Sohodol Gorge

Climbing Topo Guide v2.8 - draft -

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The authos takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to stonemonkey77ro@yahoo.com NOTA:Acest document este doar pentru informare si a fost dezvoltat in cadrul Proiectului Topo Romania.Autorul nu is asuma responsabilitatea pentru posibilele accidente cauzate de folosirea informatiei din acest document. S-ar putea sa existe descrieri care nu sunt conforme cu realitatea din teren. Daca aveti comentarii sau sugestii legate de acest document va rog trimiteti-le la adresa stonemonkey77ro@yahoo.com

(c) August 2007 by cosmo

Sohodol Gorge - Climbing Topo Guide v2.8

(c) August 2007 by cosmo

Notations ! Long distance between protections / Distante lungi intre asigurari # Isn't worth the effort / Nu merita efortul * Very interesting route / Traseu interesant p g c o s
Projec / Proiect Route with glued holds / Traseu cu prize lipite Route with chipped or drilled holds / Traseu cu prize cioplite Almost the whole route is overhanging / Traseu surplombant Almost the whole route is a slab / Traseu fata cazuta

Symbols
Sunny crag / Faleza insorita Shady crag / Faleza umbroasa Rain protected crag / Faleza protejata impotriva ploii Overhanging routes crag / Faleza cu trasee in surplomba Anchor / Ancora (spit) Vertical routes crag / Faleza cu trasee verticale Piton Slabe routes crag / Faleza cu trasee de placa Top Belay in a multi pitch route / Regrupare Grass or small bush / Iarba sau boschet Tree (forest) / Copac (padure)

Grading Scales
UIAA 55 5+ 66 6+ 6+/777 7+ 7+/888 8+ 8+/999 9+ 9+/101010 10+ 10+/1111French 4a 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6a+ 6b 6b+ 6c 6c+ 7a 7a+ 7b 7b+ 7c 7c+ 8a 8a+ 8b 8b+ 8c 8c+ 9a USA 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10b 5.10c 5.10d 5.11a 5.11b 5.11c 5.11d 5.12a 5.12b 5.12c 5.12d 5.13a 5.13b 5.13c 5.13d 5.14a 5.14b 5.14c 5.14d Australia 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32

Sohodol Gorge

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to stonemonkey77ro@yahoo.com

Sohodol Gorge - Climbing Topo Guide v2.8

Direction Petrosani E79 Schela Bumbesti-Jiu Sohodol Gorge Horezu

(c) August 2007 by cosmo In Sohodol gorge it is best to climb from the middle ofApril to the end of September Generally it is a shady area with a dry weather. Perioada optima pentru caarare in Sohodol este din mijlocul lunii August pana pe sfarsitul lui septembrie. In general este o zona umbroasa cu putine ploi. Accommodation: It is possible to camp just next to the crags or you could ask for accommodation at Sohodol Chalet ~4 km farther from the gorge. Another possibility is to be accommodated in Tg.Jiu. Se poate campa cu cortul sub unele faleze sau se pate dormi la cabana Sohodol al cca. 4 km de chei.Alte posibiliati ar fi in orasul Tg. Jiu. Water: Usually the water of the Sohodol river is drinkable. In the gorge there is no other source of water. You can buy mineral water from Rachiti and Runcu villages or you can get it from some taps installed next to the road in Rachiti village. For health safety reasons it is recommended that you bring your water from Rachiti or Runcu villages. In chei nu exista alta sursa de apa decat raul. Surse sigure de apa potabila sunt magazinele satesti sau robinetele de pe marginea drumului din satele Rachiti si Runcu.

Rachiti Lelesti

Stanesti Tureinesti

Runcu Pestisani Direction Baia de Arama DN 67 D Areani

Targu Jiu
Balesti

Direction Ramnicu-Valcea DN 67

N
Direction Drobeta-Turnu Severin DN 67 Direction Craiova E79
D

How to find the area: From Targu-Jiu drive ~11 km towards Baia deArama. Just before entering Runcu village turn right for Sohodol Valley and keep the main road until the end of Rachiti village ~4 km where Sohodol Gorge can be seen. Din Tg.Jiu cca.11 km catre Baia de Arama. Chiar inainte de a intra in satul Runcu cotiti dreapta pentru valea Sohdol si continuati pe drumul principal pana se termina satul Rachiti cca.4 km de unde Chele Sohodol sunt vizibile. How to find the crags: Climbing crags are located in the second half of the gorge at ~1,5 km from Rachiti village. All crags are next to the road. Falezele amenajate se afla in partea a doua a cheilor la cca. 1,5 km de la iesirea din satul Rachiti. Toate falezele se afla in apropierea drumului.

F
A

RACHITI

1 km
B

Direction Sohodol Valley

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to stonemonkey77ro@yahoo.com

Sohodol Gorge - Climbing Topo Guide v2.8

(c) August 2007 by cosmo

Sector A - Tancul mic

South-South West, 15m.

Sector C - Torquemada
North - West, 15m.

1. Bavareza albinutei 2. Alonja viperei 3. Spraitul furnicii

7 77-

15m 15m 15m

Sector G - Faleza mica

East, 12m.

5 6

9 10

1. Licuriciu' beat 2. Porcoplicu' 3. Samurai Jack 4. Babu

6 7+ 7 7

10m 10m 12m 12m

This crag isnt really rain protected, but after a rainfall it dries very quickly and none of the routes is affected by leaks. Aceasta faleza nu este chiar protejata impotriva ploii, dar dupa ploaie stanca se usuca foarte repde si nu este afectata de scurgeri.

1. Shaolinul zburator 2. Curat murdar 3. Merak 4. Be yourself 5. Lejer 6. Grea treaba ! 7. De vara 8. Floare la ureche 9. Plimbarica 10. Torquemada

97 7+ 8 97+/88 8+/98+/99

13m, !,* 10m 10m 10m,* 15m, s, * 15m, s 15m, s 15m, s 13m 15m, g

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to stonemonkey77ro@yahoo.com

Sohodol Gorge - Climbing Topo Guide v2.8

(c) August 2007 by cosmo

Sector B - La Dintele cheilor

South, 28m.

2 1

Access 4-9

9 10 11 12 1314

15

161718 19

1. Triunghi rosu 2. Iubiti femeia 3. Ocrotiti natura 4. I shot the sheriff 5. Officer down 6. Easy ride 7. Wild horse 8. Rodeo 9. Bull fight

5+ 5+ 67777 88-

13m 13m 13m 23m 23m 15m 15m 20m 20m

Between route 18 and 19 there is another AID climbing route named Phare. The entrance of the route 17 was added in 06 until then this route start was the same as for the route 18. Intre traseeele 18 si 19 mai exista un traseu clasic pe nume Phare. Intrarea in traseul 17 a fost adaugata in 06 pana atunci avea intrare comuna cu 18.

10. Jihad 7+/811. Dintele cheilor 6+ 12. American Express 8+ 13. Orient Expres 7 14. Intifada 715. Eu si lumea 7 16. Catarare salbatica 9+ 17. Atentie scurse ! 7+/818. Hamas 7+ 19. Sadam 8

25m, * 27m 27m 25m, * 25m 25m 28m 25m, * 25m, * 22m, *

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to stonemonkey77ro@yahoo.com

Sohodol Gorge - Climbing Topo Guide v2.8

(c) August 2007 by cosmo

Sector D - Peste Nari

West, 28m.

1. Galben de odobesti 2. SKF 3. Exponential 4. Super Bosch 5. Quo Vadis Domine 6. Semiluna rosie 7. Masa Tacerii

7+ 7+/87+/87+ 8 9 9-

23m, # 23m, # 23m, g,* 25m, g 25m 25m 22m, *

8. Coloana Infinitului 9. Poarta Sarutului 10. Circus 11. Arowen 12. Buscut 13. Guevara 14. Soarecu excursionist 15. Pasarea furacioasa

7+ 6+ 9+/1010 ? 10- ? 9? 8+/99-

22m, * 20m 20m, o 22m, o,p 22m, o,p 25m, o 28m, o 28m, o

West, 17m.

Almost all routes from this crag are rain protected, but if it rains for a longer period, many routes will be affected by leaks.

16. Exodus manelistus 17. Schweitzer cu bideu 18. Teoria conspiratiei 19. Hast'al final 20. Din dragoste

9+ 99 (?) 9 8

17m, c,g 15m, * 15m, p 15m 15m, s

1 2

5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

14 15

16

17 18 19

20

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to stonemonkey77ro@yahoo.com

Sohodol Gorge - Climbing Topo Guide v2.8

(c) August 2007 by cosmo

Sector E - La Nari ( In)

West, 20m.

Sector F - La Nari (Out)

East, 25m.

1. Baita 2. Dusulet 3. Mos Popleaca 4. Fa proasto !

887+/86+

25m 22m 22m 25m

5. Arde-o mamaie ! 6. Dreapta nepoate ! 7. Doamna Nasa 8. Badie 9. Bre cumetre 10. Nea tataie 11. Bunelu 12. Draga cuscra

6 75+ 7+/886+/78 7-

25m 22m 22m 22m 22m 22m 22m 22m

1 2

4 3

1. Pirox 2. Draga Otee 3. Sapaturi 4. La limita inspiratiei 5. Cordelia

77 7+/87+ 7

15m, s 20m, s 20m, s,c 20m, s 12m

Between route 2 and 3 there is anotherAID climbing route named Route S. Route 5 is around 200m far from this sector, up the river, on the same side of the road/river, near the bridge. Intre traseeele 2 si 3 exista un traseu clasic numit Traseul S. Traseul 5 este la cca. 200m de acest sector pe aceasi parte a raului chiar dupa pod.

12

34 5 6

7 8 9 10

11 12

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to stonemonkey77ro@yahoo.com

Sohodol Gorge - Climbing Topo Guide v2.8

(c) August 2007 by cosmo

Name
Arowen Buscut Circus Catarare salbatica Exodus manelistus Teoria conspiratiei Guevara Hast'al final Semiluna rosie Torquemada Amercan Express Lejer Masa Tacerii Schweitzer cu bideu Shaolinul zburator Pasarea furacioasa Soarecu excursionist Floare la ureche Plimbarica Be yourself Bunelu De vara Din dragoste Quo Vadis Domine Sadam Baita Bre cumetre Bull flight Dusulet Rodeo Badie Exponential Grea treaba ! Hamas Jihad Mos Popleaca Sapaturi SKF Atentie scurse ! Coloana Infinitului Galbena de Odobesti La limita inspiratiei Merak

Grade Bolted by
10 ? 10- ? 9+/109+ 9+ 9? 9? 9 9 9 9999998+/98+/98+/98 8 8 8 8 8 888887+/87+/87+/87+/87+/87+/87+/87+/87+ 7+ 7+ 7+ 7+ Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Bogdan Dudau, Eugen Lazar 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Costin Morariu 05 Costin Morariu 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Costin Morariu 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Laurentiu Anghel 06 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Dan Burcea, Florian Mastacan 04 Costin Morariu 04 Costin Morariu, Romeo Boiciu 03 Costin Morariu 03 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Laurentiu Anghel, DanBurcea 06 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Florian Mastacan 04 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Romeo Boiciuc, Costin Morariu 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Bogdan Dudau, Marian Bucneru 04 Marian Bucneru, Bogdan Dudau 04 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Marian Bucneru, Florian Mastacan 04 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Dan Burcea 04 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Costin Morariu 04 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Bogdan Dudau, Eugen Lazar 03 Bogdan Dudau 04 Eugen Lazar 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Costin Morariu 03 Cristi Stoisor 04

Name
Porcoplicu' Super Bosch Babu Bavareza albinutei Cordelia Curat murdar Draga Otee Eu si lumea Orient Expres Samurai Jack Wild horse Alonja viperei Draga cuscra Dreapta nepoate ! Easy ride I shot the sherif Intifada Oficer down Pirox Spraitul furnicii Nea tataie Dintele cheilor Fa proasto ! Poarta Sarutului Arde-o mamaie ! Licuriciu' beat Ocrotiti natura Doamna Nasa Iubiti femeia Triunghi rosu

Grade Bolted by
7+ 7+ 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7777777776+/76+ 6+ 6+ 6 6 65+ 5+ 5+ CristiStoisor, Costin Morariu 04 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Costin Morariu 04 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Bogdan Dudau, Marian Bucneru 04 Costin Morariu 04 Eugen Lazar 03 ? (Re: Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06) Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Costin Morariu 04 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Bogdan Dudau, Marian Bucneru 04 Marian Bucneru, Bogdan Dudau 04 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Lazar Eugen 03 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Lazar Eugen 03 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Marian Bucneru, Bogdan Dudau 04 rebolted by Laurentiu Anghel 06 Bogdan Dudau, Florian Mastacan 04 Eugen Lazar, Bogdan Dudau 03 Bogdan Dudau, Dan Burcea 04 Costin Morariu 04 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Bogdan Dudau, George Stroie 03 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06 Laurentiu Anghel, Dan Burcea 06

NOTE: This document is for information only and it was developed as a part of Romania Climbing Topo Project. The author takes no responsibility for possible accidents caused by using the information contained in this document. There may be inaccuracies in some descriptions. Please forward any comments or suggestions regarding this document to stonemonkey77ro@yahoo.com