 6) and a water temperature of around 25C / 77 F. The fry are small and should be feed infusorians or other small food. They are usually large enough to eat newly hatched brine shrimp after one week or so. Sexing Striped barb (Puntius johorensis) is hard but the males have darker stripes and are smaller than the females. somet

Zebra Danio - Danio rerio

Species name: Danio rerio

Synonym: Cyprinus chapalio; Cyprinus rerio; Brachydanio rerio; Perilampus striatus; Brachydanio frankei; Danio frankei; Danio lineatus Common Names: Zebra Danio Family: Cyprinidae (Minnows or carps) Order: Cypriniformes (carps) Class: Actinopterygii (ray-finned fishes) Max. size: 6.0 cm / 2 inches Environment: Freshwaters Origin: India, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Nepal and Pakistan. Temperament:Peaceful Company:Keep with tetras, Gouramis, small cichlids, catfish, livebearers, barbs, and other minnows. Water parameters: Temperature 18-24C / 65-75F; pH 6.0 8.0 Aquarium setup: Danio rerio (Zebra danio) is very tough and often used to cycle tanks. These fish like to be in groups of 6 or more. They are top dwellers. They are often used as "dither fish" to distract bigger, more aggressive fish. These guys make a great community fish and fish for beginners. They require a tank of at least 10 gallons preferable more. Feeding: Accepts flake floods and live foods such as bloodworms and brine shrimp. Breeding: Move male and female into a separate tank with a layer of round marbles at the bottom. Eggs will fall in between the marbles so the parents can't eat them. Fry usually hatch within 36 hours and look like little white tadpoles against the glass. They become free swimming in 3 days.

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Picture of Zebra fish / Zebra Danio - Danio rerio. Copyright www.jjphoto.dk

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Betta Fish Care

Photo credit to Bethany Wieman Basic Betta Fish Care Size Hardiness Temperature Ph Peaceful or Aggressive Number of same species in tank Community Species Sexes Strata Food Breeding Breeding temperature Other names Up to 2.5inches or 6.5cm Fairly Easy to keep 75-86F or 24-30C 6-8 Aggressive Males only one, Females two or more Yes Males have larger fins and are more colorful and aggressive than females All Flake food supplemented with brine shrimp and blood worms Fairly easy 80F or 26.5C Beta Fish, Bettas, Siamese Fighting Fish, Chinese Fighting Fish

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Ideal Conditions for this Aquarium Fish

Betta Fish Care is actually fairly simple and they are easy to keep if you follow a few basic guidelines. This is without a doubt one of the most beautiful and popular aquarium fish available. Appearance The males are generally more aggressive and colorful than the females. They also have longer flowing fins which include the dorsal, caudal and anal fins. They are found with many different fin shapes and sizes, in almost every color imaginable. Aggression Males are extremely aggressive towards each other and cannot be kept together at all. They will also show aggression towards other species that tend to be slower moving or have flowing fins like for instance Guppies and Sailfin Mollies. Community Females in general are less aggressive but cannot be regarded as peaceful towards other species. One male and two or more females can however be kept in a community aquarium setup with certain other species like Danios, Gouramis, Platies and of course Cory Cats and Plecos. Strata Bettas can cover all areas of a fish tank and do not really prefer top or bottom. Betta Fish Care is quite interesting since they have the ability to breath air. It is important to have some open surface space in their tank which is not covered with plants. Also have a lid on their tank because they do jump but the lid needs to be a breathable lid for fresh air to be able to reach the surface of the water. Feeding Feeding them a variety of foods is best to bring out their colors and keep them healthy. Feeding them mainly flake food or Betta pellets supplemented with blood worms and brine shrimp will be good enough. Breeding It is surprisingly easy to breed the Beta Fish. Condition a pair by supplementing their diet with live foods and keeping the temperature at 80F or 26.5C. Water changes will also encourage spawning. They breed with a bubble nest which is built by the male. After spawning remove the female. The eggs hatch after two to three days and the fry become free swimming after another three days or so. The male should be kept with the nest after spawning to look after the eggs and the fry until they are free swimming. Only remove him after a week when the fry become free swimming. Other Names Bettas are known by a variety of names which include Siamese Fighting Fish, Chinese Fighting Fish, Betta Fighting Fish and its scientific name which is Betta Splendens.

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Colorful Tropical Fish Pictures

Photo credit to Megan Stevens

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Photo credit to Amanda Pippin

Betta Fish Care

Everyone who has strolled through the aisles of the local pet store has happened upon the betta fish. Displayed in separate cups, rather than larger tanks, new pet betta owners can be misled by the minimum betta fish care required for a healthy, unstressed fish. I am not a betta fish breeder, but Ive learned a lot through experience. Ive decided to write this blog so others dont make the same mistakes Ive made.

Betta fish care

Keeping a pet betta healthy and free from stress doesnt have to be expensive or complicated. Below youll find brief descriptions of what youll want to get started. Over time, youll learn what works best for you. A shopping list is included at the end of this article.

Betta fish tank

Never put a male betta in a tank smaller than 3 gallons. These fish need enough room to swim. One option some fish fanciers prefer is to divide a 10 gallon tank using a fish tank divider. This essentially turns a 10 gallon tank into 2 five gallon tanks. If this is an option you prefer, please remember to add plants to block one bettas view of the other. Seeing an enemy stresses a betta and, like humans, stressed fish live shorter lives.

Betta fish tank heater

There are several styles of heaters available. Read the packaging closely. Each heater is rated for a specific tank size. If you buy a heater thats underpowered for the task, youll have a cold (stressed) betta.

Betta water conditions

In a nutshell, the tank water should be free of the following:

chlorine (added by water processing plants) ammonia (added by the fish!) nitrite (added by bacteria) nitrate (caused by many different factors)

As youll need to address the chlorine issue immediately upon bringing your pet betta home, please know that there are two types of chlorine additives. There are two ways to find out 229

whats been added to your water. You can either call your water supply company to confirm which type(s) have been added or you can just buy a water conditioner at the pet store. There are several brands from which to choose. The only way to know if your tank has unacceptable levels of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate is to test the water. At first , youll test the water at least daily. When youve learned more about your betta, testing weekly may be sufficient. Water test strips are available at all pet stores. Initially they appear to be the cheapest option, but given the amount of testing youll be doing at first, consider buying a water test kit. It will be cheaper for you long-term.

Betta fish food

Another item on the betta fish care list readily available at your local pet store is betta food. It comes in many forms including flakes, pellets, blocks (for vacations), freeze-dried and frozen. Some fishkeepers feed their pet bettas vegetables and others feed living insects. Every betta is different, so you may have to try several types of food before hitting on the version your betta prefers. Start with the pellets. Many bettas are willing to eat them.

Pet betta shopping list

A betta fish tank. Allow no less than 5 gallons per betta. A heater rated for the size of your tank. Betta water conditioner. Read the label to ensure itll remove chlorine and chloramine. A freshwater water test kit. They are more economical long-term than water test strips Betta food. Pellets are a great way to start. Tank decorations (optional) Dont forget the betta!

by admin | Posted in betta fish care, betta fish tank, betta water | | No Comments

Sep 1
Betta Fish Tank Maintenance Full Water Changes

As I new fishkeeper, I found myself full of questions about betta fish care. For that reason, todays blog post format is similar to an FAQ. The subject is about full water changes for your betta fish tank. Please note that there are other approaches to fish tank maintenance. These will be discussed in future blog posts. What is a full water change? Full water changes (or FWC) is exactly as it sounds. Youll empty the tank, wash all of the parts completely and reassemble it. What are the benefits of a full water change? The benefit is knowing that your betta water quality is top-notch at all times. The downside, of course, will be the stress on your fish from being removed regularly from his cozy home to a cup and then back to his home. How often are FWCs required? That depends. Since some fish produce more ammonia than others, youll need to start by

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testing the water daily to become acquainted with your fishs needs. When your water test indicates measurable ammonia (lets say day 5), youll need to change the water and then change it every fourth day from then on. What steps are required for a full water change? 1) Unplug the heater (and filter, if you have one) and wait 15 minutes. 2) Remove your fish with a cup (not a net). 3) Empty your betta fish tank. 4) Thoroughly rinse everything with hot water: tank, decorations, gravel, plants, etc. 5) Reassemble the tank. Do not plug in the heater. 6) Add warm water (78 80 degrees Fahrenheit). 7) Add betta water conditioner. 8) Drain the cup holding your betta (without stressing him too much) before gently adding him back in. 9) Wait 15 minutes, then plug in your heater. Why do I have to wait 15 minutes for the heater? Many heaters are made of glass. To minimize the change of breakage, you should allow the heater to acclimate. Why should I use a cup and not a net to remove my fish from his tank? The fins of a betta splendens can catch in a net and tear easily. You bought the prettiest fish in the store. Lets keep him that way. Is it really necessary to remove everything from the tank? Ammonia is toxic to your fish. The only way to ensure that water is the cleanest it can be, is to tear the tank down each time. Could I do a partial water change instead of a full one? There are many reasons for choosing to do a partial water change (PWC) instead of a full one. If your busy schedule prevents you from completing a full water change, remember that youre starting with ammonia in the tank, so you wont be to wait as long until your next full water change. Any last tips about full water changes? 1) If you drain the betta cup over a sink, make sure to block the drain first. More than one pet betta has gone down the drain. 2) Set a timer to remind yourself about the heater. Its a little too easy to walk away from the fish tank and not plug the heater back in. Technorati Tags: betta aquarium, betta fish care, betta fish tank, betta tank, betta water, caring for
betta, siamese fighting fish care

General Care for Brackish Water Fish

Left to right, Archerfish, Green Scat, and Spotted Puffer.

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By Tony Griffitts
What is brackish water?
Brackish water fish are normally found where rivers, streams, and creeks meet the ocean. These bodies of water could be river deltas, mangrove swamps, bays, and other coastline bodies of water where the saltwater mixes with freshwater runoff from land masses.

List of fish that are commonly sold that live in brackish water:
Molly, Scat, Mono, Spotted Puffer, Figure Eight Puffer, Dragon Goby, Mudskippers, Four-eyed Fish, Bumble Bee Goby, Glassfish, Archer Fish, Black Fin Shark Catfish, Needle-nose Gar, Chromide, Datniode (aka. Siamese Tiger Fish), Freshwater Snowflake Moray Eel.

Water:
Water should contain at a minimum, 1 tablespoon of salt per gallon. Ocean water contains about 8 tablespoons of salt per gallon. Ideal salt content for most brackish water fish is around 4 tablespoons of salt per gallon. Salt content can be measured with a hydrometer. Freshwater measures 1.000, and seawater measures around 1.023 specific gravity. A salinity of 1.012, equates to about half freshwater and half seawater. The best salt to use is the synthetic sea salt sold for use in marine aquariums. Regular aquarium salt can also be used, but it lacks other minerals used to buffer the water so a basic or alkaline pH can be maintained.

Temperature:
70 to 85F

pH:
7.8 to 8.3

Habitat/Proper Aquarium Set up:

Aquarium should have coral or aragonite sand to help maintain a high pH. The aquarium can be decorated with rocks, caves, and plastic plants if so desired. Most live aquarium plants cannot tolerate salt levels needed to maintain healthy brackish water fish.

Food:
Most brackish water fish will eat most frozen foods like brine shrimp, bloodworms, mysis shrimp, krill, and plankton. Most will also eat dry foods. Live foods like tubifex worms, ghost shrimp, and goldfish can also be offered to many of the species of fish.

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Special Note:
Many of the species of brackish water fish can also live in marine aquariums. Many of the brackish water fish are marine fish (i.e. Monos, Scats, Freshwater Snowflake MAngel Fishesoray Eel, Figure 8 Puffer, Spotted Puffer) that will enter freshwater to find food
AnAngel Fishesgel Fishes

Bicolor Angelfish Coral Beauty Angelfish Eibli Angelfish Flame Angel Fish Lemonpeel Angelfish Potters Angelfish
Blenny Fishes

Bicolor Blenny Mandarinfish Scooter Blenny

Cardinals

Banggai Cardinalfish Pajama Cardinalfish

Damsels/Clownfish

Blue Damselfish Blue-Green Chromis Fire Clownfish Maroon Clownfish Ocellaris Clownfish Saddleback Clownfish Tomato Clownfish Yellow Tail Damsel Fish
Fairy Wrasses

Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse

Goby Fishes

Firefish Goby

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Green Clown Goby Orange Spotted Sleeper Goby Rainford's Goby Yellow Watchman Goby Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby
Grammas/Basslets

Black Cap Basslet Royal Gramma

Tangs/Surgeonfish

Blue Tang Purple Sailfin Tang Sailfin Tang Yellow Tang

Triggerfish

Blue Throat Trigger Niger Trigger

Wrasses

Bird Wrasse Lunare Wrasse Six Line Wrasse

Advertisements Saltwater Fish Species Section

Welcome to the saltwater fish species section of the Reeftime.com marine species profile database. Click on a link to the left to find out detailed information about a particular species of marine fish. If you are looking for information about a particular fish species and cannot find it in our database, please fill out our form to request an addition to the marine species database.

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Bicolor Angelfish (Centropyge bicolor) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Centropyge bicolor

Alt Scientific Name: Chaetodon bicolor

Common Name: Bicolor Angelfish

Alt Common Name: Bi-Color Angelfish, Oriole Angelfish

Group: Angel Fish (Angel Fishes)

Family: Pomacanthidae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific

Adult Size: 6 inches (15.2cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons

Temperament: Timid and skittish.

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Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 2/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.022 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: All Centropyge consume a considerable amount of microalgae and detritus, therefore it pays to not be too meticulous in keeping their system sterile. Allow algae to grow on the surface of all non-viewing panels of the system and decor. However dried flakes, frozen fares and fresh greens will be readily accepted. A varied diet will ensure healthy colouration and metabolic developement. Reef Compatibility: Bicolour angels much like all angelfish, are constant and voracious feeders.

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Additional Information : Thought by many to be the most striking of the Centropyge group of dwarf or pygmy angelfish, the Bicolor Angelfish, also known as the Two-colored Angelfish or Oriole Angelfish, is a vibrant yellow on the anterior half of its body and a deep blue on the posterior half. A splash of deep blue extends upward vertically from the eye to the top of the head, and the tail is yellow.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Dwarf angels are known prey items for many larger reef fishes. Which explains their inquisitive and alert behaviour. Placing these fish with larger predatory species should be avoided (ie: Groupers/Bass, Lionfish, Triggers). Correspondingly, smaller docile tankmates should be avoided. As they will tend to get chased around the tank regularly. Although many keepers have successfully housed Bicolour angels with smaller species, caution should still be considered. Dwarf angels are best introduced into communities last or close to it.

Breeding Information: The species has been bred in captivity with some young being raised to small size.

Determining Sex: As with other dwarf angels they are synchronous protogynic hermaphrodites. They start out sexually undifferentiated, develop into females, and with environmental influences will develop into males. Males are typically larger.

Primary Area in Tank: All over.

AnCoral Beauty Angelfish (Centropyge bispinosus) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Centropyge bispinosus

Alt Scientific Name:

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Common Name: Coral Beauty Angelfish

Alt Common Name: Coral Beauty, Dusky Angelfish, Twospined Angelfish

Group: Angel Fish (Angel Fishes)

Family: Pomacanthidae

Distribution: Indo Pacific; Scattered reef areas in the tropical central to western Pacific; Hawaii, Society Islands, Australia, New Guinea, Philippines and Guam. Although survival records for captive Coral Beauties taken from the Phillipines have been considered poor.

Adult Size: 4 inches (10.2cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons

Temperament: Sometimes timid but can also be aggressive with smaller tank mates.

Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 2/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 238

74

76

78

80

82

84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.025 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Dwarf angels, unlike their larger brethren are notably not as dependent on sponge materials for nutrition. Algae is very important, and accounts for nearly 70% of their total intake in natural habitats. Some keepers will culture rocks within a refugium system, allowing them to overgrow with algae and then placing them within the main tank for feeding. However dried flakes, frozen fares and fresh greens will be readily accepted. A varied diet will ensure healthy colouration and metabolic development.

Additional Information : The Coral Beauty is a stunningly colorful Dwarf Angelfish. Its body is mostly dark blue while the sides of its body has an undercolor of reds, yellows and oranges with narrow blue bars. These fish do very well in aquariums and prefer lots of rockwork to feel comfortable. The Coral Beauty Angel should be kept in a tank of 50 gallons or larger, so it'll have ample room to roam. They will spend most of their day grazing algae that grows on live rock. They should not be kept with other Dwarf Angels and only one should be kept per tank. The Angelfish family is a group of colorful and elegant fish that are adored by both the serious and casual observer. These fish are mainly available to the hobbyist under the Genus Pomacanthus and Centropyge. Pomacanthus Angels are the larger more robust species. The Centropyge Genus are made up of smaller fish that feed primarily on algae from the reef surface. The adult Pomacanthus Angels usually have long dorsal and anal fins and a rounded face. The Pomacanthus Angels will change color quite dramatically from their juvenile stage to adult stage. The Centropyge Angels are found predominantly in the Indo-Pacific while only a couple of species, like the Pygmy and Flameback Angels, are found in the Atlantic and Caribbean. At the same time, the Pomacanthus Angels dominate the Atlantic and Caribbean while in the Indo-Pacific they are less prominent. The Centropyge Angels do not change color dramatically from their juvenile stage to adult stage. These smaller Angels are often seen milling around reefs which they use for both shelter and as a food source. Angelfish are differentiated from Butterflyfish by the small spine that extends from the bottom of their rear gill cover.

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Tank Mate Compatibility : Timid; Dwarf angels are known prey items for many larger reef fishes. Which explains their inquisitive and alert behaviour. Placing these fish with larger predatory species should be avoided (ie: Groupers/Bass, Lionfish, Triggers). Correspondingly, smaller docile tankmates should be avoided. As they will tend to get chased around the tank regularly. Although many keepers have successfully housed Coral angels with smaller species, caution should still be considered. Dwarf angels are best introduced into communities last or close to it.

Breeding Information: The species has been bred in captivity with some young being raised to small size.

Determining Sex: As with other dwarf angels they are synchronous protogynic hermaphrodites. They start out sexually undifferentiated, develop into females, and with environmental influences will develop into males. Males are typically larger.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

Eibli Angelfish (Centropyge eibli) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Centropyge eibli

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Eibli Angelfish

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Alt Common Name: Eibli's Angelfish, Red Stripe Angelfish, Blacktail Angelfish

Group: Angel Fish (Angel Fishes)

Family: Pomacanthidae

Distribution: Various reefs throughout the eastern Indian Ocean

Adult Size: 4 inches (10.2cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons

Temperament: Generally Peaceful, but will likely attack other angel fish.

Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 2/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

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pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivorous - A varied diet is key to the health and longevity of the Eibli's Angelfish. Diet should include flake foods, pellet foods, frozen omnivourous foods, sheets of nori and mysis shrimp.

Additional Information : The Eibli's Angelfish is one of the more reef safe angel fishes. With that being said, it is still an angelfish and may nip at corals and sessile invertebrates. For this reason we have classified the Eibli's Angelsfish as Low Risk for reef safety. If you decide to add an Eibli's Angelfish to your reef tank, check often for nipped corals. Typically if this fish is fed well it will be a model citizen. The Eibli's Angelfish has a light gray body with a black tail. Often the tips of the fins will be a vibrant blue color. The Eibli's Angelfish also has vertical orange stripes on it's sides and a yellow or orange color to it's pelvic fins.

Tank Mate Compatibility : The Eibli's Angelfish is typically a good community fish. Do not place with more aggressive fishes.

Breeding Information: No known way to breed in home aquariums.

Determining Sex: No known way to determine visually.

Primary Area in Tank: All over.

gFlame Angel Fish (Centropyge loricula) Profile Information

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Scientific Name: Centropyge loricula

Alt Scientific Name: Holacanthus loriculus

Common Name: Flame Angel Fish

Alt Common Name: Flame Angelfish, Dwarf Flame Angelfish, Dwarf Angel, Flame Angel

Group: Angel Fish (Angel Fishes)

Family: Pomacanthidae

Distribution: Pacific Western; Scattered reef areas in the tropical central to western Pacific; Hawaii, Society Islands, Australia, New Guinea, Philippines and Guam.

Adult Size: 4 inches (10.2cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

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Temperament: May become territorial and aggressive towards other dwarf angelfish and may even bully other, smaller tank mates. You may have better luck introducing them last into the tank.

Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 2/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.021 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Dwarf angels, unlike their larger brethren are notably not as dependent on sponge materials for nutrition. Algae is very important, and accounts for nearly 70% of their total intake in natural habitats. Some keepers will culture rocks within a refugium system, allowing them to overgrow with algae and then placing them within the main tank for feeding. However dried flakes, frozen fares and fresh greens will be readily accepted. A varied diet will ensure healthy colouration and metabolic development.

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Additional Information : One of the most colorful and attractive of the commonly available marine angelfishes is the Dwarf Flame Angel fish. It has a striking red or orange body with vertical black bars in the mid section. The good news is that the Flame Angel fish only gets to be about 4 inches (10 cm) or so and can be the prize specimen in any tank. The bad news is that they can be fairly expensive, they don't ship very well, and may bully other dwarf angelfishes or smaller tank mates. Flame Angel fish need a tank with moderate to high water circulation, better than average water quality (very low or zero nitrates) and plenty of live rock. They will graze on the live rock in between meals and use any hiding places provided by the live rock when they feel threatened. When it comes to eating, they are not as picky as some other saltwater fish. They seem to really like the frozen marine foods, live and flake foods. Definitely plan on using some dried algae supplements if not enough is present on the live rock in your tank to avoid any nutritional disorders. Unfortunately, Flame Angels are often shipped with some type of saltwater fish disease and the use a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank is a must. Because Flame Angel fish can be quite expensive (though not as expensive as some of the larger saltwater angelfish) it is a good idea to ask the fish store to hold them for a couple of weeks before you bring them home. As far as reef tank compatibility goes, some reefers have kept them with no problems at all and some had to remove them because they were picking at the corals or clams.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Timid; Dwarf angels are known prey items for many larger reef fishes. Which explains their inquisitive and alert behaviour. Placing these fish with larger predatory species should be avoided (ie: Groupers/Bass, Lionfish, Triggers). Correspondingly, smaller docile tankmates should be avoided. As they will tend to get chased around the tank regularly. Although many keepers have successfully housed Flame angels with smaller species, caution should still be considered. Dwarf angels are best introduced into communities last or close to it.

Breeding Information: It is very difficult to breed Flame Angels and there are very few reported sucesses of breeding in an aquarium.

Determining Sex: It can be very difficult to determine any external differences between male and female. Males might be larger and slightly more colorful.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

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This Lemonpeel Angelfish data sheet gives you basic information about the common names, scientific names and water parameters required by this species. In addition, you can find Lemonpeel Angelfish information such as diet, determining sex, breeding, distribution and compatibility.

Advertisements Angel Fishes

Bicolor Angelfish Coral Beauty Angelfish Eibli Angelfish Flame Angel Fish Lemonpeel Angelfish Potters Angelfish
Blenny Fishes

Bicolor Blenny Mandarinfish Scooter Blenny

Cardinals

Banggai Cardinalfish Pajama Cardinalfish

Damsels/Clownfish

Blue Damselfish Blue-Green Chromis Fire Clownfish Maroon Clownfish

246

Ocellaris Clownfish Saddleback Clownfish Tomato Clownfish Yellow Tail Damsel Fish
Fairy Wrasses

Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse

Goby Fishes

Firefish Goby Green Clown Goby Orange Spotted Sleeper Goby Rainford's Goby Yellow Watchman Goby Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby
Grammas/Basslets

Black Cap Basslet Royal Gramma

Tangs/Surgeonfish

Blue Tang Purple Sailfin Tang Sailfin Tang Yellow Tang

Triggerfish

Blue Throat Trigger Niger Trigger

Wrasses

Bird Wrasse Lunare Wrasse Six Line Wrasse

Lemonpeel Angelfish (Centropyge flavissimus) Profile Information

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Scientific Name: Centropyge flavissimus Alt Scientific Name: Holacanthus flavissimus Common Name: Lemonpeel Angelfish Alt Common Name: Lemon Peel Angelfish, Lemonpeel Angel Fish Group: Angel Fish (Angel Fishes) Family: Pomacanthidae Distribution: Indo-Pacific - Various reef areas in the tropical central to western Pacific; Hawaii, Australia, New Guinea, Philippines, Indian Ocean, Christmas islands and Guam Adult Size: 6 inches (15.2cm) Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallons Temperament: Peaceful Care Difficulty: 7/10 Very Easy Reef Safety Score : 1/3 Not Safe High Risk Low Risk Reef Safe Moderate Very Difficult

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8 76 78 80 82 84

248

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.021 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Herbivorous - Feed vegetable based flake or pellet foods supplimented with dry sheets of nori, frozen and live foods. Additional Information : The Lemonpeel Angelfish is a very popular fish in the marine aquarium hobby. They are bright yellow in color with a striking blue ring around their eyes and along their operculum. Juveniles often have a dark spot on their sides. This dark spot will have the same blue ring around it as their eyes. This fish has a bad reputation as a poor survivor. This is likely due to reef farmers using cyanide to capture them. It is reported that Lemonpeel Angelfish caught in the Indian Ocean have more survivability because it is less likely cyanide was used to capture them. This is one of the more nippy of the dwarf angels fishes. As such, it is not recommended that this fish be placed in a reef tank. The Lemonpeel Angelfish ha been reported to nip both corals and clams. Tank Mate Compatibility : The Lemonpeel Angelfish is typically a good community fish. Do not place with more aggressive fishes. Breeding Information: No known way to breed in the confines of home aquaria. Determining Sex: No known way to determine visually. Primary Area in Tank: All over.

Advertisements Angel Fishes

Bicolor Angelfish Coral Beauty Angelfish

249

Eibli Angelfish Flame Angel Fish Lemonpeel Angelfish Potters Angelfish

Blenny Fishes

Bicolor Blenny Mandarinfish Scooter Blenny

Cardinals

Banggai Cardinalfish Pajama Cardinalfish

Damsels/Clownfish

Blue Damselfish Blue-Green Chromis Fire Clownfish Maroon Clownfish Ocellaris Clownfish Saddleback Clownfish Tomato Clownfish Yellow Tail Damsel Fish
Fairy Wrasses

Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse

Goby Fishes

Firefish Goby Green Clown Goby Orange Spotted Sleeper Goby Rainford's Goby Yellow Watchman Goby Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby
Grammas/Basslets

Black Cap Basslet Royal Gramma

Tangs/Surgeonfish

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Blue Tang Purple Sailfin Tang Sailfin Tang Yellow Tang

Triggerfish

Blue Throat Trigger Niger Trigger

Wrasses

Bird Wrasse Lunare Wrasse Six Line Wrasse

Potters Angelfish (Centropyge potteri) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Centropyge potteri Alt Scientific Name: Holacanthus potteri Common Name: Potters Angelfish Alt Common Name: Potters Angel, Russet Angelfish Group: Angel Fish (Angel Fishes) Family: Pomacanthidae Distribution: Reef systems around Hawaii Adult Size: 5 inches (12.7cm) Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons Temperament: Timid and peaceful. Will likely fight with other angel fishes so do not add more than one angelfish unless you have a large reef tank. Care Difficulty: 7/10

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Very Easy Reef Safety Score : 2/3 Not Safe High Risk

Moderate

Very Difficult

Low Risk

Reef Safe

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8 76 78 80 82 84

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Herbivorous - Feed vegetable based flake or pellet foods supplimented with dry sheets of nori, frozen and live foods. Additional Information : The potters angelfish is a notoriously poor shipper. If the fish survives shipment and is placed in an established reef tank then it is a fairly hardy species. The potters angelfish is found at depths greater than a typical reef fish. Adults are found as far as 150 feet below the surface and juveniles are found about 15 feet below the surface. Like other members of this genus it is solitary and stays close to shelter. They generally dart from crevice to crevice exposing themselves for only brief periods of time. Tank Mate Compatibility : The Potters Angelfish is typically a good community fish. Do not place with more aggressive fishes. Breeding Information: No known way to breed in captivity. Determining Sex: As with other dwarf angels they are synchronous protogynic hermaphrodites. Primary Area in Tank: All over
Mandarinfish (Synchiropus splendidus) Profile Information

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Scientific Name: Synchiropus splendidus

Alt Scientific Name: Callionymus splendidus, Neosynchiropus splendidus, Pterosynchiropus splendidus

Common Name: Mandarinfish

Alt Common Name: Mandarin Goby, Psychedelic Fish, Psychedelic Goby, Mandarin Dragonet

Group: Blennies (Blenny Fishes)

Family: Callionymidae

Distribution: Western Pacific reefs

Adult Size: 2.5 inches (6.4cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons

Temperament: Generally peaceful, but males of the same species will fight viciously.

Care Difficulty: 9/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

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Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 80F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivorous - This fish lives solely off interstital crustacean and worm life often called copepods. Because of this the mandarin should only be placed in a well established reef system of at least 150 gallons.

Additional Information : A beautiful and peaceful fish - the mandarin goby would seem like the perfect reef fish. This fish can be quite difficult to keep alive due to its limited diet of copepods.

Tank Mate Compatibility : The mandarinfish will do well with non aggressive tank mates, but two male mandarinfish should never be mixed. This normally docile fish will fight viciously with another male mandarinfish.

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Breeding Information: While some reef keepers have successfully bred mandarinfish, it is unknown what types of food the fry can eat and live off of.

Determining Sex: Males have a spike on the first dorsal fin.

Primary Area in Tank: Bottom

Banggai Cardinalfish (Pterapogon kauderni) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Pterapogon kauderni

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Banggai Cardinalfish

Alt Common Name: Banggai Cardinal, Banggai Cardinal Fish

Group: Cardinalfish (Cardinals)

Family: Apogonidae

Distribution: Indonesia

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Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Temperament: Territorial - May be aggressive with other cardinalfish.

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 72F - 79F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

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Diet Information: The Banggai Cardinalfish should be fed a well balanced diet of meaty foods such as feeder shrimp, marine flesh, bloodworms, and depending on its size, live feeder fish.

Additional Information : The Banggai Cardinal Fish, sometimes referred to as Kaudern's Cardinal Fish is a remarkable looking specimen having a silver body with vertical black stripes. It's body is covered in small white spots that are more easily seen on the dorsal, pelvic, anal and caudal fins. It is interesting to note that Banggai Cardinal Fish are only found in a rather small area around Banggai Island off Sulawesi. This fish is very close to being placed on the endangered species list because of over collection. Before you purchase this fish, ask the retailer where they come from. If they say that is was wild caught, please don't buy them. Only buy captive raised or aquacultured specimens. Doing so will help those wanting and willing to aqua culture this species and we definitely want to reward these breeders. Another benefit from getting captive raised Banggai Cardinal Fish is that they usually acclimate much easier than wild caught fish.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Other peaceful marine fish.

Breeding Information: Benggai cardinals are one of the easier saltwater species to breed. The males are mouth brooders which should increase the chances of successfully raising the young. The difficult part is figuring out if you have a pair. You may only be able to accurately tell once they've paired off. If you're really interested in breeding this fish and you have the appropriate equipment and tank setups you can buy a group of 3 and see if 2 of the 3 start to pair off. If they do, you may also notice them going after the third cardinal fish. If this happens and they are in a smaller tank, you will need to remove the third before it is hassled to death. If you they end up breeding you may notice that the mouth on the male will be bulging at the jawline and they aren't eating anything. They won't even go after their favorite foods! The male will mouth brood the fish and then release them after 20 days or slightly longer.

Determining Sex: The best way to determine sex is by behavioral observations. Same sex benggai cardinalfish tend to fight one another.

Primary Area in Tank: All over - usually out in the open.

el FPajama Cardinalfish (Sphaeramia nematoptera) Profile Information

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Scientific Name: Sphaeramia nematoptera

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Pajama Cardinalfish

Alt Common Name: Spotted Cardinalfish, Polka-dot Cardinalfish, Coral Cardinalfish, Pajama Cardinal, Spotted Cardinal

Group: Cardinalfish (Cardinals)

Family: Apogonidae

Distribution: Western Pacific

Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons

258

Temperament: Generally peaceful - these fish enjoy a small school of 3 or more.

Care Difficulty: 4/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Wild pajama cardinals feed on small crustaceans at night. In captivity they will accept most meaty frozen foods and sometimes even flakes or pellets, though live mysis shrimp and amphipods are preferred. As these fish are nocturnal, they are not always willing to accept food during the daytime. Housing them with diurnal tankmates who are aggressive feeders may mean that the cardinals have to be fed at night or during a "twilight" period.

259

Additional Information : The Pajama Cardinalfish, also known as Polka-dot Cardinalfish or Spotted Cardinalfish, has a greenish-yellow face with orange eyes. The midsection is silver with bold, black scalar margins and the posterior section of the body is silver with orange polka-dots.

Tank Mate Compatibility : These cardinalfish will not bother most tankmates or each other. Though they maintain a social hierarchy, they are not aggressive towards each other like the Banggai cardinalfish. Do not house pajama cardinals with large predators, as they are easy prey fish. Small shrimp may be looked on as food items by larger cardinals.

Breeding Information: After a pair has formed and produced eggs, the male will store them in his mouth. They take about a week to hatch, after which the young fish will become planktonic larvae. Pajama cardinalfish fry have been successfully raised in captivity, though captive-bred fish are not readily available for sale.

Determining Sex: No method is proven for determining sex, but many believe males tend to have larger mouths.

Primary Area in Tank: All over.

iBlue Damselfish (Chrysiptera cyanea) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Chrysiptera cyanea

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Blue Damselfish

260

Alt Common Name: Blue Damsel, Blue Devil, Blue Devil Damselfish

Group: Damselfish (Damsels/Clownfish)

Family: Pomacentridae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific, Australian Pacific

Adult Size: 2.5 inches (6.4cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons

Temperament: Like all damselfish, they can be territorial and aggressive, especially as they get older. These can be kept in groups if you are careful about the sex ratio, one male to several females. Can be kept with other larger fish but watch them closely to be sure their aggression doesn't become destructive.

Care Difficulty: 1/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84 261

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivorous - does well with marine flake or pellet foods.

Additional Information : The Blue Devil Damselfish, also known as the Blue Damselfish, is the Molly of saltwater aquariums. It is a very colorful, hardy, and active fish. The female is all blue; the male has an orange tail, and is known by the common name of Orangetail Blue Damselfish. In the wild, Blue Devil Damselfish are found throughout reefs, usually busy defending a small territory. The Blue Devil Damselfish has the ability to hide in a hole or crevice and darken to an almost black color. This usually happens when it is threatened. After the perceived threat is gone, it will turn electric blue in a matter of seconds. The Blue Devil Damselfish is somewhat aggressive, so its housing should be able to easily accommodate multiple specimens. It is a good fish for beginners, and makes an ideal companion fish for a saltwater tank of over 10 gallons, and as a great companion for reefs and invertebrates. As the fish matures it may become aggressive, causing problems with the selection of other species to be added to the aquarium. If keeping with other damselfish, provide multiple hiding places to break up territories and decrease aggression. The Blue Devil Damselfish diet should consist of flaked and frozen foods, and herbivore preparations. The Blue Devil Damselfish is probably the best selling marine fish in the United States. Its hardiness and small size make it the most common fish among beginning hobbyists.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Use caution when selecting tank mates. Avoid keeping them with other damsels but if you do, introduce at the same time to limit territorial aggression. May harass other tank mates that come into their territory.

Breeding Information: Breeding is possible in home aquariums provided a male and female pair can be achieved.

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Determining Sex: Blue Damselfish are sexually dimorphic. The females are entirely blue without any yellow or orange coloration, some females depending on localities have a black ocellus on the lower posterior part of the dorsal fin. Also they have nearly translucent fins (see photo at the top of this page), versus totally blue fins in males.

Primary Area in Tank: All over.

sBlue-Green Chromis (Chromis viridis) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Chromis viridis

Alt Scientific Name: Pomacentrus viridis

Common Name: Blue-Green Chromis

Alt Common Name: Blue-Green Damsel, Blue-Green Danselfish

Group: Damselfish (Damsels/Clownfish)

Family: Pomacentridae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific

263

Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons

Temperament: Generally peaceful.

Care Difficulty: 1/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

264

Diet Information: The diet should be varied and consist of meaty items, herbivore flakes, and frozen preparations. Using vitamin-enriched foods may help to preserve the bright color.

Additional Information : The Blue Green Chromis, sometimes called the Blue-Green Reeffish, or Blue Green Reef Chromis, is found in schools throughout the Indo-Pacific reefs and in the Red Sea. It is a very hardy fish found in a variety of tanks. It is commonly kept long term, in small schools, and used by beginners to learn the hobby. It may also be included in larger schools in show tanks. It is also one of the fish often selected as a tank-cycling fish. It is a peaceful fish, and adds a dramatic effect to the tank. The Blue Green Chromis will live from 8-15 years in an aquarium in water of good quality.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Does well with virtually any non predatory fish.

Breeding Information: Breeding is possible. To encourage breeding, keep a ratio of one male to 4 females.

Determining Sex: No known way to determine visually.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

hessFire Clownfish (Amphiprion ephippium) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Amphiprion ephippium

Alt Scientific Name:

265

Common Name: Fire Clownfish

Alt Common Name: Red Saddleback Anemonefish, Fire Clownfish

Group: Damselfish (Damsels/Clownfish)

Family: Pomacentridae

Distribution: Pacific Western; Common to many island groups in the western Pacific

Adult Size: 5 inches (12.7cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallons

Temperament: Generally peaceful but will fight with other species of clown fish.

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 81F

266

74

76

78

80

82

84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivorous - usually accepts flake or pellet foods but also should recieve meaty foods such as mysis and enriched brine.

Additional Information : Fire Clownfish, Amphiprion ephippium, is one of the more unique and vibrant Clowns available to the aquarium hobbyist. This particular species is unique in that is has an intolerance to copper. If copper must be used, limit treatment to two days. A reef-safe (non-copper) treatment would be strongly preferred should a Fire Clown require medication. Clownfish, also known as Anemonefish, are omnivores that will eat a wide variety of prepared and frozen foods. Brine Shrimp are a favorite treat of these amusing little fish. Clownfish have gained a high level of popularity in the saltwater hobby because of their hardiness and abundance of personality. They will form shoals in the home aquarium with the two dominant fish becoming a pair. The largest Clown is typically the terminal female, the next largest the male, and the others remain juveniles. Small Fire Clownfish will have a white band across the head that disappears with age.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Most other non aggresive fish should be fine. Do NOT mix with any other clownfish species.

Breeding Information: Fire clownfish are one of the easiest to breed saltwater fish. Once a pair is formed, breeding should take place in a host anemone or a surrogate host such as a coral or even a small cave.

267

Determining Sex: Fire clownfish are born asexual and the most dominant fish in a group will become a female. The other fish will become males. The females are larger, more colorful and more dominant. If the female clownfish died or is removed from the aquarium, one of the males will take over the dominant role and become a female.

Primary Area in Tank: All over.

Maroon Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Premnas biaculeatus

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Maroon Clownfish

Alt Common Name: Maroon Anemone fish, Spine Cheek Anemone fish, Yellowstripe Maroon Clownfish, Yellow Stripe Clown Fish, Gold Stripe Maroon Clownfish

Group: Damselfish (Damsels/Clownfish)

Family: Pomacentridae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific

268

Adult Size: 6 inches (15.2cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Temperament: This species can be quite territorial - particularly if hosting an anemone. They may be aggressive with other Clownfishes in most tank setups and might bully smaller tankmates. They will defend their host anemone (if included in tank) aggressively.

Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.025 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

269

Diet Information: Primarily feeds on zooplankton in the ocean but they generally are not very picky when it comes to food. Try to give them a variety of marine preparations. They should accept vitamin enriched flake foods, frozen and definitely live foods.

Additional Information : The Maroon Clown fish is one of many Clownfish species. The scientific name for Maroon Clownfish is Premnas biaculeatus. It is also known as Maroon Anemonefish, Spine-Cheeked Clownfish and Spine-Cheeked Anemonefish. Clownfish are renowned for the symbiotic relationship that they form with various species of sea anemones. Due to this symbiosis, Clownfish are also known as Anemonefish. All the other 26 known Clownfish species belong to the genus Amphiprion, but the Maroon Clownfish belongs to the genus Premnas. Both Amphiprion and Premnas are included in the family Pomacentridae, a family that also includes the Damselfish species. The Maroon Clownfish is a popular aquarium species and it is not very difficult to keep if you known how to keep a basic saltwater aquarium. It is a very beautiful fish and will look stunning in any aquarium set up. The entire body is maroon red and decorated with three very distinct white stripes; one on the forehead, one on the midsection and one just in front of the anal fin. You should ideally not keep your Maroon Clownfish in an aquarium smaller than 30 gallons, and a larger aquarium is even better. A Maroon Clownfish can reach a size of 4-6 inches. In the wild, Maroon Clownfish will always try to find an anemone that can protect it from predators, but in an aquarium with no predators around an anemone is not mandatory. You should however provide your Maroon Clownfish with some other type of safe place in the tank, since a barren aquarium can make the fish feel stressed. Keeping an anemone is hard and should not be tried if you are a beginner saltwater aquarist, but when you feel more confident the anemoneclownfish relationship can be highly fascinating. Always carefully research the anemone species that you are interested in before you get one, since anemones have particular requirements that differs from the typical fish requirements. If you provide your Maroon Clownfish with an anemone species that it has never before encountered, the fish will need some time to adjust to the new anemone. During this acclimatization period, your Maroon Clownfish will not be protected from the dangerous sting of the anemone. Wild Maroon Clownfish is found in the Indo-Australian waters, including the Philippines, Burma, Malaysia, Thailand, Indonesia, Vanuatu, New Guinea and the Solomon Islands. The water temperature in the aquarium should therefore be between 75 and 82 F and the pH between 8.1 and 8.4. Keep the sg in the 1.020-1.025 range and the dKH between 8 and 12. Maroon Clownfish can be aggressive, especially towards other Clownfish regardless of species. Housing it with other Clownfish is therefore unadvisable unless you have a very large and well decorated aquarium. A male and a female can however do well together if they are compatible. The Maroon Clownfish will usually only display severe aggressive behavior toward non-clownfish species if a fish tries to venture into the territory claimed by the Maroon Clownfish. Since clownfish species typically form very small territories around a single anemone, this is usually not a problem in the aquarium as long as you decorate it wisely. Since the Maroon Clownfish is a predator, it should naturally not be kept with fish that is small enough to be considered pray. Wild Maroon Clownfish will use its vivid coloration to attract predators that will be stung, killed and eaten by the anemone. When the anemone is finished, the Maroon Clownfish will eat the leftovers. It will also clean the

270

anemone from dead tentacles by eating them. In an aquarium, you can feed your Maroon Clownfish meaty foods, e.g. fish, shellfish and shrimps. It is an omnivore and requires some herbivore food in addition to the meat. Never catch your Maroon Clownfish in a net when you need to move it, since you might entangle and injure its cheekspines. A specimen container is a better choice.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Use caution when selecting tank mates. It's probably not wise to keep them with Lionfish or Triggers large enough to eat them. Also avoid keeping them with smaller more peaceful tankmates because the maroon clowns may bully them.

Breeding Information: This fish has been successfully bred in captivity with many tank raised specimens being offered for sale. Once paired off, the pair will clean off a suitable spot (flat rock) and then place the eggs in this location and defend the area aggressively.

Determining Sex: Males are generally smaller, more red and less aggressive than the female. This fish has the ability to change it's sex when the top female dies. A larger male will turn into a female.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

Ocellaris Clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Amphiprion ocellaris

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Ocellaris Clownfish

271

Alt Common Name: False Percula Clownfish, False Percula, False Clown, False Clownfish, Percula Clownfish, Nemo Fish

Group: Damselfish (Damsels/Clownfish)

Family: Pomacentridae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific

Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons

Temperament: Generally peaceful but will fight with other species of clown fish.

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 79F 74 76 78 80 82 84

272

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.022 - 1.028 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivorous - usually accepts flake or pellet foods but also should recieve meaty foods such as mysis and enriched brine.

Additional Information : Probably the most recognized marine fish, the false percula clown is often the fish that draws new people into saltwater aquariums. This species has a symbiotic relationship with anemones. In nature neither the clownfish or the anemone would live long without one another. In aquariums, this relationship is not generally needed because of a lack of predators for both clowns and anemones. The occelaris clownfish is an excellent species for beginners because it is generally hearty and undemanding.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Most other non aggresive fish should be fine. Do NOT mix with any other clownfish species.

Breeding Information: Ocellaris clownfish are one of the easiest to breed saltwater fish. Once a pair is formed, breeding should take place in a host anemone or a surrogate host such as a coral or even a small cave.

Determining Sex: Ocellaris clownfish are born asexual and the most dominant fish in a group will become a female. The other fish will become males. The females are larger, more colorful and more dominant. If the female clownfish died or is removed from the aquarium, one of the males will take over the dominant role and become a female.

273

Primary Area in Tank: All over

Saddleback Clownfish (Amphiprion polymnus) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Amphiprion polymnus

Alt Scientific Name: Perca polymna

Common Name: Saddleback Clownfish

Alt Common Name: Saddle Back Clownfish, Black Saddleback Clownfish, Brown Saddleback Clownfish

Group: Damselfish (Damsels/Clownfish)

Family: Pomacentridae

Distribution: Pacific Western; Western Pacific; Ryukyu Islands to the Gulf of Thailand, Indonesia. Northern Australia and Solomon Islands.

Adult Size: 5 inches (12.7cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallons

274

Temperament: This species is quite territorial and may attack other fish that encroach. This territorial behavior is stronger with other clownfish and can be increased with the addition of an anemone.

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 81F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivorous - This species routinely accepts most foods such as flake and pellet. A varied diet including frozen foods will help to ensure health.

275

Additional Information : Good beginner species, they will readily accept all foods. Tank raised species usually fare best. Although prices for tank raised species tend to be higher than wild caught, they have much higher survival records. If you wish to get an anemone for your clown, it is best to try and find one that has already hosted with an anemone and purchase them together. Attempting to add an anemone at a later date (even if the anemone purchased is the best possible host species) will not guarantee that the clown with take to the anemone.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Can be territorial but generally only gets aggressive with other clownfish. You should not mix clownfish species unless you have a very large tank - on the order of 200 gallons.

Breeding Information: One of the easier saltwater fish to breed. Raising young can prove difficult due to finding acceptable food sources.

Determining Sex: Clownfish are born asexual and the most dominant fish in a group will become a female. The other fish will become males. The females are larger, more colorful and more dominant. If the female clownfish died or is removed from the aquarium, one of the males will take over the dominant role and become a female.

Primary Area in Tank: All over.

Tomato Clownfish (Amphiprion frenatus) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Amphiprion frenatus

Alt Scientific Name:

276

Common Name: Tomato Clownfish

Alt Common Name: Tomato Clownfish, Anemone Fish, Red Clownfish, Bridled Clownfish

Group: Damselfish (Damsels/Clownfish)

Family: Pomacentridae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific to Oceania

Adult Size: 5 inches (12.7cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Temperament: Can be peaceful but will become aggressive with other fish that approach it's space. Avoid mixing the various clown species. If you have a mix of different clown species in your tank, they will fight. If you have a host anemone in the aquarium with them, they will defend it. It usually works out best if you have only one or a pair of clowns in your tank.

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

277

Temperature Range: 72F - 80F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.025 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Primarily feeds on zooplankton in the ocean but they generally are not very picky when it comes to food. Try to give them a variety of marine preparations. They should accept vitamin enriched flake foods, frozen and definitely live foods.

Additional Information : Tomato clownfish are readily available and are very hardy, making them a great choice as a beginner fish. You can usually find them at local pet stores for $10 - $20 and even cheaper online. Breeders are breeding this fish in captivity which should (hopefully) lower this price even more. A quarantine tank is a necessity as this fish is susceptible to most saltwater disease, especially marine ich (cryptocaryon) and brooklynella. Use extreme caution before using copper medications because clownfish are very sensitive to copper. The tomato clownfish will eat most fish foods that you place in the tank. Flakes, freeze dried, frozen and live foods are eaten with gusto. Try to provide a variety of foods for optimum health and coloration. They can be territorial with other fish that approach their space in the tank. They may also scrap with other clownfish species in the same tank and for this reason it is advisable to only keep one species in your tank. If you have an extremely large tank you may be able to keep more than one clown species in your aquarium. They may also fight with other tomato clownfish in the same tank. Tomato Clownfish do not need an anemone to survive in the home aquarium. Anemones can be beneficial for the clownfish but the host anemones that are found in their natural environment can be difficult to care for in captivity and are not recommended for the saltwater novice.

278

Tank Mate Compatibility : Avoid keeping them in an aquarium with Lionfish, Snappers, Groupers, Triggers, Eels or any other predatory fish large enough to eat them. Keep only one clown species in your aquarium. Do not mix the various clown species.

Breeding Information: They have been bred in captivity and it is usually better to buy a tank raised fish because they will adapt better in the home aquarium.

Determining Sex: All are males when they are born. As they mature and start to pair off the dominant one will change into a female. The female is usually larger than the male and will be the primary defender of their territory.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

Yellow Tail Damsel Fish (Chrysiptera parasema) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Chrysiptera parasema

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Yellow Tail Damsel Fish

Alt Common Name: Goldtail Damsel, Gold Tail Damsel, Yellowtail Blue Damsel, Abudefduf parasema

Group: Damselfish (Damsels/Clownfish)

279

Family: Pomacentridae

Distribution: Western Pacific

Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 12 gallons

Temperament: Territorial and aggressive: Only durable species should be mixed with Damselfishes.

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

280

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivorous - usually accepts flake or pellet foods but also should recieve meaty foods such as mysis and enriched brine.

Additional Information : The Yellow Tail Damsel is a very hardy fish and quite territorial. Many people will use this fish to cycle a new tank, although Reeftime.com does not endorse this practice. Not only does this place undue stress on the fish, but it also sets up a precarious situation for any new inhabitants of the tank. Damsels are so aggressive that once they have their territory staked out, they will likely kill any new additions to the tank.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Damselfish can be housed with a variety of tank mates but because damsels become more aggressive as they mature, smaller or very weak fish are not recommended. Fish types that could be at risk include small juveniles of butterflyfish and Centropyge angelfish, cardinalfish, etc. A group of several individuals of this species can be kept together but only if there are many hiding places, otherwise they may very well fight to death. Some good tank mates include other non-aggressive damselfish, (but not of this genera), larger butterflyfish, and wrasses. Very territorial dottybacks, and such fish as sea basses that will eat anything, are not recommended if the tank is not large enough.

Breeding Information: After establishing a territory, a male damselfish cleans a rocky ledge or coral surface to prepare it for spawning. Using color changes, excited swimming movements, and, in certain species, clicking sounds, the male fish encourages a mature female to approach the spawning site and lay her eggs, which he quickly fertilizes. Courtship and mating take about 10 to 20 minutes. Some males may mate with several females. Each female fish lays up to 20,000 tiny oval eggs, which the male tirelessly guards and tends. He fans water across the eggs with his fins, sometimes picking out dead eggs that could threaten the whole batch. Male damselfish defend their eggs against fish much larger than themselves with little regard for their own safety. The eggs hatch after three to seven days, and the larvae spend weeks drifting and feeding on animal and plant plankton. Some species of damselfish mature at two or three years of age while others take much longer. During courtship rituals vibrant colors distinguish the sexes more clearly.

Determining Sex: Difficult to determine sex by visual inspection. 281

Primary Area in Tank: All over.

Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus carpenteri) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Paracheilinus carpenteri

Alt Scientific Name: Paracheilinus sp.

Common Name: Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse

Alt Common Name: Redfin Flasher Wrasse, Filamented Flasher Wrasse, Carpenter's Fairy Wrasse

Group: Fairy and Flasher Wrasses (Fairy Wrasses)

Family: Labridae

Distribution: Western Pacific reefs

Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallons

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Temperament: Generally peaceful, but multiple males will likely fight and compete over females.

Care Difficulty: 2/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Carnivorous - primarily eats zooplankton in the wild, but should be fed a varied diet of frozen foods such as mysis shrimp, protein based cubes or vegetable based cubes.

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Additional Information : A stunning and lively fish that would make a great addition to any reef tank. The carpenter's flasher wrasse is a great community fish and excellent citizen in a reef tank. Should be kept in harems with one male and several females for the best results and most brilliant color displays. The Carpenter's Flasher Wrasse is a prolific jumper and should only be placed in reef tanks with a top or netting to prevent them from experiencing an untimely death.

Tank Mate Compatibility : The carpenter's flasher wrasse is easily bullied by more dominant or agressive species. It is best to place them in the tank first, and adding other species afterwards.

Breeding Information: No known way to breed in home reef tanks.

Determining Sex: Males are much more vibrant in color and will

Primary Area in Tank: All over

Firefish Goby (Nemateleotris magnifica) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Nemateleotris magnifica

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Firefish Goby

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Alt Common Name: Fire Goby, Fire Fish, Firefish, Fire Fish Goby, Magnificent Dartfish, Fire Dartfish

Group: Gobies (Goby Fishes)

Family: Gobiidae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific

Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Temperament: Peaceful

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 72F - 80F 74 76 78 80 82 84

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pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Along with algae and zooplankton growing in the tank, the diet of the Fire Goby should consist of finely chopped small crustaceans, vitamin-enriched brine fish (live or frozen), mysid shrimp, and prepared foods.

Additional Information : The Fire Goby is also known as the Firefish, Firefish Goby, Magnificent Dartfish, or Fire Dartfish. Its head is yellow, the anterior portion of the body is white, and the posterior portion a pinkish to orangish red. The dorsal, anal, and caudal fins are highlighted in black. In the wild, Fire Gobies are usually found in groups hovering over the reef, harvesting planktonic food that drifts by in the current. Each Fire Goby will have a "bolt-hole," which it quickly ducks into when threatened. Fire Goby have always been one of the more popular fish in the marine hobby. There are two, closely-related fish, the Flame (Purple) Firefish, N. decora and the rarely seen N. helfrichi. Because they try to jump out of the tank, especially if stressed, the Fire Goby requires a 30 gallon tank or larger. Hobbyists who use a halide system with an open top should construct a Plexiglas "edge" around the trim, at least 10" tall. It is generally not aggressive towards other fish except those of its own species; a mated pair can live peacefully. The Fire Goby prefers moderate lighting conditions, with a moderate current passing over the reef.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Does well with any non aggressive fish.

Breeding Information: Egg layer - will breed in captivity.

Determining Sex: Females tend to be smaller and thinner.

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Primary Area in Tank: All over, but can often hide by digging in the sand
Green Clown Goby (Gobiodon atrangulatus) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Gobiodon atrangulatus

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Green Clown Goby

Alt Common Name: Green Gumdrop Goby

Group: Gobies (Goby Fishes)

Family: Gobiidae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific

Adult Size: 2 inches (5.1cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons

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Temperament: Generally peaceful but may become aggressive against other gobies.

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 72F - 80F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.0251 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: The diet of the Green Clown Goby should consist of a variety of brine shrimp, frozen mysid shrimp, table shrimp, and frozen food preparations for carnivores. If housed in a reef tank with live branching corals, it needs to be fed once a day. If housed in a tank without substrate, it will require several feedings per day.

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Additional Information : This species is green overall. Although diminutive, this is a fascinating fish to keep in the aquarium, especially in smaller tanks. It does best if housed with live or faux corals of the branching type. Members of this genus are thought to have a noxious body slime that deters most predatory fishes from feeding on them. Not aggressive towards other fish species, although it may fight with members of its own kind. The number you place in your tank should be a function of how many hiding places in available.

Tank Mate Compatibility : It is best kept with smaller less aggressive species

Breeding Information: Green Clown Gobies are known to successfully spawn in an aquarium, laying eggs that sink into the coral branches where they are protected.

Determining Sex: The males tends to be more brightly colored than females.

Primary Area in Tank: All over - inhabits branching corals.

sssiOrange Spotted Sleeper Goby (Valenciennea puellaris) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Valenciennea puellaris

Alt Scientific Name: Eleotriodes puellaris

Common Name: Orange Spotted Sleeper Goby

Alt Common Name: Orangespotted Sleeper Goby, Orange Diamond Goby, Maiden Goby, Diamond Watchman Goby, Diamond Goby

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Group: Gobies (Goby Fishes)

Family: Gobiidae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific reefs

Adult Size: 7 inches (17.8cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallons

Temperament: Peaceful and timid.

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4

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7.8

8.0

8.2

8.4

8.6

8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Carnivorous - the Orange Spotted Sleep Goby eats by sifting sand through it's mouth and gills. They sift the sand to gather small invertebrates and uneaten bits of food to eat. In a well-established reef this fish will not likely need food, but small sinking pellets are a good suppliment.

Additional Information : The orange spotted sleeper goby is an excellent reef fish. It will not harm corals or other invertebrates, but it can cause some problems with dropping sand on corals as it sifts. If you have LPS corals such as moon stones that will have a problem with sand resting on them, then make sure to place them higher in the tank.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Other peaceful reef fish.

Breeding Information: Not known in captivity.

Determining Sex: No known way to determine visually.

Primary Area in Tank: Bottom to middle of tank.

Rainford's Goby (Amblygobius rainfordi) Profile Information

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Scientific Name: Amblygobius rainfordi

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Rainford's Goby

Alt Common Name: Rainford Goby, Old Glory Goby

Group: Gobies (Goby Fishes)

Family: Gobiidae

Distribution: Western Pacific reefs

Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 12 gallons

Temperament: Peaceful

Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 292

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Reef Safe

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivore; Mainly a sand sifter, continuously searching among sand and rock for copepods and worms. Seen eating filimentous algae, and some insist it is important for their survival to have a crop of algae. Can be coerced into eating frozen mysis and brine shrimp, as well as veggie fares. Feed 2-3 times a day.

Additional Information : Rainford's Goby cruises around the reef looking for tiny invertebrates and grazing on filamentous algae. It can be kept in a peaceful community aquarium with live rock, or in a reef aquarium. You may keep a pair in aquariums of 40 gallons or more.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Does well with other peaceful community fish. Do not keep with hawkfish, sand perches, or aggressive dottybacks which may pick on it.

Breeding Information: Fairly easy to breed once a matched pair is found. Rearing the fry can be difficult because they are very small.

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Determining Sex: No known way to determine visually.

Primary Area in Tank: Bottom of the tank

Yellow Watchman Goby (Cryptocentrus cinctus) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Cryptocentrus cinctus Alt Scientific Name: Smilogobius cinctus Common Name: Yellow Watchman Goby Alt Common Name: Yellow Watchman Prawn, Yellow Shrimp Goby Group: Gobies (Goby Fishes) Family: Gobiidae Distribution: West Pacific - Singapore to Micronesia Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm) Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons Temperament: Generally peaceful but may become territorial with other gobies Care Difficulty: 4/10 Very Easy Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Not Safe High Risk Low Risk Reef Safe Moderate Very Difficult

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F

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74 pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8

76

78

80

82

84

8.0

8.2

8.4

8.6

8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivorous - they will readily accept all foods, preferring meaty fares (ie brine shrimp, mysis), but microalgaes are also a regular food. This species should be fed at least twice daily. Additional Information : These gobies are commonly found in a symbiotic relationship with Pistol shrimp in the genus Alpheus, the shrimp constructing and cleaning a burrow for the goby, while the goby keeps alert for possible threats to the shrimp. These gobies tend to hide often so plenty of live rock should help make them feel secure. Some have reported that this fish has jumped from the tank so an aquarium hood with no escape points is highly suggested. You may be able to keep mated pairs but it is not advisable to keep more than a mated pair of Yellow Watchman Gobies in smaller tanks. They may fight over territory with other goby species. Tank Mate Compatibility : The Yellow Watchman Goby should do fine in most reef tanks, but care should be taken to ensure it does not get eaten by large or aggressive species. Breeding Information: Breeding is easily accomplished once a pair is formed, but feeding the very tiny fry is quite difficult. They require smaller free-swimming food than even baby clownfish. Determining Sex: Males tend to be bright white and females tend to more grey in color. It is unclear if the species is sexually dimorphic but the males and females can both change color. Primary Area in Tank: Bottom-dwelling - likes to dig in sand and under rocks.
Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby (Valenciennea strigata) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Valenciennea strigata 295

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby

Alt Common Name: Blueband Sleeper Goby, Pennant Glider, Pretty Prawn, Orangespotted Sleeper Goby, Golden Head Sleeper, Bluestreak, Sleeper Gold Head Goby

Group: Gobies (Goby Fishes)

Family: Gobidae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific

Adult Size: 7 inches (17.8cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons

Temperament: Territorial with other gobies.

Care Difficulty: 4/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Not Safe High Risk Low Risk Reef 296

Safe

Temperature Range: 72F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: The Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby feeds off the bottom as it sifts through the sand eating mouthfuls of substrate and the food that lives within the sand. The Yellowheaded Sleeper Goby feeds on a variety of live and frozen brine shrimp, mysid shrimp, live black worms, and prepared foods for carnivores, and should be fed frequently.

Additional Information : They are a major sand sifter, picking up large mouthfuls of sand and expelling it through the gill covers, sifting out anything edible. They also take a wide variety of frozen or flake food. Small sinking enriched shrimp meal pellets are an excellent way of keeping them well fed. Some seem to waste away no matter how well fed, which could be a sign of intestinal worms. These fishes are burrow dwellers, and will normally seek protection under low overhanging rocks or actually burrow underneath rock to form a secure home. They should be housed in aquariums with a sandbed of at least two inches in depth and not housed with aggressive fishes such as groupers, dottybacks, triggerfishes or aggressive angelfishes. Usually, they starve to death in closed systems unless there are few competitors for their food supply, or they may simply jump out of the aquarium. Even though they mate for life in the wild, pairs can form in the closed system. Should be maintained in pairs if at all possible. May eat small fishes, such as Neon Gobies.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Does not do well with aggressive fishes

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Breeding Information: The female generally lays about 2000 eggs on the roof of their chamber. She will tend the eggs for three weeks, during which time she will not leave the chamber. Just before hatching occurs the male will seal the entrance to the chamber, sealing in the female. After the eggs have hatched the male will reopen the chamber, at night, freeing the 2-millimeter fry (Debelius 1986). We have not read any reports of successful rearing of the fry, but it seems that it may be possible given enough time and patience. Sleeper gobies, hover gobies and signal gobies can help the aquarist to maintain a clean and healthy substrate. However, you may still have to perform the odd stir-and-siphon routine if problems develop. Although most of these fish are active sifters, they cannot do so with a substrate that is too large, such as dolomite or crushed coral. In fact, these fish may injure themselves trying to handle substrate that is too large or coarse, and bacterial infections may result. The best substrates to use, such as coral sand or finely crushed coral, have grain diameters less than 2 millimeters in diameter. As mentioned above, in order to aid in burrow construction, some larger sized pieces should be mixed in with the finer to provide "building-blocks" for the fish. Now that you know about the species of gobies described here, and the benefits they can provide to your reef tank, what are you waiting for? It's time for goby shopping.

Determining Sex: Male sleeper gobies are easily identified by their elongated second dorsal spine.

Primary Area in Tank: Tends to stay near the bottom of the tank where the substrate is. This species digs burrows to hide in.
Black Cap Basslet (Gramma melacara) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Gramma melacara

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Black Cap Basslet 298

Alt Common Name:

Group: Grammas and Basslets (Grammas/Basslets)

Family: Grammatidae

Distribution: West Atlantic

Adult Size: 4 inches (10.2cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons

Temperament: Generally peaceful - These fish are excellent community tank fish, tending to stay to themselves

Care Difficulty: 2/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 72F - 81F 74 76 78 80 82 84 299

pH Range: 8 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Will readily accept brine shrimp and meaty fares, but will also accept flake and dried foods.

Additional Information : Hoods should be placed on tanks, as these fish are known jumpers. Basslets make great additions for reef tanks, staying small, not bothering invertebrates, and keeping deviant live rock critters, like benthic crustaceans and worms in population check. Basslets require nooks and overhangs for hiding. Liverock decor should be abundant.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Care should be noted if placing more than one of the same species, or any fish in the Pseudchromis and Basslet family (includes Dottyback and Gramma) aggression has been noted. If two are desired, known mated pairs are best otherwise a 6ft system is suggested. Also due to the small size of this species, predatory or larger carnivorous fish will likely consider the black cap basslet a prey item.

Breeding Information:

Determining Sex:

Primary Area in Tank: Middle

Royal Gramma (Gramma loreto) Profile Information

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Scientific Name: Gramma loreto

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Royal Gramma

Alt Common Name: Fairy Basslet

Group: Grammas and Basslets (Grammas/Basslets)

Family: Grammatidae

Distribution: West Atlantic

Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons

Temperament: Peaceful; These fish are excellent community tank fish, tending to stay to themselves.

301

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 3/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 72F - 81F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.022 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Enjoys brine shrimp or other meaty foods. WIll often accept flake or pellet foods.

Additional Information : The Royal Gramma is magenta or purple on the front portion of the body, and yellow on the rear portion. it is a hardy, relatively nonaggressive aquarium fish. It will defend a preferred hiding place from intrusion. An ideal fish for the reef aquarium, this durable fish typically does great in any well maintained aquarium. Grammas can be kept in groups in the aquarium, but they should not be overcrowded and should be of varying sizes.

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Placing one larger fish and several small fish in an aquarium your increasing the chances that you will acquire only one male and several females.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Care should be noted if placing more than one of the same species, or any fish in the Pseudchromis and Basslet family aggression has been noted. If two are desired, known mated pairs are best otherwise a 6ft system is suggested. Also, given the small size of this species, predatory or larger carnivorous fish will likely eat it.

Breeding Information: Pairs are hard to find, but once you have a pair they will readily spawn in aquariums. They require a small cave in which to spawn. When they are ready to spawn they will clean out the caves, line the bottom with Caulerpa and use coral rubble to cover most of the entrance to the cave. Rearing the fry will require rotifers as a starting food followed by brineshrimp.

Determining Sex: There is no known visible difference between the males and females.

Primary Area in Tank: Stays near rocks

Blue Tang (Paracanthurus hepatus) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Paracanthurus hepatus

Alt Scientific Name: Teuthis hepatus

Common Name: Blue Tang

303

Alt Common Name: Blue Surgeonfish, Hepatus Tang, Hippo Tang, Pacific Blue Tang, Palette Surgeonfish, Regal Tang

Group: Acanthuroids (Tangs/Surgeonfish)

Family: Acanthuridae

Distribution: Indo Pacific

Adult Size: 12 inches (30.5cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons

Temperament: Generally peaceful - quite an active fish that needs a lot of swimming room.

Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 2/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 72F - 80F 74 76 78 80 82 84

304

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: It is important that you feed tangs a good variety of live, frozen, and prepared formula foods. The Blue Tang eats zooplankton so they should be fed brine shrimp, mysis, grindal worms, and flake food. It is best to feed small amounts several times a day. Blue tangs also require seaweed and/or algae in their diet so be sure to provide this for them if it is not redily available in the aquarium.

Additional Information : The Pacific Blue Tang is also referred to as the Palette Surgeonfish, Hepatus Tang, Blue Surgeonfish, and Regal Tang. It is a highly prized, beautiful and long-lived Tang. Like most tangs and surgeons, it is easy to recognize because of the oval body shape and bold markings. It has a deep blue color with a "painter's palette" marking on the body. Pacific Blue Tang requires a 70 gallon or larger aquarium with a number of hiding places and plenty of room to swim. It is tolerant of other tangs, but can occasionally be aggressive towards other Blue Tangs. If housing in groups, introduce all at once into a larger aquarium. It is more susceptible to lateral line disease, fin erosion, ich and other skin parasites than many other fish. Although Tangs will eat meaty foods along with the other fish in the aquarium, it is important that they are offered plenty of marine based seaweed and algae. This will strengthen their immune system, reduce aggression and improve their overall health. Offer dried seaweed tied to a rock or use a veggie clip, and feed at least 3 times per week. Sea Veggies, Seaweed Salad and Ocean Nutrition are all ideal products and are very easy to use.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Does well with most other fishes including aggessive fish. Tangs of similar shape should be avoided.

Breeding Information: Breeding is not likely in captivity.

305

Determining Sex: No known way to determine sex visually.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

mPurple Sailfin Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Zebrasoma xanthurum

Alt Scientific Name: Zebrasoma xanthurus

Common Name: Purple Sailfin Tang

Alt Common Name: Purple Tang, Yellowtail Sailfin Tang, Yellowtail Surgeonfish, Yellowtail Tang

Group: Acanthuroids (Tangs/Surgeonfish)

Family: Acanthuridae

Distribution: Indo Pacific

Adult Size: 10 inches (25.4cm) 306

Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons

Temperament: This species is territorial - particularly with other tangs. Do not mix with other tangs.

Care Difficulty: 6/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 2/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Herbivores in the wild, the Purple Tang will graze on any filamentous

307

algae but will also accept prepared foods, dried or frozen. A variety of foods is strongly recommended. A beta-carotene supplement is advised to stave off lateral line disease.

Additional Information : The Purple Tang, also known as the Yellowtail Sailfin Tang, Yellowtail Surgeonfish, and the Blue Surgeonfish, is blue to purple in color with a yellow tail and yellow accents on the pectoral fins. This fish was formally known only to the coral reefs of the Red Sea, but it is now found in the Arabian Sea, the Gulf of Aden and in the waters off Sri Lanka as well. The Purple Tang usually lives singly, but can occasionally be found in schools in the southern Red Sea. Adults can reach a size of 10 inches. The Purple Tang is one of the most prized specimens of all saltwater fish. If housed properly, it is a rewarding and attractive addition to any large fish-only tank. They are also among the most expensive fish in the home aquarium. Be sure to provide good lighting, lots of free swimming space and plenty of potential hiding spots for the Purple Tang. They can be very aggressive and do not fare well with tank mates of similar body shape, especially other Tangs of the genus Zebrasoma. The Purple Tang will graze on algae in the aquarium as well as accepting other prepared foods both frozen and dried. Purple Tangs need vitamin supplements that are high in betacarotene, to help prevent lateral line disease.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Does well with most other fishes including aggessive fish. Tangs of similar shape should be avoided.

Breeding Information: Generally lives singly, but spawns in a group. Breeding is very unlikely in captivity.

Determining Sex: No known way to determine sex visually.

Primary Area in Tank: All over - very active swimmer.

Sailfin Tang (Zebrasoma veliferum) Profile Information

308

Scientific Name: Zebrasoma veliferum

Alt Scientific Name: Acanthurus velifer

Common Name: Sailfin Tang

Alt Common Name: Pacific Sailfin Tang

Group: Acanthuroids (Tangs/Surgeonfish)

Family: Acanthuridae

Distribution: Indo-pacific

Adult Size: 16 inches (40.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons

309

Temperament: This species is generally quite aggressive with other tangs or fish similar in appearance. Can become territorial once adults and may become aggressive with other tank mates.

Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 1/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Primarily Herbivorous but will eat some microinvertibrates - Sailfin tangs are heavy plant eaters. Their constant activity and high metabolism mean that they need to consume a lot of greens to stay healthy. For this reason, it is extremely helpful to have a constant source of algae for these fish to pick at

310

throughout the day. Feedings of algae flakes, dried seaweed, macroalgae, and vegetables such as lettuce help to ensure that these fish get enough plant matter in their diet. These tangs will also happily eat many different frozen foods as well as microinvertibrates.

Additional Information : The Pacific Sailfin Tang is another member of the surgeonfishes and grows to be one of the largest of the commonly available tangs. They will need at least a 150 gallon tank, preferrably larger, to allow for adequate swimming space and to accomodate for their potential adult size of 16 inches. They can be fairly hardy once acclimated but will not do well in a tank that has not completed the nitrogen cycle. Try to add the Pacific Sailfin Tang to a tank that has been set up and running for at least 6 months and use your aquarium test kit to test the water parameters before introducing. You will also need highly oxygenated water provided through increased surface agitation (multiple powerheads) and/or the heavy use of air stones. The Pacific Sailfin Tang is very similar and often confused with the Red Sea Sailfin Tang. The Red Sea Sailfin has more dots at the base of the body and more pronounced white spots covering the front third of the body. The Pacific Sailfin will not do well with other surgeonfish, especially other Sailfins, unless the tank is extremely large (public aquariums). Pacific Sailfin Tangs seem to be susceptible to marine ich and you will definitely need to use a quarantine tank before introducing them into your main tank. Keep them in the hospital tank for at least two weeks and watch for any outbreaks.

Tank Mate Compatibility :

Breeding Information: No known way to breed in home aquariums.

Determining Sex: Females tend to be larger than males.

Primary Area in Tank: All over - active swimmer.

Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens) Profile Information

311

Scientific Name: Zebrasoma flavescens

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Yellow Tang

Alt Common Name: Yellow Surgeonfish

Group: Acanthuroids (Tangs/Surgeonfish)

Family: Acanthuridae

Distribution: Pacific Eastern; Western Indo-Pacific

Adult Size: 8 inches (20.3cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons

Temperament: Peaceful; Generally make good tankmates for most fish, but are known to be slightly territorial. This species often does not get along with other tangs, bullying peaceful species (and conspecifics) while being dominated by the more aggressive tangs. Unless a very large aquarium is provided, only one tang should be kept. As with all tangs, the yellow tang is a very active swimmer and needs a lot of space.

Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult 312

Reef Safety Score : 2/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.022 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Herbivore; Yellow tangs are heavy plant eaters. Their constant activity and high metabolism mean that they need to consume a lot of greens to stay healthy. For this reason, it is extremely helpful to have a constant source of algae for these fish to pick at throughout the day. Feedings of algae flakes, dried seaweed, macroalgae, and vegetables such as lettuce help to ensure that these fish get enough plant matter in their diet. These tangs will also happily eat many different frozen foods as well as microinvertibrates.

Additional Information : The Yellow Tang is a disc-shaped fish with stunningly beautiful coloring. All fins are a bright yellow, which are equally matched by the body. Unlike some members of the family Acanthuridae, the juvenile and adult forms of this fish share the same coloring and basic appearance. Like other Tangs and Surgeons, this fish carry sharp spines on each side of the caudal penduncle, hence the name of "Surgeon" and "Tang". A good beginner tang, the yellow tang is hardier than most other Acanthurids. Even still, it requires high oxygenation, clean water, and a large aquarium (at least seventy-five gallons is

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recommended). Tangs are susceptible to head and lateral line erosion if subject to poor nutrition, and the yellow tang is no exception.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Does well with most other fishes including aggessive fish. Tangs of similar shape should be avoided.

Breeding Information: Successful breeding of this species in home aquaria has not been reported.

Determining Sex: Females tend to be a bit larger than males but gender is sometimes impossible to determine visually.

Primary Area in Tank: All over - very active swimmer

eBlue Throat Trigger (Xanthichthys auromarginatus) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Xanthichthys auromarginatus

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Blue Throat Trigger

Alt Common Name: Blue Throated Triggerfish, Blue Throat Triggerfish

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Group: Triggers (Triggerfish)

Family: Balistidae

Distribution: Indo-West Pacific: Natal, South Africa and the Mascarene Is. (comprised of Runion, Mauritius and Rodriguez) to the Hawaiian Is., north to the Ryukyus, south to Cocos Keeling Atoll and New Caledonia.

Adult Size: 9 inches (22.9cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons

Temperament: Shy and generally peaceful

Care Difficulty: 4/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 2/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4

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7.8

8.0

8.2

8.4

8.6

8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Carnivorous - Does well with a varied diet of mysis shrimp, krill and other protein based frozen foods.

Additional Information : Often billed as the only reef safe trigger, the blue throat trigger is a very well behaved fish. Typically shy and non aggressive it will probably be fine in most reef tanks. The blue throat trigger is still a triggerfish so it is possible inverts or corals could enter it's food chain. These fish are extremely shy and it is not unusual for them to hide for several days after being introduced to a new aquarium.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Other reef safe and non aggressive fish. Use caution with small fish that could be eaten as a trigger snack.

Breeding Information: No known way in a home reef tank.

Determining Sex: Males tend to be larger and the throat is a much deeper blue.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

Niger Trigger (Odonus niger) Profile Information

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Scientific Name: Odonus niger

Alt Scientific Name: Xenodon niger

Common Name: Niger Trigger

Alt Common Name: Black Triggerfish, Niger Triggerfish, Black Trigger, Redtooth Trigger

Group: Triggers (Triggerfish)

Family: Balistidae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific - particularly around Micronesia and Great Barrier Reef

Adult Size: 20 inches (50.8cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 120 gallons

Temperament: Generally peaceful but will eat most crustaceans and may eat small fish. 317

Care Difficulty: 6/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 1/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.018 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Carnivorous - This species does well with meaty foods such as frozen krill, various shrimp, silversides and bloodworms. Some niger triggers also eat meat based pellet foods.

Additional Information : The coloration of this species varies from region to region. Some individuals have a purple, green, or blue tinge. This species is a hardy aquarium species accepting a variety of commercial foods. When first introduced into a new tank this species may hide or even play dead. However, after becoming adjusted to its surroundings it becomes

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quite bold and will be out in the open a great deal of the time. This is one of the least aggressive trigger species and is suitable for community tanks. Although the Niger Triggerfish is not aggressive towards other fish, it is a natural predator of crustaceans. Do not be tempted to keep the Niger with crabs or shrimp... That cleaner shrimp or emerald crab will be nothing more than an expensive snack!

Tank Mate Compatibility : NO CRABS OR SHRIMP. Otherwise a generally peaceful fish that will not bother tank mates unless they are much much smaller (bite sized).

Breeding Information: This species has not been reported to successfully reproduce in home aquariums.

Determining Sex: No known way to determine visually.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

Bird Wrasse (Gomphosus varius) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Gomphosus varius

Alt Scientific Name: Gomphosus caeruleus

Common Name: Bird Wrasse

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Alt Common Name: Blackbird Wrasse, Brownbird Wrasse, Greenbird Wrasse

Group: Labroids (Wrasses)

Family: Labridae

Distribution: Indo Pacific: Commonly found in the Indo-Pacific from India to Japan and all the way over to Hawaii.

Adult Size: 12 inches (30.5cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

Temperament: Semi-aggressive - will eat smaller fish and almost any crustacean/shrimp/crab/snail/clam/etc

Care Difficulty: 3/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 0/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

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pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.027 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Omnivorous - the bird wrasse will eat some vegetable based foods such as spirulina but tends to enjoy meaty foods much more. This species will eat almost any source of meaty food such as crustaceans, fish, starfish, clams, scallops, squid, shrimp, krill and mollusks. A steady diet of krill, silversides, mysis shrimp, frozen clams or squid will keep this fish healthy and happy. For best results the diet should be varied.

Additional Information : The bird wrasse is quite beautiful, with the males having bright green and blue coloring. The bird wrasse is a great addition to any FOWLER tank but should never be used in a reef setup. The bird wrasse is a great predators of crustaceans and snails. Although bird wrasses do not usually eat corals, their constant picking and searching for crustaceans will disturb or even destroy corals. Ensure there are no openings at the top of an aquarium housing bird wrasses because they are proficient jumpers and will eventually get out of an uncovered aquarium.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Other semi aggressive fish appropriate for FOWLER setups.

Breeding Information: Not recorded in captivity.

Determining Sex: Males are larger and more brightly colored than females.

Primary Area in Tank: Middle to bottom of aquarium. 321

Lunare Wrasse (Thalassoma lunare) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Thalassoma lunare

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Lunare Wrasse

Alt Common Name: Moon Wrasse, Blue Wrasse, Crescent Wrasse, Green Parrot Wrasse, Lyretail Wrasse

Group: Labroids (Wrasses)

Family: Labridae

Distribution: Indo-Pacific, Australian reefs, Fiji

Adult Size: 10 inches (25.4cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons

Temperament: Semi aggressive - will eat many invertebrates and smaller fish.

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Care Difficulty: 6/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 0/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 72F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.022 - 1.026 1.016 1.020 1.024 1.028 1.032 1.036

Diet Information: Very easy to feed. Offer a varied diet of frozen prepared foods, minced fresh table shrimp, and a good flake food.

Additional Information : Bold, hardy, colorful and easy to maintain, there's not much the Lunare Wrasse doesn't have going for it! All members of the genus Thalassoma are excellent aquarium fish that can live many years in any well-maintained aquarium. This is an active fish that requires plenty of swimming space and tankmates that aren't too passive. An excellent fish for the community "fish tank", this wrasse should not be kept in reef tanks, but of course it will do great with live rock.

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Tank Mate Compatibility : Should be kept in an aggressive fish only tank.

Breeding Information: Breeding has not been reported in home aquariums.

Determining Sex: No known way to determine visually.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

Six Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) Profile Information

Scientific Name: Pseudocheilinus hexataenia

Alt Scientific Name:

Common Name: Six Line Wrasse

Alt Common Name: 6 Line Wrasse, Watermelon Wrasse, Sixline Wrasse

Group: Labroids (Wrasses)

Family: Labridae 324

Distribution: Indo Pacific

Adult Size: 3 inches (7.6cm)

Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons

Temperament: Generally peaceful

Care Difficulty: 5/10 Very Easy Moderate Very Difficult

Reef Safety Score : 5/3 Reef Safe

Not Safe

High Risk

Low Risk

Temperature Range: 75F - 82F 74 76 78 80 82 84

pH Range: 8.1 - 8.4 7.8 8.0 8.2 8.4 8.6 8.8

Salinity Range (specific gravity): 1.02 - 1.026

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1.016

1.020

1.024

1.028

1.032

1.036

Diet Information: Microcarnivore. Feed a varied diet that includes a frozen prepared food for carnivores, minced table shrimp, and a good flake food. Feed at least twice a day.

Additional Information : The Six Line Wrasse is one of those fish that most aquarists at one time or another have seen at the their pet store and thought, "that is a cool fish"! And cool they are. They are quite hardy, disease resistant, and long lived. Once acclimated they will even help control a few pests, like the pyramidellid snails and commensal flatworms that some coral keeping aquarists have to deal with at times. They have also been observed cleaning the fins and bodies of other fishes, picking off parasitic isopods and copepods. The Six Line Wrasses are excellent hiders and are very quick, to the point of being one of the harder fish to photograph. They are diurnal,which means they are active by day and sleep at night. As with all fish in this genus they sleep in a mucus cocoon, which fortunately does not seem degrade the water quality. It is thought that the cocoon protects them from predators as they sleep by masking their scent. Though they are shy secretive fish in the wild, once they become acclimated to the home aquarium they become quite boisterous. The Six Lined Wrasses are considered reef safe as they will not harm corals or coral anemones.They are also fine in a community tank but will become aggressive towards shy timid species in the same aquarium, and sometimes even larger fish. To prevent confrontations it is best to keep it with larger or more aggressive fish and to make a single lined wrasse the last addition to the aquarium. They do not co-habitat well with other lined wrasses.

Tank Mate Compatibility : Does well with a variety of reef safe fish and invertebrates. Small invertebrates should be avoided because the six line wrasse may eat them.

Breeding Information: No known way to breed in captivity.

Determining Sex: Males tend to show brighter coloration when courting.

Primary Area in Tank: All over

s take longer

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