1

Food Focus

The Indian Spice Kitchen

by Julie Sahni
January 10, 2006
The adventurous, savvy American palate no longer limits Indian food to a bowl of curry. Professional chefs, home cooks and diners are discovering the culinary splendors of Indian cuisine, recognizing the difference between North and South Indian styles of cooking as well as variations from regions such as Kerala and Chettinad in the south, and Gujarat and Goa on the western coast. Classic recipes appearing in restaurants and specialty food stores include dosa (a South Indian thin, often stuffed, crpe made from a batter of rice, lentil flour and water), chat snacks and Matar Paneer (Indian fresh cheese and green peas in tomato sauce of cumin, coriander and cilantro). The underpinnings of Indian cuisine are spices, called masala. They are incorporated into dishes at every meal from breakfast to dinner, lacing tea, coffee, lemonades and yogurt drinks as well as meats, vegetables, pilafs, ice creams and candies. Spices give Indian food its characteristic flavor, texture and aroma. Judicious blending enhances rather than overwhelms the basic flavor and character of a dish. An Indian cooks pantry will always contain a fresh supply of green cardamom, chilies, cinnamon, clove, coriander, cumin, fennel, fenugreek, Kari leaves, nigella, mustard, saffron, tamarind and turmeric. These are used individually or as blends, also called masala. Garam masala, chat masala, chai masala and panch phoron are the four most popular and frequently used spice blends. Equally important, but used slightly less often, are ajowan, asafetida, amchoor, black cardamom and pomegranate seeds. Amchoor, a dried mango powder, and pomegranate seeds are used in dishes in place of lemon due to their sour taste. Dancing Mouths Consumers are exploring and educating themselves on a wider array of ethnic foods. A few years ago, the questions were general, such as the difference between cumin and coriander. Now people ask more specifics, such as the Portuguese influence on Indian cooking, notes Monica Bhide, author of Everything Indian. Most Indian food epicures credit creative European chefs working in the U.S. for broadening diners taste experiences. Ashok Bajaj, chef-owner of Bombay Club, an elite Washington, D.C.-based restaurant whose guest list includes former Presidents Bill Clinton, George Bush and Nelson Mandela, attributes the rising popularity of Indian cuisine to Chefs Gray Kunz and Jean-Georges Vongerichtens use of spices. They made them familiar and more acceptable to Americans, says Bajaj. Kunz was one of the first European chefs to cook with Indian spices in his former four-star restaurant Lespinasse in New York City. Vongerichtens Manhattan restaurant, Spice Market, serves Indian starters papadams and samosas laced with asafetida (garlic-flavored spice), cumin and chilies, representing the chefs philosophy of wanting people to leave with a mouth full of spices and pleasure. Other chefs have fueled interest in Indian foods by lightening the cuisine. For example, Maneet Chauhan, chef of Chicagos popular new Indian-Spanish restaurant Vermillion, uses reductions and jus instead of

2
traditional cream and butter. Notes Rohini Dey, owner and creator of the menu, We like vibrant, bold flavors in food, but dont want it to be heavy on the palate. Chauhan believes Americans are ready for her cardamom-, garam masala- and lentil-spiced food, such as the signature dish Mysore lamb chops, marinated in 16 spices and lentils before grilling. They feel a dance going on in their mouths, she says. Authenticity with Quality A growing Indian population in the U.S. has helped increase accessibility of the cuisine. Rajan Radhakrishnan, owner of Houstons Madras Pavilion, a restaurant specializing in South Indian food, believes the arrival of a sizable number of Indians to work in IT and other professional sectors has been an impetus for the availability of traditional dishes. These immigrants are from different regions and are young and highly educated with a fine palate, Radhakrishnan explains. They are fantastic consumers, demanding authenticity with quality. For most consumers, exposure to Indian spices may start abroad or in restaurants, but it is expanding into increasing sales at the retail level as more cookbooks, classes and television shows inspire them to recreate the recipes themselves. Sukh Bains, owner of Shalimar Indian Grocery in LouisvilleKy., has not only observed a rapid sales increase at his restaurant, Shalimar, but also at the retail operation. I opened the store to supply my restaurant needs, but now 95 percent of sales are from walk-in customers, says Bains. Shoppers try Indian food, then come to the grocery store with recipes to cook at home. Back in the 70s I packed tiny bags of spices and still it was difficult to sell them, remembers Arun Sinha, owner of Foods of India, one of New York Citys oldest Indian grocery shops, known for its spice selection as well as chutneys, pickles, sauces and ready-to-eat meals. Now my customers want a minimum of 4 to 8 ounces and come back in a few weeks for more. Charlie Sahadi, owner of Brooklyns Sahadis, a Middle Eastern grocer that has been in operation since 1948, believes the best way to sell spices is to demonstrate their use. The retailer started a prepared foods department in 1998 to introduce customers to the flavors the store carried and has since seen sales growth of 35 percent. We showed how cumin or garam masala taste in a dish and now spices are a hot item, says Sahadi. Suppliers are simplifying the Indian home-cooking process, too, with pre-measured blends and recipes. For instance, Posh Nosh Imports, Inc. offers Kitchen Guru Indian Spice Packets, ten blends to create authentic dishes such as Chicken Tikka Masala and Goan Style Pork. Brooklyns Arora Creations, meanwhile, offers organic savory spice blends for Northern Indian cuisine. Bringing Flavors Closer The need for convenience is growing a market of packaged meals, snacks and condiments for consumers wanting authentic Indian cuisine without preparing it by hand. Liberty Richter, Saddle Brook, N.J., for example, has rolled out its Kitchens of India line ofmicrowaveable vegetarian dishes. The products, which were created by chefs at Indian hotels, represent various regions and includes five varieties such as Dal Bukhara, black lentils simmered in rich tomato curry. Two years ago, Rachel Berliner, creator and co-owner of Amys Kitchen, in Santa Rosa, Calif., introduced an Indian line to her organic, vegetarian, home-style prepared-meal offerings. Selections include classics such as Mattar Paneer, Chana Masala (chickpeas in a caramelized onion sauce of cumin, ginger and mango powder) and Vegetable Korma (carrots, green peas, green beans in cardamom nut sauce). The line has become the top-selling packaged Indian food in mainstream supermarkets and natural foods outlets with more launches scheduled, notes Steve Warnert, director of sales and marketing. Our customers want the real flavor, the way Indians dine at home. So we begin with fresh ground spices and cook in small batches in kettles, explains Berliner, who has become as versed in Indian spices as a masalawala (spice seller) in old Delhi. Berliner prefers to stay away from strong flavors. We work with familiar spices and use small quantities.

3
Kaleidoscope of Snacks Indians love to snack and some of the most popular packaged products are snacks called namkeen. The snacks are made with various flours; ground lentil; nuts; spices such as ajowan, asafetida, black pepper, black salt and cumin; and dried fruits. They are available in a kaleidoscope of flavors and textures in brands like Deep, Swad and Haldiram. Ten years ago there were only two brands; now there are so many Ive stopped counting, says Sinha of Foods of India. They are popular with students and busy people, who use them as meals. People are looking for convenience-based food, adds Swetal Patel, vice president of sales for Raja Foods, Skokie, Ill., importer and distributor of Indian products and manufacturer of brands such as Swad, Patel and Patel Brothers. Our best sellers are shelf-stable, ready-to-eat products such as chutneys, sauces and prepared meals like Dal Makhani (creamed lentils with mild spices) and Palak Paneer (cheese and spinach in a tomato sauce with roasted cumin and fenugreek), which are microwaveable and all vegetarian. In 2006, the line will begin appearing in U.S. specialty food stores and supermarkets. Notes Patel, Not everybody makes a trip to Indian groceries so we are bringing these flavors closer to the consumer. Julie Sahni is the chef-proprietor of the Indian Cooking School in New York and author of Classic Indian Cooking. Her company, Spice Adventures, Inc., provides Indian food and spice consulting to corporations and leads culinary tours to India. Contact her at jsicooking@aol.com.

The Indian Spice Kitchen

Cooking with Spice The technique of incorporating spices into an Indian dish is paramount to achieving great flavor. The four governing rules of cooking with spices in Indian tradition are: form, treatment, timing and threshold.

Form: Whether the spice is fresh, dried, whole, ground, cracked or crushed, in a dry mix (like garam masala) or a wet pure (like curry paste) will influence the flavor of the dish.

Treatment: Whether the spice is dry toasted, coated with oil and roasted, fried in oil, smoked on fire, popped, simmered, steamed or steeped in vinegar over the stove or in the sun will each produce a different result.

Timing: When the spices are addedat the beginning of cooking, during, or at the endwill affect the flavor and texture of the dish. Also important is if they are added together, individually, or in succession.

Threshold: Understanding the level of spicing in a dish. Falling below that level will categorize the dish as bland, timid or lackluster; over-spicing could kill the dish, in addition to causing heartburn.

The Indian Spice Kitchen

The Indian Spice Pantry

AJOWAN SEEDS (Ajwain): Ajowan seeds come from the thymol plant, a close relative of caraway and cumin. Seeds resemble large celery seeds; have a sharp taste and, when crushed, smell strongly of thyme. Used to flavor breads, crackers, chickpea batter and papadams. ASAFETIDA (Hing): Resinous substance obtained from the rhizome and root of certain plants. Best known for its distinct odor, present in ground, raw form, but mellows when it is cooked. Used in small amounts, 14 - 12 teaspoon. CARDAMOM, BLACK (Badi Ilaichi): The pods of black cardamom are large, coarser, and somewhat stringy with large gray-black seeds. An important spice of North Indian spice blend garam masala, which is used in Moghul cooking. CARDAMOM, GREEN (Ilaichi): Used whole and ground in both savory and sweet dishes. To make ground cardamom, pods are peeled and seeds finely ground to a powder. Should be stored away from light as it bleaches easily. CHAI MASALA: In parts of India the chai (tea) is drunk laced with masala (spices). The tea spices, called chai masala, is a blend of baking spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, clove and ginger. It can be used to flavor flan, cheesecake, pot de crme, fruit compote, ice cream or chocolates. CHAT MASALA: Popular appetizers bhel-poori, papri-chat, chicken-chat and paani-poori are collectively known as chat. Used for flavoring, chat masala is a blend of highly aromatic and appetite-stimulating spices such as roasted cumin, asafetida, mango powder, mint and black salt. (Black salt is not a table salt but a sulfur compound.) CHILI, DRIED RED AND FRESH GREEN (Lal Mirch): Gives food a hot taste. Dried chili pods are added to hot oil and fried until they turn black and smoke. This smoky-hot oil is an important flavoring in Indian cooking. Green chilies add an herbal aroma as well as heat to a dish. CORIANDER, SEEDS & LEAVES (Dhania): Yellowish brown and about the size of peppercorns; mild and floral aroma. Used in countless Indian recipes. Ground coriander seeds are the main spice in curry powder. Fresh coriander, also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley, has a pungent aroma quite unlike the seeds of the plant. It is used as a green and an herb. CUMIN (Jeera): Warm, earthy and pungent spice; used both whole and ground. One of the most important spices in North Indian cooking; an ingredient in the spice blend garam masala and Eastern spice blend panch phoron. Often roasted before use to intensify flavor. Black cumin seeds are lesser known but more earthy scented, similar to truffles, and are used in delicate pilafs, salads and confections. FENUGREEK (Methi): Both the leaves and the seeds are used in Indian cooking. They have different flavors and aroma, hence are not interchangeable. The tiny, brown, bitter-tasting seeds, when roasted or fried, impart a maple syrup-like aroma. Seeds and leaves, either fresh or dried, are used in stews, soups, vegetables, sauces, chutney and pancakes. GARAM MASALA: A blend of sweet and savory spices, roasted and ground to a brown-colored powder. It includes cumin, coriander, black peppercorns, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Popular in Moghul and North Indian cooking. Use the spice blend as a rub over lamb and pork chops, steak and

roast or to flavor soup and braised vegetables. KARI LEAVES (Kari Patta): Kari leaf is an herb, not a spice. It should not be confused with curry powder, a blend of several spices. Kari leaves have a captivating balmy aroma, reminiscent of juniper berries and lime. One of the primary flavorings of South Indian and Southeast Asia cooking. Fresh kari leaves are available in Indian grocery stores. MANGO POWDER (Amchoor): A pale gray-beige powder produced by grinding dried slices of unripe mangoes. Has a distinct floral aroma and tart taste. Used as a souring agent and a tenderizer with chickpeas, root vegetables and meat. MUSTARD SEEDS, BROWN (Rai): Tiny round brown, black or red seeds that look like large poppy seeds. Added to hot oil and fried until they pop to release their fragrance. This mustard-infused oil, a primary step in the making of almost all dishes, is the predominant flavor in Indian cooking. NIGELLA: Similar to black onion or caraway. Widely used in Indian cuisines, particularly in mildly braised lamb dishes such as korma. It is also added to vegetable and dhal dishes as well as in chutneys. The seeds are sprinkled on to naan bread before baking. Nigella is an ingredient of some garam masalas and is one of the five spices in panch phoran. PANCH PHORON: In the Eastern regions of India, mainly Bengal, five aromatic seeds are combined to produce this blend: cumin, brown mustard, fenugreek, fennel and nigella. The spices are added to hot oil to bloom them. Use the spice-infused oil as a base for cooking and flavoring. Lightly crushed panch phoron makes a wonderful spice rub for fish and seafood. TAMARIND (Imli): The fruits of the tamarind tree, native to India, bear seedpods containing dark brown seeds surrounded by an acidic pulp that is used as a souring agent in many recipes. Sweet tamarind chutney is one of the cuisines most popular dipping sauces. TURMERIC (Haldi): This brilliant spice colors everything it touches yellow. One of the main ingredients of curry powder, the primary flavor of South Indian cooking. Used in moderation, turmeric imparts a woody scent and lemon color to legumes, rice and vegetables.

The Indian Spice Kitchen

The Spice Bond For most Indian cooks the bond with spices begins early with the enhancement of sensory perceptions. An Indian infant, just days old, is massaged with fresh turmeric paste to help develop smooth skin. Virgin mustard oil is rubbed on the scalp to promote lustrous hair growth; tamarind juice to impart coolness to the body; clove oil rubbed on gums to help alleviate teething pains; and ajowan or cumin infusion to cut colic pain. The first solid food offered to an Indian infant is, in fact, rice pudding flavored with cardamom.