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Codes, regulations, and laws regarding wood-heating, gas appliances, and components change frequently. It is essential that you be familiar with the appropriate current National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) information and other codes, regulations, and laws.
OBJECTIVES
After studying this unit, you should be able to list reasons for the formation of creosote. describe methods to help prevent the formation of creosote. explain how stovepipe should be assembled and installed. list safety hazards that may be encountered with wood stoves. describe the three types of venting for gas stoves. explain how a fireplace insert can improve on the heating efficiency of a fireplace. describe the difference between passive and active solar systems. describe the declination angle and the effect it has on the suns radiation during winter and summer. list the typical components in a liquid-based solar system and describe the function of each. describe the operation of a solar domestic hot water system. describe a swimming pool solar-heating system.
SAFETY CHECKLIST
Many safety practices must be adhered to when installing or using a wood-burning appliance. Many of these safety practices are stated within this unit, printed in red. Many other safety practices must be adhered to including those provided by manufacturers and local, regional, and state codes. It is also necessary to use good judgment and common sense at all times. If an antifreeze solution is used in a solar domestic hot water system, a double-walled heat exchanger must be used.
4 ft
4 ft
alytic stoves manufactured between these dates may not emit more than 8.5 g/h. These limits are reduced further for those stoves manufactured after July 1, 1990, to 4.1 g/h for the catalytic models and 7.5 for the noncatalytics. As new stoves are purchased and installed, replacing older stoves, the air pollutants from wood-burning stoves will be reduced drastically, because the particulate emission of the catalytic stove is approximately 10% of the emissions of the older stoves.
A.4 CREOSOTE
8 ft 1 CORD OF WOOD
Figure A2 Wood should be stacked on runners so that air can circulate through it.
by the cord, which is a stack 4 ft 4 ft 8 ft or 128 ft3. Because wood is sold by volume and not by weight, wood that is split has less air space between the individual pieces. This will give the cord of wood a higher density, meaning more wood per cord. Wood should be dry before burning. Approximately 20% more heat is available in dry wood than in green wood. Wood should be stacked off the ground on runners and should be well ventilated, Figure A2. When possible, the wood should be covered, but air should be allowed to circulate through it. Wood splits more easily when it is green or freshly cut and dries better when it has been split. When green wood is burned, combustion will be incomplete, resulting in unburned carbon, oils, and resins, which leave the fire as smoke. During oxidation or burning, oxygen is added to the chemical process. This actually turns wood back into products that helped it grow as a plant: primarily carbon dioxide (CO2), water (H2O), and other miscellaneous materials. Heat also is produced. Some woods produce more heat than others per cord, Figure A1. Generally, dry hardwoods are the most efficient.
Creosote is a mixture of unburned organic material. When it is hot, it is a thick dark-brown liquid. When it cools, it forms into a residue like tar. It then often turns into a black, flaky substance that adheres to the inside of the chimney or stovepipe. The formation of creosote is particularly a problem with the uncertified stoves manufactured before July 1, 1989. Some of the primary causes of excessive creosote are: smoldering low-heat fires. smoke in contact with cool surfaces in the stovepipe or chimney. burning green wood. burning softwood. SAFETY PRECAUTION: Creosote buildup in the stovepipe and chimney is dangerous. It can ignite and burn with enough force to cause a fire in the building. Stovepipes have been known to be blown apart, and chimney fires are common with this excessive buildup. To help prevent the formation of creosote, burn dry hardwood. Fires should burn with some intensity. When the stovepipe or chimney flue temperature drops below 250F, creosote will condense on the surfaces. Use as little run of stovepipe as possible. The minimum rise should be 1/4 in. per ft of horizontal run. A rise of 30 is recommended, Figure A3. Anything that slows the movement of the gases allows
CHIMNEY FLUE STOVEPIPE SHOULD RISE FROM STOVE TO CHIMNEY (1/4" RISE PER FOOT IS THE MINIMUM RECOMMENDED). KEEP RUN AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE.
Figure A4 The stovepipe should be assembled with the crimped end down so that creosote will not leak out of the joint.
them to cool, which will cause more creosote condensation. Stovepipes and chimneys should be cleaned regularly. Assemble the stovepipe with the crimped end down, Figure A4. This will keep the creosote inside the pipe.
platinum, palladium, or rhodium, which is chemically stable in extreme temperatures. Figure A7 is an illustration of a woodstove with a catalytic combustor. A disadvantage of this combustor is that it must be replaced every few years.
FLUE
THERMAL INSULATION
WOOD
system to spread the heat out further and to make the convection process more efficient.
Pellet Stoves
Pellet stoves are a more recent design, are energy efficient, and use a renewable energy source, Figure A8. The fuel consists of small compressed pellets made from waste wood, primarily sawdust from lumber sawmills. However, the pellets may be made from waste cardboard or even agricultural wastes such as sunflower and cherry seed hulls. Stove owners should be sure that only the type of pellets recommended by the manufacturer are used. They are normally provided in 40- or 50-lb bags.
Most pellet stoves are designed with a hopper at the back or top. The pellets are fed to the combustion chamber with an auger powered by an electric motor, which is often controlled with a thermostat. The room air is generally circulated through the heat exchanger and into the conditioned space by a multispeed blower. Very little air pollution is produced with as little as 1% of the pellet material remaining as ash. Most stoves do not require a chimney because exhaust gases are forced outside through a vent pipe by a combustion fan. Combustion air may be drawn in from outdoors so that heated room air is not used for combustion. This provides additional efficiency by not creating a negative pressure in the room thus decreasing the cold air that will infiltrate through cracks in doors and windows. Venting of exhaust gases may be through a horizontally positioned vent pipe with an end cap to prevent wind from blowing air and the exhaust gases into the stove, Figure A9. This horizontal vent pipe must be constructed of PL vent pipe tested to UL 641 standards. It is a double-walled pipe with an air space between the walls. All joints must be sealed with an approved sealer. This is important because this venting system has an electrically operated exhaust combustion fan; if there should be a power failure, the combustion fumes could enter the conditioned space. A lined masonry chimney that meets all appropriate codes may be used. However, many masonry chimneys will be large enough to affect the operation of pellet stoves adversely. These chimneys may be relined with a stainless steel liner, Figure A10. Consult the stove manufacturers literature for the recommended diameter for these liners.
Figure A9 A horizontal vent pipe must have an end cap to prevent air or exhaust gases from being blown into the stove. A vent pipe may be extended vertically above the eaves. Courtesy Vermont Castings
Figure A11 A wood-burning stove made from cast iron. Courtesy Majestic Products Co., Huntington, IN Figure A10 Pellet stoves may operate more efficiently if masonry chimneys are relined with a stainless steel liner. Courtesy Vermont Castings
Stove Construction
Stoves may be constructed of steel, cast iron, soapstone, or a combination of these materials. Stoves made of steel are normally the least expensive. They are made of sheet steel welded together normally with a firebox of refractory bricks. These stoves give off heat almost immediately after the fire is started. With a large, hot fire, they will quickly give off a considerable amount of heat. However, when the fire dies, the heat from the stove will also quickly cool. Many stoves are manufactured of cast iron. These stoves can be much more decorative, because the casting process provides an opportunity for intricate detail particularly on the sides and legs, Figure A11. Cast iron is more durable than steel, and the heat is more even and less intense than that of a sheet-steel stove. These stoves also cool down more slowly after the fire dies down or goes out. Soapstone may be used, particularly in combination with cast iron, as a material in the manufacture of wood-burning stoves, Figure A12. Soapstone can withstand the changes in temperature such as from room temperature to very intense heat. It may be used not only on the exterior of stoves, but also may be used for the firebox, because it can withstand exposure to direct flames. This material provides a gentle heat and can hold and radiate heat for longer periods than the other materials.
Figure A12 A wood-burning stove made with soapstone. Courtesy HearthStone NHC, Inc
DAMPER
Makeup Air
Air used in combustion must be made up or resupplied from the outside, for example, with an inlet from outside directly to the stove, Figure A13. Often an older home has many air leaks. The hot air may leak out near the ceiling or through the
FRESH AIR INLET FROM OUTSIDE
Figure A13 A stove with a fresh air tube entering it from outside.
attic. Cool air can leak in through cracks around windows, under doors, and elsewhere. Although this may disturb the normal heating cycle, it does help to make up air for that air leaving the chimney as a result of the combustion and venting. SAFETY PRECAUTION: In modern homes that are sealed and insulated well, some provision may have to be made to supply the makeup air. A door may have to be opened a crack to provide a proper draft. A stove could actually burn enough oxygen in a small home to make it difficult to get enough oxygen to breathe. Always make sure that there is enough makeup air.
Safety Hazards
SAFETY PRECAUTION: Live coals in the stove in the living area of a house, along with creosote in stovepipes and chimneys, make it absolutely necessary to install, maintain, and operate stoves safely. This cannot be emphasized enough. Following are some of the safety hazards that may be encountered: A hot fire can ignite a buildup of creosote, resulting in a stovepipe or chimney fire. Radiation from the stove or stovepipe may overheat walls, ceilings, or other combustible materials in the house and start a fire. Sparks may get out of the stove, land on combustible materials, and ignite them. This could happen through a defect in the stove, while the door is left ajar, while the firebox is being filled, or while ashes are removed. Flames could leak out through faulty chimneys, or heat could be conducted through cracks to a combustible material. Burning materials coming out of the top of the chimney can also start a fire at the outside of the house. These sparks or glowing materials can ignite roofing materials, leaves, brush, or other matter outside the house.
A stove collar adapter often supplied by the manufacturer should be used to install the stovepipe to the stove, Figure A14. The manufacturer may provide a special provision for this. Figure A15 shows three different types of installations. The stovepipe must not run through any combustible material, such as a ceiling or wall. Approved chimney sections with necessary fittings should be used. Figure A16 illustrates details for adapting the stovepipe to the through-thewall chimney fittings. Remember to keep horizontal stovepipe runs to a minimum. A rise of 1/4 in. per ft should be considered a minimum, Figure A3. Local codes or manufacturers may require a greater rise. Be sure that approved thimbles, joist shields, insulation shields, and other necessary fittings are used where required. Ensure that a recognized national testing laboratory approves all materials and that all codes are met. Only one stove can be connected to a chimney. For masonry chimneys with more than one flue, no more than one stove can be connected to each flue. A factory-built chimney used for woodstoves should be rated as a residential and building heating appliance chimney. Check all codes. SAFETY PRECAUTION: Many stoves are vented through masonry chimneys. If a new chimney is being used, it should have been constructed according to applicable building codes and carefully inspected. If an old chimney is being used, an experienced person should inspect it to ensure that it is safe to use. The mortar in the joints may be deteriorated and loose, or a serious chimney fire may have cracked the chimney. All necessary repairs should be made to the chimney by a competent mason before connecting the stove to it. Manufacturers or their suppliers may recommend that chimneys be lined, Figure A10. This may be recommended for a better draft and/or safety.
FIRESTOP ASSEMBLY
STOVEPIPE
PIPE
STOVEPIPE TEE ASSEMBLY WALL THIMBLE WALL SUPPORT WITH CLEAN OUT
CHIMNEY MUST BE ENCLOSED WHERE IT PASSES THROUGH OCCUPIED SPACES TO MAINTAIN REQUIRED CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLES AND TO PROTECT AGAINST DAMAGE.
NOTE: OUTSIDE CHIMNEYS ARE NOT AS DESIRABLE, SINCE THEY ARE MORE SUBJECT TO DOWNDRAFTS AND CREOSOTE BUILDUP.
CHIMNEY TEE BRANCH EXTENSION CHIMNEY TEE PIPE END PLATE CHIMNEY CONNECTOR RING 90 ELBOW 18-INCH DOUBLE-WALL BLACK STOVEPIPE ADJUSTABLE LENGTH 24-INCH DOUBLE-WALL BLACK STOVEPIPE PIPE SECTION STOVE COLLAR ADAPTER
CHIMNEY PIPE SECTION CHIMNEY TEE WALL THIMBLE CHIMNEY TEE WALL SUPPORT TYPICAL INSTALLATION USING 90 ELBOW WITH THROUGH-THE-WALL CHIMNEY TEE
this writing in all states. They have an oxygen depletion sensor (ODS), which turns off the pilot light and gas supply when the oxygen level in the area of the stove is depleted to a certain level. Gas appliances should be installed by certified personnel or by those approved in that region to do so.
Wood-Burning Inserts
Awood-burning insert is basically a woodstove that is designed to be placed into an existing fireplace. Fireplace inserts can be either wood- or gas-burning. New wood-burning inserts must be certified by the EPA as woodstoves are. This makes them more clean burning and more efficient. For a wood-burning insert to be used, the fireplace and chimney must generally be of masonry construction. Local building codes and the manufacturers specifications for the particular insert should be consulted to ensure that the size and construction of the fireplace would accommodate the insert. All installations should meet the NFPA and other appropriate codes. Many factory-built or prefabricated fireplaces are not approved for inserts. Inserts are usually made from plate steel, cast iron, or a combination of these materials. They may fit into the fireplace opening so that they are basically flush with the front, or they may protrude to some degree onto the hearth. Those that protrude are usually more efficient as this part of the insert will provide more radiant heat. Inserts normally have blowers that may be controlled manually or with a thermostat and which improve the efficiency. Codes now in many areas for new insert installations require that the insert be installed with a positive connection to the chimney flue, which prevents creosote from running down
These stoves may be designed to burn natural or propane gas. Many are designed so the orifice can be adjusted or changed to switch from burning one gas to the other. Most utilize a standing pilot for ignition and have controls to shut off the gas should the pilot be out. Many of these stoves operate without electricity and can be used for heating during a power outage. Some have variable-speed convection blowers to help circulate the heated air.
Venting
These gas stoves may be designed as B-vent, direct-vent, or vent-free stoves. B-VENT. Stoves requiring a B-vent must be vented through the roof or into an existing chimney. A flue liner may be suggested or required if venting into an existing chimney. The liner will reduce the size of the flue so that the stove will draft properly. DIRECT-VENT. Stoves utilizing a direct-vent system use a double-wall pipe to pull outside air in for combustion and to vent flue gases to the outside. Direct-vent options may include: venting straight back from the stove and through the wall. venting up from the stove and then through the wall. venting up through the roof. in some cases venting into a lined fireplace flue. VENT-FREE. Vent-free stoves, as the name implies, require no venting. Some people are concerned about gas combustion in the living area and not venting the flue gases. These stoves do have a good safety record but are not approved at
Figure A18 A wood-burning fireplace insert. Courtesy of Majestic Products Co., Huntington, IN
into the fireplace, causing a fire hazard. Smoke and gases then exit the fireplace more directly into and out of the chimney. Before an insert is installed, a professional should inspect the chimney. If there is creosote buildup, the chimney must be cleaned. The chimney and fireplace should be checked for cracks or flaws that could be a fire hazard. Inserts should never be used in a chimney flue used for another purpose. Many inserts make it more difficult to clean the chimney, as they must be removed from the fireplace. Some inserts have a special collar and direct flue liner to the top of the chimney, and these may be left in place for cleaning. Professional chimney sweeps should be employed to clean chimneys.
Figure A19 A greenhouse will allow the sun to shine into the house. It may also have a masonry floor, or barrels of water may be located in the greenhouse to help store the heat until evening when the sun goes down. This heat then may be circulated throughout the house.
SUMMER SUN
Figure A20 An overhang may be constructed to allow the sun to shine into the house in the winter when it is lower in the sky and yet shade the window in the summer.
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space or absorbed by moisture and pollutants before reaching the earth. The energy reaching the earth directly is direct radiation. The reflected or scattered energy is diffuse radiation, Figure A22.
Figure A21 Latent-heat storage tubes may be placed in windows where heat is stored when the sun is shining. Courtesy of Calortherm Associates
Provide a large mass such as a concrete or brick wall to absorb heat from the sun and temper the inside environment naturally. Place latent-heat storage tubes containing phasechange materials where they can collect heat to be released at a later time, Figure A21. The remainder of this unit is limited to a discussion of active solar systems. These systems use electrical or mechanical devices to help collect, store, and distribute the suns energy. The distribution of this heat to the conditioned space is by means of the same type of equipment used in fossil-fuel furnaces.
EARTH
Figure A23 The angle of declination (23.5) tilts the earth so that the angle from the sun north of the equator is greater in the winter. The suns rays are not as direct, and the normal temperatures are colder than during the summer.
DUST (SCATTERING)
EARTH
Figure A22 Radiation striking the earth directly from the sun is considered direct radiation. If it reaches the earth after it has been deflected by clouds or dust particles, it is called diffuse radiation.
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POINT 2
Figure A24 Radiation from the sun will be warmer at point 1 as it travels the shortest distance through the atmosphere.
The amount of radiation reaching the earth also varies according to the distance it travels through the atmosphere. The shortest distance is when the sun is perpendicular (90) to a particular surface. This is when the greatest energy reaches that section of the earth, Figure A24. The angle of the suns rays with regard to a particular place on the earth plays an important part in the collection of the suns energy.
COLLECTOR PANELS
CONTROLLER
Figure A25 Collectors use water as the liquid. This is a drain-down system because the water in the collectors would freeze on cold nights.
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FURNACE
Figure A26 A closed liquid collection, water storage system with air distribution to the house.
liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger, where it absorbs more heat. If the room thermostat is not calling for heat, three-way valve 1 diverts the water to storage. If the storage temperature has reached a predetermined temperature, the collector solution is circulated through the purge coil. The solution is diverted to this purge coil through three-way valve 2. (The heat is dissipated into the air outside through this coil.) This is a necessary safety precaution because it is possible for the collector system to overheat and damage the equipment. Note that a liquid-to-liquid heat exchanger is used to heat the storage water. The collector antifreeze fluid must be kept separated from the storage water. This system is less efficient than the drain-down system, which does not require the extra heat exchanger. In most areas an auxiliary heating system is required to provide comfort heating at all times. A conventional hot air heating system can be used in the same duct used for the solar system. Room thermostats in each system may be used to provide steady comfortable heat.
boiler bypass. When auxiliary heat is called for, the 2 threeway diverting valves cause the water to bypass the storage. It would be very inefficient to pump heated water through the storage tank. A system can be designed as two separate systems in parallel as in Figure A27(B). These separate systems can both be operated at the same time. With this design, the solar system can help the auxiliary system when the temperature of the storage water is below that which would be satisfactory for it to operate alone. Sensors are used in either system to tell the controller when to start and stop the pumps and when to control the diverting valves.
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COLLECTOR ARRAY
AUXILIARY BOILER
RETURN TO BOILER PUMP 2-POSITION, 3-WAY AUTOMATIC DIVERTING VALVE GATE VALVE
STRAINER PUMP
STORAGE TANK
(A)
SOLAR FIN TUBES AUXILIARY FIN TUBES
RETURN TO STORAGE
RETURN TO BOILER
AUXILIARY BOILER
(B)
Figure A27 (A) A liquid-to-liquid solar space-heating system. (B) Both solar and auxiliary heat can be used at the same time.
AUXILIARY BOILER
SOLAR STORAGE GATE VALVE PUMP 3-WAY AUTOMATIC STRAINER DIVERTING VALVE GATE VALVE
Figure A28 A solar space-heating radiant system. The radiant heating coils are normally embedded in a concrete floor.
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POLYBUTYLENE PIPE
Figure A29 A polybutylene pipe being installed in a concrete slab to be used in a solar radiant heating system.
and carpeting. A controller is installed with sensors at the collectors, the water storage, and outdoors. It is also connected to the room thermostat. The controller modulates the temperature of the water being circulated in the floor according to the outside temperature and the room temperature.
Figure A30. The heated collector water or antifreeze is pumped through the heat exchanger where it provides heat to the water in the tank. This tank must have conventional heating components also because the solar heating probably will not meet the demand at all times. If an antifreeze solution is used, the heat exchanger must have a double wall to prevent the toxic solution from mixing with the water used in the home or business, Figure A31. SAFETY PRECAUTION: Ethylene glycol may be used as an antifreeze if allowed by local or state codes. It is toxic and must be used with a double-wall heat exchanger. Propylene glycol is a food grade antifreeze and is recommended for use in a domestic hot water system. Many systems are designed to use a solar preheat or storage tank in conjunction with a conventional hot water tank. This gives additional solar-heated water to the system. Conventional heating (electric, gas, oil) will not have to be used as much with this extra storage, Figure A32. When a space-heating system is installed, it may include domestic hot water heating as well. This can be designed in several ways, Figure A25. The cold makeup water is passed through the heat exchanger in the storage tank. It absorbs whatever heat is available before entering the hot water tank, thus reducing the amount of heat that must be supplied by the conventional means.
CHECK VALVE
CONTROLLER
CHECK VALVE STRAINER GATE VALVE STORAGE WITH INTERNAL HEAT EXCHANGER COLD WATER MAKEUP
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Figure A31 The heat exchanger piping has a double wall when an antifreeze solution is used in the collectors in a domestic hot water system.
HOT WATER RETURN FROM COLLECTOR HOT WATER TRANSFER LINE TO WATER HEATER TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE HOT WATER SUPPLY TEMPERATURE MODULATING VALVE COLD WATER SUPPLY TO COLLECTOR CIRCULATION PUMP SOLAR PREHEAT TANK CONVENTIONAL DOMESTIC HOT WATER TANK
Figure A32 A solar preheat tank provides additional storage for a domestic hot water system.
These collectors may use one or two panels of glass. This glass may vary in quality and design, but a low-iron tempered glass is often used. The absorber plate is usually made of copper and formed tightly around the copper tubing and/or may consist of fins welded to the tubing. These assemblies are painted black, using a paint designed for this purpose, to absorb the maximum heat from the sun.
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ELECTRONIC CONTROL
120/240 V LINE
PUMP
THERMOMETER (OPTIONAL)
POOL
Figure A34 A swimming pool solar heating system. Courtesy Aquatherm Industries/Solar Industries
SUMMARY
Approximately 20% more heat is available in dry wood than in green wood. Wood smoke contains both polycyclic organic matter (POM) and nonpolycyclic organic matter, which are considered to be health hazards. EPA standards exist for both catalytic and noncatalytic stoves. Creosote, when hot, is a thick dark-brown liquid that forms into a residue like tar when it cools and often turns into a black, flaky substance inside the chimney or stovepipe. Stoves heat by both radiation and convection. Pellet stoves burn small, compressed pellets made from waste-wood products or agricultural waste products. Makeup air must be provided to replace air used in the combustion process. Gas stoves may be certified by ANSI as a decorative appliance or as a room heater. Gas stoves may be designed to use a B-vent or a direct-vent, or they may be vent-free. Fireplace inserts convert a fireplace into a more efficient heat source. Both wood-burning and gas-burning fireplace inserts are available. Liquid solar forced air space-heating systems may be the drain-down or closed-collector piping system type. Liquid solar space-heating systems may be combined with many types of conventional heating systems. Solar heating may be used to heat domestic hot water. Swimming pools may be heated with solar heating systems.
Figure A35 The solar collector for a swimming pool solar heating system. Courtesy Aquatherm Industries/Solar Industries
Figure A36 A cross-sectional view of a swimming pool solar collector. Courtesy Aquatherm Industries/Solar Industries