Mary Langridge Professor Avila DES 143 7 March 2012 (Research Paper) Late 19th century and 21st

century stockings: Showgirls Then and Now! Nowadays, it might seem strange to think that stockings had beginnings as a male dominated clothing item. Stockings as a garment are now so connected with modern societies ideas of femininity that it is hard to disassociate the two. In fact, at one point in history, most likely from the 14th to late 16th centuries, it was unheard of to even speak of womens undergarments. Stockings and the legs of women was an unmentionable subject (Grass 97). Because of this, there is little evidence that women wore them before the 18th century. It is assumed through some literature and rare art, in the form of servant and boudoir depictions that they wore them much earlier. In one scenario in the early 17th century, the Queen of Spain was given a gift of machine knit stockings but the Spanish Ambassador refused them. It was rumored that he replied to the messenger by saying, take back thy Stockings. . .and know, foolish sir that the Queen of Spain hath no legs (98). As a society, we have come a long way from the modesty of earlier times. Our culture has even adopted the trend of underwear as outerwear. Each season this trend is pushed further and further to the point where we find it socially acceptable and encouraged to test the limits to see what we can get away with. In the 21st century one would not even think to flinch at the sight of an exposed bra strap but the sight of an over Langridge 2

the knee or thigh high stocking still gets some type of reaction. Female entertainers or showgirls of the late 19th century knew this and used it to their advantage. For example, the can-can dancers at the Moulin Rouge club knew that a flash of their black stockings under their petticoat would excite the crowd. This provocative dance style was the 19th century version of testing the limits of underwear as outerwear. In the 21st century, female celebrities and entertainers come in all forms. These are the people that break the rules and set new trends. This broad group of celebrities, bloggers, T.V. personalities, models, designers, and performers can all be classified as modern showgirls. Examining and comparing fully-fashioned stockings from the 19th century to the 21st century will help others to understand the underwear as outerwear trend and the effect it has on popular culture and the fashion industry. Since most women in the 19th century were held under societies standards of modesty some of the most important observation sources are paintings and photographs of dancers, prostitutes, and entertainers of the time. The bohemian art movement and attitudes of the late 19th century in Paris, nurtured great post impressionist artists like Henri Toulouse-Lautrec and Vincent Van Gogh. Henri Toulouse-Lautrec was especially important for purposes of the topic of under garments. He centered his life on the lively spirit of the Moulin Rouge. He was drawn to things that were considered taboo, as most of his subjects were dancers and prostitutes at the Moulin Rouge. Although they are highly stylized, his paintings are a valid source because he strived to paint reality not ideals. I this quote he exclaims, I paint things as they are. I don't comment. I record (quote.robertgenn.com). Langridge 3

Fig. 1 is a painting by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec from 1882. The painting is of a nude but one can clearly see a pair of black thigh high stockings. The stockings appear to be fastened at the thigh with either a ribbon style tie garter or a garter belt. Stockings in the late 19th century were commonly knit from wool either by hand or from a full fashioned kitting machine in a hosiery mill (Grass 203). It was also possible that they could have contained some type of wool cotton blend or silk. In the United States from around 1860 to 1900 stocking fibers changed from wool and wool mixtures to cotton (218) . . . and from 1875 to 1900 full-fashioned silk hosiery was starting to be produced in small percentages (222). This may not have applied to France but that is what was happening in the United States around the same time. The woman depicted in fig. 2 is shown pulling up her stockings. She appears to be wearing a pair of stockings that are very similar in style to the woman in fig. 1. In this painting from 1894 the woman is definitely wearing a tie-style garter to keep her stockings from falling down. The color contrast of the violet ribbon garter with the black stockings could have been a way to show individuality or adorn the stockings. It also could have been an artistic interpretation to make the garter more visible to the viewer. The third painting by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec (fig. 3) depicts various women in the Salon of the Moulin Rogue, also painted in 1894. The woman that stands out is wearing a powder blue dress and black stockings. It is unclear how they are attached but you can see her skin peek through from the bottom of her left thigh. An educated guess would determine that she is probably wearing some type of suspenders to that clip onto the stockings. She could also be wearing a black garter or no garter at all. In the right Langridge 4

hand corner you can see a sliver of a womans leg. The woman in the corner has her skirt lifted and is wearing black stockings with yellow tie garters. Because of the various states of undress and the location I would assume that these women were prostitutes. This is not how the average woman would carry herself or dress but the undergarments are probably similar to what an everyday woman wore under her clothing. One way to verify that Henri Toulouse-Lautrecs paintings are accurate for documenting costume history would be to compare his paintings to actual photographs of women of the same time period with similar careers. The photograph in fig. 4 is of Louise Weber known as La Goulue (the glutton). She was a famous can-can dancer and a muse of Henri Toulouse-Lautrec. She was often the subject of his paintings and was known for her flamboyant style. In the photograph by Louis Victor Paul Bacard she is wearing more ornamented stockings than those painted by Henri Toulouse-Lautrec. Her stockings may be attached with suspenders. She is wearing a fancy costume so that could be the reason for a more detailed stocking. Fig. 5 is a postcard of a French prostitute. She is wearing black stockings with visible garter belt straps. It is interesting that she is also wearing ribbon garters under the knee. I am not sure of the reason for this but it could be for a more secure fit or merely a decorative trend. The postcard photo in fig. 6 is of dancer, Little Egypt from 1900. Little Egypt was a hootchy kootchy dancer that performed at the 15th World Fair in the United States. Her dance style would be similar to a burlesque version of belly dancing. She is wearing black stockings fastened with a light colored ribbon tie. The stockings in this photo match up the best with Henri Toulouse-Lautrecs paintings in style and have a Langridge 5

similar tie garter. The following pictures seem to be accurate portrayals of undergarments worn by women in the late 19th century. Unlike women in the 19th century, women in the 21st century have access to many different types of hosiery. Most women choose to go without stockings but there are still some women, mainly in subcultures that choose to wear them. People in fetish, pin-up, and alternative communities embrace fully-fashioned stockings. Subcultures have always influenced the fashion industry. What may have once been considered risqu can become the norm. For the past thirty year, the playful use of fetishistic themes has been increasingly assimilated into fashion (Steele 33). The underwear as outerwear theme is a constant example of this idea. The influence of these subculture styles and the emergence of the feminist pinup changes what stockings symbolize to our culture. They may have once been over sexualized but they are slowly becoming symbols of power. Fig. 7 is of actress, comedian, writer, and producer Tina Fey. She is dressed in pinup style with sheer black fishnet stockings. Her clothing may be brief but she has never had to rely on her image to get ahead in her career. Shes mocking the stereotypical air-head glamour pin-up. At the same time she is empowering herself by creating her own feminine sexual identity. This photograph says that it is okay to be seen as a sexy and intelligent. Being feminine doesnt have to be degrading and beauty can be unconventional. Fig. 8 is of Johanna Ost, Artist, Fashion Blogger, and 18th century Historian. She is wearing sheer black nylon stockings in the style of a 1950s pin-up. Her stockings are held up by garter belts in the same way that the woman in fig. 5 is wearing hers. The Langridge 6 main difference between the stockings worn in fig. 8 and fig. 5 is the difference in

material. Due to the discovery of synthetics, nylon stockings were made possible and debuted around 1940. They have continued to improve over time. Nylon keeps its shape longer and allows for a sheerer look. Fig. 9 is from winter 2009/2010 and it displays identical stockings to those worn by Johanna Ost in fig. 8. Fig. 9 is from one of John Gallianos Haute Couture shows. The models in the picture clearly display characteristics of undergarments as outerwear. The mix of lingerie undergarments juxtaposed against 1940s style suiting breathes new life into the same old shapes. This is a way that stockings can change the meanings of an outfit. You could almost imagine some of the showgirls of the Moulin Rouge feeling at home in these exaggerated and quirky garments. Stockings are becoming fashionable again in daily attire. Fig. 10 is moving more towards what is happening right now. Suspender tights are a big trend of this season. They offer the sexy look of stockings and garters but they are actually tights. It gives wearers the option of getting the look of stockings without the commitment. They combine innocence with the fetish aspect of stockings and are available at trendy stores like Asos or Topshop. Contemporary celebrities like Miley Cyrus, Paris Hilton, Rihanna and Selena Gomez wear them to add an edge to their outfit. This take on a classic style is whimsical and creative for 2012. Elsa Billgren is a Swedish Fashion Blogger for Elle magazine. She is pictured in fig. 11. Her style is very vintage pin-up. She is known for her vintage style. In the photo on the left Elsa Billgren is wearing stockings very similar to the stockings shown in figs. Langridge 7 1-6. They are more opaque and appear to be some type of knit. There is no band at the top like the stockings in fig. 8 and 9. She is an important role model and modern feminist pin-

up because she shows that a woman can be unapologetically stylish even if they do not fit into the boxes that society creates. She has her own sense of style and is confident even though she is not a sample size. The photo of her on the right continues on with the suspender tights trend except with out the garter element. Her statement tights make her appear as if she is wearing scalloped thigh high stockings. Lastly, this photo of pop star, Rihanna in fig. 12 shows how she is able to reinterpret stockings into casual wear. Her ripped thigh high stockings give off a punk vibe. The casual denim bustier and skirt by Jeremy Scott keeps her look girly and youthful. I predict this is the direction that thigh high stockings are going to go in. They are going to be paired with casual street wear like denim skirts or shorts. This really shows how stockings can be combined in different ways to create new meanings and style interpretations. Stockings went from being unseen and unmentionable to an in-your-face style statement. The stockings of the late 19th century worn by stage girls are still a style staple after 100 years. The difference is that people of today choose whether or not they want to wear them or not. There are so many clothing options available in the 21st century but symbols from the past still influence how we wear things today. In the same way that the envelope shaped button on our cell phones symbolizes that we have a message, the new suspender tights give a nod to the original function of this style from the past. There are

Langridge 8 differences in the manufacturing process, materials and meaning but stockings of the 21st century are worn in almost the same way as those of the 19th century were.

Langridge 9 Works Cited Buszek, Maria E. Pin-up Grrrls: Feminism, Sexuality, Popular Culture. Durham: Duke

University Press, 2006. Print. Deutch, Yvonne. A Glimpse of Stocking or Something Shocking: A Short History of Tights. London: Michael O'Mara, 2002. Print. Grass, Milton N. History of Hosiery: From the Piloi of Ancient Greece to the Nylons of Modern America. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1956. Print. Hawthorne, Rosemary. Stockings & Suspenders: A Quick Flash. London: Souvenir, 1993. Print. Steele, Valerie. Fetish: Fashion, Sex, and Power. New York: Oxford University Press, 1996. Print. Image Sources: Bacard, Louis Victor Paul. La Goulue. 1885. Photograph. France. 4 March. 2012. <http://www.flickr.com/photos/gonzalez-alba/6464815655> Buszeck, Maria E. Pinup-Grrrls: Feminism, Sexuality, Popular Culture. (Little Egypt) Durham: Duke University Press, 2006. 73. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec Art Quotes. Website. 3 March 2012. <http://quote.robertgenn.com/auth_search.php?authid=1993> Elsa Billgren. 2011/2012. Photograph. 26 February 2012. <www.elsa.elle.se> Johanna Ost. 2007. Photograph. 25 February 2012. < http://www.flickr.com/photos/johanni/1843737060/in/set72157602908002341)> John Galliano. 2009/2010. Photograph. 25 February 2012. <www.zimbio.com>

Rihanna. 2011. Photograph. 1 March 2012. < http://www.justjared.com/2011/09/27/rihanna-we-found-love-in-belfast> Suspender Tights Trend. 2012. Photograph. 28 February 2012. < www.celebuzz.com/2012-02-08/miley-cyrus-among-celebs-to-sport-sexysuspender-tights-photos> Tina Fey. Photograph. 2004. Bust Magazine. 20 February 2012. <www.bust.com> Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri. In the Salon at the Rue des Moulins.1894. Oil on Canvas. Lautrec. Albi, France. 1 March. 2012. <www.kingsacademy.com/mhodges/11_WesternArt/25_Post Impressionism/25_Post-Impressionism.htm> Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri. Study of a Nude. 1882. Oil on Canvas. Muse ToulouseLautrec. Albi, France. 1 March. 2012. < www.abcgallery.com/T/toulouse-lautrec/toulouse-lautrec131.html> Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri. Woman Pulling up her Stocking. 1894. Oil on Cardboard. Muse d'Orsay, Paris, France. 2 March. 2012. < http://www.artsunlight.com> Vintage French Postcard, Lady of the Night. Photograph. 19th century. France.1 March. 2012. <http://www.flickr.com/photos/7388762@N03/6682223421/in/set72157627962476923>

(fig. 1) Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Etude de nu / Study of a Nude (1882) Oil on canvas. 55 x 46 cm. Muse Toulouse-Lautrec, Albi, France www.abcgallery.com/T/toulouse-lautrec/toulouse-lautrec131.html

(fig. 2) Woman Pulling up her Stocking (1894) Oil on cardboard, 58 x 48 cm; Muse d'Orsay, Paris, France http://www.artsunlight.com

(fig. 3) Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, In the Salon at the Rue des Moulins (c. 1894) oil on canvas Albi, Muse Toulouse-Lautrec www.kingsacademy.com/mhodges/11_Western-Art/25_Post Impressionism/25_PostImpressionism.htm

(fig. 4) Louise Weber "La Goulue" (the glutton) by Louis Victor Paul Bacard, 1885 http://www.flickr.com/photos/gonzalez -alba/6464815655/

(fig. 5) Vintage French Postcard, Lady of the Night 19th century http://www.flickr.com/photos/7388762 @N03/6682223421/in/set-7215762796 2476923

(fig. 6) Little Egypt Postcard, ca 1900, Photographer unknown, touring dancer. Buszeck, Maria E. Pinup-Grrrls: Feminism, Sexuality, Popular Culture. Durham: Duke University Press, 2006. 73.

(fig. 7) Comedian Tina Fey in Bust Magazine (2004) www.bust.com

(fig. 8) Johanna Ost, (Artist & Fashion Blogger), 2007, Sweden (http://www.flickr.com/photos/johanni/1843737060/in/set-72157602908002341)

(fig. 9) Christian Dior Haute Couture A/W 2009/2010 Collection by John Galliano Paris, France. (http://www.zimbio.com)

(fig. 10) Feb. 2012 Suspender tights trend (from left: Miley Cyrus, Paris Hilton, Rihanna, Selena Gomez) www.celebuzz.com/2012-02-08/miley-cyrus-among-celebs-to-sport-sexy-suspender-tightsphotos/

(fig. 11) Elsa Billgren, Swedish Fashion Blogger for Elle Magazine (2011/2012) www.elsa.elle.se

(fig. 12) Rihanna (Pop Superstar), wearing Jeremy Scott with black stockings and garters for her video We Found Love (Oct. 2011) Bellfast, Northern Ireland http://www.justjared.com/2011/09/27/rihanna-we-found-love-in-belfast