Thomas Burberry (27 August 1835 - 4 April 1926) was the founder of Burberry, one of the United Kingdom's

largest branded clothing businesses.

Thomas Burberry Born: 27 August 1835 Brockham Green Died :4 April 1926 (aged 90) Known for Burberry Religion Baptist Children 2

Career
Born at Brockham Green near Dorking and educated at Brockham Green Village School, Thomas Burberry was apprenticed to a local draper's shop before he opened his outfitting business in Basingstoke in 1856.[1] Burberry recognised the need for promotion and publicity and ensured that Lord Kitchener and Lord Baden-Powell both wore his weatherproofs.[1] By these means he expanded his business into one of the United Kingdom's largest branded clothing businesses.[1] He retired to Abbot's Court near Weymouth, Dorset in 1917.[1] He was a teetotaler and campaigned against tobacco smoking.[1] He was also a devout baptist who liked to hold prayer meetings every morning.[2] He died at his home at Hook near Basingstoke in 1926.

He married twice, first to Catherine Hannah Newman and second to Mary Marshall.[1] He had two sons.

History

1856
Thomas Burberry, a 21-year-old drapers apprentice, opened a small outfitters shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England.

1870
A commitment to quality and innovation in fabric and outwear design earned Burberry a loyal following. By 1870, the shop had grown to an emporium.

1880
Gabardine the breathable, weatherproof and tearproof fabric developed by Burberry was introduced in 1880.

1891
Now trading as Thomas Burberry & Sons, the business opened a shop in the West End of London at 30 Haymarket.

1895
Burberry developed the Tielocken, the predecessor of the trench coat, which was adopted by British officers during the Boer War.

1901
The Equestrian Knight trademark appeared for the first time accompanied by the Latin word Prorsum, meaning forwards.

1911
Equipped by Burberry, the Norwegian explorer Captain Roald Amundsen became the first man to reach the South Pole.

1914
Commissioned by the War Office to adapt its earlier officers coat for new combat requirements, Burberry added epaulettes and D rings, and the trench coat was born.

1920
The Burberry Check, registered as a trademark, was introduced as a lining to the trench coat in the 1920s.

1955
Burberry was awarded a Royal Warrant by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.

1989
A second Royal Warrant was granted to Burberry in 1989 by HRH The Prince of Wales.

2002
Burberry launched its exclusive Art of the Trench made to order trench coat service.

Today
Burberry is an internationally recognised luxury brand with a worldwide distribution network.

Type Public company Traded as LSE: BRBY Industry Fashion Founded Basingstoke, United Kingdom (1856) Headquarters London, United Kingdom Key people John Peace, (Chairman) Angela Ahrendts, (CEO) Christopher Bailey, (CCO)

Products Clothing Accessories Perfumes Revenue 1,279.9 billion (2011)[1] Operating income 171.1 million (2011)[1] Net income 82.2 million (2011)[1] Website burberry.com

Burberry Group plc (LSE: BRBY) is a British luxury fashion house, manufacturing clothing, fragrance, and fashion accessories. Its distinctive tartan pattern has become one of its most widely copied trademarks. Burberry is most famous for its iconic trench coat, which was invented by founder Thomas Burberry. The company has branded stores and franchises around the world, and also sells through concessions in third-party stores. HM Queen Elizabeth II and HRH The Prince of Wales have granted the company Royal Warrants. The Chief Creative Officer is Christopher Bailey. The company is listed on the London Stock Exchange and is a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index.

Early years, 19th century

Burberry was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a former draper's apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England.[3] By 1870, the business had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoors attire.[3] In 1880, Burberry introduced in his brand the gabardine, a hardwearing, water-resistant yet breathable fabric, in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving.[3] Burberry was the original name, but then the company soon switched to using the name Burberrys, after many customers from around the world began calling it Burberrys of London. This name is still visible on many older Burberry products. In 1891, Burberry opened a shop in the Haymarket, London, which still exists and until recently was the site of Burberrys corporate headquarters. Now the headquarters are at Horseferry House just behind Houses of Parliament, Westminster (London).

20th century

In 1901, the Burberry Equestrian Knight Logo was developed containing the Latin word "Prorsum", meaning forwards, and registered as a trademark.[3] In 1911 they became the outfitters for Roald Amundsen,[3] the first man to reach the South Pole, and Ernest Shackleton,

who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A Burberry gabardine jacket was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. In 1914 Burberry was commissioned by the War Office to adapt its officer's coat to suit the conditions of contemporary warfare, resulting in the "trench coat".[3] After the war, the trench coat became popular with civilians. The iconic Burberry check was created in the 1920s and used as a lining in its trench coats.[3] Burberry also specially designed aviation garments. A. E. Clouston and Mrs Betsy Kirby Green made the fastest flying time to Cape Town from London in 1937 and were sponsored by Burberry.

Recent history

Burberry was an independent company until 1955, when it was taken over by Great Universal Stores (GUS). Burberry Group plc was initially floated on the London Stock Exchange in July 2002.[4] GUS divested its remaining interest in Burberry in December 2005.[5] In 2006 Rose Marie Bravo, who as Chief Executive had led Burberry to mass market success, retired.[6] She was replaced by current CEO Angela Ahrendts. Burberry first began selling online in the US, followed by the UK in October 2006, and the rest of the EU in 2007

UK image and revitalisation

During the 1970s, the brand became popular with the British casual cult, leading to it to being associated with chavs and members of football firms by the 1990s.[8][9] Such a shift in a brand's clientele exemplifies prole drift. However, Burberry has attempted to rebrand itself with advertisements in GQ, Esquire, Vogue, Tatler and Harper's Bazaar, and is well-known for using British celebrities in its advertising, including models Kate Moss, Agyness Deyn, Jourdan Dunn and Lily Donaldson, singer George Craig, and actress Emma Watson, who was named the face of Burberry's 2009 Fall/Winter campaign and the cover model for the 2010 Spring/Summer campaign

Brands
Burberry operates under 5 brands:[12]

Burberry London: The primary brand, used for the vast majority of products Burberry Brit Burberry Prorsum Burberry Sport Thomas Burberry Burberry Black Label, men (in japan & hongkong, 2011 only) Burberry Blue Label, ladies (in japan & hongkong, 2011 only)

1856 - Thomas Burberry (21), former apprentice to a country draper, opened an outfitters shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England (above); 1880 - invented gabardine, breathable fabric, yarn waterproofed before weaving; 1924 - Burberry Check (red, camel, black, white check - known as the 'Nova'), introduced as lining for wet weather attire, registered as a trademark. (http://www.basingstoke.me.uk/lgburberry.jpg)

Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats, trousers uniforms, and other garments. The fibre used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted wool, but may also be cotton, texturized polyester, or a blend. Gabardine is woven as a warp-faced steep or regular twill, with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and smooth surface on the back. Garbardine always has many more warp than filling yarns.[1][2][3] Cotton gabardine is sometimes used by bespoke tailors to make pocket linings for business suits, where the pocket's contents would quickly wear holes in the usual flimsy pocket lining material.[citation needed] Clothing made from gabardine is generally labeled as being suitable for dry cleaning only, as is typical for wool textiles. Gabardine may also refer to the twill-weave used for gabardine fabric, or to a raincoat made of this fabric. Gabardine was invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke, and patented in 1888. The original fabric was water-proofed before weaving and was worsted or worsted/cotton, tightly woven and water-repellant but more comfortable than rubberized fabrics.[2] The fabric takes its name from the word "gaberdine, gabardine", originally

a long, loose cloak or gown worn in the Middle Ages, but later signifying a rain cloak or protective smock-frock.[3][4] Burberry clothing of gabardine was worn by polar explorers including Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, in 1911, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A jacket made of this material was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924.[5

A trench coat or trenchcoat is a raincoat made of waterproof heavy-duty cotton drill or poplin, wool gabardine, or leather. It generally has a removable insulated lining; and it is usually knee-length.

The trench coat was developed as an alternative to the heavy serge greatcoats worn by British and French soldiers in the First World War. Invention of the trench coat is claimed by both Burberry and Aquascutum, with Aquascutum's claim dating back to the 1850s. Thomas Burberry, the inventor of gabardine fabric, submitted a design for an army officer's raincoat to the United Kingdom War Office in 1901.[1][2] The trench coat became an optional item of dress in the British Army, and was obtained by private purchase by officers and Warrant Officers Class I who were under no obligation to own them.[3] No other ranks were permitted to wear them. Another optional item was the British Warm, a wool coat similar to the greatcoat that was shorter in length, also worn by British officers and Warrant Officers Class I as an optional piece. During the First World War, the design of the trenchcoat was modified to include shoulder straps and D-rings. The shoulder straps were for the attachment of epaulettes or other rank insignia; There is a popular myth that the D-ring was for the attachment of hand grenades. The ring was originally for map cases and swords or other equipment to the belt. This latter pattern was dubbed "trench coat" by the soldiers in the front line. Many veterans returning to civilian life kept the coats that became fashionable for both men and women. During the Second World War, officers of the United Kingdom continued to use the trench coat on the battlefield in inclement weather. Other nations also developed trench coat style jackets, notably the United States and Soviet Union, and other armies of continental Europe such as France, Germany, Holland, Poland (and are often seen in war zone photographs in the 1939-40 era, even worn by troops on the attack), although as the war progressed, in the field shorter "field jackets" became more popular, including garments such as the Denison smock used by British commandos, paratroopers, and snipers and the M1941/M1943 field jackets used by the US Army. These garments were shorter and more practical than the trench coat, and as such they allowed the wearer to be more mobile.[4] A typical trench coat by this period was a ten-buttoned, double-breasted long coat made with tan, khaki, beige, or black fabric. Trench coats often have cuff straps on the raglan sleeves, shoulder

straps and a belt. The trench coat was typically worn as a windbreaker or as a rain jacket, and not for protection from the cold in winter or snowy conditions.

Trench coats have remained fashionable in the decades following World War II . Their original role as part of an army officer's uniform lent the trench coat a businesslike respectability, whilst fictional heroes as diverse as the Tenth Doctor, Dick Tracy, Mike Hammer, Jack Harkness, The Crow, The Phantom, Humphrey Bogart's Rick Blaine from Casablanca[5] and Peter Sellers' Inspector Clouseau kept the coat in the public eye. Usually, a fedora or an ushanka (during colder weather) was also worn. In the 1960s, some Mods wore trenchcoats as fashionable overcoats, as an alternative to the fishtail parka or crombie. The heavy metal and Goth fashion trend of black oilcloth dusters are usually referred to as trench coats.[6] Early media reports of the Columbine High School massacre initially associated the perpetrators with members of the "Trenchcoat Mafia", a group of outcasts who allegedly wore conspicuous black Australian oilcloth dusters. In the copycat W. R. Myers High School shooting days later, the shooter wore a trench coat. In the wake of these incidents, several schools forbade students to wear trench coats, on the grounds that the long coats could be used to conceal weapons.

Name:Thomas Burberry

About: the designers Thomas Burberry was born in 1835 in Dorking Surrey, UK. He trained as an apprentice to a draper. In 1856, he opened his own drapery business, called T. Burberry and Sons, in Basingstoke, Hampshire. Business thrived and by 1870 Burberry became known as an "emporium" with an increased focus on the development of outdoor wear for local residents and visiting sportsmen who frequented the store. Thomas Burberry invented gabardine; a breathable fabric made using an innovative process where the yarn was waterproofed before weaving. This fabric was not only water-resistant but also extremely durable. A patent was taken out in 1888. In 1891, Burberry established a wholesale business in London. In 1891 Thomas Burberry opened his first shop at the Haymarket, now the site of Burberrys corporate headquarters. The officers Tielocker Coat, designed by Burberry in the 1899s, was the forerunner to todays trench coat. The Burberry Equestrian Knight logo was developed and registered as a trademark in 1901. In 1902, Burberry established "Gabardine" as a trademark and in 1909, the "Burberry" was registered as a trademark for the company's coats. During World War I Burberry designed coats for the British Royal Flying Corps (later the RAF). The

military style model of the Burberry became the Trench coat of the First World War. It has a deep back yoke, epaulets, buckled cuff straps, a button-down storm flap on one shoulder and storm pockets. After the war, the Trench coat was absorbed into civilian life. Known as a "Burberry" it has been copied worldwide. The Burberry Check, registered as a trademark, was introduced as a lining to the trench coat in the 1920s. In the 60's Burberry made a stab at the fashion scene, and the famous check was seen on umbrellas, luggage and scarves. Their plaid is now one of the most recognized in the world. In the 1980's, the company started to revitalize its brands and trademarks. This was accompanied by retail expansion, opening stores in New York and other major cities. All major stars and celebrities have worn Burberry trench coats. Audrey Hepburn wore one in "Breakfast in Tiffany's". Burberry was first awarded the Royal Warrant from Her Majesty The queen in 1955. A further Royal Warrant was awarded in 1989 by His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales. He died in 1926 at the age of 91.

textile printing

Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns. In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens are used to place colours on the fabric. Colourants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent the colour from spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design. Traditional textile printing techniques may be broadly categorised into four styles:

Direct printing, in which colourants containing dyes, thickeners, and the mordants or substances necessary for fixing the colour on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern. The printing of a mordant in the desired pattern prior to dyeing cloth; the color adheres only where the mordant was printed. Resist dyeing, in which a wax or other substance is printed onto fabric which is subsequently dyed. The waxed areas do not accept the dye, leaving uncoloured patterns against a coloured ground. Discharge printing, in which a bleaching agent is printed onto previously dyed fabrics to remove some or all of the colour.

Resist and discharge techniques were particularly fashionable in the 19th century, as were combination techniques in which indigo resist was used to create blue backgrounds prior to block-printing of other colours.[1] Most modern industrialised printing uses direct printing techniques.

Preparation of cloth for printing

Goods intended for calico printing ought to be exceptionally well-bleached, otherwise mysterious stains, and other serious defects, are certain to arise during subsequent operations. The chemical preparations used for special styles will be mentioned in their proper places; but a general prepare, employed for most colours that are developed and fixed by steaming only, consists in passing the bleached calico through a weak solution of sulfated or turkey red oil containing from 21/2 per cent, to 5 per cent, of fatty acid. Some colours are printed on pure

bleached cloth, but all patterns containing alizarine red, rose and salmon shades, are considerably brightened by the presence of oil, and indeed very few, if any, colours are detrimentally affected by it. Apart from wet preparations the cloth has always to be brushed, to free it from loose nap, flocks and dust that it picks up whilst stored. Frequently, too, it has to be sheared by being passed over rapidly revolving knives arranged spirally round an axle, which rapidly and effectually cuts off all filaments and knots, leaving the cloth perfectly smooth and clean and in a condition fit to receive impressions of the most delicate engraving. Some figured fabrics, especially those woven in checks, stripes and crossovers, require very careful stretching and straightening on a special machine, known as a stenter, before they can be printed with certain formal styles of pattern which are intended in one way or another to correspond with the cloth pattern. Finally, all descriptions of cloth are wound round hollow wooden or iron centers into rolls of convenient size for mounting on the printing machines.

Preparation of colours

The art of making colours for textile printing demands both chemical knowledge and extensive technical experience, for their ingredients must not only be properly proportioned to each other, but they must be specially chosen and compounded for the particular style of work in hand. For a pattern containing only one colour any mixture whatever may he used so long as it fulfils all conditions as to shade, quality and fastness; but where two or more colours are associated in the same design each must be capable of undergoing without injury the various operations necessary for the development and fixation of the others. All printing pastes whether containing colouring matter or not are known technically as colours, and are referred to as such in the sequence. Colours vary considerably in composition. The greater number of them contain all the elements necessary for the direct production and fixation of the colour-lake. Some few contain the colouring matter alone and require various after-treatments for its fixation; and others again are simply mordants thickened. A mordant is the metallic salt or other substance that combines with the colouring principle to form an insoluble colour-lake, either directly by steaming, or indirectly by dyeing. All printing colours require thickening, for the twofold object of enabling them to be transferred from colour-box to cloth without loss and to prevent them from running or spreading beyond the limits of the pattern.